Rogan art: a Journey into luxury

A research assignment about a craft practiced in India, with

potential of a luxury experience. Compiled by Shreya Kale

Rogan art or Rogani Kaam is an extremely skillful painting done on fabrics,

practiced by the Khatri family in Nirona, Kutch. It is an idiosyncratic narrative of a
union of civilizations in the heritage of India.
The origin of the craft dates back to several centuries and it traveled to India with
the Afridis from Syria via Persia and Pakistan, and eventually settled in Kutch. The
animal herding community in the region embellished cotton and wool fabrics with
Rogani Kaam, principally for the bridal trousseau. With the advent of mechanized
systems to manufacture clothing, its practice and consumption were reduced.

Tourism was not so common in Kutch in the 20th century. However, it gained
humongous traction due to development campaigns in the region, after the Bhuj
earthquake in 2001 which affected the lives of about 1 million population. It
attracted the attention of international and national tourists, who appreciated the
craft culture of Kutch.

The Khatri community residing in Nirona village are expert artisans, who have
been practicing this art form for ages. The artisans do not go through any formal
training. The expertise in process, designs, and aesthetics is inherited and passed
on to every generation. Rogan is now identified as an exclusive art form of the region,
as it fascinated the eyes & mind of the viewer with the process and dramatic hand
movements of the creator.

Craft attributes ~ pièce de résistance

The richness of textile, craft and embellishments found in India is beyond any
academic documentation. Here is an attempt to describe the magnificence and
perceived value of Rogani Kaam:

Rarity Rogani Kaam is currently practiced and preserved only by the Khatri
family. The knowledge about the techniques and recipe of making the colored
paste is limited within the family itself and not disclosed in the public. Only a
restricted number of people outside the family are taught painting skills for the
sustenance of the craft. This makes the craft totally exquisite. In this painting
style, the tip of the stylus carrying the colored paste does not touch the surface.
Motifs are drawn with the stylus in the air, gliding above the fabric and guided by
the other hand of the artisan moving under the fabric. This imbibes the
characteristic of rarity to the craft.

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Excellence Artisans practicing Rogani Kaam carry the legacy of skills and have
earned them with decades of practice. The final result we get to see is a
combination of an artisan’s functional abilities, perseverance, motivation,
imagination and work ethics. Had there been any kind of tampering with these
standards, it would have been impossible to get a glimpse of pieces and
techniques in fine condition from the bygone era. The colored paste unifies with
the fabric with time, making it lasting and indelible.

Expensiveness A product’s expensiveness does not justify it being a luxury. But

conversely, all luxury products are expensive. Expensiveness strengthens its
uniqueness and singularity and gives reason to believe that the product delivers
excellence. Merchandise with Rogan painting technique tends to fall above the
premium price range, due to the required time & efforts in making.

Timelessness Rogan painting is an inherited skill, dating back to about 400 years.
The knowledge behind the craft we see today is timeless and will be everlasting
through the Khatri family. With time, this craft required to change the end-use and
user group for its own survival. This helped it to become a timeless piece of luxury,
meant to be cherished and treasured.

Honest The craft has acquired the attention of art and lifestyle connoisseurs. Its
distinctiveness in terms of the technique is so effective, that it does not require
huge advertisement campaigns to chase the audience. Unlike other craft
techniques, Rogani Kaam does not face imitation issues due to its unique design
language. One can either buy and experience the art piece from the Khatri family
in Nirona or source it via authorized and trusted suppliers. Thus, the entire supply
chain remains transparent.

Tailored A piece of Rogani Kaam is entirely created through the artist’s

imagination and it reflects on the fabric. As mentioned earlier, it boasts a unique
design language. It is not industrially produced but carries the emotions and
sentiments of a human mind. The magical skill behind the creation ultimately
makes it feel specifically designed and bespoke.

Pleasurable Rogan paintings have been adorned on the walls of the White
House. The Tree of Life painting not just marks its tactile presence, but also the
emotional value of possessing a craft that elicits status and power.

Experiential We now have an idea about the worth of Rogan art. The craft unveils
an immersive experience right from its awareness, to making to its consumption.
It signals affluence and is about the little things that leave an outsized impression.