Vegetable Production Guides - Prime Seedco Booklet (2020)

VEGETABLE
GROWING GUIDES
VEGETABLE
GROWING GUIDES
Index
Baby Corn - ------------ ------- ------ ------------- -- 1
Broccoli - --------- ---- ---------- --- ------ --- ------ 5
Cabbage- - - - - - - - - - ------------------ - --- --------- 10
Carrots - - - ------------------- - - --------- ----- --- 14
Cauliflower - - - - - - - - - - - - ---------- - - - - ------ ------- 19
Cucumber ------------- ---------- - - - -- ------- ----- 24
Field Tomato - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ------ ---- -------- -- 29
Green Bean ------------ ----- --------------- ------- 35
Lettuce - - - ------------ --------- ------- -- --- ----- 39
Okra - - - - - ----------- ----- ------- ----- ----- ---- 44
Onion - - - - ------------ ----- ------- ----- ----- ---- 49
Pea - - - - --------- -- --- ----- ----- -------- ----- - - 56
Pepper - - -------- ---- ---- --- ---- ------ ---------- 64
Potato TPS - - - - - - - - ----- ------- ------ ----- ---- ---- 71
Potato Tubers - - - - - - ---- ------ ---------- -------- ---- 75
Rape - - - --------- -------- ----- -------- ------ - 84
Spinach- - - --------- -------- ----- -------- ------ - 89
Squashes / Butternuts- -- --------- ---------------- ------ - 94
Sugar Bean - - - - - - - - ----- -- ------ ---------- ----- - - - 99
Tunnel / Greenhouse Tomato- -- --------------------------- - - --103
Watermelon --- ---- ------ ---- ---------------------------------------109
Baby Corn Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution
General
Baby corn are the unfertilized and undeveloped cobs of the maize plant. The crop is relatively quick and
inexpensive to grow making it well suited as a rotational crop in any horticultural operation.
Cultivars
Only use recommended cultivars supplied by Seed Co such as Thaigold, Prime Gold & SG18. NB:
Seed Co also supplies excellent sweetcorn varieties including Sentinel and Mint.
Soil and Fertilizer
Most soils are suitable for Baby corn production. As a general guideline if your soils are in the following
range, yields will be maximized.
pH 5.0-6.4
P205 (ppm 30-40
K2O (meq 0.2-0.4
A general recommendation for baby corn fertilization is: 350-400 kg/ha Compound D or Z should be
banded 5 cm below and to the side of the seed. On very light sandy soils use 200 kg / ha AN as top-
dressing split application at knee height and waist height. On heavier soils less AN may be used.
Population
A population of 120 000 plants per hectare is ideal. This may be achieved by several methods.
a. Machine planting. Rows 75cm apart with one seed every 11 cm apart.
b. Hand planting. Rows 75cm apart with 3-4 seed every 22cm apart thinned to 2-3 plants at two weeks.
c.) Hand planting. Beds 1.5m center to center. Two rows per bed +/-30cm apart. Intra row spacing
either one seed per 11cm or 2-3 seed per 22cm stations. Quantity of seed used depends on the cultivar
used and can vary from 30-60 kg/ha. Count the number of seeds per 1kg in order to accurately
establish the quantity of seed required per hectare.
Baby Corn | Page 2

Irrigation
It is important to keep the surface of the soil moist during germination, thereafter 24 to
32mm per week should be applied depending on the weather. The crop should never be
stressed at any time as this adversely affects yield.
Agro-chemicals for Baby Corn

Maize Streak Virus: Gaucho 600 FS @ 5,5ml per kg seed
Weeds: Grasses and Broadleaf: Bateleur Gold @ 1,2lts per ha
Cutworm: Karate Zeon @ 100ml per ha
Stalk borer and pink bollworm: Karate Zeon @ 200ml per ha
De-tasseling
Plants must be de-tasseled just after tassels have emerged. This is important to ensure
that pollination does not take place and result in seed growth causing excessive cob size. It
also brings on harvesting faster, increases the number of cobs and gives better cob
development. labor for de-tasseling is approximately 5.5 labor days per hectare.
Note: Some Baby Corn varieties are male sterile so do not require de-tasseling.
Harvesting
Reaping starts within a week of de-tasseling. It is crucial to harvest at the correct stage as
cobs become oversized very rapidly and then have no market value. As a very rough
guideline the cobs must be harvested when 1cm of silk is exposed. This, however, varies
with the different varieties as well as the cob number being removed from the plant. There
can be up to three cobs picked per plant. The unsheathed cobs should be between 1 and
2.5cm in diameter and between 7 and 12cm in length. Plants should be harvested daily to
ensure that one does not get behind picking. Harvesting continues for a period of two to
three weeks. At the peak of harvesting 10 pickers per hectare should be enough and
should be able to pick well over 100kg per person per day. The gross yield (including the
sheaths) should amount to about 11t/ha which will give an average 10% net export yield.
Baby Corn | Page 3

Post Harvesting Handling
Cobs must be placed in the shade immediately after harvesting. The cobs can be covered
with wet hessian to keep cool. They must then be stored in a cool place like a shed and will
not deteriorate while the husk is still on. Cobs can be sent to the pack house either in the
complete sheath, or as cigars, where the outer layers of the sheath have been removed and
the bottom of the sheath cut off. This reduces transport costs.
Grading and Packing

If grading and packing are to be done on farm then the cobs must be checked for worm
damage, deformities and other blemishes. All silks must be removed as any remaining on
the cob soon turn brown. A guide for grading and packing is to start with 40 punnets per
person per day and to increase to a target of 60. Once the husk has been removed it is
essential to place the cobs into cold storage as soon as possible (3 degrees).
Silage
The tassel, silks, husks and stalks are all a good source of nutrition rich in protein.
approximately 50 tons of fresh leaf and stalk per hectare will be available at the end of
picking. It will have the following breakdown:
22.7% dry matter containing:
5.7% total protein

1.8% fat
26.45 ber
59.9% nitrogen free extract (NFE)
6.2% minerals (0,31% calcium and 0.04% phosphorus)
57.3% total digestible nutrient
2.2% digestible protein
The nutrition is similar to that of fresh para-grass
Baby Corn | Page 4

Broccoli
Production & Spray Guide
Broccoli | Page 5
Broccoli Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”
General
Broccoli is a vegetable rich in vitamin C, protein, fiber and flavor. It is also known as a “Super
Food”. Broccoli belongs to the “Brassica – Genus” closely related to Cabbage, Brussels sprouts
and Cauliflower. Broccoli types are, Large headed varieties, Sprouting varieties and Romanesco
varieties. Large headed are the standard type with heads weighing from 400grams up 850 grams.
Sprouting broccoli like Purple Sprouting and Green sprouting broccoli produces numerous heads
on long stalks and Romanesco varieties produce elegantly swirled heads composed of
symmetrically pointed spirals. These large plants need plenty of growing space.
The Broccoli is grown during the cool weather conditions of winter. During the hot, wet conditions
of summer the head sizes tend to be smaller. Consult a Seed Co Agronomist on which are the
best varieties for winter and summer production. Broccoli is easier to grow than its relatives
Cauliflower and Brussels sprouts and can produce bountiful crops. Broccoli is always in high
demand on the dinner table.
Site Selection
Broccoli grows very well in medium to medium heavy clay loam soils with good water holding
capacity. It can be grown however in more sandier soils but will require more frequent irrigations
and higher fertilizer rates. PH levels should be form 5.8 – 6.5 as broccoli likes to have an
alkaline soil. Broccoli responds very well to compost and organic enriched soils. Levels round 25
– 35 tons per hectare of well- prepared compost or farmyard manure will benefit the crop and
help reduce the levels of costly fertilizers. Make sure compost and manure are well broken down
when put in the fields or root burn may occur. Chicken litter can also be used at 2 – 5 tons per
hectare but must be well composted. If ploughing, plough to a depth of 30 – 35cm which will
make sure that the soil is prepared for good root development, but make sure any old plough
pan is broken up. If ripping, then discing is preferred to prepare a fine tilth. The soil should not
be too cloddy, also not to fine. During winter months, if possible, plant on North facing slopes to
achieve better soil warmth.
Spacing
If planting on beds which are at 1.5m center to center the in row should be 30cm apart and two
rows placed on the bed 50 – 60cm apart. This should give approximately 44,000 plants per
hectare. Planting on the flat, rows can be 40cm apart and in row of 35cm apart. Higher plant
populations give smaller heads so populations should be governed by market requirements.
Broccoli | Page 6
Fertilizer
Broccoli can be susceptible to hollow stem problems caused by a Boron deficiency. If there is a
Boron deficiency in the soil, apply Solubor as a foliar spray every 2 weeks at a rate of 10grams/
1 liter of water. A balanced Basal type fertilizer of either “A” “B” or “C” should be applied before
planting. A vicon spreader can be used to broadcast the fertilizer on the flat or a ridger type
applicator to apply the fertilizer if the crop is to be grown on beds. Cupping with fertilizer cups by
hand into the pre-marked planting holes can also be done but the fertilizer must be well mixed in
the hole with the soil to prevent root burn.
Based on soil analysis results, the rates of fertilizer can be adjusted to the rate to be applied and
if compost or manure have been applied the rate can also be reduced. Fertilizer rates of 500kg
– 750kg per hectare can be applied. Broccoli requires around 400kg per hectare of A.N. split
into 3 applications from 3 weeks up to 6 weeks after transplanting. If the crop is being planted
on sandier soils and during the rainy season, extra top dressings might be required after heavy
leaching rains. Plantings going into mid-winter should be top dressed with Calcium Nitrate,
instead of A.N. as it works quicker in cool soils.
Seedlings
Planting with seedlings is the most practical method. Use a recognized nursery where strong
and healthy seedlings are produced. Transplanting good seedlings this gives a base for a more
uniform crop, which reduces costs at harvest time. Order around 10% more seedlings for your
selected plant population from the nursery to ensure best seedling selection when transplanting.
When using seedlings or speedlings as they are most commonly known, at transplanting make
sure that good plug to soil contact is made so the root system can leave the plug and quickly
enter the soil enriched with either fertilizer or compost. Plant the speedlings as soon as possible
after collecting them from the nursery to avoid the tiny hair roots from drying out. Plant the
plugs/speedlings into pre-irrigated soils in which the field has been brought up to field capacity.
After transplanting a light settling-in irrigation is required to remove tiny air pockets between the
plug and the soil.
Varieties
Selection of a variety depends if it is to be marketed as fresh or frozen. Broccoli is usually a cool
weather crop but can be grown year-round with correct variety selection, this is where your Seed
Co Agronomist can advise. Seed Co has a range of well adapted broccoli hybrid varieties including
Cigno F1, Formoso F1, Montop F1 and a summer variety called Corato F1.
Broccoli is quite frost tolerant. There are two types, heading and sprouting. Sometimes selected
varieties might produce side shoots once the main head has been harvested. Variety selection
will also have maturity dates varying from 60 – 75 days.
Broccoli | Page 7
Harvesting
Time of harvest is primarily determined by the tightness of the florets and not by the size of the
head. The head should be firm and compact, not opening and loose. If leafy points have come
through the head before harvesting it shows harvesting is late, or the plant has been under
stress. This is more common in hot summer weather conditions when head size is generally
smaller than in winter production. When harvesting cut the central stalk at a 45-degree angle, 13
– 20cm below the head. This will keep water from pooling inside the cut stem and causing rot.
Broccoli has a poor shelf life at ambient temperatures so the harvested heads will require cold
storage or to be delivered to the fresh market in the shortest possible time. Brown or Purple
beads is a physiological problem that is more prevalent under hot humid conditions.
Irrigation
Regular water applications during the dry winter months is essential. Overhead irrigation or
center pivot irrigation is the most common followed by flood and more recently drip irrigation,
which is becoming more affordable. Broccoli like cauliflower, the irrigations must be spot on or
“Hollow stem” will occur due to fluctuations of water levels in the soil. Approximately 600mm –
750mm of irrigation should be allowed to produce a quality Broccoli crop. Therefore, planning
water usage from dams, rivers and boreholes can be worked out to match hectares to be
planted. As the plant increases in size and leaf area, and the head starts to form, the amount of
water required also increases. Irrigation should be planned on a weekly basis and the soil
depletion area checked regularly to plan for the next irrigation cycle. A quick test is to take a fist
full of soil in your hand, squeeze it to form a ball then tap the “ball” with your finger, if it collapses
it is becoming dry and irrigation should be applied immediately. Preferably it should not have
gone as far as this stage. The use of an evaporation pan should help with scheduling.
Rotations
In rotation planning do not follow with Broccoli if the previous crop has been a Brassica type
i.e. Cabbage, Cauliflower or Rape. Always rotate with a legume or root crop.
Broccoli | Page 8
Broccoli Spray Guide
Stage Nursery Transplanting & Rapid Leaf Floret Floret / Head Harvest Agrochemical Rate/ha grams or EU Days to
Establishment Growth Formation Expansion ml/100 Lts MRL Harvest
Days: 0-30 30-35 40-60 50-70 65-90 90-130 water @ 500 mg/kg (phi)
Lts water/ha
Pest Problems
Actara 25 WG 500gm 5 g/1,5Lts 0.2 n/a
Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil drench or Dip drench water/100m
Actara 25 WG foliar 250gm 50 0.2 7
Cutworms Karate Zeon / Ampligo
spray
Karate Zeon 5CS 100ml/ha (cutworm) 20/40 0.1 2
Diamond back Moth 200ml/ha (bollworm)
Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim
Proclaim 05SG 250gm 50 0.01 2
General Caterpillars Ampligo 150ZC 250ml 50 1 3
Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/
Proclaim Match 050 EC 600ml 120 0.2 14
Actara Soil drench

Polo 500SC 600ml 120 0.1 3
Apron Star 2.5gm/kg seed Seed Dress At Planting
Copper Oxychloride 3kg 600 20 2

Disease Problems Bion 50 WG 30-60gm 6-12 0.02 14
Damping off & Black Leg Apron Star Seed Amistar op 325 SC 750-800 ml 150-160 1 21
Dress Revus 500ml 100 2 2
Bacterial Black Rot T Folio Gold 2Lts 400 0.2 7
Bion / Copper Oxy
Bravo 720 SC 1,4 Lts 250 5 7
Downy Mildew Revus / Ridomil / Ortiva 250 SC 500-600 ml 100-120 5 14
Folio Gold / Bravo
Dual Magnum 960 1,25 Lts 250 0.05 n/a
Club Root EC
Quintozene
Fusilade Forte 1 Lt 200 0.2 28
Alternaria, Powdery Gramaxone 2 Lts 400 0.02 na
Mildew, White Blister & Touchdown 2lts 400 0.1 na
Bravo / Ortiva / Score
Ring Spot
Weed Problems
Before planting - post
Touchdown
emergence perennials
|Broccoli Page 9
Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses Dual Magnum
Post-emergence: grasses Fusilade Forte

Cabbage
Cabbage | Page 10
Cabbage Production Guide
Site Selection
Soils can be medium to heavy with good water holding capacity. Sandy soils tend to require
more frequent irrigation cycles and require higher levels of fertilization. PH levels should be
between 5.5 and 6, so soil samples need to be taken prior to planting. Cabbages respond very
well to compost enriched soils. Levels of 20 to 30 tons per hectare of well-prepared compost will
benefit and reduce levels of fertilizer. Manure and chicken litter can also be used but must be
well broken down and composted or root burn will occur. Manure 10 to 20 tons per hectare and
chicken litter 2 to 5 tons per hectare. Ploughing should be done to a depth of 30 – 35cm making
sure the old plough pan is broken up. Ripping then discing is also a way to prepare a tilth for
planting. Final tilth must not be too cloddy or too fine. It is recommended that you dip your
seedlings in a solution of Actara to give the plants 6 weeks protection from aphids and whitefly.
Also apply a foliar spray of Bion to the seedlings to activate the plants' own defense mechanism
against bacterial and virus attack.
Spacing
Planting can be done on beds during the rainy season which helps with drainage and on the flat
during the winter period. If beds are made, they should be 1.5m center to center with 2 rows on
the top of the bed between 50 to 60cm apart and planting stations 30 to 35cm in row. Planting
on the flat rows can be 50 to 60cm apart and planting stations 35 to 40cm in row. Plant
populations should be between 33,000 – 40,000 depending on market requirements. Higher
plant populations tend to give smaller head sizes.
Fertilizers
A balanced basal Compound type fertilizer of either “A”, “B” or “C” should be applied prior to
planting. This can be done using a Vicon spreader if growing on the flat or a ridger type
applicator if planted on beds. Cupping with fertilizer cups by hand into the planting hole can also
be done but the fertilizer must be well mixed in the hole to prevent root burn. Based on soil
analysis results and soil types, rates of fertilizer can be applied ranging from 600kg – 1,000kg
per hectare. Cabbages will require around 400kg a hectare of AN split into 3 applications
between weeks 2 and 8 after transplanting. During the rainy season if the crop is planted on
lighter soils an extra top dressing might be needed after heavy leaching rains.
Cabbage | Page 11
Seedlings
Planting with seedlings is the most practical method as seedlings which are strong and healthy
at transplanting is the base for a uniform crop helping with reduced costs at harvest. Plant
around 10% more plugs per hectare of your selected plant population, this should ensure good
seedling selection. When using seedlings or speedlings as they are also known, at transplanting
make sure good plug to soil contact is made so the root system can leave the plug and quickly
enter the fertilizer enriched soil. Plant the speedlings as soon as possible after pulling them from
the trays to avoid the tiny hair roots drying out. Plant into pre irrigated soils in which the soil has
been made up to field capacity. After transplanting, a light settling-in irrigation is required to
remove air pockets between the plug and the soil. It is recommended that you dip your
seedlings in a solution of Actara to give the plants 6 weeks protection from aphids and whitefly.
Also apply a foliar spray of Bion to the seedlings to activate the plants own defense mechanism
against bacterial and virus attack.
Varieties
Selections of a variety depends on where it is to be marketed. Cabbage varieties vary in size
from 2.2kg up to 7kg per head. Varieties must be selected if to be grown in summer or winter.
Summer varieties must be “Black Rot Tolerant”; this disease comes in during hot humid weather
and can decimate a crop if not resistant to “Black Rot”. Varieties need to have a waxy layer to
deter “Diamond Back Moth” from damaging the crop. Seed Co supplies a good range of
varieties that can be planted in summer during the rains, with amazing black rot and Fusarium
yellow tolerance like the hybrids Fabiola F1, Delight and Marcanta. A good “self-wrapping”
type of cabbage is necessary to retain quality and freshness. Color of the head is important for
the market and the shape. Contact a Seed Co Agronomist for advice of which variety to plant
and at which time of the year and for market advice.
Harvesting
Cabbages are ready for harvest when the head is firm to the touch when pressed and the veins
on the outside leaves just begin to crack. Ideally about 60% - 70% of the heads should be cut at
first harvest, ensuring maximum yield potential. Depending on variety selection and time of
year, cabbages mature from about 65 – 130 days after transplanting.
Irrigation
During the dry winter months irrigation is essential. Overhead sprinkler irrigation is the most
common, followed by flood and more recently “drip” irrigation. During summer production, being
able to apply irrigation during long dry spells will ensure a good even viable crop. Approximately
600mm – 750mm of irrigation should be allowed to produce a good crop. So, planning water
usage from, dams, rivers, and boreholes can be worked out to match hectares to be planted. As
the plant increases in size and leaf area, the amount of water required also increases. Irrigation
should be planned on a weekly basis and the soil depletion area checked regularly to plan for
the next irrigation cycle. The use of an “Evaporation Pan” should help with this. On medium to
heavy clay soils irrigation should be given when approximately 25% of available water has been
used.
Cabbage | Page 12
Cabbage Spray Guide
Stage Nursery Transplanting & Rapid Leaf Growth Floret Formation Floret/Head Harvest
Establishment Expansion
Days: 0-30 30-35 40-60 50-70 65-105 105-135
Pest Problems
Soil Pests & Aphids

Actara Soil drench or Dip
Cutworms
Karate Zeon / Ampligo
Diamond Back Moth Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim
General Caterpillars Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim
Aphids
Actara Soil drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo
Disease Problems
Damping off & Black Leg
Apron Star Seed Dress
Bacterial Black Rot

Bion / Copper Oxy
Downy Mildew
Revus / Ridomil / Folio Gold / Bravo
Club Root
Quintozene
Alternaria
Amistar Top/Bravo / Ortiva / Score
Weed Problems
Touchdown
emergence annuals
Cabbage | Page 13
Pre-emergence: grasses
Dual Magnum
Post-emergence: grasses
Fusilade Forte
Nutgrass (Yellow)
Dual Magnum
Carrots
Carrots | Page 14
Carrots Production Guide
General
Carrots are a very popular vegetable as they are rich in Carotene (Pro Vitamin “A”). Carrots are
produced for the marketplace and are used as a fresh cooked vegetable, also raw in salads.
They are either sold tied in bunches with the leaves attached, in packs of sliced or diced and in
packs plain with leaves removed. The main demand in color for carrots is the orange to orange
red. Novelty colored varieties such as purple, yellow, red and white are also available from seed
houses. Carrots are also used in mixed vegetable packs in supermarkets. Carrot shape mostly
needed in the marketplace is for a cylindrical to longish tapered root. There is also a market for
conical baby carrots, longer more cylindrical fine baby carrots and to a lesser degree round
carrots. For type, color and where the carrot is to be marketed, the time of the year, ask a Seed
Co Agronomist for this information. Carrots are hardy and can stand winter cold and medium
frosts. They do best in a temperature range of 10° C to 28° C. Carrots will germinate slower in
cool soils so if plantings are sequential take this into consideration. Germination is quicker in
warm soils. In most areas of the country carrots can be grown year-round.
Soils
A sandy loam to loam soil with a deep, well drained friable structure is highly preferable. Lighter
textured soils are also used because the carrot seems to be smoother, straight, has a good
appearance and the roots are easily washed. Soils should be free from stones, no restricting
layers and not prone to capping. If organic matter is being used in the rotation, do not plant
carrots immediately after this application, better plant carrots as a second crop in the rotation as
soils with fresh humus or compost tend to make the roots hairy or forked, rough and course on
the outside and develop excessive leaf growth. The soil should have a PH value of 5.5 – 6.5 so
have the soils checked and follow the soil analysis recommendation. The soil should be deep
ploughed or deeply sub soiled to break up any root obstructing layer. After this the soil should be
harrowed once or twice to achieve a level, fine, loose, slightly firm soil surface ready for planting.
Beds should be 1.5m – 1.8m center to center with at least 1m -1.2m top section for planting on
and around 30cm – 35cm high. Ridges can also be made up 50cm or 75cm apart, 30cm – 35cm
high with one row planted on the 50cm ridge and two rows on top the 75cm ridge.
Varieties
Chose the best Seed Co varieties that give you the best yield, quality, disease tolerance
and uniformity such as the hybrid Hekla F1 and Nantindo F1.
Carrots | Page 15
Seeding
Planting is normally done with a precision planter direct drilling the seed into the grown. Seed
can be obtained coated which is preferable or uncoated. Seed can also be graded to achieve
even stands. Seed size can be between 1.25mm and 1.75mm. The advantage of the larger size
seeds is that they germinate more uniformly and produce stronger plants. With pre sized seeds
very good results can be obtained as uniform spacing can be managed with precision planters.
Seed can also be bought in weight units (Kgs or number of seeds in a packet i.e. 10,000 up to
100,000 seeds. Depth of planting needs to be between 7mm – 20mm. Green shoulders caused
by the sun can be prevented by paying attention to the depth of planting in relation to soil types
and irrigation used. If it does occur carrot shoulders must be covered with soil using a small hoe.
Care must be taken to avoid damage to the plants. This can be done at the 6 – 8 leaf stage.
Seeds need to be spaced about 2cm apart in row. Depending on the number of rows per bed a
population of 90 – 160 plants per square meter should be aimed for. On beds 1.8m bed center
to bed center this figure comes to 162- 288 plants per running meter. At 1.5m bed center to bed
center this figure will be 135 – 240 per running meter. Target populations of between 1000,000 –
1500,000 plants per hectare but can be higher depending on what the market requirement is or
to specific orders for carrots i.e. very long for processing, normal size for supermarkets or
smaller size for specialized orders. The amount of seed required for 1 hectare of large carrots in
usually between 2 – 3 kgs with baby carrots nearly 7kgs. With open-pollinated cultivars seed
losses through poor germination can be as high as 50% whilst in hybrid cultivars the germination
is usually around 90%, so seeding rates need to be calculated accordingly. Carrots that are
hand sown tend to be uneven as in some areas the density is too high, resulting in carrots
twisting around one another, being small with lower quality making saleable yields lower than
expected. Where lower densities occur, carrots are normally too big. Thinning is possible but
very labor intensive - not practical at large scale.
Fertilization
Carrots do not require high levels of Nitrogen as high levels stimulate top growth at the expense of
root growth, delays harvesting and promotes development of leaf diseases. Most of the nitrogen is
applied at planting or as a side dressing very early on if grown on sandy soils. Compound “D” at
600kg - 800kg per hectare or Compound “L” at the same rate both applied pre planting at bed
making.
Top Dressings
First top dressing starts 2 weeks after germination, with 50kg of AN or 100kg Potassium Nitrate per
hectare. Next top dressings in weeks 3 – 4 – 5 - 6 use Potassium Nitrate at 25kg a hectare, Calcium
Nitrate at 40kgs per hectare and Magnesium Sulphate at 10kg a hectare. From weeks 7 – 8 – 9 – 10
apply Magnesium Sulphate at 14kg per hectare, Potassium Sulphate at 50kg a hectare and Calcium
Sulphate at 25kgs a hectare. About 2 weeks before harvest apply Magnesium Sulphate at 14kg a
hectare and Potassium Sulphate at 50kg a hectare. High Potassium applications ensures a better
quality, crisper, better colored carrot and enhances the keeping quality.
Carrots | Page 16
Irrigation
If possible, the use of a solid set sprinkler system can be used to apply up to 4 light cycles per
day from planting to emergence, it can then be moved to the next planting. Normal sprinkler
irrigation can now take over. From planting the soil should not dry out and the top 30 – 40mm of
soil kept moist. This will provide constant moisture for rapid and uniform germination. In hot
weather it helps to cool the soil, also prevents fertilizer accumulation due to evaporation in the
topsoil layer. From emergence to a root diameter up to 7mm watering is progressively reduced
and smaller light irrigations giving way to larger less frequent amounts. This is to induce deeper
rooting. Monitor irrigations by reducing amounts until the crop is close to but not wilting. Make
sure irrigations always place moisture beyond the growing root to around 45cm soil depth. At
this stage stressing is now finished as the crop grows from 7mm diameter to harvest, enough
irrigation is required to keep the entire soil profile wet. Soil moisture should be maintained at
above 50% of available moisture after stressing. Generally, 25mm of irrigation per week should
be adequate but in warmer to hot weather go up to 50mm. Check the evaporation pan figures.
Harvesting
Large size carrots require around 110 – 130 days to mature, and slightly longer during the
colder months. Carrots are harvested when they obtain the required size, are still tender and
succulent before they get woody and fibrous. Normally the market requires a size of around
20mm to 30mm diameter.
Harvesting can be done mechanically or by hand. Mechanically, a blade is drawn under the bed
below the carrot roots. Once loose they are pulled from the soil by hand. Carrots required
without the leaves for the market, the leaves are broken off and left in the field. Those required
for bunching the leaves are left on and the carrots put into crates. Once the carrots are in the
crates, they are taken in for washing and grading. Carrots lifted by hand with a fork require very
careful placement or otherwise too many carrots will be damaged by the spikes of the fork. The
soil should be moist but not over wet at pulling to help reduce soil stick. Last irrigation should be
timed to around a week before intended date of lifting. Do not lift carrots that have been under
water stress or post-harvest keeping quality will be reduced. At harvest handle carefully as
wounds can lead to bacterial infections and rot. Do not tip carrots from excess heights onto
other carrots on the shed floor or in crates as damage will occur. Washing can be done in a
bath, but regular changing of water must be done to avoid soil particles scratching the skin.
Carrots can also be put in a concrete mixer type drum with brushes instead of metal bars and
slow revolving to wash carrots. If carrots have to be stored keep the temperature at 2°C to 3°C
with a R.H. of 90% to 95% in the refrigeration room. Carrots grown in light soils do not store as
well as those grown in heavier soils.
Yields from 20tons - 40tons per hectare are now common and with Hybrid varieties, yields
can get up to 60 tons or more per hectare. These yields are being achieved by successful
farmers who pay attention to detail. Baby or small carrots will generally be half the yield of that
for large carrots.
Carrots | Page 17
Carrots | Page 18
Carrots Spray Guide

Stage Pre-Plant Sowing & Seedling Establishment Rapid Leaf Growth Root Thickening Mature
Emergence & Root
Days: -7 0-14 14-28 21-56 35-70 75-120
Pest Problems
Nematodes Solvigo
Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil drench
Cutworms Karate Zoom / Ampligo
Aphids
Actara / Proclaim / Polo
Disease Problems
Damping off
Apron Star Seed Dress Revus / Ridomil Gold MZ / Folio Gold
Cavity Spot
Alternaria
Ortiva / Score/Amistar Top
Powdery Mildew
Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Touchdown
emergence annuals
Dual Magnum
Fusllade Forte
Codal Gold
& broadleaf
Cauliflower
Cauliflower | Page 19
Cauliflower Production Guide
Site Selection
Soils can be medium to heavy clay loam with good water holding capacity. Sandy soils tend to
require more frequent irrigation cycles and require higher levels of fertilization. PH levels should
be between 5.5 and 6, closer to 6 on sandy soils. It is best to take soil samples and have them
checked prior to planting. Cauliflower responds very well to compost enriched soils. Levels of 20
to 30 tons of well-prepared compost will benefit the crop and reduce the levels of fertilizer.
Manure and chicken litter can also be used but must be well broken down and composted or
root burn will occur. Manure 10 to 20 tons per hectare and chicken litter 2 to 5 tons per hectare.
Ploughing should be done to a depth of 30 to 35cm deep making sure to break down the old
plough pan. Ripping then discing is also a good way to prepare the tilth for planting. Not too
cloddy or too fine tilth is necessary. During winter months if possible, plant on north facing
slopes to achieve better soil warmth.
Spacing
Planting can be done on beds during the rainy season which helps with drainage and on the flat
during the winter period. If beds are made, they should be 1.5m center to center with 2 rows on
the top of the bed, 60cm apart and 40cm in row. Planting on the flat rows can be 60cm apart
and planting stations 40cm in row. Plant populations should be between 33,000 – 40,000
depending on market requirements. Higher plant populations tend to give smaller curd sizes.
Fertilizers
A balanced basal Compound type fertilizer of either “A”, “B” or “C” should be applied prior to
planting. This can be done using a Vicon spreader if growing on the flat or a ridger type
applicator if planted on beds. Cupping with fertilizer cups by hand into the planting hole can also
be done but the fertilizer must be well mixed in the hole to prevent root burn. On soil analysis
results and soil types, rates of fertilizer can be applied ranging from 500kg – 750kg per hectare.
Cauliflowers will require around 400kg a hectare of AN split into 3 applications between weeks 2
and 6 after transplanting. During the rainy season if the crop is planted on lighter soils an extra
top dressing might be needed after heavy leaching rains. Cauliflower plantings going into winter
should be top dressed with Calcium Nitrate, instead of AN as it is quicker acting in cool soils.
Cauliflower is susceptible to Boron deficiency which causes “Hollow Stem” so be vigilant
Seedlings
Planting with seedlings is the most practical method. Use a recognized Nursery where strong
and healthy seedlings are raised. At transplanting good seedlings give a base for a uniform crop
helping with reduced costs at harvest. Plant around 10% more plugs per hectare of your
selected plant population, this should ensure good seedling selection. When using seedlings or
speedlings as they are also known, at transplanting make sure good plug to soil contact is made
so the root system can leave the plug and quickly enter the fertilizer enriched soil. Plant the
Speedings as soon as possible after pulling them from the trays to avoid the tiny hair roots
drying out. Plant into pre irrigated soils in which the soil has been made up to field capacity.
After transplanting a light settling in irrigation is required to remove air pockets between the plug
and the soil. It is recommended that you dip your seedlings in a solution of Actara to give the
plants 6 weeks protection from aphids and whitefly. Also apply a foliar spray of Bion to the
seedlings to activate the plants own defense mechanism against bacterial and virus attack.
Varieties
Selection of a variety depends on where it is to be marketed. Cauliflower is mostly a cool
weather crop. Varieties vary in Curd size from 600grams up to 1kilo. Varieties must be selected
for summer or winter production. Be careful in summer as cauliflower is susceptible to “Black
Rot”. Varieties need to have a waxy leaf to deter Diamond Back Moth from destroying the crop.
A good self-wrapping type cauliflower is necessary such as hybrids Twister F1 and Nevada F1
and Spacestar F1 supplied by Seed Co, which saves on labor costs for tying the leaves over
the head to prevent discoloration. Cauliflower is also frost tolerant. Contact a Seed Co
Agronomist for advice on which variety you need for different times of the year. The hybrid
Twister, with an excellent head wrapping can be grown throughout the year.
Harvesting
Cauliflower heads are ready for harvest when the curds start to expose themselves through the
natural leaf wrapping, so careful monitoring of head size is important. Exposed heads will turn
yellow to cream or brown, making them unsalable. Harvest period is normally 10 – 14 days but
growers should aim to do as few cuts as possible, which saves on labor. Depending on variety
selection and season, Cauliflowers take 75 – 90 days to mature after transplanting. Once the
heads are cut cooling down in field shelters with wet walls or refrigeration is advised. Quick
transport to market is a must. Cauliflower heads bruise easily so be careful and pack properly.
Irrigation
During the dry winter months irrigation is essential. Overhead sprinkler irrigation is the most
common, followed by flood and more recently “drip” irrigation. If growing Cauliflower during
summer, irrigation must be spot on or “Hollow Stem” will occur due to fluctuations of water in
the soil. Approximately 600mm – 750mm of irrigation should be allowed for to produce a good
crop of cauliflower. So, planning water usage from, dams, rivers, and boreholes can be worked
out to match hectares to be planted. As the plant increases in size and leaf area, and the start
of the “Curd” forming, the amount of water required also increases. Irrigation should be planned
on a weekly basis and the soil depletion area checked regularly to plan for the next irrigation
cycle. The use of an “Evaporation Pan” should help with this. On medium to heavy clay soils,
irrigation should be given when approximately 25% of available water has been used. Water
stress can cause the self-wrapping protection to fail exposing the “Curd” to sunlight turning it
cream or yellow also making it nonmarketable
Rotations
Never plant a Cauliflower crop following another Brassica crop i.e. Cabbage, Broccoli or Rape.
Rotate with a legume or root crop.
Cauliflower Spray Guide
Stage Nursery Transplanting & Rapid Leaf Growth Floret Formation Floret / Head Harvest
Establishment Expansion
Days: 0-30 30-35 40-60 50-70 65-105 80-155
Pest Problems
Soil Pests & Aphid

Actara Soil drench or Dip
Cutworms Karate Zeon / Ampligo
Diamond back Moth Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim
General Caterpillars Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim
Aphids Actara Soil drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo
Disease Problems
Damping off & Black Leg Apron Star Seed Dress
Bacterial Black Rot Bion / Copper Oxy
Downy Mildew Revus / Ridomil / Folio Gold / Bravo
Club Root Quintozene
Alternaria
Bravo / Ortiva / Score/Amistar Top
Weed Problems
Before planting - post Touchdown
|Cauliflo
wer
Post-emergence: grasses Fusilade Forte
emergence annuals
Page 23
Nutgrass (Yellow) Dual Magnum

Cucumber
Cucumber | Page 24
Cucumber Production Guide
General
Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) is a member of the Cucurbitaceal family native to Africa.
Cucumber is an annual deep-rooted crop with plenty of tendrils and has hairy leaves. Optimum
growing temperatures are between 20° C to 25° C. At temperatures below 16°C growth slows
down and cucumbers are frost sensitive. Most cultivars are monaecious, they have separate
male and female flowers on the same plant. They are not parthenocarpic like greenhouse
cucumbers which do not require pollination of flowers for fruit production. As monaecious
cucumbers are dependent on bees for pollination it is recommended that two to three hives per
hectare are placed near the field. Up to 8 bee visits per flower is required to ensure pollination
for fruit formation.
Varieties
Consult your Seed Co Agronomist for best varieties to grow. For greenhouse production, the
hybrid Dreamliner F1, supplied by Seed Co produce vigorous plants that give high yields. For
open yield production, Seed Co supplies hybrids Olympian F1 and Stonewall F1 with excellent
disease tolerance and adaptability.
Spacing
Spacing: - Rows can be 1.2m - 1.8m apart on the flat and 50cm – 1m apart in row, depending
on what plant population is needed and varieties selected. Plastic mulch can be applied where
drip irrigation is used. Plastic mulch helps control weeds, improves the use of water and
fertilizer. It also reduces incidents of fruit rot where the fruits are not in contact with the soil. If
cucumbers are to be grown on beds a spacing of 1.2m – 1.8m bed center to bed center, then 2
rows can be put on the top of the beds. The rows can be 40cm apart, and in row of 50cm –
80cm apart. Cucumbers can be direct seeded in the ground or seedlings grown in a nursery for
transplanting. If direct seeding is used, then the soil temperature must not be below 13°C or
poor uneven germination will take place. With direct seeding the depth of the seed should be 20
mm – 28mm deep. Speedlings need to be covered when transplanted up to the top of the plug.
Plant populations can vary from 14,000 per hectare up to 40,000 per hectare.
Cucumber | Page 25
Trellising
Cucumbers can be trellised in order to achieve better yields with better quality of the fruits. If
trellising is used it should be 1.6m up to 1.8m in height. Strong poles are spaced every 4m
apart. A twelve-gauge wire is placed about 12cm off the soil level and an 8-gauge wire is pulled
on the top. Twine or netting can be strung between the wires so plants can be trained up.
Planning for rotation purposes, if the trellising is used say for a tomato crop then the cucumber
crop can follow the tomato crop using the same trellis system saving on double work. Training
needs to be done on a weekly basis to ensure all the vines are tied onto the netting or twine.
Pinch out the side shoots from the bottom up to around 50cm, after this leave them to grow out.
Advantages of trellised cucumbers are: -

1) Increased picking efficiency.
2) Better yields.
3) Straight fruits
4) Uniform color, not like fruits grown on the soil which have a white/yellow area where it has
been lying on the soil surface.
5) Reduces fruit loss to soil diseases.
6) Better pest management.
Disadvantages: -
1) Extra cost of trellising materials.
2) Extra labor costs to erect, dismantle and training of the vines.
3) Plants are prone to wind damage therefore wind breaks need to be put in, in wind prone
areas by putting up 50% shade cloth of 2m height up wind of the crop.
Field preparation
Ploughing or sub soiling needs to be done to a depth to break up a hard pan if present in the
soil. The PH should be between 5.5 – 6.0. Cucumbers are adapted to a wide variety of soil
types that have good drainage and adequate water holding capacity. Soil should be harrowed
to a reasonable tilth after ploughing or sub soiling so direct seeding can have good soil to seed
contact.
Cucumber | Page 26
Fertilization
Rates can be based on soil sample analysis results.
Basal: - Compound “D” at 600kgs – 750kgs per hectare can be used.
Top dressing: - Apply first application two weeks after germination or transplanting of 50kg per
hectare AN. Then every two weeks until first fruit set, then add 35kgs per hectare Muriate of
Potash and every two weeks from then on both the AN and Muriate of Potash. Potassium helps
to produce a deep green color to the fruit as well as firm flesh and helps to produce good yields.
Manure or Compost applications improve quality and yields. Up to 20tons per hectare is
recommended, as this helps to improve soil texture and improves root growth.
Irrigation
Cucumbers need a constant water supply to enable a good yield of quality fruits. Generally, soils
must not dry out at planting or transplanting. Soil types will determine the frequency and
amount. From flowering to fruit development depending on the weather, amounts should be
supplied by checking on evaporation pan figures. Roughly 50 mm irrigation is required per
week. Normally drip irrigation is recommended for cucumbers.
Maturity
Generally, first harvest from planting takes 45 – 55 days. Depending on disease and pest
control cucumbers can normally carry on producing for 14 weeks. At harvest the fruit must have
reached full diameter and while the seeds inside are still soft and small. Normally the average
length is between 15cm – 20cm and a diameter 4cm – 7cm. From pollination to harvest is
normally 15 – 18 days. Cucumber plants set fruits and develop over a long period of time,
therefore marketable fruits extend over a period.
Harvesting
Cucumbers are handpicked. When picking, the fruits should be clipped or snapped near the
stem and not pulled off or damage to the vine will occur. Once picked place gently in the picking
crate and keep cool and covered with a damp cloth. Once transported to the pack shed, keep
the fruits cooled down to 10°C for best shelf life. Remove any oversize fruits left on the vine by
mistake from the previous harvest as they will drain the plant of all nutrients and can cause yield
loss. Damaged or decaying fruit should also be removed. If cucumbers have to be stored the
average shelf life is about 10 – 14 days at a temperature of between 10° C – 13° C, and 90% to
95% RH.
Cucumber | Page 27
Cucumber | Page 28
Cucumber Spray Guide

Stage Pre-Plant Sowing & Seedling & Vegetation Early Flowers Early Fruits Fruiting &
Emergence Picking
Days: -7 0-10 10-28 28-35 35-42 45-60
Pest Problems
Nermaiodes
Solvigo
Soil Pests Actara Soil Drench
Cutworms Karate Zeon
Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec
Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo
Aphids &Whitefly
Actara / Ampligo / Polo
Pumkin Fly
Lebaycid
Disease Problems
Damping off
Bacterial Complex
Amistar Top/Score
Powdery Mildew
Reus/Ridomil/Folio Gold
Anthracnose
Amistar Top/Bravo
Virus Complex
Actara Soil drench
Touchdown
emergence annuals
Dual Magnum
Field Tomato
Field Tomato | Page 29

Field Tomato Production Guide
General
Field Tomatoes are a very important crop in the country sold mainly as fresh tomatoes, used in
salads or used as an ingredient in soups, stews, sauces and various other dishes. Some
production is grown and sold for processing or pulping under contract. There are several varieties
available for specific markets or uses so contact a Seedco Agronomist for the best cultivar for the
purpose intended for example, Fresh Market Tomato or “Jam” or Processing type. Seed Co has
the country's best hybrid processing tomato varieties including Pietrarossa F1 and HTX 14 and
fresh market tomatoes including Daisy F1, Chibli F1 and Nash F1. Tomatoes are a warm
season mainly summer crop but can be grown in certain low veld areas in winter that are frost
free. A few degrees above freezing will result in damage to both plant and fruits. Optimum
temperature range is between 20° C to 28° C. Temperatures below 12° C or above 35° C can
result in flower shed and big losses of yield. Continuous moist or rainy weather favors the rapid
increase in leaf diseases and makes control difficult. For best results the crop should be finishing
before the onset of winter though however at this time and mid-winter prices are highest as there
is always a shortage.
Determinate type varieties are normally shorter plants than indeterminate varieties which can
result in big savings on trellising and spraying costs. They also normally produce a concentrated
yield over a shorter space of time, however, could be a disadvantage if it comes in during a price
drop so plan carefully. The final size of the plants is dependent on climatic and cultural conditions
as well as the specific cultivar selected. Processing cultivars possess high solid content required
for such use. Their keeping quality is normally better than normal field tomato types.
Soils
Tomatoes like growing in deep, fertile, humus rich, good draining soils. Soil types can vary from
sandy loam to clay loam with a clay content of between 15% to 35%. Sandy soils can also be
used provided soil moisture content can be maintained at the desired level. The roots can
penetrate to a depth of over 2 meters, but the greatest root concentration is in the top 600mm of
soil. Deep ploughing or sub soiling must be done to ensure any old plough pan is broken up, so
roots are free to go down deep. A PH of 5.0 – 5.8 is ideal. Tomatoes must also be grown in a
rotation of one crop every three or four years to reduce nematodes and disease problems and
should not follow potatoes, peppers or tobacco which belong to the same family. Tomatoes will
do very well after a green manure crop which has been ploughed in and well-rotted
down.

Fertilizer
Depending on soil analysis results the following is a general guide.
Basal: -
750kg per hectare up to 1,000kg per hectare of Compound “C” or “B”
Top dressings -:
One week after transplanting 25kg/hect Mono Ammonium Phosphate (M.A.P).
Second week after transplanting 50kg/hect AN
Third week after transplanting 50kg/hect AN
Fourth week onwards 50kg/hect AN plus 50kg/hect Sulphate of Potash (S.O.P.
Stop all fertilization two weeks prior to final harvest.
Micronutrients are also necessary to obtain top yields. These are Calcium (Ca,
Magnesium (Mg, Sulphur (S, Boron (B, Iron (Fe, Copper (Cu, Zinc (Zn,
Manganese (Mn and Molybdenum (Mo. These can be obtained in micronutrient mixes like
Nutrifoil, Liberal, BMX, Omniboost etc. These should be applied every two weeks or as per the
instructions on the label.
Calcium is very important to the crop as a shortage of Calcium will result in Blossom End Rot.
This can be sprayed on using Calcium Nitrate from first flower on a weekly basis at a rate of
10g/ 1lt of water using 250l to 300l water per hectare.
Irrigation
Best results have been achieved using drip irrigation as water can be applied as often as
required when using tensiometers in the soil which measures the soil moisture content. Also, no
foliage gets wet thus minimizing leaf diseases. Overhead sprinkler irrigation can be used where
there is no rainfall in the dryer months up to the fruiting stage. Sprinkler irrigation can
dramatically increase the incidents of various diseases in medium rainfall or misty areas. Any
method of irrigation which does not wet the foliage is the preferred method. Furrow irrigation or
flood irrigation is also good but uses high volumes of water. Amounts of irrigation needed
depends on soil type and growing conditions like temperature and humidity. Normally around
400mm to 600mm is required. Lateral roots can spread up to one meter or more, so soil
moisture needs to increase with plant growth. During the first month when the plants are
relatively small, and the roots may not have spread this far so keep the water applied to the
planting area. After one month increase irrigation as the plant and its root system start to
develop.
Planting
Propagated speedlings are the preferred method of establishing the crop. Good, strong, healthy
well rooted seedlings will give the best results so get speedlings done professionally in a
nursery. Plant speedlings into moist soil and firm the soil around the plug to achieve good soil to
plug contact so roots can develop quickly into the fertilizer enriched soil. Irrigate as soon as
possible after transplanting to settle in the seedling.
Spacing
Rows generally 1.2m- 1.8m apart
I n row spacing can vary between 40cm – 50cm apart
Population can be from 16,000 – 22,000 plants per hectare.
Trellising
For table tomatoes plants are invariably trellised. This is because the incidents of various
diseases, pests and sun burn is generally lower than crops that are not trellised. Trellised crops
have shown a significant advantage in higher marketable yield, better quality and makes
harvesting easier. The newer processing cultivars are now generally shorter vined, have a more
concentrated harvest and have fruits with thicker and tougher skins, which don’t damage easily,
are therefore are seldom trellised. Poles of between 50mm – 70mm in diameter are dug into a
depth of +/- 600mm and spaced every 3m apart leaving 1.4m – 1.8m above ground. The end
poles should be stronger and well anchored to prevent them being pulled over by the weight of
the crop. Wires are put in early to avoid damage to the small plants while they are getting
established. Two wires of between 14gg – 16gg are pulled and attached to either side of the
poles so the crop is between the wires. Wires can be placed up the poles at intervals of 300mm
– 400mm. The number of pairs of wires will depend on the growth, height and vigor of the
cultivar being grown. All plant growth is trained to grow between the two wires. Some growers
do a single stake method where a stake is driven in next to the plant and as it grows up the plant
tied at intervals to the stake.
Pruning
This is not recommended for outdoor growing of tomatoes. It is labor intensive and often
increases the incidents of disease like Botrytis, Pseudomonas and Phytophtora which enter the
scar wounds. The incidences of virus diseases and other disorders is also possible
Harvesting
Avoid picking green fruits as these will ripen with poor quality and affect the marketing of the
crop. Fruits should be harvested when a pink color first shows at the blossom end. At this stage
the tomato is mature and already red inside. Indicators are as follows: -
a) Pick when cream colored streaks are noticed at the blossom end. At this stage fruits
will last about a week after picking.
b) If the color is dark pink going red at the blossom end it will have a shelf life of about 4
days.
c) When the tomato is pink it is 1 or 2 days to full ripe.
d) Full ripe nice red color but still firm, need to sell immediately.

Reap into boxes that hold +/- 5.5kgs. Ripe tomatoes can be stored for about 7 days at 5° C – 10
°C with a RH of 80% - 85%. Tomatoes are sensitive to chilling. Temperature management is
crucial to maintaining quality. Fruits must be graded to uniform size and maturity in the packing
box. Mixing sizes and maturity can result in rejection or price drop at the marketplace. Fruits
need to be free from any blemishes e.g. insect, disease or mechanical damage. Remove all
diseased and damaged fruits from the plant as soon as they are seen. Remove them totally
from the field, do not discard in the field on the ground near the plants. To help with picking use
shorter rows or provide pathways to get across long fields to the waiting truck or trailer.

Field Tomato Spray Guide
Stage Nursery Transplanting Vegetative First Flowers First Fruits Fruiting
Days: 0-35 28-36 30-60 60-65 65-70 70-125
Pest Problems
Nematodes
Solvigo
Soil Pests & Aphids

Actara Soil Drench / Solvigo
Cutworms
Karate Zeon
Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec
Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo / Curacron
Fruitworm & Caterpillars

Ampligo / Matish / Karate Zeon / Proclaim
Aphids & Whitefly

Actara Soil Drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Chess
Disease Problems
Damping off Apron Star Seed Dress
Bacterial Complex Bion / Copper Oxychloride
Early Blight Copper Oxychloride / Bravo / Amistar Top
Late Blight Folio Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold
Leaf spots; Powdery

Amistar Top
Mildew
Virus Complex Actara Soil Drench / Dip
Touchdown
emergence annuals
Dual Magnum
Fusllade Forte
Codal Gold
& broadleaf
Codal Gold
& broadleaf
Green Bean
Green Bean | Page 35

Green Bean Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution
General Description
French Beans which may otherwise be known as ne or dwarf beans are grown year round in
frost free areas. Yields are maximized when temperatures lie between 15 - 28C and some
pollination problems may occur if temperatures fall to 4C or go above 35C.
Soils
Deep, well drained soils are preferred with an ideal pH of 5,5 to 6,5 (CaC12. All soils must be
analyzed before planting, so that corrective measures may be taken before a problem becomes
noticeable.
Fertilization
As a general guide, apply 800 – 1000kg/ha Compound A, B, C on lighter soils and 400 – 500kgs/
ha on heavier soils. The amount of top dressing used, and frequency of application varies
depending on soil type. On sandy soils up to 300kgs/ha. AN can be applied split on a weekly
basis starting from week 3 or 4 and should continue well into flowering and pickling. Less AN
would be required on heavier soils and the time between applications may be longer. Additional
potash may be required and 75 – 100kgs per ha. MOP or SOP in total should be applied split
between flower bud stage and early production.
French beans are sensitive to several micronutrient deficiencies particularly on anthill areas in
the lands. Application of foliar sprays containing zinc and iron as well as other elements will be
of some benefit to the crop.
Varieties
Rust resistant varieties like the fine beans Moonstone, Lomami, and Salima, supplied by
Seed Co are the order of the day now.
Seed may either be mechanically, or hand sown to achieve a population of 300,000plants per hectare.
The approximate weight of seed will vary according to variety but is normally in region of 60-65kgs/ha.
Green beans yield 6 tons to 12 tons per hectare, but yields can be even high if properly managed.
Sow seed to a depth of 25mm into moist pre-irrigated soil. Always plant upwind when a series of
planting are to be in the same field so that the older plantings are downwind of emerging crop.
This will reduce pest and disease pressure especially thrips, Heliothis and rust.

Irrigation
It is preferable to pre-irrigate to field capacity prior to planting. As the seedlings are emerging a
light irrigation will help them to push through. Once all plants are through the ground
approximately two weeks after planting, it is advisable to withhold irrigation to enable the plants
to root well and reduce the chances of damping off. After this initial dry period do not allow soil
to dry out as this will cause stress to the plants and stimulate premature flowering. Over
watering will encourage disease development. There are no hard and fast rules about timing
and quantity of irrigation, which are dependent on soil type, prevailing climatic conditions and
crop maturity. As a rule of thumb 6000m3 is required to see one hectare through to completion
during the hottest time of the year.
Any water stress (too much or too little) during flowering and pod set will cause flower abortion
to occur as well as bent cured beans.
Pests and Diseases

Before using any chemicals please check that it is on the Freshtex Declared Pesticide List and
read the label for the manufacturer’s instructions.

Green Bean Spray Guide

Stage Pre-Plant Planting to Vegetative First Flowers Pod Development Peak Picking
Emergence & First Picking
Days: -7 0-10 10-40 30-40 40-60 +65
Pest Problems
Bean Stem Maggot

Beetles
Karate Zeon
Cutworms
Karate Zeon
Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec
Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo
Podworm & Caterpillars

Aphids & Whitefly

Actara / Ampligo / Polo
Disease Problems
Seed/Soil Disease
Ap on rStar Seed Dress
Bacterial Complex Amistar Top / Score
Anthracnose Bravo / Amistar Top
Rust Amistar Top/Bravo / Copper Oxy
Weed Problems Below are off-lab suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage
Touchdown
emergence ann uals
Pre-eme rgence: grasses
Dual Magnum
Post-emer gence: grasses

Fusilade Forte
Pre-emer gence: grasses + Bateleur Gold

Broadleaf
Post-emergence:
Servian
Nutgrass
Lettuce
Lettuce | Page 39
Lettuce Production Guide
Soils
Lettuce is tolerant of soil type but do well on light sand to sandy loams. As Lettuce has a very
shallow root system it can be grown on relatively shallow soils, provided a good irrigation
system is in place so favorable soil moisture can be maintained. Due to the shallow root system
of Lettuce, most of the roots only go to a depth of 300mm. Therefore, nutrient and water
requirements need to be concentrated in this small volume of soil. If planting in soils that stain
i.e. red soils, a mulch between the soil and the bottom leaves will keep the soil stain from
spoiling the heads and making them difficult to sell. Washing off soil stain causes bacterial rot
so is not recommended. Soil PH should be between 5.5 - 6.
General
As lettuce is normally a cool weather crop demand for it in the cooler months is quite low.
Consumer’s main demand for lettuce is during the hot summer months when salads are very
desirable. Lettuce heads produced in summer receive a higher price than those grown in the
cooler months. Summer production of Lettuce can be done; however, some precautions need to
be addressed to safeguard the viability of the crop. Varieties need to be chosen carefully for the
cool winter production and hot humid summer production. Summer varieties need to have a
good tolerance to bolting and good disease resistance. Most varieties perform equally well in
the cooler months so ask to advise of a Seed Co Agronomist who will give you the best variety
for your planting program. The most favorable temperature for production is a daily mean of
between 15° C and 18° C. Lettuce, however, will perform in a range of 17° C – 27 °C during the
day and 2° C to 12° C night temperatures, with careful variety selection.
Cultural Practices
For best results soils need to be prepared in advance and beds made up for summer
production. Raised beds of at least 20cm – 30cm high need to be made to help drainage with
excess rainfall. Planting on the flat in winter is acceptable. Drip irrigation is the preferred method
to irrigate lettuce as there is no soil splash and soiling of the heads. If overhead irrigation is to
be used a smaller nozzle size should be fitted to the sprinkler head to avoid big droplets hitting
the soil surface and splashing the heads with soil particles. As soil moisture is an important
factor in lettuce production the level of available water in the root zone should not get below
50% holding capacity before the next cycle. Careful planning of irrigation is necessary regarding
soil types and the time of year. Amounts of water to be applied vary from 18mm on sandy soils
to 50mm on heavy soils per cycle. Lettuce needs lighter and more frequent irrigations more so
than many other crops. Frequent irrigations however, especially in summer production favor
conditions for development of several diseases.
Lettuce | Page 40
Planting
The use of quality speedlings is highly recommended to achieve a good uniform crop. For
planning purposes seedlings normally take about 5 weeks in the nursery in the winter months to
just under 4 weeks in the warmer months. Seedlings must be well hardened before planting
during the summer as they will be subjected to high temperatures in the field after transplanting.
Mulching of summer production is recommended. After transplanting the seedling, a mulch
using wheat straw, grass or saw dust is advisable. This will assist in lowering the soil
temperature, cooling the crop, conserving moisture and preventing soil splash.
Spacing
During summer because of heavy rainfall which cannot be controlled planting on raised beds is
recommended. These beds can be made with 1.5m – 1.8m bed center to bed center. Three
rows marked out on the top of the bed at 30cm apart with seedlings placed 25cm in row, giving
round 80,000 plants per hectare. For larger size heads distance in row can be increased to
30cm giving a lower plant population in order to achieve a larger head size. On the flat, rows
can be between 35cm – 45cm apart and in row spacing between 25cm – 35cm. This gives a
plant population of about 60,000 to 100,000 plants per hectare. Head size for specific large
head orders use the wider spacing.
Fertilization
Get a soil analysis done before planting. A general recommendation is to use a basal dressing
of Compound “B” at a rate of 500 – 600kg per hectare applied pre-planting. If the fertilizer is
cupped in by hand to a planting hole for a seedling, make sure the fertilizer is well mixed in the
hole with the soil to prevent root burn of the seedling.
Harvesting
This takes place about 8 – 10 weeks after transplanting. A visual inspection is done to check if
the heads have reached the desired firmness and size. Loose leaf or frilly lettuce types are
harvested when the leaves have grown to a reasonable size. Using a long blade knife cut the
stalk just above the level of the soil and retain most of the wrapper leaves. Harvest when the
plants have dried out and in the cool of the early morning before the day temperature gets too
hot and the plants begin to wilt. Do not harvest the heads just after rain or irrigation as this
makes the leaves crisp and brittle because they will have absorbed a lot of water and the leaves
will break easily. After cutting, damaged, diseased and discolored leaves can be removed, and
the cut end tidied up before placing in the crate. Do not over pack the crates and if possible, not
to stack more than 2 high. Move heads quickly once harvested into a field shelter with wet walls
to prevent dehydration before transport to the packing area. Once at the pack shed storage
under refrigeration with a temperature of 0°C and a R.H. of 95% lettuce heads can be stored for
up to 3 weeks if there is a glut in the market. However quicker
Lettuce | Page 41
movement to market is preferable. If there is no refrigeration the crop will have to be moved to
market the same day it is cut. Lettuce heads can weigh from 500g to over 1.2kg depending on
the time of the year.
Yields can be from 25 – 30 tons per hectare. If properly grown lettuce heads should be firm,
fresh, clean and crisp and not have a bitter taste.
Transport
During transport to market if the heads are being delivered in an open vehicle it is very
important to cover the lettuce heads with a damp cloth type cover to prevent wind burn and
dehydration. If the delivery vehicle has an insulated covered back be sure that the temperature
inside does not go too high as this can cause dehydration and wilting.
Lettuce | Page 42
Lettuce Spray Guide
Stage Nursery Transplanting Vegetative
Days: 0-42 25-42 40-70
Pest Problems
Nematodes Solvigo
Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil drench / Solvigo
Leafminers Dynamec / Trigard
Snails & Slugs

Mesurol snail pellets
Thrips Actara / Ampligo
Disease Problems
Downy mildew Revus / Ridomil Gold MZ
Sclerotinia Drop Ortiva/ Amistar Top
Viru s complex Actara Soil Drench / Dip
abe sugges
Before planting - post Touchdown u
Lettuce | Page 43
emergence annuals
Gramoxone ti/ Touchdown
Dual Magnum
Okra
Okra | Page 44
Okra Production Guide
General
Okra is a warm season mainly summer crop. Optimum temperature range is between 20° C to
28° C. Temperatures below 12° C or above 35° C can result in flower shed and big losses of
yield. Continuous moist or rainy weather favors the rapid increase in leaf diseases and makes
control difficult.
Okra is prone to nematodes, hence, should not follow crops prone to nematode attack including
tomatoes and butternuts. Preferably, okra can follow grassy crops like baby- or sweet corn that
do not share common pest and diseases.
Soils
Okra grows well in deep, fertile, well-draining soils. Soil types can vary from sandy loam to clay
loam with a clay content of between 15% to 35%. Okra does not do well in very light sandy soils
or too heavy clays that with poor drainage and prone to hardpan formation. Deep ploughing or
sub soiling must be done to ensure any old plough pan is broken up, so roots are free to go
down deep. A PH of 5.8 – 6.5 is ideal. Okra will do very well after a green manure crop which
has been ploughed in and well-rotted down or application of 25 000kg to 30 000kg of manure per
hectare.
Okra | Page 45
Fertilizer
Depending on soil analysis results, the following is a general guide.
Add basal dressing of 750kg to 900kg per hectare of Compound “D”. Top dress with 200 kg of
AN split into 4 applications at weeks 2, 4, 6 and 8. Okra responds very well to composite
manure applied at a rate of 40 000 kg per ha.
Irrigation
Any method of irrigation is suitable for okra production, though irrigation which does not wet the
foliage is the preferred method to reduce disease pressure. Furrow irrigation or flood irrigation is
also good but uses high volumes of water. Sprinkler irrigation can dramatically increase the
incidents of various diseases in medium rainfall or misty areas. Amount of irrigation needed
depend on soil type and growing conditions like temperature and humidity. Normally around
500mm to 700mm is required. Lateral roots can spread up to one meter or more, so soil
moisture needs to increase with plant growth. Increase irrigation as the plant and its root system
start developing.
Planting
Direct sowing at a depth of 0.5cm to 1cm or seedlings can be used for establishing the crop.
Germination occurs within 7 to 15 days depending on soil temperatures. Good, strong, healthy
well rooted seedlings will give the best results. Plant seedlings into moist soil and firm the soil
around the plug to achieve good soil to plug contact so that roots can develop quickly into the
fertilizer enriched soil. Irrigate as soon as possible after transplanting to settle in the seedling.
Okra | Page 46
Spacing
Space between rows should be generally 70cm-80cm.
In-row spacing should be 40cm – 50cm depending on variety.
Plant population will be 25,000 – 35,000 plants per hectare.
Harvesting
Harvest pods when they are still tender once they reach the preferred market size, which is
ideally 5 to 10 cm long before they become fibrous. Harvesting normally starts from 60 to 120
days after transplanting depending on the variety. Fresh tender and undamaged pods can be
picked using a knife 3 to 4 times a week depending on market size requirements. If you are
targeting the fancy types, harvesting can be done on daily basis. Any delayed picking will cause
a direct loss of yield and quality. Harvested pods should be sent to the fresh market under
shade or refrigerated as soon as possible to avoid wilting and market should be readily available
to avoid loss of produce.
Yields can range from 5 to 15 tons per hectare.
Okra | Page 47
Okra Spray Guide
Okra | Page 48
Days: 0-35 28-36 30-60 60-65 65-70 70-125
Pest Problems
Nematodes
Solvigo
Soil Pests & Aphids

Cutworms
Karate Zeon
Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec
Red Spider Mites


Ampligo / Matish / Karate Zeon / Proclaim
Aphids & Whitefly

Actara Soil Drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Chess
Disease Problems
Damping off
Southern Blight Copper Oxychloride / Bravo / Amistar Top
Bossom Blight Folio Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold
Leaf spots; Powdery

Amistar Top
Mildew
Virus Complex
Actara Soil Drench / Dip
Onion
Onion | Page 49
Onion Production Guide
General
Onion requires cool conditions for good vegetative growth with a temperature range of between
12° C and 24 °C. Winter months provide these conditions as the long cool winter months gives
better vegetative growth before bulbing, resulting in better and higher yields. As the summer
months approach and high daily temperatures of 25° C to 27° C accelerates the bulbing
process. If a cold snap occurs with temperatures of around 13°C while bulbing this can trigger
bolting. The bulbs need a month of dry weather towards the end of its growing period for
maturity. Onions are sensitive to length of daylight. Certain cultivars like “Texas Grano” an open
pollinated variety have short daylight requirements that is why they are termed short day
cultivars. Cultivars that can form bulbs in less than a 12-hour day length must be grown. Late or
indeterminate day cultivars require longer day length, therefore should not be planted above the
28 Degree latitude, as the closer to the equator the shorter the day length. Choice of cultivar is
determined by whether long term storage is required or not. Some Seed Co hybrids such as
Elad, Dina, Ada and Saturn will store for up to 5 – 6 months whereas open pollinated varieties
do not have good storage properties. As onions remain in the ground for a long time weed
control is very important because the soil should not be worked deeper than 50mm to 75mm
then, only during the early growth. Leaf disease control is also very important.
Variety sowing windows

NB: Sowing windows differ with varietal maturity and day-length requirements. E.g. growers in
Zimbabwe will be advised to sow some Seed Co varieties from the beginning of the year
as follows: Regent F1 (weeks 4-11 and 16-22), Elad F1 (weeks 5-22), Ada F1 (weeks 5-17)
and Saturn F1 (weeks 9-18). Consult Seed Co Agronomists.
Site & Soil Selection

Onions have a relatively shallow root system to a depth of about 200mm to 300mm. Onions can
be grown on a wide range of soils. Heavy clay soils however are difficult to work with and can
cause serious problems at harvest. Soils prone to capping i.e. T factor should be avoided.
Onions respond to well composted kraal manure at a rate of up to 20 tons per hectare which
has been incorporated into the soil. Soil PH of 5.5 – 6.5 is optimum as at a low PH; certain
diseases like white rot become more prevalent. Soil analysis is important and needs to be done
for fertilizer application and to understand the cation balance e.g. Ca: Mg: K:Na ratio should be
65%:23%:10%:2%.
Soils should be deep ripped to achieve good drainage, with a good fine to medium seedbed tilth
with no large clods.
Onion | Page 50
Fertilization
Soil analysis will help to decide how much fertilizer to apply. Onions generally do well with
1,000kg to 1,300kg of compound “C” (6:17:15). Calcium nitrate can be used as a top dressing at
the rate of 300kg per hectare starting at 3 weeks after transplanting or emergence. Another top
dressing at 5 weeks, 7 weeks and 9 weeks up until seventh or eighth leaf stage. Micronutrient
sprays of Nutrifoil every 2 weeks at the rate on the label should be done until the bulb starts to
form. Avoid late or excessive Nitrogen top dressings as this will cause “Bull necks”, it will also
cause the plant to go back to vegetative mode if Nitrogen levels are high at bulb formation.
Production Methods
Onions can be produced in the following way: -
a) Production of seedlings in an open field seedbed for transplanting.
b) Doing seedlings in trays with up to 3 or 4 seeds per plug.
c) Seeding direct in the field with a precision planter.
d) Onion sets for transplanting.
Field Seedbeds
A common method used. Sowing is done from early February to mid-April for transplanting from
May to June. Harvesting is then normally done from September to mid-October. Seed is sown in
rows 150mm – 200mm apart and seed sown to a depth of 10mm to 12mm. About 7 grams to 10
grams seed is used per square meter. Allow 3kg to 5kg of seed to produce 600,000 seedlings to
be planted per hectare. Transplant seedlings when pencil thick about 6 – 8 weeks after sowing.
Seed Trays
Sowing time is similar to open seedbeds. Seedlings normally only get to 3.0mm to 3.5mm in
diameter. Once the plug is pulled, separate the seedlings and plant individual plants. Some
growers plant the plug without separating the seedlings but at slightly wider spacing. This is not
normally suggested as these clusters do not develop sufficiently and some bulbs are malformed
with flattened sides.
Transplanting seedlings from field seedbeds or plugs.

Seedlings are planted in shallow furrows which have been made on top of the bed. The number
of rows will depend on variety and the growers decided final population. Roughly 5 to 6 rows on
a 1,2metre bed top is the normal. Seedlings are placed at a slant on the sides of the furrow and
the roots are covered with soils to a depth of 1cm to 2.5cm. After transplanting, the seedlings
will lie flat but will recover in a few days after the settling in irrigations and will start growing
upright.
Onion | Page 51
Direct Seeding
Direct seeded crops are normally 6 weeks earlier to maturity and avoids the labor-intensive
practice of transplanting. A big disadvantage is that the entire field must be kept weed free,
seedlings are still very small, weak and vulnerable. Weed control pre and post emergence is
very important. Irrigation is a problem as it needs to apply small amounts often and evenly over
the entire crop until germination is complete. Seed requirement is between 6kg to 8kg per
hectare.
Sets
Sets are more robust after they have been transplanted and therefore easier to manage. Seed
is sown in an open field nursery on beds that are 1.2metre to 1.6metre on top with 6 or 8 rows
per bed 20cm apart this figuration depends on if a planter is being used or being done by hand.
Seeding is normally done in June in the hotter parts of the country and July – August in the
cooler areas as a rule of thumb one hectare of seedbeds should supply enough seedlings for 10
hectares of crop. It is very important that not too much Nitrogen is given to the growing
seedlings. Approximately 30kg – 50kgs of Nitrogen needs to be applied per hectare. After
germination the bulbs will start to form within 4 – 6 weeks. Bulbs will continue to grow until
November when their size gets to 20mm – 25mm in diameter, then will begin to lodge. Lifting
will be done in late November to Mid-December. After the sets have been lifted allow the necks
to start drying off for 2 – 3 days then the sets can now be dried in bulk bins, on wire racks or
cages. Make sure that the necks of the sets are completely dry before storage.
It is important that the storage facilities are adequate to hold all the sets as they need to be kept
for between 2 – 3 months before planting out. Before storage, sets can be graded into roughly 3
sizes, 15mm – 20mm – 25mm so immature and over size bulbs can then be discarded so they
do not take up storage space. If sets are stored in bulk do not go higher than 1metre – 1.5
meter in the drying room. There are two methods of storage, either cold or warm. Cold storage
needs temperature ranges from 1° C to 4° C with a R.H of 65% - 75%. Warm storage has a
temperature of 26 °C – 27° C with a R.H. of 60% - 75%. Sets can be stacked on a slatted or
perforated floor so that an air flow can then pass through. There are problems with cold and
warm storage. High temperatures can result in slow emergence after planting out the sets due
to the lack of the breakdown of the inhibitor (diallyl-disulfide) which is formed in the sets during
the latter stages of growth.
After planting out frequent light irrigation of 1mm to 2mm can be applied twice a day to help cool
the soil down. Warm storage is best for sets larger than 25mm, as large sets are prone to
bolting with cold storage conditions. Cold storage can lead to unwanted flowering if sets are
kept for the whole period of storage. The inhibitor is broken down by cold storage. Before
storage contact your Seed Co Agronomist to recommend a fungicide to prevent disease and
decay during storage and how best to apply it. Remember to dry the bulbs again if dipped in a
chemical solution.
Onion | Page 52
Make sure at transplanting time that the sets must be completely covered with soil as any part
left exposed will probably get sun scorched resulting in possible pathogen attack. After
transplanting out the sets the smaller size sets just start enlarging in size and begin to become
normal onions. Large sets over 35mm in diameter often split. The idea of using sets is to get a
crop to mature earlier than the normal plantings thereby catching higher prices on the market.
However, this method does result in a rather uneven crop. The percentage of bolters, thick neck
bulbs and split bulbs is often quite high. Spacing of the sets in the field is the same as for
planted out seedlings or direct seeded crops. Planting is done by hand or a specially designed
planting machine. Seed count is normally 270,000 seeds per kilo.
Spacing
Plant density can be from 600,000 to 800,000 plants per hectare. This gives yields of 80
000kg to 120 000kg per hectare of fresh market bulbs.
Plant on beds of 1.2m – 1.6m beds center to center. Five to eight rows per bed 20cm apart and
seedlings or seeds 5cm to 10cm apart. Planting depth is critical as this has a noticeable effect
on the bulb shape. The onion stem plate forms at the point that the seed germinates. The entire
bulb forms above this point thus the bulb may form below or above the soil surface depending
on the placement of the seed.
Irrigation
After sowing the seed direct in the field or in the field nursery seedbed the soil surface should
not be allowed to dry out. This entails short irrigation cycles two to three times a day depending
on weather conditions. After transplanting seedlings, they should be watered daily until the
plants stand up. Onion roots can penetrate up to 800mm but most roots feed in the top 200mm
– 300mm of soil. Care of irrigation management in the first 9 – 10 weeks is important, before
bulb formation and the next important period is just before harvest. No stress should be allowed
during bulb formation; however, no irrigation should be applied for the final 3 weeks before
maturity to allow the bulbs to cure properly. A good onion crop will require 600mm – 700mm of
irrigation.
Harvesting
Some growers harvest a small portion of the crop once the bulbs are a good size and sold as
green onions tied in bunches. Mostly growers start harvesting when the tops of over 50% of the
crop have collapsed and fallen over, even though the leaves still show a green color. A good
way to lift is to loosen the soil with a blade pulled below the root zone. Leave the onions for 3 –
4 days to dry then pull them out by hand. Even if the crop is not going to be stored, the bulbs
should be dry before marketing. Pull up to about 10 rows at a time and place in a single windrow
in the field with the leaves being put over the bulbs to stop sun burn.
Onion | Page 53
These are left for a further 2 – 3 days to dry and then the roots and leaves are cut off. If rain
should fall before the onions have been removed from the field the windrows should be turned
over and opened to dry before re doing the windrow. Once off the field and in the shed onions
can be graded to size before pocketing for marketing. If onions are to be stored the keeping
quality is related to the number of cells per volume of the bulb, the amount of growth inhibitor
(diallyl disulphide) is formed in the leaves then translocate to the bulb at maturity. Make sure
the onions have lodged properly for this process to take place to enhance the keeping quality.
Effective drying is when the temperature is around 27° C and low humidity of 75% R.H. with
good ventilation. This temperature also reduces sprouting in the stored onion. Where long term
storage is required it is important that high relative humidity of 75% - 80% R.H. are avoided as
this is the enemy of stored onions. High R.H. promotes root growth and the development of
storage pathogens that could result in big losses. Low relative humidity of less than 65% R.H.
leads to excessive moisture loss resulting in shriveled bulbs and big losses in weight. For long
term storage good management of the shed is vital. Before filling the shed it should have been
cleaned thoroughly to prevent fungal and bacterial infections. All damaged onions should be
removed at grading before coming into the building. Good ventilation, temperature control and
humidity control of all the bins should be checked regularly, and any onions with Basal, Neck
and Soft Rots which are common storage problems must be removed. Keep the floor clean of
debris and sweepings.
A well cured onion will store and remain in a good state for a long time.
Onion | Page 54
Onion Spray Guide
Stage Nursery Transplanting & Vegetative First blubs Blub expansion Mature
seeding establishment
Days: 0-49 42-56 50- 90 90 - 110 110 - 170 150 -200
Pest Problems
Nematodes
Solvigo
Soil Pests
Actara Soil drench
Cutworms
Karate Zeon
Thrips
Actara / Ampligo
Disease Problems
Downy mildew & white tip Ortiva/Ridomil/Foilo Gold/Revus
Purple blotch (alternaria) Amistar Top / Bravo
Neck Rot Amistar Top / Ortiva
Touchdown
emergence annuals
Onion | Page 55
Dual Magnum
Post- transplanting ;
pre-emergence: grasses Fusilade Forte + broadleaf
Pre-emergence: grasses + Servian

Broadleaf
Pea
Pea | Page 56
Pea Production Guide
Mange tout and sugar snap peas are cool weather legumes which give maximized yields when
air temperatures range between 7 - 24 degrees Celsius. It is possible to grow the crop outside
of this optimum range by subtle use of irrigation. In areas prone to severe frost it is advisable
that the crop should not be in production during these times. Flowers will abort resulting in a
poor set and loss in yield as well as young pods being severely damaged.
Soils
Peas can be grown on a wide variety of soils but, in general, heavier clay soils are preferable as
they tend to result in higher yields. Well-aerated and well-drained sandy loams of pH 5,5 to 6,0
(calcium chloride) should be chosen. On soils with a pH of less than 5,3 must have lime applied
with preference given to dolomitic lime.
Fertilization
All soils must be analyzed prior to planting so that any corrective measures may be taken
before a problem becomes noticeable. Light sandy soils require more fertilizer than heavier
soils. As a rule of thumb, apply 800 – 1000 kg/ha of compound A or B and in heavy
clay soils use 400 – 500 kg/ha. If there has been a history of zinc deficiencies in the sandy soils
compound Z may be used to substitute for half the compound B.
The quantity and timing of AN top dressing is again dependent on soil type. On sandy soils up
to 300 kg/ha AN can be applied on a regular basis starting from +/- 4 weeks after germination
and should continue well into flowering and picking. Less AN would be required on heavier soils
and the time between applications may be longer. Additional potash may be required and 75 –
100 kg/ha of muriate will help color and flavor.
Varieties
There are only two main commercial varieties in each group:
Variety Days to Maturity Plant Ht Resistances

Snow Wind 72 60 – 70 cm Powdery Mildew, Pea Enation Mosaic Virus
Snow Green 70 75 – 80 cm Powdery Mildew, Common Wilt
Sugar Lady 75 75–90 cm Fusarium Wilt, Powdery Mildew
Common Pea Wilt Virus, Pea Enation Mosaic
Cascadia 60 75-90 cm Virus
Super Sugarsnap 66 150 cm Powdery Mildew, Pea Leaf Roll Virus
Pea | Page 57
Seed
All Pea Seed is treated with Apron Star Seed Dressing
Population
Seed can either be hand or mechanically sown to achieve a population of about 160 000 plants
per hectare. The approximate weight of seed sown per hectare will vary according to the variety
but is normally in the region of 40 – 50 kg/ha.
As a general guideline plant two rows per bed on beds that are 1,5 m center to center. A built-
up bed is advisable as it reduces chances of water logging from occurring thus improving soil
aeration. During the dry winter months this may not be necessary, and planting can be done on
the flat.
In-row spacing is 8 cm and between the rows on the beds it is 15 – 20 cm. The rows are close
together for ease of trellising.
As an alternative, single lines can be planted at 1m apart and with 6 cm in-row spacing. No less
than 5 cm should ever be used as the in-row spacing as this will result in plants not tillering due
to excessive competition. Minimum distance between the rows is approx. 90 cm which is
determined by the ease of picking, spraying etc.
Planting
Sow seed to a depth of 25 to 40 mm into moist pre-irrigated soil. Always plant upwind when a
series of plantings are to be in the same field so that the older plantings are downwind of
emerging crops. This will reduce the pest and disease pressure especially of Heliothis,
Ascochyta, Powdery mildew and Mycosphaerella. Boron deficiency is indicated by a clear
yellowish to light green rim to the leaf. Copper sprays can cause similar symptoms and stunt
leaves so be careful with excess copper sprays.
Pea | Page 58
Pests and diseases
Before using any chemicals please check that it is on your exporter’s Declared Pesticide List
and read the label for manufacturer’s instructions.
Weeds
Great care should be taken to follow label instructions, with reference to depth of planting,
restrictions related to soil type and range of weeds likely to be controlled. Peas are generally
a winter crop so broadleaf weeds are likely to be a greater problem than grasses.
Terbutryn: Apply within 48 hours of planting to wet soil or follow with a light irrigation.
Controls mainly broad leaf weeds and has a residual action of 6 – 8 weeks.
Rates : 0 - 10 % clay 2 l/ha

-
10 – 20 % clay 2,5 l/ha
-
20 - 30 % clay 3,0 l/ha
over 30 % clay 4,0 l/ha
Dual Magnum 960EC
Apply within 48 hours of planting and irrigate it controls grass, weeds. Pre-emergence
application rate is 1,2-1,5lt per ha
Fusilade Forte
This may be used up to 3 l/ha over the top of peas when they are 50 – 150 mm high to control
certain broadleaf weeds and yellow nutsedge. Do NOT exceed this rate on peas – nor should it
be used on frost damaged crops or when frost is imminent. Weeds must be at a susceptible
stage.
This will control most emerged true grasses and will also suppress Upright Starbur when
sprayed at 1 – 1.5 l/ha dependent on height and species of grass. It can be safely applied over
the top of peas at any stage. Weeds must be growing vigorously, and herbicide effect may not
be noticed for some time after spraying. Fusilade Forte becomes rain fast within 1 – 2 hours.
Pea | Page 59
Insects
Nematodes
Solvigo 108SC at 3lts/ha into planting furrow before covering. Will also control soil borne
insects and early sucking pests (Aphids/Thrips). PHI 45 days
Oxamyl @ 4l/ha split into 2l /ha at planting followed by 2 l/ha two weeks later. Soil must be wet
at the time of application or irrigation to follow within two hours. It must be applied in a high
volume of water (1000 l/ha) applied with the nozzle of the knapsack removed and drenched as
close to plants as possible.
Cut worm
Karate Zeon@ 100 ml/ha applied over the crop at germination. Soil must be moist.
Heliothis bollworm
This can be quite a problem particularly during warm spells. Spray with :-
Karate Zeon @ 200ml/ha in 500lt volume of water (PHI 2days).
Ampligo @ 250ml/ha in 500lt volume of water (water PH1 3days).
Proclaim @ 250gm/ha in 500lt volume of water (PHI 2days).
Match @ 600ml/ha in 500lt volume of water (PH1 14days)
Do not use Karate Zeon as a foliar application between 1 June and 1 August
Thrips
This small insect is difficult to control as it lives mainly in the growing points and flowers. The
use of sugar as a form of bait has been found to give better control (100g/100l). Use:
DDVP @ 1lt/ha (PHI 1day)

Proclaim @ 300gm/ha (PHI 3days)
Diseases
In all instances good leaf cover is essential for effective control and good spraying techniques
are imperative.
Pea | Page 60
Damping off
Newly emerged young plants are susceptible to damping off and root rot diseases, especially
under conditions unfavorable for germination and early growth. Apron Star 42 WS as a seed
dressing @ 3gm/kg seed prior to planting.
Benlate @ 1 kg/ha drenched along plant bases. This is the only time that Benlate should be
used in the crop due to overseas restrictions.
Powdery Mildew
This disease thrives in hot dry weather.
Sulphur @ 1 – 2 kg/ha is a cheap preventative chemical that should be sprayed on a weekly

basis. This product must not be mixed with other chemicals and only sprayed during the cool
of the day.
Amistar Top @ 500ml/ha (PHI 14days)

Score @ 350ml/ (PHI 14days
Are systemic curatives
Downy Mildew
It is more prevalent in cool wet conditions where the plants are covered by dew until mid-
morning. Preventative sprays of Copper @ 2kgs/ha will help and curative sprays of Ortiva @
600ml/ha once the disease has been seen.
Black Spot (Ascochyta pisi and Mycosphaerella pinodes)
Ascochyta only attacks the leaves and pods whilst Mycosphaerella also attacks the stem and
root crown. Circular lesions appear on the leaves and tiny raised spots form on the pods.
Overwatering exaggerates the problem and encourages the spread of the disease. Control in
the field is achieved with:
Use of disease-free certified seed Good

crop rotation (at least three years)
Irrigate in mornings only to allow plants to dry out before night fall.
Copper Oxychloride @ 2 - 3 kg/ha as a preventative spray weekly

Bravo 720SC @ 1,4 lt/ha (PHI 14days)
Ortiva 250SC @ 500-600ml/ha (PHI 3days) Pea | Page 61
.
Harvesting
During the summer months the picking starts eight weeks after planting but this will be as
much as twelve weeks during mid-winter. The crop is generally harvested for 3 – 4 weeks in
hot weather and up to six weeks in winter.
Picking must be daily as the peas become over mature and unmarketable very quickly. One
woman should be able to pick 25 kg in one day but where there is a bonus incentive over 50
kg per person has been achieved.
As soon as the pod is picked it is essential that field heat is removed as quickly as possible to
ensure that shelf life is kept to a maximum. The containers that the peas are picked into must
be small bowls which are emptied into waiters’ crates and placed into a nearby field hut to be
kept in the shade. If the hut is made of hessian sacking, then it is advisable to keep it wet
during the day. These crates must be labelled according to the field number from which they
have been picked and transported to the cold store every two hours. The cold store should be
kept at approximately 3 degrees.
Pea | Page 62
Pea Spray Guide
Stage Nursery Transplanting & Rapid Leaf Floret Floret / Head Harvest Product Rate/ha grams or EU Days to
Establishment Growth Formation Expansion ml/100 Lts MRL Harvest
Days: -7 0-14 14-50 35-45 50-70 60-120 water @ 500 mg/kg (phi)
Lts
Pest Problems
Solvigo 3 Lts 600 0.01 45
Nematodes Solvigo
Karate Zeon 5Cs 100ml/ha (cutworm 20/40 0.02 2
Cutworm Karate Zeon
200ml/ha (bollworm)
Trigard 75 WP 150 gm 30 5 3
Leafminer
Trigard/Dynamec
Dynamec 018 EC 560 ml 115 0.01 7
Pod Bollworm Karate Zeon/ Proclaim/Ampligo/Match
Proclaim 05 SG 250gm 50 0.01 3
Ampligo 150 ZC 250 ml 50 0.01 3
Thrips Ampligo / Proclaim/
Match 050 EC 600ml 120 0.02 14
Red Spider Mites Dynamec Apron Star 2.5gm/kg seed Seed Dress 2-4
Oritiva 250 SC 500 -800 ml 60 - 120 3 3
Bravo 720 SC 1.4 Lts 280 2 14
Amistar Top 325SC 500 ml 100 1 7
Disease Problems Copper Oxychloride 3 kg 600 20 2
Damping off Dual Magnum 960 EC 1.3 Lts 100 0.05 na
Fusilade Forte 1.25 Lts 250 1 28
Ascochyta Gramoxone 2 Lts 400 0.02na
Ortiva / Bravo / Copper/Amistar Top
Touchdown 2 Lts 400 0.05na
Downy mildew
Amistar Top/ Ortiva * No of appl’ns = Number of applications per crop cycle; depend on problem pressure,
weather conditions and crops chemical alternations.
Powdery mildew
Amistar Top/ Ortivah
Weed Problems
Touchdown
emergence annuals
Dual Magnum
|Pea Page 63
Fusilade Forte
Pre-emergence: grasses + Codal Gold/

Broadleaf Terbutryn
Pepper
Pepper | Page 64
Pepper Production Guide
General
Peppers can be grown outdoors but most pepper production is in Greenhouses under glass or
plastic. Bell types have the largest share of the market. Fruits are large, blocky, three or four
lobed, thick fleshed, nice dark green when immature turning either red, orange, yellow, and
some black when fully ripe. Open pollinated and hybrid cultivars are available at Seed Co.
Hybrid F1 cultivars have combined resistance to several diseases. Hybrid seed is more
expensive and gives bigger fruits and higher yields than open pollinated cultivars. As a Pepper
plant grows and flowers, the growth of the plant is reduced while those fruits that have been set
are filled to maturity. When these fruits have been harvested a new flush of growth takes place
and the next lot of fruits are set. This process continues for as long as the plant is well cared for
regards to nutrients and no disease or virus allowed to affect the plant. A pepper plant has a
growth rate of about 25% slower than a tomato plant. Peppers have a slow production of leaf
area as their leaves are much thicker and harder than tomatoes so have to expend more energy
to produce the same leaf area. Because of the slow growth rate this makes peppers sensitive to
any stress and are slow to recover. Successful and on-going production lies in a steady, regular
growth rate throughout the life cycle. Avoid planting peppers in the same fields or greenhouses
and tunnels previously planted with Tomato, Eggplant, Peppers or other Solanaceous crops as
they share the same pest and disease problems. Peppers are generally self-pollinating. Planting
time in important as there will be no pollination of flowers if the temperature is below 12° C. Fruit
will set but there will be no seeds in the fruits. Good seed set is important to achieve a good
yield.
Varieties
Seed Co supplies a rich diversity of peppers for both greenhouse and open field production
including Red Prime (red), Springbok (yellow), Hercules (red), Solanor (yellow). Consult your
Seed Co Agronomist for best varieties.
Soil
Peppers like a PH range of 6.0 – 6.5. Soils can be from heavy loam to medium clay loam have a
good structure, well aerated so good drainage can be achieved. Deep ripping to a depth of
40cm-45cm will allow for a good deep-rooted crop as pepper plants are sensitive to excess
water around the root system, but at the same time are susceptible to
water stress.
Pepper | Page 65
Fertilization
Basal: -
The main nutrient requirements are in a range of N 160-250kgs per hectare, P2O5 200-300kgs
per hectare, K2O 200kg per hectare. This can be checked against the soil analysis done to
decide on the rate of fertilizer to be applied to the crop. As a rule, a compound or blend fertilizer
can be used at a rate of 750kg – 1000kg per hectare of compound “B” or “C” depending on the
soil analysis result.
Top Dressing: -
Two weeks after transplanting start top dressing with 35kg per hectare Calcium Nitrate for the
first two top dressings then up to 45kg per hectare Calcium Nitrate every week till first harvest.
Then apply Potassium Nitrate 30kg-40kg per hectare- e per week two weeks before final
harvest.
Magnesium sulphate and Boron should be applied regularly after harvesting begins to prevent
deficiencies. Ask your agronomist for advice on rates, or after sap test results. Blossom end rot
can be caused by moisture stress, root damage or low PH. and a deficiency of Calcium. Blossom
end rot is not only confined to the blossom end in peppers but can also occur on the sides of the
fruits, often in combination with sun scorch.
Irrigation
Peppers do not like wet feet but are very susceptible to water stress. The well-prepared bed will
help with drainage and encourage deep rooting. Irrigation requirements range from 600mm –
700mm. Peppers require a soil moisture content of around 80% of field capacity. Frequency of
irrigation will depend on soil type. During the summer months soils need to be irrigated every 5 –
7 days and if drip irrigation is used normally every day of about 0.5lts. Drip irrigation is preferable
to furrow irrigation or sprinkler systems. Overhead irrigation is not normally recommended for a
pepper crop. Wet leaves and fruits promote disease development. If overhead sprinkler irrigation
has to be used avoid irrigating towards evening and make sure plants are dry before night fall.
With drip irrigation the salt concentration around the roots must be washed out from time to time.
Enough soil moisture should be maintained during fruiting which will promote large, more
numerous fruits.
Growth & Development

The pepper plant grows upright with a single stem for 8 – 10 leaves. A “Y” shoot now forms and
a flower bud forms in the split of the “Y”. As these two branches grow out, they also develop into
a “Y” form and a flower bud appears in the split of that “Y”. This pattern is repeated for about 5
nodes always splitting into two after the formation of a terminal flower. As the first fruits set, they
take all the energy from the plant inhibiting further growth, flowering and fruit set. Once the first
fruits are harvested the energy is then channeled to new growth, flowers and fruits.
Pepper | Page 66
Agronomy
Peppers planted in the open fields can be transplanted into beds 30cm high with a top section of
1.2m – 1.5m wide. A soft seed bed with a fine texture will also promote active root growth. At
transplanting plants are spaced 50cm apart and 50cm between the two rows on the top of the
bed. This gives a population of approximately 26,600 plants per hectare. Beds can either be
covered with grass mulch or wheat straw or thin plastic sheeting. Mulching helps to conserve
moisture and reduce weeds. Plant populations in a greenhouse or tunnel can be from 22,000 –
25,000 plants per hectare. A normal method is to use a tram line system, planting staggered or
off set double rows with 40cm – 60cm between plants. A pathway is left between the tram lines
for easy access. This can be 40cm – 60cm. Plants in row can be 50cm – 60cm apart. A 60cm
tram line with 60cm in row spacing with a one-meter pathway gives a plant density of around 2
plants per square meter. The tram line system makes better use of available greenhouse space
than single rows. Varieties must be well selected as this is vital for success. There are many
factors to consider, this includes fruit type, color, wall thickness and fruit size which will be best
suited in the marketplace. A Seed Co Agronomist can help with variety selection. Disease
resistance is also of importance.
Seeding and Planting

Germination of Pepper seed needs optimum day temperatures of 24° C – 28° C with night
temperatures 20° C – 21 °C. The minimum temperature a pepper seed will germinate is 13° C.
Pepper seed may be seeded directly or in a well-prepared seed bed or done as a speedling by a
professional nursery. As F1 hybrid seed is expensive the seed should be propagated as a
speedling in 128 cell trays or 200 cell trays or in pots. The bigger the surface area of the cell or
the pot the seedling will be thicker with a sturdier stem. The ideal seedling should be 15cm –
18cm tall with 5 – 6 true leaves. If seedbeds are used a plant density of approximately 200
plants per square meter is optimal. Normally seedlings will be ready in about 60 days depending
on temperature. Seedlings in seedbeds, trays or pots need to be hardened off well prior to
transplanting. Just before pulling top dress with a balanced nutrient solution. If seedbeds are
being done do not over water after sowing as lack of oxygen will inhibit germination. At
transplanting, if the weather is very hot then transplant the seedling in the cool late afternoon or
under cloud cover if any. This ensures that the transplanting shock of the seedling is minimized.
Irrigate as soon as possible after transplanting.
Pepper | Page 67
In field peppers that are not pruned the normal fruit set is about 8 fruits per plant. If the weather
permits a second, much later flush is possible after the first fruits have been harvested. By
removing the first terminal flower and developing a stronger plant before setting the first fruit this
will allow more splits and more regular fruit setting resulting in a rise of 10 – 15 more fruits.
Some outdoor growers of F1 hybrid production can achieve yields of 80 – 90 tons per hectare
from 25,000 plants.
Production in Greenhouse or tunnel structures makes space very expensive therefore growers
must achieve the highest possible yields to pay for the structures. This means cropping for as
long as possible from one planting and to avoid non-productive down time, maximizing the yield
potential from every plant and from every square meter of surface. Production in these
structures normally produce the best quality. To achieve maximum yields, one must balance the
crop yield with available leaf factory. For a pepper crop to re-establish its production it takes too
long and can lead to big losses in income. A pruning program is aimed at suppressing early fruit
set and promoting the establishment of a strong plant factory. By ensuring that all available
energy goes into leaf and root growth, and thereafter maintaining equilibrium between leaf
growth and fruit development. The grower must be able to manage all stages of fruit
development on the plants, from a mature green or colored fruit at the bottom of the plant,
through all stages of green to an open flower and new flower development at the top of the
plant.
It will also be necessary to prune side shoots until the start of flowering. When grown in
Greenhouses and tunnels the plants are normally supported by strings attached to a cross
member above the plants and the string wound around the stem to support it or by using
individual stakes. Light shade cloth of 12% white will also promote bigger leaves, lowers
temperature in hot climate areas and slightly reduce light intensities. All these factors promote
growth and fruit set in peppers.
Harvesting
Tweet pepper fruits should be harvested when they reach full size and firmness. In general, a
good size fruit would weigh between 150grams – 180grams the fruit at this stage should have
nice thick walls, be firm and the blossom end well formed. Sweet or Bell peppers should be
large, blocky, 3 -4 lobed, sweet and thick fleshed. They are usually harvested before they begin
changing color, that is if it is to be sold as green fruits. One can pick the early green fruits to
reduce the stress of the first load on the plant. Remove excess fruits as needed to stimulate
regular bearing. Colored fruits are picked before they have turned completely red or yellow
because as they mature, they become soft more quickly. Shelf life is shorter for fully colored
peppers compared to green peppers. When the peppers are about 75% colored, they are ready
for harvesting. Stems of pepper plants are very fragile so use a sharp knife when harvesting. Be
careful not to damage the plants. Do not pick if the exterior of the fruits is moist as this will
encourage disease. Some stem MUST be left on the fruit.
Pepper | Page 68
Post-harvest, peppers should be stored at a temperature 8° C – 10 °C and RH of 90% - 95%.
Under these ideal conditions you can store the harvested peppers for up to three weeks.
Temperature control is important as below 5 °C they will suffer chilling injury though from 7° C
and above they will continue to ripen.
The time scale from planting to production may vary from 80 – 90 days in warm weather
conditions and from 110 - 120 days in cool weather conditions. The harvesting period varies
between 10 – 12 weeks depending on how well pests and diseases are controlled.
Pepper | Page 69
Pepper Spray Guide
Pepper | Page 70
Stage Nursery Transplanting Vegetative First flowers First Fruits Mature
Days: 0-35 28-36 30-60 60-65 65-70 +75
Pest Problems
Nematodes
Solvigo
Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil drench
Cutworms
Karate Zeon

Ampligo / Match / karate Zeon / Proclaim
Aphids & Red Spider Mite

Polo / Actara / Dynamec
Disease Problems
Damping off Apron Star / Maxim
Bacteria spot & rot Bion / Copper Oxychloride
Cercospora (Frogeye) Amistar Top / Ortiva
Powdery mildew Amistar Top
Phytophthora rootcrown Ridomil Gold MZ / Folio Gold / Revus
Virus complex Actara / Ortiva
Touchdown
emergence annuals
Dual Magnum
Fusilade Forte
Pre-emergence: grasses + Codal Gold

Broadleaf
Potato TPS
Potato TPS | Page 71

Potato TPS Production Guide
Nursery Bed
- 1 metre in width and 50metres in length.
- This is enough area for 1 hectare of seedlings.
Fertilizer
- Compound “S” at 1kg per square meter.
- Or 1kg Cow Manure per square meter.
- Or 1.5kg Compost per square meter.
Dig or chop in fertilizer to 10cm in depth. Make sure the soil has a fine tilth. Open a furrow 5mm
deep across the width of the bed. Furrows will be at 10cm intervals across the bed. Sow the
T.P.S. at 2 grams per square meter, 100grams should do 500 lines. Cover the seed in the
furrow with sieved compost.
Cover the bed with vlei grass to form a mulch so the soil is just visible through the mulch. Water
by rose at least three times a day until germinated. Keep soil moist. After 8 – 10 days the seed
should germinate. Apply Karate over the bed to control cutworm. Once the first leaves are about
match head size remove mulch. Keep watering at least twice a day.
At the 3-leaf stage or at 14 days after germination top dress with A.N. at 5gr. Per meter square.
Dissolve the A.N. in a can of water and then apply through the rose. After top dressing with A.N.
wash fertilizer off the leaves with water to prevent burning the small plants with A.N. Do this as
require if seedling color is pale.
Seedlings should be ready about 42 days after sowing or when 4-5 true leaf stage.
Transplanting
- Prepare the main field and make sure there is a fine tilth.
- Soil PH 5.0 to 5.5 Do not Lime prior to planting
- Basal 1500 – 2000kg Compound “S” Depending on the soil type.
- Make furrow 8 – 12 cm deep and 90cm apart. Place the seedling in the pre irrigated furrow
25cm apart in the furrow. Cover the seedling up to the 1st node.
- Irrigate the field immediately after transplanting.
- After 3 weeks do the earthing up. After the next 3 weeks do the second earthing up. You
should now have a ridge about 30cm in height.
Top Dressing
- Apply 150-200kgs/hect. A.N. depending on soil type at 3 weeks after transplanting.
- Apply 75-100kgs/hect A.N. at 5 weeks Also apply 200kg Sulphate of Potash at 1st flowering
and another 200kg Sulphate of Potash two weeks after 1st flower.
Irrigation
- Light soils 25-30mm every 3 – 4 days in hot months and
5- 7 days in cool months
- Heavy soils 30-35mm every 4 – 5 days in hot months
8 – 9 days in cool months
Harvesting
About 90 – 100 days after transplanting, cut haulms.
-
Allow 10 days for Potato tuber skin to harden then lift.
Fungal Disease
Control recommendations
Early Blight: - Amistar Top 100ml/100lts water. Start at 1st sign of the
disease Or Bravo 720 1lt/100lts water. Start at 1st sign of the disease.
Late Blight: - Revus 100ml/100lts water. Start when weather conditions favor disease
development i.e. rains
Or Folio Gold 400ml/100lts water. Start when weather conditions favor disease i.e. rains.
Broad Spectrum Control Leaf Blight Spot. Copper Oxychloride 2kg/100lt water. Spray weekly
after rain or each irrigation.
Virus Disease Control

Bion 30g/100lt water. Important if seed is to be kept for commercial plantings. Start 3 weeks
after transplanting and every 3 weeks with the maximum of 3 applications.
Pests
Cutworm - Karate 50mls/100lts water. Band spray over the rows.
Potato Tuber Moth - Ampligo 60mls/100lt water. When pest seen.
Aphids - Actara 40gm/100lt water. When pests seen.
Leaf Miner - Dynamec 250mls/100lts water. Control adults. Spray when seen.
Trigard 75grs/100lts water. Spray when Mines seen on leaves.
Yields 30 to 45 tons per hectare.

Potato TPS Spray Guide
Stage Pre-Plant Planting to Rapid Canopy Tuber Complete canopy Maturation Agrochemical Rate/ha grams or Spray EU Days to
initiation
emergence Early Leaves to flowering and growth and tuber growth & Senescence ml/100 Lts Interval MRL Harvest
Days: -7 0-14 14-28 28-42 35-49 70-91 91-120 water @ 500 (days) mg/kg (phi)
Lts water/ha
Pest Problems
Actara 25 WG 400 gm 4 g/1,5Lts n/a 1 n/a
Nematodes Solvigo
drench water/100m furrow
Actara 25 WG foliar 200 gm 40 7-14 1-2 7
Soil Pest & Aphids spray
Actara Soil Drench
Ampligo 150 ZC 200-400 ml 40-80 14 2-4 7
Cutworm Karate Zeon
Amistar Top 325 SC 500 ml 100 7-14 2-4
Leafminer - Lyriomyza Bravo 720 SC 1.5 Lts 300 7-10 4-6 3
Trigards / Dynamec
Dynamec 560 ml 115 14 3-4 3
Red Spider Mites Folio Gold 537,5 SC 2Lts 400 10 2-3 14

Dynamec / Polo
Karate Zeon 5CS 100 ml in 150 Lts water 70 na 1 3
Potato Tuber Moth Match 050 EC 600 ml 120 10-14 2-4 7

Ampligo / Match / Proclaim Maxim XL 035 FS 500 ml / ton tubers na 1 na
Aphids Oritiva 600 - 800 ml 60 - 120 10 2-1 7
Polo / Ampligo / Actara
Polo 500 SC 500 ml 100 7 2 21
Disease Problems Proclaim 05 SG 250 g 50 7-14 2 1
Black &SilverScurfs: Soft Revus 250 SC 500 ml 100 7-14 2-4 3
Maxim / Ortiva Drench Ridomil Gold MZ 68 WG 2.5 kg 100 7-14 1-2 14
rot, common scab
Solvigo 3 Lts 50 n/a 1 n/a
Early blight / Alternaria
Copper Oxy / Bravo / Amistar Top
Trigard 75 WP 150 g 30 7-14 3-4 14
Late Blight Foilo Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold Dual Magnum 960 EC 1 Lts 200 na 1 na
Fusilade Forte 1.25 Lts 250 na 1 28
virus complex Gramoxone 2 Lts 400 na na
Actara Soil Drench
Touchdown 2 lts 400 na 28
Weed Problems * No of appl’ns = Number of applications per crop cycle; depend on problem
Before planting - post pressure, weather conditions and crops chemical alternations.
Touchdown
emergence annuals
Dual Magnum
Fusilade Forte
Dessication
Gramoxone
Potato Tubers
Potato Tubers | Page 75

Potato Tubers Production Guide
Climate
Potatoes thrive under warm day temperatures and cool nights. The optimum mean temperature
ranges from 16-20 C. Severe frost will kill a crop. A minimum of 400mm of water is required to
grow the crop
Soils
Potatoes can be grown on a wide range of soil types. Being shallow rooted and fast-growing
potatoes are generally grown on heavier textured soils. However, with suitable fertilization and
good management the lighter soils can produce good yields. A well-drained soil is essential.
Soil pH
A wide pH range of 4.2-5.8 (Calcium chloride) method) is tolerated. The optimum pH lies
between 5.0-5.5. It is not advisable to lime just prior to planting a potato crop as this can increase
the incidence of potato scab (related to high soil pH). Lime should therefore be applied at some
other stage of rotation.
Land Preparation
Good, deep ploughing is essential. A depth of at least 30cm is recommended. A ne tilth is
necessary for good tuber development. In the case of grass leys, virgin soils or following
leguminous green crops, the land should be ploughed several months before planting to enable
the organic matter to rot down. This is important as soils rich in organic matter may aggravate the
occurrence of Potato Scab. Under these conditions an application of 100kg/Ha Ammonium
Nitrate will assist the breakdown of organic matter. Should a potato crop follow other crops a
single ploughing and harrowing is all that’s necessary.
Seed
The use of high-quality seed is of vital importance.
The risk of virus infection makes the choice of seed a major consideration. Certified seed will
usually produce 15-20% higher yields than standard seed and will cover the additional costs.
Three grades of seed are available to growers. Grade AA and XX is available for a limited period
(May-July) in anyone-year. Grade A is available throughout the year.

Grade AA – produced in Nyanga
Varietal Purity: 99.5%
Health: Not more than 0.25% leaf roll or severe mosaic virus.
Not more than 2% visible mild mosaic.
No bacterial wilt at any stage of growth.
Grade A
Varietal Purity: 99.5%
Health: Not more than 1% leaf roll or severe mosaic virus.
Not more than 2% visible mild mosaic
Grade XX – produced in Nyanga

As for Grade AA but tubers have been subjected to a limited amount of mechanical damage.
Fertilization Requirements
Potatoes require relatively large quantities of fertilizers because of their shallow roots and
because of their need to bulk up within a short growing period.
Macronutrients:
(N)Nitrogen: This is an important nutrient; however excessive dressings lead to excessive
vegetative growth at the expense of yield. Excessive dressings or late
applications of nitrogen result in tuber initiation and may result in physiological
disorders of the tubers such as hollow heart. Potatoes require about 5kg of
nitrogen per ton of tubers produced.
(P25) Phosphate: Potatoes have reasonably high requirement for this nutrient over a short
period. Potatoes require about 4kg of phosphate per ton of tubers
produced.
(K2) Potash: The crop requirements for potash are very high. An adequate supply of this
nutrient can increase resistance to drought, frost and disease. Potash aids tuber
quality and should be applied in the sulphate or nitrate forms, as potatoes are
relatively sensitive to chlorine. Positive results have been obtained using
Potassium Nitrate foliar sprays to increase yield and increase frost resistance.
Potatoes require about 9.12kg of potash per ton of tubers produced.
Calcium: Potatoes respond well to calcium as it plays a role in tuber development. Most
compound fertilizers contain 10-12% calcium but if the Calcium status of the soil
is very poor, additional nutrient can be applied as Gypsum before planting or as
foliar sprays of Calcium Nitrate. Potatoes require about 3.25kg of calcium per ton
of tubers produced.
Magnesium: This nutrient is required for a potato crop but not in large quantities. Magnesium
deficiencies are unlikely to occur where a liming material has been applied. A
magnesium deficiency can be corrected by a foliar spray of 2kg Magnesium
Sulphate per 100L water + 30ml Sanawett (wetter).
Sulphur: Adequate quantities of sulphur are applied when using a compound fertilizer such
as compound C or compound S as a basal fertilizer. Sulphate of Potash used as a
top dressing also contains adequate sulphur.
Trace Elements:
These are required in very small quantities by the crop. Most soils contain adequate levels of
micronutrients but in the past specific instances of zinc and boron deficiencies have occurred.
These deficiencies can be recognized and rectified as follows:
Zinc: Leaves develop irregular grayish brown or bronze spots. Affected leaves are usually half
way up the plant, but in severe cases all leaves show symptoms. In extreme cases
internodes remain short and leaves small and thick. Spots develop on petioles and
stems; top leaves assume a slightly vertical position and margins of leaves may curl
upward so that growth resembles that of a fern. To rectify this deficiency mix 200g Zinc
Oxide in 100L water and apply 300 – 400L of solution per Ha as a foliar spray while
crop is young. This treatment is unnecessary where regular sprays of Dithane M45 are
being used.
Boron: Deficiency symptoms are indicated by deaths of growing points and lateral buds
develop. The internodes remain short, giving the plant a bushy appearance. The upper
leaves tend to be dark green, tough, with a shiny surface and with an upward curling of
the leaf margins. Tuber symptoms show the vascular rings turning partially or
completely brown and rapid discoloration of the cat surface. As the fertilizer
compounds recommended for use on potatoes contain boron this should be enough
for the plants requirements.
The symptoms of excess boron are poor stands due to indifferent sprouting. Sprouts die off
after some growth has taken place. Roots fail to develop satisfactorily. Leaves become
bleached or develop marginal yellowing. Do not exceed application of 2kg elemental boron per
Ha.
Timing and Application of Fertilizers

To ensure that the soil can supply adequate nutrients a carefully planned fertilizer program is
needed. The required rates of fertilization vary considerably according to land history, soil type,
variety, climate and yield expectations. To establish the correct rate of fertilization it is advisable
to have a soil sample analyzed by a laboratory and to discuss the result with your local ZFC
agronomist, whose knowledge of local conditions will be of great assistance. All the phosphate
and most of the nitrogen and potash should be applied at or before planting. This is usually done
as a basal dressing of a compound fertilizer. The remaining nutrients are applied as a top
dressing.

The traditional recommendations have been to use Compound S (7:21:7). This fertilizer is high
in phosphate and low in boron (0.04%). Compound S should be used on sandy soils and on
soils that are low in phosphate, however the potash content is inadequate, and the crop will
require further top dressings of potash if S is used.
The other alternative is to use Compound C (6:17:15). This is probably the better compound to
use for potatoes as the potash content is relatively high and phosphate is adequate.
Standard suggestions for potato fertilization are:

1 Apply 1300 – 1500kg/Ha Compound S at planting, rate depending on the sandiness and
phosphate status of the soil. At three weeks after emergence apply 150 – 200kg/Ha AN as a
top-dressing. Top dress with 400 – 500kg/Ha Sulphate of potash split into two equal
applications, one at flowering and the other two weeks after flowering. (Potassium Nitrate at
450kg/Ha can be used in place of AN and Sulphate of potash).
OR
2 Apply 1300 – 1500kg/Ha Compound C at planting. Apply 200kg/Ha AN 3 weeks after

emergence as a top dressing. Top dress with 200 – 300kg/Ha Sulphate of potash split into two
equal applications, one at flowering and the other two weeks after flowering. (Potassium Nitrate
at 450kg/Ha can be used in place of AN and Sulphate of potash).
When applying the basal Compound S or C applications, it is preferable to band the fertilizer to
the side of the seed. If suitable banding equipment is not available, it may be placed in the
furrow with the seed. A degree of fertilizer burn can result from this practice. To reduce this
possible effect a single line may be drawn along the bottom of the furrow to mix it with the soil,
or a fertilizer covered with a thin layer of soil before planting the seed.
Another efficient method of application is to broadcast the fertilizer after ridging, set the seed in
the furrow then split the ridge back over the seed.
When tubers are in direct contact with the fertilizer a good initial irrigation will reduce the
chances of burn occurring.
Planting Depth
Seed should be set 7.5cm below the surface of heavy soil and 10 – 15cm in lighter soils. Deep
plantings take longer to emerge and are more prone to attack by cutworm and other soil pests.
However, the deep plantings are better protected against tuber moth attack and tuber greening.

Under irrigation the crop will emerge more quickly and will mature earlier when planted shallow
and the seed covered by leveling the soil. Alternatively planting deeper but covering the seed
with 2.5 – 5cm of soil then re-ridging two- or three-times during growth will produce similar
results.
It should therefore be noted that most tubers develop above the seed, care should therefore be
exercised to make adequate soil available for tuber development.
Seeding Rate and Spacing

Seeding rate is determined by the mass of seed to be used. The recommended rates are as
follows:
Summer crop: Ware - 70pockets/Ha
Seed - 85pockets/Ha
Irrigated winter crop: Ware - 85pockets/Ha
Seed - 110pockets/Ha
The distance between rows will depend on available equipment – usually 90cm. This spacing
in the rows will depend on the seed size. The following table gives the in-row spacing at
various row widths and various seeding rates:
Planting Distance Table
NOTE:
Spacing is related to hollow heart – large tubers tend to be more prone to this physiological disorder, therefore
varieties which tend to produce larger tubers should be planted at closer spacing to reduce tuber size.
A pocket of seed weighs 30kg

The average number of tubers per pocket is as follows:
Small: average number of tubers 1085 – 1200 (typical mass 30g each)
Medium: average number of tubers 450 – 500 (typical mass 60g each)
Large: average number of tubers 250 (typical mass 120g each)

It should therefore be noted that when a seed tuber is planted the sprouts give rise to several
stems above the ground. These stems are in fact individual plants. Large seed tubers produce
many sprouts and so more stems or plants than small tubers. Only where extra-large seed
tubers are involved should cutting of the seed be necessary to achieve the desired seed rate.
Adjustments to the seed rate should be made for variations in soil fertility and variety. Varieties
noted for producing large numbers of tubers per plant will benefit from lower seed rates and vice
versa.
Tuber sprouting can be improved by using Gibberellic Acid. Uncut tubers can be dipped in a
solution of 16ml Gibberellic Acid per 100L of water and cut tubers can be dipped in 3.2ml
Gibberellic Acid per 100L of water. Leave the tubers to dry in a cool place and then plant as soon
as the first sprouts start to appear.
Time of Planting
Although potatoes can be grown all year round, high temperatures in summer and frost in winter
are limiting factors. Three times of plantings are the most common in Zimbabwe.
First winter crop: This is planted from February through to April. The chosen time will be dictated
by the rainfall pattern and the frost incidence. Late blight can be excessive and varieties with
good resistance to this disease should be given preference. In lower altitude frost-free areas,
planting should be delayed until March/April to take advantage of the cooler climate in winter.
Supplementary irrigation is essential. Preventative spraying for late blight should be practiced
during periods of overcast or wet weather. When heavy frost is anticipated a 1 – 2% solution of
potassium nitrate applied as a foliar spray early in the evening may reduce frost damage.
Second winter crop: This is planted in July/august as soon as the main danger of frost is over.
Full irrigation is required. With flood irrigation late blight is unlikely to be a problem. The risk of
late blight is increased when overhead irrigation is practiced, and spraying will be necessary
after the blossom stage. Rising temperatures and longer days in spring and early summer
improve yields in the medium to high altitude areas. In the lowveld lifting should be timed to
occur before the very high temperatures of September/October as this affect tuber quality.
Planting Method
A good tilth is necessary if a good uniform stand is to be obtained. Ridging is essential when
flood irrigation is used. Under overhead irrigation planting can be carried out on the flat and then
ridged up later.
Planting by hand can be practiced behind a tractor drawn ridger, which opens the furrows.
When no ridger is available a 3 – furrow plough can be used. The tubers are placed in an open
furrow and are closed by the soil thrown during the following pass. The wheels of the tractor
cannot run in the open furrow when using this method of planting.
Cultivation
Potatoes are extremely sensitive to root damage. Cultivation should be kept to a minimum. As
tubers must be well covered and protected from greening and tuber moth, ridging up is
essential. Re-ridging should be completed by the time the plant is 25cm high. Care should
always be exercised to ensure that no tubers are exposed. This will reduce the incidence of
tuber moth.
The ridges should be made as low as is consistent with good coverage for the tubers and for
efficient flood irrigation where practiced. High steep ridges are subject to greater erosion and
more rapid drying due to the greater surface area exposed to the sun.
Wide flat-topped ridges, making adequate soil available for tuber development and tuber
protection are the most satisfactory.
Irrigation
Obviously for good yields of high-quality adequate water is required. Potatoes are sensitive ton
drought from tuber initiation to tuber maturity.
Potatoes are shallow rooted with a maximum root depth of 60cm. Lands should be brought up
to field capacity to this depth at planting. No further irrigation should be necessary during
emergence. From the start of the tuber development (first flower buds) the crop should be
watered regularly ensuring that all stress is avoided until the plants turn brown at maturity.
A guide to irrigation frequency and water requirements for fully canopied crops is given below:
Excessive watering should be avoided since this leads to undue leaching of plant nutrients and
reduces the keeping quality of potatoes.
It is important to avoid bursts of growth (either through irrigation of fertilization, as this tends
to increase the incidence of hollow heart.
Drip irrigation on potatoes is becoming widely used – please contact Seed Co agronomist for
more technical advice on this subject.
Potato Tubers Spray Guide
Stage Pre-Plant Planting to Early Leaves Rapid Canopy Tuber Complete canopy Maturation Agrochemical Rate/ha grams or Spray EU Days to
Initiation
emergence to flowering and Growth and tuber growth & Senescene ml/100 Lts Interval MRL Harvest
Days: -7 0-14 14-28 28-42 35-49 70-91 91-120 water @ 500 (days) mg/kg (phi)
Lts water/ha
Pest Problems
Actara 25 WG 400 gm 4 g/1,5Lts n/a 1 n/a
Nematodes drench water/100m furrow
Solvigo
Actara 25 WG foliar 200 gm 40 7-14 1-2 7
Soil Pest & Aphids spray
Actara Soil Drench
Ampligo 150 ZC 200-400 ml 40-80 14 2-4 7
Cutworm
Karate Zeon
Amistar Top 325 SC 500 ml 100 7-14 2-4
Leafminer - Lyriomyza Trigard / Dynamec
Bravo 720 SC 1.5 Lts 300 7-10 4-6 3
Dynamec 560 ml 115 14 3-4 3
Red Spider Mites Folio Gold 5 5 SC 2Lts 400 10 2-3 14
Dynamec / Polo
Karate37Zeon 5CS 100 ml in 150 Lts water 70 na 1 3
,
Potato Tuber Moth Match 050 EC 600 ml 120 10-14 2-4 7
Ampligo / Match / Proclaim
Maxim XL 035 FS 500 ml / ton tubers na 1 na
Aphids Polo / Ampligo / Actara Oritiva 600 - 800 ml 60 - 120 10 2-1 7
Polo 500 SC 500 ml 100 7 2 21
Disease Problems Proclaim 05 SG 250 g 50 7-14 2 1
Black &SilverScurfs: Revus 250 SC 500 ml 100 7-14 2-4 3
Maxim / Ortiva Drench
Soft rot, common scab Ridomil Gold MZ 68 WG 2.5 kg 100 7-14 1-2 14
Early blight / Alternaria Solvigo 3 Lts 50 n/a 1 n/a
Copper Oxy / Bravo / Amistar Top
Late Blight Trigard 75 WP 150 g 30 7-14 3-4 14

Foilo Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold
Dual Magnum 960 EC 1 Lts 200 na 1 na
virus complex Fusilade Forte 1.25 Lts 250 na 1 28
Actara Soil Drench
Gramoxone 2 Lts 400 na na
Weed Problems Touchdown 2 lts 400 na 28
Before planting - post * No of appl’ns = Number of applications per crop cycle; depend on problem pressure,
Touchdown
emergence perennials weather conditions and crops chemical alternations.

emergence annuals
Dual Magnum
Fusilade Forte
Dessication
Gramoxone
Rape
Rape | Page 84
Rape Production Guide
Soils
Rape performs well on in fertile loamy soils that have good drainage prepared to a fine tilth. The
soils should be worked deeply to about 45cm as the roots can penetrate up to 600mm deep.
Provide adequate irrigation and fertilization to maintain favorable soil moisture and nutrient
supply across the rooting zone. Soil PH should be between 5.5 - 6.5.
General
Rape can be grown throughout the year in Zimbabwe and favors day temperatures in the
range of 18° C – 30 °C and night temperature of 10 to 15 ° C.
Cultural Practices
excess rainfall. Planting on the flat in winter is acceptable. Soil moisture is an important factor in
rape production, hence, the level of available water in the root zone should not get below 50%
holding capacity before the next cycle. Careful planning of irrigation is necessary regarding soil
types and the time of year. Amounts of water to be applied vary from 18mm on sandy soils to
50mm on heavy soils per cycle. Rape needs lighter and more frequent irrigations more so than
many other crops.
Rape | Page 85
Planting
just under 4 weeks in the warmer months. Seedlings must be well hardened before planting.
Spacing
Planting on raised beds is recommended, and the beds can have 1.5m – 1.8m bed center to
bed center. Rows should be marked out on the top of the bed at 30cm to 40cm apart with
seedlings placed 20cm to 30cm in row, giving 80,000 to 130 000 plants per hectare.
Fertilization
A general recommendation is to use a basal dressing of compound “B”, compound "C",
compound "L" or compound "S" at a rate of 500 – 800kg per hectare
applied pre-planting. Preferably, broadcast and incorporate the basal fertilizer into
the soil before planting. Top dress with Ammonium Nitrate (AN) at a rate of 200 to 250kg
per hectare applied in three to four splits before first picking (day 7, 14, 21 and 28
after transplanting). Avoid excessive Nitrogen fertilizer application, particularly
after harvesting begins, as this can cause Nitrogen accumulation in the leaves,
which affects the taste of the leaves? Rape also responds very well to manure (compost,
chicken, goat or cattle), which can be applied at a rate of 10 000kg per hectare.
Harvesting
Harvesting starts about 30 days to 60 days after transplanting and the picking
period will depend on the variety and season. For example, harvesting of
Seed Co's Rape Rampart, can start from 30 days after transplanting and is
picked about eight times for almost 45 days. Rape is harvested when the
leaves have grown to a reasonable size. Harvest early morning before the day
temperature gets too hot or late in the evening when the leaves are not
showing any signs of wilting. Yield stretches from 70 000 to 110 000 saleable
20-25 leaf bundles.
Rape | Page 86
Transport and storage
If rape is being delivered in an open vehicle it should be covered with a
damp cloth-type cover to prevent wind burn and dehydration. If the delivery
vehicle has an insulated covered back be sure that the temperature inside does
not go too high as this can cause dehydration and wilting. Always store rape under
cool shade to minimize wilting at the marketplace.
Rape | Page 87
Rape Spray Guide
Rape | Page 88
Days: 0-42 25-42 40-70
Pest Problems
Nematodes Solvigo
Snails & Slugs

Disease Problems
Gramoxone/ Touchdown
emergence annuals
Dual Magnum
Spinach
Spinach| Page 89
Spinach Production Guide
Soils
Spinach performs well on a wide range of soils but favors fertile loam to sandy loam soils that
have good drainage prepared to a fine tilth. The soils should be worked deeply to about 45cm as
the roots can penetrate up to 600mm deep. Provide adequate irrigation and fertilization to
maintain favorable soil moisture and nutrient supply across the rooting zone. Soil PH should be
between 6.0 - 7.0 as spinach is sensitive to acidic soils.
General
Spinach can be grown throughout the year in Zimbabwe but favors cool
day temperatures in the range of 7 °C – 24 °C and night temperature around 5 °C to
7 °C. Temperatures above 30 °C reduces leaf size and quality.
Cultural Practices
excess rainfall. Planting on the flat in winter is acceptable. Soil moisture is an important factor in
spinach production, hence, the level of available water in the root zone should not get below
50% holding capacity before the next cycle. Careful planning of irrigation is necessary regarding
soil types and the time of year. Amounts of water to be applied vary from 18mm on sandy soils
to 50mm on heavy soils per cycle. Spinach needs lighter and more frequent irrigations more so
than many other crops.
Spinach | Page 90
Planting
just under 4 weeks in the warmer months. Seedlings must be well hardened before planting.
Spacing
Planting on raised beds is recommended, and the beds can have 1.5m –1.8m bed center to bed
center. Rows should be marked out on the top of the bed at 40cm to 50cm apart
with seedlings placed 25cm to 30cm in row, giving about 60 000 to 100 000
plants per hectare.
Fertilization
A general recommendation is to use a basal dressing of compound “B”, compound "C",
compound "L" or compound "S" at a rate of 500 – 800kg per hectare
applied pre-planting. Preferably, broadcast and incorporate the basal fertilizer into
the soil before planting. Top dress with Ammonium Nitrate (AN) at a rate of 200 to 250kg
per hectare applied in three to four splits before first picking (day 7, 14, 21 and 28
after transplanting). Avoid excessive Nitrogen fertilizer application, particularly
after harvesting begins, as this can cause Nitrogen accumulation in the leaves, which affects the
taste of the leaves. Spinach also responds very well to manure (compost, chicken, goat or
cattle), which can be applied at a rate of 20 000kg per hectare.
Harvesting
Harvesting starts about 90 days to 130 days after transplanting and the picking period goes up
to five months depending on the variety and season. Spinach is harvested when the leaves
have grown to a reasonable size which goes up to 35cm length by 25cm width. Harvest early
morning before the day temperature gets too hot or late in the evening when the leaves are not
showing any signs of wilting. Yield stretches from 80 000 to 100 000 saleable 15-20 leaf
bundles.
Spinach | Page 91
Transport and storage
If spinach is being delivered in an open vehicle it should be covered with a
damp cloth-type cover to prevent wind burn and dehydration. If the delivery
vehicle has an insulated covered back be sure that the temperature inside does
not go too high as this can cause dehydration and wilting. Always store spinach under
cool shade to minimize wilting at the marketplace.
Spinach | Page 92
spinach Spray Guide
Days: 0-42 25-42 40-70
Pest Problems
Nematodes Solvigo
Snails & Slugs

Disease Problems
Spinach | Page 93

Gramoxone/ Touchdown
emergence annuals
Dual Magnum
Squashes / Butternuts
Squashes / Butternuts| Page 94

Squashes / Butternuts Production Guide
Soil requirements
Butternuts prefer well drained sandy loam to loam soils with a high calcium content. Butternuts
like growing in soils with a PH value of between 5.5 to 6.3. If less than 5.5 agricultural lime
should be applied in accordance with soil analysis results. Low PH soils have Molybdenum and
Calcium deficiencies which reduce the keeping quality of the fruits. Soil temperatures are
important for good germination. Germination takes up to 3 weeks in soil temperatures between
10°C and 13°C, which makes the growth and management of the crop difficult. Soil
temperatures around 15°C will result in good germination of around 7 days. 20°C gives
maximum root development and even crops. Fields need to be prepared either by ploughing or
rip and disc. If direct seeding, soil should be worked to a good tilth without too many big clods. It
should be as level as possible to ensure even plant emergence, so irrigation or rainfall cannot
form puddles. Be careful of crusting at emergence a light irrigation may be necessary.
Climatic conditions
Butternuts are far less sensitive to unfavorable growing conditions than most other cucurbits.
Butternuts prefer a warm dry climate and best growing conditions are when the temperature is
between 20°C - 25°C with a maximum of 32°C, night temperatures not lower than 10°C. At
higher temperature range as indicated female flowers can abort and young fruit can wilt and
shrivel. There is a tendency for plants to produce fewer female flowers with high temperatures
and long days.
Planting time
For advice on varieties for seasons and the marketplace contact a Seed Co Agronomist for his
recommendations. Butternuts can be planted as soon as the risk of frost is over, and
temperatures are between the ranges stated earlier. Timing is important when planting so crops
can mature before the hot humid summer rainfall conditions form as this can result in serious
leaf disease problems. Aphids are usually a problem also at this time and can spread virus
diseases very quickly. Direct seeding makes the germinating seed susceptible to attack by
pathogens such as Fusarium and Rhizoctonia. Also rats and mice are a huge problem as they
dig up and eat the germinating seed. Baiting with rat poison for these pests is most important to
avoid heavy seed losses. A recommendation is for F1 hybrid seeds to be raised in a recognized
nursery because of the high cost of the seed. By doing speedlings early while soil temperatures
warm up the crop will be 2 – 3 weeks earlier than if direct seeded. Depth for direct planting of
seed is 25 – 30mm, for speedlings just cover to level of the top of the plug. Make sure good
plug to soil contact is achieved to ensure rapid take off seedlings in the fertilized enriched soil.
Squashes / butternuts | Page 95

Spacing
This depends on the cultivar, if it is a semi bush or vine type, the marketplace and the irrigation
system to be used. With overhead irrigation a single row 1.5m to 1.8m between rows and plants
0.5m to 0.8m in row. This gives a population of approximately 11,000 – 16,000 plants per
hectare. Semi bush types can be planted in double rows 0.5m- 0.6m apart with plants 0.5m
apart in row and 1.5m to 1.8m between the double rows. This gives 16,700 – 20,000 plants per
hectare. This can help with weed control and gives smaller fruits where this is desirable for the
marketplace.
Irrigation
As the butternut plant is of desert origin it has a determined root system. Butternut plants have a
deep tap root to utilize water deep down in the soil whereas the shallow fibrous root system
draws the water just below the surface. Butternuts irrigated by overhead sprinklers have root
systems which spread at much the same rate as the vines on the surface. Calcium will not be
easily available in over irrigated soil leading to calcium deficiency and blossom end rot. It is
usually preferable to under irrigate the crop while young except at the critical stage of fruit set
when the water amount should be increased. Clay soils tend to waterlog easily so let them dry
out to some extent between irrigations, to allow oxygen to re-enter the root zone. Sandy soils
require more regular irrigation to keep the soil moist. Loam to clay loam soils need only to be
watered every second day.
Fertilization
For a good crop of Butternuts, the plant will require some 200kg N: 50kg P: 500kg K, 120kg Ca
and 70kg Mg per hectare. A guide is to use 600/800kgs compound “D” per hectare. 3 top
dressings of 75kg per hectare AN at 3-5-7 weeks. All cucurbits are sensitive to Molybdenum
deficiency. Symptoms are stunted growth and overall yellowing of the leaves. If the PH is above
5.5 more Molybdenum will be available. Seedlings can be sprayed with Sodium Molybdate at
120g in 500 liters water per hectare, which should be enough, but a second spray can be done
at fruit set. Boron is essential for root hair growth through which Calcium is taken up. Boron can
be sprayed on shortly before fruit set and 2 – 3 weeks later. Boron deficiency is indicated by a
clear yellowish to light green rim to the leaf. Copper sprays can cause similar symptoms and
stunt leaves so be careful with excess copper sprays.
Squashes / Butternuts | Page 96

Under irrigation the crop will emerge more quickly and will mature earlier when planted shallow
and the seed covered by leveling the soil. Alternatively planting deeper but covering the seed
with 2.5 – 5cm of soil then re-ridging two- or three-times during growth will produce similar
Pollination
Bees are the main pollinators of the Butternut crop. Bees are thought to be responsible for
over 90%of its pollination. The female flower must be visited several times for efficient
pollination. The use of 2 to 3 beehives per hectare is recommended.
Harvesting
Butternuts usually take 85 to 100 days to harvest. Before the fruits are ready for harvest the stage of
ripeness should show the rind an even beige in color, with no green ground color or blotches, the stalk
hard but not dry. There may still be green stripes at the stem end. At this stage the fruits are suitable
to the local market, but the internal color will be slightly pale and keeping quality poor. To achieve a
high sugar content and a dark orange flesh leave the ripen on the vine. Once the green stripes on the
fruits have almost gone, plants can be left to dry out. If irrigation continues at this stage the fruits will
swell and crack. When harvesting cut the stalk 10 to 15mm above the thickened attachment to the
fruit, this cut must not leave sharp edges or a point which could pierce other fruits during handling and
storage.
Yields ranges from 30 to 45 tons per hectare.
Squashes / Butternuts | Page 97

Butternut Spray Guide
/Squashes
Days (Courgettes): -7 0-10 10-28 28-35 35-42 45-60
|Butternut
Days (Butternut): -7 0-10 10-42 42-49 49-56 100

s
Pest Problems:
89Page
Soil Pests
Nemetodes Solvigo
Actara Soil Drench
Cutworm
Karate Zeon
Leafminer
Trigard/Dynamec/
Red Spider Mites

Curacron/dynamec/Polo
Pumkin Fly
Lebaycid
Disease Problems
Damping Off Apron Star Seed Dress
Powdery Mildew Revus/Ridomil Gold/Folio
Anthracnose Bravo / Amistar Top / Score
Virus Complex Actara Soil Drench
Touchdown
emergence annuals
Fusilade Forte
Nutgrass (Yellow + Purple)

Servian
Sugar Bean
Sugar Bean | Page 99

Sugar Bean Production Guide
General Description
The dry bean is an important field crop because of its high protein content and dietary benefits.
Dry Beans are a warm season legume being upright or bush type plants. Small flowers are
produced in clusters at various nodes on the stalks and can be either white or lavender in color.
The flowers are self-pollinating. Flowering continues for 2 – 3 weeks, so there can be a mixture
of new pods, half developed pods and pods nearing full development. This calls for good
scouting for pest management. The first half of the growing period is vegetative development and
the latter half is reproduction. The crop matures in 85 to 120 days from planting. As the pods
mature, they change from green to light brown or tan. Each pod can contain 2-4 seeds. Yields
can vary from 600kg per hectare up to 1.5 tons per hectare.
Planting
Generally early January to late February in the Highveld and right through to mid- August in the
Low veld frost free areas. The soil temperature must be above 13°C for optimum germination
results. Dry Bean production requires a warm climate with temperatures between 18° C - 24° C.
The maximum temperature during the flowering period should not exceed 30° C as high
temperatures will cause flower drop and thus low pod set, resulting in depressed yields. Beans
require a minimum of 400mm to 500mm rain fall during its growing season but totals of 600mm
to 650mm is considered ideal. Irrigation is also required where the crop is growing out of the
rains and in winter production in the Low Veld area. The critical growth stage requiring rainfall or
irrigation is during flowering and pod set. Irrigation should stop when roughly 25% of the bean
pods have turned yellow.
Soil Preparation
The soil needs to be ploughed or ripped to a depth of 300mm then disced to get a good tilth, the
soil needs to be firm at planting and a level seedbed prepared to ensure even germination. A
level firm seed bed ensures good surface contact between the seed and soil. Planting depth of
the seed should be 2.5cm to 4.5cm below the soil surface
Spacing
The optimum spacing between rows is 75cm. A spacing of 90cm is also used when agricultural
machinery is set up for maize planting. Seed spacing in row is between 60mm to 75mm.
Generally, around 177,000 to 200,000 plants per hectare will give good results.

Fertilization
Beans will do best with a soil PH of 5.5 – 5.8. Beans are very sensitive to acidic soils. If the PH
is not at these levels, then apply lime as per the soil sample recommendations. Beans can be
planted into soils which have been well fertilized for previous crops though slight top ups at
planting will be beneficial. A rate of 250kg per hectare of Compound “D” drilled in with the
planter or broadcasted with a Vicon before the final discing before planting. Calcium Sulphate
(Gypsum) at 250kg per hectare as a top dressing just prior to flowering will help with pod set. If
a previous crops residue has been ploughed or disced in, then extra Nitrogen will be needed to
help composting or breaking down of the material. Discuss this with your Agronomist regarding
rates. Beans are not capable of satisfying all their Nitrogen requirements through Nitrogen
fixation hence the need for a basal fertilizer with good levels of N.
Weed Problems
This is very important in growing a dry bean crop. Bean plants compete poorly with weeds as
they are low growing and do not overshadow weeds. Weeds that are not controlled will interfere
with the harvesting and threshing of the crop.

Sugar Bean Spray Guide

Days: -7 0-10 10-40 30-40 40-60 +65
Pest Problems
Bean Stem Maggot Apron Star Seed Dress
Beetles Karate Zeon
Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec
Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo
Podworm & Caterpillars

Aphids & Whitefly Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Chess
Disease Problems
Seed/Soil Disease Apron Star Seed Dress
Rust Amistar Top/Bravo / Copper Oxy
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Fusilade Forte
Pre-emergence: grasses + Bateleur Gold

Broadleaf
Post-emergence: Servian
Nutgrass
Tunnel Tomato
Tunnel / Greenhouse Tomato | Page 103

Tunnel / Greenhouse Tomato Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution''
Varieties
This first step in tomato production is generally determined by market requirements, i.e. size,
truss, shelf life and marketers will need to be consulted before you make your decision.
Any variety chosen should ideally be an indeterminate type which means the plants will continue
growing indefinitely as long as pests and diseases are kept to a minimum and they have an
adequate nutrient supply. The bush or determinate type of tomatoes, traditionally grown
outdoors, are not recommended for growing in tunnels. Indeterminate varieties can last up to 8
months in a greenhouse. Seed Co recommends long shelf life tomatoes because they reduce
losses incurred by growers, supermarkets, hawkers, wholesalers etc. Long shelf tomatoes are a
must for most populations. Seed Co indeterminate tomato hybrids Oasis, Alambra and
Candela meet the yield and quality requirements of the Zimbabwean market.
Seedlings
Seedlings used for transplanting in tunnels must be strong, healthy and free from virus and
diseases. Seed planted during winter months will take a minimum of 8 weeks before
transplanting and those in summer months will take 5-6 weeks before they are ready for
transplanting. Timing of planting is determined by when the highest prices are achieved on the
fresh market. (In general, it takes 10-12 weeks from transplanting to first harvest). As soon as
seedlings are 12-15cm tall they are ready for transplanting.
There are several different options that may be used such as pine shavings (NOT sawdust or
pine bark). The most commonly used growing media is pine bark. It is a good inert media that
provides adequate aeration and due to the composting process is free of diseases.
Pre-enrichment of pine bark.

Per one m3 of 12mm pine bark (15 x 66-liter bags add the following: -
1 kg gypsum
0,88kg single super phosphate
2 kg calcitic lime

Containers
Tomatoes may be grown in a variety of different containers. The ones most popular are the black
grow bags (10-15 liter) and sausages.
Order them without holes and then perforate at 1.5” above the ground. This acts as a reservoir in
case of electricity interruptions or other delays in irrigation. This is a tube of black plastic of 150-
200 micron thick and diameter of 37cm. Cut into 2,1m lengths and tie at one end. Pine bark must
be well compacted into the bag before tying the other end and cutting the planting holes. Seedling
holes cut every 40cm apart using a jam tin will give 5 plants/sausage. Drainage holes must be
placed 1 1⁄2” from the ground using a pencil or wire. These holes should only be inserted on one
side of the sausage which then drains into a furrow. This prevents the pathways becoming flooded
and reduces the clean-up operation required to mop up stagnant water.
Planting
The growing media should be well irrigated with stage 1 nutrient solution prior to planting in the
bags. The twine should be planted under the seedlings where the roots will soon anchor it down.
This is not necessary in the case of the sausages where twine can be tied around the bag. Plant
spacing in row is 40cm with 60cm between double rows. The pathway between double rows
varies between 1,3 – 1,6m. In an 8m wide greenhouse the maximum number of rows is 8 (4
double rows).
Fertilizer
Growing tomatoes in a soilless media requires greater management than those grown in soil.
There is very little margin for error as there is no clay portion to act as a buffer or store for residual
nutrients. An essential management tool is an EC meter which gives the grower an indication of
fertilizer going into the bag and a measure of how much is coming out in the leachate.
Every time water is applied it must contain fertilizer. Before giving a fertilizer recommendation it is
important that the irrigation water is analyzed. A good laboratory to use is Analytical Laboratories
11A Downing Road, Greendale, Harare.
Fertilization is split into 2 stages: -

rd
1. Stage 1: Planting to 3 flowering
truss. Target level (ppm)
Bicarb N P 20 5 K 20 Ca Mg + Micronutrients
61 160 100 270 130 60
Tunnel / greenhouse Tomato | Page 105

2. Stage 2: Third flowering truss onwards.
(ppm)
Bicarb N P 20 5 K 20 Ca Mg + Micronutrients
Target level 61 160 90 320 130 65
Regular sprays of calcium nitrate @ 10g per liter to prevent blossom end rot will also be
necessary. These solutions can be made up from water soluble products obtainable from
horticultural outlets. The micronutrients are supplied in a pre-mixed state called Omnispoor @
20g/1000 liters. Concentrated stock solutions must be made up in separate tanks as calcium
cannot be mixed with phosphates and sulphates.
Electrical Conductivity (EC)

The EC of the fertigation solution must be checked regularly in order to monitor the fertilizer going
onto the plants is correct and that there has not been a mistake in making up of stock solutions.
When the leachate EC is 0,2 of a unit higher than fertigation EC, then the fertilizer must be
reduced by 20%. If the leachate EC is 0,2 lower than the fertilizer must be increased by 20%.
Irrigation
There are numerous irrigation designs that may be used but the only container that lends itself to
using drip tape is the sausage. The system must be able to give the plants 2,5–3 liters per day at
maximum production in summer. Young plants will use 300-500mls per day. This is usually
applied in two applications. As the demand for water increases so the number of applications per
day will also increase. Water usage by the plants is monitored by collecting the amount of leachate
draining from the bag. The minimum quantity of leachate should be 10% of the water given to the
plant. A maximum of 20% emittance is required to prevent loss of expensive fertilizer, e.g. if
500mls is applied to each plant then the quantity of leachate should be 50-100 mls.
Sanitation
This is vitally important in order to maintain a healthy crop for a long period of time. Simple
measures may be put in place to prevent devastation of a crop by virus and diseases. A selection
of different chemicals may be used such as Sodium Hypochlorite, Sporekill and Terminator.
Personnel from Cernol Chemicals give good advice on rates and selection of chemicals.
Tunnel / greenhouse Tomato | Page 106

Removal of leaves/fruit
It is important to remove leaves at the bottom of the plant as they interrupt the flow of air and
are a source of infection by Botrytis. The removals should be done on a fortnightly basis and
not more than 2 leaves at a time to be removed. When the first cluster shows signs of ripening,
the leaves may be removed right up to the cluster. There should always be 1,5m of healthy,
functioning leaves on the plant. Some varieties of tomatoes may produce many flowers per
truss. It is important to prune small fruit to maintain size and quality of the remaining tomatoes.
In truss tomatoes such as Ikram, normally fruit are pruned to 6 tomatoes per truss.
Pollination
Bee activity in tunnels is restricted so mechanical pollination is required. This can easily be
done twice a day by tapping the overhead wire along its length. It’s important not to try and
pollinate too early in the morning as pollination does not readily occur below 20° C.
Picking and Post-Harvest Handling

Tomatoes should be picked when the bottom tip of the fruit have turned orange pink. The fruit
will then turn light red in 2-3 days. In summer, picking will be 2 or 3 times a week but only once
a week in winter. Picking should be done in the cool of the day and the tomatoes then stored at
cool temperatures. Temperatures below 7oC can result in poor fruit quality with a short shelf life.

Greenhouse Tomatoes Guide
Days: 0-35 28-36 30-60 60-65 65-70 70-125
Pest Problems
Nematodes
Solvigo
Soil Pests & Aphids

Cutworms
Karate Zeon
Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec
Red Spider Mites


Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon / Proclaim
Aphids & Whitefly

Actara Soil Drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Polo
Disease Problems
Early Blight Copper Oxychloride / Bravo / Amistar Top
Late Blight Folio Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold
Leaf spots; Powdery

Amistar Top
Mildew
Virus Complex Actara Soil Drench / Dip
Touchdown
emergence annuals
Dual Magnum
Fusllade Forte
Codal Gold
& broadleaf
Watermelon
Watermelon | Page 109

Watermelons Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution''
Introduction
Watermelons are mainly grown at outdoors. To supply an early market the use of low plastic
tunnels can advance the culture by creating a suitable microclimate and raising the soil
temperature.
Soil
Well-drained soils with good aeration and moisture retention are preferred. A timely addition of
organic material, well decomposed, can help in obtaining the right soil structure. A slight acid to
nuetral pH (6.5-7.0) in the soil, provides best growing conditions. Work the soil deeply to create
optimal conditions for root development.
Fertilizers
Before planting apply approx. 50t/ha of organic material e.g. farm manure. When (according to a
recent soil analysis) the soil has a good balance of available nutrients watermelons need
approx.:
- before planting 60 kg/ha N 130 kg/ha P2O5 200 kg/ha K2O
- after planting 100 kg/ha N 0 kg/ha P2O5 150 kg/ha K2O
total 160 kg/ha N 130 kg/ha P2O5 350 kg/ha K2O
If, during the culture, it becomes apparent that one of the elements is de cient, apply top dressing.
Also, if necessary, apply approx. 40 kg/ha MgO.
Sowing
Next to direct sowing, consideration should be given to the use of transplants. Sowing can be done
in pressed peat blocks or in tray cells. Size of block should be 5x5 cm. Water the planting medium
thoroughly and allow to drain for 4-6 hours before sowing. After sowing the optimal air temperature
should be at least 25 C, although outdoors this is difficult to regulate. Transplanting can take place
3-4 weeks late when the young plant has 3-4 true leaves. Harden-off the plants before planting. This
can be done by lowering the greenhouse temperature, reducing irrigation, or moving the plants
outside to increase their exposure to field conditions. When sown directly make sure that the soil
temperature is at least 20 C.
Plant Spacing
Plant spacing in the field will vary depending upon location, cultural practices and production
equipment used. Rows are 2.0-2.5 m apart with 1.0-1.2 plants per running meter (5000 pl/ha),
Placing windbreaks to protect the crop proves beneficial. Fruit-setting is improved by placing
beehives in the field (3-4) beehives per ha).

Irrigation
Irrigate as necessary by means of sprinkler, a drip or furrow system. After transplanting irrigate
immediately to allow the young plant to develop their roots. It is advisable not to irrigate from the
time of sowing or planting until the first fruit setting. This will stimulate the roots to penetrate deeply
into the moisture level of the soil, irrigate well after fruit setting and during further development.
Avoid irrigation immediately before harvesting, as this will affect the quality of the fruits.
Harvest
Harvest the watermelons just before they reach maturity. They will riper sufficiently during transport.
To maintain a good quality watermelon, harvest early in the morning to avoid heat. If watermelons
are stored under controlled temperature conditions do not let the temperature drop below 10OC to
avoid chilling injury.

Watermelons | Page 112
General Agronomy
Crop Seeds/kg Sowing In-row Row spacing Yield Days to

(≈) Seeds/g (≈) Seeds/ha depth (cm) spacing (cm) (cm) (t/ha) maturity
Rape 250 000 250 to 300 200g 0.5-0.5 25-50 45-60 15-20 90
Cabbage 300 000 190 to 300 100g 0.5-1.5 40-70 60-90 130-150 90
Butternut 8 000 7 to 15 1.5-2kg 3cm 50-70 120-150 25-30 50
Tomato 350 000 250 to 380 100g 0.6cm 30-40 150 90-130 80-120
Cucumber 35 000 30 to 45 1kg 3cm 45-60 100-120 25-35 40-60
Onion 290 000 250 to 400 4kg 1.5 5 to 8 20-30 40-70 210
Carrot 950 000 400 to 1200 2kg 1-1.5 3 to 8 20-30 30-50 120
Okra 19 000 15 to 25 8kg 2 45 75 10 80
Broccoli 275, 000 315 200g 1-1.5 25-50 45-60 8 to 15 80
Cauliflower 300 000 250 to 350 100g 0.5-1.5 40-70 60-90 20-25 80
Watermelon 17 000 6 to 20 3-4kg 2.5cm 90-150 180-200 40-60 80-90
Pepper 150 000 150 to 200 200g 0.6 40-45 45-75 25-35 70
Eggplant 230 000 200 to 250 200g 1cm 45-60 60-75 25-30 75
Lettuce 850 000 600 to 1200 150g 0.6cm 20-30 30-60 25-30 75
Swiss Chard 150 000 150 5kg 3cm 7 to 15 30-45 20 45
Peas 4 500 4 to 5 40-50kg 3 3 to 7 60-90 5 to 8 70
Fine Beans 4 500 4 to 5 60-100kg 1 to 2 5 to 10 30-40 12 to 15 60-85
Contacts
We are available at the following places

HARARE HARARE HARARE
PHYSICAL ADDRESS
318 Hillside Road 136 Robert Mugabe Road
No. 1 Shamwari Road Msasa, Harare Harare
Stapleford, Harare Zimbabwe
Tel: +263-4-333262 Tel: +263-4-7903
335279, 307619 Tel: +263-4-480501/2
POSTAL ADDRESS BULAWAYO MUTARE

Selous Building
P.O. Box BW 1798
Jason Moyo & 10th Avenue
Borrowdale, Harare
Bulawayo 11 Jameson Road Mutare
Tel: 0777 020 639
Sales and Marketing Team

Name Area Contact Number
Beauty K Magiya Head Office 0772 339326
Silas Mutota Harare 0773 437 948
Masimba Kanyepi Mash West & Central 0772 813 232
Clemence Mucharedzeyi Manicaland 0773 525355
Bright Musakanda Midlands & Masvingo 0777 306020
Clive Muchogo Bulawayo 0773 561813
Tariro Mapfumba Harare 0774 664592

Vegetable Production Guides - Prime Seedco Booklet (2020)

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VEGETABLE

Soil and Fertilizer

P205 (ppm 30-40

K2O (meq 0.2-0.4

Baby Corn | Page 2

Agro-chemicals for Baby Corn

Baby Corn | Page 3

Grading and Packing

22.7% dry matter containing:

5.7% total protein

Baby Corn | Page 4

Actara Soil drench

Copper Oxychloride 3kg 600 20 2

Post-emergence: grasses Fusilade Forte

Soil Pests & Aphids

Diamond Back Moth Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

General Caterpillars Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

Bacterial Black Rot

Carrots Spray Guide

Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil drench

Cutworms Karate Zoom / Ampligo

Soil Pests & Aphid

Cutworms Karate Zeon / Ampligo

Diamond back Moth Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

General Caterpillars Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

Aphids Actara Soil drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo

Bacterial Black Rot Bion / Copper Oxy

Downy Mildew Revus / Ridomil / Folio Gold / Bravo

Club Root Quintozene

Post-emergence: grasses Fusilade Forte

Nutgrass (Yellow) Dual Magnum

Advantages of trellised cucumbers are: -

Cucumber Spray Guide

Soil Pests Actara Soil Drench

Cutworms Karate Zeon

Red Spider Mites

Field Tomato | Page 29

Field Tomato | Page 30

Field Tomato | Page 32

Field Tomato | Page 33

Field Tomato Spray Guide

Stage Nursery Transplanting Vegetative First Flowers First Fruits Fruiting

Days: 0-35 28-36 30-60 60-65 65-70 70-125

Soil Pests & Aphids

Red Spider Mites

Fruitworm & Caterpillars

Aphids & Whitefly

Bacterial Complex Bion / Copper Oxychloride

Early Blight Copper Oxychloride / Bravo / Amistar Top

Late Blight Folio Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold

Leaf spots; Powdery

Green Bean | Page 35

Green Bean | Page 36

Pests and Diseases

Green Bean | Page 37

Green Bean Spray Guide

Bean Stem Maggot

Red Spider Mites

Podworm & Caterpillars

Aphids & Whitefly

Bacterial Complex Amistar Top / Score

Anthracnose Bravo / Amistar Top

Rust Amistar Top/Bravo / Copper Oxy