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Design of an Electronic Jacquard Sampling Loom

Conference Paper · April 2019

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 DESIGN OF AN ELECTRONIC JACQUARD SAMPLING LOOM
M. Kaplan1*, D.M. Ala2, N. Çelik3,
1
Bartın University, Textile Engineering Department, Bartın, Turkey
2
Çukurova University, Adana Organized Industrial Zone Vocational School Technical Sciences,
Adana, Turkey
3
Çukurova University, Textile Engineering Department, Adana, Turkey

Abstract
Manual and semi-automated sampling looms, manufactured by Gulas-Machine (Istanbul) are
being widely used in textile industry, educational institutions and similar occupational
activities in Turkey. These looms can weave dobby patterns. There is not any national
manufacturer of Jacquard sampling looms. This project involves designing, improving and
making a prototype sampling loom with using a ready-made Jacquard shedding mechanism.
Individually manipulating of warp threads with jacquard shedding mechanism may offer more
complicated patterning. Weft insertion, take up, fabric rolling and warp feeding systems work
manually. This paper represents technical information, functions and usage of the developed
sampling loom.

Key Terms
Jacquard sampling loom, shedding, sample fabric, design, development, prototype

1. Introduction
In recent years, companies operating in all areas related to textile are facing a very competitive
business environment worldwide. Under increasing costs and strict competition conditions,
textile companies need to develop their core competence by offering innovative products to
survive. Nowadays, weaving companies, which are facing more competition, have to make
production by following the products which are useful and fashionable for the consumer in
order to maintain their share in the market and to take a share from new markets. The fact that
fashion and trends change much faster than in the past makes it necessary to systematically
produce innovative products for development. Developing innovative products in a fast,
continuous and economic way has now become the most important issue in the long run among
textile entrepreneurs, providing competitive advantage.

Sampling looms are commonly used to weave sample woven fabrics. Before industrial
production of fabric, it is important to introduce a sample woven fabric. Various fabric
characteristics such as pattern surface appearance, yarn and colour plans, weave construction,
warp and weft densities and fabric effect are very important in terms of planning, R&D and
industrial production activities. In addition, it is known that the practical training on weaving
machines in textile educational institutions is very important for the development of students'
knowledge and skills and their ability to grow as qualified personnel for textile industry.

Manual sampling looms, GARM-55 manufactured by Gülas-Makina (Istanbul) have being

widely used in textile industry, educational institutions and similar occupational activities in
Turkey. In addition to GARM-55, electronically controlled weaving sampling loom, called as
GARM-B55, and a new woven designing software were developed by the Textile Engineering
Department of Cukurova University of Turkey and Gülas-Makina within the Project Works1
which was sponsored by the Turkish Goverment The shafts (frames) of GARM-B 55 has been
suitably designed for the types of most commonly used healds, 330 mm in length, named with
letters O, C and J. Motion control of heald frames is supplied by a software developed for
weaving structural design and planning. This software has been specially of this our new loom.

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A touch screen computer is available with the loom. Heald shaft motion is a computer/software
controlled through a pneumatic system which is working with a silent compressor of the loom.
Maximum working width in weaving is 55 cm. Development researches have still been carried
out on the new type of sampling loom by the PhD and MSc students and of course by the
technical support of Gülas Makina in all aspects under the supervision of Prof. Dr. Nihat
ÇELİK and Dr. Deniz Mutlu ALA2-9. These sampling looms can weave dobby patterns
requiring up to 24 harnesses. To weave more complex patterns Jacquard shedding mechanisms
must be used. Individually manipulating of warp threads by means of harness cords offer a
nearly unlimited patterning in jacquard machines10. Therefore, jacquard machines are used not
only to production woven fabrics with large and complex patterns but also production of fabrics
for technical purpose (Air-bag, 3D- structures etc.) especially in recent years11. However, there
is not any national manufacturer of Jacquard sampling looms.

This study involves designing, improving and making a prototype jacquard sampling loom with
having a ready-made jacquard shedding mechanism. Individually manipulating of warp threads
with jacquard shedding mechanism may offer more complicated patterning. Weft insertion,
take up, fabric rolling and warp feeding systems work manually. This paper represents
technical information, functions and usage of the developed sampling loom.

2. Materials and Method

A ready-made Jacquard shedding mechanism was used in making of the prototype. The main
frame and the other loom mechanisms are designed according the jacquard shedding system.
Solidworks® 3D drawing program is used for three-dimensional drawings of prototype. All
parts of main frame were made from ST37 steel. Besides, laser cutting and cold bending were
applied if necessary. Jacquard shedding system, electric-electronic control elements, knives,
control panel and power-supply motors are assembled on the main frame. Hence, the sampling
loom was tested by checking the compatibility between mechanics and electronics. Finally,
some patterns were woven to evaluate the weaving capability of our jacquard sampling loom.

3. Jacquard Sampling Loom

The loom has a capacity of 192 hooks with weaving with a maximum warp number of 960 and
patterning at a width of 67,5 cm. A picture and that of the main frame of developed jacquard
sampling loom are shown in Fig. 1. In order to expand the weaving width, 5 harness cords were
attached to each hook. Thus, multiple pattern repetition can be performed with weaving with a
maximum warp number of 960 (192x5). Electronic jacquard modules were used in jacquard
shedding mechanism. Each warp thread is manipulated according to the weaving pattern
through a jacquard unit which consists of elements such as pulleys, hooks, retaining hooks,
knives, and an electromagnet. The task of the modules in the machine is to convert the
electronic data to the mechanical motion to open the shed. Electronic signals are generated by
the jacquard control card according to the pattern information received from a jacquard CAD
software as illustrated in Fig. 2. Each of the 24 electronic modules used in the prototype can
provide control of 8 hooks individually. On the prototype, the knife system is driven by a
stepper motor with 4.5 Ampere current and 12 Nm maximum torque placed on top of the
jacquard mechanism. The stepper motor rotates the crank linkage mechanism at each weft
insertion, which is converted into the vertical movement of the knives connected to the
crankshaft. The jacquard head, the knives and stepper motor are shown in Fig. 3.

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 Fig. 1. Jacquard sampling loom and its frame

Fig. 2. Workflow of jacquard sampling loom and fabric production

Fig. 3. Jacquard head, knives and stepper motor

4. Conclusions
This paper introduces a prototype jacquard sampling loom designed to weave jacquard sample
fabrics. Developed jacquard sampling loom is capable to produce complex jacquard fabric

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 samples as well as the samples of having simple patterns. So, we assume that it can contribute
to textile industry and education. Technical parameters are given in Table I.

Table I. Technical parameters of prototype

Jacquard type Electronical jacquard module
Number of hooks 192
Pattern repetition 5
Total number of harness cords 960
Maximum fabric width 67,5 cm
Harness tie Straight harness tie, serial weaving draft

Acknowledgements
This study was supported by Department of Scientific Research Projects of Cukurova
University of Turkey. Project Code: FBA-2016-6295. Authors also thank Gülas-Makine for all
technical supports.

References
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sampling weaving loom with computer-controlled shedding and patterning, SAN TEZ
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Çukurova University, Adana, Turkey, 2015
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