Taiwan Panorama 2021 Aug

AUG.
2021 中英文北美版
台灣人，真好！
Part II
中華民國一一〇年八月　第四六卷第八期
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US$5 Vol. 46 No. 8 August 2021
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湛藍世界
An Azure World
圖／文•林旻萱　版面設計•馬英凱
屏
東後壁湖位於墾丁國家公園
保護區內，因海域地形平 T he popular diving spot of Houbihu in Ping
tung County is located within Kenting Na
tional Park. The rich marine ecology of the flat,
淺，海洋生態豐富，吸引世界各地
愛好潛水的民眾，潛進這片湛藍的 shallow seabed attracts divers from around the
世界中，欣賞美麗珊瑚礁，並與各 world to admire the coral reefs and swim among
種魚群不期而遇，感受優游在海中 schools of myriad fish species in beautiful, tranquil
的寧靜與美好。 surroundings.
(photo and text by Lin Min-hsuan/tr. by Phil Newell)
編人的
編者絮話語
為愛生根台灣
文．陳亮君
中華民國110年8月1日出版（月刊）／
中華民國65年1月1日創刊
這是來自於不同國家的成長背景、不同領此外，2020年台灣東部第一座非營利的野
出版者光華畫報雜誌社域的學習歷程，但卻都以「台灣」作為其人生動物救傷暨復健中心在台東池上成立，讓
發行人／吳釗燮
Publisher: Jaushieh Joseph WU
社長／陳銘政生歸宿的生命故事。看半導體技術專家水沼《光華》編採團隊深入台灣野生動物救護的
Director: Henry M.J. CHEN
總編輯／陳亮君
Editor-in-Chief: Ivan CHEN 仁志為了「愛」來到台灣，並協助台日電子現場，帶來第一手的訊息，還有台灣老市場
主編／曾蘭淑
Editor: Esther TSENG
文稿副主編／鄧慧純劉亭均
產業的合作發展；看獲得荷蘭藝術最高獎項的影像選集、緬甸華僑的聚集地華新街，再
Deputy Editors: Cathy TENG, Rina LIU
文字編輯／陳群芳蘇俐穎謝宜婷「皇家藝術獎」的畫家帕斯卡，如何融入台加上近年來熱門的基隆七堵瑪陵坑等第一線
Writers: CHEN Chun-fang, Lynn SU, Tina XIE
美術編輯／蕭郢岑王敬勛馬英凱
Art Editors: HSIAO Ying-tsen, Henry WANG, 灣的生活，並找到生命中的真色彩。的現場直擊與紀錄，等著您來探索與體驗。
MA Ying-kai
攝影組召集人／莊坤儒
Photographic Coordinator: Kent CHUANG
還有入籍台灣的國際知名粒子物理研究者 * * *
攝影組長／林格立
Photographic Director: Jimmy LIN 裴思達，如何看待台灣的學術環境，以及吸根據國際能源總署的預測推估，至2050年
攝影編輯／林旻萱
Photojournalist: LIN Min-hsuan
英文編輯／陳瑩潔唐樂榕倪凱駿費儒伯引他的台灣優勢又有哪些？其他諸如已經旅全球的廢太陽能板將達到9億多公噸，而台
English Editors: Audrey CHEN, Robert TAYLOR,
Phil NEWELL, Robert FOX
日文編輯／山口雪菜施家騏行過61個國家的雲端軟體運算專家田記禮，南大學綠能所的研究團隊則以「永續物命」
Japanese Editors: Yukina YAMAGUCHI,
Shila SHIH
印尼文編輯／陳德銘
選擇台灣作為他安身立命之處的緣由，和88 為理念，開發出了領先國際的完全回收系
Indonesian Editor: Temmy WIRYAWAN
越南文編輯／武秋香歲的耶穌會神父谷寒松，在台奉獻一輩子的統。讓我們一探該團隊如何利用有限的資
Vietnamese Editor: VU Thu Huong
泰文編輯／王玉雯
Thai Editor: WANG Yu-wen 精彩故事，盡在本期《光華》封面故事的報源，把廢棄垃圾變成黃金，連帶串起整條產
資深行政編輯／段蜀華
Senior Administrative Editor: DUAN Shu-hwa
社群編輯／蕭淑憶
導當中。業鏈，開闢出整體光電產業的一條新路。
Social Media Editor: Dawa HSIAO
* * * 而同樣閃耀國際的，還有2018年於清華
總監／鍾宜蓉
Marketing Director: Carianne CHUNG
業務協理／陳俊偉台灣的社會氛圍與環境制度對於新住民與大學正式發表的全球第一座無藍害「燭光
Deputy Manager: CHEN Jyun-wei
OLED」檯燈，就連美國「國際太空站」的
資訊部主任／卓宏基
Director of Information Systems: CHO Hung-chi 移工是否仍存在著不平等的現象？或是這種
綜合服務組／李淑慧
General Affairs: S.H. LEE
潛藏在檯面下的不平等，仍有意無意地透過固態照明計畫負責人George Brainard，也特地
我們自身的言行在放送？讓我們透過台灣民來台取經。「燭光OLED」到底有什麼樣的
族音樂學者、曾獲印尼宮廷親王爵位的蔡宗優勢，對於生態環境又起了什麼樣的影響，
德教授，跟我們剖析東南亞表演藝術在台灣讓清華大學材料科學工程學系教授周卓煇，
的現況與困境。帶我們一同認識這無藍害的耀眼光芒。 l
Putting Down Roots EDITOR’S NOTE
in Taiwan
I n this issue we bring you stories of peo- We bring you a first-hand report on wild- GPN: 2008000038 ISSN1991-525X
原刊名光華 Sinorama Magazine
ple from different countries and different life rescue in Taiwan from the Wild One 中華民國95年1月改為台灣光華雜誌
Taiwan Panorama
professions who have chosen to make Tai- Wildlife Hospital, which opened in 2020 in SUBSCRIPTION RATES:
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tween the Taiwanese and Japanese electron- of old markets, as well as a story on Taiwan’s Taiwan Panorama (USPS 000624) is published
ics industries; and how artist Pascal van der “Little Burma”—Huaxin Street in Zhonghe—
monthly, US$32.00 per year, by Kwang Hwa
Publishing (USA), Inc., 3731 Wilshire Blvd 104,
Graaf, a winner of the Netherlands’ Royal where many ethnic Chinese from Myanmar
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Modeling by the International Renew-
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live here; as well as what drew the well- million metric tons of photovoltaic panel 董事長：莊璧璘
總經理：殷煜琪
traveled cloud computing expert Tom Fifield waste per year. However, a research team 助理：葛崇高、廖育楷
President: P.L. CHUANG
to settle in Taiwan and make his life here. from the National University of Tainan is General Manager: YIN Yu-chi
Assistants: Thomas KOH, LIAO Yu-kai
And we tell the wonderful story of how developing a world-leading recycling system
著作權所有，本雜誌圖文非經同意不得轉載。
88-year-old Jesuit priest Fr. Luis Gutheinz to deal with these discarded solar panels. We 如欲轉載，請與本社資深行政聯絡。
如發現書頁有裝訂錯誤或污損事情，
has devoted his life to Taiwan. All of these explore how they are turning trash into gold, 請寄至本社調換。
All rights reserved. Photos and articles may not
are featured in this month’s cover story. thereby driving the development of an entire be reprinted without our permission.
If you wish to reprint any of our articles or
Do migrant workers and long-term immi- industrial chain. photographs, please contact our senior
administrative editor.
grants still encounter overt discrimination in Another “enlightening” Taiwanese inven- Damaged or misbound copies returned to us will
be gladly replaced.
Taiwanese society? Or suffer the effects of at- tion is the world’s first “candlelight OLED”
titudes that may be hidden below the surface, table lamp, which emits no blue light. Pro-
but emerge consciously or unconsciously in fessor Jou Jwo-huei of the Department of
our words and deeds? Professor Ted Tsai, an Materials Science and Engineering at Na-
ethnomusicologist who was bestowed the tional Tsing Hua University tells us about its
rank of prince in Java, helps us analyze the advantages for our health and for the natu-
current state of Southeast-Asian performance ral environment. l 本刊物印刷油墨使用環保認證大豆油墨
arts in Taiwan and the difficulties they face. (Ivan Chen/tr. by Phil Newell)
目次
CONTENTS 中華民國110年8月第46卷第8期 Vol. 46 No. 8 August 2021
封面故事 Cover Story
6
6 台灣是我的基地
雲端軟體運算專家田記禮
Taiwan Is My Base
—Cloud Computing Expert Tom Fifield
文•曾蘭淑　圖•莊坤儒
14 愛上第二故鄉
來自希臘的台灣女婿裴思達
In Love with His Second Homeland
—Physicist Stathes Paganis
文•李珊瑋　圖•林格立
22 找到生命中之所愛與所長
30
半導體技術專家水沼仁志
One Place, One Love, One Vocation
—Semiconductor Engineer Hitoshi
Mizunuma
文•曾蘭淑　圖•林格立
30 美之為美的存在
畫家帕斯卡
In Search of Life’s True Colors
—Artist Pascal van der Graaf
文•曾蘭淑　圖•莊坤儒
40 點亮樂生院的一盞燈
40
谷寒松神父
A Beacon of Light for Losheng
Sanatorium
—Father Luis Gutheinz
文•蘇俐穎　圖•谷寒松提供
編者的話來自地方的明信片
Editor’s Note Postcards from Home
2 為愛生根台灣 1 湛藍世界 50 月月好讀

Putting Down Roots in Taiwan An Azure World Variety Pages
文•陳亮君圖／文•林旻萱文•關真興、謝明勳
影像對話 Photo Essay
封面說明：
荷蘭籍的帕斯卡隨著太太楊雅雯，從澳門搬到台灣， 56 老市場新靈魂
並已歸化為台灣人。（莊坤儒攝） Old Markets, New Soul
Cover: Dutch artist Pascal van der Graaf moved with his 圖／文•林格立
wife Arwen Yang from Macau to Taiwan, where he has now
become a citizen. (photo by Kent Chuang)
全球視野 Global Outlook
66 鳴個喇叭！華新街
讓你一秒到緬甸
Mingalar Par!
Welcome to Little Burma
文•蘇俐穎　圖•林旻萱
島嶼行旅 Around Taiwan
76 讓野生動物重返山林
56
野灣野生動物醫院
Returning Animals to the Wilderness:
The WildOne Wildlife Hospital
文•陳群芳　圖•林格立
86 女巫秘境輕旅行
基隆瑪陵半日遊
Relics, Riverbeds, and Rose Gardens
—A Day Trip to Maling
文•蘇晨瑜　圖•莊坤儒
產業新創 Entrepreneurship
96 領先全球無藍害燭光OLED
76
抗藍害專家周卓煇
Leading the World in Candlelight OLED:
Safe Lighting Expert Jou Jwo-huei
文•謝宜婷　圖•林旻萱
104 光電產業的最後一片拼圖
廢太陽能板完全回收系統
The Last Piece of the PV Puzzle:
Recycling Solar Panels
文•陳群芳　圖•莊坤儒
多元族群 Communities
114 感受他們的「聲」命力
96
東南亞表演藝術在台現況與省思
Soundscapes of Immigrant Life:
Southeast-Asian Performance Art
in Taiwan
文•劉亭均　圖•林旻萱
封面故事　
COVER STORY
台灣是我的基地
雲端軟體運算專家田記禮
Taiwan Is My Base
—Cloud Computing Expert Tom Fifield
文•曾蘭淑　圖•莊坤儒　版面設計•馬英凱
澳洲籍雲端運算專家田記禮（Tom Fifield），因為參與
全球高能物理計劃，常到中研院開會，牽起了他與台灣的
緣份。愛上台灣的他，以台灣為基地，不僅入籍台灣，還
把一位離開台灣多年的女子──他的太太帶回了台灣。
A ustralian cloud computing expert Tom Fifield’s connec-

tion with Taiwan started with his involvement in a global
high-energy physics project, which required him to attend regu-
lar meetings at the Academia Sinica. Having fallen in love with
Taiwan, which he regards as his “base,” not only has he become
a Taiwanese citizen, he has even brought the woman in his life
back to her native island after many years spent overseas.
資訊 Information technology
6
田記禮在台灣愛上越野跑，他認為，越野跑有如冥想，可以全神貫注。
Fifield has fallen in love with trail racing in Taiwan. He feels that cross-country
running is like meditation, in that it can totally absorb the mind.
7
身為資訊專家，田記
禮協助政府建置「就
業金卡網站」。
As an information
technology expert, Tom
Fifield helped Taiwan’s
government set up
their Taiwan Gold Card
website.
2008年，還是澳洲墨爾本大學大四學生的田記洲墨爾本大學物理學院授予榮譽院士。
禮，第一次來到台灣，參加在中研院舉辦的大型田記禮接著又投入日本粒子物理貝爾實驗
強子對撞機（LHC）會議。（Belle experiment）的資料處理，協助設計Belle
「當時我一年有130天在各國飛來飛去開會， Ⅱ的系統。由於台灣中研院設有高能物理實驗
剛到台灣時，就覺得這個地方有點不一樣。心中室，又是L H C資料處理的亞洲Ti e r-1 中心，在
第一次有種感覺，可以住在這裡。」留著落腮 2008～2013年這六年間，因為LHC與Belle工作之
鬍，35歲的田記禮回憶說：「我從桃園機場搭巴故，再加上精於分散式系統（Distributed system）
士到捷運忠孝復興站，搭捷運到昆陽，再換搭巴運算的他，同時協助澳洲政府建置國家學術雲
士到中研院，覺得台灣交通不錯啊。」端中心NeCTAR，因而田記禮每年總會來台灣幾
「在我的老家摩寧頓半島（M o r n i n g t o n 次，認識了許多朋友，且愈來愈喜歡台灣。
Peninsula）星期天只有一班巴士，開車到主要的身為雲端運算專家，他也是O p e n S t a c k程式
城市墨爾本就要1.5個小時。但是在台灣，你站碼貢獻度排名中名列前茅的開發者。由美國太
在路邊，不用開口，只要露出稍微有點迷路的表空總署與雲端運算軟體商Rackspace合作研發的
情，就有人主動幫忙，認真地用英語為你指路。 OpenStack，是全球最廣泛應用的開源碼雲端建
沒有其他的國家給我這樣的經驗。」田記禮與台構軟體，集結來自160個國家的2,500多位志工開
灣的緣份就這樣開始了。發者，貢獻開源程式碼。當2013年田記禮接下
OpenStack基金會社群經理一職，需要協作與解決
ＩＴ奇才，愛上台灣
各國開發者在合作時所產生的爭端與衝突，當時
國小從小三跳讀小五，以資訊系統（information 住在澳洲，已經旅行過61個國家的田記禮覺得：
systems）滿分的分數推甄到澳洲墨爾本大學，田「台灣位於全球最中間」，於是決定搬到台灣
記禮在大三時，就由老師帶著他參加強子對撞機居住。
（LHC）計畫，協助處理由75個國家共同合作的田記禮2016年甚至說服OpenStack基金會，在台
高能物理學所彙整的資料與數據，他因而獲得澳灣舉辦全球首場OpenStack應用黑客松，並且得到
8
In 2008 Tom Fifield, who was then still a senior at a half to drive to the nearest major city, Melbourne. But
the University of Melbourne, came to Taiwan for the in Taiwan, you just have to stand at the side of the road
first time, to attend a conference on the Large Hadron with a slightly lost expression on your face, without say-
Collider at the Academia Sinica. ing a word, and people will come and offer help, striving
“At that time I was spending 130 days a year flying earnestly to give you directions in English. I’ve never
from country to country for meetings, but when I first had this kind of experience in any other country.” Thus
arrived in Taiwan I sensed that there was something did Fifield’s personal connection with Taiwan begin.
different about this place. For the first time I had the An IT genius in love with Taiwan
feeling ‘I could live here.’” The bearded 35-year-old Fi- Fifield, who jumped directly from third to fifth grade
field recalls: “I took a bus from Taoyuan International in primary school and was admitted to the University of
Airport to the Zhongxiao Fuxing Metro station, took Melbourne after scoring full marks in information sys-
the Metro to Kunyang, and from there took a bus to the tems, was brought into a Large Hadron Collider (LHC)
Academia Sinica. I got the feeling that Taiwan has quite project by one of his professors when he was a junior.
good transportation.” His role was to assist in handling the information and
“In my hometown, the Mornington Peninsula, there data exchanged by teams in 75 countries working co-
was only one bus on Sundays, and it took an hour and operatively in the area of high-energy physics, and this
work led to his being made an honorary fellow
of the School of Physics at the University of
Melbourne.
Fifield next took part in the data process-
ing for the Belle particle physics experiment
in Japan and helped to design the Belle II
system. Because the Academia Sinica has a
high-energy physics laboratory and is a Tier-1
center for processing LHC data, during the
six years from 2008 through 2013 Fifield came
to Taiwan several times each year to carry out
LHC and Belle work. At the same time, with
his skills in distributed system computing,
Fifield assisted the Australian government in
building the NeCTAR Research Cloud. On
his frequent trips to Taiwan, he made many
friends and grew to like the country more
with each visit.
As a cloud computing expert, Fifield is also
one of the leading OpenStack code contribu-
tors. In 2013 he took a position as community
台灣有許多美好事物，讓田記禮不會很想念
澳洲。
There are so many great things about Taiwan
that Fifield doesn’t miss Australia very much.
9
行政院協助，免費提供台灣的六位冠軍得獎者到
美國德州參加OpenStack 年度大會，這也是台灣
團隊首次登上OpenStack的國際舞台，以軟實力向
全球發聲。
田家都是台灣粉絲
2013年在一個月之內作出搬家的決定，田記禮
甚至把快要拿到澳洲永久居留證的台灣籍女朋友
黃惠慈（Joanna）帶回台灣。
一回台灣，就帶女友去台北公館吃麻辣鴨血，
「那就是他，表示他很了解台北。」雖是道地的
苗栗通宵人，五官深邃的Joanna，在台灣常被誤
認為是外籍新娘，Joanna說：「我真正喜歡上台
灣，是跟著他回來之後。」
問起相識的經過，兩人深情款款地對視著，說
起彼此的緣份。2009年，同是軟體工程師，被中
研院派駐到瑞士日內瓦的Joanna，在巴塞隆納的
一場國際會議初遇田記禮，兩人一見如故，「我
記得他當時一直問我吃飯了沒？還帶麥當勞來給
我吃。」既理性又抱著不婚主義的Joanna，被這
個誠懇的大男孩所感動。
各自回到瑞士與澳洲，每天簡訊傳情，為了
不再遠距戀愛，Joanna找到澳洲維多利亞州政府
的工作，直到2013年田記禮決定，帶著她搬到台
由於婚禮賓客來自15個國家，兩人先在故宮至善園，為賓客
灣。舉辦介紹台灣文化的活動。（田記禮提供）
2019年6月兩人結婚，由於有來自15個國家的 Because they had wedding guests coming from 15 countries, Tom
and Joanna arranged for preliminary activities at Zhishan Garden
人來參加他們的婚禮，擅長軟體的他們，先做了 in the grounds of the National Palace Museum to introduce their
guests to Taiwanese culture. (courtesy of Tom Fifield)
一個名為「我們六月十五日結婚」的網站，介紹
如何兌換新台幣、旅宿資訊等，被朋友評為「簡喜愛傳統的田記禮與黃惠慈的婚禮，遵循古禮。
（田記禮提供）
直就像是中華民國外交部的宣傳網站。」田記禮
The wedding of Tom Fifield and Joanna Huang, who both love
在婚宴當天，先在故宮至善園為賓客舉辦剪紙、 tradition, followed the old ways. (courtesy of Tom Fifield)
茶會等介紹台灣文化的活動，接著在士林夜市一
家古宅餐廳舉辦婚宴，讓來賓吃完飯可以逛夜
市。這一系列的活動，都是為了讓親友感受最棒田媽媽認為台灣是購物天堂，尤其喜歡逛家樂
的台灣。福、小北百貨，還是阿瘦皮鞋的會員。聽著自己
連田記禮的父母親都是台灣迷！身為芭蕾舞者父母親如何喜愛台灣，田記禮在一旁頻頻點頭，
的田媽媽田姍玉（Denise Fifield），有著周遊各露出會心的微笑。
國的經歷，卻說台灣是她的第二個家。「她好愛
協助就業金卡網站
台灣哦！」Joanna說起婆婆為何愛台灣，「第二
次到路易莎買咖啡，工作人員就記得她第一次點外國人留在台灣需符合簽證等相關規定。國發
的咖啡；喜歡到美容院洗頭，可以享受按摩。」會2018年推出「就業金卡」的新政策，讓在台從
10
manager at the OpenStack Foundation (now the Open
Infrastructure Foundation), where he had to coordinate
and resolve disputes between developers in various
countries. Fifield, who at that time lived in Australia
and had already travelled to 61 countries, thought that
Taiwan was the most centrally located place on the
globe, and he decided to move here.
Fans of Taiwan
It took Fifield only one month to reach this decision
in 2013, and he even brought his girlfriend—Joanna
Huang, a Taiwanese software engineer who had been
about to get her permanent residency visa in Aus-
tralia—back to her native country.
Soon after they relocated to Taiwan, Fifield took
Huang to the Gongguan area of Taipei to eat spicy duck
blood. “That was just him showing how well he knows
Taipei.” Although born and raised in Miaoli County’s
Tongxiao Township, with her deep-set features Huang
is often mistaken in Taiwan for a Southeast-Asian im-
migrant. She says: “I only began to really love Taiwan
after coming back here with him.”
The couple married in June of 2019. Because there
were guests coming to the wedding from 15 countries,
Tom and Joanna, with their advanced computer skills,
set up a website called “We’re Getting Married!” intro-
拿到台灣身分證，讓田記禮必須服一年的兵役。他高
ducing things like how to exchange currency in Taiwan
興地說，可以有一年時間貢獻給台灣。
and information on accommodations. A friend declared Having become a citizen of Taiwan, Fifield must do a year
of military service or alternative service. He says he is
that it “looks just like an information website of Tai- happy to have a year in which he can make a contribution
wan’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs.” On the day of the to Taiwan.
wedding, they arranged preliminary activities, includ-

ing paper cutting and a tea party, at Zhishan Garden in
the grounds of the National Palace Museum, with the
goal of introducing Taiwanese culture to their guests.
They held their wedding banquet in a restaurant in tional Development Council adopted the new “Employ-
a historic building in the Shilin Night Market so that ment Gold Card” policy, and Fifield was one of the first
guests could browse through the night market after professionals to get an NDC-approved Employ ment
eating. This series of activities was designed to give Gold Card. Moreover, he and a Frenchman, Eric Kuhn,
their friends and families an opportunity to experience created a non-governmental “Taiwan Gold Card” web-
the best of Taiwan. site to share information about their experiences and
Even Fifield’s parents are big fans of Taiwan. His the application process. Fifield, knowledgeable as he is
mom, Denise, who was a ballet dancer, has visited about the policy and regulations, even acted as an ad-
countries all over the world, but refers to Taiwan as her visor to the NDC’s Taiwan Employment Gold Card Of-
“second home.” fice in creating their official Taiwan Gold Card website.
The Taiwan Gold Card website Pointing to the upper right-hand side of the webpage,
Foreigners who want to live in Taiwan must meet he says: “The home page is in English, and, like Taiwan
the relevant residency requirements. In 2018 the Na- Panorama, it’s bilingual.”
11
事專業工作的外國人才，可以享有簽證居留與工位時，所舉辦與總統見面的活動。第一年國發
作許可的優惠。田記禮發現，特別是這項政策沒會發出188 張就業金卡，拜台灣疫情控制是全球
有以往申請過程繁複、表格複雜的問題，而且對模範生之賜，加上田記禮等人的協助，累計至今
專業的外國人士太方便了。（2021）年5月已核發超過2,700張，還有許多矽
他不僅是第一批獲國發會核發就業金卡的專業谷重量級科技人、知名藝術家申請。
人士，更進一步與法籍的Eric Khun，建置了民間不只申請就業金卡，去年拿到台灣身分證的田
版的「就業金卡網站」（Taiwan Gold Card），記禮說：「我很興奮哪！我相信台灣，相信台灣
分享許多個人經驗及申請流程的相關資訊。熟悉的經濟，相信台灣的人，相信未來很光明，我很
政策與規定的田記禮，並且協助國發會就業金卡期待今年八月台灣的公投可以投票！」
辦公室，擔任國發會就業金卡網站的顧問。他指
競跑是冥想，當兵是服務
著網頁的右上方說：「首頁是英語，與《光華雜
誌》一樣是雙語的。」 2015年某一天，突然覺得百無聊賴的田記禮，
田記禮以他的姓為名，在台灣創立「伍片田」週遭朋友剛好都沒有空，他上網隨機報名了在台
公司，自家辦公室牆上，掛著與總統蔡英文合北市內湖山系舉辦的「探索後花園」12公里越野
照的照片，這是國發會在核發就業金卡滿 1,000 賽跑。
完全沒有經驗的他，第一次參加，勉強跑完
全場，卻體驗到越野賽跑需克服樹根、石頭交錯
的複雜地形，以及奔跑過河，垂直攀爬山徑的樂
沿著新北市頂埔跑到南勢角，20公里的稜線山徑，三小時跑
完，是田記禮練習越野跑的路徑。趣。他因此積極投入越野賽跑，尤其擅長雨天溼
Fifield trains for trail races by running a 20-kilometer mountain
path along a ridge from Dingpu to Nanshijiao in New Taipei City.
滑的比賽，2018年在貓空越野賽中拿到21公里第
It takes him three hours. 二名的好成績。
田記禮與J o a n n a不時會擔任越野跑競賽的志
積極投入越野賽跑，田記禮多次拿到獎盃。
Since taking up cross-country racing, Fifield has won a number 工，感受到越野跑社群既爭競又互助，有運動家
of trophies.
精神又友善環境的特質；他更透過越野跑，體驗
了台灣最美麗的風景，他說：「越野跑可以到台
灣最中間的山脈，一天來回；我還跑過有100年
歷史的原住民古道，因此了解台灣原住民的故
事。」田紀禮以柔軟的語氣說：「越野賽跑對我
來說，有如冥想，讓我用全部的腦袋專注，因為
一發呆就可能跌倒，暫時忘記工作的事。」
在台灣，唯一受不了的是去銀行。在澳洲超
過十年沒有去過銀行的他，因為必須處理海外匯
款，每個月到銀行去，「這時是訓練我的國語與
耐心的好時候。」田記禮說，如果銀行業務能夠
線上完成，將可以省去很多等候的時間與麻煩。
入籍台灣後，由於他未滿36歲，依規定需要服
一年的替代役，田記禮為了等待當兵，甚至暫停
公司的業務，雖然太太Joanna的擔心害怕溢於言
表。不過，田記禮用標準的捲舌音說：「台灣是
我的base。我非常開心有一年的時間，可以貢獻
給台灣。」 l
12
Fifield not only acquired an Employment Gold Card, 位於板橋的起家厝，享受甜蜜的兩人世界。
Tom and Joanna enjoy the happiness of their two-person world
but last year he also became a citizen of Taiwan. “I’m so at their home in Banqiao.
excited! I have faith in Taiwan, faith in Taiwan’s econ-
omy, faith in Taiwan’s people, and faith that the future
is very bright. I’m really looking forward to the referen- In Taiwan, the only thing that frustrates him is hav-
dum this August, because I can vote in it!” ing to go to the bank. He had not been to a bank for over
Competitive running and military service ten years back in Australia, but in Taiwan he has to go
One day back in 2015, Fifield was feeling bored and every month to arrange overseas remittances. “These
none of his nearby friends was free, so he went online are good opportunities for improving my Chinese and
and casually signed up for the 12-kilometer “Explore learning patience,” says Fifield. If he could complete
Your Backyard” trail race in the mountains of the these banking operations online, it would save him a lot
Neihu District of Taipei City. of waiting time and trouble.
Fifield had no previous experience, and he com- Now that he is a Taiwanese citizen, because Fifield is
pleted his first race only with difficulty. But he also not yet 36 years old he must do a year of alternative milit-
experienced the joy of running across complex terrain ary service. He has even temporarily given up working
with tree roots, rocks, rivers to cross, and steep moun- to wait to be enlisted. His wife is visibly worried.
tain paths to climb. Since then, he has dedicated him- However, Fifield says (with perfect retroflex pronun-
self to cross-country running. He has gotten especially ciation): “Taiwan is my base. I’m very happy to have a
good at races run in slippery conditions on rainy days. year in which I can help Taiwan.” l
In 2018, he took second place in the 21-kilometer cate- (Esther Tseng/photos by Kent Chuang/
gory of the ULTRA Maokong trail race. tr. by Phil Newell)
13
封面故事　
COVER STORY
愛上第二故鄉
來自希臘的台灣女婿裴思達
In Love with His Second Homeland
—Physicist Stathes Paganis
文•李珊瑋　圖•林格立　版面設計•馬英凱
緣份在視線接觸的剎那開啟，跨越千里，留駐幸福。
國際知名的粒子物理研究者裴思達，由希臘赴美求學，
對來自台灣的女孩一見鍾情。婚後旅居歐美多年，卻在喜
獲麟兒後於2014年選擇回到妻子的故鄉──台灣。入籍台
灣的裴思達，不僅喜愛台灣的美食，讚嘆優質的社會人
文，更對台灣的學術環境及科技生產能力給予高度肯定。
F ate intervened when their gazes met. T hey crossed the

world to seize their happiness.
Internationally renowned particle physicist Stathes Paganis
went from his native Greece to pursue studies in America, where
he fell in love with a woman from Taiwan. They lived for many
years in North America and Europe, but after being blessed with
a child, in 2014 they chose to move to his wife’s homeland.
物理學家 Physics
14
來自希臘的台灣女婿裴思達，2014年帶領妻兒回到妻子的故
鄉。入籍台灣的裴思達，以身為台灣人為傲。
In 2014, Greek-born Stathes Paganis moved his family to his wife’s
homeland, Taiwan. Having become a citizen, Paganis is proud to
be Taiwanese.
15
位於台灣大學的「台灣高
能物理聯合實驗室」，主
要任務是對製作完成偵測
器進行測試與分析。
The main mission of the
Taiwan Instrumentation
and Detector Consortium
lab at NTU is to test and
analyze completed particle
detectors.
在政府經費支援下，裴思達運用台灣的優勢科「希臘的父母和台灣的一樣，都希望孩子要
技，建置全台第一座「矽基偵測器」，並得到歐讀一個將來出路比較好的學系。」原本學習電機
洲核物理研究中心緊湊渺子線圈（CMS）實驗，工程的裴思達，卻因感到無趣勉強完成學士學位
指定為下一代粒子成像量熱器偵測器的生產基後遠赴瑞士，參加三個月的夏季課程，接觸到大
地，引領台灣精良的軟硬體實力在國際發光。型強子對撞機（LHC）計畫後，就深深被物理學
及無窮盡的宇宙所吸引。「可能和我的個性有關
迷上物理的科學家
吧。」生性浪漫的裴思達，喜歡運用天馬行空的
由廣達電腦副董事長梁次震出資所建的次震宇無拘思緒，探索人類的起源與星球未來的發展。
宙館，四面垂直俐落的遮陽板，在日照下，熠熠
推崇台灣的學術環境
發光。走進台灣大學這座2018年入圍WAF世界建
築獎決選與Architizer A+ Awards國際建築獎特別「這個場景，就是模擬宇宙混沌，生命起源
獎的地標性建物，瞬間把環繞四周，喧擾的車水的樣子。」裴思達興沖沖地來到宇宙館的休閒空
馬龍摒拒在外。仰望外方內圓的建築中心，挑高間，指著屋頂的裝潢介紹著，眼中閃爍著對宇宙
38米的觀月中庭天井，讓人有融入宇宙時空的震和生命的崇敬與讚嘆。1999年取得德州大學奧斯
撼。踏著金屬沖孔板的點狀投影，來到裴思達的汀分校粒子物理學博士後，在哥倫比亞大學和威
研究室，在挑高四米的空間裡，裴思達用溫暖的斯康辛大學麥迪遜分校繼續鑽研。2005年到英國
笑容，回憶起成為台灣人的點點滴滴。雪菲爾大學，由講師到教授，近十年的教學和研
「台灣和我的家鄉很像。」來自希臘的裴思究中，裴思達的學術成果更上層樓。
達，不但說的一口流暢的中文，還能閱讀漢字。「台灣的學術研究環境很好。」2014年裴思達做
「我和太太還是習慣用英文溝通，我都是看電視了一個重大的決定，選擇舉家回到妻子的故鄉──
學中文的。」說起融入台灣生活的經過，裴思達台灣。他在國立台灣大學物理系任教外，還擔任校
滿臉幸福的笑容。內新成立的「粒子物理和粒子天文物理學」小組
16
With government funding, Stathes Paganis has uti- An excellent academic environment
lized Taiwan’s leading technologies to set up the island’s “This scene depicts the primeval chaos of the universe
first silicon detector facility, which has been designated as and the origins of life,” explains Paganis enthusiastically,
a production center for next-generation calorimetric par- pointing to the ceiling decoration in a relaxation space
ticle imaging detectors for the Compact Muon Solenoid he has led us to, his eyes shining with reverence and
(CMS) experiment of the Large Hadron Collider (LHC) at admiration for the universe and life. After gaining his
the European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN). doctorate in particle physics at the University of Texas
This program is showcasing Taiwan’s strengths in both at Austin in 1999, Paganis went on to do research work
software and hardware on the international stage. at Columbia University in New York and then at the
Fascinated by physics Univer sity of Wisconsin–Madison. In 2005 he moved
Inside the 38-meter-tall “moongazing” atrium of to the University of Sheffield in the UK, where he pro-
National Taiwan University’s Chee-Chun Leung Cosmo- gressed from lecturer to professor, and over the course of
logy Hall, built with a donation from Quanta Computer almost a decade of teaching and research work his aca-
vice chairman and president C.C. Leung, one has an demic achievements also rose to a new level.
overwhelming sense of being an integral part of the uni- “Taiwan has an excellent academic research environ-
verse and spacetime. In the four-meter-tall space of his ment.” In 2014, Paganis made a major decision, choos-
research office, a warmly smiling Stathes Paganis remin- ing to move his whole family to his wife’s homeland of
isces about his path to becoming a Taiwanese citizen. Taiwan. Beside his teaching duties in the Department of
“Taiwan is very much like my homeland.” Paganis, Physics at National Taiwan University (NTU), he heads
who comes from Greece, speaks fluent Mandarin and can up the school’s Particle Physics and Particle Astrophysics
read Chinese too. “Greek parents are just like Taiwanese
parents—they hope their children can study a subject
that offers good career prospects.” Paganis originally
「台灣高能物理聯合實驗室」為無塵室，主要是將矽晶圓材
studied electrical engineering, but found the subject dull, 料製作成偵測器。
so that finishing his undergraduate degree was a chore. The TIDC uses a clean-room environment to produce particle
detectors from silicon wafer material.
But after graduating he attended a three-month summer
school in Switzerland, where he came into contact with 研究生手中拿著六英寸HGCAL偵測器模組，和裴思達（左）
the LHC program at CERN. He found himself deeply 進行討論。
A postgraduate student holds a six-inch HGCal sensor module as
fascinated by physics and the vastness of the universe. he discusses an issue with Stathes Paganis (left).
17
裴思達的獨子深獲希臘家族的寵愛，阿姨（中）見到
他，歡喜溢於言表。（裴思達提供）
Stathes Paganis’ son, an only child, is doted on by
Paganis’ Greek family, as can be seen in the face of the
child’s aunt (center). (courtesy of Stathes Paganis)
重視家庭和倫理的裴思達，每年都會帶著孩子回希臘
米洛斯島探親。（裴思達提供）
Paganis greatly values family relationships, and takes his
son back to Greece to visit relatives every year.
(courtesy of Stathes Paganis)
（PPPA）負責人，在他和研究團隊的努力下，讓
台灣高科技的軟硬體實力，受到國際矚目。
走進實驗室，裴思達指著位於天文數學大樓實
驗室內的高科技精密儀器，「號稱『上帝粒子』
的希格斯玻色子，就是2012年由歐洲核子研究
組織（CERN）透過這種偵測器發現的。」這是
物理界的重大里程碑。在各參與研究團隊（中研
院、台大、中大、成大等）的共同努力下，得到
科技部經費補助，建置全台第一座同類型原型偵
測器，其所有元件都由台灣生產製造。這台「台
灣矽基偵測器（Taiwan Silicon Detector Facility，
T S i D F）」在2019年3月正式營運，並於今年1
月，在科技部的主導下，結合所有參與的研究團個探測器實驗之一。2014年，他加入CMS實驗，
隊，組成「台灣高能物理聯合實驗室」（Taiwan 並成為高粒度量能器（HGCAL）計畫委員會的副
I n s t r u m e n t a t i o n a n d D e t e c t o r C o n s o r t i u m，主席。在一個全球逾60所學術機構參與的組織中
TIDC）。擔任此職位，無疑是聯絡台灣學術界與尖端科技
在多國先進科學家參觀「台灣矽基偵測器」設的橋梁。
施後，這項尖端精密實驗儀器，受到來自日本的
愛上來自美麗之島的女孩
理化學研究所（RIKEN）、美國布魯克赫文國家
研究所（BNL）及麻省理工學院（MIT）等20位曾經在美國紐約、德州、加州三地的實驗室
科學家的肯定，同時期許這項設施能夠為BNL研間奔波七年的裴思達，單調的生活中，他用運動
究所sPHENIX實驗的追蹤裝置，提供生產空間。自我調劑。「那時候我常常一個人到金門大橋跑
擔任計畫發起人的裴思達表示台灣被世界上最步看日落。」說起當時同儕間的一個笑話，裴思
傑出的實驗團隊，歐洲核物理研究中心的CMS 實達仍然忍俊不已。由於實驗室地處偏遠，生活機
驗，指定為下一代粒子成像量熱器偵測器的生產能不佳，例如在紐約州的布魯克赫文國家實驗室
基地，未來將提供5,000個感測器模組，而且建造（Brookhaven National Laboratory）工作時，有研
偵測器核心元件的整個製程，都將在台灣進行，究生便戲稱在BNL做事，簡直是「Be iN helL」，
這是台灣科技史上重大的榮譽，也是台灣團隊共無聊得宛如地獄。「來到台灣，感覺生活就像天
同的功勞。堂般美好。」
2003年，裴思達進入總部位於瑞士的CERN，「在德州遇到我一生的最愛。」在弟弟經營
參與了超環面儀器（ATLAS）實驗，為LHC中四的咖啡廳裡，裴思達遇到來自台灣的女學生劉
18
group (PPPA), which was newly established after his ment at CERN—as a manufacturing center for the next
appointment. generation of calorimetric particle imaging detectors,
Leading us into a laboratory in NTU’s Astronomy– the TSiDF will supply 5000 sensor modules, and will
Mathematics Building, Paganis points out a high-tech set up a complete production process for core detector
precision instrument and tells us, “The Higgs boson— components, all of which will be done in Taiwan. This
also known as the ‘God particle’—was detected at CERN is a proud event in the history of Taiwanese science and
in 2012 using a detector like this.” The discovery of the technology, and is a shared achievement of the Taiwanese
Higgs boson marked a major milestone in the world of teams.
physics. With funding from the Ministry of Science and I n 2003 Paga n i s entered CER N, wh ic h i s head-
Technology (MOST), a group of prestigious Taiwanese quartered in Switzerland, to work on the ATLAS experi-
institutes including Academia Sinica, NTU, National ment (ATLAS: “A Toroidal LHC ApparatuS”), one of the
Central University and National Cheng Kung University four main particle detector experiments at the Large
constructed Taiwan’s first prototype of a similar detector, Hadron Collider. In 2014 he joined the CMS experiment,
with all of its components manufactured in Taiwan. The and became deputy chair of the High-Granularity Calori-
Taiwan Silicon Detector Facility (TSiDF) began operating meter (HGCal) project institution board. His holding this
in March 2019, and in January 2021, under the guidance of position in an organization involving more than 60 aca-
MOST, the participating teams together formed the Tai- demic institutions around the world was undoubtedly a
wan Instrumentation and Detector Consortium (TIDC). bridge enabling him to come into contact with Taiwan’s
After visiting the TSiDF, leading scientists from many academic community and cutting-edge technology.
countries expressed the hope that it could provide a Falling in love
manufacturing base for particle tracking detectors for the When Paganis was in the US, he spent seven years
Pioneering High Energy Nuclear Interaction eXperiment shuttling between laboratories in New York, Texas and
(sPHENIX) at Brookhaven National Laboratory in the California. A joke that was current among his colleagues
USA. at the time still makes him laugh. The laboratories were
As the initiator of the program, Paganis states that typically in remote locations with little access to ameni-
after being designated by the world’s most outstanding ties; for example, Brookhaven National Laboratory is in a
experi mental team—the one running the CMS experi- rural part of Long Island, New York State. Postgraduate
裴思達經常帶著孩子接
近大自然，他覺得台
灣有許多地方，和他的
出生地 ——希臘米洛斯
島（M i l o s I s l a n d）很
相似。（裴思達提供）
Paganis often takes his
son outdoors into the
natural world. He feels
that Taiwan is similar
in many ways to his
birthplace, the Greek
island of Milos in the
Aegean Sea. (courtesy of
Stathes Paganis)
19
裴思達唯一的寶貝兒
子在台灣接受國民教
育，完全融入在地生
活。
The Paganises’ son
attends an ordinary
school in Taiwan and
is fully integrated into
local life.
鈺屏，「當時我只知道福爾摩沙意思是美麗之利的中文，裴思達以身為台灣人為傲。「台灣真
島。」在目光接觸的剎那，裴思達立即被劉鈺屏的有很多地方比別人強，只是你們自己還不知
吸引。「我對她是一見鍾情。」墜入愛河的裴思道。」其實裴思達決定定居台灣時，也是經過深
達，因為妻子，而認識台灣。思熟慮，仔細觀察評估過的。「台灣的醫療品質
「希臘和台灣有很多相似的地方。」經常帶和制度真的很棒，交通建設也很便利。」比起歐
著孩子騎腳踏車，或去海邊游泳的裴思達，父子美，台灣較低的稅金和油價，更是吸引他的重要
倆徜徉在海水中，彷彿回到地中海的希臘。「我因素。「而且台灣的治安很好。」裴思達唯一感
們結婚很久後，才有孩子。」期待多年的愛情結到困擾的，就是近些年來，空氣品質越來越差。
晶，受到雙方祖父母的寵愛。「我們每年都會帶「有時候會讓我過敏。」他認為未來應該鼓勵用
著孩子回希臘和台灣。」重視家庭和倫理，是雙電動摩托車取代現有的汽油機車。部份不遵守交
方的共識。為了減輕三地往返奔波的辛勞，而且通規則的車輛和行人，裴思達也認為應該參考歐
離家多年的妻子，越來越思念家鄉，疼愛妻子的美的嚴厲罰則，遏阻違規。
裴思達，毅然放棄英國的教職，帶著妻小回到「台灣的基礎教育很好。」裴思達放心把家安
台灣。「我太太是客家人，又很會做菜。」回到置在台灣，唯一的寶貝兒子也在台灣接受國民教
新竹芎林，台灣女婿對客家傳統習俗感到親切又育，完全融入在地生活。假日固定和球友練球的
有趣，好客的裴思達經常邀請好友鄰居們共聚一裴思達，在足球場上快樂奔馳歡呼。「足球講究
堂，品味妻子的好手藝。的是團隊默契，做實驗也是一樣。」
說起台灣美食，裴思達如數家珍，香雞排、臭跨越半個地球，粒子物理權威裴思達，不僅
豆腐配啤酒，乾麵加上一盤豬頭肉，宜蘭鴨賞、在台灣作育英才，更遇到最佳合作團隊，產出源
蔥油餅，更是造訪時一定要吃的美食。源不絕的研究能量，和政府共同打造與國際同步
接軌的優越產學合一環境，讓更多精英樂於留在
台灣女婿愛上台灣
台灣發展。「我熱愛這片土地，也相信明天會更
「我有台灣身分證，我是台灣人。」說著流好。」裴思達說。 l
20
students would joke that life there was so dull that to
work at BNL was to “Be iN helL.” By comparison, says
Paganis, “Coming to Taiwan is like living in heaven.”
“In Texas, I met the love of my life.” In a coffee shop
run by his brother, Paganis met a student from Taiwan:
Liu Yu-ping. It was love at first sight. Through his future
wife, he learned about Taiwan.
“There are many similarities between Greece and
Taiwan.” Paganis often takes his son out cycling or to the
seaside. When they go swimming in the ocean it is as if he
were back home in Greece, beside the Aegean Sea. While
living in the UK, he recounts, “Every year we would take
our son back to both Greece and Taiwan.” Both Paganis
and his wife set great store by family relationships. To
reduce the burden of traveling between three locations,
the loving husband Paganis boldly decided to give up his
teaching position in the UK and bring his family to Tai-
wan. “My wife is Hakka, and she’s a wonderful cook.” As
a son-in-law in a Taiwanese family from Qionglin, Hsin-
chu County, Paganis finds Hakka traditional customs both
touching and interesting. A very hospitable person himself,
台灣大學次震宇宙館挑高38米的觀月中庭天井，讓人有融入
he often invites friends and neighbors to his home to spend
宇宙時空的震撼。
time with his family and enjoy his wife’s excellent cooking. The 38-meter-tall atrium of the Chee-Chun Leung Cosmology
Hall at NTU gives one an overwhelming sense of being part of
Speaking of Taiwanese foods, Paganis reels off a list the universe and spacetime.
of favorites including deep-fried chicken cutlet, stinky
tofu with beer, and dry noodles with a platter of pig’s
head meat, and says that whenever he goes to Yilan he no qualms about settling his family in Taiwan. His be-
makes a point of eating the local smoked duck and scallion loved son and only child goes to an ordinary Taiwanese
pancakes. school and is completely integrated into local life. Paga-
A son-in-law who loves Taiwan nis himself, who trains with amateur footballers at week-
“I have a Taiwanese ID card. I’m Taiwanese!” Speak- ends, runs happily around the pitch shouting for joy.
ing fluent Mandarin, Paganis is proud to be Taiwanese. “What matters in football is team spirit; the same goes
“Taiwan really does have a lot of strengths compared with for conduct ing experiments.”
other places—you just don’t realize it yet yourselves.” In Having traveled halfway around the world, in Taiwan
fact, Paganis decided to settle in Taiwan only after a great respected particle physicist Stathes Paganis not only
deal of in-depth consideration and detailed observation. educates outstanding students, he has also been able to
“The healthcare system and quality of treatment in Tai- collaborate with the most outstanding teams, generat-
wan really are outstanding, and the well-developed trans- ing boundless research capabilities and working with
port networks make life very convenient.” Compared with the govern ment to create an excellent internationally
Europe and North America, Taiwan’s lower taxes and fuel oriented environ ment of integration between industry
prices were also important factors that attracted him. “Tai- and academia, thus enabling more elite personnel to be
wan offers a very safe, low-crime living environment too.” happy to remain in Taiwan and pursue their careers here.
The only thing that bothers Paganis is that in recent years “I love this land, and I believe tomorrow will be even
air quality has been deteriorating. “Sometimes it gives me better,” says Paganis. l
an allergic reaction.” (Lee Shan Wei/photos by Jimmy Lin/
“Taiwan’s basic education is very good.” Paganis had tr. by Robert Taylor)
21
封面故事　
COVER STORY
找到生命中
之所愛與所長
半導體技術專家水沼仁志
One Place, One Love, One Vocation
—Semiconductor Engineer
Hitoshi Mizunuma
文•曾蘭淑　圖•林格立　版面設計•馬英凱
台灣半導體產業在全球發光發熱，完整均衡的供應鏈有賴護國神山群
從元件到技術的通力合作。日本籍的台灣東芝電子零組件公司營業企畫
與半導體事業部行銷部副協理水沼仁志，在台灣找到他的天命，深耕台
灣半導體產業超過20年，樂於與產業界分享最新技術與趨勢，2020年歸
化為台灣人。然而， 23年前他到台灣的原因，卻是為了「愛」。
T he fabulous global success of Taiwan’s semiconductor industry has de-

pended in no small part on a comprehensive and well-balanced industrial
supply chain whose members cooperate closely on everything from devices to
technologies. Hitoshi Mizunuma is associate general manager of the Discrete
Marketing Department in the Sales Management & Semiconductor Division of
Toshiba Electronic Components Taiwan. A native of Japan, Mizunuma found
his life’s mission in Taiwan. During more than 20 years toiling away in Tai-
wan’s semiconductor industry, he’s always been happy to share information
with industry peers on the latest technologies and trends. A naturalized citi-
zen since 2020, it was love that prompted him to come to Taiwan 23 years ago.
工程師 Engineering
22
與家人一起是生活中最大的幸福。
Time with family is the happiest thing in life.
23
週日上午十點，濱江市場人聲鼎沸，水沼仁志
為愛來到台灣
由太太陳麗如騎著摩托車，載著他買菜。來到台
灣超過20年，他還是不敢在台灣騎摩托車。水沼當時還在日本東京工業大學就讀機械工程的水
太太根據先生規劃好的一週食譜，有效率地買完沼仁志，認識了同在蕎麥麵店打工的台灣留學生
菜，由太太付錢，先生跟在後面提菜。陳麗如。兩人相戀三年決定相守一生。水沼仁志
不像日劇裡的「半澤直樹」總是很晚下班，考慮到，若由陳麗如在日本找工作，不如學理工
負責半導體產線應用工程以及技術行銷的水沼仁的他到台灣找工作容易，因此他們決定到台灣共
志，這幾年來，五點下班，回家煮飯，他系統地組家庭，卻遇到第一個難關。
建立了200多道食譜，煮飯前，從電腦打開「チ雙方父母親認為要先存錢才能結婚，水沼決定
キン南」（南蠻雞）與「白身魚の香り蒸し」先留在日本，在東京一家系統整合商工作，陳麗
（蒸魚）食譜，自製南蠻漬醬汁、塔塔醬，將炸如也回到台灣在華航工作。兩地相思，水沼住在
好的南蠻雞端上桌，這道菜是女兒的最愛，另外爸媽家，省吃儉用，兩年存了第一桶金，他說：
用水波爐煮秋刀魚給愛吃魚的岳父。晚上七點，「那時沒有L I N E，生活中最多的花費是講國際
他回到書桌，開始在家加班，與廠商視訊，處理電話，每天晚上11點45分，與在台灣的女朋友講
工作上的問題。 15分鐘，一個月講到六萬元日幣（約1.5萬元台
看似台灣版「昨日的美食」裡的律師莧史郎，幣）。」兩年不輟。
力求準時下班，在買菜時精打細算，為妻兒親手有著好學歷，還有軟體工作經驗的水沼，到台
烹調料理，「居家型大叔」水沼仁志，工作上處灣結了婚，卻發現找不到心中滿意的工作。為了
理的卻是高端深奧的半導體元件與嵌入式韌體的克服第二個難關，「事豫則立」，他決定先花一
技術支援。年的時間好好學中文。
然而，23年前水沼仁志到台灣的原因，並非是水沼用不太捲舌的日式國語笑著說：「當了一
被日本公司外派到台灣，而是為了遷就正在熱戀年給太太養的米蟲。」但陳麗如卻很佩服地讚賞：
中的女友，婚後計劃隨著妻子到台灣定居。「先生有毅力又很努力，每天不畏辛勞，轉三班巴
水沼仁志能以流利的
國語，分享電子產業
最新趨勢與市場現
況。（水沼仁志提
供）
Hitoshi Mizunuma
uses his fluent
Mandarin to share
information on the
latest trends and
market conditions
in the electronics
industry. (courtesy of
Hitoshi Mizunuma)
學員們發揮創意捏出獨一無二的雞母狗，過程既紓壓又有
趣。
Students use their creativity to mold distinctive Penghu rice-flour
dough animal figurines, a fun and stress-relieving activity.
24
水沼仁志的主要工作，
是以馬達驅控及功率半
導體元件技術，支援台
灣客戶的製程。
Mizunuma’s main job
involves motor drive and
power semiconductor
device technologies,
which support the
manufacturing processes
of Toshiba’s Taiwan
customers.
At 10 o’clock on a Sunday morning, with bustling

crowds milling about in the Binjiang street market, Hitoshi
Mizunuma arrives at the market on the back of a scooter
driven by his wife, Chen Liru. He’s here to buy groceries.
After more than 20 years in Taiwan, he still doesn’t have
the courage to ride a scooter here himself. Mrs. Mizu
numa efficiently buys the week’s worth of groceries that
her hubby set out in a list. She pays for the groceries, and
Mizunuma follows behind carrying the bags.
Anyone familiar with the Japanese manga and live
action drama series What Did You Eat Yesterday? might
well think of Mizunuma as the Taiwan version of the law
yer Shiro Kakei in that story. Just like Kakei, Mizunuma is
a stickler for leaving the office as soon as his shift is over, the Tokyo Institute of Technology when he met Chen Liru,
carefully budgets all grocery purchases, and cooks all the a student from Taiwan working at a soba noodle shop.
meals for his wife and daughter. But don’t be deceived by After three years together, the two decided to make
such homebody interests—at work he’s a shark, busily things permanent, and it occurred to Mizunuma that
arranging technical assistance to help other firms develop rather than ask her to find work in Japan, it would be eas
cutting-edge semiconductor components, embedded firm ier for him, with his tech expertise, to carve out a career
ware, and much more. in Taiwan. And so they started a family in Taiwan.
Mizunuma came to Taiwan 23 years ago not because But despite his strong academic background and
his Japanese company transferred him here, but because experience working in software, Mizunuma had a sur
his girlfriend was from Taiwan. After they married, he prisingly tough time finding a job to his liking in Taiwan.
followed her back to Taiwan and settled down in his “Well then,” he thought to himself, “success goes to those
adopted homeland. who prepare, no?” So he spent an entire year concen
To Taiwan, with love trating on improving his Chinese.
Mizunuma was majoring in mechanical engineering at The following year he found a job at the Taiwan
25
水沼仁志假日陪太太買菜，平日作菜則會參考電腦內
建的200多道食譜。
Hitoshi Mizunuma goes grocery shopping with his wife on
weekends, and then chooses recipes from more than 200
on his computer to cook up the family meals.
足硬體知識的不足。
十年前，數位電視日趨普及，身為高頻半導體
零組件龍頭的東芝公司，掌握數位電視調變器的
關鍵技術，台灣的聯發科有功能很強的系統單晶
片（SoC），在水沼居中串聯下，生產的日規數
位電視行銷至南美洲，吃下100％的市場，水沼
仁志因此二度獲得日本東芝模範員工的最高榮譽
士到汐止跟我的舅舅學中文，中文進步很多。」隔「社長獎」。
年，水沼仁志如願地進入當時日本最大的半導體廠六年前開始，水沼仁志不定期在經濟部工業局
商東芝（Toshiba）在台灣的分公司工作。舉辦的在職培訓或研討會中擔任講師，協助培訓
由於以往日本在海外的分公司，同時需要雇用產業人才。
兩組人。以台灣為例，一組是日本派駐到台灣，全球最大電子產業媒體平台的《電子工程專
負責與總公司溝通的日本員工；一組是台灣的工輯》（EE Times TW）台灣總經理鄔重儀認為，台
程師負責與在地廠商溝通。有專業又會中文的水灣半導體製造與IC設計，在全球地位十分突出，
沼，一人等於抵兩人用。而電子工程專業能夠改變世界的核心，就在於研
發與設計。水沼仁志能以流利的國語，分享電子
台日合作創新局
產業最新趨勢與市場現況，對高階工程主管與全
水沼仁志一開始在東芝擔任應用工程師球科技創投的領導人來說，可以說獲益良多。
（FAE），幫助客戶解決線路寫錯，或是那裡有
終生志業，發揮所長
bug等問題。半導體是一個對技術含量要求甚高的
產業，原本只擅長軟體的他，又到台灣大學資訊水沼仁志不諱言，常因為時機不好等原因，設
工程研究所念了一個碩士，接著又直攻博士，鎖計的新產品被取消或是退場。抱持著「有志者事
定電子計算機架構（computer architecture），補竟成」信念的他說：「遇到失敗，就趕快回到實
26
branch of Toshiba, which at the time was the biggest trolled key technologies needed for the manufacture
semiconductor maker in Japan. of digital TV modulators, while Taiwan’s MediaTek
The overseas branches of Japanese companies back in produced highperformance systemonachip (SoC)
those days maintained two parallel groups of employees. products. With Mizunuma serving as liaison, the two
In Taiwan, for example, one group comprised Japanese companies got together to make digital televisions to
nationals sent by the company to Taiwan to maintain Japanese speci fications. The resulting products came
communications with the parent company, while the to command a 100% market share in South America,
other group comprised Taiwanese engineers who were and Mizunuma twice received the President’s Award,
responsible for communicating with local customers. But Toshiba’s top honor for its employees.
Mizunuma was a Japanese tech professional who also Six years ago, to help train talent for industry, Mizu
knew Chinese, and so was able to handle both roles. numa started teaching at inservice training events and
Bilateral cooperation brings results seminars organized by the Industrial Development Bu
Upon joining Toshiba, Mizunuma first worked as a reau of Taiwan’s Ministry of Economic Affairs.
field application engineer, in which capacity he helped Grace Wu is the Asia Pacific general manager of
customers resolve circuit errors and bugs. But the Aspencore, the owner of USbased Electronic Engineer
semiconductor industry requires an extremely high ing Times (EE Times), the world’s largest digital industry
level of technical expertise. Originally proficient only media platform. In her opinion, the fact that Mizunuma
in software, Mizunuma earned a master’s degree in is able to use his fluent Mandarin to share information
the Department of Computer Science and Information on the latest trends and market conditions in the elec
Engineering at National Taiwan University, and contin tronics industry is a big plus for senior tech executives
ued directly on from there to the PhD program, where and leaders of venture capital firms around the world.
he focused on computer architecture to bring his know Lifelong devotion
ledge of hardware up to speed. Mizunuma frankly acknowledges that the products
A decade ago, digital televisions were steadily he designs are often canceled or withdrawn from the
taking over the market. Toshiba, as a leading manu market due to poor timing or other reasons, but he re
facturer of highfrequency semiconductor devices, con mains confident that where there’s a will, there’s a way:
水沼仁志做的家常日式
烏龍麵，親自用油鍋
炸麵麩，搭配豆皮、青
菜、白煮蛋、肉片與蔥
花，一點都不馬虎。
To make Japanese-style
udon noodles, Hitoshi
Mizunuma personally
deep-fries wheat gluten
pieces and mixes them
in with tofu skin, green
veggies, hard-boiled
eggs, pork slices, and
spring onions. He’s a
stickler on every detail.
27
驗室，與總部工程師同心協力找出解決方案，再
心之所屬，就在台灣
提出新的產品來取代。」他曾在規劃客戶產線的
過程中，被220伏特的高電壓觸電到，瞬間心臟麻說到台灣與日本企業文化的不同，水沼仁志認
痺，非常危險。為，日本公司整體就像是一堅實的家族，人際關
由於日本東芝在馬達驅控以及功率半導體元件係很濃密，但不太容易與客戶有朋友般的往來。
的綜合市佔率位居全球第二，配合台灣在工業自動「在台灣，客戶可以當朋友，私下相處可以不談
化與消費型家電製造的強項，以技術長期支援台灣公事，話家常，這是我很感動的。」
客戶製程的他發現，要行銷自家的產品，「不只賺走路上班的水沼仁志，仍不改東京人走路很快
客戶的錢，更重要的是，要幫助客戶賺錢。」的習慣，時速快達七公里（一般人約4.5公里）。
以馬達驅控的微處理器為例，水沼仁志自製影喜歡學新知識的他，每天上午五點起床念書，他
片，模擬實機馬達的軟體，傳授最新「無感測無認為，能夠整合不同領域的技術，「不只很有趣
刷馬達向量控制演算法」的技術。他自豪地說：嘛！而且只有我能夠做到。」
「當製程發生問題，同業還要回頭問公司的研在台灣每兩週泡一次湯、每週維持到紀伊國書
發工程師時，我的客戶可以自行調整演算法的參屋或淳久堂書店的習慣，水沼仁志說：「說中文時
數，或是自行調機，具備驅動下一代馬達的專業會覺得自己就是台灣人；說日文時，才會覺得自己
知識。」是日本人。」但現在大部份時間都是說中文，他眉
全球家居設計及製造龍頭的建霖集團台灣總經毛下彎含蓄地笑著說，上次與日本總公司連絡時，
理潘孟文，從擔任研發工程師時，就與水沼仁志連「新冠肺炎」都突然忘了日文怎麼說了。
相識，潘孟文指出：「面臨技術與產品開發的困唯有現就讀政治大學的獨生女水沼翠里，會與
境時，最能看出一個人的真本性，大多的人會推爸爸說著家鄉話。日本有個常用的詞彙「生き甲
諉卸責，但水沼先生自我要求高，會持續溝通，斐」（Ikigai），指追求生活的價值與喜悅，對水
堅持到底，這也是他能與我們成為志同道合夥伴沼仁志來說，台灣，是他生活中溫馨與確切的幸
的原因。」福，亦是貢獻專業的所在。 l
水沼仁志帶著岳父岳母
同遊姬路城。（水沼仁
志提供）
Hitoshi Mizunuma with
his wife and in-laws at
Himeji Castle in Hyogo,
Japan. (courtesy of
Hitoshi Mizunuma)
28
水沼仁志認為在台灣的工作能讓他發揮所長。
Hitoshi Mizunuma feels his work in Taiwan affords
the chance to make good use of his abilities.
“When you experience failure, you have to hustle back Heart and home in Taiwan
to the laboratory and work with other engineers to find Always eager to learn new things, Mizunuma gets
solutions and roll out a new replacement product.” up every morning at 5 a.m. to engage in study. He takes
Toshiba Japan commands the secondlargest global delight in his work of integrating different types of
market share for motor drives and power semiconductor technologies: “It’s fun! And furthermore, I’m the only
devices. Mizunuma has discovered that Toshiba, by tap one who can get it done.”
ping into Taiwan’s strengths in industrial automation Mizunuma has become quite at home in Taiwan, and
and consumer household appliance manufacturing, “can says: “When I speak in Japanese, I feel I am Japanese.
do more than earn money from its customers; more im When I speak in Mandarin, I feel I am Taiwanese.” But
portantly, it can help its customers earn money.” these days he speaks Mandarin most of the time. Indeed,
He states with pride: “When there’s a problem in he admits with a chuckle that the last time he got in
a manufacturing process, our competitors have to go touch with the head office in Japan he suddenly couldn’t
back to head office R&D engineers for help, but our cus remember how to say “novel coronavirus” in Japanese.
tomers can take the initiative to adjust algorithm para His one child, a daughter named Cuili who is cur
meters or adjust equipment on their own. They have the rently enrolled at National Chengchi University, is the
professional expertise to drive nextgeneration motors.” only one around that he can speak with in his native
Kelven Pan is the Taiwan general manager of Run tongue. There’s a term in Japanese—ikigai—which refers
ner Group, a worldleading provider of interior design to a special something that brings joy and makes life
services and manufacturer of interior furnishings. As worth living. For Mizunuma, Taiwan is what brings
a former R&D engineer and a long-time acquaintance warmth to his life and a sure-fire feeling of happiness.
of Mizunuma, Pan says: “Mr. Mizunuma expects a lot And on top of that, Taiwan is where he practices his
of himself. He never stops communicating, and sees profession. l
things through to the end. That’s why he’s a close and (Esther Tseng/photos by Jimmy Lin/
likeminded partner of our company.” tr. by David Mayer)
29
封面故事　
COVER STORY
美之為美的存在
畫家帕斯卡
In Search of Life’s True Colors
—Artist Pascal van der Graaf
文•曾蘭淑　圖•莊坤儒　版面設計•馬英凱
17歲留著五顏六色的龐克頭，四處在荷蘭阿培爾頓市的街
頭塗鴉；28歲獲得荷蘭藝術最高獎項「皇家藝術獎」的畫家
帕斯卡（Pascal van der Graaf），五年前隨著台灣籍的太太
楊雅雯來到台灣。今（2021）年，42歲留著絡腮鬍的他決定
入籍台灣，在台南市新營成立「帕斯卡的藝術工坊」，在藝
術創作與美術教育中，探索藝術的各種可能性。
W hen he was 17, Pascal van der Graaf sported a multi-

colored Mohawk hairst yle and wandered the streets
of Apeldoorn to make graffiti. At 28, he won the Netherlands’
prestigi ous Royal Award for Modern Painting. Van der Graaf
moved to Taiwan five years ago with his Taiwanese wife, Arwen
Yang. This year, the bearded 42-year-old decided to apply for
Taiwanese citizenship. He established Pascal’s Art Workshop in
Xin ying District, Tainan City, to explore the infinite possibili-
ties of art through creative activities and education.
藝術 Art
30
田記禮在台灣愛上越野跑，他認為，越野跑有如冥想，可以全神貫注。
Fifield has fallen in love with trail racing in Taiwan. He feels that cross-country
running is like meditation, in that you can be totally absorbed in it.
31
帕斯卡認為，雕塑以過去為師，也是界限內的探索。
Pascal van der Graaf says that sculptors gain inspiration
from the past and explore creative possibilities within the
boundaries of their art.
南台灣烈陽高照，台南市新營區有著悠閒安適的步
調，帕斯卡在畫室中氣定神閒地要學生用手指頭、小
球來當畫筆，在畫紙上拓展出燦爛繽紛的色彩。他拿
著學生的作品稱讚地說：「畫得很好，小孩子是天生
的藝術家，將這張畫放大到1.5英呎與2英呎見方，裱上
框，就與在美術館看到的成功作品一樣。」
在界限中探索創作的自由
除了教畫，為了準備參與公共藝術投標的作品，帕
斯卡最近一起床，就在畫室專心創作。
他展示最新運用摺紙技法的作品：一隻立體的兔
子。擅長處理色彩變化的他，運用flip flop顏料，讓兔
子在陽光下，閃耀著千變萬化的顏色。這個用紙做的
原形，他計劃未來可以用鋁等金屬作為材料來放大，
成為公共藝術。
「你看，當我摺紙時，將眼睛的角度內凹或是外
凸時，會呈現邪惡或是友善等截然不同的視覺效果。
藝術作品令觀者產生不同的詮釋，這是藝術語言的表
達。」帕斯卡將這隻兔子放在陽台的地板上，在陽光
照耀下，這隻彩色兔頓時變成科技感十足的機器兔。
The sun blazes down in southern Taiwan, and Xinying is

bathed in a serene, carefree atmosphere. In the workshop, a
calm and confident Van der Graaf asks his young students
to put gorgeous colors on their paper with their fingers and
small balls. Observing their progress, Van der Graaf is full of
praise: “This is an excellent painting. Children are artists by
nature. If you were to enlarge this picture to 1.5 by 2 feet and
frame it, it would look just like the successful works you can
see exhibited in art galleries.”
Exploring creative possibilities
In addition to teaching art, Van der Graaf goes into his
workshop first thing each morning to work on a public art
commission project.
He shows us his most recent origami creation: a three-
dimensional rabbit. Adept at manipulating chromatic varia-
tions, he used special pigments to produce “flip-flop” effects,
making his rabbit glitter in the sun with ever-changing
colors. He plans to turn this paper maquette into a full-sized
public artwork made of aluminium and other metals.
積木課中，帕斯卡
老師要學生在創作
中展現自我。
Van der Graaf
teaches children to
express themselves
creatively by building
models.
帕斯卡的父親四歲就教他摺紙，他自己再從帕斯卡2015年去澳門，是因為在網路上認識了
做中學，成就他現今運用摺紙雕塑的能力。他在澳門科技大學教「中國文化通論」的助理教授
說：「我很享受這個創作的過程，就是tinker and 楊雅雯。
ponder，隨心所欲，摺到那裡，就讓形狀發展到一開始得知楊雅雯是台灣人時，帕斯卡想起對
那裡。」母語是荷蘭語的他，用英文解釋說：台灣的唯一印象，是小時候玩的變形機器人玩具
「以我的語言來解釋，可以說是邊做邊玩，就像由台灣製造，因此他還上網google了一下台灣，
小學時的美術課。」但完全沒有想到會成為台灣人。
帕斯卡示範摺紙技法，三個三角形可以堆疊成還是愛情的力量大，兩人每天視訊，有時一講
金字塔，四個三角形可以成為三角柱，再塗上不話就長達二∼三小時，一個月後，從未來過亞洲
同的3D顏料。他認為，作畫會有規則，創作的藝的帕斯卡決定從荷蘭到澳門來約會，兩人熱戀三
術是在有限制的界限中，探索更大的自由。個月後決定結婚。不諱言這是一場賭注，「現在
他教畫的理念，也與雕塑一樣，從不同的視想想，我很高興我這麼做了。」帕斯卡說。
角切入，才能探究很多不同的可能性。「我不贊笑著說被愛沖「婚」頭的楊雅雯沒有多久懷
成『我說跳，你就問我要跳多高』的教育方式，孕，2016年底大女兒Sky出生後，兩人決定搬回台
從小我所受的教育，是要質疑老師教給你的東灣。原因很多，「澳門沒有太多天然景觀，加上
西。」有著清瘦臉龐的帕斯卡認真地強調：「教澳門面積小、很擁擠，讓人常常想逃離，尤其不
育應該是讓你發現你所喜歡的事物，創作出能表希望女兒在以賭場著名的地方長大，來台灣是很
現你自己的作品。」好的決定，台灣有豐富的自然景觀與人文文化，
台灣人又很和善。」帕斯卡作了如此的分析。
離開人生的舒適圈
不過，搬回台灣，對楊雅雯卻是很大的考驗。
尤其是藝術的探索，帕斯卡認為：「與其待在「這是我人生最嚴重的自我失落。」楊雅雯從小
舒適圈，我更喜歡站到舒適圈外，讓自己得到解就是資優生，台灣大學藥學系畢業，又到中國大
放。」到亞洲就是離開原來的舒適圈。陸北京大學拿到中文博士學位，從在教室高談闊
34
Van der Graaf’s father taught him origami when he When Van der Graaf learned that Yang was from Tai
was four, and building on that base he taught himself to wan, the only thing about the country that came to mind
create paper sculptures. “I very much enjoy this creative was that the Transformers toys he used to play with as
process—the process of tinkering and pondering. I let a child were made there. He gathered some information
my imagination run wild, developing the shape of each about Taiwan via Google, but never did he foresee that
part of a work by trial and error, like walking a path. It’s one day he would become a Taiwanese citizen.
a playful process, rather like what we used to do in ele Van der Graaf videochatted with Yang every day.
mentary school craft classes.” After a month he flew to Macau from the Netherlands
As an art teacher as well as a practicing artist, Van to see her, despite having never visited Asia before.
der Graaf believes that we have to approach each task After three romantic months together, they decided to
from different perspectives in order to open up a wealth get married. Van der Graaf knew this was a gamble, but
of hidden possibilities. “I don’t approve of pedagogical looking back, he is happy that he did it.
systems that propagate the mantra ‘I say “jump” and you Yang, who says with a smile that she and Van der
say “how high?”’ My own education taught me to chal Graaf were head over heels in love, soon became preg
lenge everything my teachers said.” Van der Graaf tells nant. After their daughter, Sky, was born in late 2016,
us in a serious tone: “Education should help us discover the couple decided to relocate to Taiwan.
what we like and create things that express what we are.” However, moving back
Out of the comfort zone to Taiwan was a huge
“Rather than always staying in one place, I like to get challenge for Yang. “I
the hell out of my comfort zone, to liberate myself.” For felt the most profound
Van der Graaf, to move to Asia was to bid farewell to his sense of loss that I have ever
comfort zone. experienced in my life.” Yang
He traveled to Macau in 2015 because he had met has always distinguished
Arwen Yang online. At that time Yang was an assistant h e r s e l f a c a d e m i c a l l y.
professor at Macau University of Science and Tech Having obtained a degree
nology, where she taught Chinese culture. in pharmacy from National
帕斯卡運用摺紙技法
與flip flop顏料，所創
作的貓頭鷹。
Van der Graaf used
origami and “flip-flop”
pigments to create this
owl.
摺紙雕塑的過程，
就是在有限制的界
限中，探索更大的自
由。
Creating origami
sculptures pushes the
boundaries of creative
freedom within the limits
imposed by the medium.
35
「請不要抽菸。」他發現，在場的人也不喜歡有人
抽菸，卻敢怒不敢言，沒有人敢站出來說真話。
這個情形到了台灣也是一樣。尤其是家門前有
人違規停車，不論貼出告示，或是畫上紅線仍有
人繼續違規停車。直到有一天，帕斯卡發現這是
「權力的遊戲」（power play）。
一開始，他出面糾正，違規的人依然故我，
但當他微笑地請對方移車，他發現亂停車的人立
即說著對不起，馬上移車，「微笑以對」是取得
權力主導權的方式。他開車時被人從後面亂按喇
叭，一開始也是怒火中燒，最後他發現，讓自己
心中充滿平靜，維持正常的速度開車，才是佔上
風，這是他面對文化衝擊的轉變。
雖有文化上的衝擊，亞洲之旅卻也啟發了帕
斯卡源源不絕的藝術靈感。原來，與楊雅雯相戀
前，帕斯卡的藝術創作正面臨腸枯思竭的窘境，
楊雅雯在一旁爆料說：「其實他卡很久了。」
曾在2003、2004、2008三度獲得荷蘭國家藝術
基金會BKVB獎金。帕斯卡提及，對新秀畫家來
說，獲得這些獎金有如中了樂透。但他卻是連獲
三次獎，作品還被荷蘭的 Belvédère 美術館等場
館收藏，28歲更獲得了荷蘭藝術最高榮譽「皇家
藝術獎」。可以說少年得志的他所創作的「花」
帕斯卡隨著台灣太太楊雅雯定居台南。系列畫作，表現出花的凋謝與燦爛的綻放，在市
Pascal Van der Graaf has settled in Tainan with
his Taiwanese wife, Arwen Yang.
場賣得很好，但帕斯卡卻覺得無聊。
找到生命的真顏色
來到亞洲，不只戀情滋潤著他，浸潤在
不同風貌的亞洲文化中，尤其是與太太
論孟子莊子的教授，到計較柴到日本旅行，更喚醒了帕斯卡對摺紙
米油鹽的家庭主婦，「我沒有了工藝術的熱情。颱風天，帕斯卡帶著錄
作，又要帶小孩，我想想只有娘家的父影機，跑到澳門的海邊去錄海，海浪不
母親可以為我兩肋插刀。」為了娘家斷沖打上岸，全身溼透的他，回家創作完
的奧援，決定搬到台南新營定居。成「海」系列，從特定的角度觀畫，還能
感受海浪翻騰的悸動。
文化衝擊與權力遊戲的調整
帕斯卡在台南學氣功，在太太組織
對帕斯卡而言，最大的挑戰則是文的「老子道德經」讀書會中，也多所感
化衝擊。悟。雖然讀的是英文版的道德經，他說：「許
習慣作為一個直來直往，捍衛自己權益的歐洲多西方人深受星際大戰系列電影吸引，導演喬
人，帕斯卡舉例說，在澳門，帶著懷孕的太太去治．盧卡斯在電影中強調的『原力』，其實與道
游泳，泳池旁有人抽菸，他總是直接告訴對方：德經中的『道』不謀而合。道是生活的實踐，就
36
Taiwan University, she went on to study for a PhD in 帕斯卡為雙親在台灣準備了舒適的住處，牆上以岳父的算盤
Chinese at Peking University. It was therefore a drastic 為裝飾。
Van der Graaf has prepared a cosy place in Taiwan for his
change to go from expounding on Mencius and Zhuangzi parents to stay in. The wall is decorated with his father-in-law’s
in a university classroom to becoming a penny-pinching abacuses.
housewife. In order to benefit from the help of Yang’s

parents, the couple decided to settle in Xinying. 帕斯卡（右圖的小嬰兒）的哥哥與父母親的合照（左圖），
小帕斯卡還在媽媽的肚子裡。
Culture shock
The photo on the right shows Van der Graaf as an infant, with his
A straightforward European who is mindful of stand- elder brother. His parents and brother are shown on the left. His
mother was pregnant with him when this latter photo was taken.
ing up for his own rights, Van der Graaf has undergone
a great deal of culture shock in Taiwan. For example,
to prevent drivers from illegally parking in front of his
house, he displayed a notice and drew a red line on the
ground, but no one seemed to pay any heed. Eventually something of a lottery for emerging artists, but he won
he realized that this was in fact a “power play.” the award three times, and his works have entered the
At first he would confront the drivers, but when he collections of galleries such as the Museum Belvédère
noticed that this rarely worked, he changed his tactics. in the Netherlands. An early achiever, Van der Graaf
He began to address those recalcitrant rule-breakers accomplished a series of “Flower Pieces,” highlighting
with a polite smile, whereupon they would apologize floral resplendence and decay. These paintings sold
and move their cars elsewhere. To “tackle a problem well, but he found them dull.
with a smile” is the way to gain the upper hand in a Life’s true colors
power play. What inspires Van der Graaf here in Asia is not only
Despite the culture shock, Van der Graaf has found love but also the rich vein of a culture so different from
in his Asian life an inexhaustible source of inspiration. his own. He gains much wisdom from attending his
Before meeting Yang, he had actually been experi- wife’s workshop on Laozi’s Tao Te Ching, even though
encing artist’s block. Yang takes the mickey out of him: he reads this Taoist classic in English. “Many Western-
“He’d had creative constipation for ages.” ers are captivated by Star Wars,” Van der Graaf says. “In
Van der Graaf was awarded stipends by the Nether- these films, what the director George Lucas emphasizes
lands Foundation for Visual Arts, Design and Archi- as ‘the Force’ actually coincides with the ‘tao’ in the
tecture in 2003, 2004, and 2008. He says that this is Tao Te Ching. ‘Tao’ is manifested in our daily lives. For
37
帕斯卡在澳門創作「海」系列，此幅畫作名為〈長河漸落曉星沈〉。
Entitled Shining Stars of Macau, this painting is part of a series of
seascapes that Van der Graaf created in Macau.
38
能說荷蘭語、英語、國
台語的Sky，最喜歡與
父親帕斯卡一同創作。
The Van der Graafs’
daughter, Sky, speaks
Dutch, English, Mandarin,
and Taiwanese and
enjoys creating art with
her father.
像第二章講的『天下皆知美之爲美，斯惡已；皆 example, Chapter 2 of the Tao Te Ching elucidates the

知善之爲善，斯不善已』兩極的概念，不像西方 concept of opposites: ‘If everyone knows why beauty
is beautiful, ugliness must already exist; if everyone
文明強調善惡不可能共存，老子的說法十分有邏
knows why goodness is good, evil must also exist.’ This
輯，我完全可以與生活的經驗做連結。」
is unlike the idea prevalent in Western civilization that
有了創作靈感的帕斯卡，除了創作，也為在翻
good and evil cannot coexist. Laozi’s words make a lot
修、裝潢中古屋中找到志業的楊雅雯，提供藝術 of sense. They fully tally with my life experience.”
洞察力的建議，猶如絕地大師「尤達」的角色。 No longer short of inspiration, Van der Graaf not
楊雅雯與帕斯卡合作申請公共藝術，由楊雅雯負 only pursues his own creative activities but also offers
責寫計劃書，帕斯卡專責創作。楊雅雯說：「我 artistic advice to Yang, who has found her avocation in
十分崇拜他，他有無窮的創意與想法，不願意為 renovating and refurbishing old homes. His role is like
that of Yoda, the legendary Jedi master in Star Wars.
了取悅他人，改變自己。」兩人變成相契合作的
Yang and Van der Graaf have joined forces to apply
事業夥伴，猶如老子道德經所描述，「音聲相
for public art project funding: she wrote the proposal,
和，前後相隨。」 and he concentrates on creating the artworks. Husband
至於在台灣有沒有不習慣的事？帕斯卡想了 and wife now work closely together, reminding us of
想說：「台灣的麵包吃起來像海棉，又加了很多 Laozi’s adage: “Sound and voice harmonize with each
糖，有的馬茲拉起士吃起來像塑膠。」但他並不 other, front and rear follow each other.”
在意，而是很珍惜現在所擁有的。尤其是每當有 Van der Graaf is now a Taiwanese citizen. His wife
and father-in-law have given him a Chinese name:
人指著他說：「你是外國人。」已經歸化為台灣
Yang Wenzhi. Van der Graaf, who enjoys spending time
人，由太太與岳父共同取名為「楊文智」的帕斯
with his lovely son and daughter as well as creating
卡則可跟對方說：「我是台灣人。」
artworks, says: “Moving to Taiwan is the best choice I’ve
能夠在生活中陪伴可愛的兒女長大，以及享受 ever made.” l
創作的快樂，楊文智說：「搬到台灣，是我做過 (Esther Tseng/photos by Kent Chuang/
最好的決定了。」 l tr. by Brandon Yen)
39
封面故事　
COVER STORY
點亮樂生院
的一盞燈
谷寒松神父
A Beacon of Light
for Losheng Sanatorium
—Father Luis Gutheinz
文•蘇俐穎　圖•谷寒松提供　版面設計•馬英凱
初遇耶穌會神父谷寒松（Fr. Aloisius (Luis) Gutheinz

SJ），是在緊鄰輔仁大學校園旁的聖博敏神學院。有別於
外頭的人車喧嚷，清幽的園區中，清一色的灰色低矮建築
環繞著茵茵草木，呈顯出寧靜且莊嚴的美，而此地也是年
過八旬的他工作、居住大半輩子的所在。
O ur first meeting with the Jesuit priest Father Aloisius

“Luis” Gutheinz was at the Faculty of Theology of St.
Robert Bellarmine on the campus of Fu Jen Catholic University.
In contrast to the noisy streets outside, the faculty’s grounds are
a tranquil place of dignified beauty, featuring low grey build
ings surrounded by grass and trees. This is where the octogen
arian Father Gutheinz has lived and worked for most of his life.
慈善 Charity
40
林旻萱攝 photo by Lin Min-hsuan
41
高眉深目的谷寒松，日常喜愛戴著紳士帽，（左圖）谷寒松（左三）在20歲時加入耶穌會，照片為年輕
時與同儕的合影。
一看即知是「阿兜仔」的外貌，卻擁有著韻味十 (left) Father Aloisius “Luis” Gutheinz SJ (third from left) joined
the Society of Jesus when he was 20. The photo shows a young
足的中文名字，甚至能說一口讓人驚訝的流利華 Gutheinz with some of his peers.
語，還喜以「鄙人」謙稱，簡直比許多台灣人更
（右圖）谷寒松出生自虔誠天主教家庭，來到遠東的他與家
具中華文化遺風。人相距千里之遙，但深厚的親情依舊是他重要的支持。
會辭別故鄉，來到台灣落地生根，對他來說可 (right) Gutheinz (center) was born into a pious Roman Catholic
family. Since coming to East Asia he has been far away from
說是冥冥中註定。谷寒松回憶，出生於1933年的 them physically, but their deep attachment has always given him
valuable emotional support.
他，因生日與國父孫中山同一日，這讓母親對於
中華文化抱有相當好感。
他出生於一家十口，虔誠的天主教家庭，在20 尤其喜愛冬季白雪紛飛的時刻──他的中文老師
歲時便加入了耶穌會。學生時代的他，在學校時為他命名「谷寒松」。
聽到中國的教會因政治受迫害，深受觸動的他當「如果有一天，百年以前的人穿越時間來到現
下聽見耶穌的召喚：「Luis，你去中國。」這讓在，鐵定會被嚇一大跳。」谷寒松呵呵笑著回憶
谷寒松「一輩子不曾懷疑過一秒」的聖召，全然著當時神學院所在的板橋，還是一片油綠稻田，
改變了他的一生。如今高樓拔地林立，一旁的校園建築也不斷翻
新，早已是不同風景。
將信仰貫徹於生活作為神職人員的他，擔任樂生療養院聖威廉堂
彼時，因傳教士在中國的活動相當受限，谷司鐸長達數十年，同時還是一名宗教學者，擁有
寒松選擇來到同是華人為主的台灣。1961年，他羅馬宗座額我略大學神學博士的他，長年在輔仁
從荷蘭出發，繞行歐洲一大圈來到地中海，再經大學聖博敏神學院執教，並曾任研究所所長。他
過蘇伊士運河，進入印度洋，一路行經馬尼拉、的博士論文研究神學理論與實踐的關係，一輩子
新加坡與香港，最後從基隆上岸。這段漫長的旅都致力栽培後進，主持編譯、研究工作的他，可
程，花了五個禮拜時間。說是將信仰貫徹實踐到底。
他先在新竹華語學院學習中文。因他的老家位
在台灣，就像在家一樣
於奧地利的坦海姆（Tannheim），是座落在德奧
交界、阿爾卑斯山谷中長滿松樹的鄉間小鎮，他在台上主持彌撒的谷寒松，神情莊重而嚴肅，
42
With his deep-set eyes and trademark fedora, Fr. 88-year-old the secret to his health, vitality, and happi-
Aloisius Gutheinz SJ is immediately recognizable as ness, for him there is no doubt that everything is due
a foreigner. But he has a charming Chinese name and to the strength he draws from his faith. This power
speaks Chinese with remarkable fluency, and he likes not only arranged for him to come to a distant and un-
to refer to himself modestly with a traditional term familiar land, it also gives him great adaptability in all
meaning “your humble servant.” He is more of an heir circumstances.
to Chinese culture than many Taiwanese. Faced with the different dietary customs of East
Born into a pious Catholic family of ten, at age 20 and West, he has always been open-minded: “The only
Gutheinz joined the Society of Jesus. The previous things I don’t eat are steel and wood.” When learning
year, while still in high school, he had heard about the Chinese, a difficult language, he relished the challenge:
persecu tion of the Church in China after the Com-
munist takeover. Deeply moved, he immediately heard
a call from Jesus: “Luis, go to China.” This divine call-
ing, of which Gutheinz says, “I have never doubted （上圖）取得台灣身分證後，谷寒松幽默地為父母取了道地
的中文名字。（林旻萱攝）
it for a second in my entire existence,” completely (below) After being granted citizenship in Taiwan, Gutheinz
changed his life. humorously chose authentically Chinese names for his parents.
(photo by Lin Min-hsuan)
Practicing faith in daily life
At that time, because missionary activities were （下圖）相當喜歡戶外運動的谷寒松，不放棄在台灣上山下
highly restricted in China, Gutheinz elected to come to 海的機會，圖為他在日月潭游泳時所攝。
(bottom) Gutheinz is fond of outdoor activities, and takes
Taiwan, where people are likewise mainly ethnic Chi- advantage of opportunities for travel in Taiwan. He is pictured
nese. He set off from the Netherlands in 1961, and after a here swimming in Sun Moon Lake.
sea voyage of five weeks, ultimately arrived at Keelung.

First Gutheinz studied Chinese at the Chabanel
Language Institute in Hsinchu. Because he grew up in
a small alpine town called Tannheim on the Austrian–
German border, where there were many pine trees and
where he especially loved cold and snowy days, his
Chinese teacher gave him the name Gu Hansong, with
gu meaning “valley,” han meaning “cold,” and song
meaning “pine.”
Besides having a pastoral ministry at St. William
Catholic Church at Losheng Sanatorium for decades,
Gutheinz is also a religious scholar. With a doctorate
in theology from the Pontifical Gregorian University
in Rome, he taught for many years at the Fu Jen Fac-
ulty of Theology and served as dean of the Graduate
School of Theology. For his doctoral thesis he studied
the relation ship between the theory and practice of
theology. Having dedicated his life to training succeed-
ing generations and having overseen translation and
research work, one can indeed say that he has fully in-
tegrated his faith into daily life.
Taiwan is like home
When celebrating mass, Gutheinz is dignified and
serious, but privately he is an optimistic, cheerful, and
extremely popular elderly gentleman. If you ask this
43
私底下的他其實是一名樂觀開朗，極受歡迎的老不解之下，他向身邊的大妹谷寒梅傾訴，大妹反
人家。倘若詢問88歲的他健康活力、笑口常開的問：「你是不是想家了？」這才讓他恍然：「是
秘訣，毋庸置疑源自信仰的支持，這份力量不僅了，沒錯！我想台灣，想念在台灣的朋友。」
安排他來到人生地不熟的異鄉，也讓他有了隨遇「這是我這輩子唯一一次想『家』。」他笑著說。
而安的良好適應力。 2017年，谷寒松從當時的新北市副市長侯友
面對東西方大不相同的飲食習慣，他保持開宜手上接到台灣身分證，名正言順成為台灣一份
放：「除了鋼鐵、木材不吃。」學習起困難的中子，但在這以前，他的心早已緊緊深繫這片土
文，則興致勃勃：「幸好我很喜歡音樂，四聲對地，他的另一名言是：「我在台灣，就像在家一
我來說不算太困難。」小時在山裡長大的他，相樣。」
當喜愛戶外活動，去日月潭游過泳，還爬過20次
走入被遺忘的「樂生世界」
玉山。當我們問起長年離鄉背井的他，是否會想
念奧地利老家？他卻分享起一段往事。來台多年，谷寒松的另一重要貢獻是他對於痲
1970年，從台灣短暫來到羅馬攻讀碩士學位瘋病患的關懷服務。
的谷寒松，趁聖誕節前夕回到坦海姆的家，那個 1975年，他受到義大利籍李明德神父邀約，首
午後，待在老家的他忽然渾身不對勁，心中空盪次踏入位於迴龍的樂生療養院。彼時的痲瘋病尚
盪，仔細揣想，信仰上並沒有任何迷惘，在百思沒有根治藥物，雖然傳染性極低，但病患受到痲
瘋桿菌侵蝕，外貌駭人，加上大眾的重重誤解，
收容痲瘋病患的樂生就如同被主流社會所放逐的
禁忌之地。
谷寒松不避諱與病患接觸，朝夕共處。「在愛裡沒有懼怕」的谷寒松，對踏入樂生心
Gutheinz does not shy away from contact with Hansen’s
disease sufferers, and spends a lot of time with them. 中毫無芥蒂，但當他親眼目睹到多名病患擠在狹
窄髒亂、才幾坪大的空間，甚至精神疾病纏身，
備受衝擊的他倉皇找了藉口「逃回」神學院，到
聖堂裡痛哭禱告。
那當下，他想起大妹谷寒梅在20歲時曾經希望
能成為修女，到韓國服務痲瘋病人，但因碰上母
親驟逝，只好為了家人放棄夢想，「我立刻就明
白了，耶穌把妹妹的聖召放到我的肩膀上。」自
此以後，他以捨我其誰的心開始了四十多年來的
病友服務工作。
除了在樂生的聖威廉聖堂帶領彌撒，提供宗
教上的慰藉與指引，為了讓病友能感到由衷被接
納，他總不忌諱地與他們親密地握手、輕撫臉
龐，甚至一同用餐。
他也跨越宗教藩籬，與同個教區的佛教棲蓮
精舍、基督教長老教會聖望教會等團體合作，以
病患代言人之姿，向衛生署爭取合理、有尊嚴的
居住空間與醫療品質。對谷寒松來說，與教友、
非教友，甚至不同的宗教組織相處、甚至合作，
始終不成問題，「天主是愛，無論對方有什麼信
仰，他都是天主愛的對象，因此我也愛他。」他
44
“Fortunately I love music, so the four tones of Man- 奧地利的家人來台（右下圖），一同到樂生探訪病友，和睦
darin weren’t that difficult for me.” Having grown up 共處，猶如真正的一家人。
(bottom right) When family visited from Austria, they went with
in the mountains, he has always been fond of outdoor Gutheinz to call on HD patients at Losheng Sanatorium.
activities, and in Taiwan he has swum in Sun Moon
Lake, and has climbed Yushan (Mt. Jade) 20 times.
The forgotten world of Losheng
Another of Gutheinz’s important contributions personally saw 12 patients who were also suffering
during his time in Taiwan has been his pastoral care of from mental illness confined in small, dark rooms in a
people with Hansen’s disease (leprosy). tumbledown building, he was deeply shocked, and in
Gutheinz first visited Losheng Sanatorium in Xin- a panic he came up with an excuse to “flee” back to the
zhuang, New Taipei City in 1975, at the invitation of the Faculty of Theology, where he wept and prayed.
Italian priest Antonio Sacchettini. At that time there At that time, he thought about how when his elder
was no complete cure for Hansen’s disease (HD). Myco sister was 20, she had wanted to become a nun and go to
bacterium leprae, the bacillus that causes the disease, Korea to serve HD sufferers. But just then their mother
is not strongly contagious, but patients infected with suddenly died, and she had to abandon her dream for
it can become shockingly disfigured. For this reason, the good of the family. “I immediately understood that
along with many popular misconceptions about the Jesus had transferred my sister’s calling to me.” With
illness, Losheng, where patients were housed, became an attitude of “if I don’t do it, who will?” he has worked
a place of banishment from mainstream society. with HD patients for the past 40-plus years.
Gutheinz, for whom “there is no fear in love,” had Besides presiding over mass at t he St. William
no reservations about entering Losheng. But when he Catholic Church at Losheng, Gutheinz also provides
45
谷寒松收藏著幾大冊相
簿，其中包括許多與病
友的合影，每一位病友
的名字、背後的生命故
事，他都如數家珍。
（林旻萱攝）
Gutheinz’s photo
albums include many
pictures taken with HD
patients. He knows every
individual’s name and
remembers their life
stories in great detail.
(photo by Lin Min-hsuan)
理所當然地認為。「Good！」正是跟一名重病的病友學到的。
他還在院內舉辦過兩次園遊會，搭建起社會大隨著年事已高，谷寒松慢慢從一線崗位退下，
眾與病患的橋梁，消弭誤解，幫助病患走出封閉交棒給晚輩，但退而不休的他仍舊每日行程滿
的環境。檔，東奔西跑，甚至還有
這些辛勞付出漸漸有了果醞釀了30多年的研究待提
效，「現在人人都有一間套筆。他說：「我不忙，但
房，比我住得還更好。」曾有事。」甚至藉機說文解
有一位對他抱持反對意見的字：「『忙』是『心死
病友，後來也改口，告訴他亡』叫『忙』，我不要
療養院的環境是「全世界最死，我要活！」
好」，無不讓他備感欣慰。因為長壽的緣故，許多
與谷寒松一同長大的親
如天使行走人間
友，早已紛紛過世，他對
活到老、學到老的谷寒松，每天固定撥15分鐘
德蕾莎修女曾經說，慈此不無懷念：「如果到天
練習中文。（林旻萱攝）
善工作就是在最貧病、窮 Gutheinz has a lifelong passion for learning and 堂相聚，一定給他們大大
still sets aside 15 minutes every day to practice
苦、被遺棄人身上看見耶穌 Chinese. (photo by Lin Min-hsuan) 的擁抱。」但總是樂活在
的存在。谷寒松亦如此，真當下的他，也真摯地向身
心關愛病友的他，對每個旁的人強調：「多麼喜歡
病友，都詳熟地惦記著他們的名字、個性與相處和大家在一起。如果到天堂，應該也和在這裡差
的點點滴滴。他還稱這些與疾病奮鬥一生的勇者不多吧！」而與其說是活在人間樂土，倒不如
病患是他的「生命導師」，讓他從中學習靜默、說，是永遠朝氣蓬勃的谷寒松如同天使行走人
忍耐、勇氣與智慧的美德。谷寒松常掛在嘴邊的間，就像他為樂生所做的，不論到了哪裡，都為
口頭禪：「很好！很好！」、「好得很！」、人們帶來愛與希望，猶若天堂。 l
46
religious solace and guidance. To help the patients feel all their lives are his “mentors in life,” and that he has
sincerely accepted, he unreservedly shakes hands with learned from them the virtues of silence, forbearance,
them, gently touches their faces, and dines with them. courage, and wisdom.
He also has crossed over religious boundaries, work- As he has grown older, Gutheinz has gradually re-
ing with the Buddhist Qi Lian Jing She and the Sheng tired from the front lines and passed the baton to the
Wang Presbyterian Church in speaking on patients’ next generation. But despite his being retired, his daily
behalf to the Department of Health (now the Ministry schedule is just as packed as it ever was. He goes from
of Health and Welfare) to seek reasonable and dignified place to place, and he even has research projects that he
living conditions and quality healthcare. has been mulling over for 30 years or more waiting for
Their hard work has paid off. “Right now everyone him to take up his pen. He says, “I’m not busy, but I have
has their own room—it’s better than where I live!” he things to do.” He makes a play on words on the Chinese
says with gratification. character for “busy,” which is a combination of the radi-
Like an angel on earth cal for “heart” with a character for “death”: “Busy means
Mother Teresa once said that what underlies char- ‘the heart dies,’ but I don’t want to die, I want to live!”
ity work is seeing the existence of Jesus in the poor- Father Luis Gutheinz, always abounding in vitality,
est, sickest, and most forgotten. Gutheinz thinks the is like an angel come down to earth. Just as he has done
same way. He genuinely cares about the sick, and he for Losheng Sanatorium, everywhere he goes he brings
precisely recalls each patient’s name, personality, and love and hope to people, as if in heaven. l
details of their interactions. He has even said that these (Lynn Su/photos courtesy of Aloisius Gutheinz/
courage ous people who have struggled with illness tr. by Phil Newell)
天主的愛，讓谷寒松毫無芥蒂地與不同宗教團體相處，共為
病友謀福利。（林旻萱攝）
God’s love enables Gutheinz to cooperate unreservedly with
groups with different religious affiliations, working together to help
HD patients. (photo by Lin Min-hsuan)
47
我感
謝《
這片光華
土地》，
Th 上許
ank 因為
hav you
,
許多這道
e sh Taiw 多光，
『光 one a 瑰麗
upo n Pano 的吉華美
華』 n th ram 了
をよの光 is la a, fo
r th
光片
り美は台
n d for e lig 羽。
しく湾 so ht
（新照らの数々 many y you
我從北しての美 ear
s.
朱哲くれ
ますしい瞬
光著輝/
閱著腳ㄚ Jull
《光子到 ian
Ch 。間
為華華踩著 u, N
》，異國 ew
麗的因為土地 Tai
pei
I’ve 永恆它記翻 Cit
been 。錄剎 y）
from readi 那
m ng T 成
my t y ba aiwa
ime refo n Pa
ot yo noram
abro uth
mom
ent a a d , beca a ll the a for yea
nd m use i way rs,
裸足 akes t cap thro
ugh
の頃 it be ture
華』をから autif s the
読み異国 ully
eter
つを訪 nal.
華』は一づけるまれ
つのてきで『光
にと素晴まし
どめらした。
『光
てくい瞬
れま間を
（挪
威E す。永遠
ll isa
Yao
/ Ell
isaY
ao, No
rway
）
我在
海外
擁有 40年
《國的歲
法，家地月裡
以及理特別
雜誌喜愛
As s 《財》的《光
ome 富》雜內涵華》
fond one 、《
ness who 誌的，因
fo has
lived 編時代為它
Geog r Taiw
abro
排形》雜
raphic a n 式誌的
, wri Pano
r
ad fo 。寫
海外 ting ama
beca
r 40
に暮 like
Time use i
year
s, I h
んでらして , and t offer ave a
きま 40年 a lay s con part
フィした、いつ out li tent icula
r
ック。
『光も『
ke F
ortune
like
Natio
我的『フ』誌に華』の内光華 . nal
記憶ォー匹敵容』を楽
中有チュし、文は『しみ
章は『ナショナ
在美一片ン』誌に読
好的
更有年代裡
《光に匹タイルジ
著「華》敵しム』誌オグ
光華
除了，因ます、レイラ
Taiw
an P 」
美好為。アウ
an 的的記ト
mem
ori
o rama 輝煌。
憶，（美
國王は
es be ha
s its 福權
not cau own / Ke
only nt W
but my o se then spac
e in ang
, US
Taiw wn m I get my A）
an P emo to h
私の anora ries old o
m o f n to
記憶 a ’s br g ood
ありの中 illian
ce a
time
ますには『 s we s,
出。美し光華 ll.
ととい時』の世
もに
常に『代の、美界が
（台
光華』がしい思い
北徐あり
志蓮
/ Xu ます
Zhil
ia
。
n, T
aipe
i）
我喜閱《
光華》，
閱讀台灣因為它讓
的風土民我透過其
情與歷史他語言來
I love Tai 風采。
wan Panor
Taiwanes am a because
e trends, cu it lets me
oms, and st out read ab
外国語で history in
台湾の風 other lan
とができ土や民俗、 guages.
る『光華』歴史など
が大好きを読むこ
です。
（桃園
廖文安/
Daniel Li
ao, Taoy
uan）
感謝您陪同
《光華》四十年之久的故事旅行，
這些發自內心的真誠書寫，是《光
華》勇敢邁向新興階段的鼓舞與激
勵，在光陰韶華與世代變遷裡，我
們繼續一起迎風前行。
Thank you for accompanying us on

Taiwan Panorama ’s 40-year journalistic
odyssey. The heartfelt letters we have
received have encouraged us to be bold
in launching the magazine onto the next
leg of its journey, and we look forward
to traveling with you for years to come....
40年にわたる『光華』の物語ととも
に歩んでくださり、ありがとうござ
います。ここに寄せられた皆様の言
葉は、これから新しい時代に向けて
歩もうとする『光華』の大きな力に
なるものです。時代が変わっていく
中、これからも一緒に前進していき
たいと考えています。
請利用雜誌所附訂閱單或信用卡專用單訂閱。
To subscribe, please use the form in the back of the magazine.
お申込みには、本誌についている専用お申込書をご利用ください。
廣告
世界史是打出來的
好讀
月
◼ 兩個國境鄰接的國家之間，達成決議的事情，理所當然必須遵
從，但這兩個國家，卻經常發生許多對立與衝突。
◼ 在世界地圖上，看似和平共處的兩個國境相接的國家，往往都為
了國境、民族、資源等原因，在互相爭奪中變成了「敵國」。
節錄作者關真興前言
是一趟巡覽好文的旅程，
更是一回賞讀美篇的心靈停駐……
也是一段遍閱佳構的遨遊，
俄羅斯vs烏克蘭：克里米亞半克里米亞半島開始受到世人矚
島合併的背景目，是在二 ○ 一四年爆發的一次
各位在高中時學習世界史的時事件。俄羅斯併吞克里米亞半島，
候，我想克里米亞半島應該只出這對現代國際關係而言，簡直是如
現兩次。「晴天霹靂」一般讓人震驚。
第一次出現時，一定是在「克里這個事件，讓世人們聚焦在統
米亞戰爭」。這場戰役打響了主要治克里米亞半島的國家，也就是
戰場塞凡堡要塞的名聲，戰爭當「烏克蘭」。克里米亞半島遭到俄
中，由於南丁格爾的活躍，成為日羅斯併吞一事，可以說是改寫戰
後國際紅十字會成立的契機，這些後歷史的一個大事件。第二次世
內容應該有人還記得。界大戰之後，從來沒有一個大國
另外一次，就是在「雅爾達會敢如此明目張膽，擅自「變更領
議」。第二次世界大戰後，美、英、土」。但是，俄羅斯的普欽政權，
蘇三國召開這場會談，討論日後的卻做出這樣的事情。
國際秩序，而會談的場所就是克烏克蘭的起始
里米亞半島上的雅爾達。首先，讓我們先來確認烏克蘭
作者／關真興
書名：世界史是打出來的
作者：關真興
譯者：李建銓　
頁數：344頁　
定價：420元
出版時間：2021年4月
出版：漫遊者文化
的地理位置。抵達伊斯坦堡，這條貿易航路名為
希臘的巴爾幹半島與土耳其的「瓦蘭格之路」。
小亞細亞（安那托利亞）半島，包十到十一世紀，弗拉基米爾一區的名稱，直到二十世紀都尚未成

圍起來的海域即是愛琴海。從愛世統治基輔．羅斯，與拜占庭帝國為國名。
琴海穿過達達尼爾海峽和博斯普關係密切，勢力範圍遠播至保加利俄羅斯併吞烏克蘭
魯斯海峽（伊斯坦堡沿岸），就可亞，是國力最強大的全盛時期。一波羅的海三小國最南端是立陶
以看見寬闊的黑海。克里米亞半島直到他的兒子雅羅斯拉夫一世的宛，西南方是波蘭，這兩個國家都
位在黑海北部，是一個中央部位時代，國家仍舊相當繁榮。然而，因為俄羅斯及德國的侵略，長久
凸出的半島。到了十二世紀，諸侯開始自立門以來為其所苦。然而，在中世紀時
克里米亞半島西北部，有一條戶，整個國家迎向分裂與弱化，到期，立陶宛和波蘭的國力曾經相當
巨大的河川流入黑海，同時貫穿烏了十三世紀難以避免遭受蒙古統強盛，甚至還統治過波羅的海及
克蘭中心部位，名字叫做聶伯河。治的命運。黑海這一整片地區。兩國在十五世
這條河川連結了波羅的海和黑海，「烏克蘭」這個名稱，最初出現紀共戴一君，也就是波蘭歷史上
形成一條重要的航路。最廣為人是在十二世紀，但是當地民族主義的亞蓋洛王朝，統治了烏克蘭和白
知的事例，就是諾曼人利用這條精神，直到十九世紀才開始萌芽。俄羅斯等地。
航路，從波羅的海出發，經過黑海長久以來，「烏克蘭」僅是一個地此時，居住於烏克蘭以及俄羅
51
斯南方的高加索一帶的哥薩克蘭，全面禁止使用烏克蘭語，當地烏克蘭獨立──克里米亞半島
（俄語意為流浪者）民族，自成一徹底實施俄羅斯化。當時，俄羅的紛爭
個社會體制。史稱他們為「自由農斯、德國和奧地利，這三個國家瓜史達林過世後隔年，一九五四
民」，由於俄羅斯本土的農奴制度分了波蘭，其中奧地利取得加利西年，為了回應烏克蘭境內日益增強
日漸嚴苛，許多農民群起反彈，加亞地區，由於統治風格較為自由，的民族主義聲浪，蘇聯藉著紀念
上一些犯罪者和沒落貴族，組成了該地就成為烏克蘭民族主義的中簽定佩列亞斯拉夫協議三百週年
這個團體。這些哥薩克人建立了心。但是，加利西亞地區在第一次的機會，將克里米亞半島割讓給烏
獨特的軍事組織，並且採取民主世界大戰時，曾經遭到俄羅斯軍隊克蘭。
制度來運作。占領，烏克蘭的民族主義勢力也受一九八六年，烏克蘭發生車諾比
不久，哥薩克民族又對波蘭的統到徹底的鎮壓。核災事件，這個事件雖然使得改革
治感到不滿，相對地，由於俄羅斯一九一七年，隨著俄羅斯二月的速度加快，但國內東部以俄羅斯
承認哥薩克擁有自治權，他們轉革命爆發，烏克蘭民族組成政治人居多，西部大多是烏克蘭人，這
向臣服於沙皇。在一六五四年的組織，宣布獨立。但是十月革命些地緣政治相關問題導致烏克蘭
佩列亞斯拉夫協議中，哥薩克與後，俄羅斯革命政府派遣軍隊前共產黨內部，基輔派（烏克蘭）和
俄羅斯達成這項共識。往鎮壓。在德軍入侵俄羅斯之後，莫斯科派（俄羅斯）的對立愈發激
到了十七世紀，烏克蘭面臨一俄領波蘭成為革命軍與反革命軍烈。
個極大的轉機。對於烏克蘭反抗內戰的主要戰場，相對地，奧領加到了一九九一年，烏克蘭終於獨
波蘭統治，展開各種鬥爭行動時，利西亞地區的烏克蘭人也發起獨立建國。除了加盟俄羅斯主導的
莫斯科大公國提供支援與波蘭作立運動，烏克蘭陷入極度混亂的獨立國協，同時也與西方各國建
戰，最後雙方約定聶伯河以西屬局面。立更緊密的關係。
於波蘭擁有，東部地區則成為俄一九二 ○ 年代，烏克蘭境內興眾所矚目的克里米亞半島，在
羅斯領土。其後，烏克蘭依附於俄起一股反帝政勢力，同時強力推一九九七年，俄羅斯也承認該地屬
羅斯，繼續施行自治體制。動恢復使用烏克蘭語，以及回歸於烏克蘭。另外，烏克蘭憲法規定
十八世紀初，俄羅斯發動大北方烏克蘭文化的運動。然而，到了克里米亞半島是烏克蘭唯一的自
戰爭，烏克蘭企圖趁機獨立，和瑞一九三 ○ 年代，烏克蘭又再度強治共和國，這一次，普欽總統採取
典結盟與俄羅斯作戰，最後戰敗制施行俄羅斯化。而且在這段期強迫的政策，形式上舉行公民投
導致俄羅斯加強對烏克蘭的拘束，間內，蘇聯政府開始強制徵收烏票，但是做法和過去專政主義時
哥薩克民族也因此失去原有的自克蘭的穀物，烏克蘭農民群起抗代毫無改變，都是以大國的勢力來
由。議，甚至將做為「生產工具」的欺壓小國。
十八世紀末期，波蘭再度遭到瓜動物殺害，造成一場「人為」大飢另外，烏克蘭西部國境與聶斯
分，原屬波蘭領有的烏克蘭成為荒，據說有數百萬至一千萬農民特共和國相接。這個聶斯特河沿
俄羅斯的領地，從此開始，烏克蘭因此餓死。時至今日，烏克蘭稱岸的細長國家，在國際上認定這個
全境都歸俄羅斯所有。這個事件為「烏克蘭大飢荒」，國家應屬於摩爾多瓦共和國（位
徹底鎮壓與俄羅斯化歐美各國將其定義為「種族屠於烏克蘭與羅馬尼亞之間）的一
在俄羅斯帝國統治下的烏克殺」。部分，此次趁著烏克蘭問題的機
52
會，他們也和烏克蘭東部的俄羅初，此地遭到俄羅斯占領，重新命摩爾多瓦的民族主義精神再度復
斯人一樣，主張脫離烏克蘭，並加名為比薩拉比亞。俄羅斯革命後，燃，隨著蘇聯瓦解，摩爾多瓦共和
入俄羅斯。蘇聯與羅馬尼亞為了比薩拉比亞，國也宣布獨立。聶斯特河沿岸比
這個與烏克蘭相鄰的摩爾多瓦展開複雜的軍事角力，最後蘇聯摩爾多瓦具有經濟能力，而且國民
共和國，居民基本上都是羅馬尼亞徹底阻止羅馬尼亞再度統一摩爾全體幾乎都是親俄羅斯派。因為
民族，而且中世紀羅馬尼亞人曾多瓦。俄羅斯而產生的第二個克里米亞
在此建立摩爾多瓦公國。十九世紀但是，在蘇聯改革的過程中，問題，或許將發生在此處。
解鎖！北號誌樓作者／謝明勳
◼ 港口與鐵道，是高雄最具代表性的歷史符號。
◼ 舊鐵道平行的輕軌捷運，代表著過去的環狀臨港線重獲新生的意象，成為市
民全新的風景；輕軌將承襲過往鐵道榮光，運載高雄市民繼續往未來前進。
◼ 讓我們典藏城市的鐵道記憶，解鎖高雄港站北號誌樓的故事。
節錄高雄市長陳其邁序言
黎明前的北號誌樓一陣呼叫。不過，對6 01次這種長途的貨物
199 6年7月的某一個半夜，牆上「高雄港，601次下行接近！」列車來講，有時候中途各站裝載
的時鐘指著4點10分，天花板幾盞「收到，601次，你等一下進入 A 貨物，或是列車編組拆解、加掛，
日光燈照亮北號誌樓二樓，值班線2股準備停車。」延誤一些時分，算是家常便飯。六
的副站長和號誌員，正忙著監視高 6 0 1次是從七堵開來的貨物列分鐘的延誤，算是貨物列車的日
雄港站列車進出及調車轉線的動車，終點站是高雄港站，表定時間常啦，不值得大驚小怪。偶爾也有
態，室內感覺相當悶熱，走出戶外 4點08分抵達。列車長用無線電呼像昨天的 6 01次，因為沿途貨物較
的緣廊，才感覺一絲微微的涼風。叫「高雄港站，接近！」的地方，是少，停靠時間縮短，竟然提前一個
這時，掛在靠鐵路側東面牆上的剛從鼓山站開出來，大約在北斗街鐘頭抵達呢！
「列車接近警報器」嗡嗡作響，幾平交道附近，這樣看來，等一下進高雄港站和台灣其他兩百多個
乎是同一時間，行車無線電也傳來站的時候，大概是晚六分鐘。火車站不一樣，是專門的貨運車
53
站，貨物不需要睡覺，所以高雄港港站出發，開往彰化的普通貨物列
站最繁忙的時間，不是正常人類車，沿途停靠鼓山、左營、楠梓、
清醒的時段，而是半夜時分，尤其岡山、台南、隆田 …… 等站。列車
是3點到5點之間，許多從七堵、彰一路上會摘掉，及掛上各種不同的
化開來的班次，陸續抵達；而北上貨車，例如鼓山站有台灣水泥公司
列車也正好編組完成，準備出發。的水泥斗車，左營、楠梓站有中油
水銀燈從高聳的鐵架燈塔，照公司的油罐車，岡山站有敞車、蓬
射在遼闊的站場，從五福四路平車、石斗車和空軍的油罐車，台南
交道、高雄港檢車分段，到南邊的站有裝運公賣局酒瓶的蓬車，隆
扇形機關庫，帶著慘白的色調。田站有被叫做「黃小玉」的蓬斗車書名：解鎖！北號誌樓

作者：謝明勳
「機外」是「進站號誌機外方」等等。
頁數：206頁　
的簡稱，進站號誌機是定義「站「黃小玉」是台鐵員工對裝載定價：380元
出版時間：2021年2月
內」與「站外」的界線，就像日本黃豆、小麥、玉米貨車的暱稱；從
出版：高雄市政府文化局、
傳統神社的鳥居，人走過鳥居之國外進口的黃小玉，卸在高雄港玉山社
後，就算是進入神聖的「境內」。 7 2 號碼頭散裝穀倉，再一一裝入
這樣看來，北號誌樓後面的壽山蓬斗車，經臨港線轉縱貫線，運往
上，也有一座從高雄神社大鳥居改永康、新市、善化、隆田等站的沙
造而來的忠烈祠牌樓，可以把它看拉油工廠、醬油工廠、飼料工廠等色的「機械閘柄」一字排開，機械
作是區分仙境內外的界限呢！的專用側線。閘柄前方木地板上，嵌入一顆顆圓
當高雄港站內還在進行調車作因為整串 612次貨物列車，是由形的「電鍵」，經年累月的踩踏，
業，或是路線被其他列車佔用，這載運各種不同貨物，不同目的地的已被磨得閃閃發亮，露出黃銅的
時候，進站號誌機會顯示紅燈，或貨車組成，所以出發前，必須在高色澤。在二十七支機械閘柄的後
是臂木式號誌機呈現水平狀態。雄港站構內，按照每節貨車到達方，是一整排上油的「聯鎖盤」，
火車司機看到，就知道是「險阻」站的先後順序，完成列車編組。將垂直交錯的鎖簧桿和縱鎖簧桿，
的意思，即將進站的列車，必須在一節一節的貨車，在不同股道間拉就像許多組複雜的竹竿舞竹竿，
進站號誌機外方停車，等候進站來推去，前後移動，最後連掛成一看起來非常壯觀。　　
許可。列「雜牌軍」，是攀附在貨車跳上火車不像汽車，火車沒有方向
「構內」是從日本時代沿用至今跳下的調車工，和駕駛調車機車的盤，而是藉著扳轉地面的轉轍器，
的鐵道用語，指的是通過進站號司機，最主要的工作。來決定道岔開通的方向。當尖軌
誌機之後（內方）的站場範圍，也再回到北號誌樓二樓，看號誌靠密在主要鐵軌內側，火車的車
就是「站內」的意思。構內的調車員如何操作這套繁複的路線控制輪就會順著尖軌改變行進方向，
作業，從某一股軌道，轉進另一股和號誌系統。進入另一條股道；或是尖軌不靠
軌道，是北號誌樓值班人員要監北號誌樓的二樓，最主要的地密，與主要鐵軌產生一個間隔，車
控的重要工作。方是北半邊的號誌作業區，二十七輪就會沿著主要鐵軌的方向，繼
612次，是表定 4 點12 分從高雄支寫有不同編號，漆著藍色和白續前行。一般來說，道岔設定在
54
列車經常行走的方向，叫開通「定機械閘柄聯鎖盤後方的黑色「電鎖以45k m/h r以下的速度，越過進站
位」；若是設定讓火車開往左邊，盒」會暫時解鎖，號誌員順勢踩壓號誌機，穿過噹！噹！噹！閃著紅
或往右邊，則是開通「反位」。用力，就可以扳動機械閘柄。燈的五福四路平交道。接著一路
以高雄港站這麼龐大複雜的站號誌員一一扳動四支機械閘柄，往左邊拐，先通過橫渡線，再往左
場來說，要從站內某一股道出發，待開通進路後，再扳轉1號電氣閘邊拐橫渡線，最後來到轉轍器，進
開出站外，一路必須經過好幾處柄，這時，壽山下的1號進站號誌入A線群。
道岔，這些道岔的轉轍器彼此有連機黃燈一閃一閃，司機看到後，右高聲電話就安裝在北號誌樓二
動關係，可開通一致的路徑，沿途臂伸直向前，手指進站號誌機，大樓緣廊窗邊，可以將號誌員的指
各處轉轍器同時鎖錠，不能任意聲喊出「緩速進站！」，坐在右邊令，傳送到遠方道岔現場的喇叭，
扳轉，我們稱為「聯鎖」。以縱貫的助理司機員也舉手指向前方，複讓現場工作人員清楚聽到，這是
線上行列車為例，從高雄港站B線誦「緩速進站！」，這是承襲自日還沒有行車調度無線電的時代，
1股道出發，必須依序通過四處道本時代，鐵路運轉人員特有的「指號誌樓和現場人員之間連絡，最
岔。才算離開高雄港站，駛入縱貫差確認」傳統，現在則稱作「呼喚有效率的方式。
線的上行正線。應答」，希望藉由眼到、手到、口靠東面的窗邊，還有一部笨重，
北號誌樓的號誌員，也要依序操到、心到，消彌人為失誤，確保鐵整台漆著朱紅色，非常醒目的「電
作機械閘柄，用腳踩下閘柄前方地路行車安全。氣路牌閉塞機」，箱體前方寫著
板上，圓形銅質的「電鍵」，這時 601次下行列車再次緩緩開動，「前鎮」，是作為高雄港站和前鎮
車場之間，臨港線專用的行車號
誌設備。由於這個區間是單線，無
法交會，同一時間只能容許一列車
行駛，因此，藉由高雄港和前鎮之
間的電氣通信聯鎖，一次只能取
出一塊上頭刻有「高雄港、前鎮」
的銅質路牌。號誌員從閉塞機下
方取出路牌後，放進一個大圈圈的
路牌套內，走到外面緣廊，綁在繩
子上垂降到地面，交給司機，司機
確認路牌區間後，作為進入臨港
線出發，開往前鎮的憑證。
一陣忙碌之後，時鐘指針已經
走到 5 點，夏天太陽起得特別早，
從高雄港站北號誌樓的緣廊，望
向東邊，可以看到日頭緩緩從北大
武山後面升起，照亮了整個遼闊的
高雄港站。
55
影像對話　PHOTO ESSAY
56
Old Markets, New Soul
圖／文•林格立　版面設計•王敬勛
57
新竹東門市場上午仍維持傳統市場的運作，店家與顧客除了做買賣也會閒話家常。
Hsinchu’s Dongmen Market still functions as a traditional market in the morning. In addition to
conducting business, vendors and customers enjoy chatting with each other.
58
新竹東門市場
Dongmen Market, Hsinchu City
小時候的家就住在市
場裡，樓下是爸爸開的
冰店，每天上午那些來市
場採買的人，渴了累了總
會到店裡歇歇腳，喝杯果
汁兼吃碗冰。生意空檔，
爸爸也會帶我到市場走一
圈，問我今天想吃什麼？
這個父子間的習慣，一直
到我長大出社會，開始工
作了都還維持著，只要我
有空回老家，就會陪父親
到市場逛逛。
A s a child I lived in a
ma rket d i st r ic t. My
father ran an ice shop on the
ground floor of our house.
Mor n i ng shoppers at t he
market would visit us for
fruit juice and shaved ice
while enjoying a moment’s
peace and quiet. When he
wasn’t busy, my father would
take me round the market,
buying me whatever foods
I fancied. This father-and-
son ritual survived into my
adulthood. Whenever I had a
few days off and returned to
my hometown, I would pay
a visit to the market with my
father.
59
新竹東門市場
Dongmen Market, Hsinchu City
入夜後的東門市場，搖身一變成為各國美食小餐館。
Each evening, Dongmen Market transforms itself into a collection of eateries offering international cuisine.
60
或許是成長過程的記憶，我對於傳統市 It is probably because of these childhood memories that
I have a soft spot for traditional markets. A market is not
場有一份特殊的情感，在市場裡人與人之間
merely where people conduct business. It is a place where
不只是單純的買賣行為，更多的是親切與
kindness and hospitality abound. Nowadays many people
人情。現在因為大賣場的興起，加上停車方
prefer to visit superstores that offer convenient parking,
便，消費者自然轉移到賣場，一次購足生活 where they can get all they want in one go. As a result, tradi-
所需用品，傳統市場也就日趨沒落。 tional markets have been in decline.
61
62
台中忠信市場
Zhongxin Market, Taichung City
曾經是熱鬧鼎盛的新竹東門市場， Hsinchu City’s once-prosperous Dongmen Market

現在上午依舊維持著傳統市場的功能， still functions as a traditional market in the mornings.
Most visitors are faithful old customers; you do not come
來採買的大多是一些商家的老顧客，難
across many young people here at this time of day. In or-
得會見到年輕人來到這個場域。為了活
der to revitalize the historic market, the city government
化這座老市場，這幾年新竹市政府引進
has offered youngsters incentives to set up shop here.
了年輕人進駐開店，並且逐漸發展成了 Some of these new establishments have attained celeb-
網紅名店，到了傍晚，傳統市場華麗轉 rity status online. Every evening, the traditional market
身，成了各國特色美食小餐館，也吸引 meta morphoses into a conglomeration of characterful
了年輕族群上門光顧。 international eateries, attracting many young customers.
台中忠信市場老舊的空間氛圍，吸引了年輕人來這邊尋幽探密。
Taichung’s Zhongxin Market exudes an old-world charm that entices young explorers.
63
台中金典綠園道第六市場
Sixth Market, Park Lane by Splendor, Taichung City
百貨商城業者，複製傳統市場模式到賣場去，提供了更舒適的購物環境，也保留了傳統市場的人情味。
Some shopping malls have replicated the model of traditional markets, offering a more pleasant shopping environment
and recapturing old-time hospitality.
台灣各地的老市場，這幾年也都陸 To cater to the tastes and habits of the younger generations, old
續在轉型或改裝，迎合新世代的消費 markets across Taiwan have been undergoing transformation or
refurbishment in recent years. Some shopping malls have even
習慣，也有百貨商場把傳統市場整個
deliberately modeled themselves on traditional markets, provid-
複製過去，提供了更好的購物環境，
ing a better shopping environment and recreating a sense of old-
也保留了傳統市場的人情味。每個世
time hospitality. In a traditional market, people of all ages can find
代都可以在各自的生活體驗中，找到 something that is ordinary but that plucks at the heartstrings. l
跟市場的那份美好連結。 l (photos and text by Jimmy Lin/tr. by Brandon Yen)
64
65
全球視野　GLOBAL OUTLOOK
鳴個喇叭！華新街
讓你一秒到緬甸
66
Mingalar Par!
—Welcome to Little Burma
文•蘇俐穎　圖•林旻萱　版面設計•王敬勛
踏入新北中和的華新街，像瞬間穿越某個神
奇結界。街上整齊劃一的店招，除了中文以外，
同時書寫著讓人陌生的緬文；空氣中瀰漫著檸
檬、咖哩的濃郁香氣；市場中及賣店裡，販售洛
神葉、酸木瓜、水醃菜等不容易見到的東南亞蔬
果食材；街上人潮絡繹，騎樓下排開的桌椅坐滿
了人，你看看我，我看看你。
「鳴個喇叭！」（Mingalar par）我用緬甸話
的「你好」向人打了聲招呼，一同加入這流動的
風景。
雙和地區人口組成多元，除了許多韓國華僑、
大陳義胞與金門鄉親，這裡也是全台緬甸華僑人
口最集中的地方。台灣目前一共14萬的緬甸華
僑人口，雙和便占了4萬，他們主要的聚集的地
方，就在華新街。
A s I set foot onto Huaxin Street in New Taipei

City’s Zhonghe District, it is like finding myself
transported to another world. The street is lined with
stores and signs adorned not only with Chinese, but
also with unfamiliar Burmese script. The sidewalks
are full of people, and under the storefront verandas
people sit around, watching the world go by.
“Mingalar par!” I greet the locals in Burmese,
and with that, become just another part of the ever-
changing landscape here.
Travel to Nanshijiao Station, the final stop on the

Orange Line of the Taipei Metro, and then head south
along Xingnan Road a while, and you will find yourself
at Huaxin Street. The street itself is less than 500 meters
long, with columns at either end that read “South Seas
Tourist Food Street” in Chinese. However, people are
67
騎樓下的座位坐滿人，熱絡的談天聲不絕於耳，生活小物。」在華新街上長大的緬甸華僑第二代
這是華新街的日常。
Tables under storefront verandas full of both people and
楊萬利這麼說。倘若想進一步認識華新街，不妨
conversation are a common sight on Huaxin Street. 就從這一杯緬甸奶茶開始。
對於一日不可無奶茶的緬甸華僑來說，奶茶是
生活必備品，奶茶店是社交、休閒的重要場所。
曾有緬甸華僑這麼說：「台灣人談生意，都在辦
從捷運中和新蘆線末站的南勢角站下車，沿興公室；緬甸人談生意，都在奶茶店。」他們在這
南路前進，就來到華新街。短短不到500公尺的裡聯絡情感、交換情報、議論時事。
街道，路口高聳的柱子上，寫著「南洋觀光美食聚集了大量緬甸華僑的華新街，奶茶隨處可
街」，但更多人習慣稱這裡「緬甸街」。40餘家見，除了短短一條街上有六家奶茶專賣店，兼賣
的商店，販售道地的緬甸小吃，還有雲南擺夷料奶茶的小吃店，幾乎百分之百。想喝杯奶茶，隨
理，甚至是印度小吃、泰國菜與港式飲茶，多元手可得。
文化共冶一爐的現象，悄然挑起了人們的好奇。從一杯奶茶，還能認識緬甸錯綜複雜的歷史。
稍微觀察一下便能發現，緬甸奶茶常又被稱作印
巴黎有左岸咖啡館，緬甸有奶茶店
度奶茶；這是由於過往緬甸受英國殖民所留下來
巴黎有左岸咖啡館，中國有茶館，在緬甸，則的文化遺風；也因當時，英國人將緬甸、印度同
有奶茶店。「這一杯奶茶，可以看作是緬甸社交樣劃入「英屬印度」範圍，造成緬甸的印度移民
68
一小碟淋著煉乳的印度烤餅，搭配一杯香濃醒腦的緬
甸奶茶，是緬僑們最熟悉的日常早點。
A small plate of chapati topped with condensed milk and
a cup of refreshing Burmese milk tea is a typical breakfast
for many Burmese-Taiwanese.
As a congregating place for Burmese-Taiwanese,

Huaxin Street abounds with milk tea. Not only are
there six shops dedicated to selling the drink, it is
also available at virtually every single restaurant
and snack shop. So if you feel the need for a cup of
milk tea, you’ll never be too far from one.
That same milk tea can provide a lesson on
the history of Myanmar. Looking around a little,
one will find Burmese milk tea also referred to as
Indian milk tea. This is because Myanmar’s tea cul-
ture was influenced by British colonization, and the
British Empire considered Myanmar part of “British
India.” Consequently there was considerable Indian
immigration into Myanmar, and these immigrants
fell in love with Burmese milk tea. A great number
of them opened their own tea shops, leading many
to call Burmese milk tea “Indian milk tea.”
While Myanmar’s milk tea culture may be a
result of international mobility, within the country
it also underwent its own localized evolution. The
more familiar with its nicknames of “Myanmar Street” and Burmese didn’t have a taste for the spices used
“Little Burma.” It is home to more than 40 eateries selling au- in Indian masala chai tea, so they chose to forgo
thentic Burmese food, along with Yunnan Dai cuisine, and even them, and with fresh milk difficult to come by in
Indian snacks, Thai food, and Hong-Kong-style dim sum. This Southeast Asia, they replaced it with creamer and
culinary melting pot has piqued the curiosity of many a visitor. condensed milk. While a cup of Burmese milk tea
As coffee is to Paris, so milk tea is to Myanmar comprises just three simple elements—Burmese
Paris is famous for its cafes on the Left Bank of the Seine black tea, creamer, and condensed milk—within
and China for its tea houses. When it comes to Myanmar, the that small, simple cup is a sample of the convoluted
equivalent is milk tea shops. “This cup of milk tea can be seen history and multi-ethnic background of Myanmar.
as a part of the Burmese way of socializing.” So says Lily Yang, Passport to the past
a second-generation Burmese-Taiwanese who grew up on Come and have a cup of Burmese milk tea!
Huaxin Street. If you want to learn more about this street, the Since the Burmese-Taiwanese who live near
best way to start would be with a cup of Burmese milk tea. Huaxin Street are generally blue-collar workers
For Burmese-Taiwanese, milk tea is a daily necessity, and who work shifts rather than stable nine-to-fives,
milk tea shops are important places for socializing and relax- the eateries here are always packed. As we step
ing. It has been remarked that when Taiwanese talk business, into Liyuan Halal Food, despite it being 10 a.m.
they do it in the office; when Burmese talk business, they do the small restaurant is already full of people with
it in the milk tea shop. They come to these shops to connect, plates of chapati and cups of Burmese milk tea at
exchange information, and discuss current events. their tables, ready to start the day.
69
大增，緬甸奶茶格外受印度人喜愛，紛紛做起奶點。當年緬甸的尼溫將軍主導的軍政府開始實施
茶生意，故後來緬甸奶茶常又被稱作印度奶茶。一連串對外國人不友善的「國有化」政策，華人
飲奶茶的風氣，是全球化下的結果，但緬甸奶經營的店鋪一夕之間收歸國有，華人的報社與學
茶，也經過了在地化的演變。由於緬甸人不喜印校也紛紛關閉，由政府統一接管。
度奶茶濃郁的香料味，故捨棄不用，且東南亞地既不想接受被同化的命運，也為了下一代尋找
區鮮乳取得不易，改以奶精、煉乳取而代之。一出路，緬僑開始紛紛出走海外，形成大規模的移民
杯緬甸奶茶，單純由緬甸紅茶、奶精（奶水）、潮。包括中國、印尼、馬來西亞、美國、台灣，都
煉乳三元素組成，小小一杯，卻濃縮了緬甸曲折是選項，其中又以移民到台灣的人數最多。
的歷史，以及多族群的背景。走一趟華新街便知。這兒的氛圍，不如桃園龍
岡、南投清境泰緬孤軍組成的義民聚落，流露出濃
食物裡的身世密碼
烈的愛國氛圍。因著緬甸華僑過往都必須在緬人為
來喝一杯緬甸奶茶吧！因著住在華新街鄰近主流的社會中求生存，文化風俗深受浸染，自然而
的緬甸華僑大多是輪班制的藍領，而非朝九晚五然，華新街上也籠罩著濃濃的緬甸在地氣息。
的上班族，讓這兒的店家隨時都是人聲鼎沸的狀
態。我們踏入了街上的「李園清真小吃」，雖然
名小吃，但早上十點鐘，館子內已是人聲鼎沸，
許多人的桌前正是一碟印度烤餅、一杯緬甸奶熟門熟路的緬甸華僑、華新街商圈發展協會理事長張標材，
茶，就此作為一日的開場。帶著我們認識這個特別又美麗的台北小角落。
Aung Win, a Burmese-Taiwanese who is very familiar with Little
在這熱絡的氛圍之下，與我們閒話家常的緬僑 Burma and is the chairman of the Huaxin Street Business District
Development Association, shows us around this wonderful corner
耆老告訴我們，1962年是他們生命中重要的記憶 of New Taipei City.
70
Amid this lively atmosphere, the elderly Burmese
who chat with us tell us how 1962 is an important
point in their memories. That was when the Burmese
military govern ment, led by General Ne Win, began to
implement a series of nationalization policies that were
hostile to people of non-Burmese ancestry. Stores run
by ethnic Chinese were taken into government control
overnight, while newspapers and schools focused on
the ethnic Chinese community were shuttered as the
government took over.
Not willing to resign themselves to assimilation
and wanting to find some hope for the next generation,
Burmese people of Chinese ethnicity began leaving the
country in droves. Many headed for China, Indonesia,
Malaysia, or the United States, but the destination that
saw the largest number of new arrivals was Taiwan.
Immigrant life was not easy. When they arrived in
Taiwan, many of them found living so far from their
native country difficult and had a hard time adapting
their lifestyles, including how they ate. Over time, just
as Chinese migrants began opening restaurants and
eventually creating Chinatowns in other countries, two
eateries selling Yunnanese and Burmese food opened up
on Huaxin Street some 40 years ago, their compatriots
lining up for a taste of home. Thus was the first incarna-
tion of “Myanmar Street” born.
If you look closely at the signs that line the street, you
will see that the names of the eateries often combine Bur-
mese place names and different culinary traditions, rang-
ing from Yunnan Dai cuisine and Hong-Kong-style yum
cha to Indian and Thai food. Each establishment’s name
is a password that unlocks some insight into the owner’s
ancestry and background, part of a collective echo of
the cultural and ethnic diversity of Myanmar. With
Myanmar sharing borders with China, Thailand, Laos,
India, and Bangladesh, people and cultures have flowed
constantly between the nation and its neighbors in the
past. Myanmar itself is also home to over a hundred dif-
ferent ethnic groups, along with ethnic Chinese whose
茶葉沙拉飯、咖喱飯、魚湯麵，道地的緬甸小吃香氣足、口
味重，引人食指大動。
Pickled tea-leaf salad (lahpet thoke), curry rice, fish soup with
noodles (mohinga)—Burmese snacks are rich in both aroma and
taste, true attractions for the appetite.
71
市場旁由緬僑開的雜貨鋪，販售許多罕見的異國香初次拜訪華新街的人，常會不明就裡，以為這
料、調味料。
Burmese grocery stores by the market sell many exotic 是一條包山包海的異國小吃街，但乍看五花八門
spices and seasonings.
的店家背後，無不都在訴說每一個緬僑在大歷史
洪流之中，獨一無二的生命故事。
從緬甸回來的人
移民生活大不易。來到台灣的他們，除了飽受華新街上流傳著一個詞：「緬麻綁」
離鄉背井之苦，生活習慣也難以適應，飲食也是（M y a n m a p y a n），即緬語的「從緬甸回來的
其中之一。自然而然地，就像華人在海外紛紛開人」。在來台灣以前，這群不曾在台灣生活的緬
起了中國餐廳，形成唐人街的風景。40年前，有僑，因為國族上的認同情感，將「移民」來台的
兩家店開始在華新街鄰近賣起滇緬小吃，老鄉們遷徙，視為是一種「歸國」，故稱自己叫「緬甸
爭相排隊，一解鄉愁，形成如今緬甸街的前身。歸國華僑」。
倘若仔細觀察街上店招，街上的店名常結合了每個緬僑，都藏著一則顛沛流離，精彩而不平
緬甸的地名與不同菜系，除了華人的雲南擺夷小凡的生命故事。坐在李園清真小吃，來台超過30
吃與港式飲茶，還有印度小吃與泰國菜，每一個年的老僑、前中華民國緬甸歸僑協會副理事長簡
店名，都是一組身世密碼，除了意味著店主人的明有，跟我們說起了他的故事。
祖籍與故鄉，更集體呼應著緬甸國內多元融合的在緬甸密支那長大的簡明有，祖籍雲南，在那
現況。包括因著邊界與中國、泰國、寮國等國接個「天無三日晴，地無三里平」，地力貧瘠的地
壤，人口流動，文化上自然有來有往，另還有緬方，因為從事農耕不易，許多人為了討生活，成
甸境內的上百支民族，及來自滇、閩、粵的華人為商賈從事買賣，而雲南又與緬甸相連，故跨國
移民，以及信奉伊斯蘭教的印度移民等。貿易相當發達。
72
ancestors hailed from Yunnan, Fujian, and Guangdong, Road and Huaxin Street. Easily missed by visitors be-
and a number of Muslim migrants from India. cause it is situated a little way off Huaxin Street proper,
First-time visitors to Huaxin Street are often struck this small spot sells authentic Burmese snacks such as
simply by the array of exotic foods, but behind the banana shwe gye cake, htanthi mont (toddy palm cake),
menus, each of these stores and restaurants has its own and egg pudding.
unique story to tell of different individual Burmese In addition to snacks, of course, we also enjoy
within the larger torrent of history. the unmissable cup of milk tea. We are informed by
Meet the Burmese-Taiwanese community friendly locals that Burmese milk tea is much like Tai-
The Taiwanese government’s pivot toward Southeast wan’s own “hand-shaken” tea drinks, with the amount
Asia in recent years has aroused the curiosity of many of tea, creamer, and sugar all able to be tailored to taste,
Taiwanese about the peoples of that region. As a result, something which the owners of the shops take great
the local Burmese community, which had always been pride in doing for their guests.
relatively low-key, has increasingly attracted public at- Buddhist temples began to pop up along Huaxin
tention. “Because of this new policy, some people tend
to lump us in with the so-called ‘new Taiwanese,’ but
there are plenty of us who’ve been here for decades,”
smiles Aung Win, chairman of the Huaxin Street Busi-
ness District Development Association and a Taiwan
緬僑多依循緬甸風俗，信奉小乘佛教，虔誠的佛教徒禮
resident for over 30 years. 遇路上托缽化緣的僧侶。
Following Aung Win’s lead, we make our way to Most Burmese-Taiwanese are practicing Theravada Buddhists
and continue to follow Burmese customs, courteously
Little Burma Tea and Snacks by the corner of Xingnan interacting with monks on their way to the temple.
73
簡明有的家族，一直在中緬邊界從事商業活
動，並且陸續在緬甸密支那置產，直到他的父
親，才正式由雲南搬到緬甸。
他小時居住在克欽族與傣族為主的村子，家裡
的母語是雲南話，小學念的緬文學校，但到了中
學，他到了仰光念華校，用的是台灣的教材。高
中畢業以後，他透過海外招生，考取到台灣的政
治大學邊疆政治學系（即今日的民族學系）。但
那時緬甸軍政府實行鎖國政策，「來台灣等於不
能再回去，簡直就像生離死別。」簡明有回憶，
還是長子的他，母親萬分不捨，把寄到家裡的護
照藏了起來，不讓他出國。
這樣獨特的成長背景，讓簡明有的緬文始終
不如中文流利，但後來無心插柳，因著無法去台
灣，他到仰光大學讀緬文系，加上童年生活在少
數民族混居的村子裡，多語的能力，以及對不同
族群、文化的敏感度，一直是他的利器。
直到1981年，他才以移民的方式來到台灣，並
且通過高考成為公職人員，過去20餘年來，在國
父紀念館負責接待外賓。特殊的成長背景，讓他
在工作上游刃有餘，「我接待過柯林頓、柴契爾
夫人、戈巴契夫。」談起那段輝煌的日子，簡明
有依舊感到相當榮耀。
來小緬甸，認識緬華族群
近年政府喊出新南向口號，喚醒台灣人對於東南
亞族群的好奇，過去在台灣社會中一直相當低調的緬
華社群，逐漸受到大眾注意。「因為政策的關係，有國家，華新街上，早從40年前便有佛寺建立，如今
些人會把我們歸類為『新住民』，但住了好幾十年的一共就有五間寺廟在華新街一帶；虔誠的緬僑，甚
我們其實算是『老住民』。」來台灣超過30年，華至還在三峽出資建造佛寺，外觀同樣有莊嚴的大金
新街商圈發展協會理事長張標材靦腆地說。塔，遙然呼應著緬甸「佛塔之國」的美名。當我們
我們在張標材的引路之下，踏入另一家在興南在店裡啜飲緬甸奶茶，路旁還有托缽化緣的僧侶徐
路、華新街入口的「緬甸小吃店」。這間不在華新行而過，「小緬甸區」真是名副其實。
街上、容易讓許多觀光客錯過的小店，販售著芭蕉除了日常上緬甸街尋美食，張標材也表示，緬
糕、棕糖糕、雞蛋布丁等道地的東南亞甜點。甸華僑還會依循緬甸傳統習俗，在四月的潑水節，
除了甜點，當然不可免俗還得來上一杯奶茶，以及十月、十一月的點燈節舉行各種傳統儀式，堪
經過當地人熱心的指引，我們才知道，小小一杯的稱華新街上的盛會。
緬甸奶茶，和台灣的手搖飲料一樣，茶湯、奶精、當我們踏入這個孕育著許多美麗的人、事、物
糖水的多寡，都可以客製，每一杯都是老闆為客人的小角落，除了讓人認識到緬華族群的勇敢與熱
量身訂做所端出的自慢之作。情，也讓人再一次驚嘆台灣社會的豐富與對多元文
此外也值得一提的是，因著緬甸是宗教盛行的化的吸納能力。 l
74
Street around 40 years ago, and today the area is home 又被稱作「小緬甸區」的華新街，每年四月必定舉辦潑水節
（緬甸傳統新年），家家戶戶藉潑水、浴佛等儀式祈福。
to five. Devout Burmese have even funded the construc-
（金宏澔攝）
tion of a Buddhist temple in Sanxia, New Taipei City, Also known as “Little Burma,” Huaxin Street plays host to
Thingyan (Burmese New Year) celebrations every April, when
which features large, stately golden pagodas, echoing people pray for good fortune by splashing each other with water
Burma’s reputation as a “land of pagodas.” As we sip our and bathing statues of the Buddha in worship.
(photos by Chin Hung-hao)
Burmese milk tea in the tea shops, monks can be seen
walking along the street with their alms bowls, another
way in which “Little Burma” really lives up to its name.
In addition to their daily excursions to Huaxin Street
for Burmese food, Burmese-Taiwanese also continue In this small corner of New Taipei City, home to so
to follow traditional Burmese customs, explains Aung many beautiful things, one can not only learn about
Win, like the Burmese New Year festival of Thingyan the fortitude and hospitality of Taiwan’s Burmese com-
in April and the Thadingyut and Tazaungdaing Festi- mun ity, but also gain a new appreciation for the diver-
vals of Lights that usually fall in October or November. sity and inclusiveness of Taiwanese society. l
When these festivals are celebrated, Huaxin Street (Lynn Su/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
transforms into a party, and all are welcome to join in. tr. by Geof Aberhart)
75
島嶼行旅　AROUND TAIWAN
讓野生動物重返山林
野灣野生動物醫院
Returning Animals to the Wilderness:
The WildOne Wildlife Hospital
文•陳群芳　圖•林格立　版面設計•王敬勛
76
I n 2017, a group of wildlife workers frustrated
一隻隻受傷的動物，觸動了一群野生動物工
作者的心。他們不忍東部的救傷資源匱乏，野 by the lack of resources to treat injured wildlife
生動物受了傷，只能費時送到南部或西部，往 in the eastern part of Taiwan founded their own
group, the WildOne Wildlife Conservation Associ-
往錯過救援的黃金時刻。為此，他們在2017年
ation. They then traveled Taiwan promoting their
成立「野灣野生動物保育協會」，全台奔走倡
cause, and in 2020 established Eastern Taiwan’s
議，集合群眾募資的支持，2020年在台東池上
first non-profit wildlife rescue and recovery center
成立東部第一座非營利的野生動物救傷暨復健中 in Chishang Township, Taitung County, to rehabil-
心。野灣至今救援超過140隻動物，小到蝙蝠， itate injured animals and return them to the wild.
大至黑熊、野豬，讓野生動物回家，是他們最
大的心願。 We hear the rattle and clang of a large animal lung-
ing against the side of a cage, then watch as a conserva-
tion worker anesthetizes the 25-kilogram wild pig with
「框啷框啷」籠子裡傳來大型動物撞擊鐵籠的
a dart from a blowgun. A few minutes later, the worker
聲響，保育員俐落地用吹箭射出麻醉針，幾分鐘
lifts the unconscious animal from the cage. Caught in a
後規律而平靜的呼吸聲傳出，保育員抬出一隻25
snare a few days ago, the pig’s leg was severely injured
公斤的野豬。牠是前幾天中了套索陷阱的野豬， and had to be amputated. We happen to arrive just as
因為傷勢嚴重只好截肢，到訪這天正好目睹牠清 its wound is due to be cleaned and redressed. The vets
創換藥。手術台上，獸醫師們替野豬戴上麻醉面 in attendance place an anesthesia mask over the pig’s
罩，接上生理監視器，為牠處理傷口，現場屏氣 snout, connect the animal to machines to monitor its
凝神。 vital signs, and get to work dealing with the wound.
Once the procedure is complete, the worker returns
手術結束，保育員把野豬抬回籠舍，在一旁靜
the pig to its cage and then monitors the animal until it
靜觀察，等待牠甦醒，確定牠恢復意識，大夥這
regains consciousness. Everyone breathes a sigh of re-
才鬆了口氣。像這樣的救傷工作，三天兩頭就在 lief when it awakens. This kind of rescue work is prac-
此處搬演，這裡是位於台東池上的野灣野生動物 tically an everyday event here at the WildOne Wildlife
醫院。 Hospital in Chishang.
Saving wildlife
為野生動物請命 One morning near the end of 2015, Chi Meng-jou,
2015年底某日一早，當時在屏科大野生動物 then a veterinarian with National Pingtung Univer-
sity of Science and Technology’s Pingtung Rescue
收容中心擔任獸醫的綦孟柔，接到了台東縣政府
Center, received a phone call from a Taitung County
來電：一隻被流浪犬咬的全身是傷的山羌奄奄一
Government official asking for her help with a For-
息，但沒有人力將牠送到屏東。可是一早收容中 mosan Reeves’ muntjac that had been mauled by stray
心的工作才剛開始，綦孟柔只能請對方先找就近 dogs. The animal was at death’s door, and the county
的獸醫院處理；不料，下午對方再次來電，實在 didn’t have anyone available to drive it to Pingtung.
找不到能醫治的地方。匆忙結束工作，綦孟柔和 Chi rushed through the remainder of her day’s tasks,
同事趕往台東，接到山羌再回到屏東的手術室時 and hurried to Taitung with a colleague to collect the
77
已是半夜，山羌只剩微弱、隨時會停的心跳，最
後只能讓牠在麻醉中安樂死。
山羌的死，觸動了綦孟柔，她驚覺東部的野生
動物救傷資源是何等不足。花東幅員廣闊、地形
狹長，從南到北200多公里的距離，卻沒有一間
收治野生動物的急救站，受傷的動物只能送往南
部或西部。費時的車程與移動時的驚擾，除延誤
救治，也徒增動物的痛苦。於是綦孟柔動念要在
東部建置野生動物救傷中心。她找了獸醫師江宜
倫等幾位志同道合的朋友，成立「野灣野生動物
保育協會」，一起為野生動物請命。
當時還有正職工作的她們，一有空就全台跑，
到處演講倡議，讓大家了解野生動物正面臨的困
境。經過三年的奔走籌備，終於透過群眾募資籌
得建置經費，野灣承租台糖牧野度假村的一棟空
屋進行整修，讓東部唯一的野生動物救傷暨復健
中心在2020年8月正式運作。
人與野生動物的距離
多數人對動物的認識，大抵就是貓狗、兔子等
寵物，再者就是擬人化的卡通動物，對動物的想
像存在著可愛、易親近的粉紅泡泡。大眾鮮少注
意到在自然裡維持生態平衡的野生動物，導致野
生動物與人們的距離，十分遙遠。但看不到不等
於不存在，綦孟柔對外界宣導時，總不忘提醒民
眾留心觀察，城市綠地可能就有鳳頭蒼鷹或領角
鴞；或是近郊登山步道旁的洞窟，可能就是穿山
甲的洞穴。
經濟的開發，使得野生動物的生活空間與人
類活動範圍高度重疊。從事野生動物救傷工作多
年，綦孟柔觀察到野生動物遭遇的傷害，大多都
與人類直接或間接相關。例如棲地因道路開發而
破碎，動物為了遷徙遭遇路殺；或是被流浪犬
攻擊的山羌，有時甚至一屍兩命；更不用提被套
索、捕獸夾等陷阱損害肢體的動物。
江宜倫悉心替野豬清理傷口、做檢查。看著截肢處的肉芽，
想像牠被套索困住時的痛苦與驚慌，令人不捨。
Chiang Yi Lun cleans a wild pig’s wound and then examines
the animal. Looking at the stump of its amputated limb, one can
imagine the pain and fear the animal experienced when trapped.
78
綦孟柔號召夥伴創辦野灣，保育
野生動物是她一生的使命。
（野灣野生動物保育協會提供）
Chi Meng-jou’s mission in life is
animal conservation. She recruited
partners to found the WildOne
Wildlife Conservation Association.
(courtesy of WOWCA)
muntjac. They weren’t able to get it back to Pingtung times results in the death of both the muntjac and its
and into an operating theater until late that night. By unborn kid. And that’s not to mention the limb injuries
then the animal’s pulse had grown weak and erratic, that traps and snares cause to animals.
and they had no choice but to euthanize it. The center treated a crested serpent eagle that had
The muntjac’s death highlighted for Chi the lack of been taken in by a member of the public but then kept
animal rescue resources in Eastern Taiwan. Hualien in a cage so small and narrow that it broke the bird’s
and Taitung Counties cover a vast area, but at that time wing feathers. The person, who didn’t understand the
didn’t have a single wildlife clinic. Instead, wild ani- bird’s dietary needs, also fed it oysters and other sea-
mals in need of care were sent to Western Taiwan. The food, which they left in the cage to rot and breed mag-
long drive and associated agitation meant delayed care gots. The person kept the eagle for two weeks before
and increased suffering for the animals. This unfortu- taking it to WildOne, where a vet discovered that it
nate state of affairs led Chi, fellow veterinarian Chiang also had broken bones from a previous accident. Unfor-
Yi Lun and other like-minded friends to establish their tunately these injuries had been neglected for so long
own wild animal rescue organization, the WildOne that the eagle’s joints had frozen and become untreat-
Wildlife Conservation Association (WOWCA). able. Having lost the ability to fly, the bird couldn’t be
They then spent three years raising the funds they returned to the wild, and the hospital had to euthanize
needed to set up their own facility. With the money fi- it. “If they had brought it in two weeks earlier, the out-
nally in hand, they leased an unoccupied building at the come would have been different,” says a pained Chi.
Chishang Pastoral Farm Resort, and converted it into Wildlife rescuers have observed innumerable similar
Eastern Taiwan’s only wildlife rescue and rehabilitation cases. Chi recommends that people who happen upon
center, which began operating in August 2020. a wild animal first observe it from a distance, and not
The distance between act without thinking. They shouldn’t bring it home with
Economic development has resulted in human them even if they’re certain that the animal is in diffi-
spaces significantly overlapping wildlife habitat, and culties. Every species has different habits and needs,
Chi’s many years in wildlife rescue have shown her and attempts by untrained individuals to care for wild
that most wildlife injuries are caused, directly or indi- animals are likely to do more harm than good. Instead,
rectly, by people. For example, when road construction members of the public who encounter injured animals
fragments habitats, migrating animals are often killed should dial 1999 for the local government hotline and
by vehicles. When stray dogs attack muntjacs, it some- inform the relevant agency of the animal’s plight.
79
保育員廖朝盛分享，野灣最近收到一隻誤闖苦野灣透過市集、講座等各種教育宣導，在孩子心中播
下尊重生命的種籽。（野灣野生動物保育協會提供）
瓜網的大冠鷲，為了掙脫奮力振翅，導致飛羽斷裂 WildOne plants the seeds of respect for animals in
children’s hearts through a variety of educational
影響飛行能力，使牠在野外的生存產生問題。目前 activities. (courtesy of WOWCA)
野灣打算幫牠找合適的義羽來接上，若行不通就只
能等自然換羽，照養的時間可能就以年為單位。
另一隻被民眾撿去養的大冠鷲就沒那麼幸運
無常是一種日常
了，被養在狹小的鳥籠裡，翅膀都被插斷；且民
眾不熟悉牠的習性，胡亂以蚵仔餵食，甚至放任在野灣，照養動物是全體成員的任務。每天早
海鮮在裏頭長蛆發臭。養了兩周被送到野灣時，上會準備新鮮的食物，雜食性動物有根莖類、葉
獸醫師發現牠有骨折問題，推測就是因為骨折飛菜、水果等，肉食動物則準備了雞肉、小鼠、昆
不了，才被撿到。但拖了太久關節早已硬化，造蟲等，依據各物種的習性給予營養。成員除了上
成無法挽救的傷害，失去飛行能力回不了野外，市場採買，還會定期到野外採集，準備構樹、桑
只能忍痛將牠安樂死。「如果兩週前就送來，結葉、野果等，讓動物熟悉野外食物，因為野灣是
果就會不一樣了。」綦孟柔心痛地說。以野放為目標，不是長期的收容。也因此，不論
類似案例多不勝數，綦孟柔建議，遇到野生動是餵食或清潔籠舍，同仁都是靜靜地操作，不會
物時先遠遠觀察，切莫輕舉妄動；如果確定動物跟動物有太多互動，以免牠們太過親近人類，而
落難，也不要撿回家飼養，撥打1999轉知相關單影響野放後的生活。
位，才是比較好的做法。畢竟每種動物的習性都走一趟野灣野生動物醫院，會發現動物的籠舍
不同，民眾若給了不合適的籠舍、飲食等，都可幾乎都用毛巾或帆布蓋住。廖朝盛解釋，應該在
能導致不可逆的傷害。人們一時的關愛反對牠們大自然裡生活的野生動物，被困在籠舍裡，無處
的生存造成阻礙，恐怕不是大家樂見的。可逃的現實會令牠們緊張，人類的一舉一動都會
80
Expecting the unexpected then determine whether it can be returned to the wild.
At WildOne, animal care is everyone’s mission. Every They consider euthanasia once again if an animal can’t
morning workers prepare fresh meals to meet each an- be released back into the wild and WildOne is unable to
imal’s needs, purchasing some of the ingredients from provide it with an appropriate long-term living environ-
the market and collecting others on regular trips into ment. Once the hospital has treated an animal, it de-
the countryside in order to habituate the animals to wild livers “in-patient” care until the animal has healed, and
foods, because WildOne’s goal is to rehabilitate and re- then begins training it for a return to the wild.
lease them, not to keep them in long-term captivity. Liao says that when they evaluate an animal for re-
Walking through the WildOne Animal Hospital, you lease, they first determine whether it can move, feed,
can’t help but notice that nearly all of the cages are cov- and conceal itself. An animal must be capable of all
ered with towels or heavy sheets. Conservation worker three to be a candidate for release. He recalls once treat-
Liao Chao-sheng explains that wild animals confined in ing a crested goshawk that was too weak to stand. Poor
cages become agitated by people moving around them circulation had led to some of its toes swelling, turning
and anxious because they can’t flee. The covers insulate black, and even dropping off. The goshawk’s condition
them from external stimuli, helping keep them calmer. improved under WildOne’s care, and it grew strong
Putting themselves in the animals’ shoes, WildOne again. Liao eventually decided it was time to return the
staff have noticed other things that are typically over- bird to the wild, and moved it to an outdoor training
looked. When setting up the animal hospital, Chiang area. But once there, the condition of the goshawk’s right
decided to call the pantry the “homo sapiens kitchen”
and the animals’ feeding area the “wildlife kitchen.” The
names are a way of expressing her belief that people and
wildlife are equals, that we all live together in this world.
經過野灣10個月的照顧，廣原小熊從4公斤長到40幾公斤，
When WildOne receives an injured animal, it first 順利重返山林。（野灣野生動物保育協會提供）
evaluates the injury. If the animal can’t be saved, they During its ten months in WildOne’s care, this young bear grew
from just four kilograms to 40 kg in weight. Here, it is being
euthanize it to end its suffering. If it can be saved, they released back into the wilderness. (courtesy of WOWCA)
81
讓動物感到驚擾，用布隔絕外界刺激，能讓牠們月。待傷勢恢復後，再做進一步的野放訓練。
的身心比較安定。廖朝盛表示，進行野放評估時，行動、覓食、
這些設身處地的著想，也體現在一些不經意的藏匿三種能力缺一不可，有時候動物看似復原良
細節。建置野生動物醫院時，江宜倫靈機一動，好，但在野放評估時才出現問題。曾經有隻鳳頭
將茶水間取名為「智人廚房」，調理動物飲食的蒼鷹原本虛弱到無法站立，腳趾因循環不良而腫
地方則取做「野生動物廚房」，對她而言，人類脹、變黑，甚至脫落。在野灣的照顧下狀況逐漸
跟野生動物是平等的，都是共同在這塊土地生活好轉，右腳剩下的前後兩根腳趾也不再脫落，身
的物種。江宜倫笑說，野灣像是野生動物的信仰體越來越強壯。廖朝盛心想，是野放的時候了，
中心，「我們希望環境健康、人健康，動物也健將牠移至野放訓練空間，才發現牠的右腳大拇指
康，大家其實是一體的。」保育野生動物沒有人開始惡化，且太依賴左腳站立而出現前掌炎，導
是局外人。致無法停棲、獵捕。若將牠野放等於是丟到野外
野灣成立至今，已處理超過140件救傷案例。等死，最後也只能讓牠安樂死。
野灣收到受傷動物時會先評估傷勢，救不活的會生命的無常，早已是野灣的日常。但死亡不等
進行安樂死，減輕牠的痛苦；救得活的，要評估於結束，獸醫師會進行病理解剖，了解死因，也
牠將來能否野放。因為野生動物大多不易親人，對該物種有更多的認識。每天面對殘破不堪的軀
人類的照顧反倒讓牠處於高壓的焦慮狀態，若無體，或是明明法律禁用獸鋏，卻仍有動物為此
法提供適合長期圈養的環境，安樂死就會是考量受苦，種種的無力，並沒有讓野灣的成員就此
動物福祉後的一種選擇。動物進行醫治後，會送悲觀，他們身上反倒有種正向安定的力量。看
入住院部照養，復原時間短則幾天，長則數年數到動物們受了傷仍奮力求生的模樣，「相較之
赤翡翠 Ruddy kingfisher
野灣野生動物保育協會提供
courtesy of WOWCA
領角鴞 Collared scops owl
82
hallux (its “big toe”) worsened, causing it to favor its left forts worthwhile. “I was so proud of my team,” she
leg. This caused its left foot to become inflamed, leaving recalls, tearing up at the memory.
it unable to hunt or even perch. Since returning the bird But rescuing injured animals is only the tail end
to the wild in this state would have meant leaving it to of wildlife conservation. If we want to stop these
die, they felt they had no choice but to euthanize it. tragedies from occurring in the first place, we have
Life’s impermanence is an everyday reality at Wild- to educate the public. WildOne gives presentations at
One. The organization cares for creatures with broken elementary and middle schools throughout Eastern
bodies on a daily basis, and continues to see animals Taiwan in an effort to sow the seeds of respect for life
injured by traps and snares even though such devices at an early age. The group confronts the public with the
are illegal in Taiwan. Yet, despite such frustrations, the troubles wildlife face by telling the stories of rescued
workers there remain upbeat, filled with a quiet sense animals via Facebook and in-person talks. WildOne
of purpose. believes that the only way to change the situation of
Pulling together wildlife in Taiwan is by making people more aware of
The hospital rehabilitated a bear c ub t hat had it, and is adding an education gallery to its hospital to
blundered into Tait ung’s Guang yuan Village and help people better understand its work.
become separated from its mother. They named the WildOne has received widespread support since
cub Mulas, and over the course of ten months helped
it grow from just four kilograms to 40 kg in weight.
The young bear was ultimately released back into the
mountain wilderness using a helicopter. Chi says that
野灣每天準備新鮮食材，悉心照顧每隻受傷的動物。
watching Mulas run into the forest made all their ef- WildOne prepares fresh food every day for the animals in its care.
食蟹獴 Crab-eating mongoose 大冠鷲 Crested serpent eagle
courtesy of WOWCA
黃嘴角鴞 Mountain scops owl
courtesy of WOWCA
83
下我們沒什麼好抱怨的，讓人比較豁達。」綦經過10個月的照料，把牠從4公斤，養到40幾
孟柔表示。公斤。看著廣原小熊被直升機運至山裡，奔跑
進森林的模樣，那一刻，什麼鳥事都無所謂，
集力使力，實踐想望
一切都是值得的，「我很為我的團隊驕傲」綦
對野灣而言，每一次的救援都是挑戰。野灣曾孟柔想起來仍眼眶泛淚。
經照養一隻誤闖台東廣原村的落單小熊Mulas，然而救傷工作只是野生動物保育的後端，要
停止悲劇的發生，必須從教育著手。野灣會到
東部的國中小進行教育宣導，在孩子心中種下
尊重生命的種籽，回頭影響父母。或是透過演
野灣在池上成立東部第一座野生動物救傷中心，來自北中
南的成員們，一起實踐他們對野生動物保育的想望。
講、臉書粉絲頁的貼文，以一個個救傷案例，
WildOne established Eastern Taiwan’s first wildlife rescue center 將野生動物的現況帶到大眾面前。野灣規劃在
in Chishang, Taitung County, where staff from all over Taiwan
work together to implement their vision for wildlife conservation. 醫院做教育迴廊，預計今年下半年開放預約參
觀，讓人們在不干擾動物的前提，了解救傷工
作的內容。唯有讓更多人注意到野生動物，才
有改變的可能。
野灣成立至今，一路上受到許多人的支持，
有人捐獻動物的伙食、營養品等。今年在和泰
汽車的捐助下，合作打造了台灣第一台專門救
治野生動物的醫療車。車上設備齊全，有生理
監視器、點滴汞浦、麻醉機等，幾乎是一個行
動醫院。讓野生動物能在乾淨、安靜的環境做
急救，減少運送過程對動物的驚嚇，增加野生
動物後送醫院的存活率，讓更多動物有機會回
到牠的家。
為改善野生動物保育人力不足的現況，野
灣正著手照養手冊的製作及志工招募。靈感
源自綦孟柔在明尼蘇達州的野生動物復建中心
擔任志工的經驗，中心以照養手冊建立完善的
志工制度，清楚記錄各物種的籠舍布置、餵養
需求，只要看手冊，志工就清楚動物的照養，
第一線人員只要專心負責治療，大大減輕人力
負擔。那間復健中心只有約十名正式員工，每
年卻能救傷一萬隻野生動物，讓綦孟柔大開眼
界，當時就暗暗決定要將這個制度帶回台灣。
救傷、宣導、培育人才、改善工作環境
……，雖然協會才成立四年，在拮据的人力與
經費下，野灣仍馬不停蹄地實踐她們對野生動
物保育工作的理想。看著野灣的每個人滿懷熱
情與樂觀地說著對保育工作的期待，不禁覺
得，野生動物的保育有野灣真好，綦孟柔靦腆
的笑了笑，「沒有啦，喜歡做而已。」 l
84
讓野生動物重返山林，需要這塊土地上的所有人一起努力。 requirements by providing its volunteers with clear
（野灣野生動物保育協會提供） guidelines on care, enabling frontline workers to focus
Returning animals to the wilderness requires all of us to work
together. (courtesy of WOWCA) on treatment. This division of labor allows it to treat
10,000 injured animals every year with only ten formal
employees. Chi’s experience there was eye-opening, and
inspired her to bring the center’s methods to Taiwan.
its founding, and this year worked with Hotai Motor Founded just four years ago, WildOne has thrown
to build Taiwan’s first wildlife ambulance. The vehicle itself into a host of issues, ranging from animal rescue
provides a clean, quiet setting for the delivery of ur- and public education to worker training and improve-
gent care to wildlife, and makes the trip to the hospital ments to the working environment. It has tirelessly
less stressful for the animals. This increases the rate at pursued its vision of wildlife conservation work while
which they survive the journey, and enables more of balancing its budget and manpower constraints. Hear-
them to return home. ing everyone involved with the group joyfully and
WildOne is also addressing the lack of manpower in enthusiastically discuss their expectations of conserva-
wildlife conservation by recruiting volunteers and com- tion work, one can’t help but be thrilled that Taiwan’s
piling a handbook on wildlife care. Chi’s inspiration for wildlife have such committed advocates in their corner.
this initiative was her experience volunteering at a wild- Chi downplays the compliment, shyly telling us, “It’s
life rehabilitation center in the US state of Minnesota. nothing. We just like doing it.” l
The center’s handbook on the housing and feeding needs (Chen Chun-fang/photos by Jimmy Lin/
of various animal species greatly reduces its manpower tr. by Scott Williams)
85
島嶼行旅　AROUND TAIWAN
女巫秘境輕旅行
基隆瑪陵半日遊
Relics, Riverbeds,
and Rose Gardens
—A Day Trip to Maling
文•蘇晨瑜　圖•莊坤儒　版面設計•王敬勛
車程才短短30分鐘，景觀已從都會高樓轉為
崇山峻嶺。近年來基隆七堵的瑪陵休閒農業園區
已成為台北人的秘密後花園，只花短短半日，就
能走訪當地優美的桐花步道、親水公園、百年糯
米橋，還能一探礦場遺址，尋幽探古，甚至勇闖
在地人才知道的私房秘境。
時序初春，清晨旭日東昇，照亮瑪陵園區裡
（以下簡稱瑪陵）綿延起伏的山丘，宛如在山嶺
間灑下一層薄薄的金粉。山谷間一片清新，五色
鳥「嘓嘓」鳴叫，大地彷彿昨夜剛被雨水洗過，
空氣瀰漫著沁人濕潤的青草香。掌：「剛剛那座土地公廟是有歷史的，以前礦工
挖礦認為是在向土地公借錢，所以他們習慣去拜
礦工挖礦寄命土地公
拜。」早年礦主為了採礦平安順利，會在礦場附
我們在遊客中心不遠處的福德宮，見到笑臉近蓋土地公廟，這間小廟當年由台灣五大家族之
迎人的瑪西社區發展協會總幹事林飛海。林飛海一的基隆顏家三兄弟興建，三兄弟還在廟門上題
從小在瑪陵長大，對當地人文歷史可說是瞭如指了門聯。
86
T he scenery changes from city high rises to lay-
ered mountain ridges on the 30-minute drive
to the Malingkeng Recreational Agriculture Area
old bridge built with glutinous rice. You can also
take in the area’s mining relics and gain a sense of
how the old timers here used to live while explor-
in Keelung’s Qidu District, a secret hideaway in ing secret places known only to locals.
Taipei’s backyard. Spending just half a day here,
you can walk beautiful trails lined with blooming On an early spring morning, not long after sunrise, Ma-
tung trees, play in a riverside park, and visit an ling’s undulating ridges seem sprinkled with gold dust.
87
早年瑪陵礦業興盛，到處都是礦坑，林飛海的致壯麗。翠谷橋下的瑪陵坑溪飛流直下，百年來
父親當年就在日德煤礦挖礦，晚上埋炸藥，白天入在此地沖刷出奇特的壺穴地形，河岸旁的五堵圳
礦搏命。煤礦走入歷史後，瑪陵從繁華歸於寧靜，遺跡清晰可見。
小軌道少了礦車穿梭，酒家不再鶯鶯燕燕，如同時林飛海手指下游方向，「那邊就是六堵淨水
間在此凝結，卻意外讓瑪陵成為人間仙境。廠的取水口，所以我們這裡的水質特別乾淨。」
一探橋下，果真清澈見底，水裡正悠游著對水
百年糯米橋
質特別敏感的馬口魚與台灣石。「夏天枯水期
我們造訪時還不是旅遊旺季，遊客中心的廁所如果有人偷排廢水或丟入異物，這些魚就死給你
門才一打開，蹦出一隻驚慌失措的褐樹蛙，在牆看。」這些台灣特有原生魚種相當嬌貴，時常有
壁上瘋狂彈跳。樹蛙受到驚嚇，我們其實比牠更人來偷釣，林飛海與當地居民自發組成巡守隊，
害怕。林飛海聽了哈哈大笑：「我們這裡生態特看見有人鬼祟出沒，就會上前勸誡；碰到有人
別豐富。」看著衛生紙上緩緩蠕動的小蟲，地上放生丟入外來種如吳郭魚，也會趁夜把牠們抓起
生氣勃勃的野花通泉草，山嶺間古木蔽天、藤蔓來，全村動員巡守，就是要護漁到底。
纏繞，瑪陵的確是生態天堂。不久，在林飛海與
協會理事長杜秀珍的陪同下，我們驅車來到當地
知名的百年翠谷橋。站在橋上極目望去，山林青瑪陵5月雪片片，桐花紛飛，讓當地增添更多浪漫氣息。
When Maling’s tung tree blossoms drop in May, they add to
翠欲滴，河谷中散布著巨石，腳下流澗飛瀑，景 the romantic atmosphere.
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A debt to the Earth God 遊客中心可見到當年用於焦炭窯的復刻版文物，借此
了解當地礦業的歷史。
At the Fude Temple, not far from the visitor At the visitor center, you can gain a deeper understanding
center, we are greeted by a smiling Lin Feihai, of the area’s mining history by examining tools used at
the coke ovens.
director general of the Marcy Community Devel-
opment Association. Born and raised nearby, Lin
is an expert on the local culture: “That Earth God
temple has a long history. Miners used to believe
that their wealth was borrowed from the Earth
God, so they were accustomed to going there to
pray.” Owners would build Earth God temples
near the mines to keep the good times rolling.
This small temple was built by three brothers of
Keelung’s Yan family, then one of Taiwan’s five
most illustrious clans. The brothers also came up
with the couplet flanking the temple’s doorway.
For a time, the area around here flourished.
But when the coal mines closed, Maling re-
turned to being both a quiet backwater and
something of a marvelous fairyland.
Sticky rice bridge
With Lin and the community association’s
chairwoman, Do Shojen, we drive to the locally
famous Cuigu (“emerald valley”) Bridge.
Lin points downstream: “That’s the water
intake for the Liudu Water Treatment Plant right
there, so you know that the water here is espe-
cially clean.” A glance under the bridge shows
that the water is indeed crystal clear. Formosan
stripe dace and Taiwan torrent carp, species that
are extremely sensitive to water quality, inhabit
the creek. Lin and other locals carry out patrols,
confronting anyone they deem suspicious. If
they discover that someone has released non-
native species such as tilapia, they mobilize
immediately, working through the night to catch
the fish. The entire village is committed to these
patrols to protect the native fish.
The Cuigu Bridge looks brand new, but there
is in fact an historical attraction underneath it:
the remains of an old “glutinous rice bridge.”
A stout hexagonal pier stands under the bridge
deck. Back in the day this was built by locals
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翠谷橋看似新穎，橋面下其實還有一大橋墩，風災一來，整個都倒了。」上游富
看點──百年糯米橋。橋面下矗立著一根民親水公園內，至今可見倒躺水中的水泥
粗壯的六角形橋墩，是當年居民用糯米混橋殘骸，而糯米橋長年被溪水沖刷，碰到
合紅石灰、紅糖等材料，再以石塊砌成。風災水漫橋面，還是屹立不搖，糯米比水
這工法看似簡單的橋墩，卻自1949年以泥還厲害，真是令人大開眼界。
來，挺過無數次風災。從橋上翹首望去，就可見到當地知名的
「這橋面重新做過，但糯米橋橋墩怎地標石獅山。林飛海當年從瑪陵國小畢業
麼沖都沖不斷。」林飛海讚嘆先人智慧，時，全班都要爬上石獅山，算是當地小學
「先民們技術超強，上游其他用水泥做的的經典畢旅。瑪陵國小是百年小學，原本
因學生人數太少，差點廢校，如今轉型成
為森林小學，深獲台北市家長喜愛。每天
早晨台北家長用遊覽車把孩子送來上課，
傍晚再用遊覽車接回。校園後方有生態
園、生態池、有機種植菜圃，還設有文物
室，展出當地耆老捐贈之文物。
學校不遠處沿著大成街一直走，景象
漸趨荒涼。我們轉入一條高大棕櫚夾道小
徑，盡頭有座廢棄荒涼的日治時期派出
所。探頭張望，鐵門已經拉上，鎖頭也鏽
蝕斑斑，四下荒無人煙，瀰漫著一股詭異
的氣氛。沒想到派出所旁竟然還有戶人
家，不知有沒有住人，想想有點讓人頭皮
發麻。
繁華落盡焦炭窯
長潭亭旁的焦炭窯就在大華產業道路上，
地點還算好找。草地上的矩形大石砌成24個
窯洞，外觀看起來又像城牆，又像防禦工
事，是當地人早年煤炭煉成「焦炭」的場
所。煉出來的「焦炭」，等級好的送到中
鋼，次等的賣給打鐵店，隨著瓦斯燃料興
擁有百年歷史的糯米橋至今仍屹立不搖，展現古人
與自然共生的智慧，橋下可見特殊的壺穴地形。
Still standing after many decades, this bridge pier was
built using mortar made with sticky rice. Its longevity
bears witness to the wisdom of earlier generations in
understanding how to coexist with nature. The rocks
under the bridge feature unusual “giant’s kettle” potholes.
90
from stone blocks held together with a mortar com 日治時期派出所的詭譎氣氛，適合愛冒險的人一探究竟。
The spooky atmosphere of this out-of-commission police
posed of glutinous rice mixed with red lime, brown station, which dates to the Japanese era, beckons to the
sugar, and other materials. The construction method intrepid to explore.
may seem primitive, but the pier has survived count

less typhoons since 1949.
“The techniques used by our forefathers were out ating class of the era. Maling Elementary is more than a
standing,” says Lin. “Upstream there were piers con century old. In recent years it almost closed because of
structed of concrete that were destroyed by typhoons.” declining enrollment. Now it has turned into a “forest
From Fumin Riverside Park, you can see rubble in the elementary school”—one much loved by the Taipei par
creek from those toppled concrete bridges. Yet this pier ents who send their children there.
made using glutinous rice still stands erect after many Coke ovens from a past boom
decades of exposure to torrents and typhoons. It is in The coke ovens next to Changtan Pavilion on Dahua
deed remarkable that rice has weathered better than Industrial Road are easy to find. There are 24 of them,
concrete. each made of rectangular blocks of stone built into the
From the bridge, you can see a famous local land grassy slope. Together they suggest an old city wall or
mark: Mt. Shishi (“stone lion”). The year that Lin gradu military fortification. Locals used to pyrolyze coal here
ated from Maling Elementary School, his entire class to make coke. The topgrade stuff went to China Steel,
climbed that peak. It was a typical trip for a gradu whereas coke of lower quality was sold to ironsmiths.
91
起，沒人要燒煤了，如今只能撫石追憶。史蒂芬尼甜心屋座落於日德礦坑旁，地點隱密，
景致優美，適合在此享用餐點與悠閒的午後時光。
焦炭窯旁有一整排新砌的烤披薩窯，是杜秀 Stephanie’s Amoureux Maison is located next to the Ride Mine.
The beautiful, secluded location is a great place to enjoy a meal
珍與林飛海利用農村再生計畫經費設立的裝置， on a lazy afternoon.
為此還特別設置一座大理石導覽牌。林飛海特別
介紹這座導覽牌：「前來輔導的老師說，解說文
字要呈現披薩窯跟焦炭窯的連結，我想了半天，都要我報花況，我都會去觀察指標最漂亮的那一
只好寫出這樣的文字。」只見導覽牌上先介紹焦棵。」林飛海說的指標桐花樹就位在富民親水公
炭窯製作過程：「進料、封口、燃燒、出窯、冷園，此處有饒富詩意的桐花步道，最富盛名的高
卻、運送」；再介紹披薩製作過程：「預熱、麵大桐花則開在水岸邊，每到花季，雪白桐花就會
皮、餡料、進料、出料、享用、運送」。沒想到緩緩飄落水裡，場景非常詩情畫意，「這棵現在
兩者製作方式居然驚人相似，而且這硬拗的導覽已經變成我們的『金城武』樹。」林飛海說。
解說，還正經八百地刻在大理石碑上，連杜秀珍從親水公園往上步行五分鐘可抵達一處私房秘
跟林飛海兩人都覺得超級好笑。境。路上沒有任何指標，只有路旁有簡陋繩索可
攀著下到溪谷，下去後可見到溪水潺潺，大石旁
私房秘境桐花五月雪
有一泓深潭，湖水碧綠。
來到瑪陵當然不能錯過桐花，「現在我同學林飛海小時候常跟朋友跑到這裡玩水，他們
92
With the rising popularity of gas as a fuel, this method seen drifting down onto the water, a sight that recalls
of coke-making fell out of use, so today the ovens stand beautiful lines of classical Chinese poetry.
only as reminders of what once was. Walking uphill from the park for about five minutes,
May snow: Tung tree blossoms you come to a secret garden. No signs on the road an-
Of course, you cannot come to Maling in the spring nounce its existence. Rather, there are just some simple
without admiring the tung tree blossoms. “These days ropes to climb down to the creek bed, where the bab-
all my old classmates want up-to-date reports about bling water awaits. Next to a large rock there is a deep
their blooming. I always use the most beautiful tree as emerald pool.
an index.” Lin’s index tree is in Fumin Riverside Park, When Lin was little, he would often come here with
where the paths wind gracefully among tung trees. The friends. They would jump into the pool from the rock
most famous giant tree grows on the riverbank. When or mount a swing suspended from a tree. Because of
the trees are blossoming, its snow-white petals can be the shape of a rock next to the creek, they used to call
焦炭窯外觀看來像是防禦工事，斑駁窯體至今仍保存相當完好。
Recalling fortifications, this mottled wall of old coke ovens is strikingly well preserved.
93
會從大石頭上跳水，在樹間盪鞦韆，還依溪水旁拱形落地窗搭配米色系沙發，展現極具格調又輕
岩石形狀暱稱這裡叫「棺材窟」。「其實瑪陵鬆的氛圍。
又被稱為『女巫的墳墓』，就是因為這裡環境幽杜秀珍身為瑪西社區協會理事長，其實是不
謐。」林飛海這麼一說，此地意境倒真有點符合折不扣的「新住民」。十幾年前她相中此地，把
女巫的秘境呢！整片地連同礦坑口與變電所都買下來，開始一磚
一瓦打造自己心愛的居住空間，還替女兒蓋了甜
史蒂芬妮甜心屋
心屋，讓女兒一圓創業夢。像杜秀珍這樣從外地
玩了一個早上，肚子已經餓得咕咕叫，我們沿「移民」瑪陵的人，據說越來越多，一反當年礦
著日德礦坑步道拾級而上，來到座落在玫瑰園內業人口外流的趨勢。
的史蒂芬妮甜心屋。這座獨特的西式建築由杜秀享用完精緻的套餐後，我們點了鳳梨水果冰茶
珍一手設計打造，餐廳內陳列蒐羅自世界各地的與撫慰人心的橙香肉桂橘茶，慵懶地欣賞著歐風
奇珍異品，並有著絕佳的視野，內裝歐風，高大田園景致，感到十分心滿意足。揮別瑪陵前，又
繞去了知名的芳裕農場，巧遇女主人楊鄭金滿。
她介紹了架上琳瑯滿目的柚子花與肉桂純露，都
當地知名的芳裕農場在女主人巧思下，
是她親自研發的天然草本伴手禮，最後，我們帶
打造出融合自然景致的空間，可在此帶點伴手禮賦歸。
An expression of the sensibility of the woman who runs it, the 著幾顆農場自種的新鮮猴頭菇，踏上滿足的賦歸
l
famous Fangyu Farm brings nature into its interior spaces. It is a
good place to pick up a gift to bring back home. 之路。
94
the place “Coffin Cave.” “In fact, Maling is also known 瑪陵橋橫跨瑪陵坑溪，是當地相當著名的景點地
標，氣勢雄偉。
as the ‘witch’s tomb’ because it is so secluded,” Lin ex- Imposing Maling Bridge, which arches over Malingkeng
plains. It’s hard to disagree. The place does indeed have Creek, is a famous local landmark.
much of the aura of a mysterious witches’ hideout.

Stephanie’s Amoureux Maison
Having explored all morning, our stomachs are apple iced tea and some soothing orange and cinnamon
rumbling. We ascend the Ride Mine Trail and arrive infusion, lazily taking in the charming European-style
at Stephanie’s Amoureux Maison, which is set amid a garden. What bliss! Before waving goodbye to Maling,
rose garden. The unique Western-style building was we wander over to the famed Fangyu Farm, where we
designed and built by Do Shojen herself. Decorated in bump into its owner, Yang-Zheng Jinman. She points us
the European style, the dining room features displays to some shelves where there is a magnificent array of
of curios collected from around the world and provides pomelo and cinnamon floral waters that she makes her-
expansive views. With its big arched windows that self. We end up bringing home several monkey-head
start at floor level and its beige sofas, the room offers a mushrooms grown on the farm. l
stylishly relaxed atmosphere. (Sharleen Su/photos by Kent Chuang/
After enjoying an exquisite set meal, we order pine- tr. by Jonathan Barnard)
95
產業新創　ENTREPRENEURSHIP
領先全球
無藍害燭光 OLED
抗藍害專家
Leading the World

周卓煇
in Candlelight OLED:
Safe Lighting Expert
Jou Jwo-huei
文•謝宜婷　圖•林旻萱　版面設計•蕭郢岑
96
全球第一座無藍害「燭光OLED」檯燈在台灣
研發產出，當人們在夜間使用時，因為燈光不含 T he world’s first ever table lamp to use “candle
light organic lightemitting diodes,” which
eliminate harmful blue light, has been developed in
藍光，所以體內褪黑激素能正常分泌，有效避免
Taiwan and is being produced here. When the lamp
癌細胞產生，連美國「國際太空站」的固態照明
is used at night, because its light includes no blue
計畫負責人George Brainard，也特地來台取經。 wavelengths, the body can secrete normal amounts
除了有助於人類健康，這項發明也幫助「上帝的 of melatonin, helping to block the development of
部落──司馬庫斯」維持生態，昆蟲不再飛向充 cancer cells. Even the American scientist George
滿藍光的路燈而燙死，星星的光芒也不再被路燈 Brainard, who designed the solidstate lighting sys
掩蓋。 tem for the International Space Station, has come to
Taiwan to learn about it. Besides its benefits for hu
man health, this invention is also helping the Atayal
光的形式千變萬化，從遠古的火、蠟燭、油
village of Smangus to protect its environment: With
燈，到現代的白熾燈、日光燈、LED，雖然取得方
out blue light in its streetlights, insects will no lon
式越來越方便，但看不見的危害卻越來越嚴重。蠟 ger fly toward them and be burned to death, and the
燭燃燒會產生PM2.5，煤油燈會產生刺鼻臭味，日 twinkling of the stars will no longer be hidden.
光燈的紫外光強，而且含有毒的汞。近代發展快速
的LED（發光二極體），耗電量低、亮度高，看似 Jou Jwo-huei, a professor in the Department of Mater-
是照明界一大突破，卻富含藍光，如果在夜間長時 ials Science and Engineering at National Tsing Hua Uni-
versity (NTHU), led an R&D team in developing a table
間使用，會對眼睛與生理造成危害。
lamp using organic light-emitting diodes (OLED) with
直到清華大學材料科學工程學系教授周卓煇，
a visible color spectrum similar to candlelight. Not only
帶領團隊研發出類似燭光的OLED（有機發光二
does it eliminate blue light, but compared to LED lamps its
極體）檯燈，不但除去藍光，而且與LED相較， light is better suited to activities requiring up-close vision.
其發光方式更有助於近距離的用眼活動。在手機 In this age of ubiquitous use of mobile phones and tablet
與平板被過度使用的年代，周卓煇要向大眾傳揚 computers, Jou wants to spread the “candlelight OLED”
「燭光OLED」的福音，讓真正的好光被看見。 gospel to enable people to enjoy higher-quality light.
Candlelight OLED: No blue light hazard
燭光OLED：無藍害光芒 When we enter Jou Jwo-huei’s lab, the overhead light-
ing is turned off, leaving only natural light shining into
走進周卓煇的研究室，天花板的燈關著，只靠
the room. Two lamps are set out on a desk, one being a
自然的採光，辦公桌上擺著兩盞燈，一座是常見
conventional LED lamp and the other a candlelight OLED
的LED檯燈，另一座是燭光OLED三瓣燈，他透 lamp. Looking at us through yellow spectacle lenses—
過黃色的抗藍光鏡片，看了採訪團隊，接著熱情 which block out blue light—Jou says warmly: “Try them
地說：「試試看！兩個差在哪裡？」一打開LED yourselves! What’s the difference between them?” When
燈，刺眼的白光讓人忍不住瞇眼，但燭光OLED the LED lamp is turned on, the glaring white light forces
燈的橘光柔和，眼睛可以直視。 one to squint. But one can look directly at the soft orange
light of the candlelight OLED lamp without discomfort.
「OLED與LED很大的差異在於光源，OLED是
“The biggest difference between OLED and LED is in
平面光，LED是點狀光源。」周卓煇說明。LED
the light source: OLED is a planar light source while LED
發光單位的尺寸比鹽巴顆粒還小，光線過度集
is a point light source,” Jou explains. The light-emitting
中、刺眼，如果要作為照明，就必須先將光線均 units in an LED are smaller than a grain of salt, and the
勻分散，才能使用。相較之下，OLED的結構是 highly concentrated light rays may irritate the eyes. To
兩層半導體性質的氧化物，中間夾著一層比頭髮 use LEDs for lighting, one must first diffuse the light
還細一千倍的發光材料。對眼睛來說，亮度均勻 rays and spread them evenly. By contrast, an OLED is
的平面光比較不會有負擔。 composed of two layers of semiconducting oxides with a
97
「你們可以摸摸看，燭光OLED燈不會燙！」多的「藍漏」現象。有些民眾使用橘白光LED檯
周卓煇自信地說。清大照明團隊研發的燭光燈，卻發現「光越來越藍了！」原因很有可能是
OLED燈色溫只有1700K，遠低於現有暖白光的黃色的螢光粉開始失效，更多藍光開始釋出。
3000K，冷白色光LED的色溫則在6000K上下，溫
藍光要適時、適量
度高、能量強，若在這樣的環境下工作，沒有定
時讓眼睛休息，對靈魂之窗的傷害很大。周卓煇是全台第一位開設「工程倫理」課程的
有些LED燈為了達到護眼功用，使用橘白色的老師，為了準備這門課，他也開始研究「醫學倫
燈光，乍看之下，比藍白光柔和許多，但周卓煇理」，這才發現平常研究的「光」，對生理運作
提醒，暖白光LED的發光原理是用部分藍光擊打有重要的影響。
黃色螢光粉，螢光粉的壽命不如藍光LED，時間「我讀了一千多篇paper，了解到最新的醫學發
久了，便無法再吸收藍光，而導致藍光越來越展。」周卓煇說，白天照藍光，會刺激松果體分
泌，人會感到興奮、有活力；但是晚上照藍光，會
抑制褪黑激素分泌，無法達到原本「抗癌」、「抗
利尿」的作用，因此，有些人會「夜間頻尿」，甚
至增加男生罹患攝護腺癌、女生罹患乳癌的機率。
2012年研發成功的燭光OLED，於2014年被收
錄於《臨床醫師癌症期刊》的〈現代世界電力照
明引發乳癌與節律破壞〉，文中指出在工業化國
家，婦女因乳癌死亡的現象更明顯，如果夜間照
明與乳癌有關聯，那麼可改善的便是實施符合晝
夜變化的節律照明與使用清大發明的燭光OLED。
現代人生活忙碌，不少人入夜後還要工作，或
是因為生活壓力大，所以熬夜在所難免，LED和
3C螢幕的藍光趁機而入，干擾身體在夜晚要進行
的「暗黑工程」。身為基督徒的周卓煇，引用聖
經經文提醒大家，「不要為明天憂慮，因為明天
自有明天的憂慮，一天的難處一天當就夠了」，
晚上就該好好休息。
新技術吸引國際目光
問起周卓煇如何研發出這項領先全球的發明，
他笑著說：「OLED照明的技術很困難，所以要
多鼓勵學生，只要實驗有一點變化就稱讚他們，
留意意料外的現象，而且永不放棄！」團隊在
2009年先研發出「類太陽光」，他們調整了電子
清大照明團隊研發的燭光OLED於2015 年獲得「國際暗天協
會」的照明設計獎。
The candlelight OLED developed by the OLED lighting R&D
team at NTHU won the 2015 Lighting Award of the International
Dark-Sky Association.
98
layer of light-emitting material between them that is 1000
times thinner than a human hair. The even brightness of
the planar light source is easier on the eyes.
“You can feel for yourselves—the candlelight OLED
lamp isn’t hot to the touch!” says Jou with confidence. The
color temperature of the candlelight OLED lamp devel-
oped by the OLED lighting R&D team at NTHU is only
1700 Kelvin, far lower than the 3000K of existing warm
white light lamps. Meanwhile, the color temperature of
cool white LED lamps is around 6000K, and they operate
at high temperatures and emit a lot of energy. People who
work in such environments can do serious harm to their
eyes if they do not rest them regularly.
To protect the eyes, some LED lamps use orange–yellow
light, which at first glance appears much softer than blue– 將「藍害量化光譜儀」放置在白光LED檯燈下，顯示藍
white light. But Jou cautions that the principle behind 光的波峰特別高。
When a quantitative spectroradiometer is placed under a
such LED lighting is to shine blue light onto a fluorescent white LED table lamp, it shows an especially high peak for
blue light.
layer of yellow phosphor. The service life of the phosphor
coating is not as long as that of the blue light LED, so that
after some time it can no longer absorb blue light, leading
燭光OLED不只對人的生理有益，也有助於文物保存，
to “blue leakage,” with more and more blue light getting 不像LED光照會讓博物館內的名畫漸漸「轉褐」。
out. Some people who use orange–yellow LED table lamps Candlelight OLED lighting is not only beneficial to human
health, it also helps preserve cultural artifacts, whereas LED
notice that over time the light grows increasingly blue. lighting gradually darkens paintings.
99
燭光OLED三瓣燈也稱Lily燈，由
清大照明團隊的合作夥伴南京第
壹設計。
This candlelight OLED lamp, known
as the Lily Lamp, was designed
by the First O-Lite Company, a
collaborative partner of NTHU’s
OLED lighting R&D team.
氧化的障礙，讓光可以同時在不同的發光層發昂貴，一公克高達三∼五萬，因此台灣的光電大廠
光，此外，也在原有的紅色與藍色發光層，多置友達、奇美、東元早在2006年紛紛退出這個市場，
放一層太陽光互補色的綠色發光層。後來，再於若要將燭光OLED商品化，需要國際大廠的合作，
2012年開發出燭光OLED。幸運的是，2018年，在南京第壹有機光電公司的協
這兩項發明都獲得專利，問世後也吸引國際關助下，清大正式發表全球第一盞燭光OLED檯燈。
注，2010年，全球第一位發明白光OLED的日本
推廣好光是使命
科學家城戶淳二，特地到清華大學與照明團隊交
流；2015年，製造OLED面板的韓國大廠LG化學曾因為是全台最晚有電力供應而被稱為「黑暗
公司來台拜訪；同年，還獲得國際暗空協會的年部落」的司馬庫斯，其實也遭受光汙染，周卓煇
度「照明設計獎」。有次上山時，發現當地夜晚的自然景色與星空，
這項發明在經濟部計畫補助下，清大與台灣的智被路燈的強光遮蓋，與牧師討論後，計畫以燭光
晶光電開發量產技術，不過因為OLED的研發費用 OLED燈替換。
100
This may be because the orange–yellow phosphor has With grants from the Ministry of Economic Affairs,
begun to fail, allowing more blue light to be emitted. NTHU and Taiwan’s WiseChip Semiconductor Com-
Blue light: A right time and a wrong time pany began to develop mass-production capabilities
Jou is the first teacher in Taiwan to offer a course in for candlelight OLED. In 2018, with assistance from the
engineering ethics. To prepare for this class, he began First O-Lite company of Nanjing, NTHU launched the
researching medical ethics. Only then did he discover world’s first candlelight OLED table lamp.
the important impact of light—the usual subject of his The mission: Good lighting
research—on human physiology. The Atayal indigenous community of Smangus,
“I read over 1000 papers in order to get up to date which was known as “the dark village” because it was
with the latest medical developments.” Jou explains that the last place in Taiwan to get electricity, later suffered
when blue light is used at night, it inhibits the secretion from severe light pollution. Once when Jou went up
of melatonin in the pineal gland, so that the hormone into the mountains to do volunteer work there, he dis-
fails to fulfill its antidiuretic and anticancer functions. covered that the natural nighttime scenery and stars
This causes some people to suffer “nocturia”—the need were obscured by bright street lights. After discussing
to urinate at night—and increases the risk of prostate the matter with the local pastor, a plan was made to
cancer in men and breast cancer in women. replace them with candlelight OLED street lights.
In 2014, the medical journal CA: A Cancer Journal for The village is communally managed, and Jou first
Clinicians carried an article entitled “Breast Cancer and made his proposal in the church, introducing the eco-
Circadian Disruption from Electric Lighting in the Mod- logical advantages of candlelight OLED. Work on the
ern World,” which includes a discussion of the candle- project only began after getting everyone’s agreement.
light OLED that was successfully developed in 2012. The Tribal elder Yuraw Icyang recalls the moment when
article points out that death rates from breast cancer are the candlelight OLED lamps were lit. “I was really
higher among women in industrialized nations. If there moved, because the feeling was very gentle, just like
is a connection between nighttime lighting and breast when I was small and my father and adults in the com-
cancer, then improve ments could be made by using munity lit the resin of the Taiwan white pine.” Yuraw
either lighting that varies in accordance with circadian Icyang hopes that the experience of Smangus will help
rhythms, or the candlelight OLED invented at NTHU. more people understand the importance of good light
International attention for health and the environment.
The NTHU R&D team first created a “sunlight-style” In Jou’s view, not only is there not enough good
OLED in 2009, and then developed the candlelight OLED lighting, but genuine protection will only come from
in 2012. knowledge and tools that eliminate blue light hazard.
These two inventions were both patented and attracted This is why he published the book Embracing Darkness
international attention. In 2010, Japanese scientist Junji to promote knowledge about the use of light, and set
Kido, the first person to invent a white OLED, made a up a Facebook fanpage on the hazards of blue light,
special trip to NTHU to exchange views with the OLED posting videos that share medical concepts about the
lighting team. In 2015, staff from the giant Korean firm LG effects of light on sleep. He uses the “blue light hazard
Chem, which manufactures OLED panels, came to Taiwan quantitat ive spectroradiometer” developed and pat-
for a visit. That same year Jou Jwo-huei won the Lighting ented by NTHU to measure office lighting and LED
Award of the International Dark-Sky Association. table lamps, and he publishes quantitative data about
101
燭光OLED三瓣燈安裝在司馬庫斯的小木屋，柔和的燈色與
自然美景相映。（清大OLED照明團隊提供）
A candlelight OLED lamp installed in a holiday cabin in the
Atayal indigenous community of Smangus. The soft color of the
lamplight sets off the beauty of the natural scenery. (courtesy of
NTHU OLED lighting R&D team)
在共營制的司馬庫斯部落，周卓煇先在教堂裡
提案，向村民介紹燭光OLED與其對生態的好處，
取得大家同意後，才開始動工。不過，將燭光
OLED安裝在大自然中，有更多細節要處理，像是
防水的燈罩就是一大挑戰。經過四年的停頓與調
整，大約300台燭光OLED三瓣燈掛上部落樹幹。
安裝於司馬庫斯的燭光OLED路燈，其藤製的燈罩可以避免光
部落長老優繞．依將回憶燭光OLED被點亮的線照向天空，造成夜空污染。（清大OLED照明團隊提供）
那刻，「我心裡真的很感動，彷彿看到小時候爸 Candlelight OLED street lights installed in Smangus have rattan
lampshades that limit light pollution by blocking the light from
爸跟部落的長輩點亮五葉松松脂的感覺，很溫 shining upwards. (courtesy of NTHU OLED lighting R&D team)
柔。」他希望透過司馬庫斯的嘗試，讓更多人知
道好光對人體與環境的重要。
various levels of blue light regarding the harm they may
對周卓煇而言，除了好光還不夠，擁有抗藍光
cause to the eyes, their effect on melatonin synthesis, and
的知識與工具，才能達到真正保護。因此，他出版
maximum safe usage times.
專書《擁抱暗黑》推廣用光的正確知識，也開設臉 In collaboration with the Southern Taiwan Science
書粉專「抗藍害專家」，在影片中分享用光與睡眠 Park, the OLED lighting R&D team set up the Orange
的醫學觀念。他使用清大的專利研發「藍害量化光 Babe Technology Company to sell candlelight OLED table
譜儀」，來量測辦公室的燈、LED檯燈，告訴民眾 lamps and blue light blocking glasses. At present, be-
在特定亮度的藍光下，對眼睛的傷害、對褪黑激素 cause the production volume of the table lamps is low, the
prices are high, but they should fall to affordable levels
的影響、眼睛最長使用時間等量化數據。
once production is ramped up. Jou also plans to come out
清大照明團隊也在南部科學園區計畫下，成立
with an English edition of Embracing Darkness in hopes
「橘寶科技」公司，販售燭光OLED檯燈與抗藍光
of raising the international profile of his “illuminating”
眼鏡。目前檯燈因為少量生產，因此價格昂貴，未 ideas and this brilliant Taiwanese invention, which he be-
來大量產製後，價格會較親民。周卓煇也計畫推出 lieves will be a boon to human eyes and health. l
《擁抱暗黑》的英文版，希望讓這盞「台灣之光」 (Tina Xie/photos by Lin Minhsuan/
被世界看見，成為更多人眼睛與身體的祝福。 l tr. by Phil Newell)
102
司馬庫斯是全球第一座「無藍害照明示範部落」，並
於2020年獲得台灣光環境獎。（中強光電文化藝術基
金會提供，趙宇晨攝）
Smangus is the world’s first demonstration community for
blue-hazard-free lighting, and in 2020 won a Taiwan Light
Environment Award. (photo by Zhao Yuchen, courtesy of
Coretronic Culture and Arts Foundation)
103
產業新創　ENTREPRENEURSHIP
廢太陽能板完全回收系統
The Last Piece

of the PV Puzzle:
Recycling Solar Panels
文•陳群芳　圖•莊坤儒
版面設計•蕭郢岑
根據環保署預估，台灣的太陽能
板廢棄物在2023年約產生一萬公噸，
2035年起每年則將超過十萬公噸；而
以國際再生能源總署的預測模型來推
估，至2050年全球的廢太陽能板將
達到9.1億公噸，相當於2.2億隻亞洲
象。發展潔淨能源的美意，恐被棘手
的廢棄物問題而掩蓋，廢太陽能板的
回收已是全球當務之急。
104
台南大學綠能所的研究團隊以「永續物命」是採用矽晶製作的矽晶太陽能電池，因此太陽
為理念，領先國際開發出完全回收系統。他們打能板的主要材料裡大約是75%玻璃、10%鋁、
造太陽光電產業的循環經濟，為世紀難題找到解 10%EVA塑膠，其他還有矽、銅、銀等。「太
方，也為台灣的光電產業闢出一條新路。陽能板可以耐受日曬、風吹雨打至少20年，代
表這些材料的等級是很高的，應該被回收再利
夏季中南部艷陽高照，太陽能板努力地做工。用。」台南大學綠色能源科技學系教授傅耀賢
若是民間集資架設，大家正開心賺進躉售電價，表示。
朝著潔淨能源的目標邁進。但這些裝設在屋頂、
空地上的太陽能板，並非長命百歲，以現行技
術，太陽能板壽命大約20年，而遭遇天災、鳥糞
等攻擊造成的損壞也時有所聞。當我們認為大幅
使用太陽能，可以延緩氣候變遷之時，大家可曾
想過，這些退役的太陽能板將何去何從？
國際級超級任務
一塊太陽能板的組成，是將太陽能電池以封裝
材料如EVA塑膠，封裝在玻璃與背板之間，然後
在四周裝上鋁框。而市面上九成的太陽能電池，
M odeling b y the Inte r nat ional R e newable

Energy Agency (IRENA) predicts that the
world will have more than 900 million metric tons
of solar panel waste on its hands by 2050. But find-
ing ways to recycle old panels has already become a
pressing global concern.
A research team with National University of
Tainan’s Graduate Institute of Greenergy is at the
forefront of international efforts to fully recycle
solar panels. The team’s aim is to generate new op-
portunities for Taiwan’s photovoltaic power indus- 投入光電研究20多年，傅耀賢拿著曾經熱門的薄膜太陽能
try by creating a circular economy in solar panels. 電池，娓娓道出產業的興衰。
Fu Yaw-shyan has been researching solar power for more than
20 years. Here, he makes a point about the industry’s ups and
downs by holding up a now obsolescent thin-film solar cell.
As brilliant summer sunlight streams down upon
central and southern Taiwan, the area’s photovoltaic
(PV) panels are hard at work generating power. But
these solar panels won’t last forever. Those made with An international mission
current technology have a nominal service life of 20- Solar panels primarily consist of glass (75%), alu-
some years, and natural disasters can shorten their life minum (10%), and the copolymer ethylene vinyl acet-
expectancy. If we accept the need for large-scale use of ate (EVA, 10%), along with smaller amounts of silicon,
green energy to slow the progress of climate change, copper and silver. “Solar panels are able to withstand
we must also give thought to what to do with retired at least 20 years of wind, rain and sun because these
solar panels. materials are of high quality. They should be recycled
105
左邊的石英砂經過純化，
變成右邊冶金級的矽，是
太陽光電產業與半導體產
業的重要原料。
The quartz on the left
can be refined into the
metallurgical grade silicon
(MGS) on the right. MGS
is a key raw material for
the PV and semiconductor
industries.
歐洲的太陽光電發展較早，也較快就面臨廢造成環境汙染的隱憂，這豈不有違發展綠能的初
太陽能板的處理，因此，目前國際上處理廢太衷，促使傅耀賢與研究團隊，立志要做到太陽能
陽能板回收，主要是由歐盟成立的組織「P V 板完全回收。
Cycle」領頭。PV Cycle的處理方法是先將鋁框
領先全球的完全回收系統
卸除，再以機械破碎方式分成玻璃、金屬、塑
膠，其中塑膠會再以熱裂解的方式，將EVA膠合求學時代主修化學，傅耀賢2001年博士班畢業
層及背板以高溫氣化，最後回收鋁、矽、銅、後便進入工研院，鑽研新材料在太陽能的應用，
銀、玻璃等材料。接著到台南大學任教，繼續太陽光電的研究。20
熱裂解可以想像成是沒有氧氣的燃燒，當太陽多年不間斷的研究生涯，傅耀賢見證了太陽光電
能板上的材料經過裂解後，會被碳化或是變成氣的起伏興衰。傅耀賢表示，冶金級的矽曾經要價
體。然而太陽能板的背板裡含有氟，燃燒後的氣 1公斤1萬元台幣，當時矽晶太陽能電池的成本非
體會破壞臭氧層，所以採用熱裂解的方式，必須常高，於是投入研究能替代矽晶的薄膜太陽能電
建置捕捉有毒氣體的設備，再妥善處理。這也是池。原本矽晶電池一瓦售價3.4美金，成本1.8美金
為什麼PV Cycle的回收產線需要像煉鋼廠的大空的薄膜電池具有優勢；隨著矽晶成本降低，現在
間，且一台設備要價將近台幣一億元。矽晶太陽能電池每瓦只要0.4美金，轉換效率差、
傅耀賢指出，歐洲的回收產業不像台灣發達，成本相對高的薄膜太陽能電池被淘汰，台灣廠商
對他們而言，E VA、含氟背板的回收產值都太也倒了好幾間。傅耀賢轉而研究鈣鈦礦太陽能電
低，即使大費周章回收，也無處可用，最後還是池，並持續尋找能促進產業發展的研究方向。
得找地方掩埋或燒掉；且現階段歐洲也沒有技術當國際間大力推動綠能，以2050年淨零碳排為
將這些物質從太陽能板上分離，才會一開始就選目標時，傅耀賢意識到太陽能蓬勃發展的背後，
擇燒掉。傅耀賢以含氟背板的成分PVDF為例，是廢太陽能板回收的問題。「如果只是燒掉，沒
「PVDF的新料一公斤1,300元，回收後也有幾百有循環回收再使用，那全世界每年製造的廢棄
元的價值，但當把它燒掉，價值就是零，還要花物量將以億噸算，這樣太陽能發電還算是環保
錢處理廢氣。」不忍有用的材料被廢棄，還會嗎？」傅耀賢自問。
106
and reused,” says Fu Yaw-shyan, a professor in the De- would end up going into a landfill or being incinerated.
partment of Greenergy at National University of Tainan. Europe currently also lacks the technology to mechanically
PV Cycle, a member-based PV takeback and recyc- separate these materials from solar panels, which is why
ling scheme established by the European Union, is cur- processors just burn them off. Fu resolved to find ways to
rently the world leader in solar panel recycling. Proces- fully recycle PV panels because he believes that wasting
sors typically disassemble the aluminum frames of the useful materials and letting them become a pollution con-
panels, then shred the remaining material and heat it to cern is antithetical to the goals of green energy.
vaporize the EVA polymers and backsheets. The process A comprehensive recycling system
enables the recovery of most of the aluminum, silicon, Fu’s background is in chemistry. After completing his
copper, silver and glass in the panels. PhD in 2001, he went to work for the Industrial Technology
Unfortunately, the panels’ backsheets typically con- Research Institute investigating the solar energy applica-
tain fluorine, which is released when the backsheets are tions of new materials. He then became a professor at Na-
pyrolyzed. Flourine damages the ozone layer, so recyc- tional University of Tainan, where he continued his solar
ling facilities have to install equipment to capture it, energy research. Fu has seen the ups and downs of solar at
making the facilities as large as steel mills, and driving first hand throughout his more than 20-year research career.
their construction costs to nearly NT$100 million. When the international community began a big push
Fu says that Europe’s recycling industry isn’t as devel- into green energy, aiming for net zero carbon emissions by
oped as Taiwan’s, and doesn’t bother recycling EVA and 2050, solar power entered a period of rapid development.
backsheets. Even if the Europeans went to the trouble Fu recognized that this growth was going to make PV
of doing so, the materials have so little value that they panel recycling a serious issue.
團隊以物理性技術，一層層拆解太陽能
板，成功做到完全回收。圖為回收後的部
分原料，左起：玻璃、EVA、矽。
Fu’s team uses physical reduction to separate
PV panels into layers, enabling them to be
fully recycled. The photos show glass, EVA,
and silicon recovered by the process.
（劉真誠提供　process diagram courtesy of Liu Cheng-chen）
107
於是2017年，傅耀賢帶領團隊開始進行回收的研
正價回收，太陽光電的循環經濟
究。化學出身的他們，起初以化學分解的方式切入，
但溶劑會造成二次汙染，即使研究有成，仍沒想過推光把材料逐項回收還不夠，為讓太陽能板回收
廣。團隊改嘗試物理性技術，以破壞材料接面親和有機會帶動產業發展，團隊繼續研究回收後的材
力的方式，一層一層的拆解太陽能板。台灣是工具機料應用，探索商業模式的可行性。核心成員之一
大國，具備精密機械技術的深厚基礎，團隊與多間的洪嘉聰博士表示，回收技術研發的過程中，其
廠商合作研發，克服機器升溫膠合層會沾黏等問題。實數度有廠商想向傅耀賢買下技術。傳統的學術
經過不斷地研究，如今最新的技術是，機台在室溫研究，或許就止步於單項技術開發，但傅耀賢知
下即可進行太陽能板拆解，不需要增溫，可在不破道，技術轉移後，在商言商，人們只會取用價值
壞材料原有特性的原則下，成功將鋁框、矽晶、玻高的材料，如矽、銀，而EVA、玻璃等商業價值
璃、EVA、PVDF、貴重金屬等分別回收。低的材料，可能就被廢棄；所以必須開發各種回
108
using joint R&D efforts with a number of companies
to draw on their deep well of expertise. Its most recent
method has been to run the machines disassembling the
panels at room temperature, which allows the aluminum
frames, silicon, glass, EVA, polyvinylidene difluoride
(PVDF) and valuable metals to be separated from one
another while maintaining their original characteristics.
Cash-positive recycling
The team has also continued to investigate applications
for recycled materials as a means of furthering the indus-
try’s development. Andrew Hung, a core team mem-
ber, says that many firms approached Fu about buying
technology while the group was still conducting its R&D.
Fu has declined their offers because he feels that business
團隊致力研究太陽能板回收後的處理
being business, these companies would only extract and
與應用，建構太陽光電的循環經濟。
左起：戴學斌、傅耀賢、劉真誠、柯 reuse the high-value materials, while dumping materials
昊葳、洪嘉聰。 with lower commercial value, like glass and EVA, into the
The team is doing its utmost to build a
circular economy in PV cells by developing waste stream. He believes that finding a real way forward
recycling methods and applications for
recycled materials. From left to right: Dai
on the disposition of old PV panels means developing
Shyue-bin, Fu Yaw-shyan, Liu Cheng- applications for all of the recovered materials, so that
chen, Ke How-wei, and Andrew Hung.
those materials can be fed back into the industrial chain.
Fu says that Taiwan has the advantage of having a
complete recycling ecosystem that enables companies
here to transform waste materials regarded as trash in
other countries into gold.
While the EVA recovered from PV panels isn’t as
pure as virgin EVA (the bonding process results in metal
contamination), the team was able to turn this to their
advantage by developing products that use metal-doped
EVA, such as antistatic shoes for use in clean rooms.
If the PVDF stripped from solar panels is processed
by pyrolysis, it produces hydrofluorocarbons that dam-
age the Earth’s ozone layer. Fu’s team is therefore look-
ing for ways to take advantage of PVDF’s acid–alkali
He established a research group to study the issue in resistance, evaluating the feasibility of using it in indus-
2017. With its background in chemistry, the group’s entry trial paints, piping for industrial wastewater, or even
point was via chemical decomposition. But even though water filters for reservoirs. If they deem an application
their research yielded results, they didn’t seek to com- highly promising, they examine it in greater depth.
mercialize their methods because the solvents required Innovative thinking
were themselves pollutants. They then looked into ap- The team’s goals go beyond recycling to finding ways
proaches using physical reduction, breaking the physical to upcycle and recover materials. The glass that consti-
bonds between the materials and splitting the panels tutes the bulk of a solar panel is a case in point. While
apart layer by layer. But this raised a new problem: as most recyclers find it a burden because of its low resale
their recycling equipment warmed up, the adhesives value, Fu’s team has developed a method to turn it into
used in the panels began sticking to everything. The a different kind of solar panel.
group turned to Taiwan’s machine tool industry for help, In traditional solar panels, f lat glass plates are
109
收材料的加值應用，將整條產業鏈串起來，才能水器，評估哪種用途的可行性、商業價值比較
真的為廢太陽能板找到出路。高，再持續邁進。
傅耀賢表示，台灣有著回收產業鏈完整的優
創新思維，不再與民爭地
勢，其他國家眼中的廢棄物，台灣的廠商卻有辦
法把垃圾變黃金，就像台灣有領先全球的寶特紗團隊的理念是，不光做到回收（r e c y c l e），
紡織技術。回收料對台灣廠商而言是能節省成本還要創價（u p c y c l i n g），甚至要做到回復
的原料，不用從石油提煉新料，也不用挖礦，為（recovery），讓回收後的材料重新變成太陽能
地球省下資源。板。太陽能板裡占比最大的玻璃，也是最棘手、
從太陽能板上回收下來的EVA，因為封裝膠合大家最不想碰觸的問題，傅耀賢的團隊卻能將從
的過程會混雜金屬，所以純度不若新料高。團隊太陽能板回收的玻璃，變成另一種形式的太陽能
化缺點為優點，開發本來就要在EVA添加金屬的板，延續它的生命。
產品，例如無塵室裡具抗靜電材質的鞋子。在團傳統的太陽能板使用的是平板玻璃，必須加裝
隊的努力下，現在已有廠商願意使用從太陽能板鋁框強化玻璃的耐受力。傅耀賢團隊從名為「槽型
回收來的EVA，來製作鞋子、瑜珈墊等。玻璃」的建材為發想，並將太陽能電池嵌入玻璃
從太陽能背板上刨下來的P V D F，若以熱裂中，開發出使用回收玻璃製作槽型光電玻璃的製
解的方法處理，其產生的氫氟碳化物會對臭氧程。核心成員之一、具物理專長的戴學斌博士拿了
層造成破壞，但傅耀賢的團隊卻是利用P V D F 一張名片舉例，本來是一張平平的紙無法耐重，但
抗酸鹼的特性，正在研究要做成工業排水的水將兩個短邊往內折兩折後，變成ㄇ字型，讓應力能
管，還是工廠用的塗料，抑或是做成水庫的濾平均展開便能耐重，就是槽型玻璃的原理。
研究團隊以光電建材玻璃搭建太陽
能小屋，成功讓屋裡的電器運轉，
證明垂直使用太陽能板的可行性。
（劉真誠提供）
The research team used its PV
channel glass to build a cabin capable
of generating enough energy to power
the electronics inside, demonstrating
the feasibility of vertical solar panels.
(courtesy of Liu Cheng-chen)
110
mou nted i n a n alum i num frame to provide ext ra
strength. Fu developed a method for turning recycled PV
glass into channel glass, a construction material, and then
added solar cells to the new product. Team member Dai
Shyue-bin, who holds a PhD in physics, uses a namecard
to demonstrate how channel glass works. While a flat
namecard is pretty flimsy, it can hold more weight if you
fold the ends over to create a squared-off u-shape. Dai
says that’s the principle underlying channel glass.
Last September, Fu’s team and the CPC Corporation
built a solar energy cabin from the team’s channel glass.
Team member Dr. Liu Cheng-chen laughs, “The glass
kept getting bashed by hammers during assembly, but
團隊研發的太陽能板回收系統，以全自動化、可放進貨櫃為
the blows didn’t so much as scratch it. It’s clearly plenty 目標，讓機台具備出口國際的潛力。（劉真誠提供）
strong.” The cabin also produced enough power to run the The team is aiming to fully automate its PV panel recycling
system and make it small enough to fit inside a 40-foot container,
air conditioner inside, which has given the team greater to increase its export potential. (courtesy of Liu Cheng-chen)
confidence in promoting PV construction materials.
The group believes that if solar panels can be integrated
以槽型玻璃構想研發出光電建材，安全係數比玻璃帷幕大樓
into buildings, builders can provide generating capacity 高，90公斤的人站上去也沒問題。
for just the cost of the construction materials. Fu thinks it Able to easily bear the weight of a 90-kilogram person, the team’s
PV channel glass has a higher safety factor than the glass used
would be feasible to install the team’s new panels in struc- for glass-curtain buildings.
tures such as the noise barriers lining highways and along

pedestrian walkways. In addition to lowering the cost of
integrating PV power, this would also reduce the competi-
tion for land between PV installers and the public.
Building a future for PV
The team has been researching PV panel recycling
for five years, and is currently raising funds to cover the
cost of certifying its PV building material. The group
believes that obtaining both PV and construction certifi-
cations for its product will help broaden the PV industry’s
outlook. The team is also testing out the automation of
its recycling machines with the goal of building a fully
automated production line that can be installed in a 40-
foot shipping container. The success of that effort would
enable PV recycling facilities to be shipped anywhere in
the world they are needed, saving the energy that would
otherwise be used to ship decommissioned PV panels to
a distant recycler. Such technology could open up new
international markets for Taiwan.
Asked whether the team has struggled with any obsta-
cles in the last five years, Fu laughs and says, “We’ve hit
many, but we’ve pushed through them all.” Their recycling
technology alone has undergone three major revisions,
111
去年九月，傅耀賢的團隊與中油合作，使用協助下，傅耀賢還要學習企管、募資等各項知
他們開發的槽型玻璃來搭建一間太陽能屋，核識，早已超過人們對大學教授的想像。包含傅耀
心成員劉真誠博士笑說：「架設的過程中榔頭賢在內的四位團隊核心成員，已決定就算賣地賣
不時會敲中玻璃，可一點事兒也沒有，表示這房，也要拿出百萬積蓄，作為公司營運的資金。
個建材的強度真的夠。」而太陽能屋所發的電戴學斌笑說，傅耀賢像是傳教士，總提醒團隊把
力，也足夠供應裡頭的冷氣使用，增強了團隊太陽能板回收當成志業。「因為這是對環境有幫
推展光電建材的信心。助的事，能不能賺錢不知道，但做這件事是快樂
為了增加太陽能占整體發電的比例，勢必得的。」傅耀賢義無反顧地說。 l
大量增加太陽能板的鋪設，所以太陽能發電一
直有與民爭地的問題。團隊的構想是，太陽能
板若能跟建築物整合，只要花費建材成本，便
能達到發電效果，例如高速公路的隔音牆、人
行道等，都是傅耀賢認為可行的裝設場所。如
此不僅大幅降低搭建太陽能板的成本，更能將
太陽光電融入生活，就不需要特地找空間來裝
設，解決與民爭地的問題。
許光電產業一個未來
團隊投入太陽能板回收的研究已經五年，如
今，光電建材正籌募認證經費，並已有國內外
廠商表達合作意願，一旦通過建材與光電的雙
台灣的團隊致力研究
認證，便能為光電產業拓展另一種視野。回收太陽能板完全回收，
機台設備也已進入自動化的測試階段，團隊還為廢太陽能板的問題
帶來解方，實踐永續
計畫打造一條全自動化、能裝進40呎貨櫃的產綠能的目標。
The Taiwanese
線，如此一來便能將回收裝置送到世界各地， research team is
striving to resolve the
節省大型太陽能電廠運輸廢太陽能板所耗費的 problem of PV panel
能源，也意味著台灣能藉由太陽能板回收的技 waste and make
green energy truly
術，在國際市場闢出一條新路。 sustainable by finding
ways to fully recycle
問傅耀賢這五年來是否遇過瓶頸？他笑笑地 solar panels.
說：「走到盡頭很多次，但是都熬過了。」光
是回收技術的改良就歷經三次大變動，許多起
初理念契合的廠商，開始很支持，但後來等不
下去而放棄，一度令傅耀賢沮喪。他明白從零
開始的研究，很難讓要養員工的企業願意投
入，所以傅耀賢申請政府計畫來取得經費，一
點一滴地讓研究往前推進。他說，如何爭取計
畫、如何提高技術門檻，這些都是團隊時時刻
刻在面對的挑戰。
這幾年政府鼓勵大學成立公司，讓研究成果
能與產業接軌，團隊成立台南大學第一個因計
畫成果衍生的新創公司。在教育部與科技部的
112
and many firms that were initially very supportive of raise millions of NT dollars to fund their operations, even
their efforts have gotten tired of waiting and given up. if they had to sell their own homes to do so. Dai Shyue-
The team is constantly dealing with the challenges of how bin laughs and tells us that Fu is like a missionary, con-
to win grants and raise the technological barriers to entry. stantly encouraging team members to look on PV panel
For the last few years, the government has been encour- recycling as a vocation. Fu himself says, “I’m not sure this
aging universities to establish companies as a means of will ever turn a profit, but I’m happy to be doing it even
getting their research into the hands of industry. Fu’s team so, because our work will benefit the environment.” l
was the first from NUTN to do so. He and the other three (Chen Chun-fang/photos by Kent Chuang/
core members of his team decided that they needed to tr. by Scott Williams)
113
多元族群　COMMUNITIES
東南亞表演藝術在台現況與省思
Soundscapes of Immigrant Life:

Southeast-Asian
Performance Art in Taiwan
文•劉亭均　圖•林旻萱　版面設計•蕭郢岑
自「新南向政策」實施以來，來台的東南亞新移民們，在經濟與工作上
獲得改善，然而生活品質和精神層面的提升卻並不顯著，「原因出在我們
不夠、也不那麼願意去了解東南亞國家的民族文化。」台南藝術大學民族
音樂學研究所教授蔡宗德認為，台灣是個對世界文化兼容並蓄的國家，台
灣人民熱情而友善，但這份包容的背後，其實隱藏著還有待改善且值得深
思的部分。
S ince the launch of Taiwan’s New Southbound Policy, immigrants from South-
east Asia have been enjoying greater job and financial security. However, their
quality of life and psychological wellbeing still leave much room for improvement.
“This is because we have not been making enough effort to understand the ethnic
cultures of Southeast-Asian countries, nor are we all that willing to do so.” Ted
Tsai, a professor in the Graduate Institute of Ethnomusicology at Tainan National
University of the Arts, thinks that while Taiwan as a whole is tolerant of cultural
differences and its people are friendly and warm-hearted, behind this welcoming
façade there are things that require careful examination and amelioration.
114
（胡明月提供　courtesy of Koming Somawati）
115
在家鄉從未接觸過傳統越南笛的武維俊，來台
後靠著看YouTube自學吹奏，一紓思鄉之情。
Vu Duy Tuan never played the sao meo flute when
he was in Vietnam, but since coming to Taiwan he
has learned to play it by watching YouTube videos.
The music helps keep homesickness at bay.
計畫》裡，他提出了田調觀察多年的
結果：「對東南亞民族來說，音樂與
表演藝術無法與生活切割，那是他們
的精神食糧、心靈支柱。」對於現況
大感遺憾的蔡宗德說：「而在台灣的
新住民和移工們，大多被現實和不平
等待遇給剝奪了這部分。」
東南亞的民族音樂，屬於音樂（音
聲）、舞蹈和戲劇互為主體的形式，
不但自由、多變且獨特，也屬於世界
音樂與民族音樂的顯著特徵。對東南
亞民族來說，表演藝術就像是流淌在
血液裡的紅白血球一樣，是生活跟思
想裡再自然不過的存在。
思鄉，我們是誰？
「新住民與移工們儘管在自己的家
鄉不曾受過專業訓練，來台後，幾乎
都選擇用母國的傳統音樂和舞蹈等表
演藝術，來思念故鄉、保留文化、記
「內化的歧視觀念隨時都有可能以某種型態的言語和行憶語言，更是藉此建構身分認同和抒
動突然出現。」《善良的歧視主義者》作者、長期關注社發情感，人跟人之間也透過這些來交
會議題的韓國江陵原州大學多文化學系教授金知慧，在書流和建立關係。」蔡宗德說：「如果
中提出了與蔡宗德同樣的疑問：「多數人都是善良的，都沒有這些，對他們來說就是生活品質
不想做出歧視的言行，只是自己看不見歧視的時候太多罷的下降，甚至感覺斷開了與原生母國
了。那麼，我們該如何做呢？」不同的是，蔡宗德將這個文化之間的連結。」失去精神支柱的
難題，透過針對東南亞民族音樂和表演藝術的研究，梳理新住民和移工，容易在生活裡迷失方
出如今東南亞新移民在生活層次上的現況和困境，除向台向、產生不滿。這讓蔡宗德注意到表
灣發聲，也對人們提問。演藝術背後所代表的真正問題。
在台灣的東南亞新住民、新二代和
藝術即生活
移工的人數，至今已超過100萬人，
「台灣的政經地位與東北亞國家相似，但在音樂、藝術接近一個直轄市的人口。2019年時蔡
和文化上，其實更接近東南亞各國。」一輩子投身研究世宗德就曾在研究報告中指出，受新南
界各民族音樂的蔡宗德，身兼台灣東南亞諮詢委員會的委向政策的影響，東南亞表演藝術變得
員，在文化部文化交流司所開展的《新南向海外交流專題更受到關注，但若不透過教育或交流
116
Tsai’s work on Southeast-Asian ethnic music and arate music or performance art from their daily lives.
performance art has yielded valuable insights into the Their hearts and souls are sustained by them.”
current conditions of Southeast-Asian immigrants in Southeast-Asian ethnic music is an art form that fea-
Taiwan and the predicaments they face in their daily tures the intersubjectivity of music, dance, and drama. It
lives. He flags up these issues and invites the Taiwanese allows of freedom and variation, and while it is unique,
people to engage with them. it also displays salient traits shared by other types of
Art in daily life world music and ethnic music. Performance art is an
“In terms of political and economic status, Taiwan essential part of Southeast-Asian people’s heritage. Both
resembles the Northeast-Asian countries, but in music, physically and spiritually, it is integral to their existence.
art, and other aspects of culture, it is actually more akin Where is home?
to Southeast Asia,” says Tsai, who has devoted his life to “After coming to Taiwan, migrant workers and long-
studying ethnic music across the world and is a member term immigrants turn to the traditional performance
of Taiwan’s Southeast Asia Advisory Committee. Ad- arts of their native countries, such as music and dance,
vising the Ministry of Culture’s Department of Cultural in order to alleviate homesickness, preserve their cul-
Exchange on a program of collaborative cultural projects tures, and reconnect with their languages. In doing so,
between Taiwan and Southeast Asia, Tsai articulated a they’re able to attain a clearer sense of their own identity
conclusion drawn from many years of field research: “For and express their feelings. They also interact with each
people of Southeast-Asian origin, it’s impossible to sep- other and forge interpersonal connections this way,” Tsai
observes. “Without these things, they
can’t go on to live a good life, and they
may even feel torn from their native
cultures.” Those who lack emotional
support are likely to lose their sense of
purpose and feel disaffected. Tsai has
come to realize that performance art is
relevant to this serious issue.
In Taiwan the total number of South-
east-Asian migrant workers, long-term
immigrants, and their children now
exceeds 1 million, equivalent to the
population of a major municipality. In
2020 the government organized a con-
ference with a view to gaining a deeper
under standing of the experience of
immigrants in Taiwan. “Studies to date
have shown that there are persistent
因母語文化而群聚，用傳統音樂交朋友。
武維俊參加的越南笛團人數眾多，哪怕每
次只有三、五人有空，也持續不懈地找地
方練習、交流。（武維俊提供）
Shared languages and traditional musical
culture bring immigrants together. Vu Duy
Tuan’s Vietnamese flute band has numerous
members. Even though few of them are able
to attend every rehearsal, they are always on
the lookout for opportunities to practice and
exchange ideas. (courtesy of Vu Duy Tuan)
117
層面的執行，終會淪為文化平權的口號而已。去時間更是占了生活大部分時，儘管有了較佳的新
（2020）年政府重新審視這個問題，舉辦了研究住民政策，但『表演藝術』還是一種奢侈。」。
交流會，積極深入了解新移民的「異國」生活。而移工的情況更為嚴峻。無論是否同樣拿著工
「到今年為止的研究顯示，教育和政策的落作簽證來台，相較其他國家，台灣人對移工的想
實尚有問題，東南亞的表演藝術被認為不夠重法與印象截然不同。因為大部分移工的工作性質
要。」蔡宗德轉而嚴肅地說：「其實解決新住民並非高知識專業，而是以體力性質居多，來台工
與移工對生活的需求，才能從根本上提高他們對作的移工都是體能最佳的青壯年。「他們情感豐
台灣經濟和社會上的付出。」沛，對生活熱情無限，但沒有時間也沒有錢外，
包括宗教在內，受到的限制和偏見很多。」蔡宗
經濟與文化，抉擇兩難
德表示目前政策上還不足以照顧到這群71萬多人
蔡宗德認為新住民媳婦面臨的問題，主要在於的族群。
重心放在家庭，自身經濟不獨立，婆家大多希望越南籍吹笛手武維俊來台大約五年，中文說得
她們儘快融入台灣文化，而非去了解媳婦的母國還不十分流暢的他，從事傳統製造業，因要寄錢
文化。「當工作或經濟無法獨立時，照顧家庭的回家，而時常周末加班賺錢，休息時間很有限，
「但有假日，我們就能找朋友。」武維俊的未婚
妻杜金媛，兩人工作不同，某次越南人聚會讓他
們相遇相知。
杜金媛來台很久，從事一天值兩班的餐飲服務
業，能與越南人相聚對她來說很珍貴：「大家都
在不同城市工作，考慮到交通和金錢，我們大多
在火車站附近的公共場所相聚。但是人們聽到我
們在一起聊天、唱歌或跳舞，就會來驅趕。」。
被驅趕久了，聚會變少的武維俊不可避免地思
鄉，他開始聽越南歌，並因此接觸到傳統的越南
橫笛sao meo。「在越南，我從來沒學過笛子，也
看不懂樂譜。某天看到YouTube上有越南老師教
吹越南笛子，讓我很感動。」武維俊重新認識了
自己國家的文化，努力練習，現在他們這群越南
吹笛樂團將近20人，「但平常能有五、六個人聚
在一起，就很不容易了。」
因為團員見面十分不易，尋找能接受
他們的練習場所更是困難，武維德只好
利用下班時間獨自練習，「能用越南的
樂器，吹奏越南的歌曲，是我生活裡很
重要的事。」憨厚的武維俊強調，「其
蔡宗德教授的研究顯示，表演藝術在東南
亞民族的生活和心理上都有著重大意義。
Ted Tsai’s research shows that performance art is
of vital importance to the daily lives and emotional
wellbeing of Southeast Asians in Taiwan.
118
在蔡宗德（中）對東南
亞表演藝術的研究中，
極具貢獻的成員黃筌琳
（右）和蔡秉君（左）
成立了「日央人兒」樂
團，致力保存並發揚印
尼傳統樂器甘美朗。
Huang Chuan-lin (right)
and Tsai Bing Chun (left)
are major contributors
to Ted Tsai’s (center)
research on Southeast-
Asian performance art.
They have founded the
Matahari Ensemble,
dedicated to preserving
and promoting
Indonesia’s traditional
gamelan instruments.
problems in the implementation of education and govern- money home, he often works overtime at weekends. As
ment policies. Southeast-Asian performance art has been a result, he doesn’t have much time at his disposal. “But
dismissed as relatively insignificant,” Tsai says. “In fact, we’re able to meet up with friends whenever there’s a
only if we help immigrants satisfy their daily needs can day off.” Tuan’s fiancée, Do Thi Kim Vien, works in a
we address the fundamental issues and enhance their different place. They met at a Vietnamese gathering.
contribution to Taiwan’s economy and society.” Kim Vien has been in Taiwan for a long time, work-
Between money and culture ing two shifts a day in the hospitality industry. She
Tsai thinks that the problems faced by long-term im- cherishes every opportunity to connect with fellow
migrant women in Taiwan mainly arise from their single- Vietnamese expatriates. “We all work in different cities.
minded commitment to their families, which makes them To save on travel time and expenses, we usually meet
financially dependent. “Even though the government has up in public spaces near railway stations. But when
improved its policies toward immigrants, performance people find us chatting, singing or dancing together,
art becomes an unaffordable luxury when you do not they come and ask us to leave.”
have a job or are not financially independent, and when Discouraged by this unfriendly treatment, they
family life occupies most of your time.” no longer meet up frequently. To assuage his home-
Migrant workers are in an even more difficult situation. sickness, Tuan turned to Vietnamese songs, and later
As most of them are employed as laborers, rather than started to play the traditional Vietnamese flute, sao meo,
as highly skilled workers or intellectuals, they tend to be which helped him reacquaint himself with his native
young people who are physically fit. “They are enthusi- culture. Tuan practices hard. The Vietnamese flute
astic and passionate about life, but they don’t have much band he belongs to has almost 20 members now. “But
free time, nor do they have any money to spare. What’s rarely do more than five or six of us turn up each time.”
more, they’re subject to a lot of restrictions and prejudices, If meeting up is difficult, finding a welcoming place
including religious discrimination.” Tsai adds that current for rehearsals is even more of a challenge, so Tuan of-
policies do not give adequate consideration to migrant ten has to practice alone after work.
workers in Taiwan, who number more than 710,000. What has been overlooked?
Vietnamese flautist Vu Duy Tuan has been in Taiwan “Two years ago, when there was a boom in South-
for some five years. Not yet fluent in Chinese, he works east-Asian performance art, many immigrants were
for a traditional manufacturing company. In order to send very excited about being invited to perform by the
119
實我遇到的台灣人都很好，只是我們有些人中文明月很高興在這裡能認識許多印尼朋友，能再度
說不好，他們容易怕我們。」用母語交談。
胡明月擁有傲人的舞蹈技術與學經歷，她在大
人們忽略的那些事情
學裡開班授課，創立工作室，推出許多峇里島舞
「東南亞表演藝術特別興盛的兩年前，很多新蹈戲劇，積極發展著峇里島舞蹈藝術表演。美麗
住民與移工都很興奮受到政府邀請表演，」蔡宗的她自稱有一張「很印尼」的臉孔，即使說著一
德說：「他們努力練習母國的傳統藝術，希望跟口流利的英文，一看就知道來自東南亞。「我跟
台灣更親近。然而沒演出費，沒有時間讓他們排朋友們去大賣場買生活用品時，店員們會很友善
練，沒有錢租借場地，更別說沒有條款保護他們地跟我交談，」胡明月說：「他們會問我，照顧
的權益。」東南亞的表演藝術受到現實嚴苛的擠爺爺奶奶很辛苦吧？這種工作都沒有休假的。」
壓，蔡宗德語帶遺憾：「於是很快地，許多表演起初胡明月並不明白店員的意思，直到朋友
團體就解散了，部分則大聲地替胡明月「澄
將亡不亡的；想要成立清」：「她是個專業的
的，也組不起來。政策峇里島舞蹈老師！」胡
的不完善，令許多珍貴明月才意識到，印尼女
的表演藝術和族群文化性在台灣存在既定的刻
無法振作，而台灣與他板印象，她們要不是嫁
們合作的機會也越見渺來台灣，不然就是來台
小。」做一周上班七日的看護
身為峇里島國際舞移工。
者的胡明月（K o m i n g 成立全台第一個馬
Somawati），整個家族世來西亞手鼓團的新住民
代從事表演藝術，她從吳振南，現任國立教育
小習舞，「在峇里島，廣播電台主持人，從取
在印尼，唱歌、彈樂器得政大哲學系博士到表
和跳舞都是日常的一部演藝術，他受惠於新南
分。」胡明月的母親已向政策，但也認為在表
經超過70歲，仍然能在舞演藝術上，確實仍有值
台上毫不停歇、大氣不得思考的部分，「東南
喘地舞出一整齣劇。亞的音樂形式是團體式
在來到台灣之前，的，然而因為工作、身
胡明月隨著研究世界音分的不同，群體被切割
樂的美籍丈夫胡敏德身為國際峇里島專業舞者的胡明月，除了開來。」
（Made Mantle Hood）在大學授課外，還開了舞蹈工作室，學生吳振南在馬來西亞
中有新住民和新二代。（胡明月提供）
走遍世界各地。胡敏德 As well as teaching dance classes at 時也不曾學過手鼓，來
universities, professional Balinese dancer
受聘來台擔任南藝大民 Koming Somawati runs her own workshop. 台後思鄉，與同鄉人組
Her students include immigrants and their
族音樂學研究所教授兼 children. (courtesy of Koming Somawati) 團，從頭學起到能上場
所長，只會說英語和母表演。「成員們都是新
語的胡明月跟著到了台灣，她說：「台灣人都很住民，所以能透過『新住民及其子女築夢計畫』
好，態度很親切也很熱情。知道我不會講中文，為手鼓團爭取到經費。但其實申請經費的管道
都盡量用英文跟我溝通，我的學生們也是。」胡十分複雜，要求很多，連新住民看了都很容易
120
（胡明月提供　courtesy of Koming Somawati）
government,” Tsai says. “They took pains to practice dance, she gives classes at universities, runs a workshop,
performing the traditional arts of their native countries, and has put on many dance and theatrical performances.
hoping to connect with Taiwan this way. However, the “When my friends and I go to buy groceries, the staff at
performers weren’t paid, they weren’t allowed time for the shopping malls often talk to me in a friendly way,”
rehearsals, and there were no funds for hiring venues. Somawati says. “They would commiserate with me on the
Needless to say, there wasn’t any regulation protecting hard task of taking care of elderly people—because this
their rights.” These harsh realities have hampered the kind of work doesn’t give you any days off.”
development of Southeast-Asian performance art in Somawati didn’t understand what that meant until a
Taiwan. Tsai expresses his regret: “Our policies have friend explained to the staff on her behalf: “She’s a pro-
left much to be desired. They have failed to encourage fessional Balinese dance teacher!” It was only then that
the growth of invaluable performance arts and ethnic Somawati realized that Indonesian women in Taiwan are
cultures. Collaborative opportunities between Taiwan subjected to certain stereotypes: that they come here either
and these cultures are dwindling accordingly.” to get married or to work as carers seven days a week.
Balinese dancer Koming Somawati started to dance Ngo Jian Nam, an immigrant who founded Taiwan’s
when she was a child. “In Bali, and in Indonesia as a first Malaysian hand drum troupe, and who is cur-
whole, singing, playing musical instruments, and danc- rently a presenter at National Education Radio, agrees
ing are an integral part of everyday life.” that we need to reconsider our policies on performance
Prior to moving to Taiwan, Somawati traveled the art. “Southeast-Asian music has to be performed by
world with her husband, Made Mantle Hood, an Amer- ensembles. But musicians find it difficult to come to-
ican scholar of world music. Hood got a professorship gether because of their jobs and their different immi-
at Tainan National University of the Arts, where he is gration statuses.”
now head of the Graduate Institute of Ethnomusicology. “All the members of our hand drum troupe are long-
Somawati, who can only speak English and her mother term immigrants, so we have been able to obtain funding
tongue, came to Taiwan with her husband. She feels that from the government’s Dream-Building Program for
“Taiwanese people are nice. They’re friendly and wel- New Immigrants and Their Children. But to be frank, the
coming. When they find out I don’t speak Chinese, they application process is very complex, and there are many
try their best to communicate with me in English. My conditions. Even eligible long-term immigrants may feel
students do this, too.” deterred, let alone migrant workers who do not qualify
A highly skilled dancer, Somawati has a distinguished for funding under the scheme.” The situation described
track record. Committed to the promotion of Balinese by Ngo corroborates Ted Tsai’s research findings.
121
由吳振南（左二）和其他團員共組的馬來西亞Tampo手鼓團，成立初衷是相信音
樂能跨越語言和國籍，與人們分享家鄉文化的美好。（林格立攝）
Ngo Jian Nam (second from left) has formed Tampo, a Malaysian hand drum troupe, with
friends. Believing that music can transcend linguistic and national boundaries, they wish
to share the beauty of their native country with Taiwanese people. (photo by Jimmy Lin)
放棄，更何況是根本沒有經費條例可申請的移 Cultural diversity in Taiwan

“Are we ready to provide them with suitable living
工？」吳振南面臨的現況，佐證了蔡宗德的研究
space and adequate room for their pastimes? Further-
結果。
more, have we shown enough respect for their religious
讓多元文化在台綻放 beliefs, and have we tried to understand them?” Tsai tells
us that performance art remains under the radar of the
因為研究音樂，就必須連非音樂的部分都了解 New Southbound Policy, even though it is of vital impor-
透徹，「台灣還沒準備好要接納這群來自南國的 tance to the identity-shaping process of Southeast-Asian
人。他們的生活空間我們準備好了嗎？他們的娛 immigrants in Taiwan, to their children’s reception of
樂我們準備好了嗎？甚至，他們的宗教，我們夠 their immigrant parents’ native cultures, and to migrant
workers’ need to express their feelings in daily life.
尊重、有試著去了解嗎？」蔡宗德比喻，表演藝
“To break this vicious circle, there should be policy
術就像是新南向政策裡聚光燈所沒照到的部分，
reform that takes into account the different needs of
但它卻影響深遠，無論是新住民自身的認同、新
different people. In cases such as the vast population of
二代對東南亞籍父母的文化接受，還是移工對生 immigrants and migrant workers, we have to consider
活的抒發需要。 various factors, from the economy to an individual’s
「要打破這樣的不良循環，政策尚有可以改進 everyday life.” Tsai suggests a possible solution: “Only
的空間，還可以照顧到更多不同需求的人。面臨 by addressing these issues in our education and by
新住民和移工這樣的大族群，我們要從經濟思考 working to change attitudes can we dispel prejudices

and achieve social harmony and unity, turning Taiwan
到生活。」蔡宗德提出突破口，「做出相對應的
into a wonderful place that genuinely embraces cul-
l
教育宣傳與印象改變，才能消除偏見，達到社會
tural diversity.”
上的融合、融洽，成為真正容納多元文化的台灣
(Rina Liu/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
寶島。」 l tr. by Brandon Yen)
122
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Chinese Sayings Told in Pictures
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封面故事 Cover Story

2 為愛生根台灣 1 湛藍世界 50 月月好讀

島嶼行旅 Around Taiwan

A ustralian cloud computing expert Tom Fifield’s connec-

wedding, they arranged preliminary activities, includ-

F ate intervened when their gazes met. T hey crossed the

T he fabulous global success of Taiwan’s semiconductor industry has de-

At 10 o’clock on a Sunday morning, with bustling

W hen he was 17, Pascal van der Graaf sported a multi-

The sun blazes down in southern Taiwan, and Xinying is

housewife. In order to benefit from the help of Yang’s

像第二章講的『天下皆知美之爲美，斯惡已；皆 example, Chapter 2 of the Tao Te Ching elucidates the

初遇耶穌會神父谷寒松（Fr. Aloisius (Luis) Gutheinz

O ur first meeting with the Jesuit priest Father Aloisius

sea voyage of five weeks, ultimately arrived at Keelung.

Thank you for accompanying us on

第一次出現時，一定 是在「克 里 這 個 事 件，讓 世 人 們 聚 焦 在 統

米亞戰 爭」。這場戰 役 打 響了主要 治 克 里 米 亞 半 島 的 國 家，也 就 是

戰 場 塞 凡 堡 要 塞 的 名 聲，戰 爭 當 「烏克 蘭」。克 里米亞半島遭到俄

議」。第二次世界大戰後，美、英、 土」。但 是，俄 羅 斯 的 普 欽 政 權，

小亞 細 亞（安 那 托 利亞）半 島，包 十 到 十 一 世 紀，弗 拉 基 米 爾 一 區的名稱，直到二十世紀都尚未成

民」，由於俄羅 斯本土的農奴制度 分了波蘭，其中奧地利取得加利西 年，為了回應烏克蘭境內日益增強

日漸嚴 苛，許 多農 民群起 反彈，加 亞地區，由於統治風格較為自由， 的 民 族 主 義 聲 浪，蘇 聯 藉 著 紀 念

上一些犯罪者和沒落貴族，組成了 該地 就成 為烏克 蘭民族主義的中 簽定佩列亞 斯 拉 夫協議 三百週年

這 個 團 體。這 些 哥 薩 克 人 建 立 了 心。但 是，加利西亞 地區在第一次 的機會，將克里米亞半島割讓給烏

獨 特 的 軍 事 組 織，並 且 採 取 民 主 世界大戰時，曾經遭到俄羅斯軍隊 克蘭。

制度來運作。 占領，烏克蘭的民族主義勢力也受 一九八六年，烏克蘭發生車諾比

不久，哥薩克民族又對波蘭的統 到徹底的鎮壓。 核災事件，這個事件雖然使得改革

治感到不滿，相對 地，由於俄羅 斯 一九 一 七 年，隨 著 俄 羅 斯 二 月 的速度加快，但國內東部以俄羅斯

承 認 哥 薩 克 擁 有 自 治 權，他 們 轉 革 命 爆 發，烏 克 蘭 民 族 組 成 政 治 人 居 多，西 部大多是 烏克 蘭人，這

向 臣 服 於 沙 皇。在 一六 五 四 年 的 組 織，宣 布 獨 立。但 是 十 月 革 命 些地緣政 治相關問題導致 烏克 蘭

佩 列 亞 斯 拉 夫 協 議 中，哥 薩 克 與 後，俄 羅 斯 革 命 政 府 派 遣 軍 隊 前 共 產 黨內部，基 輔 派（烏克 蘭）和

俄羅斯達成這項共識。 往鎮壓。在德軍入侵俄羅斯之後， 莫 斯 科派（俄羅 斯）的對立愈發 激

到 了十 七 世 紀，烏 克 蘭 面 臨 一 俄領 波蘭成 為革命軍與反革命軍 烈。

個 極 大 的 轉 機。對 於 烏 克 蘭 反 抗 內戰的主要戰 場，相對 地，奧領 加 到了一九九一年，烏克 蘭終於 獨

戰，最 後 雙 方 約 定 聶 伯 河 以 西 屬 局面。 立更緊密的關係。

於 波 蘭 擁 有，東 部 地 區 則 成 為 俄 一九 二 ○ 年 代，烏 克 蘭 境 內 興 眾 所 矚 目 的 克 里 米 亞 半 島，在

羅 斯領 土。其後，烏克 蘭依附 於 俄 起 一 股 反 帝 政 勢 力，同 時 強 力 推 一九九七年，俄羅斯也承認該地屬

羅斯，繼續施行自治體制。 動 恢 復 使 用 烏 克 蘭 語，以 及 回 歸 於烏克 蘭。另外，烏克 蘭憲 法規定

十八世紀初，俄羅斯發動大北方 烏 克 蘭 文 化 的 運 動。然 而，到 了 克 里米亞半島是 烏克 蘭唯一的自

戰 爭，烏克 蘭企圖趁 機 獨立，和瑞 一九 三 ○ 年 代，烏 克 蘭 又 再 度 強 治共和國，這一次，普 欽 總 統 採 取

典 結 盟 與 俄 羅 斯 作 戰，最 後 戰 敗 制 施 行 俄 羅 斯 化。而 且 在 這 段 期 強 迫 的 政 策，形 式 上 舉 行 公 民 投

導致俄羅斯加強對烏克蘭的拘束， 間 內，蘇 聯 政 府 開 始 強 制 徵 收 烏 票，但 是 做 法 和 過 去 專 政 主 義 時

哥 薩克民族也因此失去原有的自 克 蘭 的 穀 物，烏 克 蘭 農 民 群 起 抗 代毫無改變，都是以大國的勢力來

十八世紀末期，波蘭再度遭到瓜 動 物 殺 害，造 成一場「人 為」大 飢 另 外，烏 克 蘭 西 部 國 境 與 聶 斯

分，原 屬 波 蘭 領 有 的 烏 克 蘭 成 為 荒，據 說 有 數 百 萬 至 一 千 萬 農 民 特 共 和 國 相 接。這 個 聶 斯 特 河 沿

俄羅 斯的領地，從 此開始，烏克 蘭 因 此 餓 死。時 至 今 日，烏 克 蘭 稱 岸的細長國家，在國際上認定這個

在 俄 羅 斯 帝 國 統 治下的烏克 殺」。 部 分，此 次 趁 著 烏 克 蘭 問 題 的 機

黎明前的北號誌樓 一陣呼叫。 不過，對6 01次這種長途的貨物

199 6年7月的某一個半夜，牆上 「高雄港，601次下行接近！」 列 車 來 講，有 時 候 中 途 各 站 裝 載

的時鐘 指著4點10分，天花板 幾 盞 「收到，601次，你等一下進入 A 貨物，或 是 列車 編 組 拆 解、加 掛，

日 光 燈 照 亮 北 號 誌 樓 二 樓，值 班 線2股準備停車。」 延 誤一些時 分，算是家常便 飯。六

雄港站列車進出及調車轉線的動 車，終點 站是高 雄港站，表定時間 常啦，不值得大 驚小怪。偶爾也有

態，室內感 覺相當悶 熱，走出戶外 4點08分抵達。列車長用無線電呼 像昨天的 6 01次，因為沿途 貨物較

的緣廊，才感覺一絲微微的涼風。 叫「高雄港站，接 近！」的地方，是 少，停靠時間縮短，竟然提前一 個

這時，掛在靠鐵路側東面牆上的 剛從鼓山站開出來，大約在北斗街 鐘頭抵達呢！

「列車接 近警報器」嗡嗡作 響，幾 平交 道 附 近，這 樣 看來，等 一下進 高 雄 港 站 和 台 灣 其他 兩 百 多 個

乎是同一時間，行車無線電也傳來 站的時候，大概是晚六分鐘。 火 車 站 不 一 樣，是 專 門 的 貨 運 車

站 最 繁 忙 的 時 間，不 是 正 常 人 類 車，沿 途 停 靠 鼓 山、左 營、楠 梓、

清 醒 的時段，而是半 夜時 分，尤 其 岡 山、台 南、隆 田 …… 等 站。列 車

化開來的班次，陸 續抵 達；而北上 貨車，例如鼓山站有台灣水泥公司

列車也正好編組完成，準備出發。 的水泥斗車，左營、楠梓站 有中油

水 銀 燈 從 高 聳 的 鐵 架 燈 塔，照 公司的油 罐車，岡山站 有敞車、蓬

第一次出現時，一定是在「克里這個事件，讓世人們聚焦在統

米亞戰爭」。這場戰役打響了主要治克里米亞半島的國家，也就是

戰場塞凡堡要塞的名聲，戰爭當「烏克蘭」。克里米亞半島遭到俄

議」。第二次世界大戰後，美、英、土」。但是，俄羅斯的普欽政權，

小亞細亞（安那托利亞）半島，包十到十一世紀，弗拉基米爾一區的名稱，直到二十世紀都尚未成

民」，由於俄羅斯本土的農奴制度分了波蘭，其中奧地利取得加利西年，為了回應烏克蘭境內日益增強

日漸嚴苛，許多農民群起反彈，加亞地區，由於統治風格較為自由，的民族主義聲浪，蘇聯藉著紀念

上一些犯罪者和沒落貴族，組成了該地就成為烏克蘭民族主義的中簽定佩列亞斯拉夫協議三百週年

這個團體。這些哥薩克人建立了心。但是，加利西亞地區在第一次的機會，將克里米亞半島割讓給烏

獨特的軍事組織，並且採取民主世界大戰時，曾經遭到俄羅斯軍隊克蘭。

制度來運作。占領，烏克蘭的民族主義勢力也受一九八六年，烏克蘭發生車諾比

不久，哥薩克民族又對波蘭的統到徹底的鎮壓。核災事件，這個事件雖然使得改革

治感到不滿，相對地，由於俄羅斯一九一七年，隨著俄羅斯二月的速度加快，但國內東部以俄羅斯

承認哥薩克擁有自治權，他們轉革命爆發，烏克蘭民族組成政治人居多，西部大多是烏克蘭人，這

向臣服於沙皇。在一六五四年的組織，宣布獨立。但是十月革命些地緣政治相關問題導致烏克蘭

佩列亞斯拉夫協議中，哥薩克與後，俄羅斯革命政府派遣軍隊前共產黨內部，基輔派（烏克蘭）和

俄羅斯達成這項共識。往鎮壓。在德軍入侵俄羅斯之後，莫斯科派（俄羅斯）的對立愈發激

到了十七世紀，烏克蘭面臨一俄領波蘭成為革命軍與反革命軍烈。

個極大的轉機。對於烏克蘭反抗內戰的主要戰場，相對地，奧領加到了一九九一年，烏克蘭終於獨

戰，最後雙方約定聶伯河以西屬局面。立更緊密的關係。

於波蘭擁有，東部地區則成為俄一九二 ○ 年代，烏克蘭境內興眾所矚目的克里米亞半島，在

羅斯領土。其後，烏克蘭依附於俄起一股反帝政勢力，同時強力推一九九七年，俄羅斯也承認該地屬

羅斯，繼續施行自治體制。動恢復使用烏克蘭語，以及回歸於烏克蘭。另外，烏克蘭憲法規定

十八世紀初，俄羅斯發動大北方烏克蘭文化的運動。然而，到了克里米亞半島是烏克蘭唯一的自

戰爭，烏克蘭企圖趁機獨立，和瑞一九三 ○ 年代，烏克蘭又再度強治共和國，這一次，普欽總統採取

典結盟與俄羅斯作戰，最後戰敗制施行俄羅斯化。而且在這段期強迫的政策，形式上舉行公民投

導致俄羅斯加強對烏克蘭的拘束，間內，蘇聯政府開始強制徵收烏票，但是做法和過去專政主義時

哥薩克民族也因此失去原有的自克蘭的穀物，烏克蘭農民群起抗代毫無改變，都是以大國的勢力來

十八世紀末期，波蘭再度遭到瓜動物殺害，造成一場「人為」大飢另外，烏克蘭西部國境與聶斯

分，原屬波蘭領有的烏克蘭成為荒，據說有數百萬至一千萬農民特共和國相接。這個聶斯特河沿

俄羅斯的領地，從此開始，烏克蘭因此餓死。時至今日，烏克蘭稱岸的細長國家，在國際上認定這個

在俄羅斯帝國統治下的烏克殺」。部分，此次趁著烏克蘭問題的機

黎明前的北號誌樓一陣呼叫。不過，對6 01次這種長途的貨物

199 6年7月的某一個半夜，牆上「高雄港，601次下行接近！」列車來講，有時候中途各站裝載

的時鐘指著4點10分，天花板幾盞「收到，601次，你等一下進入 A 貨物，或是列車編組拆解、加掛，

日光燈照亮北號誌樓二樓，值班線2股準備停車。」延誤一些時分，算是家常便飯。六

雄港站列車進出及調車轉線的動車，終點站是高雄港站，表定時間常啦，不值得大驚小怪。偶爾也有

態，室內感覺相當悶熱，走出戶外 4點08分抵達。列車長用無線電呼像昨天的 6 01次，因為沿途貨物較

的緣廊，才感覺一絲微微的涼風。叫「高雄港站，接近！」的地方，是少，停靠時間縮短，竟然提前一個

這時，掛在靠鐵路側東面牆上的剛從鼓山站開出來，大約在北斗街鐘頭抵達呢！

「列車接近警報器」嗡嗡作響，幾平交道附近，這樣看來，等一下進高雄港站和台灣其他兩百多個

乎是同一時間，行車無線電也傳來站的時候，大概是晚六分鐘。火車站不一樣，是專門的貨運車

站最繁忙的時間，不是正常人類車，沿途停靠鼓山、左營、楠梓、

清醒的時段，而是半夜時分，尤其岡山、台南、隆田 …… 等站。列車

化開來的班次，陸續抵達；而北上貨車，例如鼓山站有台灣水泥公司

列車也正好編組完成，準備出發。的水泥斗車，左營、楠梓站有中油

水銀燈從高聳的鐵架燈塔，照公司的油罐車，岡山站有敞車、蓬

射在遼闊的站場，從五福四路平車、石斗車和空軍的油罐車，台南

交道、高雄港檢車分段，到南邊的站有裝運公賣局酒瓶的蓬車，隆

扇形機關庫，帶著慘白的色調。田站有被叫做「黃小玉」的蓬斗車書名：解鎖！北號誌樓

後，就算是進入神聖的「境內」。 7 2 號碼頭散裝穀倉，再一一裝入

這樣看來，北號誌樓後面的壽山蓬斗車，經臨港線轉縱貫線，運往

上，也有一座從高雄神社大鳥居改永康、新市、善化、隆田等站的沙

造而來的忠烈祠牌樓，可以把它看拉油工廠、醬油工廠、飼料工廠等色的「機械閘柄」一字排開，機械

作是區分仙境內外的界限呢！的專用側線。閘柄前方木地板上，嵌入一顆顆圓

當高雄港站內還在進行調車作因為整串 612次貨物列車，是由形的「電鍵」，經年累月的踩踏，

業，或是路線被其他列車佔用，這載運各種不同貨物，不同目的地的已被磨得閃閃發亮，露出黃銅的

時候，進站號誌機會顯示紅燈，或貨車組成，所以出發前，必須在高色澤。在二十七支機械閘柄的後

火車司機看到，就知道是「險阻」站的先後順序，完成列車編組。將垂直交錯的鎖簧桿和縱鎖簧桿，

的意思，即將進站的列車，必須在一節一節的貨車，在不同股道間拉就像許多組複雜的竹竿舞竹竿，

進站號誌機外方停車，等候進站來推去，前後移動，最後連掛成一看起來非常壯觀。　　

許可。列「雜牌軍」，是攀附在貨車跳上火車不像汽車，火車沒有方向

「構內」是從日本時代沿用至今跳下的調車工，和駕駛調車機車的盤，而是藉著扳轉地面的轉轍器，

的鐵道用語，指的是通過進站號司機，最主要的工作。來決定道岔開通的方向。當尖軌

誌機之後（內方）的站場範圍，也再回到北號誌樓二樓，看號誌靠密在主要鐵軌內側，火車的車

就是「站內」的意思。構內的調車員如何操作這套繁複的路線控制輪就會順著尖軌改變行進方向，

作業，從某一股軌道，轉進另一股和號誌系統。進入另一條股道；或是尖軌不靠

軌道，是北號誌樓值班人員要監北號誌樓的二樓，最主要的地密，與主要鐵軌產生一個間隔，車

控的重要工作。方是北半邊的號誌作業區，二十七輪就會沿著主要鐵軌的方向，繼

612次，是表定 4 點12 分從高雄支寫有不同編號，漆著藍色和白續前行。一般來說，道岔設定在

位」；若是設定讓火車開往左邊，盒」會暫時解鎖，號誌員順勢踩壓號誌機，穿過噹！噹！噹！閃著紅

或往右邊，則是開通「反位」。用力，就可以扳動機械閘柄。燈的五福四路平交道。接著一路

以高雄港站這麼龐大複雜的站號誌員一一扳動四支機械閘柄，往左邊拐，先通過橫渡線，再往左

場來說，要從站內某一股道出發，待開通進路後，再扳轉1號電氣閘邊拐橫渡線，最後來到轉轍器，進

開出站外，一路必須經過好幾處柄，這時，壽山下的1號進站號誌入A線群。

道岔，這些道岔的轉轍器彼此有連機黃燈一閃一閃，司機看到後，右高聲電話就安裝在北號誌樓二

動關係，可開通一致的路徑，沿途臂伸直向前，手指進站號誌機，大樓緣廊窗邊，可以將號誌員的指

各處轉轍器同時鎖錠，不能任意聲喊出「緩速進站！」，坐在右邊令，傳送到遠方道岔現場的喇叭，

扳轉，我們稱為「聯鎖」。以縱貫的助理司機員也舉手指向前方，複讓現場工作人員清楚聽到，這是

線上行列車為例，從高雄港站B線誦「緩速進站！」，這是承襲自日還沒有行車調度無線電的時代，