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How to Make a Hooded

Cloak with a Lining p1

MATERIALS
- Cotton twill (or other fabric)
- Satin (or other lining)
- Hook and eye (or other closure)
- Thread
- Hand sewing needle
- Measuring tape
- Fabric marker or chalk
- Pins
- Scissors
- Iron

Step 1: Measure & cut the fabric


This pattern can be adapted to kids and adult sizes.

First, measure how long you want the cloak, so from about the collarbone to just above the
floor (or however long you want it). I’m 5’ 6” and that’s 53” for me. Add an inch for the seam
allowance and 5 inches to account for the neckline. This is the total length.

Make sure both fabrics are at least that wide. 60” is a common width for apparel fabrics. If your
total length is longer than 60”, not to worry, there’s another way you can cut out the pieces.

For child sizes, you can use narrower fabrics.

The amount of fabric needed is your total length times 3. For me, that’s 53 + 1 + 5 = 59 x 3 =
177.

To figure out how many yards that is, divide by 36 and round up. That’s 5 yards for me. You may
have to add an extra yard for the hood. So I need 6 yards of both the outer fabric and lining
fabric.

Starting with the outer fabric, measure twice the total length and cut.
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Fold the fabric in half width-wise. Now fold it diagonally so the selvage edge meets the fold.

Measure out from the corner 59” or whatever your total length is, and mark with a fabric marker
or chalk.

Move the end of the measuring tape in and mark so it creates a curve.

Now mark the neckline the same way, going out 5 inches. This is a medium neckline. You can
use a smaller or larger radius for different sizes.

Cut out the fabric on the lines. When unfolded you should have a semi-circle.
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This diagram shows what we’ve done so far:

I’m going to cut out 2 more pieces to make it ¾ of


a circle.

Cut another piece of fabric to your total length


measurement. Fold it in half diagonally. Mark and
cut the same way as the first piece except for you
will be cutting through 2 layers instead of 4 layers.

After cutting the bottom and neckline, cut the


piece in half along the fold to create two smaller
pieces.
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This diagram shows how to fold and cut the


second piece. It also shows how the 3 pieces will
be assembled:

Repeat the exact same steps for the lining fabric.


FOR LONGER CLOAKS:
Here’s how to cut the pieces if your total length is longer than the width of your fabric. Start by
folding the fabric in half length-wise. On the fold line, measure your total length. Make a curve
from your mark. Mark a second piece right next to the first so the tip of the piece starts where
the curve of the first piece ends. Mark a radius of 5 inches for the neckline on both pieces.

Cut out the pieces. You’ll have a large piece and 2 smaller pieces. Repeat this 2 more times. The
longer the cloak, the narrower the pieces.

You may or may not need


one or two of the smaller
pieces. When getting the
fabric, an extra yard might
be necessary for large
cloaks. This diagram shows
how to cut the pieces for
this method:
How to Make a Hooded
Cloak with a Lining p5

Step 2: Sew the fabric together


Pin and sew all the outer fabric pieces together (right sides facing) with a ½” seam allowance.
Iron the seams open.

Do the same thing for the lining pieces.

Put the outer and lining pieces together with right sides facing. Pin around the bottom and
sides.

Sew with ½ seam allowance, leaving the neckline open.


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Turn the cloak right side out. Iron the edges flat. You can choose to topstitch around the edges
if you want, especially if the fabric doesn’t want to stay flat.

Step 3: Cut and sew the hood


There are many different shapes and sizes you can make the hood. Start by wrapping the mea-
suring tape over the top of your head to see how loose you want it. I want mine fairly loose, so
about 38”. Divide this in half and this is the hood height.

Now that the cloak pieces are together, you can tell exactly how long the neckline is. Add an
inch for seam allowance, then divide this measurement in half for the bottom of the hood.

The shape of the hood is totally up to


you. It can be as simple as a rectangle,
which will give it a small point at the
back. I’m going to curve the back and
bring it back further than the
neckline to make it larger. Or you
could make an exaggerated point.
Keep in mind there will be a ½” seam
allowance.
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Fold a piece of the outer fabric. I’m going to position the hood so the fold is at the top so there
won’t be a seam. Mark the height and bottom (neckline) of the hood. Draw the shape of the
back that you want.

Cut out the hood. Use this as a template to cut out a piece of the lining fabric.

Pin and sew the back of the outer fabric with right sides facing. Do the same for the hood lining.

Step 4: Sew the cloak and hood together


Pin the front edges of the outer hood and hood lining together with right sides facing. Sew
with a ¼” seam allowance.
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Turn the hood right side out and iron flat.

Pin the outer fabric of the cloak and outer hood necklines together with right sides facing. Sew
with a ½” seam allowance.

Fold in the edges of the cloak and hood linings and pin. Sew together with a hidden stitch.
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Step 5: Attach a closure


Finally, sew on a hook and eye closure at the top of the front. Sew the hook part onto the back
of one of the edges, making sure not to sew through to the front. You could also use a frog
closure, a button, or ties.

Then sew the other piece onto the front of the opposite side. And that’s it the cloak is finished!

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