WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESSES

INTRODUCTION TO WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESSES:

Yarn is the basic building block in weaving. Therefore, after yarn manufacturing, the next step
would be to weave the yarn into a fabric but the condition of yarn produced on the spinning
machine is not always good enough to be used directly for fabric formation. It has to go under
certain weaving preparatory processes. The yarn is subjected to different kinds of stresses during
weaving. However, ring spun yarns need to go through a winding process for several reasons.
Winding is basically transferring a yarn from one type of package to another. Winding produces
a yarn package that is suitable for further processing. Knotting has been replaced by splicing in
modern winding machines. The winding process provides an opportunity to clear yarn defects.
Thick and thin places, slubs, neps or loose fibers on the yarn are cleared during winding.
Modern weaving machines have placed increased demand on warp preparation due to faster
weaving speeds and the use of insertion devices other than the shuttle. Warp yarn must have
uniform properties with sufficient strength to withstand stress and frictional abrasion during
weaving.
Although the quality and characteristics of the warp yarns coming out of the winding and
warping processes are quite good, they are still not good enough for the weaving process for
most of the yarns. The weaving process requires the warp yarn to be strong, smooth and elastic
or extensible to a certain degree. To achieve these properties on the warp yarns, a protective
coating of a polymeric film forming agent (size) is applied to the warp yarns prior to weaving.
This process is called slashing or sizing.
After slashing, the sized warp beam is prepared to be placed on the weaving machine. Drawing-
in is the entering of yarns from a new warp into the weaving elements of a weaving machine,
namely drop wires, heddles and reed when starting up a new fabric style.

Figure 1. Yarn preparation steps for weaving.

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WINDING:
Winding is the process of transferring yarns from ring, bobbin, hank etc. into a suitable package.
This makes using the yarn on subsequent machines both easier n more economical.
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TYPES OF WINDING:
There are two types of winding.
1: Random winding: In this type of winding the coils per double traverse decrease from start to
finish of the package. It is most common and suitable for most staple spun yarn, but is unsuitable
for continuous filament or delicate staple- spun yarns as the friction contact, especially at high
speeds, causes yarn. The yarn package is driven by contact with a driving drum, which may be
metal or plastic. KTSC
2: Precision winding: In this type of winding the number of coils per double traverse at the
beginning of winding the cone is equal to the number of coils per double traverse at the finish.

OBJECTIVES OF WINDING PROCESS:

1: Formation of suitable package for warping.
2: Checking and clearing the yarn from spinning defects.
3: To remove spinning faults.
4: To improve the quality of yarn.
TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR WINDING PROCESS:
1: The physical mechanical properties of the yarn should not be impaired.
2: Package should be built to ensure easy running off during warping at high speed.
3: The package should contain maximum length of yarn.
4: The yarn ends should be tied with strong knots of correct structure easily passing out at
subsequent processing.
5: The process should remove the objectionable fault yarn wastes must be as small as possible.
6: The yarn tension should be regular and ensure constant winding condition.

WARPING:
The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cone, cheese) on to a common
package (warp beam) is called warping.

OPERATIONS OF WARPING:
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1: Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads, warp composed of any number of threads
with desired length.
2: Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads, of a warp composed of any number of
threads with the desired length.
3: Arrangement of above- mentioned threads according to the desired sequence.
4: Manufacturing of a warp beam with said characteristics.
OBJECTIVES OF WARPING:
To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that they can be collect on a
single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can be used for sizing or next process.
WARPING PROCESS INVOLVES:

IMPORTANCE OF WARPING:
1: Construction of a beam of warp yarn.
2: Construction of a parallel yarn sheet.
3: Modifying the faults of yarn like thick or thin place.
4: Winding the pre- determined length of yarn.
5: Combination of small packages.
6: Acceleration the next process.
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IMPORTANT REQUIREMENTS OF WARPING:

1: The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the time of
with drawl from the supply package.
2: Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.
3: The tension should be moderate to allow the yarn complete retain its elastic properties.
4: Predetermined length should be observed.
5: Production rate should be high as possible.
6: The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.
Sizing is
termed as
SIZING PROCESS: “Heart of
weaving"
ABSTRACT:
Sizing is the process of giving a protective coating to warp yarns in order to minimize yarn
breakages during weaving process. The effect of sizing mixtures on the slubby portions of a
staple yarn was determined directly by the application of size to the cotton roving and
subsequently testing of roving for strength, stiffness and ultimate elongation
OBJECTIVES OF SIZING:
The primary purpose of sizing is to produce warp yarns that will weave satisfactorily without
suffering from any consequential damage due to abrasion with the moving part of the loom.
 To impart special properties to the fabric such as ( weight, feel, softness, and handle)
 To prevent war ,
 To prevent warp yarns from excessive breakage under such weaving conditions
 The purpose of sizing is to increase the strength and abrasion resistance
 To retain elasticity and retaining extensibility to some extent.
 To maintain the flexing behavior.

FUNCTION OF SIZING:
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1. To lay in the producing fibers in the body of the yarn cover the week places by in
encapsulating the yarn by the protective coating of the size film. The thickness of the size
film coating should be optimized. Too thick a coating will be susceptible to easy size
shed off on the loom.
2. To increase the strength of the spun yarn without affecting its extensibility. This is
achieved by allowing the penetration of the size into the yarn. The size in the yarn matrix
will tend to find all the fibers together the increase in the strength is due to sizing is
normally expected to be about 10 to 15% with respect to the strength of the unsized yarn.

SIZING MACHINE:
The essential components of a sizing machine to splash spun yarns may be characterized as
follow;
 Zone 1: Creels -unwinding zone
 Zone 2: Size boxes -Sizing zone
 Zone 3: Drying Cylinders -Drying zone
 Zone 4: Bust rods -Splitting zone
 Zone 5: Head Stock -Weaver's beam preparation zone
 Zone 6: Control and Instrumentations

High
warp
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quality when sizing: A modern operation must be uninterrupted assuring high efficiency is
irreproachable quality and low-cost production. The foremost goal of the sizing Department is
therefore the production of top-quality warps. The principle sizing factors influencing weaving
efficiency are size pickup happiness, hairiness and spun yarn stretch. Through the use of
advanced control and regulating technology these parameters remain constant and optimal.
HIGH QUALITY:
1. Uniformly optimal sizing
2. Low hairiness
3. Low Elongation
4. Automatic section tension control
5. High Reproducibility

SIZE MACHINE MANUFACTURERS:

Benninger is a Swiss company and has been world's leading partner in textile.

Yamada Company is located in Japan and is known for its cone and cone sizing machine.
 WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESSES

West point is a supplier of world class sizing machine.

TREATMENTS OF WARPS:
Warp yarns undergoes significant stresses weaving. For this reason warps are sometime sized
during or after warping. Sizing binds the fibers in the yarn together. The ingredients used in
sizing are starches, gums, synthetic adhesives, fatty or oily substances (to act as plasticizer or
softeners). Starch solution is used for natural fibers, while synthetic finishes for synthetic fibers.
Wax: Synthetic wax compounds can be added to the warp as mild size, to smooth the yarn and
act as a lubricant.
Antistatic agents: Antistatic agents are used to reduce problems associated with static generation
during the weaving process.
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TYPES OF SIZING:
Size Application of size
Light 10-15%

Pure 16-20%

Medium 26-50%

Heavy 50-100%
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WEAVING MECHANISM: DRAWING & TYING-IN

DRAWING-IN:
The drawing-in process comes just after the preparation of weaver’s beam. The weaver’s beam is
obtained from sectional warping or sizing. High fashion fabrics generally have high density
which increases the demand on the quality of shed opening. As a result, warp leasing is
becoming more popular. Different lease combinations can be selected with the automated leasing
machines.
The process of passing the warp ends from weaver's beam through the drop wire, heald eyes and
reed dents in case of tapper and dobby weaving or through drop wire, harness cords, and dents
in case of jacquard weaving in a pre-decided order as decided by required cloth design is called
drawing-in.

Figure 1 (Drawing-in)
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The ends drawn through the heald eyes or harness cords are simultaneously drawn through the
dents of the reed of appropriate count and width depending upon the end density and width of the
fabric. In principle, drawing-in process can be divided into three parts:
1. manual drawing-in process
2. mechanical drawing-in process
3. fully automatic drawing-in process (warp master)

Figure 2 (Schematic diagram for drawing- Figure 3 (warp drawing-in system)

in)
 MANUAL DRAWING IN PROCESS:
Manual drawing-in process is performed with the help of an upright frame for mountain heald
frame and the Reed. It requires two persons to carry out this operation. One person find
subsequent end from the Weavers Beam and gives it to the other person, who in turn draws the
same through the appropriate heald eye and dent spacing.
This method is more labor-oriented and very less amount of capital is required. It is the most
versatile method for drawing-in any count of warp or any pattern. However, a separate drawing
in section is necessary to carry out this operation increasing the total floor space requirements.
Drawing in process is very time consuming and the cost of drawing in is more than any other
process
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Figure 4 (manual drawing-in machine)

 MECHANICAL DRAWING-IN PROCESS:

It is divided into two parts.
 Semi-automatic reaching-in process
 Fully automatic warp tying process

o Semi-automatic reaching-in process:

The reaching-in machine is used for the purpose of and finding from Weavers Beam. In this way,
this arrangement reduces the requirement of two operators to one operator per frame. In this
situation the employed operator draws the ends as required by the reaching-in machine through
appropriate heald eyes and dents in the Reed according to desired fabric design. 
This method of drawing-in is quicker, work quality is better and drawing-in cost is
comparatively less than the manual drawing-in process. This process requires less floor space in
comparison to manual drawing and process. This automation requires a considerable amount of
investment, Hence its installation is justified only in the situation of ample work to engage the
machine around the clock. Semi-automatic reaching-in process comes in machine jaytex warp
reaching-in machine. It is available in two model JI type and JII TYPE
o Fully automatic warp tying process:

This machine is able to eliminate the conventional drawing-in process completely. This machine
has the facility of tying each end of running warp sheet with the corresponding and of the new
weavers Beam. The prime requirements of this process are that the new set to be woven should
have the exactly same Reed width and Reed count, as well as the same cloth design as the
previous set. Hence, this type of machine is useful at the places where the same sets are run over
a long period of time. This machine requires a considerable amount of investment in comparison
of both manual and semi-automatic warp tying machine. This machine requires high level of
 WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESSES

attention and regular maintenance. The major advantage of this machine is its very high
productivity in comparison of both manual and semi-automatic drawing in process. The process
becomes more economic if machine runs in full capacity. This machine can work directly on
loom, and eliminate the separate drawing in section and related inventory. 
 FULLY AUTOMATIC DRAWING-IN PROCESS:
Today, the drawing-in and tying-in processes are fully automated. Drawing-in is done using
robot-like machines. A special type of heddle is needed for automated drawing-in. The warp
ends, taken from the warp sheet, are fed individually to the drawing in element; heddles are
separated from the stack and brought to the drawing-in position; a plastic knife opens a gap in
the reed and a hook draws-in the warp end through the heddle and reed in one step.

Figure 5 (fully automatic drawing-in machine)

Automatic drawing-in increases speed, flexibility and quality in weaving preparation compared
to manual drawing-in. A drawing-in rate of 50,000 warp ends per 8 hours (200 ends per minute)
is possible. Changing style means producing a new fabric style, weaver’s beam changing means
going on weaving the same fabric style just replacing the empty beam with a full beam of same
type
COMMON TERMINOLOGIES USED IN DRAWING-IN:
DRAFTING: “A process of passing the end through the eye of heald wire or harness according
to the draft (sequence of drafting the ends) is called drafting”. When the drafting is performed
manually, two persons do this job. The person who selects the ends and presents them for
drawing is called reacher. The person who draws the ends through the eye of heald wire with the
help of drawing hook is called drawer.
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Figure 6 (DRAFTING)
DENTING: When the drafting of the ends is completed, these ends are passed through the dent
of reed. We can say that “denting is the process of passing the ends through the dents of reed
according to the denting order of the fabric to be woven”. It can be performed by single person
or two people. In case of two persons, one person selects the ends and presents it to the other
person who passes these ends through the dents of reed.

Figure 7 (DENTING)

COMMONLY OCCURRING DEFECTS IN DRAWING-IN PROCESS:

 EXTRA ENDS:
Some warp thread is generally cast out during drawing in process to fill for long missing end on
Weavers Beam. 
 LAPPERS:
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If the lappers are cut and mended after the completion of Weavers Beam after sizing, extra ends
drawing-in or warp tying all not required. If due to any reason, the Lappers removed no sooner
these are founded, the same ends should not be selected for withdrawing or tying up. 
 CROSS ENDS:
The formation of cross ends during fabric manufacturing can be minimized by presenting the
warp ends for drawing-in or warp tying properly, parallel to each other in their respective
positions as in the beam. Proper combing and dressing of warp ends can minimize this problem
up to some extent.

TYING-IN:
When the fabric design is repeated on the same loom after weaver’s beam exhaustion, there is no
need to perform drawing-in process on that loom. The tying process is used to replace the
exhausted weaver’s beam with new weaver’s beam. Tying or knotting is the process of joining
the ends of exhausted weaver’s beam with the ends of new weaver’s beam. It is performed
manually or mechanically. When it is performed manually, it is called “piecing”. When it is
performed mechanically, it is called “knotting”.
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The warp ends are pulled through the heddle

eyes and reed until the knots are cleared. A
small portable robot is used on or off the
weaving machine for tying-in. A typical warp
typing machine can knot single or ply yarns
from 1.7 to 80 Ne (340-7 Tex). They knot
cotton, wool, and synthetic and blend warp
yarns as well as yarns of different thickness.
Typical knotting of a knotter is from 60-600
knots per minute. With a continuous
filaments and bulky yarns, a non-slip double
knot is recommended which can handle by
knotting machine. Some automatic tying
machine can knot extremely short tails of
yarns (5mm). Tape yarns and monofilaments require a slightly different typing machine. Tape
yarns up to 8mm width can be tied. The knotting speed is typically 60 to 450 knots per minute.
The number of warp ends to be tied together can be preprogrammed; once this number is
reached, the knotter stops automatically. A dual knotting system is used on a double beam
weaving machine; the knitters work from left to right and from right to left simultaneously. The
warp welding machine is used to weld the warp end layer with a plastic foil after drawing-in
which provides simple insertion through the weaving machine. This results in time saving at the
machine startup. After drawing-in with a brush beam the ends protruding from the reed are
aligned parallel and stretched evenly. An approximately 5cm wide plastic foil is placed on top of
the lower welding bar and a longer piece of plastic foil is placed on the warp yarns above the
lower piece of plastic foil. By moving the upper welding bar down, the plastic foils are welded
together with the warp yarns in between.
Several points should be considered during drawing-in typing-in. Improper splicing and / or
knotting can become critical to good weaving performance. The straightness of individual warp
yarns and their freedom to act independently as they pass through a weaving machine are
important for quality weaving. Yarns that are crossed and tangled cannot proceed without
excessive stress and yarns that are restricted or influenced by drop-wire activity, heddle spacing,
harness interference or reed spacing will not weave at top performance. Two types of machine
are used:
Stationary machine: the tying-in a place
in a separate room away from the Loom.
Portable machine: these are used at the
Loom.
Stationary machines have the
disadvantage that necessitates moving
the exhausted beam and all its parts from
the Loom and taking it to and from the
tying-in department. However, they have
the advantage of permitting maintenance
of the loom to be carried out.
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But I'm digging to tie-in a complete warp depends mostly upon the total number of ends in that
warp but it is also affected by secondly factors which tend to retard productivity. For example, a
color stripe must be tied in proper register and the operator will have to stop tying if there has
been a broken end in order to adjust the machine give proper register. The count and type of yarn
(together with the Reed and heddle details) determine the type of knot, to be used and this affects
the rate of knotting. Also the nature of the yarn can affect the breakage rate during knotting and
thus influence the total time needed for tying-in.
The capacity of warp-tying machine has remained unchanged for years. A capacity of about 600
Knots/min appears to be the maximum. The machine can deal with flat Warp or leased warp and
with a warp width of about 5m (5yd). The sequence of operation is normally as follows:
 The machine selects the warp ends from the new beam.
 It selects the corresponding ends from the old beam. 
 It ties the two ends together and moves to the next. 
Following the tying-in process, all knots are pulled through to the cloth roller, the drop wires,
heddle, and Reed; the Loom is now ready for operation. 
A similar process can be used where similar (but not identical) fabric are to be produced.
Obviously, identical drawing-in draft and Reed plans are required. Various model of jaytex warp
tying-in machine are:
o JL MODEL
o JS MODEL
o JSL MODEL

WEFT:
The crosswise threads on a loom that are passed over and under the warp threads to make cloth.

PREPARATION OF WEFT:
The preparation of weft yarns tends to differ from those required from warp yarns .It only
requires winding on different packages.
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1. Pirn Winding
2. Cone winding

WINDING PROCESSES:
1) PIRN WINDING:
A pirn is a weft bobbin that is placed inside the shuttle in shuttle weaving, it’s also known
as quill.
 PROCESS:
 In quilling, the yarn is transferred from a larger package to smaller quill or pirn.
Quill building is somewhat similar to the building of bobbin on a ring spinning
frame. This type of winding reduces ballooning effects, maintain uniform
tension and reduce the possibility of slough off. The winding machine which is
used to wind the quill is called QUILLERS, it is an automatic machine which
means that when the quill is filled automatically an empty quill is placed on the
spindle.
 The inspection of yarn is not part of the process, therefore; there is no yarn
clearing zone.
 The yarn on the quill is tapered at one end such that the yarn with drawl takes
place continuously without entanglement.

2) CONE WINDING:
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Cone is a large package of yarn on which yarn is wound in order to make it use in
subsequent machinery.
 PROCESS:
 Put the cones on the cop holder for all the drums.
 Operate the control switches for starting and stopping the machine.
 Follow the different signals lamps and identify the issue if there is any.
 If lapping is there in any drum, remove the lapping manually without
damaging the drum.
 If there is any ribboning in any cone, stop the cone and correct the defect.
 Ensure proper functioning.
 Always handle cones with clean hands to avoid stain on the product.

CONE WINDING MACHINE:

NECESSITY OF WEFT YARN PREPARATION:

1) Removal of slubs and weak places, otherwise it would impair the running loom.
2) Yards per pirn the production of the tighter packages have. Number of pirn changes in the
loom is reduced for this. For that it reduced the possibility of flaws and wastage.
3) Small lots are easily handled.
WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESSES
 WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESSES

GLOSSARY:
1. Softeners: Softener is a finishing agent, it when applied improves its handle
giving pleasure to touch.
2. Plasticizer: They are used to make fabric more comfortable, resilient, and resistant
to become brittle over time.
3. Starch: It is used as a size, it strengthened warp yarns and provide resistance from
abrasions.
4. Knotting: A knot made by splitting rope yarns and joining the ends with half-
knots and used to tie rope yarns together.