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Polyester staple fibre production and processing.

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 ffi

International
CottonConference
Bremen2O0B
 29th International Cotton Conference
BREMEN
April 2 - 5, 2008

Proceedings

Editor
Friedrich Marquardt, Bremer Baumwollbörse

Published by
Faserinstitut Bremen e.V. and Bremer Baumwollbörse
Am Biologischen Garten 2, 28359 Bremen Wachtstr. 17-24, 28195 Bremen
Tel.: +49 421 218-9329 Tel.: +49 421 339700
E-mail: sekretariat@faserinstitut.de E-mail: info@baumwollboerse.de
 Gontents pages

Prefaceto the Proceedings2008

Lead Author lndex 1
Session t: Global View on Cotton 3
o The consumer's role in ensuring fair working conditionsin the 4
textile industry
TanjaBusse
o tJpdateon cosfs of producing cotton in the world 5-9
RafiqChaudhry
o Comparative analysisof cottonsector reforms in Africa 10-26
and their impact on cotton quality
ColinPoulton
o Experienceswith the relocation of textile production to India 27-39
WernerBraun
. Recent developmentsin cotton production and cotton processing 40
in China
JohnCheh
o The internationalyear of naturalfibres 4149
BrianMoir
Sessionll: Cotton Productionand Ginning 50
. Ginning cotton for quality: The example of Brazil 5 1- 60
Jean-LucChanselme, JoäoLuizPessa
F . Ettperiencesof Bt cotton cultivation in lndia 61-72
Charudatta Mayee
o Alleviating cottonsfickrness - experience andfuture 73-77
researchtopics
GaryGamble
o The marketfor Australianlong stapleupland cotton 78-88
MarinusvanderSluijs
o Developmentin good agricultural practices for cotton in Brazil 89-92
AndrewMacdonald
Sessionlll: PanelDiscussion- Sustainabilityin Cotton Production 93
Session lV: Gotton Trade, Economics, New Products 94
o Polyester staple fibre production and processing 95-103
ThomasGries
o Detectionof genetically modified cotton in raw material 104
and cotton products
LotharKruse,HermannRüggeberg
o Innovationsfor cotton products 105
MarkMessura
 i

r
, ,a
| ,.
pages "'
I
Session V: Cotton Properties,Cotton Testing 106
'i

107'125 '
o |TMF cotton contamination suruey 2007 i
ChristianSchindler I .:r
ü
-'- - ----
o Resulfs of a study of lengthand neps with
measurement
- -- 126-144 .$
Premier aQura
'
AxelDrieling i

PiaoYan, ZhiiieZhang
. OnJine measurementof fiber tengthin the gin 151-158
HosseinGhorashi
o Cotton fibre linear density and maturity measurement 159- 180
and application
StuartGordon,GeoffreyNaYlor
Session Vl: Gotton Testing and Testing Harmonisation 181
ITMFInternationalGommitteeon CottonTestingMethods
o Chairmansreport ITMF committee on cotton testing methods
AntonSchenek
. lnternational activities in cotton classification standards 182- 185
JamesKnowlton
o Results of the firstyear of implementationof the CSrfC 186-201
Round Trial
AxelDrieling
o Cotton classing reform in China 202-206
XiaoxinYu, NaihuaWang
o Analysis of chemical residues on cotton and cotton products 207-210
RainerWeckmann
Session Vll: Cotton Processing 211
. New method for the detection and separation of foreign parts 212-216
i nclu di ng poly propylene
Armin Leder
. The way to optimal yarn quality 217-266
lrisBiermann
o Modern combing sysfems - economy and quality 267-271
AlbertRusch
o TruelVeps;Measurementand correlationto resultsin ring-spinning 272-28'1
Srinivasan
Varadarajan
. Five year spinning study 282-293
JonnFoulk
 POLYESTER STAPLE FIBRE PRODUCTION AND PROCESSING

T. Gries, A. Chennoth, I. Mählmann

Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen (ITA), Germany

H. Fischer
FIBRE Faserinstitut Bremen e.V., Germany

ABSTRACT

The fibre structure of synthetic filaments is realized during the polymer spinning
process only after the polymer is extracted through the spinneret and the properties
are determined by the processing parameters selected during production. The further
processes which can have an influence on the fibre properties only change the
structure which was initially delivered at the polymer spinning process. The
manufacturer of synthetic fibres guarantee the uniform quality of the fibres based on
constant production parameters and also quality control techniques in testing
laboratories. For the tests at laboratory scale fibres are tested with sample sizes of a
few grams which represent 1 ppm of an entire days production. Inspite of these strict
quality control parameters often fibres are manufactured where the processing
properties are quite different for the same fibre type. Among other fibre parameters,
the crimp and the fibre spin finish are the decisive quality parameters for PES staple
fibres. Amazingly the spin finish levels vary within a single bale of fibres produced. In
the AiF project 13642N the influence of the spin finish and crimp of fibres on the
processing behaviour of polyester fibres was studied in details. Using methods to
determine the crimp and spin finish levels of fibres the process was replicated at
laboratory levels and the process behaviour were understood. In the project certain
pragmatic test methods for evaluation of spin finish content and crimp were arrived
upon.

INTRODUCTION

The fibre consumption is a function of the development of mankind. The increase in

population is a predominant contributor to this development. In order to meet these
growing requirements synthetic fibres have evolved over the years.
Polyester fibres in both the filament and staple fibre form comprise a significant share
of the synthetic fibre market [John 00, Egb 97, NN 02]. For the year 2006, the sale of
Polyester fibre touched about 27 Million tons which is equivalent to the sum of the
consumption of all natural fibres excluding bast fibres (see fig. 1). This signifies the
widespread usage of polyester fibres in the industry.

95
Figure 1: Worldwide fibre consumption [Oer 07]

POLYESTER STAPLE FIBRE PRODUCTION

PROCESS

The high modulus high tenacity (> 65 cN/tex) polyester fibres are commonly known
as cotton type polyester fibres [Fou 95].
For the production of staple fibres the filaments are joint together into tow of up to
350 ktex at spinning rates of 1000-1500 m/min. Both direct spinning plants and
extruder spinning plants are used for this purpose. The layering of the tow often
place in large cans which then can be discontinuosly further processed in a fibre
street (see fig.2). The continuous further processing up to the bale stage is profitable
in the production of large batches and while using compact spinning plants. The tow
is drawn between multiple cylinder drafting rollers whilst adding heat. Then it will be
heat-set, treated with a finishing agent and crimped by means of stuffer-box.
Afterwards it is cut to the required fibre length in a cutting device and is pressed into
a bale form. During this process outlet speds of up to 300 m/min are reached
[Tet 93].

Figure 2: Scheme of a polyester fibre street [Rig 81]

96
FACTORS EFFECTING PROCESSING BEHAVIOUR

It is seen that crimp and spin finish have a great influence on the processing
behaviour along the staple fibre processing line [Mäh 04]. These two factors will be
explained in the following.

Spin finish application

The application of finish facilitates a problem free processing along the spinning line.
Basically there are two ways to applicate the finishing chemicals: by applying it on
the undrawn filament during the spinning process which is commonly known as spin
finishing and by post finishing of the fibre tows [Fal 81].
The chemical finish on the fibres helps in reducing the dynamic friction between
fibres (fibre-fibre friction) and between fibres and metal (fibre-metal friction).
It also helps in reducing static generation and protects the fibre surface.
The typical problems associated with the spin finish levels is the presence of
insufficient finish or uneven finish which results in high drawing forces.
During the application of spin finish, a water based solution containing a low
percentage of finishing chemicals is administered on the undrawn filament. The tow
is then filled into a can and taken off for the next processing steps. The application of
spin finish is necessary for a good handling of the fibre tow. Within a can the low
viscous finish tends to sink down to the bottom. This can be a reason for an uneven
distribution of the finish along the fibre tow. Actually this should be balanced by the
following post finishing process. [Kro 07]
In the first step of the post finishing the fibre tow is pulled through a trough filled with
finish. The fibre tow is then squeezed with the help of squeezing rollers. This could
be a single stage process (single dip single nip) or a double stage process (double
dip double nip) (Fig. 3 a). Another method of finish application is by spraying the
fibres with the finish solution (b). In this method too, squeezing rollers are used to
take the excess finish out of the fibres. For fibre tows normally troughs are used with
finish in it [Vei 07]. At the end of the post finishing process the fibres are again either
sprayed with finish before or after they are cut. Especially the spraying of finish with a
concentration of 5-6 % before cutting is common. This last finishing process
determines the amount of finish on the PES staple fibre [Kro 07].

Figure 3: Schematic diagrams of methods for application of spin finish to

fibre tows [Vei 07]

97
Crimping process

The most important crimping method for spun fibres is the stuffer box mechanism
where the uncut fibre tows are crimped by applying pressure and heat. In this
mechanism the fibre tow is pressed in a stuffer box with the help of rollers (see fig 4),
which apply pressure on the fibres. By pressing the fibres against the feed rollers the
fibre tow is folded and finally crimped.

Figure 4: baltic crimper [Neu 07]

The pressure and temperature play a vital role in deciding the crimp of the fibres.
These parameters can be regulated in a stuffer box. All processing parameters
including the amount of fibre and the width of the fibre tow along with the temperature
and pressure within the stuffer box must be held constant in order to achieve
constant crimp levels.
The number of crimp structures per unit length is mainly determined by the pressure
in the stuffer box. The consistency of the crimp depends on the stuffer box
temperature, which helps in thermo-fixing the crimp in the fibres and the relation of
the feed and delivery velocity. In order to achieve higher consistencies certain
additional thermo fixation is necessary.

QUALITY ASSESMENT OF DECISIVE FIBRE PARAMETERS

In order to achieve constant quality of staple fibre yarns, the manufacturers use
different quality control checks. One option is to test fibre samples, which have been
taken from the production line, for properties in a laboratory. The machine
parameters are then set depending on the properties which have been determined.
The other option is to control fibre properties with the help of sensors and control
systems.
One of the biggest disadvantages of the former method is the time lag between the
analysis of products in the laboratory and the necessary correction in the machine
parameters. This therefore results in a high rejection of the manufactured products.
Another risk involved is the volume of the sample which had been taken into
consideration. This is because a typical sample comprises of only about 8-10 g

98
material as against an entire days production of hundreds of tons [Sch 04]. This
reflects in the fact that polyester fibres with similar test results, depict varying
processing behaviour [Fis 01].
Online quality checks are employed for the following fibre parameter.

o Fibres with excessive length, which normally offer a problem (e.g. Lapping of the
drawframe roller) are prevented by controlling the cutter wheel (e.g. pressure of
draw roll)
o Furthermore a system can be developed which would help with the online
measurement of fibre crimp. This could be accomplished with the help of an
optical sensor, an intelligent camera and also a central controlling system
[Sch 03]. There is also a possibility of measuring the samples at-line wherein the
samples are measured for crimp levels [Tim 04]

However, there exist potential avenues for development of quality assessment

techniques which have not yet been addressed.

o Normally there is no information regarding the temperature along a spinning line.

Hence, there is a possibility to measure the temperature of the fibre tows before
specific processes such as fibre conditioning to control the temperature
homogeneity
o There is also a lack of information on the measurement of spin finish levels. The
spin finish applied normally directly influences the processing behaviour of the
fibre tow [Fis 01]
o The initial tension of the fibre tows before being passed through the stuffer box is
not monitored. This influences the tow regularity and also the crimp levels in the
fibres

PROCESSING OF POLYESTER STAPLE FIBRES

Polyester staple fibres are delivered in the spinning mill in the form of bales and are
further processed in mixtures with e.g. cotton. During the processing stages some
phenomenon takes place and have been clarified further on.

CHARACTERISTICS IN EACH PROCESS STEP

Disturbances and problems in the fibre processing emerge at different process

stages. These problems originate through the processing properties and parameters
of fibre tows. They are categorised as product specific problems (e.g. tow cutting,
willingness to open, nepping potential, unevenness and problems with attenuation)
and process specific problems (e.g. lapping of rollers, fibre fly, spinning breakages).
The processing properties (e.g. fibre friction, electrostatic generation, gluing
tendency) are influenced by many fibre specific properties. Properties such as fibre
fineness, fibre tensile strength, fibre flexural rigidity, fibre cross-section, length and
crimp and quantity of spin finish are the influencing factors [Egb 80, Ehr 81].

99
The typical processing problems of the polyester staple fibre along with their
probable reasons as experienced by polyester industry are briefly described in
table 1.

Table I

Machine Position Expected Problem Probable Reason

Card Upper chute Fibres stick to the chute Static generation among
wall fibres
Feeding plate Chocking Fibre lapping
Licker-in Fibre lapping Lubricated fibres
Main carding zone Chocking Melt points
Fibre transfer between Generation of neps Uncontrolled fibre transfer
cylinder and doffer
Fleece transfer / sliver Lapping Static generation among
formation fibres
Drawframe Drawframe Drafting problems Uncontrolled attenuation of
fibre slivers
Delivery rollers Roller lapping Static generation among
fibres
Excessive heating of the
rollers
Coiler tube Chocking Chocking
OE- Rotor Opening roller Roller lapping Lubrication due to excessive
spinning spin finish
Fibre transport tube Chocking Deposition of spin finishes
Rotor Yarn break Deposition of spin finish in
the rotor ring
Navel Yarn break Melt points
Ring Drafting Drafting problems Uncontrolled attenuation of
spinning the roving
Drawframe delivery Roller lapping Static generation among
roller fibres
Excessive heating of the
rollers
Spinning triangle Yarn break Minimal fibre fibre friction
Traveller Unevenness/yarn break Melt points due to the
heating up of the ring

100
RESEARCH AND RESULTS

In AiF project 13642N investigation were carried out to determine how the processing
parameters are dependent on the levels of spin finish and crimp. The importance of
the interdependence between the two properties and their influence on processing
was evaluated. It was observed that there were high variations in the spin finish
levels within a spinning mill (s. Fig. 5) as compared to the samples prepared in a
laboratory (s. Fig. 6).

0,5

bale 1
bale 2
0,4 bale 3
bale 4
bale 5

0,3
spin finish in [%]

0,2

0,1

0,0
20 22 24 26 37 39 48
calender week

Figure 5: Spin finish levels in different bales in a fibre spinning unit

0,35

target value
0,30
measured value by S&S method

0,25
spin finish [%]

0,20

0,15

0,10

0,05

0,00
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5
specimen number

Figure 6: Spin finish levels from different production methods

101
The investigation of processing behaviour revealed interesting results which are
summarised as follows.

The following interdependencies were observed in the OE- Rotor spinning process
o The spin finish level has a strong influence on the processing behaviour (e.g.
roller lapping and chocking of machine parts), however it is not translated to the
yarn quality
o The influence of the crimp levels on the processing behaviour is not significant
because the fibres undergo drafting
o Depending on the processing behaviour, the optimal spin finish levels of fibres lie
between 0.15% and 0.23%

For the ring spinning process the following interdependencies have been observed:
o Crimp and spin finish do not pose a problem during processing in contrast to the
rotor spinning process
o The crimp levels have an influence on the ring yarn quality – more crimp results in
a significant reduction of yarn quality
o A change in the spin finish levels does not essentially bring about a change in the
yarn properties

The results from the opening and cleaning processes along the spinning line can be
expressed as follows:
For rotor spinning the prerequisite is a sliver with high eveness. The sliver eveness
does not play a crucial role for the ring spinning process. Because the properties
such as fibre length, fibre hooks within the sliver are more important and influence
the yarn quality.
o Spin finish and crimp influence the coefficient of variation (CV) of the fibre sliver in
a contradictory way
o A rise in the spin finish amount above 0.20% has a negative influence and a
crimp intensity over 14.5 crimps per 25 mm have a positive influence on the sliver
quality.
o An ideal fibre for smooth processing on the Card could be characterised as
having a spin finish of about 0.20 % and a crimp level of about 17 crimps per 25
mm

FUTURE SCOPE

In the Aif project 13642N certain pragmatic test methods for evaluation of spin finish
content and crimp were arrived upon. These methods provide the spinner with the
possibility to track down the fibre properties to his raw material. To facilitate the
necessary fibre property measurements some methods are developed. Such as:
1. Investigation of the fibre sliver width (indicator of crimp)
2. Investigation of static generation (indicator of spin finish)
3. Investigation of the nepping potential of the fibres (indicator of interaction
between crimp and spin finish) and
4. Investigation of the fibre metal friction (indicator of interaction between crimp and
spin finish)

102
 With the help of the these methods it is possible to mix bales with e.g. high / low level
of spin finish to batch with medium levels of spin finish.

REFERENCES
[Egb 80] Egbers, G.; Ehrler, P.:
Methoden zur objektiven Beurteilung des Verarbeitungsverhalten
Abschlussbericht zum Forschungsvorhaben AiF 3799 am Institut für Textiltechnik Reutlingen-
Denkendorf, Denkendorf 1980
[Egb 97] Egbers, G.:
Überlegungen zum Einsatz von Fasern für die Kurzfaserspinnerei.
International Textile Bulletin Garn- und Flächenherstellung, Bd. 43 (1997) H. 1, S. 5,8-9
[Ehr 81] Ehrler, P.; Sprenkmann, W.:
Messungen der Präparationswirkung – Beurteilung des Verarbeitungsverhalten bei Stapelfasern
Chemiefasern/Textilindustrie, Bd. 31/83 (1981) H. 9, S. 656-661
[Fal 81] Falkai, B.:
Synthesefasern: Grundlagen, Technologie, Verarbeitung und Anwendung. Verlag Chemie,
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[Fis 01] Fischer, H.:
Erkennung der Ursachen für wechselnde Laufeigenschaften nominell gleicher Chemiefasern im
Spinnprozess. Abschlussbericht zum Forschungsvorhaben AiF 12048N am Faserinstitut
Bremen, Bremen 2001
[Fou 95] Fourné, F.:
Synthetische Fasern. Herstellung, Maschinen und Apparate, Eigenschaften.
Carl Hanser Verlag München Wien, 1995
[Joh 00] Johnson, T.:
Outlook for man-made fibers to 2005/2010
Chemical Fibers International, Bd. 50 (2000) H. Man-Made Fiber Year Book 2000, S. 24-26, 28
[Kro 07] Kropert, H.:
Firma Oerlikon Neumag
Zweigniederlassung der Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG, Neumünster
Persönliche Mitteilung am 19.12.2007
[Mäh 04] Mählmann, I.; Gries, T.
Untersuchung der Verarbeitung von PES-Stapelfasern
Melliand Textilberichte 85 (2004), S. 840-841
[Neu 07] Firmenschrift Machines and more… The Neumag catalog volume 3
Oerlikon Neumag Zweigniederlassung der Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG, Neumünster
[Oer 07] N.N.: Fibre Year 2006/2007, Oerlikon
[Rig 81] Riggert, K.:
Verstreckung von Polyester-Fadenkabel. Chemiefasern/Textilindustrie 31/83, 1981
[Sch 03] Schneider, H.:
Online crimp measurement with CIS 200-II
Chemical Fibers International, Bd. 53 (2003) H. 3, S. 196, 199-200
[Sch 04] Schemken, M.:
Firma Neumag GmbH, Neumünster
Persönliche Mitteilung am 15.01.2004
[Tet 93] Tetzlaff, G., Dahmen, G., Wulfhorst, B.:
Faserstoff-Tabellen nach P.-A. Koch. Polyesterfasern, 5. Ausgabe 1993
[Tim 04] Timmer, F.: Firma Zimmer AG, Frankfurt. Persönliche Mitteilung am 02.12.2004
[Vei 07] Veit, D.: Vorlesungsskript „Faserstoffe 2“. Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen, Aachen
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103

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