8/23/2018 Kolhapuri Chhapal | Gaatha .

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Posted on: December 23, 2017 By: gaatha_home With: 1 Comment

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Atop Sahyadri mountains withstands a beholder, all that need not come close…
August 2018 (2)
deceit and foul play of the theatrics around…. is silently swallowed by a carpet of July 2018 (1)
white clouds oating right on top of the city… not to touch the little nail of his toe. December 2017 (1)
November 2017 (1)
This holy priest to-be is already in his warm red garb waiting for the rendezvous
September 2017 (2)
to begin… mornings are for prayers. A witness to the centuries gone by, these August 2017 (1)
walls of Mahalaxmi temple of Kolhapur have stood like a calm listener awaiting July 2017 (1)
May 2017 (1)
stories that come by… as prayers sung by hissing winds and the parade of April 2017 (3)
orchestrating birds. March 2017 (1)
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8/23/2018 Kolhapuri Chhapal | Gaatha . गाथा ~ handicrafts
May 2013 (15)
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December 2010 (4)
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Dawn breaks free… the morning breeze, the ocks of birds leaving nests, the
August 2010 (4)
chanting of the priests, urging the city to wake up to the call, to drop the dark July 2010 (4)
June 2010 (4)
blanket they wore to slumber last night… that weighed them heavy… that has
May 2010 (4)
been dried by the gold of sun, delivering them naked and fresh again in the arms April 2010 (5)
of mother earth. A rush of old beliefs & modern thoughts comes together towards March 2010 (5)
February 2010 (6)
the Western Ghats, where the city of Kolhapur awaits the results of this perfect January 2010 (7)
blend. Also called the Dakshin Kashi of India, Kolapur is surrounded by lush November 2009 (2)

green landscapes which house incredible archaeological & cultural heritage.

Legend goes that the city was settled by Kolhasur, a demon who was later killed
by Mahalakshmi to relieve the local populace. However, honoring the demon’s
dying wish, the city was named after him. The goddess of wealth and power, Devi
Mahalaxmi’s temple is located at the heart of the city. This temple is famous
for its well known South Indian Architecture, built by Chalukya king Karndev in
634 AD.
 

 
Kolhapur is one of the oldest civilizations of the country. In 1945, excavations on
the Brahmapuri in Kolhapur have revealed the existence of an ancient town
dating back to the Roman era. Its cultural history is dated back to 17th Century.
The princely state has been ruled by di erent dynasties in the past, but it was
under the rule of the Marathas that it became a cultural hub. Rajarshi
Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaja is the architect and founder of modern Kolhapur.
Shahu Maharaja’s reign lent a progressive spirit to the city and the king extended
his patronage to arts like theater, lm making, music, painting, sculpture,
wrestling and crafts like tanning and jewelry making. He was not among the male
ancestors of this dynasty as he was born as the eldest son to Appasahed Ghatge,

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the Chief of Kagal on 26th June 1874 and was named as Yashwatrao Ghatge. In
the year 1884, Rani Shrimant Anandibai Raje Saheb decided to adopt him and
made him Chhatrapati of the princely state of Kolhapur. Chhatrapati Shahu
Maharaj ascended the throne of Kolhapur in 1894, bringing an end to the 50 year
old regency administration. His reign of 28 years from 1894 to 1922 ushered a
new era of social, cultural and economic reforms for which he is remembered as
one of the greatest rulers in Maharashtra. After the reign of Chhatrapati Shahu
Maharaj, the Bhosale Dynasty continued on the Throne of Kolhapur.
 

 
Taking birds on its way the wind reaches the oating river Panchganga to collect
stories of the day. Birds sit a oat, soaking in their spongy under coat the owing
messages… what is it that the soil feels under so many stamping feet, the
boulders grumble for a reason and the storms thunder not for no reason…. The
cacophony of the charioteers trading their harvest and all this play happens in
whose interest…The River questions the breeze “Why are you so late! I have
thousands of things to share…” & the breeze starts collecting these messages
rather quickly. A bag full of stories each bird becomes and ies towards the
temple. The birds start to unfurl the messages & the wind binding them all
together speaks up “I the morning breeze bring to you messages of the city as
told to me by the river so mighty… ” The temple walls are all ears in delight…
Overwhelmed with the response, the wind unfolds freely “Unfamiliar footsteps
are climbing the rugged mountains in the dark hours, gracing the city with their
unusual attire, bringing a strange aura with them. Carrying humongous sacks
around with cattle, pulling carts full of goods; they are the Saudagars from
di erent regions coming to the city, to make a living. After an overnight journey
bruised feet often retire themselves by the banks of Panchganga waiting for the
day to peep in.
 

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As the sun rises they make their way towards the bazaar again. The bazaar has
hundreds of lanes where traders sit on either sides working out their way by
selling o their goods to the customers. On the far end of the lane a young man
sits… acknowledged by none he looks for an opportunity to run his livelihood. He
gazes at bruised & bleeding feet walking past him & thinks to himself; “I can
make something to ease their pain and also earn a penny for a change.” After
researching for days he comes up with an idea of making a chappal (sandle), an
acquaintance through the rocky mountains, saving the wearer from snakes &
scorpions, 70 Vinchu seeds(Martynia annua or Devil’s claw seeds) he puts
inside a single chappal and oils it with groundnut oil, giving them a crackling
sound with every step …. This he believes will scare the insects around. These
chappals are made with animal hide to beat the heat & also be water resistant at
the same time.
 

 
After thinking it thoroughly he set a small shop at roadside corner & in no time his
chappals became the talk of the town & Saudagars from every corner started
coming to him with personal demands to be incorporated in the design along with
their customized foot size. The young man wonders to himself “Once a neglected
no one, now people from every corner come to buy these chappals from me” &
with that thought he gets back to making again….”
 

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To make a Kolhapuri Chappal craftsmen use many tools like Hammers of di erent
sizes, Punches, Rappi (Knife), Sewing Machine. These chappals are made from
processed leather. Mainly bu alo, goat or bull hides are used in the
manufacturing of these. This leather is processed and grazed. The process of
making the chappal starts with removing the hair from the hide. Salt & lime
powder is mixed with water in a big tank & the hides are soaked in it for four
days.
 

 
As the skin becomes softer it is stitched with Sisal leaves into a bag form. Harada
(Myrobalan fruits) pieces, Babul pieces with water are mixed in a wooden bucket
called as Teep for about ve days. This mixture is lled in the leather bag in the
upper portion for about 7-8 days and further the mixture is lled to the lower
portion and tied for about 8 days.
 

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The craftsmen prepare a surface of babul tree for drying the leather under the
sun for 2-3 days & afterwards they are kept in storage. Leather is washed again to
make it soft & simple tools are used to make it ever smoother. After a design &
the size are nalized, the craftsmen use a stencil to mark the shape & size.
Layers after layers are stacked together to prepare a sole, to bind those leather or
cotton threads are used to stitch them together.
 

 
After the sole is ready, the craftsmen proceed to make di erent types of
decorative straps using soft leather stripes & punched leather pieces. These
di erent types of knots & stitches are one of the main qualities of a Kholapuri
chappal & sometimes local adhesives are also used to stick di erent parts. Lastly
a shoe cream, a color mixed with little water is used to get a yellowish or reddish
color.
 

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The straps are attached to the base part of the chappal & for ornamentation
purpose di erent type of threads and zari are used. Named after the city,
Kolhapuri chhapals have a very strong character, one that is easily identi ed by
their aesthetics. Local craftsmen also have di erent names for these chappals;
like Kapsae, Korwnda, Nachemaruie, Agutapata, ShahuMaharaj, Maherban,
LadiesPaper etc.
 

 
Predominantly crafted by the people from the lower caste, with time they have
become a major identity of the city. The dusk approaches & it’s time for the wind
to leave and the birds too should get back to their nests before it is too dark.
“Many people in the city await my arrival” says the wanderer wind…. And
heads straight to hit the highest gong in the temple premises…. & leaves the
temple bewildered & awestruck!

Agutapata Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj Craftsmanship

Handmade crafts Maharashtra Handmade footwear process

hhapal making tools Punches Kapsae Kolhapur story

Kolhapuri Chappal craftsmen Kolhapuri Chhapal Kolhapuri chhapal designs

Korwnda leather crafts India Maherban Making & Process Kolhapuri

Making of chhapal Nachemaruie Rajarshi Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaja Rappi

ShahuMaharaj Vinchu seeds

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