quTaisis saxelmwifo istoriuli muzeumis

Sromebi

krebuli XXVIII

WORKS
OF THE KUTAISI STATE HISTORICAL MUSEUM

EDITION XXVIII

quTaisi _ KUTAISI
2018-2019
296 quTaisis saxelmwifo istoriuli muzeumis Sromebi

eliso CubiniZe, irina ugrexeliZe, ana doRonaZe,

margalita msxilaZe, nona qarciZe

namagri siTvis saxeebi qarTul oqroqargulobaSi

Zvel qarTul naqargobaze ZiriTadi adgili naqargobis im saxeobas uWiravs, romelsac

„namagri siTvi~ ewodeba. qargvis es teqnikuri xerxi, misi saxelwodebidan gamomdinare,
naTlad migvaniSnebs, rom xorcieldeba erTi saxeobis Zafis meore saxeobis ZafiT (damxmare
ZafiT) Camagrebis gziT. qargvis procesi qargaze mimdinareobs da mis zomas gansazRvravs
mosaqargi aris sidide. naqargobis rTul kompoziciebs mxatvari asrulebs. istoriulad
aseT pirovnebebs „saxeTa gamomyvanebi“ erqvaT, xolo naqargobaze warweris damwerebs
_ „sityvaTa damweri“ ewodebodaT. amosaqargi gamosaxulebebis datana xdeba qargaze
gadaWimul qsovilze. mosaqargi saxeebi erTdroulad fiqsirdeba qsovilsa da samuSao
tiloze wvrili gviristebiT. uZvelesi saqargavi masala, romelsac namagri siTviT qargvis
dros gamoiyenebdnen, oqrosa da vercxlis Tma an oqromkedi da vercxlmkedi iyo. „mkedi“
abreSumis momsxo Zafs warmoadgens, romelzec mijriT daxveulia gabrtyelebuli oqros
Tma, e.w. sxepla. oqromkediT sruldeba mxolod erTmxrivi naqargoba _ namagri siTvi,
radgan qsovilSi liTonis Zafis gatarebis Sedegad SesaZloa daziandes, rogorc qsovili,
ise oqromkedi [meliqiSvili i. 2011:].
Qqargvis procesis dawyebamde aucilebelia oqromkedis Camagreba dasaqargi qsovilis
zedapirze. Camagreba sxvadasxvagvarad xorcieldeba. liTonis Zafebs waRma pirze amagreben,
Zalze iSviaTad iyeneben qsovilSi gasatareblad. Ooqromkedi SeiZleba Camagrdes ukuRma
pirze (rodesac SesaZlebelia qargis ukuRma pirze gadabruneba), risTvisac is msxvilyunwiani
nemsis saSualebiT, an damxmare Zafis maryuJiT gaeyreba qsovilSi, im adgilze, saidanac
unda daiwyos naySi da damxmare Zafis (romelic Tavis mxriv ukve Camagrebulia) patara
gviristulebiT Camagrdeba. did zomis naqargobaze muSaobisas (rodesac SeuZlebelia qargis
ukuRma pirze gadabruneba) qsovilis waRma piridan ukuRma pirze gatanili oqromkedis
bolos amagreben damxmare Zafis 2-3 patara gviristulis saSualebiT, im adgilze, romelic
Semdgom daifareba naqargobiT (sur. 1, a). oqromkedis Camagreba aseve SesaZlebelia
damxmare Zafis CamagrebasTan eraTad ganxorcieldes. amisaTvis qsovilis ukuRma pirze
gatanili oqromkedi unda moetnas damxmare Zafis gviristulaSi. am ukanasknelis waRma
pirze darCenil mokle bolos Camagrebis Sedegad (meore patara gviristuliT, an pirveli
gviristulis marTobulad gakeTebul gviristulaSi motneviT) oqromkedi dafiqsirdeba
qsovilis ukuRma pirze (sur. 1, b). am dros SeiZleba ramdenime damatebiTi gviristulis
gakeTeba, riTac namagri ufro mtkice xdeba (es adgili ifareba naqargobiT).
oqromkediTa da vercxlmkediT qargvis teqnika Zalze mravalferovania, magram mTeli
mravalferovneba SesaZloa dayvanil iqnas sam ZiriTad saxeobaze, esenia: sipiT naqargi, anu
naWedi siTvi, gayofili siTvi da reliefuri siTvi (sur. 2).
sipiT naqargi (moyinuli), igive naWedi siTvi _ gluvi oqrovani naqargobaa, romelic
tovebs naWedis STabeWdilebas da axasiaTebs grafikuloba. is warmoiqmneba ori saxis Zafis
_ saqargavi oqromkedisa da samuSao (Casamagrebeli) Zafis garkveuli wesiT moZraobisa
da gadaxlarTvis Sedegad. Casamagreblad gamoiyeneba Slili abreSumis Zafi. samuSaos
krebuli XXVIII 297
dawyebamde xdeba saqargavi Zafis _ oqromkedis Camagreba qsovilze zemoT aRwerili (sur. 1)
romelime xerxis saSualebiT. amis Semdeg gamoiyeneba namagri siTvis teqnika, romlis drosac
oqromkedis erTi, ori an sami wveri naxatis konturis mixedviT paralelur bmuladebad
efineba dasaqarg areze da samuSao ZafiT magrdeba qsovilze, mosaqargi gamosaxulebis
konturis gaswvriv. Camagrebis sxvadasxva wesi arsebobs, romlebic erTmaneTisagan
gansxvavdebian Casamagrebeli Zafis oqromkedze Semotarebis mimarTulebiT:
a. nemsi _ samuSao ZafiT ukuRma piridan amodis naxatis konturis xazze, Semotardeba
oqromkedis irgvliv _ im mimarTulebiT, rogorc naCvenebia sur. 3, a-ze, imave nasvretiT
brundeba ukan da Tan moWimavs oqromkeds. amis Semdeg masra oqromkediT unda gadaidos
sapirispiro mxares da yvelaferi ganmeordes Tavidan. am dros sayuradReboa Casamagrebeli
Zafis oqromkedze Semotarebis mimarTuleba: rodesac oqromkedi daefineba vertikalurad,
nemsi samuSao ZafiT amodis qsovilidan oqromkedis marjvniv, Semoexveva mas da oqromkedis
marcxniv _ imave nasvretiT brundeba ukan. horizontalurad ganlagebuli oqromkedis
Camagrebis SemTxvevaSi nemsi samuSao ZafiT amodis qsovilidan oqromkedis zeda mxares, ukan
brundeba mis qveda mxares, imave nasvretiT. e.i. nemsi yovelTvis akeTebs moZraobas ukan _
oqromkedis dafenis mimarTulebis sawinaaRmdegod. am dros oqromkedi sul umniSvnelodaa
gasuli ukuRma mxares, amitom Zalze mniSvnelovania samuSao Zafis daWimulobis SegrZnoba.
b. oqromkedis bolos qsovilis ukuRma pirze Camagrebis Semdeg, am wertilis sapirispiro
mxares _ naxatis konturze nemsi, samuSao ZafiT, ukuRma piridan gamotardeba waRma pirze,
Semouvlis oqromkeds irgvliv, im mimarTulebiT, rogorc naCvenebia sur. 3, b-ze da isev
gatardeba ukuRma mxares, wina nasvretis maxloblad (am dros nemsi igive nasvretiT ar
brundeba ukuRma mxares _ oqromkedis qsovilSi gatarebis Tavidan acilebis mizniT), ris
Semdegac nemsi ornamentis sapirispiro mxares kvlav gamotardeba waRma pirze, magram ara
oqromkedis wina bmuladTan mijriT, aramed misgan moSorebiT _ oqromkedis sisqis tol
manZilze, wertilSi 1 (sur. 3, g). amavdroulad masra oqromkediT unda gadaidos sapirispiro
mxares da oqromkedi dasaqarg areze daefinos wina gviristulis paralelurad. nemsi
samuSao ZafiT Semotardeba oqromkedis irgvliv, ise rogorc naCvenebia sur. 3, g-ze da
isev gatardeba ukuRma mxares, wina gviristulasTan mijriT, wertilSi 2, e.i. nemsi akeTebs
bijs ukan. amis Semdeg procesi meordeba. Tuki Camagreba sworadaa Sesrulebuli, maSin
oqromkedi Tavad motrialdeba saWiro mxares.
g. namagri siTviT qargvisas SesaZloa gamoyenebul iqnas, rogorc erTwveri, ise
orwveri Zafi. orwveri oqromkedis Casamagreblad umjobesia samuSao Zafis Casamagrebeli
gviristula ganlagdes gamosaxulebis konturis marTobulad, rogorc naCvenebia sur. 3,
d-ze. gviristulas sigrZe milimetrze mcire unda iyos. ormagi oqromkediT qargvisas
sayuradReboa, rom ar moxdes oqromkedis Zafis gadagrexva.
bmuladebi unda dalagdes Zalian mWidrod, dacilebis gareSe, an erTmaneTis gadafarvis
gareSe. horizontaluri figurebis qargvisas samuSao sruldeba marcxnidan marjvniv,
oqromkedi daefineba vertikalurad; vertikaluri figurebis qargvisas _ iqargeba
qvevidan zeviT. oqromkedi daefineba horizontalurad. am dros Zalze sayuradRebo da
aucileblad gasaTvaliswinebelia Semdegi momenti: horizontalur figurebSi, rodesac
oqromkedi simaRlezea (vertikalurad) ganlagebuli ufro Zlier moiWimeba qveda
Casamagrebeli Zafi, xolo zeda ufro naklebad. Sesabamisad, horizontalurad dafenili
oqromkedis Camagrebisas marjvniv ganlagebuli Casamagrebeli Zafi moiWimeba ufro Zlier,
298 quTaisis saxelmwifo istoriuli muzeumis Sromebi

vidre marcxniv. im SemTxvevaSi, rodesac dasaqargi ornamentis konfiguracia talRovani,

an daxveulia, oqromkedi unda daefinos maraosebrad: simrgvalis Siga (ufro patara)
mxares gviristulebi erTmaneTTan Zalze mWidrod lagdeba, xolo gare mxares _ Tanabrad
gaSlilia, amavdroulad gviristebs Soris adgili (RreCo) ar unda darCes. aseTi zedapiris
faqizad da Tanabrad daqargvisaTvis aucilebelia windawin talRovani formis nimuSebze
varjiSi.
gayofili siTvi CamagrebiT sruldeba _ gayofis adgilze samuSao ZafiT oqromkedi
qsovilze Camagrebulia moWimviT (am dros ar Cans Camagrebis Zafi da oqromkedi Cayvanilia
qsovilis zedapirSi) da warmoqmnilia reliefuri naqargi (sur. 4). Cveulebriv gayofili
siTvi nafeniT (Tokis, an muyaos nafeniT) sruldeba. stilizebul mcenareul ornamentSi
gayofis mTliani, uwyveti xazi rogorc wesi sruldeba foTlebisa da yvavilis furclebis
Suaxazze. es xazi zogjer klanWuriT, an kilitebiT ifareba.
gayofil siTvs formebis Sesavsebad iyeneben (sur. 5). ornamentis fragmenti Sevsebulia
erTnairi zomis gamyofi xazebiT, romlebic ganlagebulia Wadrakulad, erTmaneTTan
mijrili oqromkedis bmuladebis daTvliT.
Camagrebis bmuladebis sxvadasxvagvari ganlagebiT SesaZlebelia warmoqmnil iqnas
esa Tu is naySi da ornamenti. namagri siTvi Ziriadad keTdeba nafenze. namagri siTviT
qargvisas Casamagrebeli Zafi ar aris daWimuli, aramed datovebulia qsovilis zedapirze
Tavisuflad. samuSao Zafis bmuladebi moWimvisas warmoqmnian Cazneqil xazs, xolo
oqromkedis bmuladebi mbzinav, reliefurad amozidul zedapirs. Zafis daWimulobis
mixedviT SeiZleba miRebul iqnas metnaklebad reliefuri ornamenti. rodesac ufro
mkafiod gamokveTili gamosaxulebis da ara reliefis miRebaa saWiro, Casamagreblad
gamoyenebuli unda iqnas kontrastuli feris abreSumis orwveri Zafi. oqromkedi Zlier
ar iWimeba, Camagrebis bmuladebi mkafiod moCans da warmoiqmneba oqros fonze abreSumiT
naqargi naySis STabeWdileba.
reliefuri siTvi sruldeba oqrosa da vercxlis Tmis, oqromkedisa da vercxlmkedis
qveS, dasaqarg qsovilze sasurveli reliefis Sesabamisi nafenis dadebiT. nafeni SeiZleba
iyos Zafis (sxvadasxva sisqis bambis Segrexili Zafi), muyaos, qaRaldis, bawris. swored
am teqnikuri xerxebis gamoyenebiT Rebuloben sxvadasxva sisqis reliefur naqargobas.
oqromkedis qveS sasurvelia yviTeli nafenis (Zafis an muyaos) dafena, vercxlmkedis qveS
_ nacrisfris, raTa SeumCneveli iyos oqromkedis an vercxlmkedis gacveTis, an meCxerad
ganlagebis SemTxvevaSi.
reliefuri siTviT qargvisas, rodesac nafenad bambis Zafia gamoyenebuli, saWiroa
naxatis konturis winaswar Semogviristeba, dasaqargi aris nafenis ZafiT daliandageba,
Tanabari simWidrovis sablandavi gviristiT (sur. 6) da Semdeg oqromkediT mosiTva.
nafenad muyaos gamoyenebis SemTxvevaSi muyao unda iyos myari da aramsxvrevadi. muyaos
nacvlad xSirad iyeneben sxvadasxva masalas: sqel tilos, tyavs, ramdenime fena qaRalds,
aryis xis qerqs, Teqas da sxva uqsovad masalas. muyaoze daitaneba ornamentis naxati da
gamoiWreba Zalze guldasmiT, faqizad. Tuki kompoziciis mixedviT moyinuli siTvi (sur.
7) unda gakeTdes, maSin SesaZlebelia muyao qsovilze iqnas dawebebuli. dawebeba Zalze
faqizad unda ganxorcieldes, raTa qsovilze ar darCes webos kvali. rodesac ornamentuli
namagri siTvia saWiro, umjobesia muyaos miwebeba saxameblis an polivinilacetatis webo-
emulsiiT, radganac es weboebi ar warmoqmnian magar apks. dawebebisas saWiroa detalis
krebuli XXVIII 299
ramdenime xniT simZimis qveS dayovneba. aseve, SeiZleba ramdenime adgilze, gansakuTrebiT
iq, sadac naxats maxvili kuTxe aqvs, muyao wminda ZafiT daekeros qsovilze. muyaoze
winaswar daixateba naxati, naySi da moiqargeba moyinuli (sur. 8, a), an gayofili siTviT
(sur. 8, b). am dros aucilebelia muyaos gasaxvretad sadgisis gamoyeneba. Zafisa da Tokis
nafenze qargvisas Camagrebas axdenen Zafebis daTvliT.
bawarze reliefurad qargvisas nafenad gamoiyeneba msxvili Zafebi, wvrili bawrebi, an
Tasmebi (yaiTnebi).
naxats avseben Tokis Tanabrad dacilebuli rigebiT, romelTac amagreben napira
gviristiT. Semdeg Tokebis marTobulad mWidrod ganalageben oqromkeds, romelsac
amagreben Tokebs Soris, naySis Sesabamisad _ Tokebis daTvliT (sur 10). Tokze qargvisas
ufro reliefuri ornamenti miiReba. gansakuTrebiT maRali reliefi warmoiqmneba,
rodesac namagri siTviT qargvisas oqromkedi kargadaa gadakruli nafenze da moWimulia
ise, rom qsovilSi Sesulia da samuSao Zafi zedapirze ar Cans. rac ufro msxvilia Toki,
miT moculobiTia naqargoba [CubiniZe e. 2017].
roca nafeni wvrili TokiT, an wvrili TasmiT keTdeba, is SeiZleba ukuRma pirze
gatardes da ormxrivi siTvis msgavsad, SedarebiT meCxerad daifaros naxati. msxvili Tokis
gamoyenebis SemTxvevaSi, mas zevidan afenen da amagreben Tanabrad ganlagebuli, mouWimavi,
meCxeri iribi gviristulebiT. aseTi Camagrebis SemTxvevaSi nafeni ar Seicvlis mdgomareobas
da SemdgomSi, oqromkediT damuSavebisas ar dairRveva ornamentis moculobiTi forma,
naySi.
Tokebi SesaZloa sxvadasxvagvarad ganlagdes, erTmaneTTan mWidrod, an SedarebiT
meCxerad, moTxovnili efeqtis Sesabamisad, magram aucileblad erTnairad calkeuli
fragmentisaTvis. Tokis nafeniT qargva gamoiyeneba naxatis irgvliv Semosaqargad. am dros
naxatis konturze magrdeba Toki, an Tasma, romelic Semdeg oqromkediT daifareba dabali
reliefuri siTviT.
xSirad ornamentis detalebs, romlebic nafenzea Sesrulebuli Semokalmaven
oqromkedis grexili TasmiT. grexils amagreben uSualod qsovilze, Seumneveli meCxeri
gviristulebiT. xandaxan oqromkediT Semokalmvisas akeTeben patara maryuJebs, romlebsac
amagreben Sexamebuli feris patara gviristulebiT (sur. 10). aseTi Semokalmva aumjobesebs
ornamentis sqeli formidan qsovilze gadasvlis adgilis garegnul saxes.
reliefuri naqargobis saxesxvaobaa maRali nafeniT qargva, romliTac miiReba ufro
moculobiTi efeqti. am saxeobis naqargobisaTvis calke amzadeben formas muyaos an sqeli
qsovilis ramdenime fenisagan. masze SemoWimaven da daamagreben oqromkediT naqarg
qsovils. Semdeg ki mza formas miakereben saWiro adgilze. ufro xSirad am saxeobas iyenebdnen
unagiris, asalis, gadasafareblebis da misTanaTa dasaqargavad, ufro iSviaTad saeklesio
nivTebisaTvis. sruldeba mZime qovilebze _ xaverdze, maudze, mWidro oqroqsovilebsa da
tyavze [meliqiSvili 2016:].
rogorc vxedavT, oqromkediT qargvis teqnika arsebiTad gansxvavdeba qargvis sxva te-
qnikebisgan. meTodika xelmisawvdomi ar iyo qarTuli naqargobis teqnikiT dainteresebuli
sazogadoebisaTvis. qarTuli saeklesio qargulobis meTodebisa da xerxebis Teoriuli da
praqtikuli kvlevis Sedegad SeiZleba davaskvnaT, rom teqnikis srulfasovanma Seswavlam
mniSvnelovnad unda gansazRvros Tanamedrove qarTuli saeklesio da saero naqargobis
stili da mxatvruli Rirebuleba. vfiqrobT, rom Cvens mier Sedgenili meToduri miTiTeba
300 quTaisis saxelmwifo istoriuli muzeumis Sromebi

daxmarebas gauwevs qarTuli tradiciuli naqargobis Seswavlis msurvelT da mogvcems imis

SesaZleblobas, rom Tavidan aviciloT samoyvarulo doneze swavlebis mokle kursis dros
warmoSobili mosalodneli Secdomebi.

gamoyenebuli literatura
1. lanCava o., CubiniZe e., ugrexeliZe i. da sxv. „Zveli qarTuli naqargoba“ quTaisi.
2017.
2. meliqiSvili i.Dda sxv. „qarTuli naqargoba“ Tb. 2011.
3. meliqiSvili i. da sxv. „mxatvruli qargva“  ssip ganaTlebis xarisxis ganviTarebis
erovnuli centri Tb. 2016.
4. CubiniZe e., ugrexeliZe i. „qarTuli naqargobis teqnika“ quTaisi. 2017.

ELISO CHUBINIDZE, IRINA UGREKHELIDZE, ANNA DOGHONADZE,

MARGALITA MSKHILADZE, NONA KARTSIDZE

KINDS OF SATIN STITCH IN GEORGIAN GOLDWORK

Techniques of doing satin stitch seem to take a prominent part in old Georgian needlework, which is carried
out with an outline of one kind of yarn woven in and out of another one. Traditionally embroiders used gold
twine or silver thread while doing satin stitches. Variety of techniques of embroidery through goldthread and
silver thread can be limited to the following: chain satin stitch, outline stitch and padded satin stitch.
Chain satin stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique in which a series of looped stitches form a
tight  chain-like pattern. It is smooth-surfaced couchwork in gold thread, which leaves the impression of hammer
forged metal patterns without overlapping and with minimum separation between loops. The beginning and end
of goldthread stitches are fixed through fastening the yarn and hiding them inside the pieces.
Outlined Satin stitches are separated on a small part and goldthread is fastened via additional thread that is
invisible and goldthread is woven inside the cloth. Outlined satin stitch (with a layer of rope and cardboard)
is a stitch made by overlapping backstitches with a pattern like the twist of a rope and shaded satin stitch and
form a highly padded satin stitch.
Highly padded satin stitch is goldthread or silver thread embroidery on the cloth with the layers of cardboard,
paper rope so that its shape could be raised in high relief. Padded satin stitch varies accordingly in compliance
with the s layers and form diversity of padded satin stitches.
We have already explored techniques of goldthread embroidery and schemes of making satin stitches were
demonstrated for visual effect. We hope that methodology will contribute a lot to traditional embroidery as well
as stakeholders.
krebuli XXVIII 301

sur. 1. oqromkedis Camagreba sur. 2. oqromkediT naqargobis saxeobebi: a – sipiT

naqargi, anu naWedi siTvi;
b – gayofili siTvi; g – reliefuri siTvi

a b g d
sur. 3. sipiT naqargi (moyinuli) _ naWedi siTvi
sur. 4. gayofili siTvi

sur. 6. reliefuri naqargoba

Zafis nafenze

sur. 5. Wadrakuli gayofili siTviT

Sevsebuli fragmenti

sur. 7. moyinuli reliefuri siTvi

a b
sur. 8. reliefuri naqargoba muyaos
nafenze; a – moyinuli siTviT;
b –gayofili siTviT sur. 9. reliefuri naqargoba
sur.10. maryuJebiT
Semokalmuli ornamentis bawris nafenze
fragmenti
316 quTaisis saxelmwifo istoriuli muzeumis Sromebi

nana qoriZe
cxvris kulti samxreT-dasavleT saqarTveloSi ............................................................................................... 270
Nana Koridze
FACTS REFLECTING THE SHEEP CULT FROM THE ADJARIAN MUSEUM ....................................... 272

mirian stefania
monRolebis samxedro xelovneba ((XIII-XIV ss) ............................................................................................................ 274
Mirian Stephania
MONGOL ART OF WAR (XIII-XIVCC) ....................................................................................................................................... 289

nino doliZe, xaTuna darsaveliZe

kostumis saxis formirebis aspeqtebi ............................................................................................................................ 292
Nino Dolidze, Khatuna Darsavelidze
ASPECTS OF THE FORMATION OF THE COSTUME ............................................................................................... 295

eliso CubiniZe, irina ugrexeliZe, ana doRonaZe, margalita msxilaZe, nona qarciZe
namagri siTvis saxeebi qarTul oqroqargulobaSi ......................................................................................... 296
Eliso Chubinidze, Irina Ugrekhelidze, Ana Doghonadze, Margalita Mskhiladze, Nona Kartsidze
KINDS OF SATIN STITCH IN GEORGIAN GOLDWORK ........................................................................................ 300

irina ugrexeliZe, salome WeiSvili

modernis stilis kaba quTaisis istoriuli muzeumis tansacmlis koleqciebidan 302
Irina Ugrekhelidze, Salome Sheishvili
MODERNIST STYLE DRESS FROM THE COLLECTIONS OF KUTAISI HISTORICAL
MUSEUM TEXTILE FUND .................................................................................................................................................................. 304

miranda ebanoiZe, zaal ebanoiZe

nizam hiqmeTi ................................................................................................................................................................................................ 307
Miranda Ebanoidze, Zaal Ebanoidze

krebuli dakabadonda da daibeWda

i/m `mamuka fofxaZis“ mier
q. quTaisi, wereTlis q. 186
tel.: 0 431 23 45 54