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OCT.

2022 中英文北美版

Taiwanese Markets
台味市集
中華民國一一一年十月 第四七卷第十期

南北 魚 市 場 風 情
看見 黑 洞 的 幕 後 英 雄
台灣 烏 龍 的 華 麗 變 身
融合 綠 能 科 技 的 電 幻 魅 力

建議售價
NT$150
US$5 Vol. 47 No. 10 October 2022
HK$40 CHINESE–ENGLISH BILINGUAL MONTHLY ISSN 1991-525X
¥600
八卦藻井

Octagonal Caisson Ceiling


圖/文•林旻萱 版面設計•馬英凱

鹿
港龍山寺戲臺上方的八卦藻
井,是台灣現存最古老的一 T he octagonal caisson ceiling above the stage
at Lung-shan Temple in Lukang is the oldest
such work in Taiwan. It rises through five ascend-
件作品。每層十六組的斗栱相互榫
接,向上收縮搭疊五層,最後往頂 ing levels of diminishing size, each with 16 sets
端井心齊集,當戲班於此酬神演 of bucket arches, culminating in a domed panel
出,弧形頂棚相互共鳴,更顯餘音 at the top. When troupes perform here, the reso-
繞梁之感。 nance from the vaulted ceiling lingers in the air.
(photo and text by Lin Min-hsuan/tr. by Phil Newell)
編人 的
編者 絮話語
打開市場百寶箱
文.陳亮君

中華民國111年10月1日出版(月刊)/
中華民國65年1月1日創刊
早年的市集,多半以所販售物品來稱呼, 研院所參與之「事件視界望遠鏡」(Event
出版者 光華畫報雜誌社 如米市、布市、柴市、魚市……等,待市場 Horizon Telescope, EHT)國際合作計畫、台
發 行 人/ 吳釗燮
Publisher: Jaushieh Joseph WU
社 長 / 徐詠梅 規模漸漸成形後,為了容易辨識與管理,幾 灣優質製茶工藝、兼具科普寓教於樂功能的
Director: Catherine Y.M. HSU
總 編 輯/ 陳亮君
Editor-in-Chief: Ivan CHEN 乎在各個縣市的公有市場,都會以第一公有 台電電幻1號所、國家太空中心的低軌衛星
主 編/ 曾蘭淑
Editor: Esther TSENG
文 稿 副 主 編/ 鄧慧純 郭美瑜
市場、第二公有市場……等名稱來命名。 發展、聲音經濟及低碳工具機產業……等
Deputy Editors: Cathy TENG, Mei KUO
文 字 編 輯/ 陳群芳 蘇俐穎 謝宜婷 此外,也有以城門東、西、南等周邊位置 等,讓《光華》的報導內容,豐富您的視
Writers: CHEN Chun-fang, Lynn SU, Tina XIE
美 術 編 輯/ 蕭郢岑 馬英凱 劉俊良
Art Editors: HSIAO Ying-tsen, MA Ying-kai, 而命名,如東門市場、南門市場;還有以當地 野,也期待透過本期《光華》的市場報導,
Lance LIU
攝影組召集人/ 莊坤儒
Photographic Coordinator: Kent CHUANG
地名與道路名稱來命名,如九份市場、瑞芳 在您下次經過市場時,抽空進去逛逛,或許
攝 影 組 長/ 林格立
Photographic Director: Jimmy LIN 市場、建國市場……等;另有以俗稱來命名的 就能發現潛藏在其中的驚奇與樂趣。
攝 影 編 輯/ 林旻萱
Photojournalist: LIN Min-hsuan
英 文 編 輯/ 陳瑩潔 唐樂榕 倪凱駿 「兵仔市」(台南永康),這類型的市場多以 誠如現代詩人楊牧所著的〈圓環〉,忠實
English Editors: Audrey CHEN, Robert TAYLOR,
Phil NEWELL
日 文 編 輯/ 山口雪菜 施家騏 批發為主,吸引了鄰近的阿兵哥前來採買,久 描述了當年台北建成圓環市集的記憶:
Japanese Editors: Yukina YAMAGUCHI,
Shila SHIH
印 尼 文 編 輯/ 陳德銘
而久之連公車站牌的路標都標示了此俗稱,反 那些排列如矩陣的攤子
Indonesian Editor: Temmy WIRYAWAN
越 南 文 編 輯/ 武秋香 而原本的正式名稱就沒什麼人在用了。 奇形怪狀的字和紅色吊燈
Vietnamese Editor: VU Thu Huong
泰 文 編 輯/ 王玉雯 堆高如小山的陶瓷碗
Thai Editor: WANG Yu-wen 從南到北,台灣各地像這樣各式各樣的市
資深行政編輯/ 段蜀華
Senior Administrative Editor: DUAN Shu-hwa
冒出又迴繞如雲的熱氣
集,不論是傳統早市、黃昏市場,還是特色
社 群 編 輯/ 蕭淑憶
Social Media Editor: Dawa HSIAO
曲折穿行的走道
市集(魚市、花市……),這些為數眾多的 相似及不識的香料……
總 監 / 鍾宜蓉
Marketing Director: Carianne CHUNG
業 務 協 理/ 陳俊偉 市場胃納了一代又一代人的生活所需。而哪
Deputy Manager: CHEN Jyun-wei
資 訊 部 主 任 / 卓宏基
Director of Information Systems: CHO Hung-chi 個市場較有趣?哪個市場又較具特色?在本 在這各路人馬聚集的地方,每天上演著人
綜 合 服 務 組/ 李淑慧
General Affairs: S.H. LEE
期的封面故事中,《光華》編採團隊特地挑 們的衣食住行與喜怒哀樂,而這也是許許多

選了具物產、人文及建築特色的市集,呈現 多人從小到大的成長回憶。再加上本期的全

出台灣最接地氣的生活樣貌,述說台灣在地 民徵件主題「看見思維的聲音──在地音樂

之多元與豐富。 與樂團」,則是透過影像,讓在地發聲,讓

而本期報導同樣能凸顯台灣特色的,有中 思維凝聚,迎接這充滿挑戰的未來。 l
Market Marvels EDITOR’S NOTE

I n times past, Taiwan’s markets derived We also explore several other topics that GPN: 2008000038 ISSN1991-525X
原刊名光華 Sinorama Magazine

their names from the goods they spe- are characteristic of Taiwan: the Academia 中華民國95年1月改為台灣光華雜誌
Taiwan Panorama

cialized in, such as rice, fabrics, firewood, Sinica’s participation in the international SUBSCRIPTION RATES:
or fish. As these places catered to a greater Event Horizon Telescope Collaboration; the  Republic of China: NT$150 per copy,
  NT$1500/year, NT$2600/2 years

variety of needs, they took on more generic craft of tea production; the blend of science
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names. Thus in many towns you will come education and entertainment at Taipower’s
 Elsewhere: US$45/year,
  US$80/2 years by airmail

across a First Public Market, Second Public D/S One venue; the National Space Organi- 社址/中華民國台灣台北市100209中正區愛國西路

Market, and so on. zation’s work on satellites; the audio econ-


2號3樓
Address: 3F, No. 2, Aiguo W. Rd., Zhongzheng

There are also markets named after their omy; and the carbon reduction efforts of ma-
District, Taipei City 100209, Taiwan, ROC
郵政信箱/100908台北復興橋郵政第8-398號信箱

locations close to old city gates, such as chine tool makers. We hope our reports can
PO Box 8-398, Taipei Fuxing Bridge,
Taipei City 100908, Taiwan, ROC

Dongmen (“east gate”) or Nanmen (“south help broaden your horizons, and that the
讀者服務專線/+886-2-3343-2704
編輯部/+886-2-3343-2750
傳真機/Fax: +886-2-2397-0655 
gate”). Others, like Jiufen Market, Ruifang stories of Taiwan’s markets will encourage 網址/http://www.taiwan-panorama.com/

Market, and Jianguo Market, carry local you to visit them and discover their charms.
讀者服務專線/+886-2-2397-0633
E-mail: service@taiwan-panorama.com

place or street names. Still others have A poem by Yang Mu vividly portrays 著作權所有,本雜誌圖文非經同意不得轉載。
如欲轉載,請與本社資深行政聯絡。
folksy names, such as Bingzai Market in the market that once occupied Taipei’s Jian­ 如發現書頁有裝訂錯誤或污損事情,
請寄至本社調換。
Tainan; these usually started out as whole- cheng Circle: “Those stalls arranged like All rights reserved. Photos and articles may not
be reprinted without our permission.
sale markets that attracted soldiers stationed mathematical matrices, / Eccentric writings If you wish to reprint any of our articles or
photographs, please contact our senior
nearby, bingzai meaning “soldiers.” With the and red pendant lights, / Ceramic bowls administrative editor.
Damaged or misbound copies returned to us will
passage of time, even local bus stops came piled high like hillocks, / Vapors that rise be gladly replaced.

to be called “Bingzai,” while former official and whirl like clouds, / Passageways that
names fell out of use. wind and intersect, / Spices strange and
From north to south, Taiwan is dotted familiar…”
with a vast variety of markets. Be they tradi- These places, which attract people from
tional morning or evening markets, or mar- all walks of life, tell the story of our every-
kets specializing in fish, flowers, or other day lives—a story by turns sad and happy.
particular products, these bustling hubs Many of us have deep memories of them. 本刊物印刷油墨使用環保認證大豆油墨

have been providing for our daily needs for This issue’s Readers’ Photos, on the theme
generations. This month’s Cover Story show- “See the Sound of Ideas—Local Music and
cases characterful markets that are known Musicians,” continue to channel local ener-
for the special produce they sell, or for their gies and give shape to ideas, encouraging
cultural and architectural charm. We reveal us to join forces and march together into a
Taiwan’s most down-to-earth facets and challenging future. l
celebrate our local diversity and abundance. (Ivan Chen/tr. by Brandon Yen)
目次
CONTENTS 中華民國111年10月 第47卷 第10期 Vol. 47 No. 10 October 2022

18
封面故事 Cover Story

6 台味市集——接地氣的所在
Taiwanese Markets:
Places to Connect with Local Life
文•鄧慧純 圖•林格立

8 台味風情.特色市集
迪化街、台北花卉市場
Taiwan’s Specialty Markets:
Dihua Street and the Taipei Flower Market
文•鄧慧純 圖•林格立

18 都會裡的新鮮直送

28 士東市場與希望廣場農民市集
Freshness in the Heart of the City:
Shi-Dong Market and Hope Plaza
Farmers’ Market
文•陳群芳 圖•莊坤儒

28 尚青ㄟ底家啦!
南北魚市場風情
Starting the Day Fresh and Early:
Fish Markets of Southern
and Northern Taiwan
文•鄧慧純 圖•林格立

38
38 老市場的重生與蛻變
連結地景與文化的地方新樞紐
Metamorphosis:
Revitalizing Old Markets
文•蘇俐穎 圖•林旻萱

編者的話 來自地方的明信片
Editor’s Note Postcards from Home

2 打開市場百寶箱 1 八卦藻井 52 月月好讀


Market Marvels Octagonal Caisson Ceiling Variety Pages
文•陳亮君 圖/文•林旻萱 文•蔡錦文
影像對話 Photo Essay

58 《光華》攝影徵件
看見思維的聲音──
封面說明:
市場象徵著地方的生命力,充滿豐饒物產與溫暖人情。
在地音樂與樂團
(莊坤儒攝) Readers’ Photos:
Cover: The abundant produce and welcoming atmosphere See the Sound of Ideas
of a market symbolize the vitality of its locale. —Local Music and Musicians
(photo by Kent Chuang)

全球視野 Global Outlook

68 看見黑洞的幕後英雄
天文台灣隊
Behind-the-Scenes Heroes
of Black Hole Imaging
—Taiwan’s Astronomy Team
文•謝宜婷 圖•陳明堂提供

76 獵風者奔太空
台灣自製實力第二發

68
Triton Set to Soar:
Taiwan to Launch Second Homegrown
Satellite
文•鄧慧純 圖•林旻萱

陳明堂提供 courtesy of Chen Ming-tang


島嶼行旅 Around Taiwan

86 台灣烏龍的華麗變身
用台灣風土決勝世界
Ooh La Oolong!
Taiwan’s World-Beating Teas
文•曾蘭淑 圖•林格立

96 融合綠能科技的電幻魅力

86
台電電幻1號所
The Electric Charm of Green Tech:
Taipower D/S One
文•楊齡媛 圖•莊坤儒

產業新創 Entrepreneurship

106 打開耳朵,聆聽多重宇宙
聲音經濟方興未艾
Open Your Ears to the Multiverse:
The Age of the Audio Economy is Here
文•蘇俐穎 圖•林旻萱

116 台灣工具機放眼未來

96
節能減碳進行式
Energy Saving and Net Zero
—The Future of Taiwan’s Machine Tool
Industry
文•陳群芳 圖•林旻萱
封面故事 Cover Story

台味市集
—— 接 地 氣 的 所 在
文•鄧慧純 圖•林格立 版面設計•蕭郢岑

透過螢幕,我們常跟著美國美食主廚Anthony Bourdain或英國女星Joanna Lumley主持的旅行紀錄片,


在世界各處旅遊,你會發現,他們每造訪一個國家絕不忘記鑽進當地的傳統市集,去逛一逛、聞一聞、
摸一摸、聊一聊,市集是最接地氣的所在。
市場可說是一座地方生活博物館,是窺知在地庶民生活的入口,市場也見證了一區域開發的歷史,像
是隨著碼頭而興的迪化街,早年是南北貨、茶葉、中藥材及布匹的集散中心;走訪全台規模最大的內湖
花市,到那邊可以遇見台灣的四季風景。
都會裡的市集是城市人紓壓的後花園,天母的「士東市場」是兼具傳統市場人情味與舒適節能,又富
設計感的空間;當初為921地震受災縣市農業營造商機而成立的「台北希望廣場農民市集」,讓生產端
與消費端親身碰面,互道安好,而且產地直送的食材,食安最OK。
台灣四面環海,海味是餐桌上的必須,大海的子民在嚴酷的環境下討生活,運回最活跳的魚鮮,魚市
場是最生猛的所在。
傳統市集多是依聚落而集結,空間隨興而自在,但在那方你來我往的笑語人聲、交易互惠的空間中,
交融著人與人互動共融的風景。
準備好跟我們一起鑽進市場吧!感受與人潮的摩肩接踵,體驗
在地的人情滋味;若在途中,被多塞了一把蔥、兩顆辣椒,
或是被老闆熱情的招待了滿手的食物,也別訝異,
因為這就是台味市集啦!

6
Taiwanese Markets:
Places to Connect with Local Life

T hrough the TV screen, we often follow the travel documentaries of people like master chef Anthony Bourdain
or actress Joanna Lumley. As they travel the world, you will discover that whenever they visit a country they
do not fail to explore its traditional markets, looking around, touching and smelling produce, and chatting. The
markets are where they connect with local life.
Markets with unique local character can be said to be museums of local life. They are a window into the lives
of residents and bear witness to the area’s development history.
Urban markets are like gardens where city folk can relieve stress. Shi-Dong Market in Taipei City’s Tianmu
area has the friendly atmosphere of a traditional market as well as being a comfortable and energy-saving space.
The Taipei Hope Plaza Farmers’ Market, originally founded to create commercial opportunities for agriculture in
areas impacted by the 1999 Jiji Earthquake, enables producers and consumers to directly interact.
Taiwan is surrounded by ocean, so seafood is a must at any dining table. Fish markets throughout Taiwan are
extraordinarily vibrant places.
Most traditional markets grew up around settlements. In those joyous spaces where people come and go and
mutually beneficial transactions take place, you will find countless scenes of people mingling and interacting.
Prepare yourself to come with us into Taiwan’s markets, where you will rub shoulders with the crowd and
make emotional connections with local people. If in the course of the journey you find an extra bunch of spring
onions or a handful of hot peppers pressed upon you, or a stand owner warmly invites you to fill your mouth
with a sample of food, don’t be alarmed, for this is what Taiwanese markets are all about!
(Cathy Teng/photos by Jimmy Lin/tr. by Phil Newell)

7
迪化街、台北花卉市場 Dihua Street and Taipei Flower Market

從迪化街的建築風格可窺見當年國際化的光景。
The architecture on Dihua Street hints at the area’s glory
days as a center of international trade.

8
台味風情.特色市集
封面故事

COVER
S TO RY

Taiwan’s Specialty
Markets:
Dihua Street and
the Taipei Flower
Market
迪化街、台北花卉市場
文 •
鄧慧純
 
圖 •
林格立 版面設計 •
 
蕭郢岑

9
將商品堆成如小山高的騎樓
展示,是迪化街日常的風景。
Products piled up on display
on covered sidewalks are a
common sight on Dihua Street.

而發展出多元經營的企
業王國。當年紡織業帶
動台灣經濟發展,如今
迪化街周邊、永樂市場
都還留有當年布業輝煌
的痕跡。
又如統一企業的高
清愿,他從紡織老本
行轉到麵粉廠發展,
閱讀一座城市,市集是充滿線索的文本,店 締造了食品王國,繼之多角化經營零售、物流、
家是文本的導覽員。這回《光華》引路,帶你走 貿易、投資等領域。便利商店的新紀元也是由統
訪大稻埕第一街迪化街,還有可日日為生活錦上 一企業所開啟,其取得7-Eleven總公司授權,並以
添花的台北花市,探索台味風情。 創新服務模式改變了台灣民眾的生活消費模式,
更是許多外國朋友對台灣便利生活的第一印象。
其他還有台灣人從小吃到大的可樂果、卡迪娜
大稻埕第一街:迪化街 等老字號的「聯華食品」;從小攤子經營起家的
光泉集團,之後創立了萊爾富超商連鎖通路。這
台北的起家厝
些生活周遭的點點滴滴,都發跡於迪化街,迪化
聊起迪化街,多數民眾直覺聯想到過年時的 街可說是台北的「起家厝」。
「年貨大街」,但其實迪化街是台灣商業史上最
成為市民生活風景的中藥行
早、也發展最完整的商街。依近大稻埕碼頭的
迪化街,自19世紀末以來一直是台北重要的南北 中藥行是迪化街上另一道風景。「中藥材是透
貨、茶葉、中藥材及布匹的集散中心。 過河港貿易進來,中藥行才會集中在迪化街。」
1853年,在艋舺發生頂下郊拚的械鬥事件,落敗 1973年就通過中醫師鑑定考試、黃長生藥行第二
的同安人避難至大稻埕,落腳在今日的迪化街。 代經營者黃秀蓁解釋了中藥行與迪化街的緣由,
1860年大稻埕開港,引進了商業新知與思維;1865 「當年興盛時,十家店有九家是中藥行。」黃長
年,英國人陶德從中國福建安溪引入茶苗在北台灣 生藥行則是在1984年進駐迪化街這一級戰區。
種植,開啟台灣種茶及大稻埕烘茶的光景,「福爾 對新世代而言,很多家庭鮮少接觸中藥行,感
摩沙烏龍茶」(Formosan Oolong Tea)自此推銷到 冒是上西醫診所打針吃藥,生活與中藥八竿子打不
全球市場,台灣因之進入世界經濟體系。 著;但其實中藥行離我們一點都不遠,「在那個便
在《百年迪化風華》書中,作者許麗芩細數了從 利商店不發達的年代,中藥行就像現在7-11,幾乎
迪化街出身的企業主故事,讓我們了解當年這些勤 含括一般人日常所需。」黃秀蓁說。第三代經營者
懇樸實的企業主打造的事業王國,是如何與常民生 廖庭妍接著舉例,像早上起床喝一杯薏仁漿,家庭
活連結。如被稱為台南幫的侯雨利、吳修齊、吳尊 烹飪常用的白胡椒,滷肉或茶葉蛋必用的滷包,四
賢、高清愿等人,是從傳統商販(布行)起家,累 神湯的材料淮山、蓮子、茨實、茯苓;甚或炎炎夏
積了商業資本,再投入製造業,創立台南紡織,繼 日,人們喜歡來一杯退火的青草茶,消暑、去油膩

10
I n discovering a city, markets are full of clues, while
shops are the guides to these clues. To explore the
tastes and style of Taiwan, let’s visit Dihua Street, the
oldest street in Taipei’s Dadaocheng area, as well as the
Taipei Flower Market, which adds color to daily life.

Dihua Street

Taipei’s entrepreneurial incubator


Dihua Street is historically the oldest and most fully
developed commercial street in Taiwan. Located near the 百年來大稻埕的士農工商,均蒙城隍爺的庇佑。
Dadaocheng wharf, since the late 19th century Dihua Street For a century, the people of Dadaocheng have been under the
protection of the City God.
has been an important distribution center for tea, herbal
medicines, cloth and dried foods from Taiwan and beyond.
In 1853 people originally from Tong’an in Fujian fled from
Banka to Dadaocheng after an ethnic conflict, and settled in Kao Chin-yen, began as traditional cloth merchants and,
the area where Dihua Street now stands. With the opening of after accumulating some capital, invested in manufactur-
the port of Tamsui to foreign trade in 1860, a wharf was built ing, founding the Tainan Spinning Company. They later
at Dadaocheng. In 1865 the Scotsman John Dodd brought in each went on to develop diverse business empires.
tea seedlings from Anxi in Fujian and began growing tea in Kao Chin-yen, for example, switched from textiles to
Northern Taiwan, opening the door to tea farming in Taiwan flour milling and built a food products empire, founding
and tea processing in Dadaocheng. Dodd promoted the sale Uni-President Enterprises. It was Uni-President that ushered
of “Formosan oolong tea” to the global market, marking Tai- in the age of convenience stores in Taiwan when they were
wan’s entry into the world economic system. franchised to open 7-Eleven shops, which changed the daily
In her book A Century of Magnificence on Dihua Street, lives of Taiwanese consumers.
author Xu Liqin tells the stories of business owners who Lian-Hwa Foods Corporation is another Dihua Street firm
started out on Dihua Street. Key figures from the “Tainan whose products Taiwanese have been eating since childhood,
Gang,” including Hou Yuli, Wu Xiuqi, Wu Zunxian, and while Kuang Chuan Dairy Company, which started out as a
vendor’s stall there, later
established the Hi-Life
convenience store chain.
These companies that
are so much a part of
daily life got their start
in Dihua Street.
Herbal pharmacy
Traditional Chinese
pharmacies are also an
important element in
the Dihua Street mix.
“Chinese medicines
came to the river port at
Dadaocheng via mari-
time trade, which is
why herbal pharmacies
迪化街上的老店都有著自己的故事。 became concentrated
Every one of Dihua Street’s old shops has its own story.
around Dihua Street,”

11
黃長生設計各式的紅酒包、藥膳包、藥浴包、足浴包
等,貼近現代人的生活習慣。
Huang Chang Sheng makes packets of all kinds of
materials, including spices for mulled wine, tonic foods,
medicinal baths, and foot baths, staying in touch with the
habits of modern people.

(下圖)黃秀蓁(左)、廖庭妍(右)母女努力讓中藥
重回到市民生活的日常。
(below) Mother and daughter Huang Xiuzhen (left) and Liao
Ting-yen (right) are working hard to bring Chinese medicinal
herbs back into ordinary people’s lives.

的酸梅湯,秋季養生的銀耳蓮子湯,香港人煲湯愛
用的桃膠,都是中藥材的一種。
至今踏入黃長生藥行,仍不時可見長桌上擺
好一張張藥紙,老闆從後方藥櫃取出炮製好的藥
材,一小撮一小撮地分配擺好,再一帖帖包摺整
齊,空間中充滿藥材的香氣,這充滿儀式感的氛
圍,老一輩的客人會特地到店裡來抓藥、取藥,
「他們覺得這有祝福的涵義。」廖庭妍說。
粉紅色的藥紙上,不只有古意的藥材圖示與標
語,還扼要地條列了燉煮說明,五個步驟,放入
電鍋,外鍋兩杯水,按下開關即可,與以往我們
聽到煎水藥就退避三舍的印象截然不同。
除了讓煎藥變得像傻瓜相機一樣聰明,黃長生
藥行為了讓外國訪客也能夠親近中藥材,開發了多
元商品,如歐美國家熟悉的熱紅酒香料包,日本
客人喜歡泡澡產品,就順勢推出足浴包、漢方藥浴
包、抗菌藥浴包,還有貼心媽媽的產婦藥浴包、月
內補藥膳,為初生嬰兒設計的寶寶艾泡澡。廖庭妍
指出,歐美朋友對於東方香料很好奇,也對台味的
滷包很感興趣;漢方的茶包像是花草茶一般,與他
們的文化習慣貼近,接受度也高。今年年初西洋情
人節,黃長生藥行與晶華酒店合作推出的月老結緣
茶,因為迪化街上的霞海城隍廟專司姻緣聞名,成
功將中藥行連結在地文化。
黃長生藥行至今還維持著炮製中藥材的古法,
「炮製法最重要的功能,就是透過炮製的過程,
改變藥性,清潔藥材,使其發揮最大功能。」黃
秀蓁也常在談話中與客人分享中藥的知識,希望
藉由點點滴滴提醒,讓中藥重回常民的日常。

12
says Huang Xiuzhen, second-generation owner of Huang place the ingredients in the inner pot of a rice cooker, cover
Chang Sheng Traditional Chinese Pharmacy. them with water, add two cups of water to the outer pot, and
Chinese herbal medicines may seem divorced from the hit the “on” button.
lives of the younger generation, but in fact they remain Huang Chang Sheng still uses traditional methods to pro-
closely connected to us. “Back in the days before convenience cess their herbal ingredients. “The most important effects of
stores, herbal pharmacies were like today’s 7-Elevens, selling processing are to clean the medicinal ingredients and to mod-
virtually everything needed for daily life,” says Huang. Her ify their pharmacological properties, so that they produce the
daughter Liao Ting-yen, who now runs the business, notes best medicinal effect.” While chatting with customers Liao
the many things sold at herbal pharmacies: Job’s-tears milk, often shares her knowledge of herbal medicines, in hopes of
which you would drink in the morning; white pepper, often bringing them back into the daily lives of ordinary people.
used for home cooking; the spice pouches needed to make Huang Chang Sheng makes preparing herbal medicines
braised pork or tea eggs; and the Chinese yams, lotus seeds, as simple as using a point-and-shoot camera. To make it easier
prickly waterlily seeds, and poria fungus used in sishen (“four for foreign visitors to feel comfortable with the ingredients
gods” or “four herbs”) soup. There was also sour plum drink, used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), the pharmacy
which people consumed to cool off in summer, and snow has also developed a number of diverse products such as
fungus soup with lotus seeds, which people drank to im- spice packets for mulled wine. Japanese customers especially
prove their health in autumn. love bathing products, and Huang Chang Sheng has come out
Walking into Huang Chang Sheng today, you can occa- with foot bathing packets, TCM bath packets, antibacterial
sionally see wrapping papers for herbal medicine prepara- bath packets, medicinal bath packets and tonic food packets
tions laid out on a long table, as the boss takes out ingredients for women who have recently given birth, and bath packets
from the drawers behind the counter and distributes them for newborns. Westerners are also curious about Chinese
onto the papers pinch by pinch, then folds the papers into spices, and find the spice pouches used for Taiwanese-style
pouches. The fragrance of medicinal herbs that fills the air braising especially interesting. It is easy for Westerners to ac-
and the ritualistic atmosphere draw elderly customers to cept herbal medicine packets because consuming them is like
make special trips to the pharmacy to pick up their medicine. drinking herbal tea, which is culturally familiar.
“They feel the process imparts a sense of blessing,” says Liao. The tradition of Lunar New Year foods
Printed on the pink wrapping papers there are not only When people from Tong’an arrived in Dadaocheng back in
various archaic-looking images and slogans to do with medi- the day, they realized the area’s potential as a port and started
cinal ingredients, but a concise explanation of the method trading across the Taiwan Strait. From then on, merchants of
of preparation. The five steps listed basically add up to this: all kinds gathered in the area, and anyone wanting to trade
in dried food and groceries was sure
to come to Dihua Street. The family of
Lee Rih-sheng is one example.
Lee’s grandfather began to make
a living on Dihua Street in his early
teens, and later the whole family
moved there. After Lee’s mother
married into the family, she learned

老一輩的客人會特地到店裡來抓
藥、取藥,這儀式感的氛圍帶有祝
福的意涵。
Older customers make a special trip to
Huang Chang Sheng Traditional Chinese
Pharmacy to see their prescriptions
being made up. The ritualistic process
imparts a benevolent atmosphere.

13
用南北貨找回年夜飯的傳統

當年,同安人來到大稻埕,看上此地的港埠條
件,做起兩岸貿易,日久成為南北貨、中藥等批發
集散地,自此也匯集了各路的商辦,要做南北貨生
意就是到迪化街來,李日勝的家族就是其一。
阿公十幾歲就在迪化街謀生,家族也都在此落
地生根。李日勝的母親王麗蘋嫁入李家後,跟在公
國外也有烏魚子料理,但李日勝強調只有台灣的風土才能製
婆身旁學習經營南北貨生意,1986年,成立「李日 造出在地獨一無二的風味。
Mullet roe is used in cuisine outside of Taiwan too, but Lee Rih-
勝有限公司」,還以品牌的名字為兒子命名。已回 sheng emphasizes that only Taiwan’s unique handcrafted curing
process can produce the distinctive flavor of local mullet roe.
家接棒的李日勝說起他對迪化街的記憶,「我小時
候覺得這塊區域很不像光鮮亮麗的台北,這街區其
實很傳統,」他再補充:「我講的『傳統』不是負 禮者的心意。」因此在不同時間來逛迪化街,熱
面的,而是這邊有很多舊的人文、事物。」「在這 鬧和閑靜氛圍各不相同。
街區生活,鄰居認得每一間住戶,會互相打招呼, 我們以為歐美旅客對乾貨陌生,對烏魚子不
這在台北很難找到這樣的地方。生活模式也是,這 甚了解,李日勝反而說,乾燥是食物保存的手法
邊六點之後街上就空了,可是它的安靜不是死氣沉 之一,世界各地都有;烏魚子對東西方也不算
沉,而是大家休息了。」 陌生,法式料理和義大利菜都會用到烏魚子,
但是遇到農曆過年就大大不同了,李日勝回想, 只是處理方式是完全乾燥後磨成粉,作為調味
「我們在除夕前三個月家裡就忙起來,開始調度、 料,用以增加香氣。李日勝以野生、台灣手工製
備貨。」平日商家就會把各式商品展示在騎樓,到 作的烏魚子為主銷商品,強調只有台灣的風土才
了辦年貨的時節,一落一落的乾貨堆得店鋪像要滿 能製造出台灣獨一無二的風味。用台灣風土跟世
溢出來,就是擔心客人無法從中挑到自己想要的。 界對話,食物是最容易搭接起的橋梁,在「李日
到迪化街辦年貨是長久以來的習俗了,婆婆 勝」,東西方就以烏魚子開啟了文化交流。
媽媽們會在年前跑一趟,為年夜飯加菜,或是公 南北貨是台灣年夜飯上的常客,但南北貨對不下
司行號逢年過節要送禮,迪化街是選物的首選。 廚房的新世代著實有距離感,「所以教育也是我們
「來迪化街來買禮品是很優雅的,要買好的東 經營的重要環節,教客人如何料理,不要讓買乾貨
西,慢慢品賞,精心挑選,讓客戶、朋友知道送 的客人消失了。」他會用簡單的方式教客戶如何料
理南北貨,成為桌上的一道年菜,
「很多家庭的年夜飯是從微波爐叮
一聲之後,大家才就坐吧!」李日
勝玩笑地說,但是以前不是呦!
以前是過了中午,一家人就慢慢聚
集,七手八腳的準備,一起聊天話
家常,那樣的氛圍和情境,原來這
是李日勝想保留下的「傳統」。

李日勝希望用南北貨找回年夜飯的傳統。
Lee Rih-sheng hopes to revitalize the
tradition of Lunar New Year’s Eve family
dinners by getting more people to buy the
products traditionally associated with the
old-fashioned holiday customs.

14
how to do business from her parents-in-law and in 1986 East and West. It is used in French and Italian cuisine, though
founded the Lee Rih Sheng Company, named after her son. it­is­processed­differently,­being­fully­dried­then­ground­into­
Lee Rih-sheng, who returned home a few years ago to take powder and used as a condiment to add to a dish’s aroma.
over the family firm, talks about his memories of Dihua Lee Rih Sheng’s signature product is wild mullet roe, and the
Street: “When I was small I felt that this area was very company­emphasizes­that­only­Taiwan’s­unique­handcrafted­
tradi­tional,­ unlike­ bright,­ flashy­ Taipei.”­ He­ adds:­ “Living­ curing­process­can­produce­its­distinctive­flavor.­Taiwan’s­
in this neighborhood, neighbors know every household and terroir provides a topic for dialogue with the world, for food
people­greet­each­other.­It’s­hard­to­find­this­kind­of­place­ is­the­easiest­way­to­build­bridges.­Thus­Taiwanese­mullet­
in­Taipei.­Also,­after­six­at­night­there­is­no­one­around,­as­ roe­can­open­up­exchanges­between­East­and­West.
everyone­is­resting.” Dried foods are traditionally an important part of Lunar
But­it­is­very­different­around­the­Lunar­New­Year.­Lee­ New­ Year’s­ Eve­ meals­ in­ Taiwan,­ but­ the­ younger­ genera-
says, “We get busy two or three months beforehand laying tion,­who­don’t­cook­at­home­so­much,­feel­less­affinity­for­
in­ products.”­ At­ other­ times­ of­ the­ year­ shops­ display­ all­ these items. Lee says his company must teach customers
manner of items on the covered sidewalk, but when the how­to­prepare­dried­foods­to­make­New­Year’s­dinner.­“In­
Lunar­New­Year­arrives­it­looks­like­shops­are­overflowing­ a lot of families people only sit down to eat after the micro-
with dried foods, adding to the festive atmosphere. wave­oven­beeps!”­he­says­jokingly.­But­it­used­to­be­differ-
We assumed that Western visitors would be unfamiliar ent. In the past, the whole family would gradually gather in
with dried foods and have no understanding of mullet roe. the afternoon and everyone would work to prepare the food
But Lee says that drying is used worldwide as a method of while chatting together. It is this kind of atmosphere that
food preservation, and mullet roe is a familiar food in both makes up the tradition that Lee wants to preserve.

李日勝的門面讓人一眼辨識是以海味、南北貨為主場。
The decor of the entryway to the Lee Rih Sheng Company tells you right away
that this is a shop that mainly sells seafood as well as dried foodstuffs.

15
財團法人台灣區花卉發展協會總經理黃麗娟
台北花卉市場 一路導覽,一邊說:「台北花市是全台規模最大
的花卉零售批發市場。空間分成三區:切花、盆
遇見台灣的四季
花、資材,共有兩百多個攤商。整體來說, 80%
深夜,從中南部北上奔馳在高速公路上的貨 是台灣本土的花卉,20%是進口花卉。」花卉來自
車,有不少是為了趕赴凌晨四點在內湖台北花卉 全國各地,主產地有中彰投雲嘉南。秋冬是花卉
市場的拍賣。 的旺季,夏日天氣炎熱,不利花卉生產,因此也
凌晨四點開始拍賣花卉,結束後被送到理花 不時可見來自荷蘭、厄瓜多爾、南美洲、越南、
區,再分送到花市的攤位。五六點,花店業者、 澳洲、紐西蘭等國的進口花材,補足市場所需。
花藝設計師、花藝教室便陸續進場採買所需的花 在花卉產業30多年,黃麗娟點出:「台灣的
卉,再晚一些,民眾也會來選花,挑一些生活用 花卉消費最大宗用在宮廟祭祀,佔了三成多,台
花,回去妝點日常;中午12點花商準時收攤,想 灣人農曆初一、十五要拜拜,做生意的商家初二
買花就明日請早了。 也要拜拜,都要用花。再者,婚喪喜慶的業務用
花,開店、升官、入厝等祝賀花卉。近
年來花藝市場興盛,花藝教室採買的比
為生活錦上添花,許多民眾會走一趟花市,用鮮花妝點日常。
Many people visit flower markets and buy fresh flowers to 重也約有三成。」
brighten up their days.
而對市場的變化,黃麗娟則分享她的
觀察:「早年的傳統花卉指的就是菊花、
玫瑰、唐菖蒲等,色彩也多是紅、白、
黃、紫等傳統色系,但這十多年來,像是
洋桔梗,文心蘭、百日草、非洲菊等,都
是新興的花卉。在色彩上,各種顏色多元
繽紛,如洋桔梗除了單色的粉、綠、白、
紫外,還有雙色、鑲邊、漸層等選擇,而
且隨著彩色花吸染技術的進步,花卉的色
彩也更繽紛,總之就是種類、品種都變得
更多元豐富了。」
而配花、葉材也讓人驚奇,以前是文
竹、滿天星為大宗,而今攤位上各種油加
利葉、龜背竹、武竹、巴西葉、山防風、
南柏、山蘇、蕨類等,攤位上還有各種
叫不出名字的葉子,姿態各異。來到盆
花區,除了台灣厲害的品種蝴蝶蘭,株株
開得爭奇鬥艷外,還見到送禮熱門的幸運
竹、馬拉巴栗、多肉植物等盆景。
不時接待外國花卉專業團體來參訪,
黃麗娟分享最常收到訪賓讚嘆台灣花卉市
場的多樣化,小小的國度有這麼多樣的植
物與種類,「光一個攤子就蒐羅了這麼多
的品種,就可以窺見其背後的產業是有多
麼的豐富了。」黃麗娟總結地說。 l

16
people also pray there on the second day of the new year.
Taipei Flower Market
They all want to use flowers.”
Enjoying the four seasons of Taiwan Describing how the market has changed over time,
The flower auctions begin at 4 a.m. At five or six, flower Huang observes: “Traditionally the main flowers were the
shop owners, floral designers, and flower-arranging school likes of chrysanthemums, roses, and gladiolas, and the
proprietors begin to arrive to purchase the flowers they need main colors were red, white, yellow, and purple. But over
from dealers’ stalls. Ordinary citizens also come by to pick the past decade or so, many new flowers have come to the
out some decorative blossoms to brighten up their daily lives. fore, such as lisianthus, Oncidium orchids, zinnia, and Afri-
On the dot of noon, the flower dealers shut up shop. can daisies. The offering has become much more diverse.”
Betty Huang, general manager of the Taiwan Floriculture There is also an amazing abundance of flowers and
Development Association, is our guide. She explains: “The other materials used to coordinate with the main flowers
Taipei Flower Market is the largest retail and wholesale flower in arrangements. In the past asparagus fern and baby’s
market in Taiwan, with more than 200 businesses. About breath were mainly used, but today vendors offer a
80% of the flowers sold are grown domestically, while about wide variety of plants including eucalyptus, monstera,
20% are imported.” Flowers come from all over Taiwan, but Sprenger’s asparagus fern, globe thistle, and bird’s-nest
mainly from Taichung, Changhua, Nantou, Yunlin, Chiayi fern. Indeed, almost every vendor has various types of
and Tainan. Autumn to winter is peak season for flowers, greenery that you can’t even name.
whereas the intense heat of summer is unfavorable for flower Huang, who often plays host to groups of flower experts
production. That’s why at that time of year you often see flow- from abroad, says that what they generally most admire
ers from overseas that are brought in to meet demand. about Taiwan’s flower markets is their diversity, finding it
Huang has been in the flower industry for over 30 years. incredible that such a small country can have so many dif-
“The biggest consumption of flowers in Taiwan,” she says, “is ferent plants. As Huang puts it: “From the fact that even a
for events at temples, accounting for more than 30%. At the single vendor has so many different varieties, you can get a
Lunar New Year, Taiwanese go to temples to pray on New glimpse of the richness of the industry as a whole.” l
Year’s Day and the 15th day of the new year, and business- (Cathy Teng/photos by Jimmy Lin/tr. by Phil Newell)

17
士東市場、希望廣場農民市集 Shi-Dong Market and Hope Plaza Farmers' Market

18
都會裡的新鮮直送
封面故事

COVER
S TO RY

Freshness in the
Heart of the City:
Shi-Dong Market
and Hope Plaza
Farmers’ Market
士東市場與
希望廣場農民市集
文 •
陳群芳
 
圖•
莊坤儒
 
版面設計

蕭郢岑

19
每當出國旅遊,總會上國外市集,瞧瞧當地 了一課。眼前一尾尾排放整齊的透抽,是當天午
的特色物產,感受人與人之間的互動。懷抱著 夜釣到便直送漁港,一大清晨即上市的新鮮貨。
同樣的心情,走逛台北都會區兩間深具特色的市 「老闆,我要八隻,可以幫我真空嗎?」熟門
集:有「五星級菜市場」之稱的士東市場,空間 熟路的客人,買了海鮮,會請老闆真空分裝,這
寬敞舒適,攤位富有設計感,就像間有人情味的 樣一來,不僅食材的味道不會互相沾染,能保持
百貨商場;而週末限定的希望廣場,則由農友上 冰箱的乾淨,且一次僅需解凍一餐的分量,讓人
陣擺攤,帶來全台當令時鮮,牽起產地到餐桌的 省事許多。不只海鮮攤,士東市場裡的肉攤,同
緣分。走逛都會市集,不僅滿載而歸,透過物產 樣也添購了真空機,以期能提供更細緻的服務。
拉近城市人與土地的距離,內心會因為這份互動 位處台北市精華地段的天母,鄰近美國學校與日
的情意,感到無比豐足。 僑學校,國內外旅客眾多,也帶來相應的消費力,
因此士東市場的攤商們,無不盡全力準備等級、品
質皆上選的商品。就連小番茄也有攤商依風味、口
士東市場 感區別,分裝在酒杯裡展示,讓民眾能依各自的喜
第一次造訪士東市場的人,通常都會發出 好品嚐挑選,給人彷彿品酒般的體驗。
「哇!」的讚嘆,忍不住拿起手機猛按快門。寬敞 不同於戶外市場攤販的流動率高,士東市場
明亮的購物空間,攤位上整齊的各色蔬果、魚鮮肉 的攤商都是與台北市政府簽約的固定經營者,抱
品,聞不到腥臭味,再加上合宜的室內空調,即使 著經營事業的態度,悉心打點攤位。像是進駐七
是炎熱的夏天,逛傳統市場彷彿也成了一種享受。 年多的食禾惠蔬菜攤,當初設櫃時,創辦人就以
自己旅居國外的經驗,不像一般菜攤直接以進貨
尚青ㄟ攏底家
紙箱當容器,而改用籐籃、竹簍等天然材質來盛
「透抽剛釣起來的時候是透明的,所以越新鮮 裝。攤位上方的招牌則由花藝師設計,以綠、
的皮膚越活,輕輕地碰觸表皮,會微微變色。」 黃色為基底的立體造景,配上攤位顏色豐富的蔬
海鮮攤老闆親切地解說如何辨識新鮮海產,透抽 菜,讓空間像個充滿生命力的有機體,營造有如
表面的顏色因觸摸而閃動,才逛第一攤就立刻上 外國市集的氛圍。

在歷屆自治會與攤
商們的用心經營
下,空間舒適的士
東市場,吸引許多
國內外遊客前來。
Thanks to
conscientious
governance by
the management
association and
vendors, Shi-Dong
Market offers a
pleasant place to
shop, attracting many
domestic and foreign
visitors.

20
W henever I go abroad, I like to visit local mar-
kets to check out the local produce and get a
feel for how people interact. It was with this mindset
that I strolled through two markets in Taipei City. One
is Shi-Dong Market, known as the “five-star food mar-
ket.” It is spacious and comfortable, and the vendors’
booths are presented with a sense of design. It feels like
a depart ment store, but with a friendlier atmosphere.
The other, the Taipei Hope Plaza Farmers’ Market,
which opens only on weekends, is a place where farm-
ers bring fresh food from all over Taiwan, linking farm
to table. Visits to urban markets not only replenish
one’s food stocks, they narrow the gap between urban-
ites and the land and give us a sense of its abundance.

推著推車悠閒採買,四季來 市場經常是圍繞廟宇的攤販匯聚而來,士東市場闢了
逛士東市場,皆十分宜人。 空間供奉神祇,帶來庇佑的精神力量。
Strolling through Shi-Dong Markets often sprang up where vendors plied their trade
Market with a shopping cart around temples. True to this tradition, Shidong Market
is a pleasant experience all has created a space for religious worship, where prayers
year round. can be offered for peace and safety.

Shi-Dong Market

People visiting Shi-Dong Market for the first time


are often awestruck, and snap a lot of photos on their
phones. The vendors’ booths in the spacious, brightly
lit, air-conditioned space are filled with neatly ar-
ranged vegetables, fruits, seafoods, and meats. On a
hot summer day, a visit to this traditional market is a
genuine pleasure.
The freshest food is right here
At the first stall we visit, we learn something new.
The owner, a vendor of fresh seafood, kindly ex-
plains: “When neritic squid are caught they are trans-
parent, and the fresher they are the more pliable the
skin is. When you lightly touch the skin, it changes
color slightly.” The squid before our eyes are very
fresh: they were caught late the night before and sent
to the market early that morning.
Knowledgeable customers buying seafood ask ven-
dors to vacuum-pack their items in separate portions.
This both prevents the smell of seafood from con-
taminating their other purchases and saves time by
allowing them to simply defrost individual servings.
The market’s meat vendors have likewise purchased
vacuum packing equipment to enhance their service.

21
為了提供更多元的蔬菜來源,食禾惠不走果
菜批發,而是走訪全台小農,專賣有機或無毒的
蔬菜,「這是司馬庫斯的高麗菜、斗六鮮採的川
耳、埔里的茴香頭,只要切細,拌上橄欖油和黑
胡椒鹽就很美味……」店長李秀如一一細數架上
蔬菜的來源,堅持產地直送。長期的合作交陪,
食禾惠自許為農民與客人間的橋梁,喜歡跟民眾
講解食材的得來不易,也累積了不少忠誠顧客,
甚至還有人會遠從台南下訂單宅配呢!

創造潮流的時髦市場
食禾惠蔬菜攤營造國外市集的氛圍,專賣產地直送的友善農產。
The Suhohui Market booth exudes the ambience of an overseas
看到民眾推著市場自治會提供的推車,悠閒地 market. They specialize in selling produce grown using eco-
friendly farming methods that is delivered direct from the farm.
逐攤採買,瞬間以為自己身在超市。可是,當聽
到攤商與客人話家常,看到民眾忘了帶手機,攤
商二話不說就出借電話,說明了士東仍是間充滿
人情味的傳統市場。 製)的LED燈看板,以及招牌投影燈等,種種的細
而肉攤的整齊乾淨,則顛覆人們對傳統市場的 節,令人感受到陳沼銘對門面維護的用心。
刻板印象。例如永進號豬肉攤設有低溫冷藏展示 士東市場有外送平台合作駐點,攤位也幾乎都支
櫃,讓喜愛上市場買溫體肉的婆婆媽媽們,多了份 援行動支付,再加上攤位充滿設計感的外觀,士東
安心。對肉攤經營很有想法的老闆陳沼銘,幾年前 市場總是洋溢著年輕的朝氣。但其實士東市場早在
就換上設計簡約、帶有復古色調的招牌,寫著本地 1992年就已啟用,是台灣早期室內化的公有市場,
黑毛豬、高粱香腸、特製鹹豬肉等字樣,讓人一目 當時就已是設備相當健全的建築。有硬體當基底,
了然。各部位的肉品在攤位上整齊擺放,檯面上沒 軟體設施則在一屆屆市場自治會的管理下,臻於完
有飛濺的血水,隨時維持環境的清潔。攤位後方以 善。像是從第一屆自治會就很重視排水,訂下活體
中英文標示的豬肉位置圖解、寫著「MIT」(台灣 不進市場的規範,之後制定了攤位的範圍,得以維
持公共空間的寬敞。而
現任自治會長何慶豐則
為士東打造可愛吉祥
物,並鼓勵攤商申請市
府的精進計畫,協助將
攤位改頭換面。這些點
滴的累積,才造就士東
市場今日的面貌。
有了自治會凝聚共
識,攤商們持續精進的
態度,更讓士東市場

在士東市場聞著咖啡香,
體驗生活的美好。
The fragrance of coffee inside
Shi-Dong Market creates a
blissful atmosphere.

22
士東市場的攤商以經營事業的心,打造時髦的現代化市場,例如傳承四代的
童家饅頭,改裝門面、開發造型饅頭,不斷與時俱進。
Vendors at Shidong Market have transformed the place into a fashionable shopping
center for the modern age. Now in its fourth generation, Tong’s Steamed Buns has
rebranded itself, bringing out cute-looking products to keep up with the times.

Located in Tianmu near Taipei’s American and Japa-


nese schools, Shi-Dong Market has many foreign custom-
ers with considerable purchasing power. Accordingly, the ting with customers, you know that Shi-Dong is still a
vendors go all out to supply high-grade products. Even a friendly, welcoming traditional market.
seller of cherry tomatoes has sorted them by flavor and Yet the neat, clean presentation of the meat stalls is at
texture, so that shoppers can choose based on their prefer- odds with most people’s stereotypes of traditional markets.
ences. Shi-Dong offers an experience akin to wine tasting. For example, the Yongjinhao pork stall has a refrigerated dis-
The vendors here are almost all longstanding businesses play cabinet to put customers’ minds at ease about the safety
that have signed contracts with the city government and of their products. A few years ago owner Chen Zhaoming
manage their booths in a businesslike way. For example, switched over to an old-fashioned sign with a simple design
the vegetable stall Suhohui, which has been in Shi-Dong for his booth. Various cuts of meat are neatly displayed on
Market for seven years, does not display its wares in the the stand, and everything is kept clean. Behind the stall there
cardboard boxes they are delivered in, but instead uses rat- is poster showing the various parts of a pig in both Chinese
tan and bamboo baskets. The sign overhead, and the rustic and English, and an LED sign shaped like a pig with the let-
decoration in green and yellow hues that echo the vege- ters “MIT” (Made in Taiwan) on it. Such details give a sense
tables on the stall, also add to the organic feel of the space. of the care that Chen puts into his booth’s appearance.
Suhohui seeks out small farmers all over Taiwan and The market provides space for delivery services that work
exclusively sells vegetables from growers who practice with the vendors, most booths accept mobile payments, and
organic or toxin-free farming. “These are cabbages from there is a real sense of design to the overall appearance. The
Smangus, freshly harvested wood-ear mushrooms from result is an atmosphere full of youthful dynamism. But in
Douliu, and fennel bulbs from Puli. Just cut them into fact Shi-Dong first opened back in 1992 and was considered
strips, add olive oil, salt and black pepper, and you get a well equipped at the time. Since then, there has been contin-
delicious salad,” says owner Mak Lee, who insists on hav- ual improvement in its management and in the maintenance
ing ingredients directly shipped from the farm. of facilities by the management association. For instance,
A trendsetting fashionable market the first management committee emphasized drainage and
Seeing people pushing shopping carts provided by stipulated that no animals could be brought into the market
the market management, you would think you are in a alive, and later they regulated the size of the booths in order
supermarket. However, when you hear the vendors chat- to keep the aisles free of obstructions. Allan He, the current

23
與時俱進。例如創立自1953年的童家饅頭,是早期 來台旅遊都特地來逛士東市場,還帶著家族前來捧
就駐點的商家之一,如今已傳承至第四代。順應現 場。看著童瑋登手機裡與各國客人的合影,越發能
代人的需求,童家饅頭改良尺寸、口感,也開發卡 感受士東市場作為國際觀光市場的魅力。
通造型,或是以西點為概念,製作加了奇亞籽及蔓 即使不下廚,在士東市場買杯精品咖啡,悠閒
越莓、芒果、鳳梨等果乾製作的饅頭。明白士東市 散步,或是上二樓美食街品嚐各式異國料理,吃
場有國際觀光的潛力,四代經營者童瑋登,還去進 吃珍食244製作的蔬食料理,感受老闆蔡素珍想
修外語,而童家饅頭的好滋味,的確也吸引了來自 讓更多人認識台灣豐饒物產的理念,走逛士東市
法國、美國的甜點主廚,還有一對日本女孩,三度 場讓人體驗生活的美好。

日曬的草菇乾、金黃的綠竹筍、在欉
紅的無花果、老菜脯等,全是少見
的農產,周末限定的希望廣場農民市
集,每次來都會有不同驚喜。
Sun-dried straw mushrooms, golden
bamboo shoots, ripe figs straight from the
tree, dried radishes, baby taros, and other
rare produce can be found at the weekend-
only Hope Plaza Farmers’ Market. The
place is always full of surprises.

head of the management association, has created a mascot Even if you don’t cook at home, at Shi-Dong you can still
for the market and encourages businesses to renovate their buy a cup of premium coffee and browse at your leisure, or
booths and improve their appearance. visit the second-floor food court and try foods from around
The stallholders’ attitude of constant refinement has the world. Check out the vegetarian cuisine at Mother Whale
enabled Shi-Dong Market to keep up with the times. For 224 and feel the spirit of owner Jane Tsai, whose aim is to
example, Tong’s Steam Buns, founded in 1953, moved into make more people aware of Taiwan’s abundant produce. A
Shi-Dong early on and today is operated by the founder’s visit to Shi-Dong Market exemplifies the beauty of life.
great-grandson. Conforming to the demands of contem-
Taipei Hope Plaza Farmers’ Market
porary consumers, Tong’s has adjusted the size and texture
of its steamed buns and devised buns that look like cartoon Delights everywhere
characters. Knowing the potential for foreign tourists to Hope Plaza, located near Shandao Temple Metro station,
visit the market, fourth-generation operator Weylon Tong hosts a weekend farmers’ market that brings together food
brushed up on his language skills. The delicious flavor of his producers from across Taiwan. Although the market does not
steamed buns has attracted chefs from France and the US, officially open until 10 a.m. on weekend mornings, not long
and a pair of young women from Japan who have visited after nine o’clock regular customers are already enetering the
Taiwan three times always make a special trip to Shi-Dong sales area in search of treasure. Parenting author Wang Pitsu,
Market to eat them. Seeing the photos in Tong’s phone of who enjoys researching home-cooked cuisine and strolling
him posing with customers from around the world, you get through markets, and is very knowledgeable about Taiwan’s
a real sense of the market’s appeal to international travelers. farming and fisheries industries, is no exception.

24
人,在市集裡快速穿梭,目光精準,跟在後頭的我
希望廣場農民市集 們,常常一轉身她已在另一攤和老闆聊了起來。一
個上午逛下來眼界大開,「在欉紅」的無花果,不
可遇不可求的驚喜
用擔心甜度不夠或「啞巴」;長年外銷日本的黑
位於台北捷運善導寺站附近的希望廣場,是周 蜆,今年因為疫情影響出口,而有幸在希望廣場見
末限定的農民市集。匯聚全台的農漁牧生產者, 到牠黑得發亮的本尊;草菇農自曬的草菇乾,用法
週六清晨,甚至是前一天的深夜,各地的農友就 和乾香菇相似,卻別有一番迷人香氣,就連經常在
載著一批批新鮮的產品,準備讓都會區的民眾大 全台市集走跳的番紅花,也驚呼是第一次見到。
飽口福。雖然表定營業時間是上午十點,熟門熟 逛攤位時除了農友擺放顯眼的主打商品,番紅花
路的民眾,九點多就已帶著菜籃車上門尋寶。喜 更會特別留意農家擺放在一旁的「私人珍藏」,例
歡研究家庭料理、逛市場,且深諳台灣農漁業的 如筍農攤位上一小甕的菜餔,被低調地擺在一旁,
親職作家番紅花,也不例外。 識貨的老饕一問,才知道是20幾年的老菜脯;又或
上希望廣場採買,番紅花習慣先走逛一圈,看 是養蜂人家賣的雞蛋,是蜂農在自家空地放牧養
看今天有哪些值得入手的好物。只見她像個食材獵 雞,自家吃不完,才帶到市集上以實惠的價格和民
眾分享。另一個蛋農,則是準備了自
家炒製的黑鮪魚鬆,是因為前陣子黑
鮪魚滯銷,才會出現的限定商品。
希望廣場每周會安排不同農友來
擺攤,也會依照產季,每周都有不
同的縣市周,因為久久才輪一次擺
攤的機會,農友們都會拿出最自豪

農民帶著最自豪的產品到希望廣場擺攤,
除了分享收成的喜悅,也帶來種植的故
事,拉近人與土地的距離。
Farmers sell their best produce at Hope
Plaza. As well as sharing the joys of harvest,
they tell us about their farming lives, bringing
us closer to the land.

Whenever Wang visits the Hope Plaza market, it is her are used in the same way as dried shiitake mushrooms,
habit to first make a circuit of the venue to see what good but they have an intoxicating aroma, and even Wang,
things are available that day. We follow her as she walks who routinely visits markets all around Taiwan, says
like a hunter of food ingredients, moving quickly though with surprise that this is the first time she has seen them.
the terrain with sharp-eyed alertness. We often find that Strolling among the booths, Wang takes notice of not
if we turn our backs even for a second she is already at only the main products that farmers prominently display,
the next booth, chatting with the owner. Browsing the but even more the “private treasures” set off to the side,
market for just a single morning really opens our eyes. such as the little jar of 20-year-old dried radish on the
There are naturally ripened figs straight from the tree, stand of a bamboo-shoot farmer, or the hen’s eggs sold by
as well as Asian clams, which have long been exported a beekeeper who raises the free-range birds himself.
to Japan but are now available at the Hope Plaza because Hope Plaza arranges for different farmers to set up
the pandemic has hindered exports. Dried straw mush- stalls each week. They also showcase different cities and
rooms, sun-dried by the mushroom farmers themselves, counties each week, depending on what produce is in

25
經常到希望廣場尋寶的番紅花,買菜之餘,也很
喜歡逛這裡的花店,為生活增添樂趣。
Food writer Wang Pitsu often visits the Hope Plaza
Farmers’ Market, where she enjoys browsing the
florist’s shop, as well as shopping for farm produce.

(右圖)來希望廣場可以買到最時鮮的農漁畜
產,感受四季變化,享受大地滋養,還有人與人
互動的那份幸福感。
(facing page) Offering the freshest seasonal produce,
Hope Plaza helps us appreciate not only the bounty
of nature, but human interactions as well.

「食當季、吃在地」的理念,鼓勵大家支
持國產農產品。農民準備符合三章一Q的
產品,意即「有機農產品標章、CAS台灣
優良農產品標章、產銷履歷農產品標章,
以及生產追溯QRcode」,希望廣場也不定
的產品在市集上分享,有的還會遞出名片,豪氣 期送交北農抽檢,讓民眾安心選購。而民眾則來現
地表示,「不好吃歡迎打來罵我。」 場與生產者互動,聊聊種植背後的付出與故事,讓
番紅花笑說,「每次來希望廣場都會有可遇 大眾更認識土地,拉近了產地到餐桌的距離。
不可求的驚喜,我每一次來,都不知道會買到什 喜歡研究料理的番紅花,看到好食材就會想探
麼,但一定不會買不到東西。」看到新奇的農 究,甚至跑到產地進一步了解。像她前陣子到屏
產,番紅花定會買來嚐鮮,能為餐桌增加話題, 東,拜訪在希望廣場結識的椰子哥,才知道採椰是
也增添生活的樂趣。就算來回需要兩個小時車 份高風險的工作,要小心雷擊、蜂螫、蛇咬,一不
程,但希望廣場裡滿滿的當季農作,總讓她樂此 小心就可能從高處摔落。如此得來不易,農友們蘊
不疲,一個月至少來逛個兩、三次。 含心意種植的作物就更值得珍惜。
直到今日,希望廣場仍為許多農民開拓了客源,
產地到餐桌的美好連結
尤其是剛入行的青農。像是花生農張建豪,不僅種
開幕於2001年的希望廣場,最早是因為921大地 花生也學做好吃不黏牙的花生糖,在希望廣場累積
震重創了台灣中部的農業縣市,為了儘速恢復農民 客群後,進而能添購初級加工設備,讓他的從農之
生計,農委會在台北都會區覓了塊地,讓農民展售 路順利前行。又或是種植紫玉米的胡志宏,新手農
產品,蘊含著為農民帶來希望的期待,取名為「希 夫苦無銷售管道,希望廣場給了展售的舞台,長期
望廣場」,並逐漸演變成今日的樣貌。從最早八德 的積累後,如今他的產品已固定外銷香港。
路光華商場旁的四個帳篷,到現在位於林森北路與 除了農漁畜產品,希望廣場還有一間小巧的花
北平東路口,一處明亮通風的半戶外場域,今年秋 店,歡迎民眾單枝選購。花店老闆笑說:來希望
季,希望廣場將迎來3.0的版本。農糧署運銷加工 廣場買了菜,再帶三枝花,增加生活的質感。徐
組專門委員徐惠瑩表示,希望廣場的新址更靠近華 惠瑩笑說,自己每次到希望廣場一逛就是整天,
山藝文特區,設計上會以山巒為意象,並設置打卡 慢慢逛、慢慢聊,累了就到美食區品嚐由農會家
點,期望能吸引更多年輕族群前來休憩。 政班準備的美食小吃。看到喜歡的產品,要張名
不論是1.0到3.0,即使場域外觀有所革新,不變 片,直接宅配訂購很方便,但她更鼓勵大家,產
的是,農政單位想透過希望廣場來串起生產者與消 季時來希望廣場與農友面對面,就像來見老朋友
費者的那份心意。徐惠瑩表示,希望廣場以台灣農 一樣。這種人與人互動的溫度,讓希望廣場成了
業櫥窗為定位,除了作為展售場域外,更希望傳達 傳遞幸福感的溫暖場域。 l

26
season. Farmers bring their finest products to the market venue can interact with farmers directly, chatting about the
and some even hand out name cards and proudly say: “If it stories behind the produce they cultivate and the effort they
doesn’t taste good, feel free to call me and complain.” put in, thus closing the distance between farm and table.
Wang Pitsu says with a smile that whenever she comes to Wang is always keen to learn more about good ingredi-
Hope Plaza she happens upon unexpected delights. When ents that she finds, and even travels to the areas where they
she sees novel produce, she will always buy some to try are produced. For example, she recently went to Pingtung
out, just to make life more interesting. Despite the two-hour County to visit a coconut farmer she met at Hope Plaza,
round trip from her home, she finds the market endlessly and she discovered that when harvesting coconuts farmers
enjoyable, and comes at least two or three times a month. have to be cautious of lightning, bees, and snakes, and are
Linking farm to table in danger of falling if they are not careful. Crops that farm-
Hope Plaza Farmers’ Market was launched in 2001, orig- ers invest so much commitment in deserve to be treasured.
inally with the aim of helping farmers in Central Taiwan Throughout its existence, the Hope Plaza market has
rebuild their livelihoods after the devastation of the 1999 Jiji helped many farmers to develop their customer base. For
Earthquake. Enabling farmers to display and sell their goods example, peanut farmer Zhang Jianhao not only grows
in downtown Taipei was intended to bring them new hope, peanuts, but has learned how to make peanut brittle that
so the location was named “Hope Plaza.” This autumn, the tastes good but doesn’t stick to your teeth. After building
Hope Plaza market will enter its third incarnation, on a new up a clientele at Hope Plaza he was able to buy primary
site closer to the Huashan 1914 Creative Park and with a de- processing equipment. Then there is purple corn farmer
sign based on the imagery of a mountain range. Hu Zhihong, who as a novice farmer had no sales channels
Hsu Hwey-ying, a senior executive officer in the Market- for his produce, but found a platform to display his goods
ing and Processing Division of the Agriculture and Food at Hope Plaza and now even exports them to Hong Kong.
Agency, states that Hope Plaza seeks to be a showcase for Hope Plaza also has a small flower shop where you can
Taiwanese agriculture and to encourage people to eat local buy flowers by the stem to add color to life. Hsu Hwey-ying
foods in season. Farmers supply foods that are certified un- says with a laugh that each time she goes to Hope Plaza
der the Taiwan Organic, Certified Agricultural Standards, she spends the whole day there slowly browsing and chat-
and Traceable Agricultural Products systems, or bear a ting, and when she gets tired she goes to the cooked food
traceability QR code. Meanwhile, shoppers who come to the area to try some dishes prepared by teams from farmers’
associations. If she sees something she likes, she asks for a
name card and has the product conveniently delivered to
her home. She tells everyone that when you come to Hope
Plaza for seasonal products, it is like coming to see old
friends. The friendly contacts between people are what
makes Hope Plaza Farmers’ Market a heartwarming
venue that conveys a sense of wellbeing. l
(Chen Chun-fang/photos by Kent Chuang/
tr. by Phil Newell)

27
屏東東港魚市場、基隆崁仔頂魚市場 Donggang and Kanzaiding Fish Markets

東港生鮮魚市場裡,滿地的魚貨是豐收的心情。
The fish covering the floor in Donggang Fish Market
create an atmosphere of abundance.

28
尚青ㄟ底家啦!
封面故事

COVER
S TO RY

Starting the Day


Fresh and Early:
Fish Markets of
Southern and
Northern Taiwan
南北魚市場風情
文 •
鄧慧純
 
圖 •
林格立 版面設計 •
 
蕭郢岑

29
「魚」音通「餘」,在台灣社會「魚」是美好
豐足的象徵。年節喜慶的餐桌上,必定有一尾魚, 屏東——東港魚市場
而且長輩會叮囑別吃光了,因為要「年年有餘」。
因鮪魚而繁榮的小鎮
台灣四面環海,全球第二大的洋流黑潮終年
經過台灣,形成周邊的天然漁場,漁業資源豐 「當年東港魚市場第一尾黑鮪魚是我抓的,」
富。沿海居民依海維生,媽祖保佑漁民出入平 年逾80歲的老船長蘇進回想民國60年(1971年)
安;原住民喜歡稱大海是自家的冰箱,要加菜, 跟黑鮪魚較勁的故事,「那次出海預計要抓鮪
噗通一聲跳入海中就有。島上的居民走一趟魚市 魚,但是那隻魚上鉤了,我知道牠體型很大,抓
場,就把各式的EPA、DHA等營養帶回家。 鮪魚的漁線比較細,不能用力拉,否則會斷,就
跟牠糾纏了一兩個小時,耗到牠沒力了,才抓上
船。」他駕駛的CT2(噸數10以上未滿20噸之漁
船),還塞不下這麼大的魚,要把尾節砍斷,才
漁船進港,魚隻被小心翼翼地吊出船艙。
After a fishing boat enters harbor, the fish are carefully hoisted
冰得進去。「返回港口後,那時候大家還不認識
from the hold using hooks.
牠,價錢也賣不好。」
當時東港的魚貨還沒外銷出口,蘇進一一點數
著,是鬼頭刀先外銷美國,之後在理事長林德和
等人的奔走下,鮪旗魚才開始外銷日本,黑鮪魚
接著打開日本市場。
東港文史工作者、日木水巷創辦人蘇煌文說起
東港的發展,東港在清領時期以貿易商港留名,直
到日本殖民的後期,鄰近的大鵬灣成為水上機場基
地,東港因此成為軍事重地,在二戰後期,還曾
是美軍重要的轟炸目標。東港的轉變發生在1970年
代,政府的十大建設開展對地方的投資,東港開始
因漁業及魚貨出口而繁榮。
蘇進小學畢業(1956年)就上船學習,20歲出頭
當上船長,他聊起當年台灣近海的資源豐富,他笑
著說:「那時候人憨,魚仔也憨。魚的資源很多,
憨憨抓就有了。」但其實一名認真的船長,當然知
道這一趟出海要抓什麼魚,去哪個漁場,要用甚麼
漁具,什麼節氣有什麼魚。每趟出海約一個星期,
蘇進抓回來的鮪魚都比別的船家大尾,市場價格
好,生活也漸富裕了。蘇進說起漁民們如何從貧困
日趨好轉的歷程。
有趣的是,東港知名的王船祭典也印證了這
段歷史。歷年來的王船祭典都是在地居民出錢出
力,以往的王船都是紙糊的,蘇煌文點出:「第
一艘木造的王船是在1976年,這也是討海人生活
逐漸富裕的時間點。」
魚抓得多,漁民富裕了,漁船也越造越大,一
年造了上百艘,跑近海、跑遠洋的都有,而除了捕

30
I n Chinese the word for “fish” (yu) sounds the same
as the word for “surplus,” so fish has always been
an auspicious symbol. Fish is de rigueur at Lunar New
yet exported. Su recalls how it was only through the efforts
of former fishermen’s association chairman Lin Dehe and
others that Donggang began to export tuna and sailfish to
Year, and the older generation will say it’s best not to Japan, followed by bluefin tuna.
eat it all, so that there is a “surplus” in the new year. Local historian Su Huangwen, founder of the Donggang
Taiwan is surrounded by sea, and the Kuroshio Cur- Cultural and Historical Space, relates that in the Qing Dy-
rent, the world’s second largest ocean current, flows past nasty the town was known as a trading port. Near the end of
it all year round. There are many natural fishing grounds the era of Japanese rule there was a seaplane base at neigh-
around the island with abundant fishery resources. boring Dapeng Bay, so Donggang became a military center.
When residents go to a fish market, they can
bring home seafoods rich in nutrients such as
糶手(拍賣員)口中快速喊價,交易就在一個默會的眼神、手勢中完成。
the Omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA. The auctioneer rapidly calls the bids and sales are completed with just a
subtle glance or gesture.

Pingtung’s Donggang Fish Market

A town built on tuna


“It was me who caught the first bluefin tuna sold
at Donggang Fish Market.” So says octogenarian
fishing captain Su Jin, recalling his struggle against
the huge fish back in 1971. “We went to sea expect-
ing to catch tuna, but when that fish was hooked, I
could tell it was much bigger than ordinary tuna.
We couldn’t just pull it in or the line would break,
so we played it for an hour or two until it was ex-
hausted, and then brought it on board.”
At that time fish landed at Donggang were not

拖網魚市場從凌晨兩點開始交易,直到天色漸亮才收攤。
The trawl fishing market opens for business in the wee hours of the
morning, and closes up at daybreak.

31
許多民眾奔東港就為了這季節限
定的「黑鮪魚」。
Many people visit Donggang just for
the bluefin tuna, which is in season
for only a limited period.

年女性禁止上船,因此只
能聚在港邊,協助船邊作
業,賺取微薄的生活費。
因為卸貨作業挨近船頭,
因此在地人喚她們為「走
船頭仔」,是東港至今仍
能見到的風景。
卸下的魚貨有冰鮮和冷
凍兩種。冰鮮是指魚捕撈
魚,周邊的行業如造船、船隻維修、製冰、海產 上船後在短時間內將溫度降到零度的保存方式。
店、魚販等,蘇進不無感慨地說:「鮪魚真的帶動 冷凍則是捕撈後,以急速冷凍的方式保鮮。我們
了東港十幾種行業的興盛。」而2001年屏東縣政府 不懂怎麼冷凍的魚貨都沒了頭,東港區漁會魚市
舉辦「屏東黑鮪魚文化觀光季」,結合了漁業、觀 場主任鄧自斌解釋:「魚頭的鰓和內臟會影響魚
光和品牌節慶,帶起東港另一波的熱潮。 肉的品質,因此都要先去掉,這樣拍賣的價位比
東港另一個佳話是漁民成立櫻花蝦產銷班,透 較好。」
過自律休漁,規範定時、定量捕捉,永續海洋資 卸貨的同時,走船頭仔們快手快腳地把魚一隻
源。如今僅特許115艘漁船領有牌照,並限定在每 隻在地板上排列好,買家同時遊走在其間,鑑定肉
年11月到5月捕抓,透過保育櫻花蝦,使市場價錢 色。「目前東港的生鮮魚市場交易方式有兩種:議
更持平上漲,人與海洋,共利、共享,更永續。 價和拍賣。」鄧自斌解釋。許多船隻在進港前,整
艘的魚貨就已議價賣出;但也有船家選擇進拍賣市
魚市場的接力作業線
場。船家會聘請糶手代為拍賣,其多是經驗熟練的
凌晨兩點,一般民眾正在酣夢之際,南台灣的 漁業人員,糶手一腳踩著要拍賣的魚隻,買家就會
東港魚市場正準備開張。最先登場的是拖網魚市 快速聚攏到他身邊,他依據當日魚貨量與品質喊出
場的交易,傳統市場的魚販、餐廳、辦桌需用的 底價,「百二、百三、百三、百四」(台語),現
大量食材,都到此採買。 場氣氛安靜但又詭譎,交易就在一個默會的眼神、
只見三五人蹲聚一起成為作業線,虱目魚去 手勢中完成。
頭,清除內臟,再片成市場上常見的虱目魚肚 中午12點,渡船頭旁的黃昏市場「華僑市場」
片,打包出貨。還有單人手持電動工具,將堆成 亮了燈,佔地近1,500坪的市場空間,內有逾400多
山的魚隻一一去除鱗片,一旁有人在清洗收集鱗 個攤位,區分為鮮魚區、生、熟食區、漁特產區及
片,一邊告訴我們鱗片可加工熬成膠凍。許多的 美食攤。進到此區,眼睛與嘴巴都得到滿足,各式
食材都在這方空間前期處理,再送往各商家,這 的魚鮮,可跟老闆討教名稱、口感、料理方式,還
是僅批發市場才可見的景象。 可以買了魚鮮請店家代為烹煮,享受產地到餐桌零
凌晨六點,拖網魚市場已漸散去,另一碼頭 距離的鮮味。華僑市場的喧囂一直持續到夜間八九
旁,漁船開始卸貨。岸上的婦人們,手拿著勾魚 點,才熄燈。幾個小時後,隔壁的拖網魚市場燈又
的「搭鈎」,或推著平板車協助卸魚、過磅。早 亮起了,這就是魚市場的日常。

32
In the 1970s, the government invested money in the area as out. A lot of seafood undergoes initial processing in this
part of the Ten Major Construction Projects, and the town space before it is shipped to traders.
began to prosper as a fishing harbor and seafood exporter. By 6 a.m., the trawl fishing market has wound up, while
Su Jin began his apprenticeship as soon as he finished at another wharf fishing boats are unloading their catch.
primary school in 1956, and became a captain at age 20. He Women on shore use hooks or push dollies to help
recalls that in those days there were abundant fish in Tai- unload and weigh fish. In the old days there was a taboo
wan’s coastal waters. But still on each trip a captain needed against women boarding the boats, so they had to remain
to know what fish to target, what fishing grounds to visit, on shore and help with quayside operations. Because fish
what methods to use, and what fish were available in which are offloaded near the bow of a vessel, the women are
season. Su caught bigger tuna than his competitors, earning called “those who go to the bow,” and they are still a com-
a higher market price, and his wealth gradually increased. mon sight in Donggang.
Donggang’s famous Wangye worshipping ceremony also As fish are offloaded, the women quickly line them up
testifies to that period of history. In earlier times, the Wangye on the ground ready for sale. “Currently two methods of
boat that is burned during the ceremony, paid for and built trading are used at our fresh fish market: price negotiation
by local residents, was made of papier maché. Su Huangwen and auction,” explains Deng Zibin, fish market director for
says: “The first wooden Wangye Boat was built in 1976, the Donggang Fishermen’s Association. Many fishing boats
which is just when local fishermen were becoming well off.” have already sold their entire catch at a negotiated price
Another wave of activity was launched in Donggang in before even entering harbor, but there are still some boat
2001, when the Pingtung County Government held the first owners who hire agents to auction off their catch.
Pingtung BlueFin Tuna Cultural Festival, making the fishing At 12 noon, the afternoon and evening Huaqiao Market
industry a focus of tourism. opens for business, with more than 400 vendors. The market
Another source of local pride is the fact that fishermen satisfies both eyes and palate. You can ask vendors about
have formed a sakura shrimp production and marketing co- the names, textures, and methods of preparation of all
operative to regulate their shrimp fishing activities. Today kinds of seafood, and you can even buy fresh fish and have
only 115 fishing boats are licensed to catch sakura shrimp, eateries cook it up for you on the spot. There is continual
and only from November through May. Through conserva- bustle at Huaqiao Market until eight or nine at night, when
tion, the sakura shrimp’s market price has gradually risen, it finally closes. A few hours later the lights go on again for
benefiting both fishermen and ocean sustainability. the trawl fishing market, as the daily routine begins anew.
A never-ending relay race
It’s 2 a.m., and Donggang Fish Market
is preparing to open. First up is trading
in the trawl fishing market. Fishmongers
from traditional markets, restaurant oper-
ators, and caterers all come here to buy.
Several groups of people are seated
together, forming a production line. They
remove the heads of milkfish, then gut
them and cut them up into the milkfish
fillets usually seen for sale, after which
the fillets are packaged and shipped

華僑市場裡各式的魚鮮擺滿攤位,關於
魚的疑問店家都樂意解惑。
The vendors’ booths at Donggang’s Huaqiao
Market are filled with all kinds of seafood,
and the proprietors are happy to answer any
questions you may have about their wares.

33
消費者的想法,我跟爸爸談了一夜,他問要怎麼
基隆——崁仔頂魚市場 改,我說我們走生鮮的,這個是未來的趨勢。」

北台灣的生鮮直送 魚市場夜未眠

步出深夜11點的基隆火車站,店家多已拉下鐵 12點多,店家還在準備開張,就有客戶上門,
門,城市只剩招牌和信號燈閃爍,從忠一路轉進孝 這時間光顧的多是日本料理餐廳的買主,「他們
一路,馬上撲鼻的腥味迎來,「啊!是海味,魚市 早點來,可以選到比較好的魚貨回去。餐廳開到
場到了。」又眼前一亮,點點燈火亮起,白日緊鎖 晚上九點,打烊後趕到崁仔頂,直接跟賣家議
的鐵捲門被拉起,大貨車魚貫地駛入,車上一箱箱 價,採買完可以早點回去休息。」
用於保冷魚貨的保麗龍箱接力被卸下。 凌晨兩點,多是批發商進來選貨,但不時還有
店門口的騎樓,有三兩員工蹲在地上,把剛倒卸 貨車在下貨,「我們這邊的特色就是一邊進貨,
一地的魚鮮區分鮮度、大小,店門口的空間則排滿 一邊賣。」彭瑞祺說。他指著車上箱子的外國標
待價而沽的各式魚種。市場周邊碎冰車、讓人止飢 籤說明,這是進口的,剛從桃園機場過來。市場
的深夜攤販,也蓄勢待發地迎接魚市開市。 有分議價和拍賣兩種成交方式,「進口和養殖的
「晚上11點開始進貨,要忙到凌晨五點才收
場。」這回我們邀請崁仔頂聯誼會會長,同時也
是義隆魚行第三代負責人彭瑞祺為我們引路、看
門道。「我年輕的時候不是這樣的,以前早上
四點半才開始營業。」因為高速公路、雪山隧
道接續開通,交通越來越便利,以致營業時間不
斷提前。從各地來採買的業者或寄賣的魚貨,也
都彙集在此,「我們這邊要應付至少半個台灣的
消費者,東邊從花蓮,西邊到台中,都來這邊採
購。」彭瑞祺說。連宜蘭大溪漁港魚貨也來基隆
賣?「對,首都的消費水平較高,比較買得起高
級魚貨,所以他們都送到這邊來賣,價錢比較
好,還有從金門、澎湖寄過來的。」
崁仔頂的歷史最早可追溯到清領時期。以前
孝一路和愛一路之間有旭川運河,一直到1978年
運河才加蓋,彭瑞祺指著義隆魚行對面的集合建
築,「以前那個位置就是河道,漲潮的時候,船
可以直接開到店家前下貨,退潮的時候就要自己
搬上石階,『崁仔頂』的名稱就這樣而來。」
以前崁仔頂不像現在只賣生鮮,還兼賣醃製
品跟乾貨。是彭瑞祺觀察到局勢的轉變,率先翻
轉市場,「要跟上世界對食物觀念的改變,還有

魚市場的工作模式是晚上不睡覺,白天不早起,市場的人常
常這樣打趣道。
People who work in fish markets don’t sleep at night, so they get
up late the next day. They often make jokes about this way of life.

34
糶手要掌控拍賣氣氛,快速成交出買賣雙方滿意的價
格,這種叫賣方式台語裡稱作「武市」。
Auctioneers must keep up bidders’ enthusiasm in order to
rapidly reach prices that satisfy both buyer and seller.

Keelung’s Kanzaiding Fish Market ers from all over, and fish placed for sale on consignment, are
gathered here. “Here we serve consumers across half of Tai-
Fresh seafood for Northern Taiwan wan, with people coming to buy fresh fish from as far away
Stepping out of Keelung Station around midnight and as Hualien in the east and Taichung in the west,” says Peng.
turning from Zhong 1st Road onto Xiao 1st Road, your Shoppers in Taipei can afford higher-grade seafood, so sellers
nose is assailed by a fishy smell. Steel roll-up doors, closed from all over bring their fish here to sell at a better price.
tightly during the day, are open, and a line of trucks pull Kanzaiding’s history can be traced back to the Qing Dy-
in to offload styrofoam boxes containing chilled fish. nasty. Peng points to the building across from his shop and
On the covered sidewalk outside shop doors, small says: “In the past the river was right there, and at high tide
groups of people squat as they sort just-offloaded fish by boats could unload fish right at the shops’ front door, but at
freshness and size. All kinds of fish are lined up at the low tide you had to bring the fish up the stone steps from
shop doors waiting to be sold to the highest bidder. the river yourself, which is how Kanzaiding [literally “top of
“We start bringing in product at 11 p.m. and we don’t get the river bank”] got its name.”
finished until 5 a.m.” On this visit to the
Kanzaiding Fish Market we have asked
Peng Ruiqi, third-generation owner
of Yilong Fish Shop and head of the
Kanzaiding Friendship Association, to
be our guide. “When I was young we
didn’t start up until 4:30 a.m.” Thanks to
the freeways and the Xueshan Tunnel,
transportation has become easier, caus-
ing the market to open ever earlier. Buy-

華燈初上,崁仔頂魚市場的魚貨來自各
地,供應半個台灣的消費者。
The seafood at Keelung’s Kanzaiding Fish
Market comes from all over and supplies
consumers across half of Taiwan.

35
魚貨,有成本的壓力,因此多是用議價的。野生 手不斷地調整價格,調到最高價的時候,價錢只
的就以拍賣居多。」 喊一次,並且拉長尾音,這樣馬上就能賣出,而
拍賣是由各家糶手主持,糶手依據當日的魚貨 且成交速度非常快,糶手就厲害在這地方。」糶
量和品質,決定起標的價格,糶手要眼光敏銳,反 手飛快的語速營造拍賣現場的緊迫感,同時掌控
應快,掌握市場變化,快速成交出買賣雙方滿意的 著拍賣的節奏,刺激購買者趕緊下手,這是崁仔
價格,這是台灣已少見且屬獨門絕技的傳統職業。 頂最有看頭的風景。
這種主動地叫賣方式,彭瑞祺解釋台語裡稱作「武 凌晨三點,一輛小貨車停在義隆魚行前,車上
市」,如果是靜靜等著顧客上門的就是「文市」, 裝了數個沉重的方形塑膠桶,彭瑞祺丟下一句:
從遣詞用字就活跳跳地形容兩種銷售的特色。 「這是12點出去海釣的軟絲,直接送到市場來賣,
各商家訓練出來的糶手,風格也不同。彭瑞祺 ……」就趕上前幫忙,兩三個壯丁,合力把裝滿軟
說:「我們家有一個技巧,是別人學不起來,糶 絲的塑膠桶順著木板搭起的斜坡推下車,送到後場
分籃,再送到前場拍賣。這時市
場人潮更多了,許多是傳統市場
的魚販進來採買早市的貨色。
越夜越美麗,凌晨四點,各家
的糶手喊價的聲響此起彼落,魚
貨一籃一籃、一堆一堆的成交。
我們看著後場還滿滿的魚貨,
「今天賣得完嗎?」彭瑞祺信心
滿滿的點頭。只見糶手持續地把
魚貨放上電子秤,確定斤兩,與
買家一個手勢、一個眼神成交。
成交的價錢是以斤作單位,一旁
的員工依成交金額按著計算機,
報出總數,另一位則記帳收現,
簡潔俐落地不超過一分鐘,「以
前的時代更厲害,還是撥算盤
呢!」同時間,開始有散客進市
場來,這時有些賣家也願意將魚
貨一隻兩隻零星出售了。
果然五點,如彭瑞祺的預測,
魚貨全數銷空。員工開始清洗器
具,刷洗地板。探向天空,天亮
了,這座城市剛甦醒,但這街區
已結束了最戰鬥的時刻,這最生
猛的所在,果然名不虛傳。 l

彭瑞祺是義隆魚行第三代負責人,也是
崁仔頂魚市場的活字典。
Peng Ruiqi, third-generation owner of
Yilong Fish Shop, is a living encyclopedia
on Kanzaiding Fish Market.

36
天色漸亮,這座城市剛甦醒,但崁仔頂剛結束了最戰鬥的時刻。
As the sky begins to lighten and the city wakes up, the toughest part of the day is already over at Kanzaiding Fish Market.

In the past Kanzaiding not only sold fresh fish like to- number just one time and stretch out the last syllable. This
day, but also pickled and dried products. Peng helped lead way the product can be sold at once and the process is
the way in transforming the market. “I had a long talk with very fast. That’s how you can tell a skilled auctioneer.” The
my father and he asked me how to change the market. I said auctioneers’ rapid speech builds an atmosphere of tension,
we should go for fresh fish, that’s the trend of the future.” while at the same time they control the rhythm of the auc-
Sleepless in the fish market tion and prompt buyers to make their bids quickly.
Shortly after midnight, shops are still getting ready to At 3 a.m. a small truck arrives at Yilong Fish Shop. “It’s
open. Most of the customers who come by at this time are delivering squid caught by boats that go to sea at midnight,
buyers for Japanese-style restaurants. bringing it directly here to be sold,” explains Peng, as he
At 2 a.m., most of the customers are wholesalers, but hurries to help with the unloading. At this time the market is
there are still some trucks offloading fish. “What makes us more crowded and many fishmongers from traditional mar-
unique is that fish are being shipped in even as they are be- kets come to buy the goods they will sell the same morning.
ing sold,” says Peng. He points to some boxes of imported At 4 a.m., the voices of auctioneers at various businesses
fish that have just arrived from Taoyuan Inter national rise and fall, and products are sold by the basket or pile. Auc-
Airport. Here business is done in two ways: by price nego- tioneers place each lot of product on electronic scales to con-
tiation and auction. “Imported and farmed fish have higher firm the weight, and seal the deal with the buyer with a ges-
costs, so most are sold by negotiated price. Most fish caught ture or a glance. Off to one side an assistant uses a calculator
at sea are sold at auction.” to work out the total price based on the final bid per catty
The auctioneers decide starting bids based on the quan- (600 grams), while another records the sale in the ledger and
tity and quality of that day’s fish. They have to be perceptive accepts the cash. The whole process takes less than a minute.
and quick on the uptake to keep abreast of changes in the By 5 a.m., as Peng anticipated, the seafood is all sold out.
market and rapidly reach a price that satisfies both parties. Workers begin to clean the delivery containers and the floor.
Auctioneers trained by different businesses have dif- Looking up, the sky is lightening. The city is just waking up,
ferent styles. Peng says: “Our shop has a trick that others but this market is already through for the day. It’s no exag-
can’t learn. As the auctioneers call out new prices one after geration to say that this is where the action is. l
another, when it gets to the highest price they call out the (Cathy Teng/photos by Jimmy Lin/tr. by Phil Newell)

37
市場.建築 Market buildings

位於新竹南寮漁港的波光市集。
Boguang Market is situated at Hsinchu
City’s Nanliao Fishing Port.

38
老市場的重生與蛻變
封面故事

COVER
S TO RY

Metamorphosis:
Revitalizing
Old Markets

連結地景與文化的

文 •
地方新樞紐
蘇俐穎
 
圖 •
林旻萱 版面設計 •
 
蕭郢岑

39
每個國家的大型地標無庸置疑是頂尖建築師 這些空間之所以吸引人,除了囊括大江南北
爭相競逐的一級舞台,然而與日常生活關聯甚深 的好貨,關鍵更在於設計。然而,當我問起盧俊
的公共空間,才是在地人更有共鳴的存在。市場 廷,經手過三座市場的他,對市場建築的期許?
在庶民文化中擔綱重要的角色,近年許多台灣的 答案出乎意料地務實,他說,與其談論觀念、理
老市場,紛紛褪去老舊的鐵皮屋頂穿上新裝,除 想,他更希望自己的作品,「所有人能理解,容
了硬體大幅升級,它們與過去又有何不同? 易親近,可以受到民眾的喜歡。」

打開方盒子,引導人入內
踏入位於台北魚市場旁「上引水產」,生猛
的活體海鮮率先映入眼簾,這兒並不是市場,但 開業來到第11年,盧俊廷主持的建築師事務
從生鮮到熟食,果蔬到花材卻一應俱全,零售以 所,累積經手的案子不脫長照中心、校園、市場
外,還有輕鬆享用的立食區,與饒有異國風情的 一類的公共建設,因為比起私人住宅,「公共建
露天燒烤區,這是建築師盧俊廷心目中,最貼近 築接觸到的使用者比較多,民眾會前往,讓我特
市場想像的一處場所。 別有成就感。」盧俊廷如此說。他前後設計過三
新 鮮 、 活 力 、 令 人 食 指 大 動 …… 除 了 以 上 座公有市場建築,包括頗具代表性的中壢第一市
這些基本條件,一座市場還能傳遞出哪些想 場,以及2020年落成的林口市場,還有當下正在
像?可能前衛如荷蘭鹿特丹的「市集廣場」 執行,以改造為主的桃園龍潭市場。
(Markthal),大膽的拱形建築,結合辦公、社 盧俊廷所說的「易懂、易親近」,被我以使用者
會住宅與市場機能,全然顛覆市場的既定印象, 的角度理解成一種「有人味」的表現。席間我們恰
更勾勒出未來城市的願景。或者,簡約如新竹南 好談及在數年前拆除的台北建成圓環,巨大的圓型
寮漁港的「波光市集」,這是建築師林聖峰的作 建築直接矗立在車水馬龍的大馬路中央,建築體以
品,洗鍊的波浪狀線條,呼應著濱海風景,展現 玻璃帷幕包覆得密密實實,缺少由外入內的引導介
出強烈的學院派語彙。 面,留不住人潮的圓環市場,終以失敗告終。

有著溫潤木牆、植生牆外觀的林口市場,亦是一座綠建築。
With wooden walls draped with greenery, New Taipei City’s Linkou Market is an eco-friendly building.

40
W hile landmark structures in every country
articulate the idiosyncratic visions of emi-
nent architects, those public spaces that are closely
care facilities, school campuses, and markets. Over the
years, Lu has designed three public markets. Zhongli
First Public Market is the most representative of these
intertwined with our everyday lives have a greater commissions. The others are New Taipei City’s Linkou
emotional resonance for us. Traditional markets Market, which was completed in 2020, and Taoyuan’s
are important sites in popular culture. In recent Longtan Market, which is currently being renovated.
years, many of Taiwan’s tin-clad old markets have From the perspective of a market-goer, I take the
been rebuilt, but what else has changed aside from qualities of being “approachable” and “relatable” that
physical renovation? Lu aspires to in his works to mean “expressing a human
touch.” Our conversation touches upon the market at
Fresh produce, indefatigable vigor, delicious food… the Jiancheng Circle in Taipei, which was demol ished
what other things do you think of when it comes to a few years ago despite being relatively new. The large
markets? Perhaps you recall the avant-garde novelty of circular structure stood at the center of a busy junction.
Rotterdam’s Markthal, whose bold archwise structure Entirely clad in glass, it didn’t encourage access from
houses a market hall as well as offices
and apartments, overturning our stereo-
types of traditional markets. Perhaps
you have visited Boguang Market at
Hsinchu City’s Nanliao Fishing Port.
Designed by architect Sheng-Feng Lin,
its refined wavy lines at once mirror
the surrounding seascape and evoke a
Beaux-Arts architectural style.
These spaces attract visitors not only
because they gather together all sorts
of goods from different places, but also
because of their architectural charm.
However, when I ask architect Lu Chun-
ting about his ideal market architecture,
his answer is surprisingly down to
earth. Rather than indulging himself in
lofty ideas, Lu, who has designed three
market buildings, says he wishes to pro-
duce works that are “approachable” and
“relatable” to everyone, that “the public
may enjoy.”
Encouraging access
Lu Chun-ting’s architectural firm is
now in its 11th year. Almost without ex-
ception, the projects he has taken on so
far are public works such as long-term

擅長公共建築的盧俊廷,已經手三座市場
建築。
Specializing in public architecture, Lu Chun-
ting has designed three market buildings.

41
有此前車之鑑,今日的建築師更致力於思考 「把封閉的空間打開,把人引導入內」,此
如何打開封閉的市場空間。正在如火如荼興建的 一特點在中壢第一市場發揮得淋漓盡致。中壢
台北南門市場即一例,該案由建築師張清華與郭 第一市場是盧俊廷拿下的第一個市場建築案
英釗率領的「九典聯合建築師事務所」團隊所設 子,中壢人的他對於被暱稱為「大時鐘」的中
計,由模擬圖來看,預計高達12層樓的龐大建 壢第一市場情感尤深,他笑稱,因為從在地人
物,採用了大量可看見室內的落地窗,面對羅斯 的視角出發,才讓彼時剛開業、初出茅廬的他
福路一段與南海路交叉路口的尖銳立面更直接被 順利拿到案子。
打破,轉化成為可供用餐的陽台空間,熱絡的人 「這個建築最基本的手法,就是讓外面的人
潮呼應室外的熱鬧街景。 們可以看到建築物裡豐富的生活。」他解釋。市
盧俊廷設計的市場建築亦如是。以林口市場為 場原地重建,除了面對馬路的主要立面採用玻璃
例,他捨棄「蓋一座完整大方盒」的念頭,基地上 帷幕,帷幕上裝設兩層樓高的時鐘,呼應了昔日
一株百年茄苳,自然資源得天獨厚,「再怎樣設 「大時鐘」之名,以此確立地標意象,通透的牆
計,也不會比這棵老樹好。」他認為,他把市場設 面讓路過的人們可以清楚看見室內人流的風景。
計成以環抱老樹為核心的L型,另外加上了一處通 他還刻意規劃出市場前後兩處廣場、屋頂露台,
往老樹廣場的戶外穿堂,不僅具有串聯起市場前後 與多架位在戶外的電扶梯、樓梯與逃生梯,作為
巷道的功用,穿堂兩側擺上多張木作長椅,即便不 「內」與「外」的緩衝與銜接,目的就是,「讓
進到室內,周遭來去的人們都可以在此歇憩。 在外面的人,會因為好奇忍不住踏入。」他說。

42
the exterior. The market turned out to be a fiasco, unable to Furthermore, the sharp corner at the junction of
attract enough customers. Roosevelt Road Section 1 and Nanhai Road is de-
The unfortunate case of the Jiancheng Circle has com- liberately broken to form balconies that will serve
pelled architects to consider how to open up enclosed market as dining areas. These vibrant spaces will suggest
spaces. Taipei City’s Nanmen Market, whose reconstruction a continuity with the bustling city outside.
is now in full swing, provides an illuminating example. Ac- “Open up an enclosed space, and guide peo-
cording to the designs of Bio-Architecture Formosana—a firm ple into the building.” This concept finds perfect
led by architects Chang Ching-hwa and Kuo Ying-chao—the expression in the recently rebuilt Zhongli First
12-story new building will feature an abundance of floor-to- Public Market, the first in a series of markets Lu
ceiling windows, which will mitigate any sense of enclosure. Chun-ting has been commissioned to design.
Himself hailing from Zhongli, Lu has a soft spot
for this particular market, which locals affection-
ately call “The Big Clock.” He jokes that it was his
(左圖)環繞著百年老茄苳樹而建的林口市場。
local perspective that helped him win the com-
(facing page) Linkou Market is built around an old bishopwood tree
(Bischofia javanica). mission, despite being a newly fledged architect
at the time.
林口市場的建築同時複合了公托、圖書館等公共設施,行走內部, “The fundamental strategy employed for this
舉目可見綠意。 project was to enable people outside the building
The Linkou Market building also houses a public daycare center, a library,
and other facilities. Visitors are greeted by greenery at every turn. to glimpse the vibrant life inside,” Lu explains.
Erected on its original site, the new edifice has
glass curtain walls on one of its road-facing sides.
True to the market’s nickname, a two-story-high
timepiece has been installed on one of the walls
as a defining feature of this landmark. The trans-
parent walls provide visual access to the interior.
In addition, Lu has designed open areas at the
front and rear of the building, a rooftop garden,
and escalators, staircases, and fire escapes that
are attached to the exterior of the structure. These
architectural elements serve as buffers or links
between the outside and the inside. The aim is to
“arouse the curiosity of passersby and encourage
them to enter the building.”
Working with the environment
A gentle, soft-spoken man, Lu doesn’t gush
when talking about his design concepts. Rather
than reveling in highfalutin visions, he often re-
fers to the preexisting conditions at a site as “the
environment,” and thinks of an architect’s design
activity as a form of “arrangement.” This implies
a philosophy that ultimately depends on the envi-
ronment: prime consideration is given to nature,
to which design should be subordinated.
Most of the projects carried out by Lu’s firm
have been certified as gold or diamond-rated
green buildings under Taiwan’s EEWH certifica-
tion system. “Green buildings are our forte,” Lu

43
重建後的中壢第一市場,通透的
玻璃帷幕讓路上行人看見室內風
景,另外裝上的兩層樓高的大時
鐘呼應著市場昔日之名。
The rebuilt Zhongli First Public
Market has glass curtain walls
that provide visual access to the
interior. A two-story-high timepiece
recalls the market’s longstanding
nickname, “The Big Clock.”

冬暖夏涼,也因此無須額外花大錢購置節能玻璃
依循環境作設計
或者高檔的空調系統,綠建築的造價未必會比一
說話相當溫和的盧俊廷,談起設計想法,並沒 般建築更高。
有流露太多感性,不談高蹈的理念,他多用「環 但以市場建築來說,因其機能需求,還需要
境」來指稱基地的先決條件,並用「整理」來表 格外講究排油、排煙,尤其台灣氣候高溫多雨,
示建築師的設計手法,暗示其態度,是以環境為 生鮮食材更忌直曬,如何採光會是設計著力的重
依歸,自然才是需要設計去配合的主位。 點。盧俊廷進一步解釋,大面積的落地窗裝設首
溫潤的木料與生機盎然的植生牆,是他的市場建 選在北方,因為北方來的光線較柔和,但因台灣
築予人最鮮明的印象,木材上的節瘤與紋理,隨風 午後有西北雨,故窗上得額外裝設雨遮;至於南
輕輕搖動的綠葉,都能讓人體驗到與自然親近的愉 向,可以採用水平遮陽,但亦不能遮蔽太多,免
悅感,「這些元素,很難被取代。」盧俊廷認為。 得室內過於昏暗;東西向的牆面最不考慮開窗。
當然,不只這些表象。事務所經手的案子,多
從市場出發,點亮地方的未來
數通過高規的黃金級或鑽石級綠建築標章,「綠
建築是我們的專長之一。」盧俊廷說得自信又自 一處市場之所以誕生,不外乎方位地利之便、
然,但他強調,標章認證反倒是其次,最基本的 物資的流通、人潮聚集等因素。但因陋就簡的建築
還是依據當地的環境、氣候、方位,設計出讓人 年過半百,顯出疲態,甚至因為商業中心的轉移,
舒適的空間,這才是綠建築的初衷與基本。盧俊 人潮散場,盛況不再。因此,老市場的重建不僅僅
廷提到一般人也知道的建築原則「坐北朝南」, 是建築本身打掉重練,更意味著當地文化肌理的重
他強調,座向設計只要適切,室內自然較能達到 新盤整,肩負了活化、振興地方的任務。

44
says in a confident, matter-of-fact tone. However, he an old market involves not merely its physical demoli-
emphasizes that these certifications are of secondary tion and replacement, but also a reconfiguration of the
importance. More crucially, an architect has to be able cultural contexts that surround it, being essentially a
to create a comfortable space by working with the local project of local revitalization.
environment, climate, and orientation of a site—this is Inaugurated in September 2022, the new incarnation
what truly defines a green building. Lu mentions that of Tainan’s Xinhua Fruit and Vegetable Market is a case
everybody knows about the benefits of “facing south”: in point. This building, constructed at a cost of some
as long as a building is appropriately placed, its in- NT$600 million, is co-designed by Taiwanese architect
ternal climate will be agreeable, and there will be no Li Li-ju and MVRDV, the Dutch firm that created the
need to spend colossal amounts on
energy- efficient glazing or top-of-
the-range air conditioners.
But Lu also points out that de-
signers of market buildings have to
pay particular attention to ventila-
tion, and to take special account of
Taiwan’s characteristically hot and
humid weather. As fresh produce
should not be exposed to direct
sunlight, daylighting is a key issue
for designers. Lu explains that the
north-facing side is the preferred
location for large floor-to-ceiling
windows because the light that
comes in from the north tends to be
softer. However, Taiwan’s frequent 除了加強排油、排煙,盧俊廷亦針對每個攤鋪重新設計,在視覺上煥然一新。
afternoon showers also make it In addition to enhancing the ventilation at his markets, Lu Chun-ting redesigns the space
of every stall. The whole looks refreshing.
necessary to install window awn-
ings. As for the south-facing side,
horizontal overhangs can be used, although too much Markthal in Rotterdam. We visit the new market and
shading will produce unwanted gloom inside. The east- the former site with Lee Fanglin, general manager at
and west-facing sides are not usually considered for the Tainan Agricultural Products Marketing Company.
windows. Roofed with sheet metal, the old market was like an
Shaping local futures oven in the summer. All efforts to reduce temperatures,
A market owes its existence to a number of factors, such as installing electric fans and sprinkling water,
such as location, logistics, and population density. But were futile. By contrast, at the new site, we’re struck
structures that were built on the cheap half a century by an exceptionally high green roof with a broad span,
ago are showing their age, and are losing out to newly whose undulating shape echoes the hilly local land-
emerging commercial districts. The reconstruction of scape. The design helps cool the place. Gentle breezes

以波浪綠屋頂引起矚目的新化果菜市場,將是台南新興的觀光景點。
Tainan’s Xinhua Fruit and Vegetable Market features an undulating green roof. It is hoped that the
edifice will become a new tourist attraction.

45
台南市農產運銷公司總經理李芳林對新
建的新化果菜市場充滿期許。
Lee Fanglin, general manager at the Tainan
Agricultural Products Marketing Company,
is enthusiastic about the future of the new
Xinhua Fruit and Vegetable Market.

相差了大約6°C。」親自拿溫度
計量過的李芳林如此說。
以水果批發為主的新化果菜
市場前身正是新化牛墟。因為
新化座落在山地與平原之交,
從清代開始就是物資交換的重
要交通樞紐,發展至今,新化
故此,一流的建築師會將市場所在之地的文 果菜市場已是南台灣最重要的水果集散地。舊市
化、地景脈絡積極納入設計之中。正好比重建中 場的空間不足、設施老舊等問題,是促使市場遷
的南門市場,絕不僅僅是市場,與騎樓串聯的室 址的主要理由,然而當李芳林帶領著我們上到綠
外廣場,與捷運串聯的地下樓層,與外在人流呼 影連綿的新市場頂樓,諳熟市場前世今生的他,
應的戶外用餐區,都可感受到建築師希望將市場 談到未來關於批發與觀光旅遊功能結合的種種規
輻射向民眾生活的強烈意圖。 劃,神情語氣逸興湍飛。話鋒一轉,他手指向鄰
目前正在改造中的龍潭市場也是。盧俊廷特別 近的虎頭埤風景區、山上花園水道博物館、左鎮
選用當地具代表性的竹編工藝,以桂竹編織成入 化石園區等遊憩景點的方位,更表示,期望市場
口的棚架與飛騰在空中的祥龍竹構,作為動線引 強大的運銷、餐飲、購物機能,能為這幾處台南
導之用;拾級來到市場的二樓,這裡的休憩空間 的衛星城鎮建立起觀光的軸帶,直到此刻,我們
直接以「龍潭印象」來命名,包含了景觀茶亭、 才真正理解了,原來對建築師乃至經營者而言,
親子遊憩區等設施,貫串的竹構深入結合龍潭的 一座市場還必須放在地方發展的完整輿圖上,更
丘陵稜線與明潭的水文意象,讓人走一遭市場, 能見其意義。
就能為龍潭留下初步的印象。 許多人就如同飲食作家韓良憶在〈遊走在世界
今(2022)年9月啟動的台南新化果菜市場更 的市場裡〉所寫的:「我每到異鄉,抵達後的第一
是如此。這座建築斥資約新台幣6億元,由同樣操 件事,便是向當地人打聽市場在何處。」比起地
刀鹿特丹市集廣場的荷蘭建築師事務所MVRDV 標型景點、享譽盛名的博物館與美術館,遊客之
與台灣建築師李麗如共同設計。我們隨著台南市 所以樂於上市場,除了挖寶、採購的樂趣,更是因
農產運銷公司總經理李芳林造訪新化市場的新、 著,從市場出發,是從Outsider到Insider的身分的
舊址,鐵皮屋頂的舊市場,在溽熱的夏季裡,儘 切換。人們上市場,就是從外來的觀光客轉換到
管風扇、灑水等方式多管齊下,散熱效果依舊有 當地人的生活,不僅從物產中品嚐四季的變化,也
限,來到新場,大挑高、大跨距的波浪綠屋頂, 一同參與了地方發展的演進歷程。由此來看,觀光
呼應周遭的丘陵景觀之餘,更發揮了降溫效果, 客如此,在地人更是,蛻變後的台灣市場,豈不更
站在半露天的市場,徐徐清風吹來,「兩個地方 值得我們特別走上一遭。 l

46
waft across the semi-open space outside the market. “The full meaning only when it is examined in the context of
difference between the two sites is about 6°C,” says Lee, local development.
who has visited both places with a thermometer. Food writer Han Liangyi’s words resonate with
Inadequate space and outdated facilities were among many of us: “Whenever I travel to an unfamiliar place,
the reasons for the relocation. Standing in the midst of the first thing I do upon arrival is to ask locals where
luxuriant greenery on the roof of the new edifice, Lee the markets are.” Compared with celebrated landmarks
tells us about the market’s past and present. Talking of or prestigious museums and galleries, local markets
plans to combine the operation of the mainly whole- fascinate tourists because, apart from the joys of shop-
sale market with local tourism, he is full of excitement. ping and discovering treasures, we get to experience an
Pointing toward the nearby Hutoupi Scenic Area, the insider’s perspective. In a market, visitors gain an in-
Waterworks Museum, and the Zuojhen Fossil Park, he sight into local seasonal changes by learning about lo-
expresses the hope that the market’s strong capacities cal produce; they also participate in the local economy.
for logistics, food services, and shopping will help For tourists and locals alike, the newly transformed
connect these various places in Tainan and create a markets in Taiwan are well worth a visit. l
cluster of tourist spots. And so we realize that for both (Lynn Su/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
architects and business operators, a market reveals its tr. by Brandon Yen)

點亮一座城鎮,就從市場設計開始。
Revitalizing a town begins with redesigning its old markets.

47
百年師大——台灣教育開路先鋒

人車熙來攘往,台北市和平東路精華鬧區上,氣勢宏偉的近代哥德式紅樓建築,以
及外型典雅的山形斜屋頂禮堂,坐落於現代水泥叢林中,傳承百年的記憶。從日治時
期、二戰結束到解嚴,再至今日國際化的台灣社會,近一世紀以來,它是台灣教育開
路先鋒,也是孕育國家英才的搖籃——國立臺灣師範大學。

很難想像近百年前,和平東路前竟是一望無際的稻田,蛙鳴聲及課堂鐘聲伴隨著學
生學習。台師大前身、1922年創立的「臺灣總督府臺北高等學校」就坐落於此,時移
境遷,校園物換星移,文薈廳、禮堂、行政大樓、普字樓等四座日治時期建築依舊佇
立,2003年被指定為市定古蹟,百年前學生上課與生活的空間,如今繼續被台師大學
生使用著,象徵著學校精神的傳承與延續。

台師大現今已是一所培育多元人才的綜合大學,從最早的文、理、教育三學院,到
管理、科技與工程、藝術、音樂、運動與休閒、國際與社會科學等學院,發展至今有
九個學院、62個系所,兼顧人文、科技、在地、國際的各領域發展,「師大人」也從
講臺上授課的教師,轉而在各行各業裡發光發熱,走出屬於自己的一條道路。

近年來,臺灣高等教育面臨國際競爭的高度挑戰,然而「師大人」繳出了一張漂
亮成績單,人才培養從過去學習單一專業領域,轉變至今強調「跨領域」、「國際
化」、「產業連結」,教育現場的教學方式也跟著與時俱進。正值政府推動2030國家
雙語政策之際,校園擁有超過11%比率的國際學生,台師大更獲得教育部選定為「雙語
標竿大學」,扮演臺灣高教國際化的先驅。台師大在國內高等教育的評比中,更連續
五年高居人文社會科學大學的第一名。

「青春器宇軒昂,展大度雍容;迎向國際創新局,深耕吾土致大公。」2021年版出
爐的校歌,曲調依舊,新歌詞透露著這所百年大學的生日願望,宣示邁向世界頂大的
宏願。
100 Years of NTNU
—Leading the Way in Education

Today National Taiwan Normal University (NTNU) is a general university,


educating students in a wide range of fields. From its original three colleges of Liberal
Arts, Science, and Education, it has gone on to open colleges of Management; Science,
Technology and Engineering; Arts; Music; Sports and Recreation; and International
Studies and Social Sciences, with nine colleges and 62 departments in all. Tuned in
to national and international developments in both the humanities and the sciences,
NTNU alumni take what they have learned in the classroom to forge their own paths,
achieving brilliant successes in all walks of life.
In recent years institutions of higher education in Taiwan have faced the daunting
challenges of meeting the needs of industry and of competing internationally, but
NTNU has shown outstanding performance. It has shifted its teaching emphasis from
merely “imparting knowledge” to also fostering links with industry, multidisciplinary
integration, and internationalization, as well as raising its game in terms of teaching
and learning methodology. In line with the government’s 2030 national bilingual
policy, international students now comprise 11% of the student body, making NTNU
the most international campus in Taiwan. NTNU is setting the standard for bilingual
education on the island.
好讀

台灣特有鳥類手繪圖鑑 ◎ 蔡錦文

◼ 它集結了所有在台灣「僅此一家,別無分號」的鳥種。
◼ 生物圖鑑是科學與藝術的綜合體,它是科學工具、科普書、也
是藝術品。
◼ 生物圖鑑必須力求正確,以符合科學的求是精神。
是一趟巡覽好文的旅程,
更是一回賞讀美篇的心靈停駐……
也是一段遍閱佳構的遨遊,

台灣特有鳥類的保育 來 設 計 符合人 類 福 祉 及 護 佑 眾 生
島 嶼 不但 啟 發 我 們 對 於 生 命 源 的都市公園、自然保護 區等 等,但
頭 的 追 尋,也 點 燃 探 尋 物 種 演 化 我 們 真 的 善 待了棲 息 於 島 上 的 物
的狂 熱,天擇 說、演化論乃至 近代 種嗎?
許多描繪生命藍圖的學說理論都 自17 世 紀 歐 洲 人 航 海 盛 行 後,
與島嶼 相關,在生物學家眼中,島 因 為 人 為 干 擾( 戰 爭、耕 作、伐
嶼可說 是一 個精美而有趣的實驗 木、狩 獵、引 入 外 來 種)而 造 成 的
場。 滅 絕 事 件 中,高 達 9 0 %皆 發 生 在
我們從島嶼生態學引發出意喻 島 嶼,人 類 行 為 加 速 了 島 嶼 物 種
式 的 棲 地 島 嶼,像 是 高 山 上 的 山 滅絕速率(A t k i n s o n,1989),就
頭、沙漠中的綠 洲、陸 地中的水體 鳥 類 而 言,島 嶼 鳥 類 的 滅 絕 速 率
都 是,並 以 資 源 永 續 利 用 的 觀 念 更是大陸的40倍(J o h n s o n a n d
黑長尾雉(帝雉、海雉、烏雉)

保育狀況 保育類II

IUCN-NT亟須保護的瀕危動物。屬國內保育類野生動物第二級,
珍貴稀有保育類野生動物。

書名: 台灣特有鳥類手繪圖鑑
作者: 蔡錦文
S t a t t e r s f i e l d,19 9 0),上個 世 (BirdLife International,2017) 頁數:219頁 定價:850元

紀 末,全 球 已 滅 絕 的 鳥 類 中,有 統 計,棲 息 於 島 嶼 的 受 威 脅 鳥 類 出版時間:2022年8月


出版: 貓頭鷹出版
9 2 %皆 為 島 嶼 鳥 類(G o r m a n, (t h r e a t e n e d s p e c i e s)數量卻

1979),許多島嶼特有物 種,如今 與 大 陸 不 相 上下( 島 嶼 5 4 6 種,

我們只能從化石、文獻或是記憶裡 46.9% vs. 大陸617種,53.1%),

去拼湊! 其 中 又 以 孤 懸 汪 洋 中,距 離 大 陸 的 生存 脅 迫;其 中14 種(特 有 種 5


遙 遠 的 海 洋 島 嶼 更 為 嚴 峻,因 為 種,特 有 亞 種 9 種)在 二份名 錄 中

14種台灣特有鳥類面臨 承載了不成比例的受威脅鳥類(海 均有列名,顯示在當今環境中這些


存亡關鍵時刻 洋 島 嶼 3 91種 v s . 大 陸 島 嶼15 5 特 有 鳥 類 的 存 亡 已 是 關 鍵 時 刻,
不 同 於 大 陸( 指 大 面 積 陸 塊 ) 種)。 再無即時而有效的挽救措施就會
物種,島嶼物種 較為脆 弱,對外來 台灣8 4種特有鳥類中有52種被 滅 亡,例 如 因 為天 然 災害(驟 雨、
干 擾 的 反 應 較 為 明 顯 而 劇 烈,特 列 入保 育 類 野 生 動 物 名 錄 或 受 威 野火)、誤 食 毒 老鼠、受 鳥 網或 捕
別 是 島 嶼 鳥 類,雖 然 只 占 全 世 界 脅 鳥 類 紅 皮 書 名 錄,換 句 話 說 這 獸 鋏 傷 害 而 瀕 臨 滅 絕 的 草 鴞、因
鳥 種 數1 0 %,然 而 根 據 國 際 鳥 盟 52 種特 有鳥 類 正面 臨 著 輕 重不一 為引 入種 雜 交 導 致 族 群 基 因 遭 受

53
污染而瀕危的烏頭翁、台灣畫眉、

環頸雉等。

以上列舉4種特有鳥類主要分

布 於 低 海 拔,受 人 為 干 擾 最 為 直

接,其 它 特 有 鳥 類 則 多 棲 息 於 中

高 海 拔 山 區 環 境,牠 們 的 生 存 壓 鳳頭蒼鷹(粉鳥鷹)
力 除 了 天 然 災 害( 颱 風、森 林 火

災 )外,主 要 還 是 來 自 於 全 球 暖 保育狀況 保育類II
化、土地開發所導致的棲 地消失、 屬國內保育類野生動物第二級:珍貴稀有保育類野生動物。
外來種競爭及非法捕捉等脅迫。

全球暖化,鳥類大搬家? 尤巨,不僅重 創人 類 生命財產,在 及 玉山三個氣 象 站的春夏 氣 溫平

聯 合 國 國 際 組 織「 德 國 監 測 在 考 驗 著島 嶼 物 種 適 應 環 境 的 極 均上 升攝 氏 0 . 9 2℃,4 8 種 鳥 類 平

(G e r m a n w a t c h)」發表的全球 限。那麼,台灣鳥類如何因應全球 均海拔分布上升了60公尺,然而並

氣候風險指數(G l o b a l C l i m a t e 暖化趨勢呢? 非 所 有 鳥 類 的 海 拔 分 布,全 然 都

R isk Index)報告中指出,臨海國 根 據 台 灣 大學 李 培 芬 教 授 的 研 往 更 高海 拔 移動,而是 有上 升、下

家 因 全 球 暖 化 而 遭 受 極 端 氣候 災 究團隊在19 92至 20 0 6年間,於玉 降、擴 張、不 變 等 多樣 變 化,但 整

損最為嚴重,而台灣曾被評為氣候 山 國 家 公 園 的 研 究 發 現,調 查 期 體而言,海拔分布上升的鳥種數遠

風險全球第七,這表示全球暖化之 間年均溫 上 升攝氏1. 25℃,5 種特 多 於 海 拔 分 布 下 降 的 鳥 種 數,在

下台 灣 的 異 常 氣 候 出 現 機 率 將 不 有鳥 類 平均 海 拔 分 布 提 高 了75 公 3,000公尺以上高山地區鳥類海

斷增加。 尺,平 均 海 拔 分 布 上 限 更 提 高 了 拔 分 布 上 升 趨 勢 更 是 明 顯,中 高

2 0 07 年 聯 合 國「氣候 變 遷 跨 政 115公尺。 海 拔 鳥 類 會 面 臨 較 大 的 氣候 變 遷

府小 組(I P C C)」研 究 報 告 中 早 2014 年同樣在 玉山國家公園範 衝擊。

指 出 台 灣 屬 於 氣候 變 遷 的 高 危 險 圍內,台灣大學丁宗蘇教授則結合 該 研 究 同 時 針 對 並 篩 選 出,

群。全球暖化所造成的異常氣候, 了相 距 2 2 年 的現 地 調 查 及中 華鳥 在 海 拔 分 布 有 明 顯 變 動,易 受

同 時 在 世 界 各 地 引 發 不 少 風 暴、 會4 0 年來 的鳥 類 分 布 資 料進行 分 氣候變遷衝擊之鳥種為持續

水 患、乾 旱,對 島 嶼 國 家 之 影 響 析後發現,22年來日月潭、阿里山 關 注 的 指 標 鳥 種( 如 岩 鷚、鷦

54
鷯Tr o g l o d y t e s t r o g l o d y t e s 若 氣 溫 上 升 攝 氏 6 . 4 ℃,將 有 高 雨林在 20 01至 2012 年間,已有超

t a i v a n u s)。以上2份國內的研究 達 3 0%的陸 鳥可能在 210 0 年之 過1,70 0萬公頃 的森林消失,亞 馬

調 查 均 顯 示了 平 均 氣 溫 上 升( 全 前 絕 種;上 升 2 . 8℃度 則 可能 造 成 遜 雨 林已 經 瀕 臨 生 態 危 機 的 臨 界

球暖化),台灣鳥類的海拔分布有 4 0 0至5 5 0 種 陸 鳥滅 亡,全 球 暖 化 點。

朝更高海拔移動的現象(李培芬, 使 許 多 物 種 往 高 海 拔 遷 徙,棲 地 致使 大 陸 物 種 走 向 滅 亡 的 原 因

2 0 0 8、丁宗 蘇,2 014),因 此可以 在 競 爭下 愈 發 擁 擠,將 迫 使 不 少 已 經 非 常 清 楚,就 是 人 類 活 動 造

推測,當地球溫 度愈來愈高,將造 動植物瀕臨滅絕(S e k e r c i o g l u, 成的森林破壞,科學家估計此將成

成台 灣 山 區 鳥 類 在 海 拔 分 布 上 重 2008)。 為下一 個 物 種 大 量 滅 絕 的 主 因,

新洗牌,原本分布於中低海拔的鳥 除了溫 室 效 應 所 導 致 的 全 球 近10 年 間已有 8 種 鳥 類 走 入 滅 絕

類可能往高海拔移動或是擴張,而 暖 化使 得 山 區 鳥 類 適 宜 棲 地 大 幅 (或近乎滅絕)即是最明顯的警訊

多數分布於中高海拔的特有鳥類 縮 減,另 一 個 直 接 造 成 鳥 類 棲 地 (Stuar t et al. 2018)。

則 持 續 往 更 高 海 拔 昇 遷,如 此 情 消失的原因即是伐木 和農業活動 雖然國內森林已很少有伐木

況 下 將 面 臨 棲 地 限 縮 甚 或 無 地可 所 造 成 的 森 林 破 壞,例 如 印 尼 自 作 業,但 人 為 活 動 對 島 嶼 鳥 類 生

棲之情形,鳥種間的競爭壓力也會 2 0 0 0 年 以 來 已 經 失 去了4 0 % 的 存 造 成 的 干 擾 卻 也 不 容 小 覷,就

變大,滅絕風險就提高了。 森 林 覆 蓋 率,原 因 是 需 要 木 材 產 特 有 鳥 類 來 說,外 來 種(e x o t i c

美 國 史 丹 佛 大學 學 者 以棲 地 變 品 和 種 植 新 作 物 的 土 地,如 生 質 species / alien species /

遷模型推估鳥類所能忍受的海 燃料;據 世界自然基金會(W o r l d introduced species)是另一大頭

拔 變 動 範 圍,最 糟 的 情 況 下,倘 Wildlife Fund)估計,巴西亞馬遜 痛問題。

草 鴞(東方草鴞、猴面鴞)

保育狀況 保育類I

由於棲地消失、滅鼠藥、盜獵、數量稀少等因
素,有滅絕的可能。國內野生動物保育法保育
類第一級,瀕臨絕種保育類野生動物。

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藍腹鷴(藍鷴、山雞、華雞)

保育狀況 保育類II

不普遍留鳥。由於雄鳥羽色華麗,在台灣仍面臨獵捕壓力,但更大的生存威脅來自於中、低
海拔的棲地破壞。國內保育等級屬於第二級,珍貴稀有保育類野生動物。

(Garrulax canorus)以及環頸雉 如 白 尾 八 哥( A c r i d o t h e r e s

南橘北枳,竭澤而漁 (非台灣特有亞種)等三種入侵種 j a v a n i c u s )、 家 八 哥
隨 著 交 通 運 輸 的 便 利 及各 國 貿 分別造成台灣藍鵲、台灣畫眉及台 (A c r i d o t h e r e s t r i s t i s)等椋
易之普及,無論 以何 種目的(自然 灣 特 有 亞 種 環 頸 雉 的 基 因 污 染, 鳥 科(S t u r n i d a e)鳥 類、鶲 科
或人為)而引進的外來種 鳥 類,幾 因 為 野 外已 經發 現 有 雜 交 後 代 出 (M u s c i c a p i d a e)的白腰 鵲 鴝
十 年 來 有 部 分 因 為 脫 逃 野 外、遭 現;另 一 種 同 樣 族 群 基 因 遭 受 污 (Copsychus malabaricus)、噪
惡 意 棄 養 或 宗 教 放 生,已 經 對 台 染 的 特 有 種 鳥 類 烏 頭 翁,則 肇 因 鶥科(L e i o t h r i c h i d a e)的黑喉噪
灣本土鳥類造成嚴重影響,尤其是 於宗教放生白頭翁而導致,此二種 鶥(G a r r u l a x c h i n e n s i s)等,在
台灣特有鳥類,首當其衝。 鵯 科鳥 類 在 花 蓮 與 屏 東 分 布 重 疊 食物資源、巢位 競 爭、疾病或寄生
當 一 個 外 來 種 對 本土 生物 及 環 的地區,同樣 發現有 雜交後 代(雜 蟲傳染等 方面對特有鳥 類 形成的
境 造 成 災 害 時,即 是 所 謂 的 入 侵 頭 翁 )出 現,烏 頭 翁 種 源 純 正 問 生存脅迫,都需要進行嚴密監控與
種(i n v a s i v e s p e c i e s),譬如紅 題,如今面臨考驗。 有效的防禦措施,否則一旦發生嚴
嘴藍鵲(又稱中國藍鵲U r o c i s s a 其它已在野外建立穩定族群 重危害,後果難以想像。
e r y t h r o r h y n c h a)、大 陸 畫 眉 的 外 來 種 大 抵 都 屬 強 悍 物 種, 外來種 鳥類帶來的危機 絕大部

56
對 於 特 有 物 種 的 保 育,政 府 必

黃嘴角鴞(台灣木葉鴞) 須展現出更多的決心與關注,落實

國 家 生 物 多 樣 性 相 關 保 育 政 策,

推 廣 保 育 觀 念。雖 然 國 內 野 生 動
保育狀況 保育類II
物保育法已施行多年,執行成效普
普遍留鳥,整體族群並無明顯受威脅。保育類野生動物名錄屬第二
級,珍貴稀有保育類野生動物。 遍 受 到 肯 定,卻 也 只 能 行 事 後 裁

罰及遏阻警惕作用。保育工作除了

要保護瀕危物種避免滅亡,還得復

育物種達最小族群量,且不單單著

分 導 因 於 人 為 所 致,由 於 寵 物 鳥 鴒(M o t a c i l l a s p p .)、黑 臉 鵐 墨於單一物種,其他相關要素如生

市 場 需 求,商 人不 斷 自 國 外 進 口 (Emberiza spodocephala)、白 物多樣 性、棲 地多樣 性、永 續利用

鸚鵡、雀鳥等 新奇鳥 類,有些更 是 腹鶇(Turdus pallidus)、紅尾鶲 乃至社會 經 濟與 法律方面的要求

IUCN Red List中的瀕危物種,然 (Muscicapa ferruginea)等。 等,都需要更細緻的規劃。

多 數 民 眾 並不 認 識 這 些 進 口 鳥 種 許多工程計畫包括山坡地、觀光 台灣的特有物種比率很高,不
來 歷,銀貨兩訖後,得 利的商家不 用地、工 業 用地 開 發,很少 將生 態 論在研究、教育、保育或利用上,
可能還有售後服務,一旦發生棄養 因 素 考 慮 在 內,更 遑 論 其 對 野 生 都因其獨特性而有很高的價值,
或 逸 鳥,傷 的 是 物 種 生 命 以 及 我 動物之影響;即使生態工法行之有 特有鳥類更是其中一群多麼珍貴
們的環境。 年,然我們在面對大自然時仍多以 且美麗的動物,是台灣生物多樣
筆 者 曾 多 次 觀 察 各 處 鳥 店, 「人 治」觀 念 想當然 爾 地 進行,例 織 錦中色 彩最 斑 斕 奪目的一 部
有 時 候 連 季 節 性 野 鳥( 候 鳥 )也 如 將淺 山 野 溪 改 造 成 鋼 筋 混 凝 土 分,自上次冰河期結束至少已經
成 了待 價 而 沽 的 籠 中 物,例 如 藍 人 工 溪、山 坡 地 開 發 改 植 經 濟 作 在這塊土 地生存了18 , 0 0 0 年之
磯鶇(M o n t i c o l a s o l i t a r i u s)、 物,非旦改 變 原有自然景 觀,遭 致 久,我們真的有幸能擁有此獨一
野鴝(C a l l i o p e c a l l i o p e)、鶺 破壞的生態卻已無法挽回。 無二的珍寶。

57
影像對話 PHOTO ESSAY

看見思維的聲音
《光華》攝影徵件

在地音樂與樂團

Readers’ Photos:
See the Sound of
Ideas—Local Music
and Musicians

點燃台灣的搖滾之火(莊坤儒)
Igniting Taiwanese Rock Music (Kent Chuang)

來自南台灣高雄的台語龐克樂團「滅火器 Fire EX.」,


歌詞真實反映這個時代與生活,字句流露對台灣濃厚的
愛,隨著〈長途夜車〉、〈晚安台灣〉、〈島嶼天光〉
等廣為傳唱的歌曲,點燃起樂迷對台灣未來的希望。
Punk-influenced Kaohsiung band Fire EX. sings in
Taiwanese about the times we live in and their deep love
for Taiwan, writing and performing such highly popular
tracks as “Good Night! Formosa!” and “Island’s Sunrise,”
which kindle fans’ hopes for Taiwan’s future.

58
59
雷霆戰鼓(張文雄)
Thundering War Drums (Zhang Wenxiong)

正月十五日油笐火戰鼓精采表演,參觀的民眾絡繹不絕,熱鬧非凡。
The thrillingly boisterous “war drums” performance during the Lantern Festival bamboo
torch procession in Beipu, Hsinchu County, draws huge crowds.

60
電音尬古謠(林旻萱)
Electronica and Paiwan Melodies (Lin Min-hsuan)

阿爆以母語反覆唱著「我們說的話自然而然/說起來是多麼美」,相信聽者
能心領神會她所吟唱出的生命大愛。
In her song “Kinakaian” (“Mother Tongue”), Abao sings “The language we speak
flows naturally / How beautiful it sounds.” Listeners will surely feel the joie de
vivre she expresses in the song.

61
月光海音樂會(莊坤儒)
Moonlight Sea Concerts (Kent Chuang)

台灣一年四季都有音樂節,森林、海岸、都市與古城,都可以是表演的舞台。獨特的自
然與人文環境,不僅成為表演的一部分,也是台灣音樂走向世界最好的品牌形象。
Taiwan has music festivals all year round, and forests, beaches, cities and historic
districts can all play host to performance stages. Unique natural and cultural settings are
not only part of the show, they are also an excellent way to brand Taiwan’s music for an
international audience.

62
可愛的小鼓手(黃有助)
Adorable Little Drummers (Huang Youzhu)

一年一度的管樂踩街活動,吸引全國各地的管樂團參與,其中幼兒園的小朋友管樂團
更是吸晴,贏得兩旁無數觀眾的掌聲。
The annual parade of marching bands attracts bands from around the country to take part.
Among them, the bands composed of preschoolers attract the greatest attention, earning
applause from the countless onlookers who line the streets.

63
排灣族口鼻笛(林格立)
The Paiwan Nose Flute (Jimmy Lin)

曾面臨失傳的危機,如今培育了口鼻笛的傳承藝師,讓原民悠遠的傳說與故事,有了
眾口傳唱的可能。演奏者(由左至右)為: 藝師卓惠萍、伊誕.巴瓦瓦隆、余衛民。
The art of playing the nose flute was nearly lost, but now a number of nose flute educators
have been trained, to keep indigenous legends and stories alive through music.

太魯閣族木琴表演(王啟文)
Truku Xylophone Performance (Wang Qiwen)

花蓮萬榮鄉太魯閣族,每年在十月都會舉辦感恩祭儀(Mgay Bari)活動,凝聚部落族
群情感及感念祖靈的眷顧舉辦祭儀,小朋友們組成的百人木琴演奏,充份展現太魯閣
族感恩之情。
The Truku indigenous people of Wanrong Township in Hualien County hold an annual
thanksgiving ceremony, Mgay Bari, every October. It builds community solidarity and
expresses thanks to the spirits of the ancestors for their benevolence. The mass
xylophone performance put on by children amply demonstrates the Truku people’s
feelings of gratitude.

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達悟族甩髮歌舞(陳秀美)
The Tao Hair Dance (Chen Xiumei)

台東縣蘭嶼島上居住達悟族人,婦女們穿著傳統服飾,唱著 Valachingi ya Ganam 古老歌,以摹擬海浪律


動,雙手交叉於胸前,雙腳屈膝彎腰,將長髮向前拋出,頭髮稍觸地面即挺身,抬頭把長髮向上往後甩,
甩出力量與律動展現族人團結精神。
The Tao indigenous people live on Lanyu (Orchid Island) in Taitung County. Tao women dress in traditional attire
to perform the hair dance, during which they sing the old song “Valachingi ya Ganam.” With their hands crossed
in front of their chests and their knees bent, in movements that imitate the rhythm of ocean waves the dancers
swing their long hair forward to touch the ground, then quickly straighten up to throw their hair upward and
backward. The strength and rhythm of the performance evokes the people’s spirit of unity.

65
在家鄉的土地上搖滾(莊坤儒)
Rocking Their Hometown (Kent Chuang)

台青蕉樂團成員在旗山種下青春,期望能為家鄉創造一些改變。
The members of Youth Banana are contributing their youth to Qishan, hoping to bring
some change to their hometown.

66
問題總部,於 The Wall(楊媜媞)
It’s Your Fault at The Wall (Yang Zhengti)

本土樂團「問題總部」的主唱 Hana,正隨著節奏起舞著。
Hana, lead singer of indie band It’s Your Fault, dances to the rhythm of the
group’s music during a gig at the Taipei live house venue The Wall.

67
全球視野 GLOBAL OUTLOOK

天 文 台 灣 隊
Behind-the-Scenes Heroes
of Black Hole Imaging
—Taiwan’s Astronomy Team

文•謝宜婷 圖•陳明堂提供 版面設計•馬英凱

格陵蘭望遠鏡由台灣
中研院主導建造與運
轉,是北極圈內首座
次毫米微波望遠鏡。
Taiwan’s Academia
Sinica has led the way
in the construction
and operation of the
Greenland Telescope. It
is the first submillimeter
wavelength telescope
inside the Artic Circle.

68
黑洞,使全球不同政治立場與信仰
的國家,看往相同方向。

B lack holes cause all the world’s na-


tions, regardless of political system
or religion, to look in the same direction.

科學家愛因斯坦推測,在宇宙中有一個「質 Albert Einstein hypothesized that in the universe


量極大、體積極小,形成強大引力」的存在, there must exist objects of enormous mass, extremely
small size, and great gravitational power. His ideas
全球科學家為了解開這道謎題,形成各門理論
i nspired scient ists of various sc hools of t hought
學派,推測宇宙中超強引力的模樣。
around the world to theorize about what an object
宇宙中任何物質,甚至連光 線,都 無法逃
with super- strong gravity would be like.
脫黑洞的引力。黑洞最外圍稱為「事件視界 Nothing in the universe, not even light, can es-
(Event Horizon)」,是引力對物質產生影響 cape the gravitational pull of such a “black hole.” The
的極限範圍。美國科學家夏普多勒曼(Sheperd outer most limit of a black hole is known as the “event
Doeleman)號召全球科學家成立「事件視界望遠 horizon,” which marks the boundary of no escape.
鏡(EHT)團隊」,透過望遠鏡觀測黑洞,解 Begin ning in 2009, American scientist Sheperd Doele-
man brought together colleagues from around the
析影像。隨著科技進步,直到2017年,天文科
world in the Event Horizon Telescope (EHT) collabo-
學家利用望遠鏡觀測M87星系,2019年解析出
ration, to use radio telescopes to observe black holes
中心的黑洞影像,才證實了愛因斯坦的看法。 in hopes of getting clearer images of them. Thanks
to scientific advancements, in 2017 astronomers were
事件視界望遠鏡
able to use this global array of telescopes to observe
2019年中研院與布魯塞爾、聖地牙哥、上 the Messier 87 (M87) galaxy, and from the data they
海、東京和華盛頓特區等地同步舉行記者會, captured they created an image of the black hole at
發布人類史上第一張黑洞觀測照片。過去,科 the galaxy’s center. Published in 2019, this first ever
image of a black hole is highly compatible with Ein-
學家已經模擬過許多黑洞影像,直到「事件視
stein’s ideas.
界望遠鏡」透過微波觀測,才真正看見5,500萬
The Event Horizon Telescope
光年外M87星系中的黑洞。
In 2019, simultaneous press conferences were held
全球共有11座「事件視界望遠鏡」,透過微 at the Academia Sinica in Taipei and in Brussels, San
波觀測M87星系與銀河系中心的黑洞。分布全 Diego, Shanghai, Tokyo, and Washington DC, to re-
球各地的望遠鏡,形成一個直徑與地球同樣大 lease the first image of a black hole in human history.

69
格陵蘭望遠鏡(GLT)
台灣參與建造、運轉
Taiwan took part in construction
and now participates in operating

諾艾瑪陣列
基特峰望遠鏡
馬克斯威次毫米波望遠鏡
(JCMT)
台灣參與運轉 赫茲望遠鏡 伊朗姆30米望遠鏡
Taiwan participates in operating
大型毫米波望遠鏡
次毫米波陣列望遠鏡
(SMA)
台灣參與建造、運轉 阿塔卡瑪大型毫米及次毫米
Taiwan took part in 波陣列計畫(ALMA)
construction and now 阿塔卡瑪探路者實驗 台灣參與建造
participates in operating
Taiwan took part in construction

南極望遠鏡

的鏡片,提升成像解析度。這項全球工程中, 中研院天文所夏威夷 運 轉 副 所 長 陳明堂回


台灣團隊參與製造、運轉四座望遠鏡,包含在 憶,團隊後來接洽了國家中山科學研究院航空
夏威夷的次毫米波陣列望遠鏡(SMA)和馬克 研究所(簡稱中科院航空所)及漢翔航空工
斯威次毫米波望遠鏡(JCMT)、智利的阿塔卡 業,開啟雙方合作的契機。中科院製作碳纖維
瑪大型毫米及次毫米波陣列計畫(ALMA), 的流程分工專業,而且以航空製程的高規格製
以及位於北極的格陵蘭望遠鏡(GLT)。 作,除了常使用在航空與國防武器,也用於運
天文觀測環境必須乾燥、水氣少,因此會建 動休閒器材,如:高爾夫球桿、網球拍、羽球
立在高山上。夏威夷的SMA是由中研院與美國 拍,以及遊艇、汽車。中科院航空所的結構與
史密松天文台合作,建造於當地4,000公尺上 材料系統組副研究員陳育德表示:「中科院研
的高山毛納基亞。這次機會是中研院天文及天 發碳纖維,會將技術轉移給廠商,如上游的台
文物理研究所(簡稱中研院天文所)正式成立 塑,其產量是全球第四。」
前,向國際證明台灣也具備宇宙觀測能力的重 陳明堂回憶,台灣執行夏威夷SMA計畫時,
要時刻。SMA共有八座,台灣負責建造兩座。 原本使用他國製作的碳纖維管,因無法承受高
當中研院四處尋找製作支撐碟面的碳纖維複合 山乾燥的氣候而產生裂隙,後來全部改為台灣
材料,卻在德國廠商那獲得建議,台灣本身就 製的碳纖維管,從此可見台灣材料製造的實
有技術嫻熟的相關廠商。 力。

70
事件視界望遠鏡(EHT)分布圖,有台
灣圖示者是由台灣參與建造、運轉。
The locations of the elements of the
Event Horizon Telescope. Those marked
with a Taiwan icon are telescopes
constructed and operated with Taiwanese
participation.

Eleven EHT sites a rou nd t he world used revealed that Taiwan already had companies with
millimeter-wave detectors to observe the M87* black the necessary technology.
hole, at t he center of M87, and t he Sagittarius A* Chen Ming-tang, ASIAA deputy director for Ha-
(Sgr A*) black hole, at the center of our own galaxy, waii operations, recalls that the team later contacted
the Milky Way. The radio telescopes together formed the National Chung-Shan Institute of Science and
a giant lens with a diameter the size of the Earth, Tec h nolog y (NCSIST) a nd t he Aerospace Indus-
enhancing the imaging resolution. As part of this trial Development Corporation to launch bilateral
global project, the Taiwanese team was involved co operation.
in building and operating four telescopes: the Sub- Chen recalls t hat when Taiwan worked on t he
Millimeter Array (SMA) and the James Clerk Max- SMA in Hawaii, they at first used carbon fiber tubes
well Telescope, both in Hawaii; the Atacama Large made in another country, but these developed cracks
Millimeter/submillimeter Array (ALMA) in Chile; because of the dry climate high on the mountain.
and the Greenland Telescope (GLT) in the Arctic. Thereafter they switched to only using carbon fiber
The construction of the SMA, located 4,000 meters tubes from Taiwan, which is indicative of the capabil-
above sea level on Mauna Kea in Hawaii, was a col- ities of Taiwan’s materials manufacturing industry.
laborative effort between the Academia Sinica and Taiwan’s ALMA laboratory
the US Smithsonian Astrophysical Observatory. Be- The ALMA in Chile was initiated collaboratively
gun before the formal establishment of the Academia by North America, Europe, and Japan, with Taiwan
Sin ica’s Institute of Astronomy and Astrophysics join ing in later. Taiwan was also responsible for
(ASIAA), the project was an important opportunity building the ALMA East-Asia Front End Integration
for Taiwan to prove its capabilities in the field of Center (EA-FEIC) in Taiwan, which integrated and
astro physical observation. Taiwan was responsible tested the ALMA receiver system.
for building two of the SMA’s eight antennas. When After ASRD director Eric Chi and NCSIST engi-
the Academia Sinica was searching everywhere to neer Huang Chi Den spent some time studying in
source carbon fiber composite material to support the laboratory in the US, Asia’s first “ALMA labora-
the dishes, a suggestion from a German company tory”—the EA-FEIC—was constructed in Taiwan.

夏威夷的次毫米波陣列望遠鏡(SMA)。
The Sub-Millimeter Array (SMA) on Mauna Kea, Hawaii.

71
台灣的ALMA實驗室

智利ALMA計畫主要由美國國家電波
天文台、歐洲南方天文台與日本國家自
然科學機構共同參與。台灣後來加入北
美與日本的團隊,並負責在台灣建立
「東亞接收機前段整合測試中心」,整
合並測試ALMA的接收機系統。
談起整合中心建立緣起,參與的中科
院工程師黃基典表示,日本負責的天線
完工後,因為要等待五年,才能使用北
美和歐洲的實驗室進行測試,於是與日
本合作的中研院便爭取在台灣建立同規
格的實驗室,在航空所所長齊立平與黃
基典到美國實驗室學習後建立。 中科院航空所提供精密的技術,協助中研院建造天文望遠
黃基典表示各國的次系統送到ALMA實驗室 鏡與其他儀器。(林旻萱攝)
The Aeronautical Systems Research Division of the National
後,經過測試、組裝成系統後,就會裝箱送往 Chung-Shan Institute of Science and Technology assists the
Academia Sinica with building astronomical telescopes and other
智利,再由當地人員安裝至望遠鏡內,這個步 instruments. (photo by Lin Min-hsuan)

驟看似平凡,卻需要許多精密的技術,因此全
球只有三處擁有接收機前段整合測試中心,分
別是美國、英國與台灣。 格陵蘭望遠鏡建造計畫負責人陳明堂回憶,
當國外的科學家聽到這項計畫,都認為台灣團
邁向地球最北──格陵蘭
隊「很瘋狂」,但藉著中研院與中科院合作,
台灣在建造與運作望遠鏡方面,已經累積豐 以及各國技師的協助,最終完成這項「不可能
富經驗與技術,在黑洞觀測方面,中研院天文 的任務」。
所院士賀曾樸邀請日本電波天文學家井上允加 參與的中科院工程師夏協鵬 回憶, 到格陵
入團隊,於是,2009年井上允帶著天文博士淺 蘭工作,就是一種冒險:「飛機遇到北極的
田圭一加入天文所,開始V L B I(特長基線干 強風,從窗戶往外看,差一公尺就碰到冰面
涉)觀測計畫,意指將分佈世界各地的望遠鏡 了。」更挑戰的是要在寒風中,爬上三、四層
模擬成一座巨大望遠鏡,各地望遠鏡同時偵 樓高的望遠鏡安裝設備,「高的地方更冷!工
測宇宙中某一訊號後,再將訊號傳遞到超級電 作一陣子,就要將手插進口袋取暖。」在資源
腦,分析訊號轉換成影像。 缺乏的環境中,台灣工程師總是要就地取材修
2010年美國國科會向A L M A計畫成員徵求 正設備,展現臨機應變的能力。
「北美阿爾瑪原型機」的使用構想,因為這座 格陵蘭望遠鏡的維修工作由中研院天文所的
位在沙漠地區新墨西哥州的望遠鏡已經閒置多 工程師負責,過去幾年因為疫情延後維修,但
年。中研院天文所希望獲得操作這座原型機的 望遠鏡的冷凍頭再不換,將影響觀測黑洞的品
機會,增加天文觀測的主導權,於是在淺田圭 質,於是工程師張書豪在永夜的冬天抵達格陵
一的帶領下,團隊開始尋找適合建置望遠鏡的 蘭工作。他回憶在當地工作時,大家都彼此
地點:氣候乾燥、地理位置高、能與夏威夷的 幫忙,在地的丹麥團隊會「無中生有」一些器
SMA與智利的ALMA組成陣列。最後團隊選擇 材,協助台灣團隊解決材料不足的困境。
在地球最北端──格陵蘭。 在觀測方面,中研院現在可以遠端控制,研

72
Huang relates that after various subsystems con- but if the telescope’s “cold head” were not switched
structed in other countries arrived at the ALMA lab- out the quality of the black hole observations would
oratory, they were tested and assembled into systems. have been adversely affected. This is why engineer
These were then packed up and shipped to Chile, Joshua Cha ng had to go to Green la nd i n w i nter,
where local experts installed them in the telescopes. during the “polar night.” He says that when he was
This may sound like a straightforward process, but it working there, everybody helped each other out. The
requires a great deal of precision technology, which local Danish team in particular were able to conjure
is why there are only three FEICs in the world: in the up some gear “out of nowhere” and helped the Tai-
US, the UK, and Taiwan. wan team overcome its shortage of materials.
Northward to Greenland
In 2010, the US National Science Foundation asked
participants in the ALMA project to submit ideas
for repurposing an ALMA-NA prototype antenna, 格陵蘭望遠鏡原為北美阿爾瑪原型機,台灣團隊將其從美國新
located in the desert in New Mexico, that had been 墨西哥州搬運到格陵蘭並改裝。
The Greenland Telescope was originally built as a North
idle for many years. ASIAA hoped to get the oppor- American prototype for ALMA. A team from Taiwan moved it from
tunity to operate this radio telescope to enhance its New Mexico in the US and installed it in Greenland.

leadership in astronomical observation. To this end,


Kei ichi Asada, an associate research fellow at the
Academia Sinica, led a team to begin searching for a
suitable location for this telescope: a place with a dry
climate at a high latitude, where the antenna could
form an array with the SMA in Hawaii and the ALMA
in Chile. Eventually the team chose the northernmost
land on earth: Greenland.
Chen Ming-tang, who is in charge of the Greenland
Telescope Project, recalls that when foreign scientists
heard about this plan, they thought the Taiwan team
were “crazy.” But as a result of cooperation between
the Academia Sinica and the NCSIST, as well as as-
sistance from technicians from a variety of countries,
they ultimately completed this “mission impossible.”
NCSIST engineer Hsia Chieh-peng, who took part
in the project, recalls that just going to Greenland to
work was an adventure. He had to climb up on the
telescope, which is three to four stories high, to in-
stall equipment. “After working for a while, you had
to put your hands in your pockets to warm them up.”
In an environment where resources were not easily
accessible, the Taiwanese engineers constantly had
to make use of locally avialable materials to adjust or
repair the equipment, demonstrating their skills at
improvisation.
Engineers from the ASIAA have been responsible
for maintenance work on the Greenland Telescope.
Over the past couple of years maintenance work had
been postponed because of the Covid-19 pandemic,

73
中研院天文所副研究
員淺田圭一(右)、
支援科學家黃智威博
士(左)遠端操作格
陵蘭望遠鏡。(林旻
萱攝)
Keiichi Asada (right)
and Chih-wei Locutus
Huang (left) of the
ASIAA remotely
operating the Greenland
Telescope. (photo by
Lin Min-hsuan)

究技師黃祤杰說明,每年最佳觀測時間是四 中,填補了重要的一塊。
月,在全球聯合觀測前,團隊會先事前演練, 而台灣也在這些計畫中不斷展現天文領域的
確保過程順利。兩地的團隊也可輪班工作,直 能力。航空所所長齊立平分享,中研院交給中
到20天的聯合觀測結束。 科院製作的案子,在國際上都是相當創新的計
畫,團隊常常要自行摸索寫出作業程序,最
下一張黑洞畫面
後交出的成果也常獲得國際肯定,並邀請台
淺田圭一表示,團隊最近在處理2018年蒐集 灣團隊協助。像是在ALMA計畫後期,歐洲的
到的數據,也就是格陵蘭望遠鏡加入後的成 ALMA前端系統整合中心工作進度落後,於是
果。先前兩張黑洞照片:M87星系與人馬座A 請台灣協助,中科院即另開一條生產線,支援
星,影像較為模糊,但是,格陵蘭望遠鏡加入 歐洲完成二成產量。
觀測後,解析度將大幅提升,人類將看見更清 工程師黃基典也分享,過去台灣團隊需要向
楚的黑洞。 美國學習技術,但是後來在開發ALMA的第一
「人馬座A星花了我們很多時間,所以現在 頻段接收機時(用來觀測行星形成),是由中
才在處理2018年觀測到M87的資料。」支援科 研院與中科院自行研發製造。兩年前接收機送
學家黃智威提起這段奮鬥的過程,他指著淺田 到智利安裝後,美國科學家看了運轉報告,向
圭一笑說:「人馬座A星變化很快,難搞到他 台灣說:「你們畢業了!」台灣的天文研發製
說再也不想碰了。」而一旁的淺田圭一也笑著 造能力,已經是國際級水準。
回應:「Nightmare(夢魘)!」 天文觀測的團隊,就像是聯合國。台灣過去
陳明堂在他的著作《黑洞捕 手》最 終章提 20年來,逐漸找到自己的位置,也建立與各國
到:黑洞在當下或許看不到任何用處,但是它 合作的模式。無論在夏威夷的高山、智利的高
的存在再次驗證愛因斯坦的廣義相對論,在宇 原或格陵蘭的冰原,大家的目標都相同,不是
宙的極端狀況下依然正確。在人類知識的拼圖 競爭,而是攜手解開宇宙之謎。 l

74
史上第二張黑洞照片:銀河系中心黑洞人馬座A星。(中研院天文及天文物理研究所提供)
The second ever image of a black hole: Sgr A*, at the center of the Milky Way galaxy.
(courtesy of ASIAA)

The next image of a black hole in the late stages of the ALMA project, work fell behind
Keiichi Asada says that some data collected in 2018 schedule at the European FEIC, so they asked Taiwan
that the team has recently been processing was a prod- to help out. The NCSIST immediately opened another
uct of the Greenland Telescope. The two images pre- production line to support Europe, and completed 20%
viously made public of the M87* and the Sgr A* black of its production needs.
holes were somewhat fuzzy, but after adding in the Engineer Huang Chi Den notes that in the past, spe-
data from the Greenland Telescope the resolution will cialists from Taiwan had to learn technology from the
be greatly enhanced and we will be able to see these US. But when Taiwan later developed the Band-1 receiver
black holes much more clearly. cartridge (which is used to detect planet formation) for
“We’ve spent a lot of time on the Sgr A* black hole, ALMA, the Academia Sinica and the NCSIST did all
so it is only now that we are getting around to process- their own R&D and manufacturing. When the receiver
ing the M87* data collected in 2018,” says support sci- cartridges were delivered to Chile and installed two
entist Chih-wei Locutus Huang. Pointing at Asada, he years ago, an American scientist who saw the operations
says: “The Sgr A* black hole changes very quickly. It’s report declared to the Taiwan team: “You have gradu-
so difficult to get a handle on that he says he doesn’t ated!”—meaning that Taiwan’s astronomical R&D and
want to have anything to do with it ever again.” Asada manufacturing capabilities have reached inter national
responds with a laugh: “It’s a nightmare!” standards.
Through these projects, Taiwan has continually been Astronomical observation teams are like a little
able to demonstrate its capabilities in the field of astron- United Nations. Over the past 20 years, Taiwan has found
omy. ASRD director Eric Chi says that the projects that its own place and has built collaborative models with
the Academia Sinica has entrusted to the NCSIST have numerous nations. Whether on a mountaintop in Hawaii,
been quite innovative even at the international level. a plateau in Chile, or an ice field in Greenland, everyone
The team often had to work out operating procedures has the same objective: not to compete, but to work to-
themselves, yet ultimately the final product frequently gether to unravel the mysteries of the universe. l
won praise from countries around the world, who also (Tina Xie/photos courtesy of Chen Ming-tang/
invited the Taiwanese team to assist them. For example, tr. by Phil Newell)

75
全球視野 GLOBAL OUTLOOK

獵風者奔太空
台 灣 自 製 實 力 第 二 發
Triton Set to Soar:
Taiwan to Launch Second Homegrown Satellite

「獵風者」將成為國人自製的第二顆衛星。(國家太空中心提供)
Triton will be Taiwan’s second domestically produced satellite.
(courtesy of the National Space Organization)

76
獵風者小檔案:
Triton/Formosat-7R fact file:

酬載:全球導航衛星系統反射訊號接收儀 (GNSS-R)
重量:約 250 公斤
尺寸:1公尺 x 1.2公尺 x 1.25公尺 (太陽能板展開後長3.5公尺)
軌道高度:550~650 公里;傾角 97.66°
任務壽命:5 年
搭乘火箭:Vega-C

Payload: Global Navigation Satellite System–Reflectometry (GNSS-R)


Weight: approx. 250 kg
Dimensions: 1 m x 1.2 m x 1.25 m (3.5 m with solar panel extended)
Orbital altitude: 550–650 km
Inclination: 97.66°
Mission duration: 5 years
Launch vehicle: Vega-C

文•鄧慧純 圖•林旻萱 版面設計•馬英凱

「飛向宇宙,浩瀚無垠!」不只是《玩具總動員》
裡巴斯光年的口頭禪,更是藍色星球裡許多國家的寄
望。對於未知的好奇,對於無垠的探索,全人類用失
敗堆疊起希望,用合作取代競爭,人類離太空一步一
步近了。

M ost of us recognize “To infinity and beyond!” as


Buzz Light year ’s catchphrase in the movie Toy
Story, but it also describes an ambition shared by many
nations on our blue planet. With vast realms to explore
and curious to learn new things, humanity has learned
from past mistakes and now prefers cooperation to com-
petition to further its incremental march into space.

77
林辰宗指出,獵風者若能再次順利運行,那代表台灣對衛星的理解又更進了一步。
Triton project head Lin Chen-tsung says that a successful Triton mission will demonstrate Taiwan’s
growing grasp of satellite technology.

前進太空的目標,台灣已走了30年,從像嬰 辰宗說:「獵風者上搭載了太空中心自行研發
兒般的匍伏前進,到現在可以自製衛星,奇蹟 的全球導航衛星系統反射訊號接收儀(G l o b a l
從來不是彈指就發生,台灣在政治外交腹背受 Navigation Satellite System-Reflectometry,
敵的情況下,一步一腳印地完成了「福爾摩沙 GNSS-R),在低地球軌道上蒐集由地表反射的
飛向太空」的奇蹟。 全球衛星導航系統訊號。能透過反射訊號,回
推海面的平靜與否,藉此掌握風速大小、海面
原本是福爾摩沙衛星七號(簡稱福衛七號) 風、颱風強度及路徑預測等資訊。」
的第13顆衛星,因為台美計畫變更,而獨立出 同是氣象衛星的福衛七號已在2019年升空,
來,成為國人自製的第二顆衛星,有了自己的 其6顆衛星的任務是搜集南北緯50度範圍內大氣
名字,叫做「獵風者」(Triton)。 層與電離層的資料。與之不同的是,獵風者衛
星的路徑是在高緯度以經線縱切的方式繞行地
獵風者,等待發射
球,「這樣的軌道基本上有一個特性,因為地
「獵風者」的英文名字Triton,典故出自古希 球自轉,因此整顆地球都繞得到,也代表地球
臘神話,T r i t o n是希臘神話中海神波賽頓的兒 上的資料都可以收集得到。」林辰宗說明。
子,如他父親一般也帶著三叉戟,此外還有一 而聊到獵風者衛星的獨特性,在英國領先投
個附屬物海螺,每當他出巡時,便會吹起海螺 入G P S反射訊號反演風速的研究後,台灣的獵
揚起風浪。這個控制風浪的能力,便是獵風者 風者是第四顆應用此科學酬載作為主要任務的
衛星英文名稱的由來。 衛星。氣象數值預報需匯集各種觀測資料,進
從名字就可以窺知獵風者的功能任務,它是 行預測,但廣大遼闊的海洋沒有氣象站,缺乏
追蹤量測海風的衛星。獵風者計畫主持人林 現地觀測資料,海面上的資訊就仰賴氣象衛星

78
Taiwan itself has been reaching for the stars for
the last 30 years, gradually advancing from our
first tentative steps to our present-day satellite
manu facturing capability. We didn’t achieve this
progress with a simple snap of the fingers. Faced
with political and diplomatic pressure from all
sides, we took careful, measured strides towards
placing our own satellites into orbit.

In 2021, changes to the Formosat-7 joint Taiwan–


US space program resulted in Taiwan turning what
獵風者是觀測「風場」的衛星,蒐集經過海面反射GNSS全球
was originally slated to be the program’s 13th satel- 導航衛星訊號,回推海面的狀況,藉此掌握風速大小、海面
lite into an independent project. The satellite, only 風、颱風強度及路徑預測等資訊。(國家太空中心提供)
Triton’s GNSS instrument is designed to measure wind fields by
the second that Taiwan has designed and manu- collecting reflections from the ocean’s surface. These will provide
factured domestically, is known as in English as Tri- data on wave height and sea-surface wind speeds, and help
predict the strength and track of typhoons. (courtesy of NSPO)
ton and in Chinese as liefengzhe (“wind hunter”).
Awaiting launch
In Greek mythology, Triton is a son of Poseidon,
the god of the sea. He bears a trident and carries a
conch shell that he blows to calm or raise the seas where it will collect GNSS signals reflected from the
when he begins a patrol. Earth’s surface. These reflected signals will provide
As the satellite’s name suggests, it is designed to information on wave height and sea-surface wind
track and measure air–sea interactions. Triton proj- speed, helping us predict the strength and likely
ect head Lin Chen-tsung explains: “Triton will carry path of typhoons.”
a Global Navigation Satellite System Reflectometry Triton is a relat ively un ique satellite. The UK
[GNSS-R] instrument developed by the National carried out the first work in GNSS-R wind speed
Space Organization and will fly in a low-Earth orbit, inversion, and Triton is just the fourth satellite to

獵風者的另一項任務是將
台灣自主設計製造的十項
關鍵元件與技術,送上太
空服役,累積「飛行履
歷」。(國家太空中心提
供)
The Triton mission’s
secondary objective is
to build Taiwan’s “flight
heritage” by delivering
ten domestically designed
and produced satellite
components and
technologies into space.
(courtesy of NSPO)

79
獵風者在封測廠房內的電磁相容實驗室,進行電磁相容測 奔向太空。
試。(國家太空中心提供)
Here, Triton undergoes electromagnetic compatibility testing at its 所謂自製當然不是整顆衛星全部自己做,指
assembly and test facility. (courtesy of NSPO)
的是重要的關鍵元件、技術是自己開發,獵風
者衛星的科學酬載(放在衛星上的科學儀器)
GNSS-R就是國人自行研發。GNSS-R的設計、
製造與應用是近十年才崛起的研究,但台灣的
提供。獵風者升空運作後,將補足全球海面波 腳步快得驚人,「我們2014年開始做,2016年
動的觀測與資料蒐集,加入全球氣象預測的行 已經可以試飛,並且已經試飛測試成功了,可
列。 以說我們研發的速度非常快。兩三年內就完成
日前,國家太空中心發布新聞稿,說明 了。」林辰宗說,「而且,獵風者的GNSS-R在
已完成了獵風者的最後一塊拼圖,等待明 韌體優化後,一秒可接收八筆資料,比先前服
(2023)年,將搭乘法國亞利安太空公司 役的衛星多上一倍。」氣象資料其實是資料愈
(Arianespace)的織女星C型火箭(Vega-C), 多,預測愈準,這點台灣的獵風者極具優勢。
從南美洲的圭亞那太空中心升空。 此外,還包括衛星電腦(Onboard Computer,
OBC)、電力控制單元(Power Control Unit,
自製研發再躍進
PCU)、GPS接收機(GPS Receiver, GPSR)、
2017年,台灣第一顆福爾摩沙衛星五號(簡 光纖陀螺儀(Fiber Optic Gyro, FOG)等十項關
稱福衛五號)升空,並順利進入軌道,進行遙 鍵元件與技術,自製部分達82%;包含地面設
測任務。2023年,台灣將有第二顆自製衛星要 備,共有超過20家國內研發單位及廠商參與。

80
have its primary mission oriented around a GNSS-R entific payload, the GNSS-R instrument. In fact, Tai-
scientific payload. Meteorological forecasting draws wan developed this instrument surprisingly quickly:
on a variety of measurements, but the ocean’s huge it will have taken less than ten years to design and
size and lack of weat her stations means t hat in- manufacture the device and put it into service. Lin
situ observations are unavailable for vast areas of says, “We began work in 2014 and were able to con-
it. Forecasters therefore rely on data from weather duct a test flight in 2016. We completed it in just two
satellites. Once launched and operational, Triton or three years, which is incredibly fast R&D. Opti-
will provide an additional source of global sea-level mizing the firmware on Triton’s GNSS-R enabled it
fluctuation data that can be incorporated into global to receive and process eight reflected GNSS signals
weather forecasts. simultaneously, more than double the capacity of the
Another leap forward previous satellite.” Since more weather data means
Taiwan launched its first domestically produced more accurate forecasts, Triton is sure to become an
satellite, Formosat-5, into orbit on a remote sensing exceptionally valuable resource.
mission in 2017. Taiwan now plans to launch Triton, Taiwan also produced 82% of ten key Triton com-
its second domestically designed and produced sat- ponents and technologies, including its onboard
ellite, into space in 2023.
It is worth noting that, as used here, “domestically
produced” means simply that Taiwan developed key
components and technologies, not the entire satel- 福衛五號拍攝的一張張清晰影像,協助許多國際重大災變的災
lite. In the case of Triton, Taiwanese scientists and 情分析,幫助救援。
Formosat-5’s crystal-clear images have helped many
engineers carried out the R&D for the satellite’s sci- international disaster relief efforts.

81
一步,「再一次驗證台灣衛星自主研發的能
力。」林辰宗肯定地說。

國際協力的場域

龐大的衛星計畫,絕非一己之力能完成,是
國際協力的成果。衛星取得的資料,也絕非私
用,是供給全世界氣象、救災、學術之用。每
一次的星系任務都是奠基在巨人的肩膀上,讓
我們能望向更遠的星際。
林辰宗聊到,獵風者研發的過程中,美國
國家海洋暨大氣總署(N a t i o n a l O c e a n i c a n d
Atmospheric Administration, NOAA)曾來分
享先前G N S S-R任務經驗,讓台灣團隊參考修
正,並允諾提供北極接收站,讓獵風者每次經
過北極站能傳輸資料。「獵風者未來一天繞行
地球14圈,所以會跟北極站接觸14次,跟台灣
站接觸二次,大概每90分鐘就可以傳輸科學資
料。」林辰宗說。
走進國家太空中心30周年的展場,福衛五號
拍攝的一張張清晰影像,不僅讓我們從地面重
新看見台灣,這些影像也成了許多國際重大災
變的災情分析資源,幫助救援。
福爾摩沙衛星三號(簡稱福衛三號)被譽為
「太空中最精準的溫度計」,2012年歐洲中期
火箭阿伯吳宗信接任國家太空中心主任,致力將台灣的太 預報中心(E C M W F)分析福衛三號的資料顯
空產業環境建立起來,迎接正在萌芽的太空經濟。
Since taking charge of the NSPO, rocket expert Wu Jong-shinn 示,福衛三號資料量雖僅占天氣預報所有使用
has been doing his utmost to establish Taiwan’s fledgling space
industry and space economy. 資料的2∼3%,但對減少預報誤差的貢獻度卻達
10%,貢獻度排名前五名。目前已由福衛七號接
續福衛三號的任務,提供更充沛及精準的資料
給全球氣象單位及科研人員進行極端氣候、異
我們探問林辰宗,第二顆自製衛星的意義? 常氣候、颱風的形成與路徑,以及強降雨的預
他頓了一頓,想了一想,離題地說起在實驗科 測與分析。
學中對應常態分布的三西格馬法則(three-sigma 光學遙測衛星方面,以福爾摩沙衛星二號為
r u l e o f t h u m b),他解釋得清楚,我們聽得模 例,曾在莫拉克風災以及日本311大地震等重大
糊,但還是有抓到結論與重點,對於一件未知 災害事件發生時,提供完整影像作為災情分析
的事情,第一次做對了,可能代表大方向對, 資料。2021年,福衛五號總計協助58個災害事
但當中細節並非全然清楚;第二次做對,代表 件點位共取像319次,包含印尼西蘇拉威西省地
對細節掌握已經有九成五,第三次再做對,就 震、墨西哥油管爆炸、菲律賓丹達市水災、義
是真的全懂了。就像台灣自製衛星一樣,福衛 大利埃特納火山爆發、印度北阿坎德邦水災、
五號是振奮人心的成功,這次獵風者若能再次 中國鄭州水災、高雄桃源區明霸克露橋遭沖
順利運行,那代表我們對衛星的理解又更進了 垮、日本熊本市水災、美國加州野火、印度清

82
computer, power control unit, GPS receiver, and the whole world for weather forecasting, disaster re-
fiberoptic gyro. If we include ground-based equip- sponse, and academic research.
ment, a total of more than 20 domestic R&D teams Lin mentions that the US National Oceanic and
and manufacturers have been involved in the project. Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) supported
Asked about the significance of Taiwan’s second Triton’s development by sharing its experience with
domestically produced satellite, Lin thinks for a mo- its own GNSS-R mission. The NOAA also promised
ment, and then explains that when your first pass to provide the use of its receiving station near the
at something new produces a good result, you are Arctic Circle in Alaska. “Triton will orbit the Earth
probably on the right track with your general ap- 14 times per day, during which time it will make
proach, but are likely still figuring out the details. contact with the Alaska receiving station 14 times
After your second successful pass, you prob ably and the Taiwan station twice. This means we will
have 95% of the details worked out, and by your be able to download scientific data roughly every 90
third, you know exactly what you are doing. He says minutes.”
that Taiwan’s domestic satellite production has fol- Taiwa n’s For mosat-3 m icrosatellite con stella-
lowed that kind of track: Formosat-5’s success was tion has been called “t he most accurate t hermo-
inspiring, and if Triton is similarly successful, “it meter i n space.” When t he Europea n Cent re for
will provide another testament to Taiwan’s satellite Medium- Range Weather Forecasts analyzed data
R&D capabilities.” from Formosat-3 in 2012, it noted that although the
International cooperation constellation accounted for only 2–3% of the data
A project on the scale of a satellite program is used in weather forecasting, its 10% contribution to
not an individual endeavor: it requires inter national reducing forecasting errors ranked fifth among all
cooperation to come to fruition. Similarly, the data data sources. Formosat-7 will continue Formosat-3’s
the satellite gathers isn’t private; it is provided to mission by providing still greater quantities of even

國家太空中心走過30年,一步一腳印地從衛星的整合測試,有了系統設計的能力,能自主
設計開發關鍵元件。
NSPO’s capabilities have steadily advanced over the last 30 years, progressing from satellite
integration testing to systems design and the ability to design and develop key satellite components.

83
奈水災、斯里蘭卡帕蘭坦水患、菲律賓卡拉潘 台灣進行整合測試,藉此從中學習如何設計衛
風災、加拿大溫哥華水災等,對國際救災任務 星。吳宗信解釋,台灣產業做代工很強大,可
大有助益。 以依照業主開出的規格生產出產品,但是對於
產品的需求規格為何如此,卻不知其原理。但
太空產業,一步一腳印
有了系統設計能力,就會知道如此設計的所以
2021年,國家太空中心迎來30而立的年歲, 然,可以自行設計開發衛星的關鍵元件。
國內知名的火箭阿伯吳宗信則被任命為國家太 而積累了製作關鍵元件的能 力,接 下來就
空中心主任。「走過30年,我們有了系統設計 要為技術和元件累積「飛行履歷」(f l i g h t
的能力,知道很多設計的『為什麼』了。」吳 h e r i t a g e);也就是元件要實際經歷過太空實
宗信說。 地環境的測試,在太空高溫、酷寒的環境下還
前20年的歲月,台灣在打底,做的是基礎 能正常運作,即是取得飛行履歷。吳宗信解
建設,建置整測廠房,衛星委外設計,再帶回 釋,因為一趟太空任務動輒新台幣數億的經
費,採用的元件要有信用保證,發射國才敢採
用。此次獵風者升空,亦是藉此驗證台灣自主
設計製造的十項關鍵元件與技術,若能成功送
國家太空中心裡的衛星操控中心,福衛七號收集的氣象資 上太空服役,就有很大的機會可以打進國際太
料,能供給全球氣象單位及科研人員進行預測與研究。
NSPO’s Satellite Operations Control Center. Formosat-7’s
空產業供應鏈,也將成為台灣太空產業進軍國
weather data is provided to weather forecasting organizations 際的新里程碑。    l
and researchers around the world.

84
more accurate data to weather organizations and
researchers around the world for use in forecast-
ing and analyzing extreme and abnormal weather
events, tropical cyclone formation and paths, and
heavy rainfall.
O pt ic a l r emote - s e n si ng s atel l ite s h ave t hei r
own particular capabilities. For example, the com-
prehensive imaging provided by Formosat-2 pro-
vided useful data for analyzing the aftermath of
Typhoon Morakot in 2009 and the Tōhoku Earth-
qua ke i n 2011. In 2021, For mosat-5 helped i nter-
national disaster relief missions deliver assistance
to victims by providing 319 images of the sites of 58
disasters, including an earthquake in West Sulawesi,
Indonesia; a pipeline explosion in Mexico; flood-
ing in Tandag City, the Philippines; an eruption of
Mt. Etna in Italy; flooding in Uttarakhand, India;
flooding in Zhengzhou, China; the collapse of the
Mingbakelu Bridge in Kaohsiung, Taiwan; flooding
in Kumamoto, Japan; wildfires in California in the
United States; flooding in Chennai, India; a severe
storm in the Philippines; and flooding in Vancouver,
Canada.
One step at a time
Domestic rocket expert Wu Jong-shinn became
director general of Taiwan’s 30-year-old National
Space Organization in 2021. “After 30 years in the
f ield, we a re capable of desig n i ng system s a nd
under stand many of the ‘whys’ of design,” says Wu.
He adds that although Taiwanese businesses are
very good at making products that match clients’ 台灣奔太空的夢想,正一步步的向前邁進。
specifications and requirements, they haven’t always Taiwan is making steady progress towards fulfilling its dream of
space.
been clear on why the specifications are what they
are. Now that we’ve developed system-design skills,
we better understand the reasons for design choices
and can design and develop key satellite compo- Once Taiwan has its own flight heritage, it has a
nents for ourselves. good c ha nce of brea k i ng i nto t he i nter nat iona l
Having gained the ability to manufacture key space industry supply chain. Triton’s launch will
components, our next step is to build a “flight heri- demonstrate Taiwan’s ability to design and manu-
tage,” meaning that these components and tech- facture ten key components and tech nologies. Its
nologies will have actually been tested in space, successful operation in space will represent an op-
a nd pr ove d t o op e rat e nor m a l ly i n t h at h a r s h portunity for Taiwan’s space industry to join the
environ ment. Wu explains that since space missions inter national supply chain and make headway in
typically cost hundreds of millions of NT dollars, the international market. l
nations are only willing to launch them if they have (Cathy Teng/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
confidence in the reliability of the components used. tr. by Scott Williams)

85
島嶼行旅 AROUND TAIWAN

文•曾蘭淑 圖•林格立 版面設計•馬英凱

英國是世界紅茶的中心,日本綠茶在生產與文化層面,可以說在
世界居主導地位,台灣烏龍茶則在全世界無出其右者。
然而,當台灣茶職人用代表台灣風土的烏龍茶茶菁,以精良的製
茶工藝做出全發酵的紅茶、重發酵的東方美人茶或是輕焙的清香烏
龍,進軍英國紅茶、日本綠茶大賽時,一樣決勝千里,捷報頻傳。

B ritain is the world’s most discerning market for black teas, whereas
Japan takes the lead with the production and cultural appreciation
of green teas. Taiwan, meanwhile, reigns supreme when it comes to oolong
teas. In black teas, the tea leaves undergo oxidation during processing.
Green teas are not oxidized, while oolong teas are partially oxidized.
Yet Taiwan tea growers have been using their oolong tea varieties to
make fully oxidized black teas, double-oxidized dongfang meiren (Orien-
tal Beauty) teas, and qingxiang (lightly roasted) oolong teas. They have
been entering British black tea and Japanese green tea competitions with
them—and winning awards!

86
台灣烏龍的華麗變身
用 台 灣 風 土 決 勝 世 界

Ooh La Oolong!
Taiwan’s World-Beating Teas

87
製茶師張家齊所做的
紅茶、東方美人茶,
總計拿到英國G r e a t
Taste Awards 15顆
星星。
Master tea processor
Jacky Chang has won
15 stars from the UK’s
Great Taste Awards for
his black and dongfang
meiren teas.

過了立秋,天氣仍高溫炎熱,晴朗藍天映照 調:「我可不是橫空出世,而是傳承三代的茶職
著遠方的雪霸高山,張家齊查看著自家茶園在苗 人。」他的阿公張健業日治時代即代工關東綠茶
栗三灣的青心大冇茶樹,感嘆著:「今年氣候的 外銷日本,父親張木榮是台灣炒茶機的發明者,
異常變化,影響了小綠葉蟬的著涎。」但他仍難 各式的製茶機外銷日本、歐洲。
掩興奮地說,剛收到英國Great Taste Awards的通 從小就是喝著各種冠軍好茶長大的張家齊,
知,他今年再度拿到最高三星級獎。 記憶中的好茶是阿公那個時代,裝在大鐵罐中,
已舉辦28屆的英國Great Taste Awards,每年來 泡出溫潤綿長味道的茶。他以嚴肅的語氣指出:
自超過100個國家、上萬件的食品參賽,由500位 「現今坊間許多茶還會喝到化學肥料味。」帶著
食品與酒的評審選出獲得一至三星級的得獎者, 些許不甘心,大多是好勝心,張家齊走遍台灣茶
淘汰率近七成。今(2022)年單一莊園茶葉三星 山,請教茶專家,想做出好茶,並且直接從參加
得獎者有四件,台灣就佔了二家──張家齊的東 國際賽來證明自己。
方美人茶與來自坪林茶農謝金土的包種茶。 2018年他帶著在台灣一公斤約三萬元等級的茶
去英國Great Taste Awards 參加比賽,卻慘遭淘
尋找記憶點
汰,並且被評審批評:「沒有記憶點。」
參賽五年,總計拿到英國Great Taste Awards計 為了做出「讓人忘不了」的茶,張家齊用九
15顆星星的張家齊,創下許多第一的紀錄,2019 宮格的方法,橫軸為提高發酵度、烘焙度與風
年他以「Formo Cha高山果香紅茶」為名的紅茶 味;直軸為調整溼度、溫度與烘培時間。他用愛
拿到三顆星,是第一位拿到此榮譽的台灣人。 因斯坦的話自勉:「沒有失敗的人代表他不會
2021年以兩款東方美人茶,在全球只有三件「單 創新。」在不斷試錯的過程中,以細膩執著的功
一莊園茶類」三顆星的作品中,包辦其中兩座, 夫,企圖建立完美的烘焙曲線。
再次代表台灣締造紀錄。
反骨做法,極致之作
能從全世界頂級的茶莊、茶商集團中脫穎而
出,可以說是「個體戶」製茶師的張家齊笑著強 張家齊做出的紅茶,茶湯呈現明亮的酒紅色,

88
The mid-August weather is still hot, with clear the 28th year of the awards, there were just four
blue skies offering views of the peaks in Shei-Pa Na- single- estate teas globally that earned three stars,
tional Park. As Jacky Chang inspects the ‘Chin Shin two of which came from Taiwan: Jacky Chang’s Ori-
Dah Pan’ (qingxin dapang) cultivar tea bushes on his ental Beauty, and the Paochong (baozhong) tea from
tea farm in Miaoli County’s Sanwan Township, he Hsieh Chin-tu’s farm in Pinglin, New Taipei City.
sighs: “The erratic weather this year has affected Looking to make a mark
the activity of the tea jassids.” Nevertheless, he can’t Chang has been entering the awards competition
conceal his excitement about having just been no- for five years and has earned 15 stars in all. He has
tified that one of his teas once again received three set several firsts along the way: In 2019, his Formo
stars from the UK’s Great Taste Awards. Cha High Mountain Fruity Black Tea took three
The Great Taste Awards accept entries of more stars at the Great Taste Awards—a first for Taiwan.
than 10,000 food items every year from over 100 And in 2021, when only three single-estate teas
countries. Of these, 500 judges award worthy food from around the world won three stars, two were
and drink products one to three stars. More than Chang’s Oriental Beauty teas.
70% of entered products receive no stars. In 2022, But bac k i n 2018 he took tea of a g rade t hat
would go for NT$30,000 per kilogram in Taiwan to
the Great Taste Awards, but came up starless. The
judges, moreover, described the brew as bland and
said that it left no impression.
To produce an “unforgettable” tea, Chang used a
three-by-three matrix in his systematic search for a
perfect roasting profile: The horizontal
elements included increases in the
level of oxidation, the level of roast-
ing, and flavor; and the vertical
elements represented adjustments
to moisture content, temperature,
and roasting time.
Maverick path to glory
The black tea Chang produced
has a bright red tint, and it car-
ries a faint aroma of tropical

張家齊製作的紅茶,入喉帶著若有似
無的熱帶果香味,令人回味。
Chang’s black tea carries the faint aroma
of tropical fruit when it hits the throat.
Drinkers always remember it fondly.

張家齊認為,紅茶在烘焙時,藉由烘焙溫度的
調整,可以修飾茶的澀味,增加茶湯的溫潤度。
Chang believes that roasting black tea using radiant
heat can modify the astringency of tea and add to its
smoothness.

89
入喉帶著若有似無的熱帶果香,有人說像百香果
或芒果,有人說像鳳梨或水蜜桃,果香在上,後
味接著類似萬壽菊的花香,餘韻不斷。果真,他
的作品在2019年英國Great Taste Awards獲得「單
一莊園」品項三星獎。
當評審宣布他獲得最高榮譽三星獎時,「真
的是我?」拿著國旗上台領獎,發抖的雙腳既緊
張又興奮。回想那時經歷,張家齊仍不禁哽咽地
說:「我可以代表我的國家,讓全世界的茶專家
都注意到台灣了。」
能夠在世界紅茶的中心英國以紅茶取勝,他透
露,不是用大葉種,而是選用南投仁愛鄉的青心
烏龍茶樹種。
製程更是跌破茶專家的眼鏡。以往台灣茶傳
統作法,只有鐵觀音、凍頂烏龍會烘焙,東方美
人茶與紅茶不會烘。但張家齊卻改變百年來不變
的製程,用他爸爸的專利──插電的「無火炭焙
機」來焙紅茶與東方美人茶。如此烘茶,連他的
父親都看不下去。
張家齊2019年在英國參加決賽期間,在大英博物館前推廣
張家齊辯解,他鑽研過教科書,請教過大學 台灣茶,並應邀為當地華人開課介紹台灣茶,邀請大家來
教授,這是梅納反應的原理(指食物在烹飪過程 台灣旅遊。(張家齊提供)
In 2019 Jacky Chang attended the finals of the Great Taste
中,形成新的香氣與風味的反應),藉此調整茶 Awards in Britain, where he promoted Taiwanese teas at the
British Museum and invited local ethnic Chinese to attend classes
葉的風味。 in which introduced teas from Taiwan. He encouraged everyone
to visit Taiwan. (courtesy of Jacky Chang)
還有台灣溼氣重,一般茶師做好茶,一定要用
夾鍊袋綁好,但張家齊卻讓他的紅茶開袋子,吸
收所需要的溼度。他說:「剛粗製好的茶,如果
丟到歐洲或是日本,絕對做不出來,因為就是沒 東方美人茶,出身東方美人茶鄉的張家齊不服
有台灣的溼度。」 輸,選用青心大冇茶樹種,調整發酵的程度,
張家齊又改變烘焙機的轉速,讓紅茶既可保留 修改他的製茶曲線,皇天不負苦心人,2020年
果香又可提高鮮味,參加2021年日本世界綠茶大 拿到兩顆星,他再接再厲,2021年更以兩款
賽的非綠茶組,創下15年來,第一次有台灣茶師 東方美人各拿到三顆星,讓台灣的東方美人茶
以紅茶拿到最高金賞的紀錄。 「茗」揚國際。
全世界有70∼80%的人喝紅茶,「用我所創出 他的東方美人茶,湯茶呈現通透的琥珀色,
來的曲線,讓世界大賽專業的評審看見,台灣不 品茗時,前味帶著微妙的茉莉花香,中味出現柑
只有高山茶。」張家齊說:「我用台灣烏龍的品 橘熟果香。尤其2021年,茶樹遇到殺手級的乾
種,融合日光萎凋、翻攪等烏龍茶製程的引子, 旱天氣,他用製茶工藝托住氣候暖化帶來的變異
用紅茶的製程,搭配台灣的溼度帶出令人愉悅的 因素,同時,他請老中青三代九位茶師盲測,藉
果香酸度,可以造就出一支稱霸世界的紅茶。」 由調降五度水溫、增加浸泡二分鐘時間來調整風
味。
用製茶工藝彌補氣候變遷
但「拜疫情之賜」,主辦單位宣布收件延遲
2019年只獲得英國Great Taste Awards一星的 一個月,這時台灣開始下雨,有了雨水滋潤的茶

90
如果老天賞臉,不多雨也不乾旱,小綠葉蟬便會現身叮咬茶葉,可以做出可遇不可求的蜜香。
With Heaven’s blessing, a tea crop will suffer neither excessive rains nor withering droughts, and tea
jassids will come out to nibble on the leaves, leaving them with a sweet, honey-like scent.

fruits as it goes down the throat. Some say it sug- the 15 years of the competition that a Taiwanese tea
gests passion fruit or mango, and others pineapple producer had been honored with the top award for a
or peach. The finish holds a lingering floral note like black tea.
marigold. The effort earned three GTA stars among Globally, 70–80% of tea drinkers drink black tea.
single-estate teas in 2019. “By using the roasting profiles I’ve developed and
When the judges announced that he had won the letting judges at top competitions around the world
highest honor of three stars, Chang thought to him- have a taste, we’ve shown that Taiwan is no longer
self, “Is it really me?” He carried an ROC flag to the just about its high-mountain teas,” Chang says. “I use
stage, trembling with nervousness and excitement. Taiwan oolong varieties and a few techniques from
Recalling that experience, Chang chokes up a bit as the oolong-making process such as sun-withering
he says, “I was able to represent my country, and get and stirring, but I largely follow the process for mak-
tea experts from around the world to pay attention ing black tea, which in conjunction with Taiwan’s hu-
to Taiwan.” midity brings a fruity tartness that people love. The
To emerge victorious with a black tea in the UK, end result is a world-beating black tea.”
he eschewed large-leaf tea varieties and selected In 2019, he had won a single star for his dongfang
‘Chin Shin [qingxin] Oolong’ tea bushes from Ren’ai meiren tea at the Great Taste Awards. Yet coming
Township in Nantou. from the homeland of dongfang meiren teas, Chang
Chang also changed the rotation speed of the kept at it, using the qingxing dapang tea variety, ad-
roaster to create a black tea that held its fruity fra- justing the level of oxidation and improving the tea
grance and freshness. Entering Japan’s World Green processing profile. Heaven helps those who help
Tea Contest in the category for non-green teas, he themselves, and in 2020 he earned two stars. Then in
earned the Grand Gold Prize. It was the first time in 2021 he won three stars with two separate dongfang

91
用高山青心烏龍茶樹做的梨山紅茶,茶湯甘甜細緻,又帶
有烏龍的花果香。
Hwa Gung’s Lishan black teas, made from high-mountain oolong,
offer sweet and refined brews that still hold some of oolong’s
floral notes.

經常應邀擔任茶比賽評審的杜蒼林認為,好茶三要素為環
境、氣候、製作工藝。
Johnny Tu, who often serves as a judge at tea competitions,
believes that three elements combine to create a good tea: the
environment, the climate and production skills.

樹,配合他的製茶曲線,作出第二號的東方美人 科學的原理,現今亦在中興大學任教的他說:
茶,自認是「畢生之作」的張家齊再拿去參賽, 「茶在製作的過程,為什麼從綠茶變成清香烏
果真又奪三顆星。 龍、果香烏龍,甚至發酵重一點,變成紅烏
龍,就是『弄』的過程中,因為溫度、溼度的
第五代接班人的逆襲
改變,造成茶多酚、酵素活性的改變,促成香
無獨有偶,懷抱著做出昔日好味道的初心,以 氣與滋味的轉化,產生清香、花香、果香等多
烏龍茶種做梨山高山紅茶的華剛茶業,亦是各個 元香氣。」
茶葉大賽中的常勝軍。 想把學成一身的茶知識應用在實際做茶上,
已是第五代茶莊傳人的杜蒼林說,小時候喝爺 重現父執輩時代做鐵觀音、凍頂烏龍的工藝與
爺泡的凍頂烏龍,有著喉韻飽滿、茶湯回甘的美 味道。2009年杜蒼林從秋茶開始試做,將產於
好記憶,想要再做出質地細膩的好茶。 2,000公尺高海拔的青心烏龍茶菁,以多重攪拌
2005年回家照顧生病的阿公,開始幫忙做茶 方式,用望月式揉捻機進行揉捻,帶出高揚的香
的杜蒼林,總是聽著製茶的老師傅說:「茶袂 氣,做出來的紅烏龍帶著特別的甜果香。
『弄』(lāng)就袂香!」(茶菁如果沒有攪拌 他又用青心烏龍茶菁,製作重發酵、重萎凋的
就不會香)但為什麼要攪拌?如何攪拌?師傅知 紅茶,甚至進行到第六次攪拌,但隨著攪拌次數
其然卻不知其所以然。 的增加,失敗率愈高,可能帶出茶的苦澀,更需
到茶改場等地上課,杜蒼林了解了許多製茶 全神貫注,精準拿捏,才能做出好茶。

92
meiren teas. Those really put Taiwan on the map for acteristic of high-mountain qingxin oolong is its
dongfang meiren teas. His teas have a transparent am- smooth mouthfeel. The aroma and taste of the Li-
ber color. At attack they carry a hint of jasmine, while shan Black Tea that he makes with it is even sweeter
at midpalate a citrusy aroma takes center stage. and more refined than Darjeeling, while possessing
The fifth generation takes charge the floral fruitiness of oolong.
Coincidentally, Hwa Gung Tea, which is keen In 2013 Hwa Gung Tea was invited to take part in
to recreate the excellent tastes of the past and uses the triennial World Tea Festival in Shizuoka, Japan.
oolong varieties for its Lishan black teas, is also a At the festival, Princess Akiko of Mikasa spe-
frequent winner at various major tea competitions. cially came to express gratitude for the aid that
Johnny Tu, the fifth-generation proprietor of the Taiwan provided after the March 11, 2011 Tōhoku
firm, recalls drinking his grandfather’s dongding earthquake and tsunami and to visit every stand.
oolong when he was little. He fondly remembers its When she tasted Hwa Gung’s Lishan Black Tea, she
full-bodied flavor. It made him want to produce a said, “Wonderful!” The next day an endless stream
good tea with a smooth mouthfeel. of Japanese consumers came to buy the tea.
In 2005 he came home to take care of his ailing In 2013 Tu resolved to compete i n t he World
grandfather and began to help process teas. He Green Tea Contest at the next festival three years
would always hear the tea masters say, “Tea that later. He predicted with confidence: “Our tea will
isn’t stirred won’t be fragrant.” But why did it need
to be stirred? And how should it be stirred? The
masters knew it as a truism of tea processing but
didn’t know the reason behind it.
Taking classes at the Council of Agriculture’s Tea
Research and Extension Station and elsewhere, Tu
gained an understanding of the scientific principles
of tea production.
He took what he had learned and applied it to
recreate the techniques used and flavors created by
earlier generations of his family in making tieguan­
yin and dongding oolong teas. Beginning with his fall
crop in 2009, Tu began to experiment with process-
ing qingxin oolong grown at 2,000 meters, stirring
the leaves multiple times and using a tea rolling
machine. The teas had refined aromas, with his red
oolong carrying an especially sweet fruity scent.
He took fresh qingxin oolong leaves and subjected
them to double oxidation and withering to create
a black tea, going so far as to give the leaves six
rounds of stirring. Tu says that the defining char-

2016年華剛茶業以梨山清香烏龍與梨山紅茶,拿到日本
綠茶比賽兩個最高金賞的獎項。(華剛茶業提供)
In 2016 Hwa Gung Tea won two Grand Gold Prizes at Japan’s
World Green Tea Contest for its Lishan black and qingxiang
oolong teas. (courtesy of Hwa Gung Tea)

93
日光萎凋的製程,茶師須輕柔翻拌生葉,幫助茶菁水份蒸散。(華剛茶業提供)
During the process of sun withering, a tea master gently flips the leaves, helping to promote
drying. (courtesy of Hwa Gung Tea)

杜蒼林說,高山青心烏龍的特點是茶湯很綿 也都以台灣烏龍茶等,拿到日本世界綠茶大賽的
柔,做出來的梨山紅茶,香氣滋味又比大吉嶺更 最高金賞。
甘甜細緻,同時又帶有烏龍的花果香。 杜蒼林解釋,就像法國的波爾多葡萄酒產區一
「努力不一定有機會,有嘗試就有機會。」 般,台灣風土環境是海島型氣候,地質又是歐亞
2013年華剛茶業獲農糧署選為第一屆衛生安全製 板塊碰撞的新地質層,土壤新又富含礦物,加上
茶廠評鑑中,唯一一家海拔2,400公尺以上茶區的 秋、冬有東北季風,春、夏有西南季風的吹拂,
五星茶廠,受邀參加日本靜岡縣每三年舉辦一次 茶樹在雲霧繚繞的氣候生長,讓台灣的高山茶呈
的世界茶葉節。 現獨特的山頭氣韻。
參展時,日本皇室公主特地前來感謝台灣對日 其中梨山茶區年平均溫度20度以下、溼度約
本311震災的捐助,並且逐攤致意。當她品嚐到 70∼80度,加上不用除草劑的友善農法,用青
梨山紅茶時,說了「素晴らしい」(令人讚賞) 心烏龍品種做的茶,搭配不同的發酵程度,可以
這句話,現場媒體閃光燈閃個不停,杜蒼林與公 呈現甜果香或是熟果香。例如華剛茶業高海拔的
主的互動,還上了日本讀賣新聞,隔日想買梨山 梨山紅茶、清香烏龍,自2018連續三年拿到法國
紅茶的日本消費者絡繹不絕。 AVPA世界茶葉大賽的金獎,以及2021年比利時
2013年杜蒼林心想,三年後一定要參加靜岡世 Monde Selection 二金一銀的成績。
界綠茶大賽,他很有自信地說:「我們的茶一定 「茶葉是最直白、裸露的食品,融在水裡,
會得獎。」果真2016年華剛茶業就以梨山清香烏 呈現的茶湯、香氣,可以喝出製作工藝、天氣與
龍與梨山紅茶,拿到兩個最高金賞的獎項(即所 環境。」杜蒼林說,就像蘇格蘭威士忌的單一純
有參賽作品的前十名)。 麥,或是單一莊園的咖啡一樣,出自台灣單一莊
園,用青心烏龍單一品種、單一季節做的精品
單一品種,單一莊園
茶,推廣到全世界,可以喝出細膩秀雅台灣風土
近五年來,嶢陽茶行、開蘭茶、遊山茶訪等, 的茶韻。 l

94
certainly win a prize.” As foreseen, in 2016 Hwa bushes. In concert, these conditions make Taiwan’s
Gung’s Lishan Oolong Tea and Lishan Black Tea mountain slopes uniquely suited to growing tea.
both won Grand Gold Prizes (only awarded to the For instance, for t h ree years r un n ing beg in­
top ten teas at the competition). ning in 2018, high­mountain Lishan black teas and
Single estate, single variety qing xiang oolong teas won golds at France’s AVPA
Over the last five years, Geow Yong Tea Hong, (Agency for the Valorization of Agricultural Prod­
Kalon Tea, Yoshan Tea and others have likewise ucts) awards, as well as two golds and a silver at
won golds at the event for their oolong teas grown Belgium’s Monde Selection awards in 2021.
on high mountain slopes around Lishan and Ali­ “Tea leaves are the most straightforward and
shan. ‘naked’ of foods. From the brewed tea and its aroma,
Just as Bordeaux in France is particularly suited one can discern the weather and environment in
to growing wine grapes, Taiwan, explains Tu, has which it was grown.” In Tu’s reckoning, Taiwan’s
conditions well suited to tea cultivation, including fine teas are like single­malt whiskies from Scot­
an island climate and recent geological formations land or single-estate coffees. Marketed worldwide,
uplifted by the collision of the Eurasian Plate and these exquisite teas made using leaves from a single
the Philippine Sea Plate that make its soil particu­ variety of qingxin oolong grown at the same farm in
larly mineral rich. In the fall and winter the pre­ the same season can give their drinkers a sense of
vailing winds in Taiwan blow from the northeast, Taiwan’s terroir and the nuanced elegance of its tea
whereas in the spring and summer they blow from culture. l
the southwest. These shroud its mountain slopes (Esther Tseng/photos by Jimmy Lin/
with clouds and fog that support the growth of tea tr. by Jonathan Barnard)

梨山高海拔茶區,用青心烏龍單一品種、單一季節做的精品
茶,可以喝出細膩秀雅台灣風土的茶韻。(華剛茶業提供)
From the high-elevation tea district of Lishan come single-estate teas
using leaves from a single season’s crop that capture the refined
nuances of the terroir. (courtesy of Hwa Gung Tea)

95
島嶼行旅 AROUND TAIWAN

融合綠能科技
的電幻魅力
台 電 電 幻 1 號 所

The Electric Charm of Green Tech:


Taipower D/S One

文•楊齡媛 圖•莊坤儒 版面設計•馬英凱

向來給民眾中規中矩國營事業印象的台灣電力公司
(簡稱台電),成立於1946年,至今已有77年的資歷。
從2016年起,台電內部對於品牌未來定位開始翻天覆地
的討論,並且從啟動文史資料的保存工作開始,企圖把
老字號的招牌不但要擦亮,還要鑲上金框。

F ounded in 1946, Taiwan Power Company has been pro-


viding power to Taiwan for 77 years. Generally consid-
ered a rather staid and conservative state-run enter prise, the
company began intense internal discussions about its future
direction and standing in 2016. It initiated a document pres-
ervation program in that year, and has been hard at work
reframing its image ever since.

96
力。
足的電幻魅 nology.
最 能 感 受科技感十 tri c ch arm of tech
放 電 場 ,
at es th e el ec
」 的 in
在「電幻1
號所 Field” illum
ischarging
/S One’s “D
Taipower D

97
台電對外積極展示自身的藝文量能,除了舉辦 如果你有機會造訪電幻1號所,就會看到電力結
多場人文藝術展覽、成立文物研究中心、協辦源 合藝術、融合科技、合併運動的新創想,馬上解
自法國的「白晝之夜」(Nuit Blanche)、釋放公 放你對於電力呆板應用的視野。
共空間打造公共裝置藝術等等,獲得許多國內外 剛認識電幻1號所的人,會被外部一座金屬鏡
藝術與設計大獎的肯定。2019年,台電更在新北 面牆所吸引,這座「城市光井」是一個互動式裝
市新板特區的新大樓打造了一座綠能展示空間, 置藝術,白天透過金屬牆反射周遭的景觀,夜
以文創×科技的新姿態,為台電鍍上一層又潮又 晚則呈現LED燈光與人的互動動畫;當路人經過
年輕的新形象。 光牆,會帶出三種呈現太陽能、風能與潮汐能的
動畫效果,十分吸睛。不過,熟門熟路的人,會
解放你對電力的想像
直接前進到二樓,在櫃檯領取計分手環,體驗能
也許你以為,隨手可得的電力,只是讓家裡的 源健身房(ENERGYM)的厲害。無論是踩踩飛
燈泡在黑夜時為你綻放光明,或是為電器注入能 輪,練練投籃身段,測一測左右的彈跳力,或是
量為你所用,這是常識和習慣侷限了你的想像; 來段熱瑜珈,把汗水轉化成發電的能量,心情也
隨之發光。
「在這裡,我們把綠能智慧的未來內涵及應
用做了最好的展示,希望讓民眾認識並擁抱綠
能。」台電公眾服務處處長袁梅玲說明打造電幻
1號所的初衷。二樓健身房的目的,是想讓大眾
了解再生能源的發電原理,藉由有趣的健身活
動,把再生能源需要自然動力發電的概念結合,
也就是每一種健身活動搭配一種再生能源,例如
左右彈跳達標後,就能啟動天花板上的小風扇;
地熱飛輪,是用腳踏車的踏動模擬擾動地底岩漿
的效果,當踩踏次數達標後,就會釋出地熱的蒸
汽化為動力等,完成所有運動項目後,在越短時
間內達標者的分數越高。「許多玩遊戲上癮後的
人,最後變成認真來運動,還有人每周都來報
到。」袁梅玲說。

在風力發電機上沉浸體驗

二樓除了有娛樂性質的健身設施之外,還有教
育性的互動裝置,例如在六片透明面板上捕捉風
力、光電、水力等即時發電動態的能源觀測站,
或是運用積木模擬智慧電網做電力調度的電力心
跳,都能加深參觀者對電力輸配的認識。

隱身在辦公大樓裡的「電幻1號所」,是全國首座綠能主題
展示館。
Hidden within an office building, Taipower D/S One is Taiwan’s
first green-energy-themed exhibition hall.

98
公眾服務處處長袁梅
玲,是台電近年來積
極投入藝術領域的推
手。
Taipower PR director
Yuan Mei-ling has been
pushing the company’s
recent involvement in the
arts.

O v e r t h e l a s t f e w y e a r s , Ta i p o w e r h a s into electrical energy and brighten their mood


demonst rated its art ist ic a nd c ult ural cac het by pedaling a stationary bike, shooting baskets,
by establishing a center for cultural research, bouncing side to side on the “hydraulic jump,”
co-sponsoring a French-style Nuit Blanche event, or even doing a bit of “greenhouse yoga.”
and making spaces available for public art instal- Yuan Mei-ling, Taipower’s public relations
lations. One of Taipower’s biggest achievements director, explains Taipower’s goal for D/S One:
in this area is the green-energy exhibition space it “It provides great exhibits depicting how green
opened in 2019 in its new building in the Xinban energy will look and what it will be in the fu-
Special District, a development zone in Banqiao, ture, in the hope that the public will come to
New Taipei City. The space, dubbed Taipower D/S u nderst a nd a nd embrace g re en power.” The
One, puts a creative and cultural spin on tech- Energym aims to foster understanding of renew-
nology to give the venerable company’s image a able energy by using fun physical activities to
more youthful and contemporary luster. demonstrate the principle behind each type. For
Reimagining electrical power example, the “hydraulic jump” bouncing activ-
First time visitors to D/S One will find their ity shows how wind power works by triggering
eyes immediately draw n to t he metal-walled small fans mounted on the ceiling. Pedaling a
c ube t hat sta nds out side t he ma i n bu i ld i ng. stationary bike illustrates the mechanisms of
Dubbed the “urban light well,” the art installa- geothermal power by stirring virtual magma.
tion reflects light from its metal walls during the When a cyclist reaches their exercise goal, the
day, and at night lights up with interactive LED magma generates geothermal steam that is then
animations that represent Taiwan’s daily solar, converted into power.
wind and hydro power output. Visitors already The first floor of D/S One features its popular
familiar with D/S One will likely head straight six-axis virtual-reality robot, which takes vis-
to the second-floor reception desk to pick up an itors on a bird’s-eye first-person-view journey
“energy bracelet” on their way to the wonderful from D/S One to the wind power farm located
Energym. There, they can convert their sweat in Taichung’s Gaomei Wetlands. Visitors ride

99
而一樓有座最受歡迎的V R六軸機器人,是透
過FPV(First-Person View)穿越機以第一人稱
的鳥瞰視角,從1號所出發去到台中高美濕地的
風場,一路上跟著起伏飛行帶點小刺激,接著就
會看到真實的風力發電機矗立在眼前,而且可以
跟著維修人員進入觀看內外構造,並到達20層樓
高的風力發電機頂端感受他們在風機上維修的情
境,是很難得的體驗。袁梅玲說,機械手臂上還
有裝置小風扇的設計巧思,讓體驗者從視覺、聽
覺與觸覺一起沉浸於飛行在虛擬真實的世界中。

與科技藝術相遇,在工作坊碰撞創意

作為與民眾溝通互動的場所,電幻1號所更用
心在整體空間的舒適感,當你進入這方場域,首
先感受空間極簡風格帶出的靜謐氛圍;走上樓
梯,會看見懸吊在挑高天花板上的巨型垂飾,這
是利用發電的副產品煤灰與白瓷3D列印所做成的
裝置藝術《氤氳》,每個吊飾覆上紋路起伏的白
瓷,是藝術家闞凱宇透過電能數據運算轉化為表
面波紋,想把看不見的電力能量匯聚成雕塑品,
表達了煤灰再利用與循環經濟的價值。這件藝術
裝置還獲得了被喻為歐洲設計界奧斯卡的義大利
A’Design Awards全球設計比賽的銅獎。二樓還有
期間限定的裝置藝術,例如這一季的《彼岸》,

藝術家與電碰撞下的藝術裝
置,啟發你對電的想像。
Artist and electricity collide
in this installation that will
transform your image of
electrical power.

裝置藝術《氤氳》
The 3D-printed ceramic
artwork Yinyun.

100
the wind all the way there, see a real wind tur- of the circular economy. D/S One’s second floor
bine up close, and then follow along as a main- houses temporary installations such as Faramita,
tena nce worker c hec k s over t he tower. It ’s a a work by Lin Shu-yu that uses flowing water to
remarkable experience. Yuan says that fans built open a mechanical flower as a way to represent
into the robot’s handles take the experience to the process by which water generates renewable
another level by adding a tactile dimension to power. Viewers are invited to pour water into
the ride’s visual and auditory elements. the installation’s mechanism, triggering a pro-
Art meets technology cess that demonstrates the relationship between
As a forum for interacting with the public, energy and the lifecycle of a flower, and the co-
D/S One strives to be a comfortable space. One existence of nature and technology.
of the first things you notice on entering is the Knowledge-seeking visitors will find that the
calm atmosphere created by its minimalist de- first-floor Powerlab suits them to a T—the area
sign. As you climb the stairs, an array of large holds workshops at least once a month. The last
wh ite objec t s ha ng i ng f rom t he h ig h cei l i ng term’s hands-on excursions into energy aesthet-
catches your eye. Collectively an art installation ics included using a lollipop to make sounds, a
called Yinyun, each element in the array is 3D windmill-powered weightlifting competition,
printed from white porcelain and recycled coal
ash and decorated with a pattern derived from
electric power data. The work, which earned
在E N E R G Y M裡盡情顯擺身體熱量,親眼見證轉化為電能
artist Kamm Kai Yu a bronze A’ Design Award, 的那一刻。(台電電幻1號所提供)
transforms invisible electrical energy into sculp- Visitors to the Energym use exercise to trigger exhibits that
illustrate the principles behind renewable energy.
ture, and reuses coal ash to illustrate the value (courtesy of Taipower D/S One)

101
一樓的POWERLAB是利用能源當成創作的異想世界。
Taipower D/S One’s first-floor Powerlab aims to drive “energetic”
innovation.

VR六軸機器人帶你沉浸飛行在虛擬真實的世界中。
This six-axis VR robot takes riders on an immersive virtual flight.

車力量來場舉重比賽,甚至有老師異想天開,把
穿在身上的布料當成控制器等等,運用了不同的
媒材與行動,注入五感的新體驗,非常有創意。
除此之外,電幻1號所還自製綠能教具,簡單的
「永續居家」,讓小朋友動手組裝小型風力發電
模型,吹動扇葉就能點亮模型家的燈泡,讓孩子
了解風力轉換為電力的過程,也啟蒙他們打造自
己的風力小家園。難度高一點的能源撲克牌,有
專屬的玩法,每位玩家都是用電個體戶,能彼此
互聯或提供電力交易,形成區域型智慧電網,是
亟需腦力的益智遊戲。這些教具已經與雙北地區
指標性學校合作,而且持續在其它校園發酵中。
「我們希望構築一座接軌未來的共創平台,以
跨界工作坊形式,讓各領域創作者不斷在創造和
實驗中尋找拓展綠能應用的答案。現在則是積極
推廣到教育層,深化孩子對再生能源的印象。」
袁梅玲說,電幻1號所開幕至今,參訪人次已突
破十萬,並有上萬位民眾參與活動,而且持續與
是藝術家林書瑜借用流水落差的位能(比擬水作 周邊學校互動,藉由活動與工作坊散播再生能源
為再生能源的動力方式)觸動機械花的開闔,不 的知識。
但呈現能量與花生命週期之間的關聯,又有流水
積極轉型,要創新更要會溝通
與機械、能量與花等自然與科技共存的意義,是
一件參觀者可以親自參與的藝術裝置。而之前也 以往台電的變電所大多結合在地都市規劃,將
曾展出聲光互動裝置,或是用枯樹枝加上動力機 空間與民共享,但這次電幻1號所所在是台電新蓋
械製作成的仿生獸等裝置藝術,都能啟發參觀者 的新民大樓,樓高共21層,二到六樓是停車場,
對科技加上藝術的想像。 六樓以上是辦公室,地下四層則是一次配電的變
如果你是屬於知識派的參觀者,位居一樓的創 電所,供電給新板特區以及周邊住戶使用。與學
客交流區(POWERLAB)應該很得你心,這裡 校和公益團體合作,把回饋的力度加大並讓更多
每個月都會舉辦至少一場的工作坊,例如上一季 人受惠,是台電近期積極創新轉型的範本之一。
的系列活動是顛覆五感的能源美學,授課老師教 「大眾的轉念對於社會永續發展很重要,所以
大家如何用棒棒糖發出聲音,或是運用古老的風 台電努力創造與社會對話的機會。」袁梅玲認為

102
and even the use of clothing to control devices. is working hard to create opportunities for dia-
The exceptionally creative space provides vis- logue.” Yuan believes that D/S One is an import-
itors with new sensory experiences through a ant part of this effort. This year, for example,
vari ety of different media and activities. D/S D/S O ne is work i ng w it h a sc ience teac hers’
One has also produced green-energy materials group sponsored by the K-12 Education Admin-
for educators that include a project to help chil- istration of the Ministry of Education (MOE),
dren u ndersta nd t he process by wh ic h w i nd and with Za Share, Taiwan’s largest innovative
energ y is conver ted to elec t r ica l power. The edu ca tion enterprise, to develop three brand-
project guides children through the assembly of new educat ional tools to bri ng g reen energ y
a model wind turbine that turns when blown, education to all of Taiwan’s elementary, mid-
power i ng t he l ig ht s i n a model “susta i nable dle, and high schools, its universities, and the
home.” general public. In addition, D/S One is work-
“Our goal is to build a fut ure-oriented co- ing with Banqiao Senior High School, Xinban

creat ion plat for m usi ng a cross-disc ipl i na r y 「電幻1號所」獨家打造的商品與教具,質感好、創意


workshop model that will enable creators in dif- 足,頗受青睞。
Taipower D/S One’s creative products and educational materials
ferent fields to experiment and innovate in find- are a big hit with visitors.
ing ways to expand green energy applications.
More immediately, we are actively promoting
education to deepen children’s awareness of re-
newable energy.” Taipower’s Yuan Mei-ling says Special District schools, and local government to
that more than 100,000 people have visited D/S establish the Design and Technology Alliance,
One since it opened, and that more than 10,000 which will promote living-technology courses.
have taken part in the exhibition space’s activ- Named one of Taiwan’s “Ten Science Bases” at
ities and events. She adds that the facility also the MOE’s first Taiwan Science Festival in 2020,
continues to engage with nearby schools via ac- D/S One has cooperated wit h Young Scientist
tivities and workshops that spread understand- Monthly on a “wind catcher” project that enabled
ing of renewable energy. children to build their own anemometer, and
Innovation and communication with Mr. Sci Science Factory on an event that
“Cha ng i ng how people t h i n k is c r uc ia l to showed attendees how to make their own Ward-
sustainable development. That’s why Taipower ian case terrariums. These hands-on science-

103
電幻1號所在其中扮演了很好的角色,例如今年 究院)總顧問張光民等多位設計師與多媒體公
與教育部國教署專業教師群,以及台灣最大創新 司合作,獲得2020年第十三屆中華民國室內設
教育團隊「雜學校」合作,共同研發三款全新教 計協會(Chinese Society of Interior Designers
具將綠色能源教育落實於全台小學、國中、高 T I D Aw a r d)台灣室內設計大獎金獎,以及公
中、大學乃至於一般民眾,或是與板橋高中、新 共空間的機構空間類、品牌設計類獎的肯定,
板特區學校以及地方政府成立「D.T.聯盟」,推 同時也獲得國際矚目,得到2020年德國紅點設
展生活科技課程也兼顧新北市生活科技教學的特 計大獎(Red Dot Design Award)、2020年美
色。不僅如此,2020年教育部首次辦理「台灣 國博物館協會的媒體與科技繆思獎(M e d i a &
科學節」活動,電幻1號所就獲選為「十大科普 Technology Muse Awards, MUSE Awards)、場
基地」之一,而且和《科學少年》雜誌合作「捕 域數位體驗(Onsite Digital Experience)榮譽
捉風的儀器」讓青少年自製風速計,還有與賽先 獎、2021美國國際獎項協會(IAA)繆思國際設
生科學工廠合辦「來電植物園」,讓民眾製作華 計獎金獎等,讓台電更有信心繼續推出2號,甚
德箱植物瓶,結合科普知識與手作活動,也得到 至3號所。
2021年第17屆遠見雜誌企業社會責任獎教育推廣 「台電期許這個品牌成為未來全台綠能教育中
組的首獎。 心,將綠色思潮、能源轉型的概念帶入,共創台
這是全台第一個再生能源主題展示館,也是 灣的永續未來。」袁梅玲笑著說,目前最希望這
台電推出的第一個場域品牌,打造之初請到卡 裡能成為民眾假日最想來的休閒場所,一起探索
爾吉特公司統籌策展設計,並與交通大學建築 能源實驗與電力生活美學,感受文創融合綠能科
所教授龔書章、台灣創意中心(今台灣設計研 技的電幻魅力。 l

104
focused activities earned D/S One first prize in 台電希望大家能一起來此探索,感受文創×綠能科技的魔
力。
the education promotion category of Global Views Taipower hopes that D/S One’s unique mix of the creative/cultural
Monthly’s annual Corporate Social Responsibility with green energy technology will catch on with the public.

Awards in 2021.
Because D/S One is Taiwan’s first renewable en-
ergy exhibition space and Taipower’s first branded
venue, the company asked Cogitoimage for help
with project planning. Taipower also worked with
a number of designers and media companies, “Taipower hopes that the D/S brand will be-
including Professor Kung Shu-chang from Na- come Taiwan’s premier renewable energy educa-
tional Chiao Tung University’s Graduate Institute tion center, introducing environmental thinking
of Architecture, and Tony K.M. Chang, a former and the concept of energy transition to help build
CEO of the Taiwan Design Center (now the Tai- a sustainable future for our island.” Smiling,
wan Design Research Institute). D/S One’s many Yuan adds that the nearer-term hope is that Tai-
international accolades, including a 2020 Red Dot power D/S One becomes a favorite leisure-time
Design Award, a 2020 MUSE Award (Onsite Dig- destination, one t hat allows people to jointly
ital Experience) from the American Alliance of explore renewable energy experiments and the
Museums, and a 2021 MUSE Design Award (Exhi- aesthetics of an electrified life, and charms them
bition Experience, Experiential & Immersive) from wit h its merging of t he creat ive and cult ural
International Awards Associate (IAA), have given with green energy technology. l
Taipower the confidence to follow up with a D/S (Yang Ling-yuan/photos by Kent Chuang/
Two and perhaps even a D/S Three. tr. by Scott Williams)

105
產業新創 ENTREPRENEURSHIP

打開耳朵,聆聽多重宇宙
聲 音 經 濟 方 興 未 艾

Open Your Ears to the Multiverse:


The Age of the Audio Economy is Here

文•蘇俐穎 圖•林旻萱 
版面設計•蕭郢岑

106
在電影《真愛每一天》裡,男女主角因為共享了餐廳
裡的一場「無光晚餐」,才開啟了對彼此的好感。
在凡事訴諸影像的年代,閉上眼睛,沒有了視覺
的輔助,純粹且帶有感情的聲音,召喚人們
的感性,與視覺截然不同的溝通模式,引
發了新一波的科技革命,新的商機崛
起,人類從「螢幕」前全面解放。

I n an era in which we rely on


images for everything, the
idea of encouraging people to
close their eyes and listen
to the pure emotion of the
human voice, a mode of
communication com-
pletely different from
the more visually ori-
ented ones, is giving
rise to a new wave
of t e c h n o l og i c al
innovation.

鏡好聽總監徐淑卿,
邀請大家打開耳朵,
聆聽多重宇宙。
Hsu Shu-ching, director
of Mirror Voice, invites
everyone to open their
ears to the sounds of the
multiverse.

107
出於個人需求,還在哈佛大學就讀時的祖克柏, 至今已成功拓展到海外的Goodnight,在日、韓、
就設計出社群軟體Facebook。2015年在台灣,還是 泰等國家均有上架,下載次數累積高達1,100萬次。
學生的楊萬皇、黃建翰,同樣出於交友需求,編寫 去(2021)年台灣疫情嚴峻期間,用戶活躍度增
了聲音社交軟體「Goodnight」,憑著用戶的口耳相 加,「就連平常不太會使用這類社交軟體的人,也
傳,短短9個月內寫下了30萬次的下載紀錄。 會開始嘗試。」黃建翰觀察。
2020年,全球無一倖免的Covid-19疫情,在家工 另外,台灣最大的Podcast平台「SoundOn聲
作、封城、隔離,現實生活的疏離,促使人們從科 浪」(以下簡稱SoundOn)也有客觀數據可佐證。
技工具尋求慰藉,不論是語音社群Clubhouse捲起的 SoundOn創辦於2019年,初期節目數量不過300多
全球性浪潮,聲音節目自媒體Podcast的扶搖直上, 檔,發展至今有萬檔節目在線,根據SoundOn提出
乃至Goodnight,都蓬勃成長。 「2021年度聲音經濟報告書」,2021年疫情爆發到
降至二級之間,Podcaster的
創作時數明顯增加,但在疫
情趨緩以後,不重複下載數
成長年增高達200%,完全呼
應了同樣在SoundOn擔任執
行長的黃建翰的話:「疫情
完全加速與催化了聲音經濟
的起飛。」

連GAFA也爭相投入的「聲
音市場」

倘若追本溯源,疫情並不
是聲音經濟崛起的主因。日
本Podcast平台「Voicy」創辦
人緒方憲太郎便分析:語音
科技的進步(人聲辨識、聲
紋辨識等技術)、聆聽裝置
的普及(智慧喇叭、無線耳
機)與聆聽習慣的擴大,才
是引動這一波聲音經濟崛起
的最大理由。
歐美的聲音市場起步最
早,據全球市場調查機構
Statista的統計,2019年美
國Podcast聽眾約有7,500萬

Goodnight創辦人之一、SoundOn
執行長黃建翰。
Andy Huang, one of the founders of
Goodnight and CEO of SoundOn.

108
SoundOn在疫情期間創作
者與使用者均顯著成長,
象徵著耳朵經濟的新時代
來臨。
SoundOn, which has
experienced a boom in both
creators and users during
the pandemic, has become
a symbol of the arrival of the
age of the audio economy.

In 2015 two students in Taiwan, Howard Yang and at a rate of 200% per year. Andy Huang, who is CEO of
Andy Huang, wrote the voice-centric social network- SoundOn, says, “The pandemic has absolutely accelerated
ing app “Goodnight,” aimed at helping people find and catalyzed the take-off of the audio economy.”
new friends. Through word of mouth alone, in just nine But ultimately, the true reason for the rise of the “audio
months they got some 300,000 downloads. economy” is not simply the pandemic. Kentaro Ogata,
In 2020, as the Covid-19 pandemic raged across the founder of Japanese podcast platform Voicy, has offered
world, closing down cities and alienating people from one this analysis: Advancements in voice technologies (speech
another as they moved toward working from home, more recognition, voiceprint recognition, etc.), the populariza-
and more people turned to technology for comfort, from tion of listening devices like smart speakers and wireless
the voice-only social networking tools Clubhouse and headphones, and the expansion of listening habits, are the
Goodnight to audio programming in the form of podcasts. biggest factors driving the growth of the audio economy.
Goodnight, which has successfully expanded into Seeing the potential for development in the audio mar-
overseas markets including Japan, South Korea and ket, the major US tech giants Google, Amazon, Meta, and
Thailand, has now accumulated a hopping 11 million Apple have all made moves, while Microsoft, Twitter, Spo-
downloads. In Taiwan alone, during the Covid outbreak tify, and others have also turned their attention to podcasts
in 2021, user activity blew up: “Even people who don’t and online voice communities.
usually use this kind of social software began giving it a Reading with your ears
try,” observes Andy Huang. Taiwan, where about 40,000 new books are published
Taiwan’s largest podcast platform, SoundOn, has data each year, has been a little slower in taking up audio offer-
that supports Huang’s observation. Founded in 2019, ings than elsewhere, mainly because continental markets
SoundOn began with just 300 podcast episodes, but today like Europe and the United States, due to their vast territory,
it hosts over 10,000. According to the 2021 Sound Economy have people commuting and traveling long hours more fre-
Report, released by SoundOn, between the start of the quently, providing greater demand for audio products that
outbreak in Taiwan in May 2021 and the lowering of the can be consumed with the ears rather than the eyes.
alert level to Level 2 in July, the number of hours of pod- “Another reason is that Taiwan’s publishing industry
casts created shot up, and even after the outbreak eased, is dominated by small and medium-sized enterprises,”
unique downloads from the platform continued to grow opines Hsu Shu-ching of Mirror Voice. Paper, digital, and

109
主打聲音產品的遍路文化,
為台灣聲音經濟揭開序幕。
On the Road, which focuses
on audio products, kicked off
the audio economy in Taiwan.

人,2024年上看1億6,400萬人;美國互動廣告協會 書不相上下,加上民眾對有聲書消費習慣尚未養
(IAB)提出的數據也指出,2023年Podcast市場規模 成,造成多數出版社裹足不前。
將達到20億美元。 2019年「遍路文化」率先成立,為台灣有聲書市
聲音產品另一引人矚目的品項是有聲書。美國有 場拉開序幕。遍路文化執行長吳巧亮在出版產業耕
聲書出版商協會(APA)的年度報告指出,2021年 耘十多年,個性相當活潑的她,曾跨界到影視IP產
美國有聲書市場營業額已來到16億美元,連續十年 業從事行銷,但一身出版魂的她對於內容產業無法
達兩位數的成長,超越較早發展的電子書市佔率將 忘情,離開行銷工作後,獲得漫遊者文化總編輯李
是指日可待。Deloitte管理顧問公司的調查也顯示, 亞南的支持,加入專攻聲音內容的遍路文化。
五年來英國有聲書市場增長將近一倍。 吳巧亮直言,會著手開發聲音產品,不外乎看好
看中聲音市場的未來發展性,美國四大科技 台灣的出版能量。台灣出版社超過千家,每年推上
巨擘GAFA(Google、Amazon、Facebook/Meta、 萬本新書,然而除了長銷型商品,多數出版品上架
Apple),還有微軟、Twitter、Spotify等公司,均已 三個月以後就會從架上消失,擠上排行榜的終歸是
參與戰場。 少數,「我們手上有一堆很好的內容,為什麼要讓
它死掉?」她熱忱地提出疑問。
「聽」的閱讀:出版的第三勢力崛起
遍路的產品共有三大類,包括線上課程,依據紙
每年新書出版量約四萬本的台灣,卻在有聲產 本書逐字錄製的有聲書,還有酌量加入音效,請編
品的普及上稍慢一步,主要是因為空間不比歐美等 劇從經典文本重新撰寫的有聲劇。吳巧亮分析,紙
大陸型國家,因幅員遼闊,人們通勤、移動時間較 本書與聲音產品的編輯邏輯並沒有相差太多,「如
長,不佔眼球的聲音產品自有其廣大需求。 何設計課程,將最精華、有趣的知識挖掘出來,
「另也是因台灣出版業大多以中小企業為多。」 提綱挈領重新排列組合,這都是編輯一貫會做的
鏡好聽總監徐淑卿認為。「紙、電、有聲」,是目 事。」然她提到:「在對產品的理解與技術層面而
前出版業的三大主力商品,從紙本書轉為電子書, 言,兩者卻相差非常多。」
製作門檻相較低,但轉譯為有聲書,必須就文本重 為了打通跨領域「轉譯」的各個關節,後來成立
新改稿、配音、混音、剪輯,加上設計、上架、行 隸屬於「鏡傳媒」旗下的聲音平台「鏡好聽」,籌
銷,不但成本高,耗費的心力與重新出版一本紙本 備初期就大刀闊斧地打造了五間錄音室,也成立鏡

110
audio are the three main axes of the publishing in-
dustry at present. The transition from paper books
to e-books is a relatively simple one, but going from
print to audio involves revising, recording, mixing,
and editing along with new forms of design, mer-
chandising, and marketing, and all of this is not
only expensive but also takes a similar amount of
effort to republishing a paper book. In addition, the
Taiwanese public has not yet gotten into the habit
of consuming audiobooks, which has caused most
publishers to hold back.
In 2019, On the Road became the first audiobook
有聲書的錄製規格高,幾乎等同重新出版一本新書。圖為遍路文化
publisher to be established in Taiwan, kicking off
邀請配音員宋昱璁(右)、宋克軍(左)等人錄製《北歐神話三部
the domestic market. 曲》。(遍路文化提供)
Its CEO, Vivi Wu, says that she started developing Production values for audiobooks are high, to the point that an adaptation
involves almost as much work as publishing a whole new book. In this
audio products simply because she was optimistic picture, we see voice actors Song Kejun (left) and Sung Yu Tsung (right)
recording The Norse Mythology Trilogy. (courtesy of On the Road)
about the energy of the publishing sector in Taiwan.
There are more than 1,000 publishing houses in
Taiwan and about 40,000 new books are published
every year. However, except for long-selling prod-
ucts, most disappear from the shelves after just three In order to open up the various nodes involved in this
months. “We have all this great content on our hands; why multidisciplinary “translation” effort, Mirror Media’s au-
should we just let it die?” she asks passionately. dio platform Mirror Voice took the bold step of installing
In Wu’s analysis, editing audio products is not too dif- five recording studios early on, along with setting up Mir-
ferent from editing print books. “Designing lessons, dig- ror Voice Academy to recruit and train voice talent and
ging up the most essential and interesting knowledge, and create the first one-stop-shop in the industry in Taiwan.
rearranging and organizing it is what editors have always The establishment of Mirror Voice was the brainchild
done.” However, she adds, “In terms of product under- of Mirror Fiction CEO Tung Cheng-yu. Tung was already
standing and technology, the two are very different.” an enthusiastic consumer of audio products, and so

111
好聽學院,親自訓練、招募專業的聲音主播,一條 低錄製門檻,且多為免費內容;有聲書製作成本
龍的生產模式更是業界首見。 高,價格比紙本書更高的狀況更時有可見,如此情
鏡好聽的成立,起因於鏡文學總經理董成瑜,本 況讓業者更加戮力在品質的提升,希望有聲書與以
身即是重度聲音產品使用者的她,市場敏銳度相當 閒談漫談為主的Podcast作出區隔。
高。因為有集團資源的強力後援,除了新聞媒體平 吳巧亮思考人類聲音傳播的發展脈絡,以口傳神
台上蒐羅到的人物故事,另外還有自家出版社「鏡 話為題,邀請編劇重新編寫有聲劇《北歐神話三部
文學」以及旗下作家的作品可供互用,豐富的資源 曲》,「神話就是以口述為起點,做有聲書不做神
讓鏡好聽一開台,除了單本付費的「單購制」以 話實在有點奇怪。」她特地大手筆請來聲音導演與
外,還推出可暢聽的「訂閱制」,喊出要當「華文 十來位聲音演員參與,「我想做到一個最高規格,
聲音內容的Netflix」的鏡好聽,雄心不容小覷。 訂定出一個沒有任何人能超越的標準。」
徐淑卿則舉出英國社會學家詹姆斯•哈金所寫的
內容為王的文本轉譯
《小眾,其實不小》一書說明,分眾市場的時代,想
技術層面的問題以外,吳巧亮另外表示:「最困 要抓取目標客群,除了提升內容品質以外,還有精準
難的是,無從想像目標客群到底在哪裡?」賣了幾 產品定位。鏡好聽規劃出三條線:「知識普及」、
本書以後,團隊終於發現,買單有聲書的聽眾大多 「觀念溝通」與「社會探照」,從選題到企劃都務求
是從紙本書來的讀者,「產品定位貼著紙本書走, 紮實精緻,她說:「做最好的內容,讓聽眾值得花時
所以基本上還是內容為大。」 間去聆聽。」以好品質站穩第一步,未來的銷售無須
既然內容才是消費者買單的理由,相較Podcast的 畫地自限在本地,甚至可能進軍海外。

鏡好聽平台上,不僅有自家推出產品,也邀請其他出版社的有聲產品上架。(鏡好聽提供)
As well as their own audio products, Mirror Voice also host other publishers’ content on their platform. (courtesy of Mirror Voice)

112
採用一條龍生產模式的鏡好聽,
開設鏡好聽學院培養聲音主播。
(鏡好聽提供)
As part of their effort to become an
all-in-one audio producer, Mirror Voice
established Mirror Voice Academy
to train voice actors and program
hosts. (courtesy of Mirror Voice)

leveraging her keen market acumen and the resources participate. “I wanted to really reach a high level, to set a
of the Mirror group—including the ability of their news standard that no one could surpass.”
platform to generate content for podcasts, and the ex- Hsu Shu-ching cites the book Niche: Why the Market No
isting array of works and writers published by Mirror Longer Favours the Mainstream, written by British journalist
Fiction—she was able to create a synergy that quickly and social analyst James Harkin, to illustrate that in the
made Mirror Voice, with both subscription and purchase era of segmented markets, to accurately capture a target
models, a promising prospect for becoming the Netflix of customer group you need not only quality content, but
Chinese-language audio content. also precise targeting. “You need to make the best content,
Content is king content that’s worth the audience spending their time
Aside from technical problems, Vivi Wu says, “The listening to.” Having set off on a firm footing with a focus
most difficult thing was that we just had no idea where on quality, Mirror Voice’s future sales need not be limited
our target audience was.” After selling a few titles, the to the local market but could even expand internationally.
team finally found that most of the listeners who paid The age of integration
for audiobooks were readers coming over from hardcopy In the fourth quarter of 2019, local e-book platform
books. “The product positioning is close to that of printed Readmoo launched into the audiobook world, followed
books, so basically the content is still the main thing.” soon by fellow e-book platform Kobo. In just two or three
However, while the cost of making a podcast is quite years since, a number of online platforms for audio prod-
low, and most are distributed free, audiobooks are much ucts have been established. By the fourth quarter of 2021,
more expensive to produce, making them often more ex- Taiwan’s largest online bookstore, Books.com.tw, which
pensive than their hardcopy counterparts. That being so, is Taiwan’s most popular e-commerce venture among
those in the industry aim to elevate the quality to help book lovers, added audiobooks to its e-book offering,
differentiate them from podcasts, which are usually just in a move that is seen as an important milestone in the
some people chatting. development of the audio market.
Thinking about the historical development of voice On the publishing side, large publishing houses
media, Wu was inspired to invite a scriptwriter to create such as Cité Publishing and China Times Publishing
the audio drama The Norse Mythology Trilogy. “Myths and have taken the plunge into producing audiobooks. The
sagas are based on oral tradition, so doing audiobooks number of products and the obvious growth in the con-
without doing mythology would just be weird.” She spe- sumer market led Readmoo to dub 2021 “The Year of the
cially invited a voice director and a dozen voice actors to Audiobook.”

113
Podcast重度使用者的他表示:「有時就是聽一種陪
東風已吹,邁步平台整合時代 伴的感覺。」聲音產品更讓一心多用成為可能,對
2019年第四季,本土電子書平台「讀墨」 步調緊湊的現代人來說更是便捷,「不能說是另外
(Readmoo)率先加入有聲書服務,緊接著另一電 創造出一個平行時空,但讓你一天增加個四、五個
子書平台「Kobo」宣布進軍。短短兩、三年,各種 小時,絕對沒有問題。」徐淑卿提出絕妙比喻。聲
聲音產品線上平台紛紛成立,「遍路文化」與「鏡 音產品還能跨越族群限制,除了嫻熟於穿戴式科技
好聽」以外,還有隸屬中華電信的智趣王數位科技 的年輕消費者買單,也友善眼睛老花的銀髮族群,
公司推出的「i聽聽」,聯合報系也推出「一刻鯨 市場潛力廣大。
選」、城邦出版集團創辦的「自慢塾」、遠見天下 再限縮到有聲書的範圍來看,人聲的朗誦具有
文化的「1號課堂」、「孜孜線上聽」等。2021年第 「再創作」的獨特性。遍路文化邀請知名配音員蕭
四季,被視為集結了最多愛書人的電商、台灣最大 定睿朗讀暢銷翻譯小說《莫斯科紳士》;鏡好聽邀
網路書店「博客來」宣告加入電子書服務項目,被 請劇場導演蔡柏璋朗讀陳思宏的《鬼地方》;金馬
視為聲音市場發展的重要指標。 影帝莫子儀朗讀《余英時回憶錄》;或者前文化部
在出版端,城邦、時報等大型出版社也陸續投 部長鄭麗君受聯經出版社之邀,親自翻譯朗讀《小
入製作有聲書,由於產品數量與消費市場的顯著 王子》等,都是經由成功的聲音轉譯,為內容再次
成長,讀墨喊出2021年是「有聲書元年」。台灣 創造出商機。
從紙本書到電子書走得較久,「有了電子書的先 有聲書真的如此迷人?美國作家山姆•史蒂芬
例,我想這一回出版社動得不會太慢。」徐淑卿 森曾為攝影家尤金•史密斯撰寫個人傳記《浮與
相當樂觀。 沉》,書中記載了一件軼事:因為寫書,他注意到
了尤金•史密斯所收藏的大量有聲書、詩集錄音
讓作家「再活一次」的朗誦
帶,開始聆聽並深深著迷於有聲書的他,喟嘆正在
從「無聲」到「有聲」,聲音產品鵲起意味著人 執筆的自己,居然沒辦法像朗讀者那樣,用文字
類從「眼球經濟」進入到「耳朵經濟」的時代。以 「活出史密斯的攝影」。
影視為代表的視覺產品藉由爭奪消費者的注意力來 文本如樂譜,人聲的誦讀就像演奏家的演繹,讓
取得商機,然而聲音可以無痕融入人們各種日常情 無機的文字賦予了靈性的神采。親炙聲音時代以降
境,從通勤、洗澡、做家事,甚至是睡前。 的我們,何其有幸,打開耳朵,隨時都能徜徉多重
稱說「配上耳機,心流就會開始」的黃建翰, 宇宙,直接經歷一場超越時間空間的會晤。 l

鏡好聽的產品內容定位精準,以紮實的內容搶攻聽眾耳朵。(鏡好聽提供)
Mirror Voice’s products are targeted squarely at their audience’s ears, bringing them the content they want. (courtesy of Mirror Voice)

114
Golden Horse Best Leading Actor Mo Tzu-yi voiced the audiobook of Yu Ying-shih's memoir.(鏡好聽提供 courtesy of Mirror Voice)

Reviving writers As far as audiobooks are concerned, hearing a story told


The rise of such audio products marks a nascent transi- by someone else has its own unique “recreative” charm. On
tion from the “eyeball economy” to the “audio economy.” the Road once invited well-known voice actor Dean Hsiao
The former is represented by film and television and their to read the translation of the best-selling novel A Gentleman
competition for the attention of consumers. However, the in Moscow, while Mirror Media has had theater director Tsai
latter can be seamlessly integrated into people’s everyday Pao-chang read Kevin Chen’s Ghost Town and Golden Horse
lives, from commuting or doing housework to bathing or Best Leading Actor Mo Tzu-yi read the memoir of historian
even lying in bed before one goes to sleep. “I just put on Yu Ying-shih. Even former culture minister Cheng Li-chun
my headphones and I’m in the zone,” says Andy Huang, was invited by Linking Books to read her own new trans-
who is an avid podcast listener. “Sometimes, listening is lation of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s The Little Prince. With
just about a feeling of companionship.” In particular, the such accomplished voices behind them, such works create a
way audio products make it possible to multitask makes whole new level of business opportunity.
them better suited for busy modern people. “I wouldn’t A text is like a musical score and the human voice like
say it creates a parallel space–time, but it absolutely can an instrument, with each performer’s particular interpret-
get you an extra four or five hours in your day, no prob- ation imbuing it with a certain intangible spirit. And so, in
lem,” says Hsu, weaving a wonderful metaphor. Audio this age of sound, we are lucky enough to be able to roam
products also don’t discriminate—you’ll have hip young the multiverse at will, opening portals across space and
consumers who love their wearable tech paying for them, time, so long as we just open our ears. l
but they are also totally friendly to elderly people with (Lynn Su/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
failing eyesight. The potential market is enormous. tr. by Geof Aberhart)

115
產業新創 ENTREPRENEURSHIP

面對國際市場對低碳排、低冷媒的需求,哈伯研發使用環保冷媒的冷卻產品。
With international markets demanding products that generate lower carbon

台灣工具機
emissions and use less refrigerant, Habor Precision Inc. has developed cooling
systems that use environmentally friendly refrigerants.

放眼未來
Energy Saving and Net Zero
節能減碳進行式
—The Future of Taiwan’s
Machine Tool Industry


•陳 俊良
群芳
 圖• 計•劉
林旻萱 版面設

116
還記得Covid-19疫情爆發後,台灣便組成口罩
國家隊,工具機產業迅速動員,組出一台台口罩 F aced with waves of change such as the trend to-
ward intelligent manufacturing and the drive for
net zero carbon emissions, Taiwan, the world’s fifth
生產設備,不僅守護人們健康,也展現台灣工具
largest exporter of machine tools, has organized a
機產業鏈完整、精密機械高度發展等優勢。
carbon neutrality alliance and is actively pursuing
面對一波波智慧製造、淨零排放等趨勢,身 carbon reduction by developing energy-saving tech-
為全球前五大工具機出口國的台灣,籌組碳中和 nology for the spindle drives of advanced machine
聯盟、研發高階工具機主軸驅動器減碳技術、開 tools, as well as smart energy-saving products.
發智慧節能產品等,積極尋找減碳解方。
As you head off to work in the morning, you pop
一早搭乘捷運或高鐵通勤,到站後轉乘公共自 into a convenience store and pick up a coffee and some
行車,路上想買杯咖啡提神,於是走進超商,自 breakfast. This is a daily routine for many people. But
have you ever wondered where such a convenient life-
動門開啟,冷氣吹來,順道帶上一份早餐……,
style originates?
這是多數人習以為常的一日開場。生在超商林
Omnipresent machine tools
立,大眾運輸發達的現代,你可曾想過這些便利
Almost everything around us in daily life, from air-
生活自何而來? planes to air conditioning to packaged food, is produced
by machines. And for all machinery, including textile
工具機無所不在
machines, plastic injection molding machines, and
舉凡飛機、汽車、火箭、冷氣、洗衣機、健
身器材、包裝食品、服飾等,圍繞在生活周遭
的一切,幾乎都是由機械生產而來。而所有的
機械,例如紡織機、塑膠射出機、半導體製程
中使用的機械手臂及自動化設備等,這些機械
的零組件就是工具機製造的,「所以我們稱工
具機為母機,用來做機器的機器。」工研院智
慧機械科技中心組長麥朝創說明工具機為何稱
作「機械之母」。
麥朝創表示,機械業是古老的產業,全世界
的工業革命就是從機械業開始。18世紀蒸汽機
的發明,為第一次的工業革命揭開序幕,有了
蒸汽機作為動力來源,應用於各種工業。「尤
其精密機械的發展,更是衡量一個國家工業水
準的指標。」設備是生產製造的源頭,例如要
發展太陽光電,必須有切割太陽能板的機械;
要做半導體晶片,就要有能生產晶圓的精密設
備。要是沒有設備,即使是台灣的護國神山台
積電也無法進行先進的製程。所以工具機的發
展是工業重要的基石。
而台灣的機械工業約從1940年代起步,歷經
1950年代的民生輕工業機械,1960年代發展外 因為有工具機打造生產設備,一片片守護健康的醫療口罩,才
得以成型。(金宏澔攝)
銷,奠定技術基礎,到了1990年代,台灣的工具 Production machinery built with the help of machine tools is
used to manufacture life-saving surgical masks.
機產業逐漸由代工轉為自創品牌。台灣的工具機 (photo by Chin Hung-hao)

117
深知淨零的刻不容緩,許文憲帶領哈伯朝智慧節能方向前進,讓台灣的冷卻機站穩國際市場。
Habor Hsu, who well understands the urgency of achieving net zero carbon emissions, has led Habor Precision toward smart energy-
saving technology, enabling Taiwan to hold its own in the global market for cooling systems.

產業九成以上是中小企業,其機動性及研發能力 此,工研院在過去十年,費了許多心力研發高階
皆十分優秀,經過多次的轉型與技術升級,台灣 的國產電腦數值控制器(CNC),並成功技轉,
的工具機早已行銷國際,並佔有一席之地。像是 以期能協助廠商開發客製化的工具機,幫助產業
全球第三大工具機集團便是台灣的友嘉集團,美 邁向工業4.0。麥朝創表示,「目前台灣的CNC年
國波音公司、法拉利、BMW等,都是友嘉的主 產量大約是8∼10萬套,年產值超過30∼50億台
要客戶群,成了名副其實的隱形冠軍。 幣。」為產業注入不少活水。
這幾年台灣的工具機產業面對國際一波波自
技術研發,布局未來
動化、大數據、物聯網等智慧製造的浪潮,尚
一台工具機要運作,除了機械的實體,還需 在浪中打滾,方站穩腳步,卻緊接著迎來淨零
要關鍵的核心零組件──控制器。素有工具機大 排放、碳中和等氣候變遷議題。台灣工具機暨
腦之稱的控制器,就好比是腦幹與神經,讓機 零組件工業同業公會理事長許文憲表示,不論
台能依照程式的指令來控制作業流程,讓生產 談的是工業4.0的智慧製造,或是碳中和,都必
製程更為精準。在過去,全球的控制器主要由 須一步一步來,「要做到工業4.0,要先有自動
日本、德國主導,麥朝創以汽車比喻早期台灣 化,再來大數據收集,走過這段歷程才有辦法
業界的狀況,就像是會製造汽車,卻沒有掌握 去做碳中和。」
引擎的技術。 許文憲建議,一台工具機包含了眾多零件,必
然而在講求智慧製造的物聯網時代,擁有控 須由產官學合作,將設備展開盤點,分析各環節
制器的自主權,才能增加工具機的附加價值。因 的碳排放,公會再協助將資訊提供給產業,去思

118
automated equipment used in semiconductor manu- change and the drive for net zero carbon emissions.
facturing, the components they are built from are made Habor Hsu, chairman of the Taiwan Machine Tool and
by machine tools. “That’s why we call machine tools ‘the Accessory Builders’ Association (TMBA) and president
mothers of machines,’ because they are machines that of Habor Precision Inc., an internationally prominent
make machines,” says Christopher Mai, a division head maker of cooling systems, stresses that firms need to
at the Intelligent Machinery Technology Center of the approach both topics one step at a time.
Industrial Technology Research Institute (ITRI). Hsu notes that each machine tool includes countless
Mai says that the machinery industry is an old and parts, and the industry must collaborate with govern-
venerable one, and that the global industrial revolution ment and academia to analyze the carbon emissions
started from the machinery industry. “Furthermore, at each stage of their manufacture and of the machine
the development of precision machinery is an indica- tool’s operation. Then the association must provide this
tor of a country’s industrial level.” Machinery is the information to firms so that they can consider how to
wellspring of production and manufacturing. For ex- make further progress towards optimization. Mean-
ample, if you want to develop solar power you must while in June 2022 ITRI signed an agreement with Feng
have machinery that can cut solar panels. In terms of Chia University to form the Alliance for Carbon Neu-
semiconductors, without the right machinery firms like trality, to assist machine tool makers to conduct inven-
the Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Company tories of greenhouse gas emissions and then, with the
could not carry out advanced manufacturing processes. help of big data analysis, implement smart job schedul-
Therefore the development of machine tools is an im- ing and resource allocation so that machine tools can be
portant foundation for all industry. operated in a more energy-saving way.
In Taiwan, more than 90% of companies in the ma- The carbon reduction technology developed by ITRI
chine tool industry are small and medium-sized enter- for advanced machine tool spindle drives can reduce
prises (SMEs). They have outstanding flexibility and energy use by 70% compared to traditional drives. It
R&D capabilities, assuring them a place in the inter- conforms to the EU’s standard for high energy efficiency,
national market. For example, the Fair Friend Group, under category IE2. With the EU launching trial im-
the world’s third largest machine tool conglomerate, in- plementation of its carbon tax next year, this technology
cludes Boeing and BMW among its customers, making offers a solution for energy saving and carbon reduction.
the Taiwan-based group a genuine “hidden champion.”
Technology R&D for the future
For a modern machine tool to function, besides the
machine itself another critical core part is needed: a
controller—the “brains” of a machine tool, which con-
trols its operations through instructions from software
programs. In the past, the global market for controllers
was dominated by Japan and Germany.
Only with autonomy in the area of controllers can one
increase the value-added of machine tools. This is why
ITRI invested so much effort into R&D for domestically
produced advanced computer numerical control (CNC)
units and successfully transferred this technology to
businesses, in hopes that they can develop machine tools
that are more closely customizable to clients’ needs.
Over the past several years Taiwan’s machine tool 工研院研發的高階工具機主軸驅動器減碳技術,是能與國際接
軌的節能減碳解決方案。(工研院提供)
industry has been engaging with the trend toward The carbon reduction technology for advanced machine tool
intelligent manufacturing, and has gradually found spindle drives developed by the Industrial Technology Research
Institute offers an energy-saving solution in line with global
its feet. This was soon followed by the issue of climate trends. (courtesy of ITRI)

119
精密(以下簡稱哈伯),早在2017年就面對了一
波衝擊。
「過年時接到國外的電話,說機器都卡在海
上進不去,因為我們沒有繳稅。」說起那次的震
撼教育,哈伯總經理特助許雅涵,至今記憶猶
新。當時還摸不著頭緒的她,年假期間與國外行
銷部經理吳斐然奔波聯繫,才明白原來是歐盟的
含氟氣體法規(F-gas Regulation)要求申報含氟
氣體,並須繳交類似稅收的費用,而冷卻機裡經
常會使用到的含氟冷媒,便首當其衝,挨了第一
槍。同年哈伯在國內工具機展會裡,便與來訪的
產業界呼籲,國外已開始因應氣候變遷徵收費用
的第一手情報,但當時卻少有人認真看待。
身兼同業公會理事長、哈伯精密董事長的許
文憲表示,長年耕耘歐洲與日本工具機市場,在
2015年時就陸續有國際客戶提出產品減碳的需
求,「所以我們比較早就意識到,碳中和、節能
減碳會是未來的趨勢。」於是哈伯先換掉廠區裡
耗能的冷氣與照明設備,推行無紙化,也在廠區
裡大量種樹,甚至連周圍公有的行道樹也自費請
縱使外觀看不到冷卻機的蹤影,但不論是金屬加工主軸、控制 專人進行修剪管理。即使溽暑到訪,還是能因為
器等,都需要冷卻機來調控,維持溫度的穩定,機器才能如常
自然環境調節了空氣,而感受到溫度的下降。
運作。
Though industrial cooling systems are not easy to recognize, 「因為一棵樹等於40噸的冷卻能力,所以要多種
many kinds of machinery, such as the drive spindles and
controllers of a machining center, need cooling to maintain 樹啊。」許文憲自豪地說。
stable temperatures in order to function properly.

共組聯盟打國際盃

越講求高精度、高效率的設備,越需要冷卻機
考進一步的優化。而工研院則與大學合作,簽署 的溫度調控,例如半導體、航太、3C產業等。
「逢甲大學產學研碳中和聯盟」,協助工具機業 精密機械的冷卻機好比是汽車的水箱,當溫度過
者碳盤查,了解機器的耗能狀況,進一步做到智 高,沒有水箱的散熱就動彈不得,所以製程管理
慧排程,讓工具機在大數據的分析下,用起來更 就需要冷卻機來控制設備的溫度穩定。
節能省電,幫助產業對症下藥。 面對刻不容緩的氣候變遷,以及國際市場對低
作為產業堅實的後盾,工研院研發的高階工具 碳排、低冷媒的需求,「就像哈伯名片上的標語
機主軸驅動器減碳技術,相比傳統驅動器,能減 寫著『最佳溫度,最高關懷。』我們發想產品
少七成能耗,並符合歐盟能效管制、最高級別能 時,應該要做到保護地球的動作。」吳斐然說。
源效率IE2的節能等級,明年歐盟的碳關稅試行上 於是哈伯研發使用環保冷媒、低冷媒,甚至無冷
路,這將是能與國際接軌的節能減碳解決方案。 媒的冷卻產品,還設置環境實驗室,測試產品能
順應不同國家的溫度、電流、電壓等環境變數,
碳衝擊第一排
並導入物聯網、智慧管理的設計。以獲得2022
然而歐盟對於氣候變遷採取的管制政策,並非 年台灣精品獎的智能D C變頻冷卻機為例,同時
這兩年才啟動,身為全球知名冷卻機品牌的哈伯 具備變頻控制和節能系統的設計,可透過程式遠

120
Carbon impact efficiency manufacturing equipment, the greater the
However, it is not only in the last two years that the need for cooling systems to control the temperature.
EU has launched policies to combat climate change. This applies in particular to industries such as semi-
Habor Precision felt the impact of new rules as early as conductors, aerospace, and information and communi-
2017. cations technology.
“During the Lunar New Year holiday we got a call Given the urgency of combating climate change and
from overseas saying that our coolers couldn’t clear international demand for low-carbon-emitting and
customs because we hadn’t paid our taxes,” recalls Syl- low-refrigerant products, Habor developed cooling
via Hsu, special assistant to Habor’s CEO. Baffled, she systems that use ozone-friendly refrigerants, reduced
hurriedly contacted international sales manager Fran quantities of refrigerants, or no organic refrigerants
Wu. Only then did it emerge that the problem was the at all. They have set up an environmental laboratory
European Union’s F-Gas Regulation, which requires to ensure that products can cope with the different
equipment containing fluorinated greenhouse gases environ mental conditions in various countries, as well
to be registered and a tax to be paid. Such gases are as differences in the available electrical supply. They
widely used as refrigerants in cooling systems. have also introduced designs utilizing the Internet of
Habor Hsu says that after Habor Precision had been Things and smart device management. For example,
active in the European and Japanese machine tool mar- the design of the intelligent DC inverter cooler for
kets for many years, in 2015 two international clients which Habor won a Taiwan Excellence Award in 2022
in succession raised the need for products that could incorporates both an inverter control and an energy-
achieve carbon reduction. “Thus we realized fairly early saving system, and its operation can be monitored and
on that carbon reduction and energy saving would be controlled remotely by software to help customers
the trends of the future.” Habor consequently replaced achieve the goal of smart and effective management.
energy-intensive cooling and lighting equipment in its Habor Hsu states that to create products that will
own factories, began promoting paperless operations, satisfy future demands, it is not enough for his com-
and planted many trees on its factory grounds. Even pany to rely on its own efforts alone. The supply chain,
in the sweltering heat of summer, the natural cooling such as makers of compressors and refrigerants, must
effect of this vegetation provides a noticeable reduction also cooperate in their development. Every component
in temperature. must be intelligent and energy-saving, and only with
Alliances for international impact everyone working together to upgrade product perfor-
The more demand there is for high-precision, high- mance can positive results be achieved.

為開發符合國際需求的冷卻產品,哈伯
設置環境實驗室,順應不同國家的溫
度、電流、電壓進行測試。
To produce cooling systems that meet the
demands of international markets, Habor
Precision has set up an environmental
laboratory that tests products under the
climatic conditions and power supply
characteristics of different countries.

121
台灣工具機暨零組件同業公會理事長許文憲,將節能減碳視為企業經營方向,也積極與同業分享,期許工具機產業往淨零邁進。
As chairman of the Taiwan Machine Tool and Accessory Builders’ Association, Habor Hsu sees energy saving and carbon reduction as
the future direction of business operations. He proactively shares his views with his industry colleagues in hopes that the machine tool
industry can advance toward net zero carbon emissions.

端監控機器運作情況,協助客戶做到智慧效能的 Taiwan boasts outstanding capabilities in infor-


管理。 mation and communications technology (ICT) and

許文憲表示,要開發符合未來需求的產品, a comprehensive industrial chain in precision ma-


chinery. In recent years, many alliances have been
不是單憑哈伯努力就能辦到,還需要供應商的
launched within Taiwan’s machine tool industry.
合作開發,例如壓縮機、冷媒供應等,所有的
These have included a group to promote “software
零組件都必須具備智慧化與節能的能力,共同 as a service” cloud services for intelligent manu-
提升產品性能,環環相扣才得以實踐。所以哈 facturing, a cross-industry group to promote localiza-
伯會帶動供應商做工廠的環保管理,深耕台灣 tion of semiconductor equipment, and so on. They are
的許文憲,總會在各場合裡大方地分享哈伯的 bringing together the machine tool, ICT, aerospace,
國際經驗,期望產業共同精進。 and semiconductor industries as well as research in-
stitutions, and integrating the resources of industry,
台灣挾著優秀的資通訊能力、精密機械的完
government, and academia to drive industrial trans-
整產業鏈,這幾年,台灣的工具機產業推動許
formation. In the face of trends toward intelligent
多聯盟。如智慧製造SaaS雲服務聯盟、推動半導
manufacturing and net zero carbon emissions, all
體設備在地化跨產業聯盟等,集結工具機、資 these stakeholders will work together to build up the
通訊、航太、半導體、法人研究單位等,整合 reputation of Taiwan’s machine tool industry in the
產官學研的資源,帶動產業的轉型。面對智慧 international market. l
製造與淨零的趨勢,將一起在國際市場打響台 (Chen Chun-fang/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
灣工具機的名號。 l tr. by Phil Newell)

122
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畫說成語
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Chinese Sayings Told in Pictures

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When West Meets East: International Sinology and Sinologists

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Stories of Chinese Herbal Medicine

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Embrace Taiwan 100 Images of Contemporary Taiwan

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Taiwan Revealed 100 Images of Contemporary Taiwan (2)

弦歌不輟──台灣戲曲故事
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Hold that Note!—Stories from Taiwan's Stage

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Call of the Wild—Taiwan's Natural World

台灣民俗筆記
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Shindigs and Solemnity in Taiwan

台灣青春紀事
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Days of Being Wild: Youth Culture in Taiwan

台灣好滋味
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A Taste of Taiwan

心南向.一家人
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Bonds of Friendship, Bonds of Love—Taiwan and Southeast Asia

台灣意象
平裝 Paperback US$20 本
Taiwan in the Mind's Eye: Stories and Images of Taiwan

美.台灣:人文攝像集
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Ilha Formofa!—The Beautiful Isle!

天使傳愛:天主教在台灣
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Angels of Love: Catholicism in Taiwan

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