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WOVEN FABRICS DEFECTS -APPROACH BY MEANS OF ACCESSIBLE OPEN

SOURCE, USED AS E-LEARNING TOOL FOR STUDENTS

Conference Paper · April 2015

DOI: 10.12753/2066-026X-15-269

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 The 11th International Scientific Conference
eLearning and Software for Education
Bucharest, April 23-24, 2015
10.12753/2066-026X-15-269

WOVEN FABRICS DEFECTS - APPROACH BY MEANS OF ACCESSIBLE OPEN

SOURCE, USED AS E-LEARNING TOOL FOR STUDENTS

Rodica HARPA
“Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University, Faculty of Textiles, Leather and Industrial Management,
29 , D.Mangeron Blvd., Iasi, Romania
rodica_harpa@yahoo.com

Abstract: This paper deals with Cotton Incorporated's website that, among other facilities for the global
textile community, includes the Technical Assistance & Training part. This consists of Textile
Encyclopedia, Cotton Fiber Technical Guide, Engineered Knitting Program, Technical Bulletins, and
Standard Fabric Defect Glossary. The chapter entitled Standard Fabric Defect Glossary addresses a
complex and instructive approach of woven fabrics defects topic and can be accessed by students as e-
learning tool. In both, course and laboratory activities for Quality Assurance in Weaving Mill, from the
curriculum delivered at the Faculty of Textile, Leather and Industrial Management from Iasi, for
Bachelor students (4th year of study), woven fabrics defects topic is approached from several points of
view. Concretely, fabric defects are identified first as a defining element in terms of fabric compliance
with customer requirements for a particular end use. Fabric defects are presented also as a woven
defining quality parameter depends on how are made a part of the supply chain (from spinning to
weaving). In terms of sources, that can cause defects in fabric, students learn about SR ISO 8498:1996,
which is the Romanian referential for classification and description of woven’ defects, in general,
without regard to the particular technology of weaving and finishing. After that, they are trying to make
connections with particular weaving technology and finishing. Finally, for teaching in our laboratory,
students have available database with fabric defects, generated through a national project and then
continuously upgraded. In addition, students access online the Cotton Incorporated's website and use
Standard Fabric Defect Glossary as a valuable interactive e-learning tool.

Keywords: Woven fabrics; Fabric defects; E-Learning tool; Cotton Incorporated website; Quality
assurance; End use.

I. INTRODUCTION

The textile supply chain is very complex and textile products delivered to customers must
meet their requirements, requirements almost always correlated with product end designation.
Moreover, customer feedback is recognized as an element of self-regulation, including processes in
textile processing. In context, aside from the defining features of textile products (woven; knit), there
will be always requirements for optional features linked to end use and, requirements related to fabric
defects allowed by the customer at delivery. Fabrics defects may be due to factors difficult to identify
because whether it is, woven or knit, defects can be generated due to raw material, due to successive
technological processing, and due to subsequent finishing operations [1- 3 ]. It is important to note
that, the quality assurance in weaving mill, is a complex strategy which includes quality control
(offline and / or online); regardless of strategy, the control of fabrics defects is mandatory [1, 2, 4].
Aware of the importance of the defects (generated and identified throughout textile supply chain),
exists a constant concern from textile specialists to find alternative solutions for machines (in
mechanical engineering) and to improve technical solutions for the optimal monitoring (real time / in
time), [5-12]. Regarding the implementation of the control activities on fabrics defects, weavers have
created their own systems, based on the grouping of defects according to the international reference
standard, which comprises classification and description of woven’s defects wide-ranging, without
regard to the particular technology of weaving and finishing, [13].
However, it should be noted that, most of weavers apply the grouping and classification of
defects according to the standard only partially, always preferring a more simple classification,
correlated with weaving particularities and with fabric features for specific customers.
In both, course and laboratory activities for Quality Assurance in Weaving Mill, from the
curriculum delivered at the Faculty of Textile, Leather and Industrial Management from Iasi for
Bachelor students (4th year of study), woven fabrics defects topic is approached from several points of
view and always starting with standard.
For laboratory activities, according to the educational objectives, several e-learning tools from
open sources are included, depending on the specific topic [14]. This paper deals with Cotton
Incorporated's website as a valuable interactive e-learning tool, accessed online by students for
learning [15].

II. COTTON INCORPORATED'S WEBSITE - ACCESSIBLE OPEN SOURCE FOR

EDUCATION AND TRAINING
2.1 Cotton Incorporated’s website main topics
Cotton Incorporated is an organization recognized worldwide, funded by cotton growers in the
United States of America since 1960. With motto “Making cotton ‘the fabric of our lives', the main
task of Cotton Inc. was and still is, to increase cotton market in the world mainly by means of research
[15].
The website of Cotton Incorporated has a multifaceted structure but with a friendly interface,
allowing students to get the latest achievements and knowledge, delivered by the main researcher and
promoter of the cotton market. An overview of the Cotton Incorporated's website, allows selecting the
main modules from the menu (figure 1), each one being divided into several topics (figure 2).

Figure 1. Screenshot: main menu, website http://www.cottoninc.com

The toolbar with quick launch buttons from the main menu (figure 2) are: CORPORATE
(figure 2.a), FIBER (figure 2.b), PRODUCT (figure 2.c), CONSUMER (figure 2.d) and
SUSTAINABILITY (figure 2.e). In this manner, Cotton Incorporated informs the world of textiles
about the overall policy of organization and about the main topics of activity.

2. a. Main module CORPORATE

 2. b. Main module FIBER

2. c. Main module PRODUCT

2. d. Main module CONSUMER

2. e. Main module SUSTAINABILITY

Figure 2. Screenshot: main module and quick launch toolbar (2.a-2.e)
2.2 Cotton Incorporated’s website for education and training
Considering the Cotton Incorporated's website usefulness for teaching and learning, the most
important topic for students is PRODUCT (figure 2.c), because includes several themes as submenu,
named as follow: Product Technology, Nonwovens, Technical Assistance and Training, Fabrics and
Textile Research. Each of this allows getting technical information in an unrolling menu.
The Technical Assistance & Training submenu consists of nine tabs, as options: Textile
Encyclopedia, Textile glossary, Standard Fabric Defect Glossary, Fabric Defect Classification,
Importer support workshop, Technical bulletins, Cotton University, Textile Basics Online Courses and
Engineered Cotton Knits Guidelines; some of them are shown in the figure 3.
 3. a. Screenshot: Textile encyclopedia option

3.
b.
Scr
een
sho
t:
Tex

tile Glossary option

3. c. Screenshot: Standard Fabric Defect Glossary option

3. d .Screenshot: Fabric Defects Classification option

3. e .Screenshot: Textile Basics Online Courses option

Figure 3. Screenshot: main tabs of the Technical Assistance & Training submenu (3.a-3.e)
 2.3 Standard Fabric Defect Glossary from www.cottoninc.com
Figure 3.c shows Standard Fabric Defect Glossary option, which allows students to get the
details about defects. Depending on the tab selected when searching, they have the possibility to
access the defects grouped as following: Fabric type, Defect type, View by Name, View by Number,
and View by Keyword.
For the Fabric Type searching (figure 4), is accessed first a list with available fabric types with
defects included in database of Standard Fabric Defect Glossary (figure 4.a). The next step is the
choosing of specific fabric type and visualization of all defects available for it (figure 4.b). For
instance, in screenshot from figure 4.a was selected as fabric type the Denim Bottom Weights – Indigo
Dyed; as result, the figure 4.b shows 16 defects available in database.

4. a. Fabric Type search: available fabrics with defects in database

4. b. Fabric Type search: defects for selected fabric

Figure 4. Screenshot: Standard Fabric Defect Glossary option, Fabric Type (4.a; 4.b)
For the Defect Type searching (figure 5), is accessed first a list with available defects included
in database of Standard Fabric Defect Glossary (figure 5.a). The next step is the choosing of specific
defect type and visualization of all defects available for it (figure 5.b). For instance, in screenshot from
figure 5.a, warp lines / vertical lines was selected as defect type; as result, the figure 5.b shows a
number of 64 defects available in database, including Buttonhole Selvage identified in figure 4.b.
 5. a. Defect Type search: available types of defects in database

5. b. Defect Type search: defects for selected type

Figure 5. Screenshot: Standard Fabric Defect Glossary option, Defect Type (5.a; 5.b)
For the View by Name searching (figure 6), is open a window with all thumbnails for a full
amount of 195 defects available by name in database of Standard Fabric Defect Glossary , presented
in alphabetically order.

Figure 6. Screenshot: Standard Fabric Defect Glossary option, View by Name

For the View by Number searching (figure 7), is open a window with all thumbnails also for
the full amount of 195 defects available by number in database of Standard Fabric Defect
Glossary, presented in numerically orde.
 Figure 7. Screenshot: Standard Fabric Defect Glossary option, View by Number
For the View by Keyword searching (figure 8), is necessary to use the search tab; after typing
the keyword, an open window shows all defects available for the specific keyword in database of
Standard Fabric Defect Glossary (figure 8.a).
8. a. View by Keyword search: result for defect number as keyword
For example, the keyword was the number “0118” and the defect with this code appeared in
window. Next, the icon becomes a quick launch button and another window with full details about the
defect, is open (figure 8.b).

8. b. View by Keyword search: details for defect number as keyword

Figure 8. Screenshot Standard Fabric Defect Glossary option, View by Keyword (8.a; 8.b)

III. DISCUSSIONS
Cotton Incorporated' website is helpful for students, including the possibility of making a
comparison between two classifications of fabric defects. The first classification is the result of a
standardized methodology for grouping the defects of woven fabrics. The second classification is the
result of original concept of a main organization with impact on the textile market, the classification
being as well a practical solution for grouping defects. The latter is actually a dissemination of their
research about the defects generated frequently, in woven fabrics and knits.
 Specifically, considering the defect type category, the standard [13] divided woven fabrics
defects in six groups: yarn defects in a woven fabric; defects in the warp direction; defects in the weft
direction; defects due to/after dyeing, printing or finishing; defects of/ associated with the selvedges
and general defects.
Compared, Standard Fabric Defect Glossary accomplished by Cotton Inc., also has divided
the woven fabrics defects in six groups, but with some dissimilarities beside the referential: warp
lines-vertical lines; weft lines-horizontal lines; isolated defects; pattern defects; finishing defects and
printing defects.
Therefore, this paper presented a case study of dissimilar classification of defects by type, very
constructive to students.

IV. CONCLUSIONS
According to the curriculum delivered at the Faculty of Textile, Leather and Industrial
Management from Iasi, for Bachelor students (4th year of study), the laboratory activities for Quality
Assurance in Weaving Mill, addresses the topic of woven fabrics defects, that is identified as a
defining feature in terms of compliance with the customer requirements, for a particular end use of
fabric.
After learning about the standard for classification and description of the woven defects,
students are working with collections of fabric samples containing defects, available in laboratory.
Next, the students access online the Cotton Incorporated's website, and may use the Standard Fabric
Defect Glossary, as a valuable interactive e-learning tool.

Reference Text and Citations

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[15] http://www.cottoninc.com

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