MAR.

2024 中英文國外版

v
y Acti ities in
a

St

Ta
Long

iwan

乘風破浪遊台灣
「菲」比尋常的緣分
毛孩時代，親暱關係
黃鷗波彩繪寶島風采

Vol. 49 No. 3 March 2024

CHINESE–ENGLISH BILINGUAL MONTHLY ISSN 1991-525X
 洲南鹽田風光

The Zhounan Salt Field

圖／文•林格立 版面設計•馬英凱

雪
白的天然日曬鹽，一籮筐一籮
筐地整齊排放著，這裡是嘉義 B askets of snow-white sun-dried salt are stacked in
neat rows at the Zhounan Salt Field in Chiayi’s Bu-
dai Township. Thanks to the efforts of government agen-
布袋的洲南鹽場。在台鹽結束曬鹽業
務後，廢棄的鹽田，在公部門和地方 cies and local cultural activists, this formerly abandoned
文化工作者的努力下，讓鹽田重新復 salt field is once again being used for solar salt making,
曬，並且透過環境教育和生態旅遊， and through environmental education and ecotourism,
把古老的曬鹽文化保留了下來。 traditional salt-making culture is being kept alive.
(photo and text by Jimmy Lin/tr. by Phil Newell)
 編人 的
編者 絮話語
來台灣玩的 N 個理由
文．陳亮君

中華民國113年3月1日出版（月刊）／
中華民國65年1月1日創刊
台灣擁有享譽國際之山海美景、醫療體系 除了石虎保育，近年來台灣許多新創業
出版者 光華畫報雜誌社 與便利交通，更是全球學習華語之重鎮，吸 者，針對家裡的毛小孩，從飲食、醫療、遊
發 行 人／ 吳釗燮
Publisher: Jaushieh Joseph WU
社 長 ／ 徐詠梅 引全球旅人來台進行為期數周，甚至一個月 樂、照顧等面向，提供了許多創新的解方，如
Director: Catherine Y.M. HSU

以上的Long Stay行程，本期《光華》封面故 Furbo開發的360度視角寵物攝影機，除了能隨

總 編 輯／ 陳亮君
Editor-in-Chief: CHEN Liang-chun
主 編／ 曾蘭淑
Editor: Esther TSENG
文 稿 副 主 編 ／ 鄧慧純 郭美瑜
事從乘風破浪、山林探索、醫療養生、語言 時與寵物們互動，還能遠端餵食；還有Lulupet
Deputy Editors: Cathy TENG, Mei KUO
文 字 編 輯／ 陳群芳 蘇俐穎 李雨莘 學習等四個面向，推薦旅人來台體驗道地、 用AI技術開發智慧貓砂盆，藉由糞便找到病
Writers: CHEN Chun-fang, Lynn SU, Cindy LI
美 術 編 輯／ 蕭郢岑 馬英凱 劉俊良
Art Editors: HSIAO Ying-tsen, MA Ying-kai, 便捷又充滿樂趣的台式生活。 徵，讓飼主能及早發現毛小孩的生理狀況。其
Lance LIU
攝影組召集人／ 莊坤儒
Photographic Coordinator: Kent CHUANG
而《光華》海外採訪繼「越南」後，第 他還有寵物保母到府服務、永續循環貓咪中
攝 影 組 長／ 林格立
Photographic Director: Jimmy LIN 二站來到「菲律賓」，台灣是菲律賓的第八 途之家……等，許多充滿創意及寵物關懷的服
攝 影 編 輯／ 林旻萱
Photojournalist: LIN Min-hsuan
英 文 編 輯／ 陳瑩潔 唐樂榕 倪凱駿 大貿易夥伴，雙方地理位置接近，從本期開 務，盡在本期《光華》報導當中。
English Editors: Audrey CHEN, Robert TAYLOR,
Phil NEWELL
日 文 編 輯／ 山口雪菜 施家騏 始，將陸續刊出兩國「歷史淵源」、「南島 另接續台灣早期藝術家系列，此次報導影
Japanese Editors: Yukina YAMAGUCHI,
Shila SHIH
印 尼 文 編 輯／ 陳德銘
文化」、「學術合作」與「公益活動」等民 響台灣藝壇深遠的黃鷗波（1917—2003），
Indonesian Editor: Temmy WIRYAWAN
越 南 文 編 輯／ 武秋香 間交流現況，呈現台菲兩國情誼。 他曾擔任知名詩社「瀛社」的社長，其幽默
Vietnamese Editor: VU Thu Huong
泰 文 編 輯／ 王玉雯
Thai Editor: WANG Yu-wen 此外，根據林業署生物多樣性研究所2023 逗趣的台語話劇《秦少爺選妻》，巧妙結合
資深行政編輯／ 段蜀華
Senior Administrative Editor: DUAN Shu-hwa
社 群 編 輯／ 蕭淑憶
年的報告，其中59筆救傷紀錄中，路殺案例 台語文學與韻文，而其繪畫作品則融合膠
Social Media Editor: Dawa HSIAO
就佔了31筆。台灣石虎因淺山生活棲地與人 彩、水墨與西畫，創作出許多具民俗采風的
總 監 ／ 鍾宜蓉
Marketing Director: Carianne CHUNG
業 務 協 理／ 陳俊偉 類生活區域重疊，造成其生存充滿危機，而 作品，不僅身兼畫家、詩人、教師與編劇，
Deputy Manager: CHEN Jyun-wei
資 訊 部 主 任 ／ 卓宏基
Director of Information Systems: CHO Hung-chi 其中最大的威脅即來自於路殺。本期《光 也是一位社會觀察家，讓我們藉由專訪前故
綜 合 服 務 組／ 李淑慧
General Affairs: S.H. LEE
華》將深度探討台灣石虎保育所面臨的課 宮博物院副院長林柏亭、屏東大學視覺藝術

題，如何在政府、企業與民眾的努力下共生 系教授黃冬富、長流美術館館長黃承志，回

共存，為可能是台灣僅存的原生貓科動物盡 溯早年台灣美術的發展，以及黃鷗波的生平

上一份心力。 事蹟，一探台灣藝術的魅力。 l
Countless Reasons
to Come to Taiwan
T aiwan is well known internationally
for its mountain and ocean scenery, its
healthcare system, and its convenient trans-
portation. It is also a center for the study of
Mandarin Chinese. It attracts travelers from
around the globe to come for stays of several
weeks or more. Our Cover Story this month
looks at four reasons why travelers should
come for long stays in Taiwan: surfing, moun-
tain hiking, healthcare, and language study.
Following our recent reports on Vietnam,
starting this month we switch our focus to
the Philippines. Taiwan is the Philippines’
eighth largest trading partner, and the two
countries are geographically close. We will
showcase the friendship between our two
nations by reporting on aspects of bilateral
interactions including historical connections,
Austronesian culture, academic cooperation,
and charitable activities.
A 2023 report by the Taiwan Biodiversity
Research Institute shows that of 59 reported
cases of dead or injured leopard cats, road
deaths accounted for 31. Because the foothills
habitat of leopard cats in Taiwan overlaps
with areas of human activity, these animals
face numerous threats, of which the greatest
is road traffic. This month we look at the is-
sues facing leopard cat conservation and how
the government, private sector, and citizens
are together doing what they can to help Tai-
wan’s last remaining native feline survive.
In recent years many startup businesses
EDITOR’S NOTE
in Taiwan have provided innovative solutions GPN: 2006500016 ISSN1991-525X
原刊名光華 Sinorama Magazine
to the problems of household pets in areas in- 中華民國95年1月改為台灣光華雜誌
Taiwan Panorama
cluding diet, veterinary care, play, and day-to- SUBSCRIPTION RATES:
day care. For example, Furbo has developed a Republic of China: NT$150 per copy,
NT$1500/year, NT$2600/2 years
360-degree pet camera that enables pet own-
Asia & Pacific Regions: US$40/year,
US$72/2 years by airmail
ers to interact with their pets via a cellphone
Elsewhere: US$45/year,
US$80/2 years by airmail
app, while Lulupet has created an AI-enabled 社址／中華民國台灣台北市100209中正區愛國西路
cat litter box that can detect markers of dis-
2號3樓
Address: 3F, No. 2, Aiguo W. Rd., Zhongzheng
ease in cat waste, which could provide early
District, Taipei City 100209, Taiwan, ROC
郵政信箱／100908台北復興橋郵政第8-398號信箱
warning of potential health problems. Other
PO Box 8-398, Taipei Fuxing Bridge,
Taipei City 100908, Taiwan, ROC
services include at-home pet sitters, a cat shel-
讀者服務專線／+886-2-3343-2704
編輯部／+886-2-3343-2750
傳真機／Fax: +886-2-2397-0655
ter that supports itself sustainably, and more. 網址／http://www.taiwan-panorama.com/
Please enjoy this month’s report on creative
讀者服務專線／+886-2-2397-0633
E-mail: service@taiwan-panorama.com
pet-care measures. 著作權所有，本雜誌圖文非經同意不得轉載。
如欲轉載，請與本社資深行政聯絡。
Continuing our series on early artists in 如發現書頁有裝訂錯誤或污損事情，
請寄至本社調換。
Taiwan, this time we report on Huang Ou-po All rights reserved. Photos and articles may not
be reprinted without our permission.
(1917–2003), who had a profound impact on If you wish to reprint any of our articles or
photographs, please contact our senior
Taiwan’s arts world. Huang’s works evince a administrative editor.
Damaged or misbound copies returned to us will
spirit of tolerance by blending together nihonga be gladly replaced.
(Japanese gouache painting), Chinese ink-
wash painting, and Western art. He created
many works featuring folk customs, and was
not only a painter, poet, teacher, and play-
wright, but a social commentator too. Through
interviews with Lin Po-ting, former deputy
director of the National Palace Museum, Pro- 本刊物印刷油墨使用環保認證大豆油墨
fessor Huang Tung-fu of National Pingtung
University’s Department of Visual Arts, and
Huang’s son Chen-chih, curator of the Chan
Liu Art Museum, we trace Huang’s life story
and the development of fine arts in Taiwan, to
explore the charm of Taiwanese art. l
(Chen Liang-chun/tr. by Phil Newell)
目次
CONTENTS 中華民國113年3月 第49卷 第3期 Vol. 49 No. 3 March 2024

6 封面故事 Cover Story

旅居台灣
Long Stay Activities in Taiwan

6 好風好浪好迷人
乘風破浪遊台灣
Wind, Waves, and Wonder
—Surfing in Taiwan
文•曾蘭淑 圖•林旻萱

18 驚艷，高山之島

26
他們非到台灣不可的理由
Island of Astonishing Mountains
—Why International Travelers Come
to Taiwan
文•蘇俐穎 圖•林格立

26 觀光旅遊新趨勢
醫療養生在台灣
A New Trend in Medical Tourism
—Healthcare and Health Maintenance
in Taiwan
文•郭美瑜 圖•莊坤儒

36
36 一場沒有終點的旅行
台灣語言學習Long Stay
Learning Huayu in Taiwan
—A Journey of Boundless Possibilities
文•李雨莘 圖•林旻萱

編者的話 來自地方的明信片
Editor’s Note Postcards from Home

2 來台灣玩的N個理由 1 洲南鹽田風光 48 月月好讀

Countless Reasons to Come The Zhounan Salt Field Variety Pages
to Taiwan 圖／文•林格立 文•李清志
文•陳亮君
 封面說明：
旅居台灣學習華語，對外國人來說，獲得的不只有習得外
語，還有一把認識台灣真實樣貌的鑰匙。（林格立攝，劉俊
良設計）
Cover: Studying Mandarin in Taiwan is not only an 影像對話 Photo Essay
excellent way to learn the language, but also a key to truly
understanding Taiwan. (photo by Jimmy Lin, design by Lance Liu) 54 《光華》攝影徵件
民俗與生活──年味台灣
Readers’ Photos
Taiwanese Folk Culture: The Lunar
New Year

全球視野 Global Outlook

64 「菲」比尋常的緣分
台菲•再連結的旅程

64
Taiwan and the Philippines:
Close Encounters Past and Present
文•鄧慧純 圖•林格立

島嶼行旅 Around Taiwan

78 保育之路你我同行
關心石虎也是利益人類
Conservation, a Task for Us All
—Protecting Taiwan’s Leopard Cats
文•李雨莘 圖•莊坤儒

88 漢藥的日常隱味
百年中藥行的回眸與轉身

78
The Hidden Flavors of Medicinal Herbs:
Traditional Chinese Pharmacies Turn
Over a New Leaf
文•蘇俐穎 圖•林旻萱
農業部生物多樣性研究所提供
courtesy of Taiwan Biodiversity Research Institute
藝文脈絡 Cultural Trends

100 詩畫並茂•自由奔放
黃鷗波彩繪寶島風采
Intellectual Art
—Huang Ou-po’s Visions of Taiwan
文•陳群芳 圖•長流美術館提供

產業新創 Entrepreneurship

100
110 人好，喵好，汪汪好
毛孩時代，親暱關係
Contemporary Pet Care:
The Fur Baby Economy
（局部圖 detail） 長流美術館提供 courtesy of Chan Liu Art Museum
文•鄧慧純 圖•莊坤儒
 封 面

好 風 好 浪 好 迷 人
故 事
COVER
STORY

乘
風
破
浪
遊
台
灣

Wind, Waves, and Wonder

—Surfing in Taiwan

文•曾蘭淑 圖•林旻萱 版面設計•馬英凱

F or people from Europe, North America, Japan, and Korea, where winters
are cold, it’s a real luxury to be able to surf in warmer climes. People can
come to Taiwan and surf year-round, with warm seas, diverse and delicious
food, and the friendliness of the Taiwanese people all being normal parts of
the itinerary. In particular, the waves whipped up by northeasterly monsoon
winds in winter make Taiwan a very inviting place for savvy surfers to visit.

6
 －
衝
浪
－
Nick在台東都蘭玩風帆衝浪。
Nick Postec windsurfs in Dulan,
Taitung County.

對冬天處於寒冷冰雪氣候的歐美、日韓民眾來說，冬天衝浪，是人生中的
奢侈。來台灣衝浪，四季皆宜，尤其冬天有東北季風「興風作浪」，更適合
衝浪高手來此追浪。享受溫暖的海洋、豐富的美食、熱情的人情味，皆是旅
行的日常。

7
來台灣long stay、每天衝浪的
Nick認為，不管浪大浪小，不只
為精進技術，而是在玩浪中讓自
己更好。
Nick, who has been surfing every
day during his long stay in Taiwan,
says that no matter if the waves
are big or small, what counts is not
simply to refine one’s technique
but also to make oneself better by
enjoying the ocean.
走訪台灣東部座落在海岸山脈山麓上的都蘭，
遠眺都蘭山綠意盎然，海闊天高的太平洋有風又
有浪。連續第二年來台灣long stay三個月的法國
籍Nicolas Postec（以下稱「Nick」），每天在都
蘭灣衝浪或玩風浪板，樂此不疲。
衝浪，泡湯，吃火鍋
「世界上很難發現一個地方，同時有很好的風
又有很好的浪。」Nick說，他經常在法國富有衝浪
文化的比亞里茨、奧瑟格爾衝浪，但是冬天太冷
了。然而台灣十月到隔年二月總是有很好的浪，每
天都可以衝浪，這真的是一件非常棒的事。
2022年Nick在網路蒐尋衝浪景點，被台東都蘭
一家衝浪店的影片所吸引，做好功課後，決定來
台灣衝浪。他說：「雖然在世界地圖上很難發現
台灣，但從我到台灣的第一天，就感受到台灣人
的熱情，在捷運迷路，人們直接帶我到問路點。
我不會說中文，卻完全不會迷路。」
從法國空運二個風浪板、一個衝浪板來台，
Nick對台東的風與浪讚譽有加：「都蘭的浪非常
有一致性，很有力量卻不危險，所以很容易讓自
己精進。」
每一天，他起床第一件事，先去7-11喝一杯咖
啡，接著就去觀察今日的浪。「浪大就玩衝浪；
風大就玩風浪板。」他笑著說：「因為風帆衝浪
是衝浪的『表兄弟』嘛！」
8
去過許多國家衝浪，「台灣的都蘭與西班牙的
Canary Islands是他心目中的最佳浪點。」Nick說，
台灣幾乎每天都可以衝浪，不像其他國家天氣沒有
那麼好，只能「衝三休二」。因為從事十分耗費體
力的極限運動，「吃火鍋、到知本、紅葉泡湯，便
是回復體力最佳妙方，尤其是藥膳火鍋，非常健康
……」Nick邊說還邊露出滿足的表情大笑起來。
「若不是因為要工作，我都想要一直住在台
灣。」職業是在瑞士與法國蓋游泳池的Nick，每
年安排超過半年時間到世界各地衝浪，他認為，
面對頑強多變的風浪，不論順浪或是逆浪都要非
常專注，不想未來，不看過去，就在當下。「說
來奇怪，追到一個好浪，站在浪上可能只有15
秒，但從那15秒得到的快樂卻可以持續2∼3個小
時。縱使回到岸上，整個人的心彷彿還在海上滑
翔著。」
Nick說，衝浪是一種讓身心澄澈的運動，讓人
感到滿足，進而享受人生。最重要的是，他在台
灣遇見許多愛衝浪的朋友，2023年的衝浪季又來
台東long stay三個月的他說：「未來每一年的衝
浪季都要來台灣。」
旅途中，留下美好回憶的是人
Nick所說的好朋友，就是在台東都蘭開設「哇
軋力共」衝浪立槳學校與民宿的Mark Jackson與
陳詠憶夫婦。
 We visit Dulan in Taitung’s Donghe Township, in the
foothills of the Coastal Mountain Range on Taiwan’s east-
ern seaboard. To the landward side we can see beautiful
green Mt. Dulan towering in the distance, while to seaward
the vast Pacific Ocean offers wind and waves. Frenchman
Nick Postec, who is in Taiwan for a three-month stay for
the second year running, is enjoying himself immensely as
he surfs or windsurfs every day in Dulan Bay.
Surfing, hot springs, hotpot
“It’s hard anywhere in the world to find a place that
has both strong winds and big waves,” says Nick. He
usually surfs in Biarritz or Hossegor, both of which have
well-developed surfing cultures, but in winter they are too
cold. For him, Taiwan has great “consistency” in its waves
from October to February, so he can expect to enjoy surf-
ing every day, which is “very nice.”
Nick first came across Taiwan in 2022 while searching
online for surfing venues. He found an appealing video
posted by a surf shop in Dulan, and after doing his home-
work, he decided to come to Taiwan to surf.
Nick, who shipped two windsurfing boards and a
surfboard from France to Taiwan by air, has high praise
for the wind and waves in Taitung: “The waves in Dulan
are very consistent, and they are very powerful without
being dangerous, so it’s a good place for me to improve
my technique.”
哇軋力共衝浪店每年舉辦的
「浪式風浪板節」，吸引全球
各地的衝浪客來台齊聚一堂。
（台東浪式風浪板節提供）
WaGaLiGong Dulan Surf and
SUP House & Bar holds the
Taitung Wave Classic every
year, drawing surfers from
around the world to gather in
Taiwan. (courtesy of Taitung
Wave Classic)
After getting out of bed each morning Nick starts
his day by going to the 7-Eleven for a cup of coffee, after
which he goes to check out the day’s waves. “If there are
big waves, I surf. If the wind is strong, I windsurf.” He
says with a smile: “Windsurfing is the cousin of surfing.”
He explains that surfing is an extreme sport that is
physically exhausting. “The best recipe for recovering
my strength is a soak in a hot spring plus hotpot, espe-
cially hotpot flavored with Chinese medicinal herbs,
which is very healthy….” As Nick speaks, his expression
reveals a deep sense of contentment, and he smiles hap-
pily. “If I didn’t have to work, I’d like to live in Taiwan
all the time.”
Nick avers that surfing clears the mind and brings a
sense of satisfaction, which helps you to enjoy your life
in general. The most important thing is that he has met
many friends in Taiwan who share his love of surfing.
Having come to Taitung for a second three-month stay
during the 2023 surfing season, he says, “In the future
I want to come to Taiwan every year in the surfing
season.”
The best memories are people
The friends Nick is talking about are Mark Jackson,
one of the cofounders of WaGaLiGong Dulan Surf &
SUP House and Bar, and Mark’s wife, Chen Yong-yi.
Mark, who came to Taiwan from South Africa 20 years
9
 M a r k經營的衝浪店、民宿，以及Yo u Tu b e頻 年，遇到三位可說是人生導師的『麻吉』。」空
道，均使用「哇軋力共」這個名字。他解釋道， 軍軍人張傑獅教他自由潛水魚獵，每年春節都邀
每一個國家都有常用的口頭禪，例如美國人常說 他一起過年；在法院工作的曾映皓教他玩風帆；
「What’s up, dude?」澳洲人常說「How are you 原住民孔鏘（原名「孔家豪」）教他飛行傘。
going, mate?」在台灣，講政治、聊天，十分鐘談 「我與他們三個像兄弟一樣，也與他們的家人打
話裡，可以聽到十句裡夾雜著「Guá kā lí kóng」 成一片、『lā-ti-sái』（「抐豬屎」為台灣話，指
（我跟你說之意）。這句話有「請聽我說」、 閒聊打屁之意），讓我完全融入在地生活與文化
「我不同意」等多重意義，很有深度。 中，愛上台灣，願意定錨在此。」
20年前從南非到台東教英文的Mark，從長居變 因此「人」很重要，他不定期舉辦烤肉派對，
成定居台灣，現在可以國語、台語、英語三聲道 連絡新朋友、老朋友，就是希望讓所有來到都蘭
相互轉換著說。Mark透露：「我在台灣第一個五 的遊客有歸屬感。

Mark Jackson與陳詠憶希望到都蘭的旅客，可以安全享受衝浪、
SUP等各式水上活動。
Mark Jackson and Chen Yong-yi hope that travelers who come
to Dulan can safely enjoy all kinds of marine activities, including
surfing and stand-up paddleboarding.

在台灣各大專院校的華語文教學中心，除了有
課堂內容，還有不同的活動可以體驗。（台師
大國語教學中心提供）
(above) Da Tung Elementary School, founded in
1899, still preserves its elegant school building
dating back to the Japanese era.

來到都蘭可以感受台東藝術、原住民文化的豐沛。
When you come to Dulan you can also experience the
richness of Taitung’s art and indigenous cultures.

衝浪是國際語言

每天潛水或是玩風浪板的Mark說，有山有水的
都蘭可不只有衝浪。都蘭可以說是台東藝術、原
住民文化的一個集散地。近年來，更多的衝浪客
與背包客選擇到都蘭旅行與長居。不會衝浪的人
也可以選擇立槳、自由潛水、風箏衝浪等活動，
現學現玩。「只是認識海洋與水上安全的教育最
是重要，如此人人才可以更安心地享受海洋，」
Mark 語氣轉為嚴肅地說。
哇軋力共衝浪店從2015年起，每年11月都會舉
辦小型的「台東浪式風浪板節」，吸引全球各地
的衝浪客來台。帶著沙啞嗓音的Mark說，讓他最
感動的是，來自立陶宛、俄國、美國、義大利、

10
 ago to teach English, made the transition from long-
stay visitor to permanent resident, and speaks in a mix-
ture of Mandarin, Taiwanese, and English. He reveals:
“During my first five years in Taiwan, I met three close
friends who you could say have been my life guides.”
Zhang Jieshi, who serves in the Air Force, taught
him diving and spear fishing, and invites Mark to
spend the Lunar New Year holiday with him every
year. Jimmy Zeng, who works in a court of law, taught
him to windsurf. And Kong Jiahao, an indigenous man,
taught him paragliding. “I am like brothers with the
three of them and have become a part of their families,
which has enabled me to fully assimilate into local
culture and caused me to fall in love with Taiwan and
anchor myself in daily life here.”
Because Mark considers personal relationships so
三小時的衝浪課程中，首重安全教育。（哇軋力共提供）
important, he periodically organizes barbeque parties
This three-hour surfing class puts top priority on safety.
(courtesy of WaGaLiGong) and contacts new and old friends in hopes that all visi-
tors who come to Dulan can feel a sense of belonging.
Surfing: An international language
WaGaLiGong opened in 2015, and each November it
holds the small-scale “Taitung Windsurf Wave Classic”
which attracts surfers from around the world. Mark
turns up the volume of his hoarse voice as he says
that what he finds most amazing is that having
visited Taiwan once, people from Lithuania,
Russia, the US, Italy and elsewhere will come
back again after a few years, and everybody
has become good friends.
For example, Taiga Matsumoto from
Japan, who enjoys surfing and wind-
surfing, first came to Taiwan in 2016
and for the following seven years
has come back every year for a one-
month stay.
外國學生共組龍舟隊參加比
賽，是台師大國語教學中心
每年重要活動之一。（國立
台灣師範大學提供）
Fusion Space 1962 has
preserved the structure of the
old factory building where it is
located and brought together
interesting little shops to
become a center for life 臺東憑藉岩岸地形、東北季風，浪型漂亮且浪的能
aesthetics in Taichung’s old 量好。（哇軋力共提供，何振宏攝）
town. Taitung’s rocky shoreline and northeasterly
monsoon winds create clean, powerful waves that
are ideal for surfing. (photo by Ho Cheng Heng,
courtesy of WaGaLiGong)

11
蒙古的遊客來過台灣後，過了幾年又再回來，大 日本即將出戰巴黎奧運的選手松田詩野
家已經變成好朋友。 （Shino Matsuda）就曾盛讚台灣人的熱情，只
就像喜歡玩衝浪、風浪板的日本人Taiga Matsu- 要稍微一露困惑的表情，就有人出面幫忙；紐
moto，2016年來台灣後，連續七年每年都來台灣 西蘭籍的選手薩菲．維特（Saffi Vette）等多位
long stay一個月。 選手，在榕樹下吃東河包子，成為當地日常的
朋友都稱呼Taiga為Tiger，他在台灣時會在臉 風景。
書分享：「早上吃了7-11的小籠包或是東河的包 洪婕雅建議，來台東long stay衝浪，泡過冷冷
子，每天吃都不會膩；很喜歡台灣薑母鴨鍋；今 的水，別忘了再前去知本、金崙泡熱熱的湯，還
天遇到今年最好的浪等等。」Tiger說，都蘭風很 有台東在地的原民特色食物阿拜（即小米粽）、
好，浪很大，是全世界玩浪最好的地方。 青草茶與米苔目都不要錯過。

台東是世界級的衝浪景點 人生就是衝浪

台東金樽港則是群集衝浪高手的浪點。臺東縣 除了台東，宜蘭烏石港、屏東佳樂水、花蓮豐
政府自2010年起舉辦「臺灣國際衝浪公開賽」， 濱皆可騎乘不同的浪。
與亞洲國際衝浪組織（A S C）、世界衝浪聯盟 在衝浪界小有名氣的花蓮熱浪衝浪棧（Tropical
（WSL）合作，爭取列入國際衝浪巡迴賽，讓台 Blends Sports LLC），老闆是來自夏威夷的資深
東成為世界知名的衝浪點。 浪人Jim Hayes，他12歲開始衝浪，參加過夏威
臺東縣政府觀光遊憩科科長洪婕雅指出，台 夷著名的立槳比賽 M2O（The Moloka’i 2 O’ahu
東海岸從初階的浪到高階的浪都有，除了冬天溫 Paddleboard World Championships），歷時七小時
暖，吸引歐美日韓的衝浪客外，職業選手認為台 的划程中，需克服許多驚濤駭浪；也曾駕駛帆船
東的浪形「漂亮」，主要是一道一道蓋上來的浪
都很完整，較少破浪或只是浪花泡沫，可以讓衝
浪者練習許多衝浪動作。

台東金樽海岸綿延三公里的細白沙灘及碧綠的海水，成為衝
浪勝地。（臺東縣政府提供）
The three-kilometer-long fine white sand beach and the azure
sea at Jinzun on the Taitung coast make the area a surfing
hotspot. (courtesy of Taitung County Government)

12
 Taiga, whose friends all call him “Tiger,” shares his
experiences in Taiwan on Facebook. For example, he
talks about how in the mornings he eats xiaolongbao
(soup dumplings) from 7-Eleven or Donghe steamed
buns, never tiring of these despite eating them every
day; about how much he loves Taiwan’s ginger duck
自2011年開始，臺東縣政府舉辦臺灣國際衝浪公開賽，吸
引許多衝浪客共襄盛舉。（臺東縣政府提供）
Since 2011 the Taitung County Government has been staging
the Taiwan Open of Surfing, attracting expert surfers from around
the globe. (courtesy of Taitung County Government)
hotpot; or about how that day’s waves were the best
waves of the year.
Taitung: A world class surfing venue
Jinzun Harbor, 15 kilometers north of Dulan, is a
gathering place for expert surfers. The Taitung County
Government began sponsoring the “Taiwan Open of
Surfing” there in 2010 and has worked with the Asian
Surfing Championship and World Surf League to make
the Taiwan Open an event on the international surfing
tour. As a result, Taitung has become a world-famous
surfing venue.
Jela Hung, chief of the county government’s Tour-
ism and Recreation Section, points out that the Taitung
coast offers waves from beginner to expert levels. Be-
sides the appeal that the county’s warm winter waters
have for surfers from Europe, North America, Japan,
and Korea, professional surfers have judged Taitung
to have “beautiful” wave shapes. The most important
thing is that one wave after another is “clean” (in-
tact and well formed), and that one rarely encounters
choppy conditions or unsurfable “mushburger” waves
that collapse into nothing but foam. With clean waves,
surfers can practice a wide variety of moves and tech-
niques.
Hung suggests that after spending many hours in
the cold ocean water, surfers on long-stay visits to Tai-
tung should not forget to head to Zhiben or Jinlun to
soak in a hot spring. They should also be sure to try
local indigenous cuisine including abai (leaf-wrapped
dumplings), herbal tea, and thick rice noodles.
Surfing is life
In addition to Taitung, there are different waves to
be ridden at Wushi Harbor in Yilan, Jialeshui in Ping-
tung, and Fengbin in Hualien.
The Hualien-based company Tropical Blends Sports
LLC, which is well known in the surfing community,
is operated by veteran surfer Jim Hayes, who comes
from Hawaii. He began surfing when he was 12 years
old and has taken part in the famous Moloka’i 2 O’ahu
Paddleboard World Championships, a Hawaiian event
in which participants must paddle for seven hours
through tempestuous waves; he also once sailed a yacht
from Hawaii to California. In 1978 he undertook three
13
 交通的便捷，使旅客前往台灣各地旅遊相當
方便。（莊坤儒攝）
Nanye Dance Hall was a modern entertainment
venue back in the 1960s. Although it lay
unused for a time, today its facade has been
renovated and it is available for new purposes.

Jim年輕時在夏威夷玩SUP。（Jim Hayes提供）
Jim Hayes stand-up paddleboarding in Hawaii as a young man. (courtesy of Jim Hayes)

從夏威夷到加州。1978年，他三次跟著衝浪界職 感到十分親切，加上治安很好，2018年決定到台
業聯盟WSL，在世界知名的衝浪景點巡迴，由他 灣定居。
負責拍攝影片。
只要能在海裡
從1978年即在夏威夷經營衝浪板店，尤其是立
板划槳更是賣到全世界，但六年前，Jim決定半退 身為資深浪人，J i m認為，除了颱風天前後，
休移居台灣，卻不是為了衝浪。 與夏威夷日落海灘、或是以大浪、管浪著稱的
原來Jim的哥哥25年前在基隆海洋大學教英文、 Pipeline相比，台灣的浪簡直是小巫見大巫。
退休後就定居花蓮。哥哥多次邀他來台，年輕時 既然浪小，為何移居台灣？J i m解釋：「我
的Jim工作忙碌，一有空，只會到中南美洲例如瓜 在全球衝浪的中心（指夏威夷）衝了40多年的
地馬拉等有名的衝浪點去衝浪。 浪，現在不求衝大浪，只要能常常泡在海裡。
幾乎全年無休的Jim，發現夏威夷愈來愈多人擁 而且我70歲了，肩膀不如以前強壯，但立槳沖
入，交通異常壅塞，加上生活物價也變得高不可 浪（SUP）還勝任有餘。」他再強調，台灣很多
攀，「就像一個小洛杉磯，而不是我的家鄉檀香 美麗的海岸就像夏威夷，浪雖不大，卻更適合
山。」他不禁提高聲量地抱怨著。 玩立槳沖浪。
能操一口西班牙語的Jim，原本計劃退休後，與 「台灣具有國際衝浪點必備的三個條件，就是
好友一起搬到厄瓜多的豪宅區，但考慮太太不會 溫暖的海浪、熱情的人們、可口的美食。」擅長
講西班牙語而作罷。有哥哥在台灣，Jim認為，夏 設計衝浪舵的Jim，更看好台灣是一個衝浪的新興
威夷有大量的亞洲人，因而台灣的亞洲氛圍讓他 市場。「我希望累積了50年衝浪的經驗與專業，

14

journeys with the world’s leading surfing organization,
the World Surf League, to make films about tour events
in world-famous surfing locations.
He began run ning a surf board shop in Hawaii
in 1978 and sold stand-up paddleboards around the
world. However, six years ago Jim decided to go into
semiretirement and relocate to Taiwan. But the reason
had nothing to do with surfing.
In fact, Jim’s older brother began teaching English
at National Taiwan Ocean University in Keelung 25
years ago, and after retiring he settled in Hualien. This
brother invited Jim to come to Taiwan many times.
Jim, who took virtually no time off all year, dis-
covered that Hawaii was becoming more and more
花蓮熱浪衝浪棧希望成為幫助在地衝浪社群的集散地。
Tropical Blends Sports hopes to serve as a hub to support
local surfing communities.
Jim用貨櫃從夏威夷運到台灣許多限
量版的衝浪板，他說，衝浪板就像
衝浪者的女朋友一樣，甚至比女朋
友更親近。
Jim Hayes has shipped numerous
limited-edition surfboards to Taiwan
from Hawaii by container. He says
that for a surfer their board is like their
girlfriend, or sometimes even closer.
crowded and the cost of living was becoming prohib-
itively high. “It was turning into a mini-Los Angeles,
and was no longer the Honolulu of my youth,” he com-
plains, inadvertently raising his voice.
He thought about Taiwan, where his elder brother
lived. There are many people of Asian descent living
in Hawaii, so Taiwan’s Asian atmosphere was very fa-
miliar and accessible to him. In addition, Taiwan has a
very low crime rate. Hence he decided in 2018 to move
permanently to Taiwan.
It’s about being in the water
As a veteran surfer, Jim found that except for the
days surrounding typhoons, waves in Taiwan paled in
comparison with the big waves known as “pipelines”
found at Hawaii’s Sunset Beach.
Since the waves are so small, why did he relocate to
Taiwan? Jim explains: “I’m 70 years old, and my shoul-
ders are not as strong as they used to be, but I can still
do stand-up paddleboarding. I was in the heart of surf-
ing in the world for more than 40 years, so I no longer
need big waves. Now, it’s just about being in the water.”
“Taiwan has three things that every international
surfing venue must have: warm water, happy faces,
and good food.” Jim, who is skilled at designing surf-
board fins, is especially optimistic about Taiwan as an
“emerging market” for surfing. “I hope I can use the
experience and expertise I have acquired over 50 years
of surfing, whether in terms of technique, knowledge,
or equipment, to help surfing groups in Hualien and
other places,” he states.
15
不管是在技術上、知識上、或是設備上，幫助花
蓮等地的衝浪團體。」Jim說。
他希望在台灣推廣趴板衝浪（B o d y b o a r d-
ing），因為設備較便宜、安全，並且更好學。他
的店樓上有房間，可以接待從各地來的衝浪客。
如果搭乘時光機，他認為人生最美的時光，是
1970∼1980年的夏威夷。Jim說：「台灣就像那個
時候的夏威夷，沒有過度發展，衝浪客都非常友
善，願意傾聽彼此，了解彼此。」
他舉例，學中文對他來說很困難，例如中文的 Jim願意花時間與衝浪愛好者交流。
「鑰匙」跟「要死」聽起來很像，但不會中文， Jim is willing to spend his time interacting with other surfing
aficionados.
卻完全不會妨礙他與衝浪客的溝通。他的太太
Tisha是廚藝高手，一樣不會中文的她，現在到花
蓮市場買菜、買肉，就像在夏威夷一樣，因為每
一位攤販都知道她來自夏威夷，不會說中文，縱 如同J a n提及的連接鯉魚潭及七星潭的花蓮兩
使比手畫腳也會熱心地幫助她。「台灣水果種類 潭自行車道，沿著太平洋騎乘，讓人心曠神怡。
豐富，可以說比夏威夷好上十倍，她尤其喜歡夏 花蓮縣長徐臻蔚更是推薦：「花蓮是世界上少數
威夷沒有的百香果。」Tisha說。 十分鐘就可以到達大山大海的城市，」花蓮豐濱
鄉的磯崎海水浴場、北濱公園及花蓮港堤外沙灘
這裡實在太棒了！
等，是在遠山環繞的衝浪天堂。除了衝浪，還有
訪問時，來自德國柏林的Jan Luo，因為台灣的 20條山海步道，不要忘了品嚐在地有機稻米、蜜
豔陽，上門向Jim尋求防曬乳液與衝浪的諮詢。 香紅茶、原民慢食等在地美味料理，世界旅人都
這是Jan第二次來台灣long stay四到五周，他 可在此找到屬於自己的頻率。
說：「這裡實在太棒了，柏林近幾年因為氣候 說到此，心動了嗎？如果你正規劃一∼三個月
變遷總是下雨，冬天又冷，台灣的冬天對我來 的衝浪長假，不妨到台灣追浪，好好感受溫暖的
說，實在是溫暖。」J a n去過台灣許多地方，但 湧浪與海洋的節奏。 l
最喜歡花蓮，他說，除了衝浪，台灣具有很好
的基礎設施可以騎腳踏車，他甚至在台灣買了
一輛腳踏車。

16
 到花蓮豐濱鄉的磯崎海灘衝浪，可將無敵山景與海景收盡眼底。（花蓮縣政府提供，羅敏鳳攝）
Surfers visiting Hualien’s Fengbin Township can see incomparable mountain and ocean scenery.
(photo by Luo Minfeng, courtesy of Hualien County Government)
He hopes to promote bodyboarding in Taiwan, be-
cause it is safer, the equipment is cheaper, and it is eas-
ier to learn. He has guest rooms above his shop where
he can accommodate surfers from all over.
It’s so nice here!
While we are interviewing Jim, Jan Luo, from Berlin,
Germany, comes into the shop.
Jan is on his second long stay in Taiwan, this time
staying four to five weeks. He says: “It’s so nice here! In
Berlin over the last several years it has been constantly
raining due to climate change and the winters are cold,
so for me winter in Taiwan is really warm.” He has been
to many places in Taiwan, but he likes Hualien the best.
He says that Taiwan has excellent infrastructure for cy-
cling, and besides surfing, he even bought a bicycle here.
Hualien County magistrate Hsu Chen-wei says that
Hualien is one of the few places in the world where one can
get to high mountains or the open ocean in ten minutes.
Jiqi Beach in Changbin Township, Beibin Park in Hualien
City, and the beach beyond the breakwater at the Port of
Hualien are all surfing hotspots ringed by mountains.
Besides riding the waves, Hualien also offers 20 mountain
and coastal trails, as well as delicious local cuisine includ-
ing organic rice, honey black tea, and indigenous peoples’
“slow food.” Travelers from around the globe can all find a
frequency that resonates with them in Hualien.
Are you inspired by what you have read here? If you
happen to be planning a long surfing vacation of one to
three months, why not come to Taiwan to chase the waves
and enjoy the rhythm of the warm ocean swells! l
(Esther Tseng/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
tr. by Phil Newell)
臺東縣政府提供
courtesy of Taitung County Government
17
面
事
COVER
STORY
封
故

他 們 非 到 台 灣 不 可 的 理 由
驚 艷 ， 高 山 之 島

18
 －
山
林
Island of Astonishing Mountains

樂
—Why International Travelers Come to Taiwan

趣
－
文•蘇俐穎 圖•林格立 版面設計•馬英凱

專門帶「阿兜仔」在台灣深度旅遊的美籍資深導遊羅雪柔，以台灣山林與
原住民文化作為賣點，向外國人介紹台灣。來自德國的音樂家魏樂富、前台
灣賓士總裁邁爾肯，還有以都蘭為家的澳洲醫生柯彼得，這些長居台灣的外
籍友人，也都曾不約而同表示，格外喜歡台灣的山。台灣的山到底有什麼特
別，竟能虜獲他們的心？

倘若搭著飛機從南方返台，可以看見，一路橫亙、高度遠在白雲之上的雄壯
山岳，綿延向大海的彼端。
山，是台灣地理最凸出的風景。高達七成的國土均為丘陵與山地，當中還包
括了海拔3,952公尺、東北亞第一高峰玉山在內的269座3,000公尺以上的高山。
除了山林資源豐富，台灣的環境，也兼具空間尺度的高度壓縮。好比到東
岸，搭船出海，只消半小時，可以看到只會在深海中泅泳的鯨豚，晚上就可以
到深山的太魯閣過夜。俗語有句話「近廟欺神」，台灣人不以為意的日常，卻
是許多外國人眼中的非常。

M any foreigners who have lived in Taiwan for a long time have come to
love the mountains here. What is so special about Taiwan’s mountains
that captivates their hearts?

If you were to approach Taiwan by plane from the south and fly the length of the
island, you would see majestic peaks piercing the white clouds along the entire way, ex-
tending all the way to the ocean at the northern tip.
Mountains are the most prominent geographic feature in Taiwan, with as much as 70%
of its territory covered by highlands. There are 269 peaks taller than 3,000 meters above
sea level, including Yushan (Mt. Jade), Northeast Asia’s highest mountain at 3,952 meters.

19
 亞洲珍藏的祕密

這是由於台灣地質年輕。想像我們在古老大陸
的歐洲或者北美，可能連續驅車好幾小時、好幾
日，眼前都是雷同的風景。而台灣是經歐亞大陸板
塊與菲律賓海板塊擠壓而抬升的海島，加上緯度
恰好座落在熱帶、亞熱帶之交，地貌、物種格外多
樣，地貌尤其奇峻。
這樣的台灣山景，反倒讓國際旅客感到別開生
面的新鮮與深刻。來自捷克、長期定居台灣的跑山
選手羅明瑞，因為喜歡山林，在雪霸國家公園擔
任長期志工，「台灣的山，很『野』！」羅明瑞解
釋：「在歐洲時，我們很輕易都可以走到森林裡，
但台灣的山，若沒有步道，往往很難進入。」
也因此，山林，比起小吃、茶、手搖飲、夜
市、101、廟宇等台灣代表性的觀光資源，都還更
富識別性。尤其，當鄰近國家，有同樣以小吃著稱
的香港，以夜市出名的泰國，而廟宇也是華人圈共
享的特色──是山，讓台灣能從中脫穎而出。
雖然，對於這樣的優勢，台灣人似乎渾而未
覺。部分原因，出於台灣長期實施的封山政策，
但作為高山之島、高山之國，隨著2019年11月行
政院宣布「山林解禁」，開放許多林道，大幅鬆
綁入山限制，加上2020年的Covid-19疫情接踵來
到，海外旅遊備受限制，也觸發了台灣人積極向
內探索的動力。
可說對內、對外，台灣正在歷經身分重構、建
登山圈人稱「楊大」的楊志明，以山為台灣遞
立自我識別的過渡性階段。面貌的蒙昧模糊，別具 出一張給外國人的名片。
的神祕感格外富魅力，好似正向那些對台灣帶有好 Yang Chih-ming, known in hiking circles as “Yang
Da” (“Big Yang”), uses the mountains to introduce
奇的外國人招手。「亞洲珍藏的祕密。」羅雪柔曾 Taiwan to foreigners.

推薦這句話，可作為對外宣傳到台旅遊的Slogan。

人人都有屬於自己的一條路

因此，不少專營「入境旅客」的旅行社業者一
致表示，台灣推觀光，可以以山作為主要賣點。
何以見得？四面環山的台北，是大多數觀光客
來到台灣的目的地。平常日的早晨，我們隨著野樵
國際旅行社創辦人楊志明的步伐，一路從捷運站出
口徒步到象山步道的登山口。
四獸山步道之一的象山，是市民週末健行的熱
門選擇，不過平常日的象山很不一樣，登山小徑上
充滿了打扮得光鮮亮麗的遊客，沿途可以聽見日、
韓、英、法、帶有馬來西亞腔的中文等語言交雜，
楊志明說：「倘若帶到馬來西亞華人的團，這裡是
他們一定會指定的景點。」
至於遊客們的目標，除了沿途必經的六巨石，
能夠遠眺101的觀景平台，更是他們前來的理由。

20

台北盆地擁有許多山林資源，陽明山的小油坑（上）、擎
天崗（下）讓旅客發現台北在都會風光以外的另一面。
The Taipei Basin is ringed by mountains. Xiaoyoukeng (above)
and Qingtiangang (below), both on Yangmingshan, allow
visitors to see a different side of Taipei than its urban scenery.
Besides having an abundance of mountain forests, Taiwan
is very compact. For example, in Eastern Taiwan you can
take a boat out to sea and within half an hour see cetaceans
swimming in deep ocean waters, while that same evening
you can spend the night deep in the mountains of Taroko
National Park. While many Taiwanese take this geography
for granted, in the eyes of many foreigners it is exceptional.
Taiwan is the way it is because it is geologically young.
The island was created by land being uplifted by the colli-
sion of the Eurasian and Philippine Sea tectonic plates. The
topography is complex, high and steep, and this, combined
with Taiwan’s location straddling tropical and subtropical
climate zones, has given it remarkable biodiversity.
Many foreign travelers to Taiwan find its mountain
scenery uniquely impressive. Czech mountain runner
Mike Lo, who has lived in Taiwan for many years, loves
the mountains so much that he serves as a long-term
volunteer at Shei-Pa National Park. “The mountains of
Taiwan are really wild!” Lo explains: “In Europe, it’s very
easy to go into forests, but in the mountains of Taiwan
that’s very difficult unless there’s a trail.”
Thus Taiwan’s mountain forests are a very distinctive
part of the island’s character, even more so than other
representative tourism resources such as the local cui-
sine, tea, night markets, Taipei 101, and temples. In par-
ticular, with nearby countries having comparable tourist
attractions—such as the food in Hong Kong, the night
markets in Thailand, and temples everywhere—it is the
mountains that really make Taiwan stand out.
Everyone has their own path
This is why many travel agencies that specialize in
inbound travelers state that Taiwan can best promote
international tourism by making the mountains its main
selling point.
How so? We start in Taipei, which is surrounded by
mountains. One weekday morning, we follow in the
footsteps of Yang Chih-ming (also known to foreigners
as Yang Da), founder of Wildman International Travel &
Tours, as he walks from the exit of the Xiangshan Metro
station to the trail heading up Xiangshan (Elephant
Mountain, one of Taipei’s “Four Beasts” mountains).
The Xiangshan Trail is a popular option for city res-
idents to hike on weekends. But it is very different on a
weekday, when it is filled with travelers. Along the way
we hear a mixture of languages, including Japanese,
Korean, English, French, and Mandarin Chinese spo-
ken with a Malaysian accent.
The main reason these travelers come here is to get
to the lookout platform, from where one can see Taipei
101 in the distance. At dusk, you can sometimes see
foreigners with snacks and alcoholic drinks gathering
on the platform to hold a party.
You could say that there is nothing that makes Taipei
21
 太魯閣境內的錐麓古道是近年當紅的健行路線。
（宏祥旅行社提供）
Hiking the Zhuilu Old Road in Taroko National Park
has become increasingly popular in recent years.
(courtesy of Edison Tours)

最後以北投的地熱谷、溫泉博物館等景點作結，就
享有東北亞第一高峰的玉山，吸引國內外登山愛好者前往。 能讓遊客領略有別於都會叢林的台北風光。
（宏祥旅行社提供）
Yushan attracts mountaineering aficionados from home and 古道行腳，發思古之幽情
abroad. (courtesy of Edison Tours)

隨著交通的便捷、資訊互動的頻仍，深度旅遊
成為時代趨勢。而在沒有公路、鐵道的時代，擔綱
黃昏時刻，還有機會看到外國人結夥，揹著點心、 交通重責的古道，成為了近年國內外旅客探訪台灣
酒水上山，在平台開起了小小Party。 的熱門方式。淡蘭古道連結了台北、基隆、宜蘭，
可以說，生活在群山環繞的台北，市民的幸福 以秋季蒼茫的芒花聞名，還結合馬偕來台傳教的行
莫過於此。親民的四獸山步道系統以外，只要有爬 腳，頗能引發北美旅客的共鳴。往返新北與宜蘭的
山的習慣，人們也會依照居住地連結到鄰近的郊山 哈盆越嶺古道；從烏來直抵桃園拉拉山，往昔為泰
步道，「南區有貓空的步道系統；士林、天母也有 雅族狩獵、通婚使用的福巴越嶺古道，除了山野風
天母古道、陽明山國家公園的步道。」宏祥旅行社 光，鑲嵌的原住民文化更是引人入勝。
總經理郭岱奇談起。 在旅遊產業蕭條的疫情期間，楊志明協助政府
乘著國內登山的熱潮，從中央到地方，政府各 規劃及推動多條國家級步道。時常動輒十天、半個
級單位紛紛盤點、整合、串聯台灣各地的步道資 月，率團客到尼泊爾、馬來西亞、祕魯爬大山的
源。郭岱奇指出，不論你的體能為何，有沒有運動 他，心中的理想，是國際知名的西班牙朝聖之路、
習慣；需求為何，願不願意攜帶裝備、想要一日往 日本的熊野古道、香港的麥里浩徑那樣的經典路
返或者多日行程；甚至是特別偏好，想要賞鳥、賞 線。他希望，光是一條路，就可以替台灣向國際遊
蝶、想登東北亞最高峰、想看冰河地形，甚至是 客，遞出一張亮眼的名片。
想體驗原住民文化，在山林資源豐富多樣的台灣， 其中，必須花上十來天才能走完全程的山海圳
「所有的人，都可以找到屬於自己的一條路。」 綠道，從台南的台江國家公園出發，直攻玉山山
宏祥旅行社主打商業登山經營入境觀光客已有 頂，紮紮實實地從海拔0公尺開啟，攀升到3,952公
36年。郭岱奇分析，來台灣的旅客七成都會進台 尺的台灣之巔，楊志明認為：「放在國際上，是非
北，而光是台北的地理條件，不論是爬「大山」前 常有競爭力的一條路。」
的暖身，或者是單純地瀏覽自然風光，台北都有相 另條代表性的「樟之細路」，貫串桃園龍潭與
當多景點，可提供半日到一日的「日歸」行程。 台中東勢間的內山小徑，路程反映著不同先民族群
採訪時逢冬季，正是怕熱的歐美旅客來台的旺 間的互動，以及台灣伐樟煉腦的產業歷史。從清末
季。宏祥推出的陽明山一日遊程，日日都爆滿， 到日治時期，台灣曾是樟腦產業的重鎮，產製的樟
「客人的回饋也都很正面。」郭岱奇說。光是帶著 腦經由淡水河送往世界各地，在鼎盛時期，占全球
遊客走訪陽明山經典的冷水坑、擎天崗、小油坑， 產量的70%，產業的歷史也能引發外國遊客共鳴。

22
residents happier than being surrounded by mountains.
Besides the easily accessible “Four Beasts” trail system,
anyone can easily find mountain trails nearby to where
they live.
With the rising enthusiasm for mountain hiking in
Taiwan, governments at all levels have been actively
inventorying, renovating, and linking trail resources.
Edison Tours general manager Dennis Kuo notes that
regardless of your physical condition and preferences,
in Taiwan, “Everyone can find their own path.” This ap-
plies whether people are willing to carry equipment with
them, whether they want to hike for a single day or make
multi-day journeys, or whatever their favored activities—
birdwatching, butterfly watching, climbing Yushan,
seeing glacial topography, or experiencing the cultures of
Taiwan’s indigenous peoples.
Hiking historic trails
In the days before roads and railways, it was trails that
provided the main routes of transportation, and in recent
years these ancient trails have become a popular way for
domestic and international tourists to explore Taiwan. For
example, the Tamsui–Kavalan Trails link together Taipei,
Keelung, and Yilan, and are famous for the silvergrass that
blooms in the autumn. These routes were also followed by
the Canadian missionary Dr. George Leslie Mackay and
嘉明湖在馬來西亞遊客之中格外享有盛名。（野樵國際旅行社提供）
Jiaming Lake National Trail is especially well known among Malaysian travelers.
(courtesy of Wildman International Travel & Tours)
thus have special meaning for North Americans. There
is also the Hapen Historic Trail, which connects New
Taipei City with Yilan County, as well as the Fubayue-
ling Historic Trail, running from Wulai in New Taipei
to Mt. Lala in Taoyuan, which was formerly used by the
Atayal indigenous people for hunting and intermarriage.
During the downturn in the tourism industry caused
by the Covid-19 pandemic, Yang Chih-ming remained
active by helping the government to develop several
national-grade trails. Yang, who frequently leads groups
on ten- or 15-day trips overseas to ascend tall moun-
tains in countries such as Nepal, Malaysia or Peru, took
as his ideal such classic pathways as the Camino de
Santiago in Spain, the Kumano Kodō in Japan, and the
MacLehose Trail in Hong Kong. He hopes that trails can
serve to introduce Taiwan to international travelers.
Yang has high hopes for the Mountains to Sea Green-
way, which takes over ten days to hike from start to
finish. Beginning at sea level in Taijiang National Park
in Tainan, it ascends to the peak of Yushan at 3,952 me-
ters. Yang believes: “Internationally speaking, this is a
very competitive route.”
Another representative route is the Raknus Selu
Trail, which runs from Longtan in Taoyuan to Dongshi
in Taichung. The journey sheds light on the interactions
23
 大雪山擁有豐富鳥類資源，是鳥迷訪台時不會錯過的重要景點。（林旻萱攝）
Daxueshan is home to a huge variety of birds, making it a must-see attraction for
bird lovers who visit Taiwan. (photo by Lin Min-hsuan)

大山，不容錯過的絕景

「你知道嗎？台灣的玉山比富士山還高哦！」 的南湖大山，「環境特殊，很難被取代。」
這是時常參加國際戶外運動展、旅展的郭岱奇，常 英雄所見略同，楊志明輔以一則小小的歷史典
掛在嘴邊的一句話。 故解說。日治時代，博物學家鹿野忠雄邀請其師田
台灣有哪些國際觀光客不願錯過的名山？指標 中薰到台灣，田中薰迢迢千里，要求鹿野忠雄必須
性的玉山，因享有東北亞第一高峰的美名最富人 挑選一座最具代表性的山岳，鹿野忠雄就選擇了南
氣。峻峭的地勢，讓人沿途可以快速欣賞到闊葉 湖大山。而後，兩人在具有「冰河香味」的山中，
林、針闊葉混合林、針葉林到高山寒原帶等林相的 發現了12個圈谷以及其他冰蝕地形的存在。
快速變化；最後攻頂的200公尺，風化後粉碎性的 「爬南湖大山，先由勝光入山口起步，路上會
碎石，尤其罕見。唯一的缺點，山上的排雲山莊， 經過長滿二葉松的松風嶺，可以欣賞針闊葉混合
每天只開放24個外籍旅客保留名額，被山友戲稱： 林、針葉林的林相變化。接著，會來到倏然開闊的
「登玉山不難，但要抽中床位很難！」 審馬陣草原，可以飽覽南湖群峰及雪山銀白色的
以冰河圈谷景觀聞名的第二高峰雪山，山系之 『聖稜線』。再來，抵達有著陡峭石脊的五岩峰，
中包括了賞鳥勝地大雪山；全世界唯二（另一處在 以及冰河遺跡南湖圈谷……」山景的雄渾，寥寥數
義大利），有著雪白大理石切割河床地形，縱深可 語，難以深刻領會，勾起人「風聞有你，不如親眼
達800公尺的太魯閣，同樣具特色。 見你」的無限嚮往，「就是非常漂亮啊！」楊志明
至於大學即加入登山社的楊志明，首推南湖 讚嘆地說。可以見得，短短數日走馬看花的盤桓，
大山。楊志明說，「登山界有句話：『南湖帝王 哪裡足夠？為了登山而來的團客，行程動輒十天、
頭』。」可以一次飽覽雄渾山嶽、峭壁、斷崖、奇 半個月起跳，更遑論長期居遊的外國旅客。在這
石、日出、雲海、松林、溪流、瀑布、圈谷等風光 裡，有「他們」願意遠道而來的理由。 l

板塊的擠壓，加上豐沛溪水的長年切割，有
著潔白大理石垂直切面的太魯閣，景觀世界
罕有。
Taroko Gorge, carved by flowing waters into
land pushed upward by tectonic forces, offers
scenery of sheer white marble rock walls that
is rare anywhere in the world.

24
between different ethnic groups over time as well as the
history of the camphor industry in Taiwan. Taiwan was
a world leader in camphor production from the late Qing
Dynasty to the era of Japanese rule, and the product made
here was shipped around the world. At its peak the local
camphor industry accounted for 70% of global production.
Can’t-miss spectacular views
“Did you know that Yushan in Taiwan is higher than
Mt. Fuji in Japan?!” This is an oft-spoken sentence for
Dennis Kuo, who often takes part in international out-
doors and travel exhibitions.
What famous mountains does Taiwan have that can
appeal to international tourists? The main one is Yushan,
because it enjoys the status of being the highest peak in
Northeast Asia.
Taiwan’s second highest peak, Xueshan (Mt. Xue or
Mt. Snow), is known for its glacial cirques. The Xueshan
Range includes the well-known birdwatching destina-
tion Daxueshan. The nearby Taroko Gorge, one of only
two white marble gorges in the world and up to 800 me-
ters deep in places, is likewise remarkable.
Yang Chih-ming, who started mountaineering by
joining a hiking club in university, gives his highest
recommendation to Mt. Nanhu in Taroko National
Park. Yang remarks: “In the hiking community we call
Nanhu the King of Mountains.”
Yang relates a historical anecdote to support his
preference for Mt. Nanhu: Back in the era of Japanese
rule, naturalist Tadao Kano invited Kaoru Tanaka, his
teacher from Japan, to make a trip to Taiwan. Tanaka
asked Kano to select one mountain area that was most
representative of Taiwan, and Kano chose Mt. Nanhu.
The two men hiked in these mountains and discovered
12 cirques and other glacial landforms.
The majestic power of mountain scenery cannot be
described in a few words, giving people a strong desire
to “see for themselves.” “It’s extraordinarily beautiful!”
exclaims Yang Chih-ming. It is obvious that a visit of
just a few days cannot suffice to appreciate it. People
who come to Taiwan for mountaineering should plan
to spend at least ten days. The wonder of these moun-
tains is one of the main reasons why foreign visitors
are willing to travel so far to get here. l
(Lynn Su/photos by Jimmy Lin/tr. by Phil Newell)
10年前參與師大龍舟隊，讓Lukas交到許多朋友，也留下珍
貴回憶。
(lower photos) Taichung’s old town is well-suited to leisurely
strolling. It offers a combination of old and new, such as this chic
independent bookstore and the century-old cast-iron decorations
on the Zhongshan Green Bridge.
25
 封 面
故 事
COVER
STORY

觀 光 旅 遊 新 趨 勢
醫 療 養 生 在 台 灣

A New Trend in Medical Tourism

—Healthcare and Health Maintenance in Taiwan

文•郭美瑜 圖•莊坤儒 版面設計•馬英凱

台灣醫療院所配備高階醫療技術與設備，擁有領先全球的肝臟移植、生殖
醫學等特色醫療，提供高性價比的醫護服務，醫療素質與照護品質在全球具有
競爭優勢，加以並行的傳統中醫治療，形成全球少有的中西醫雙軌之醫療與養
生環境。
醫療養生，全球旅遊新趨勢。來台灣，感受自然資源和人文風貌，還可以
尋求醫療諮詢、就醫規劃，休閒兼具療癒，一次滿足。

H ospitals in Taiwan possess high-end medical technology and equipment,

and Taiwan is a world leader in certain specialties, including liver
transplantation and reproductive medicine. Institutions here provide very
cost-effective healthcare services and have a competitive advantage against
the rest of the world in terms of the level of medical science and the quality of
care. When you also consider that Traditional Chinese Medicine is practiced
here side by side with Western medicine, Taiwan offers a two-track Chinese
and Western medical and health-maintenance environment that is rare any-
where around the globe.
There is a new global trend of traveling for medical care and health main-
tenance. If you come to Taiwan, besides enjoying the natural environment
and local culture, you can also seek out healthcare consultations and medi-
cal treatment. In one trip you can satisfy your desire for both recreation and
healthcare.

26
 －
醫
療
台灣大型醫院配備高階影像醫學設

養
備，結合臨床端的領域知識，建立
核心競爭優勢。
Large hospitals in Taiwan have high-
grade medical imaging equipment as

生
well as clinical expertise in specialist
fields, giving them a core competitive
advantage.

台灣現有17家醫療院所，通過國際醫療品質評鑑最具公信力單位JCI
（聯合委員會）的認證。
Taiwan currently has 17 healthcare institutions that have been accredited
by Joint Commission International.

27
 大型醫院跨足健檢產業，引
進飯店式「以客為尊」的健
檢服務。
Large medical institutions that
offer self-paid health checks
have adopted a hotel-style
“customer first” service model.

歲末年終，台北新光醫院的健檢中心報到大 上檢查，中午就有醫師先向顧客說明，正式的報
廳，有許多等待檢查的民眾，包括有歐美、印尼 告會在七至十天寄到通訊地址。等待報告期間，
等國人士，他們忙碌了一整年，為自己安排年終 顧客可以安排旅遊行程，醫療兼旅遊，一次滿
健康檢查，為新年儲備續航力。 足。」新光醫院副院長洪子仁說。
院內的正子斷層造影中心，配備兩台磁振造影
台灣的醫療強項
儀器（MRI）、一台多切面電腦斷層（CT）、一
台正子斷層掃描儀，MRI廣泛用於大腦和脊髓、 台灣國民平均壽命將近80歲，高於全球，
心臟血管系統等檢查，CT檢查異常組織增生，例 除了有完善的全民健保制度，最重要的是台灣
如腫瘤……確認身體有無異狀。 擁有優質的醫療水準。2023年國際商業雜誌
「若從影像就可以看見明顯的異狀，通常早 （CEOWORLD）公布全球110個國家的健康照護

Taiwan’s robust healthcare system
The average life expectancy in Taiwan is nearly 80
years, significantly higher than the world average. The
main reason, besides the island’s comprehensive na-
tional health insurance system, is that Taiwan offers
high- quality healthcare services. In 2023 the inter-
national business magazine CEOWORLD compared the
healthcare systems in 110 countries around the world,
and Taiwan ranked number one.
Wu Ming-yen, CEO of the Medical Excellence Tai-
wan foundation, says that Taiwan put in place an
assessment and evaluation system for healthcare in-
stitutions as long as 30 years ago. It was the first coun-
try in Asia and the fourth in the world to implement
healthcare institution assessments. For example, to date
17 healthcare institutions in Taiwan have received JCI
Gold Seal of Approval accreditation from
Joint Commission International, an
international assessment organi-
zation for medical services.
Wu notes that Taiwan has
an excellent reputation inter-
nationally for a variety of med-
ical services, including

醫策會健康檢查品質認證召委、新光醫院副院長洪子仁
說，台灣推動健檢機構品質認證，健檢品質相對有保障。
Alex Hung of Shin Kong Hospital, who chairs the committee for
Health Check-up Program Certification at the Joint Commission
of Taiwan, says that the promotion of a certification system for
institutions ensures the quality of physical examinations.

28
 醫院健檢中心的裝潢設計
走精緻路線，讓顧客感覺
很放鬆。
Hospital health check
centers have refined interior
decor, making clients feel at
ease.

體系評比，台灣名列第一。 血管治療、關節置換術、牙科治療等特殊醫療，
財團法人台灣醫療健康產業卓越聯盟基金會執 台灣在國際間享有盛名，其中，肝、腎臟移植的
行長吳明彥說，台灣早在30年前就實施醫療院所 併發症低、高成功率與存活率，成就傲人，尤以
評鑑制度，是亞洲第一、全球第四個實施醫療院 活體肝臟移植的重症醫療強項，五年存活率最高
所評鑑的國家。因著醫院評鑑，促使醫療院所不 可達93.5%，超越歐美，蜚聲國際。
斷精進技術與品質，讓台灣醫療在全球具有競爭 台灣專業醫療服務，早在數十年前就開啟國
優勢，已有17家醫療院所通過JCI（醫院質量）國 際醫衛合作，2007年新光醫院與帛琉推動醫衛計
際評鑑。 畫，派遣新光醫護駐診、轉診台灣就醫、校園營
吳明彥說，除了一般疾病治療，像是顱顏整型 養教育計畫、代訓醫事人員等。亞東醫院則是在
外科手術、肝臟、腎臟移植、人工生殖技術、心 院培訓貝里斯的醫師與透析護理師，授予專業的

craniofacial surgery, liver and kidney transplantation, as-
sisted reproductive technology, cardiovascular treatment,
joint replacement surgery, and dental care. Among these,
liver and kidney transplantation are especially successful,
with low rates of complications and high rates of success
and survival. Living-donor liver transplantation in par-
ticular is renowned worldwide, with a five-year survival
rate of 93.5%, higher than in Europe or North America.
Taiwan’s specialized medical service providers began
engaging in international cooperation decades ago. In
2007, Shin Kong Wu Ho-Su Memorial Hospital worked
with Palau to launch a joint healthcare program, includ-
ing sending medical personnel from Shin Kong to Palau
to provide on-site services, referring patients from Palau
to Taiwan for treatment, offering a school nutrition ed-
ucation program, and training local medical personnel.
Meanwhile, Far Eastern Memorial Hospital provides in-
house training to doctors and dialysis nurses from Be-
lize. Medical staff who have received training in Taiwan

財團法人台灣醫療健康產業卓越聯盟基金會
執行長吳明彥說，台灣醫療有許多強項與優勢。
Wu Ming-yen, CEO of Medical Excellence Taiwan,
notes that Taiwan’s healthcare sector has many
strengths and competitive advantages.

29
 （左圖）北醫附醫傳統醫學科醫師蘇柏璇說，
針灸、服用科學中藥或茶飲，皆可改善身體不
適。（郭美瑜攝）
(left) Su Po-hsuan, a doctor in the Department of
Traditional Chinese Medicine at Taipei Medical
University Hospital, suggests that acupuncture,
science-based herbal medicines, and dietary changes
can all alleviate health problems. (photo by Mei Kuo)

台灣是世界少數採取中、西醫雙軌醫療制度的
國家。（郭美瑜攝）
(below) Taiwan is one of the few countries in the
world to adopt a two-track healthcare system
featuring both Western medicine and Traditional
Chinese Medicine. (photo by Mei Kuo)

腎臟病防治訓練，受訓的醫護返回貝國繼續擔任
種子教師臨床訓練，提升腎臟病防治專業能力。

高性價比的醫療優勢

常言「工欲善其事，必先利其器」，吳明彥
說，好的醫療一定要有好的儀器或設備，無論是
疾病篩檢及診斷利器的CT、MRI儀器，或是精準
治療癌症病灶的高價癌症治療儀器質子治療機，
「這些台灣很多」。
近年的健康概念與趨勢，既強調疾病治療，也
重視預防醫學，台灣的大型醫療院所捨得投資設
備，跨足醫療高階健檢，發展熱門的健檢產業， 衛福部統計，2022年台灣醫療院所2萬3578
自費健檢的市場也快速成長。 家，其中，大型醫院480家占2%，診所2萬3,098
兼任醫策會健康檢查品質認證召集人的洪子仁 家、占98.0%。洪子仁表示，都會區可能三、五
說，2021年醫策會成立健康檢查品質認證小組， 步就有一家診所，數百公尺就有一家醫院，以台
針對醫療機構設立的健檢服務，執行健康檢查品 北捷運為例，文湖線、新店線、板南線上，就
質認證制度，例如癌症檢查、腦血管、心血管、 有萬芳、台大、馬偕、新光、亞東等五家醫學中
綜合體檢等檢查項目，評鑑其完整性，在台健檢 心，即便是非都會區，政府擴大推動遠距醫療，
品質相對有保障。 山地、偏鄉、離島的民眾透過視訊問診，也有機
台灣因實施健保制度，醫療服務的性價比在 會獲得周全的醫療照顧。
國際間也具特色。吳明彥引用英國《每日電訊
中西醫雙軌制
報》的報導指出，台灣是世界上提供最好的醫療
設施，醫療價格卻是最親民的國家，是國際醫 「台灣的醫療特色，還包括中醫導入醫療與養
療患者選擇到台灣治療的重要因素。以試管嬰兒 生，延緩老化。」台北醫學大學藥學系藥物科學
為例，在台灣，平均活產存活率逾三成，醫療費 學科教授王靜瓊表示，傳統醫學雖在全球被廣泛
用卻僅是歐美日的三分之一，在國際間很有吸引 應用，但僅台、中、韓三國家，比照西醫，將西
力。洪子仁也說，該院有來自中、港、東南亞國 醫的教、考、訓、用導入中醫師的正規訓練，課
家，甚至日本的民眾前來求子。 程中也涵蓋西醫基礎訓練，這種中、西醫雙軌制
「交通便利，就醫方便；醫療可近性也是台灣 並行的醫學訓練，全球少見。
的優勢。」洪子仁說。 北醫附設醫院傳統醫學科醫師蘇柏璇說，中

30
work as seed teachers to provide clinical training when
they get back to Belize, thereby upgrading that country’s
professional capabilities in kidney disease prevention.
Competitive advantage in cost-effectiveness
The saying goes that “to do a good job, a worker needs
the best tools.” Wu says that good equipment is essential
to good healthcare. Whether it be computed tomography
(CT) scanners and magnetic resonance imaging (MRI)
machines, which greatly assist disease screening and
diagnosis, or even high-priced proton therapy devices for
precision treatment of cancer, “Taiwan has a lot of them.”
In recent years, in addition to the treatment of dis-
eases, there has been an increasing emphasis on preven-
tive medicine. Large healthcare institutions have been
willing to invest in equipment for sophisticated physical
examinations and develop health check services to meet
a rapidly growing market for self-paid health checks.
Alex Hung, administrative deputy superintendent at
Shin Kong Hospital and chairman of the committee in
charge of Health Check-up Program Certification at the
Joint Commission of Taiwan (JCT), states that the JCT
established the committee in 2021 to establish a quality
certification system for health check programs provided
by healthcare institutions. The JCT evaluates the caliber
of various procedures, such as cancer screening, cere-
brovascular and cardiovascular testing, and compre-
hensive physical examinations. There is consequently
a high level of confidence about the quality of health
checks in Taiwan.
中醫認為，泡溫泉可以促進氣血循環，改善痠痛症狀。圖為綠島朝日溫泉。（外交部資料）
Traditional Chinese Medicine holds that hot spring bathing can promote circulation of the qi (vital
essence) and blood, thereby relieving soreness and pain. The photo shows the Zhaori Hot Springs on
Green Island. (MOFA file photo)
按摩也是養生產業的一環。
（外交部資料）
Massage is one element in the
health maintenance industry.
(MOFA file photo)
Because Taiwan has a national health insurance sys-
tem, its medical services are especially cost-effective. Wu
Ming-yen references an article in the UK’s Daily Telegraph
newspaper, which stated that Taiwan provides the best
healthcare facilities in the world while the costs are very
patient-friendly. This is a major reason why many inter-
national patients choose to come to Taiwan for treatment.
For example, for in-vitro fertilization, in Taiwan the
average live birth rate is over 30%, while the costs are
only one-third of what they are in Europe, North Amer-
ica, and Japan.
Two-track Chinese and Western system
“Another unique aspect of healthcare in Taiwan is
that it includes Traditional Chinese Medicine [TCM],
which incorporates both treatment of health problems
and general health maintenance.” Wang Ching-chiung,
31
 長庚養生文化村主任杜素珍說，養生村有開闊的山林環境及完
善的服務，許多人未退休就搶先預約。（林格立攝）
Tu Su-chen, director of the Management Department at Chang
Gung Health and Culture Village, says the village offers a
spacious wooded hillside environment and comprehensive
services, and many people seek to reserve places there even
before retiring. (photo by Jimmy Lin)

蘇柏璇說，常見駐台的跨國企業員工，因時
差、熬夜工作而出現睡眠障礙、經期不順等症
狀，或因外派壓力大，肩頸僵硬、臉上狂冒痘
痘。這些症狀經中醫鑑別體質、下處方，再藉助
中藥、針灸或養生茶包，皆可獲得改善，且中醫
院的藥方皆經檢驗，安全有保障。他的外籍病患
中，有人求助中醫治療不孕症，也有阿茲海默症
患者，採中藥及針灸治療，改善手抖、認知障礙
醫以望聞問切的方法，針對個別體質進行鑑別診 等症狀，返國時帶回半年藥物調理，半年後又回
斷，開立處方。例如將人的體質分為氣虛型、陽 診的案例。
虛型、陰虛型、濕熱型、痰濕型等九種類型，很
中醫介入養生
多人兼雜不同的體質，例如痰濕夾雜氣虛，就需
同時治療與調養。 王靜瓊說，中醫不只提供醫療，也介入養生，
不只國人採用中醫治療疾病，也有許多外籍 這是全球少有的照護模式。例如，長者常有的
人士身體不適看中醫。日本電影金像獎影后黑木 「流目油」眼睛酸澀症狀，中醫處方的杞菊地黃
瞳，2022年應邀來台擔任金馬獎頒獎人時，在記 丸、明目丸，就兼具療效與調養。
者會受訪時透露，她會專程停留台北一晚，只為 中醫認為人體的臟腑對應經絡，經絡暢通、臟
看中醫拿藥調理腸胃。 腑協調，則氣血調和、身體強健，反之則可能出
現不適。因此，當人體某部位功能失調時，可藉
刮痧、拔罐、養生氣功、穴位按摩等手法，疏通
經絡氣血，促使生理恢復平衡與協調。
王靜瓊說，台灣按摩養生館的師傅講究穴位，
他們提供服務時會向顧客解說穴位對應的臟腑，
例如太陽穴、合谷穴舒緩頭痛，就是中醫導入養
生的實例。
蘇柏璇也說，台灣美容院的洗髮服務提供頭肩
頸按摩，養生館的頭肩頸、腳底按摩、就具穴位
按摩的原理。另外，北投、礁溪、蘇澳的溫泉知
名，溫泉泡湯可促進氣血循環，達到養生保健的
目的。
養生、養老的觀念與時俱進，位在幽靜山區的長庚養生文化
中醫強調順應四季變化，挑選飲食養生，春
村，住房供不應求。（林格立攝）
The concepts of health maintenance and healthy aging are 天養肝、夏天袪濕消暑、秋天養肺潤燥、冬令進
moving with the times. The supply of residences at the Chang
Gung Health and Culture Village can’t keep up with demand. 補保暖。蘇柏璇說，人們可以先透過中醫師鑑別
(photo by Jimmy Lin)

32
a professor in the Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences
at Taipei Medical University, states that although forms
of traditional medicine are practiced throughout the
world, it is only in Taiwan, China, and Korea that edu-
cation, professional examinations, training and practice
in Western medicine are incorporated into the standard
training of TCM doctors, so that the TCM curriculum
also covers basic training in Western medicine. This two-
track system that includes both Chinese and Western
medicine is very rare anywhere in the world.
Su Po-hsuan, an attending physician in the Depart-
ment of Traditional Chinese Medicine at Taipei Medical
University Hospital, explains that TCM uses the methods
of observation, auscultation, olfaction, inquiry, and pulse
diagnosis to provide differential diagnoses and prescrip-
tions to people depending on their individual physical
condition. There are nine basic patterns of physical condi-
tion, including “deficiency of qi” (vital essence), “deficiency
of yang” (the active force), “deficiency of yin” (the passive
force), “damp heat,” and “phlegm dampness.” Many peo-
ple have a mixture of these types, such as a combination
of “phlegm dampness” and “qi deficiency,” that need to
be treated at the same time.
It is not only Taiwanese who opt for TCM treatment—
many foreigners also seek TCM therapies for their bodily
ills. For example, when Hitomi Kuroki, a Japanese actress
and director who has won a Hong Kong Film Award, was
invited to Taiwan in 2022 to serve as a presenter at the
Golden Horse Awards, she revealed at a press conference
that she would be spending an extra night in Taipei in
order to see a TCM doctor to get medicine for her stomach.
Su Po-hsuan says that his foreign patients include
some who seek TCM help for infertility, as well as people
with Alzheimer’s disease who opt for TCM therapies in-
cluding acupuncture and moxibustion to alleviate hand
tremors or cognitive impairment, and who may take six
months’ worth of medications with them when they re-
turn home, and come back for a follow-up appointment
after half a year.
TCM and health maintenance
Wang Ching-chiung emphasizes that TCM not only
offers therapies, but is also part of general health mainte-
nance, which is a rare healthcare model anywhere in the
world. For example, the TCM prescriptions for sore, watery
eyes (a frequent problem among the elderly)—ji ju dihuang
wan (pills containing lycium, chrysanthemum, and reh-
mannia), and mingmu wan (“eyesight-improving pills”)—
have both therapeutic and health maintenance functions.
One of the principles of TCM is that the internal organs
correspond to “meridians” that run through the body.
When the functions of a certain part of the body fall out
of balance, various methods can used (including scrape
therapy, cupping, qigong, and acupressure) to enable the qi
and blood to flow more freely through the meridians and
restore the body to health and harmony.
Wang Ching-chiung states that masseurs at health
massage facilities in Taiwan pay particular attention to
accupressure points. When giving a massage, they ex-
plain to clients the internal organs that correspond to cer-
新光集團在新北市板橋都會區興建全齡養生宅，訴求區段
好，也適合各行業駐台人員入住。（新光新板傑仕堡提供）
The Shin Kong Group has set up Jasper Villa Banqiao in New
Taipei’s Banqiao District, offering serviced apartments suitable
for long- and short-stay medical tourism visits, including by
foreign professionals stationed in Taiwan.
(courtesy of Jasper Villa Banqiao)
tain pressure points. For example, to relieve headaches
they massage the pressure points called the taiyang xue
(on the temples, at the sides of the head) and the hegu
xue (in the flesh between the thumb and index finger of
each hand). This is a practical example of how TCM has
been incorporated into health maintenance.
Su Po-hsuan adds that while beauty salons in Taiwan
give head, neck, and shoulder massages when sham-
pooing hair, the head, neck, and shoulder massages and
foot massages provided by wellness centers are based
on the principle of pressure points. In addition, soaking
at a hot spring can promote circulation of qi and blood
and achieve the goal of health maintenance. Taiwan has
33
 體質，再選擇適合自己的「溫補」、「涼補」或 酸氫鈉泉等養生設施，並有健康管理師駐點，提供
「平補」方式，順時養生，自然有好元氣。 諮詢，規劃理念考量住戶的養生需求及方便親友探
王靜瓊也說，傳統中醫理論認為，人之所以 望兼旅宿，符合重視親情的社會文化。
生病，會受到內、外在環境及遺傳的影響，例如 桃園龜山的長庚養生文化村（以下簡稱養生
夏天暑氣逼人，身體要降溫禦熱，就適合飲用性 村），招收60歲以上的健康、亞健康及失能長者
涼的青草茶；冬天天冷，身體為禦寒就有吃薑母 入住。樂齡宅建在幽靜山林間，四周步道有櫻花
鴨、羊肉爐、麻油雞等立冬進補。 樹、落雨松環繞，環境宜人，並提供多元的生活
課程，豐富長者的生活。養生村管理部主任杜素
觀光醫療新趨勢
珍說，以往長者避談的生死議題、遺產規劃、安
台灣東部重要的醫學中心花蓮慈濟醫院（以 寧醫療，現在是熱門的講座課程。
下簡稱花慈），是幹細胞治療再生的醫學重鎮， 養生村還規劃交通車，接送住民到長庚醫院
巴金森DBS深部腦刺激術、複雜性排尿障礙治療 就醫、家樂福購物，「有四成住民是『海歸』華
等，也是醫療服務強項，屢吸引海外病友遠道接 人，另有2,000人排隊等候入住。」杜素珍說。
受治療。 曾長期旅居美、中，四年前偕妻返台入住養生
今（2024）年花慈與花蓮秧悅美地度假酒店 村的65歲馮先生，太鼓班下課後受訪：「這裡的
合作，推出國際觀光醫療方案，長期醫療的病患 醫療品質好，生活方便、同學們相處和諧，比想
與家屬可住在飯店休養，享受花蓮的好山水，需 像中來得好。」
要治療、回診時由專車接送往返醫院，讓國際旅 「醫療服務，是建立在品牌與信任之上。」洪
客來到台灣接受高品質醫療後，能入住優質度假 子仁說。
村，「不用住病房，也能治療兼養生」。 休閒結合醫療，是新興的旅遊風潮。台灣擁有
新光集團結合新光醫療資源，在板橋都會區打 豐沛的自然生態與人文底蘊，醫界累積豐富的醫療
造「新光新板傑仕堡」全齡養生宅，推出短租型飯 經驗，你可以安排台灣醫療觀光行，在旅程中體驗
店、長住型全齡養生宅，以及健檢與坐月子中心。 高品質的健檢、醫美……或接受專業的醫療照護，
傑仕堡董事長呂炳賢說，全齡養生宅有岩盤浴、碳 在迤邐的山海風光中療癒身心靈。 l

養生村的太鼓班結業，住民們賣力擊鼓，渾身是勁。（林格立攝） 養生村的住民學習拉二胡。（林格立攝）
Residents of the Chang Gung Health and Culture Village put their all Health and Culture Village residents learning to play the erhu
into pounding the drums in this taiko class, and leave the session filled (a two-stringed Chinese fiddle). (photo by Jimmy Lin)
with energy. (photo by Jimmy Lin)

34
well-known hot springs at locations such as Beitou in convenient, and all of us residents get along well, so it’s
Taipei City, and Jiaoxi and Su’ao in Yilan County. even better than I imagined.”
TCM emphasizes changing with the seasons and Alex Hung states: “Healthcare services are built on
choosing a healthy diet suited to each part of the year. In brand identity and trust.”
spring, food should “nourish the liver”; in summer, one Combining recreation with medical treatment is an
should eat things that “clear dampness” and “dissipate emerging trend in the tourism sector. Taiwan has a rich
heat”; in autumn it is best to consume foods that “nourish natural environment and a strong cultural foundation,
the lungs” and “moisten dryness”; while in winter, tonic and the medical community is highly experienced. You
foods like ginger duck in rice wine, mutton hotpot, and can arrange for a medical tourism visit to Taiwan and as
sesame oil chicken are taken to keep warm. Su adds that you travel you can also experience high-quality health
people can first have their individual physical condition checks, cosmetic surgery, or specialized medical care,
determined by a TCM doctor and then, based on this as- healing your mind and body amid beautiful scenery. l
sessment, choose tonic foods with “warming,” “cooling,” (Mei Kuo/photos by Kent Chuang/tr. by Phil Newell)
or “balanced” properties to maintain their health in accor-
dance with the seasons. In this way one can stay healthy
naturally.
A new trend of medical tourism
The Hualien Tzu Chi Hospital, a major medical center
in Eastern Taiwan, is a bastion of stem cell therapy and
regenerative medicine as well as other specialties, and at-
tracts many patients to come to Taiwan for treatment.
This year Tzu Chi began working with the Gaeavilla
Resort in Hualien to promote an international tourism and
healthcare plan. Patients undergoing long-term therapy
can stay in the hotel with their families and enjoy Hualien’s
beautiful scenery, and when they need treatment or follow-
up appointments, shuttle vehicles will take them to the
hospital and back. In this way international travelers can
come to Taiwan and receive high-quality healthcare while
staying at a high-end resort rather than in a hospital ward.
The Chang Gung Health and Culture Village in Tao-
yuan’s Guishan District welcomes elderly people who are
healthy, in suboptimal health, or disabled. The residences
are built in a tranquil hillside forest.
The Health and Culture Village offers transportation to
take residents to Chang Gung Memorial Hospital for med-
ical care or to Carrefour for shopping. “Forty percent of the
residents are ROC citizens who previously lived overseas,
and there are 2,000 people on the waiting list to move in,”
says Tu Su-chen, director of the Management Department.
We interview a Mr. Feng, age 65, who lived for many
years in the US and China and who came back to Taiwan
with his wife four years ago to live in the Health and 長庚養生文化村種植十萬棵樹木，冬天落羽松轉紅，吸引遊客
Culture Village. Having just finished a taiko drum class, 前來賞景拍照。（林格立攝）
The grounds of Chang Gung Health and Culture Village are
he tells us: “The quality of healthcare here is high, life is planted with 100,000 trees. When the bald cypress trees turn
red in winter, many visitors come to admire the scenery and take
photographs. (photo by Jimmy Lin)

35
 封 面
故 事
COVER
STORY

在台灣除了透過課堂，團隊活動、出外旅遊等都是增進中文能力的好方法。（國立台灣師範大學提供）
In addition to language lessons, local tours and hobby groups can help improve our Chinese. (courtesy of NTNU)

36
 －
語
言
學
習
－
瑞典籍的Lukas來台灣學華語沒多久時，來到手搖飲料店，想買一杯奶茶
喝，排隊時不斷用中文默念：「一杯珍珠奶茶，謝謝。」沒多久後輪到他，完
整無誤地說出練習許久的中文後，正以為順利完成點餐，迎接他的是店員笑著
說：「甜度？冰塊？」讓Lukas一時張口結舌，為之語塞。

L ukas Engström is a Swedish national based in Taiwan. Shortly after he

started to learn Mandarin Chinese here, he visited a soft drinks bar to
buy a cup of pearl milk tea. While in the queue, he kept repeating to himself
the Chinese phrases he had to say to the staff. When at last he gave the order
in impeccable Mandarin, he thought all was well, but he was completely non-
plussed when the smiling staff shot out these questions in truncated Chinese:
“How sweet would you like it? How much ice?”

一 場 沒 有
終 點 的 旅 行
台 灣 語 言 學 習 L o n g S t a y

Learning Huayu in Taiwan

—A Journey of Boundless Possibilities
文•李雨莘 圖•林旻萱 版面設計•馬英凱

37
 學中文的外國人被台灣獨有用詞嚇到的故事還 輔助，因此讓一些不通曉英文的店員們雖然想幫
不只這一樁，「『加熱』、『我要拿包裹』這些 忙，又不知該從何幫起，「但我發現會說華語之
都是我來台灣後才學會的，第一次聽到的時候想 後，她們現在都會主動來幫我。」金艾芸說。產
說那是什麼。」家鄉在南韓的金艾芸，和我們說 生如此明顯變化，除了日常生活中的練習，在語
起她剛來台灣時，因中文不熟練所遇到的困難。 言中心的所學也為她打下良好基礎。
翻開她就讀的學校──國立台灣師範大學國語
在台灣沉浸式學華語
教學中心使用的當代中文系列教材，可以看到台
大學時期她因為喜歡偶像明星和偶像劇，曾在 灣人日常生活中使用頻率較高的單字和句式，以
大學裡上過中文課。「但我們那時候學的文法和 及針對非母語人士在台灣可能面臨的情境所設計
單字，在生活上比較難使用到。」金艾芸說。 的對話，例如，初來乍到台灣時，在機場馬上可
所以當初來台展開新生活時，便發現溝通上的 以使用的接機問候語；在夜市想吃什麼時，萬用
影響，尤其現職為主婦的她，在超市買菜時， 的「我想要一份......」
遇到不會說的中文單字，只能靠英文和肢體語言 國立台灣師範大學國語教學中心學務組組長方

金艾芸（左）和張露思（右）
在語言中心除了學中文，也學
習古箏。
At their language school,
Ayun Kim (left) and Supitcha
Saiviroonporn (right) not only
studied Mandarin, but also
learned to play the guzheng
(a Chinese plucked zither).

These are not the only turns of phrase that befuddle
Mandarin learners in Taiwan. “It was only after I came to
Taiwan that I learned expressions like ‘jia re’ [heat it up] and
‘wo yao na baoguo’ [I’d like to collect my parcel].” Ayun Kim,
from South Korea, shares with us the language-related
troubles she encountered during her early days in Taiwan.
Immersive learning
Before she came to Taiwan, Kim had taken Chinese lan-
guage lessons at university. “But the grammar and vocab-
ulary we learned at that time aren’t actually very useful in
daily life,” she says.
When she moved to Taiwan to start a new chapter in
her life, she found it hard to communicate with locals.
At supermarkets, she had to resort to English and ges-
tures whenever her limited Chinese failed her. Some
staff members wanted to help but were hampered be-
cause they didn’t understand English. “Now that they
know I can speak Mandarin well, they all come and
offer to help,” Kim says. She owes this drastic change to
daily practice and to the “Huayu” (Mandarin Chinese)
lessons she took in Taiwan.
Kim enrolled in the Mandarin Training Center (MTC)

38
 淑華表示，掌握基礎對話能力後，老師也會
靠著旅遊讓華語更進步
鼓勵學生前往可以實際運用的場合，例如：
夜市、市場等，因為透過這樣的練習，才有 「因為泰國很多人推薦來這裏唸書、旅遊，所
機會讓學生直接應付「台式」狀況題。 以我來台灣。」來自泰國、目標在台灣的研究所
線上課程雖已是學習常態之一，但「沉浸 進修物理治療的張露思，因為發現無法輕鬆開口
式學習」仍是多數外國學生學習語言的首 說華語，所以先到語言中心學習。
選。 「一個月我就發現改變很多。」她說，比起在
台灣華語教育資源中心統計，近年來台就 泰國一年半的課程，在台灣短時間內就讓她明顯
讀華語文中心的外國學生人數逐年升高，雖 感受到華語能力的進步。
因疫情影響曾短暫下滑，趨緩後又迅速回升 除了課程的幫助，課餘時間前往台灣各地旅
至一年30,000多人，另外，除了專業華語和考 遊，也讓張露思的華語更加流利。
照課程，也出現選擇文化體驗及校外參訪等 說起曾到過的地方，她如數家珍，更表示學會
非典型方式來學習華語的趨勢。 中文對旅行很有幫助，「因為我喜歡去一些推薦

at National Taiwan Normal University (NTNU).
The Huayu textbooks she studied there put to-
gether words and sentences that locals often use in
daily life, as well as the types of conversation that
non-native speakers in Taiwan may find themselves
having to engage in. Tess Fang, head of the Cur-
riculum and Teaching Division at the MTC, tells
us that her colleagues encourage the students to
visit places where they can put into practice what
they’ve studied in class. Only through these prac-
tical opportunities can they learn to marshal their
linguistic resources to handle peculiarly Taiwanese
situations.
Online tuition has become a norm these days, but
most language students from abroad continue to pre-
fer “immersive leaning.” Statistics from the Taiwan
Mandarin Educational Resources Center show that
there has been an increase every year in the number
of people coming to Taiwan to study Huayu; in ad-
dition to learning Chinese for specific purposes and
preparing for language tests, some choose to pick up
the language in less formal ways, such as by attending
cultural events or visiting places of interest.
Learning through travel
“I came to Taiwan because many Thai people rec-
ommend coming here for st udy and travel,” says

經過反覆練習，如今書寫正體字對張露思來說
已非難事。
Thanks to her diligence, Supitcha Saiviroonporn
is able to write traditional Chinese characters
without difficulty.

39
 文沒有介紹過的地方，所以學會中文後，讓我更
能走進巷弄裡，看見其他泰國人沒看見的東西，
甚至在和台灣人聊天的過程中，認識更多不知道
的人事物。」
即使已經去過這麼多城市、景點，但張露思的
台灣旅行計畫還沒結束，她透露，之後還想學騎
摩托車，去更多之前靠著火車旅行時，沒有到達
的地方。

隨波逐流的語言long stay

至於被飲料店繁多選項「震撼教育」的
Lukas，學中文則讓他從而成為一位介紹台灣的
YouTuber。
2018年，他以本名「Lukas Engström」開設
YouTube頻道，以外國人視角，詳細介紹若想拜
訪象山、三貂嶺、平溪等景點，該如何使用大眾
交通工具前往，以及遊玩路徑等。這系列的影片
因為提供旅客實際會碰上的問題解方，而受許多
在台灣各大專院校的華語文教學中心，除了有 人喜愛。
課堂內容，還有不同的活動可以體驗。（台師
大國語教學中心提供） 但Lukas透露，拍攝這些影片的原始目的，是
The Chinese language schools affiliated with 在離開台灣前留念用的，而且他起初並沒有意識
Taiwanese universities not only offer robust language
lessons but also host immersive cultural activities. 到自己其實很喜歡台灣。
(courtesy of NTNU Mandarin Training Center)
十多年前，Lukas以交換學生身分來到台灣，
因為大學老師一句「不用花時間學說中文」，而

外國學生可以透過選修多
元課程，學習古箏、書
法、歷史、文學、台語等
內容。
Language students in
Taiwan are offered a wide
range of courses to choose
from, such as guzheng,
calligraphy, history, literature,
and Taiwanese.

40
Supitcha Saiviroonporn, who plans to pursue post-
graduate studies in physiotherapy in Taiwan. To be
able to speak Mandarin more fluently, she first en-
rolled in a local language school.
Prior to her new adventure, Saiviroonporn had
spent a year and a half learning Chinese in Thailand,
but in Taiwan she feels that her Mandarin has im-
proved by leaps and bounds within a very short space
of time. In addition to taking Huayu lessons, Saivi-
roonporn travels to various local places in her free
time, which helps enhance her language skills. Being
able to speak Mandarin, she says, has enriched her ex-
perience as a tourist. “It enables me to see things that
other Thai people haven’t spotted. I also get to expand
my knowledge by chatting with local people.”
Growing fond of Taiwan
For Lukas Engström, the experience of learning
Mandarin in Taiwan led him to become a successful
YouTuber. In 2018 he launched a YouTube channel
under his real name, introducing tourist attractions in
Taiwan from the perspective of a foreign visitor. His
videos provide useful information, such as details of
public transport and travel routes. Offering practi-
cal solutions to challenges that tourists may stumble
upon, the series has proved very popular.
Engström tells us that these videos were originally
外國學生共組龍舟隊參加比
賽，是台師大國語教學中心每
年重要活動之一。（國立台灣
師範大學提供）
Each year, foreign students at
NTNU form a team to compete
in dragon-boat races. This is
a major event for the MTC.
(courtesy of NTNU)
intended as a record of his days in Taiwan, something
to remember the place by. He first came to the island
more than a decade ago as an exchange student. At the
time he didn’t devote himself to learning Chinese, and
he returned to Sweden as soon as the semester was
over. It was actually because of his Taiwanese girl-
friend, rather than because he liked Taiwan, that he
came back here after a year’s interval and started his
Huayu course at the MTC.
Looking back on his language classes, his holidays
in Taiwan, and his motivations for learning Chinese,
Engström says: “I was basically just following my
friends. I did whatever they recommended me to do.”
He had planned to spend one year learning Mandarin,
but for various reasons he extended his courses again
and again. “Back then, I felt that Taiwan was super
boring,” he says with a grin.
Engström remained lukewarm about Taiwan until
five years ago, when he decided to move back to Swe-
den. He bought a GoPro camera to film his favorite
places, sharing his videos with his dragon-boat team-
mates at NTNU. “I had spent more than five years in
Taiwan, quite a lot longer than most other foreigners.
People had given me many suggestions on places to
visit and foods to try.” With his camera, he revisited
the places he and his friends had been to. It was on
41
沒有太認真學習華語，學期結束後就返回瑞典，
隔一年重返台灣、赴師大國語教學中心學華語，
也單純因為當時交了一個台灣女友。
回憶當時選課、去哪玩或學中文的原因，
Lukas表示，「基本上就是跟著朋友，他們推薦
什麼我就做什麼。」連原定一年學華語的旅程，
也因為其他原因不斷延長再延長。不過，無形中
不僅讓他累積出一口流利台灣腔中文，也隨著朋
友們的腳步，體驗這塊土地上的各種人文風土。
結束兩年半的國語教學中心課程後，Lukas開
始平日兼差工作，閒時在家裡打電動的規律生
活，他笑說：「我那時候覺得台灣超無聊。」
直到五年前的某一天，Lukas下定決心要回瑞
典時，買了一台GoPro，希望可以把他在台灣最
喜歡的地方透過影片記錄下來，同時也提供給
在師大龍舟隊認識的朋友參考，「因為我留在台
灣五年多，比起一般外國人來說久很多，大家都
會要我推薦哪裡好玩，或有什麼好吃。」帶著相
機，他重遊五年間他與朋友們曾去過的地方，也
才逐漸意識到，自己原來這麼喜歡台灣。
而讓他決定留在台灣的臨門一腳，是透過朋友
得知「外國人介紹台灣」系列中的「茶壺山」影
42
片，上架兩週便累積了兩萬多點閱率，讓Lukas
嚇一跳，但使他更驚訝的，是底下台灣人的留
言，他說：「很多人留言『原來上面風景這麼
美！』，我就想說：『你怎麼會沒去過？這是我
最喜歡的地方耶。』」自此，他決定成為一位介
紹台灣的YouTuber，long stay之旅也無限展延。
盡情享受每一天的夏令營
「外國人介紹台灣系列」中，L u k a s透過鏡
頭，以英文口說，搭配中文字幕，帶觀眾飽覽台
灣各地美景，兩年內足跡遍佈全台各地；近期影
片，則開始向外國人介紹來台前的準備、必知文
化差異等，以及透過與在台外國人對談，介紹更
Lukas的YouTube頻道《外國人介紹台灣》
以愛心外框的台灣國旗作為logo。
Lukas Engström cropped the Taiwanese national
flag into a heart shape for the profile picture of
his “Lukas in Taiwan” YouTube channel.
多不同面向的台灣。
另外，他也與歐盟在台協會合作，邀請歐盟各
會員國駐台辦事處的處長們介紹他們母國文化、
風土，更分享他們對台灣的印象，讓許多台灣觀
眾在更加認識歐盟各國的同時，也能聽到外國人
對台灣最真實、直接的評價。
若想聽聽Lukas流利的中文，則可以收看他分
享在台點滴的系列影片。語句順暢，連口音都
很「台」，讓我們不禁想問究竟要學多久時間，
 十年前參與師大龍舟隊，讓Lukas交到許多朋友，也留下珍貴回憶。
Joining the dragon-boat team at NTNU a decade ago helped Engström make
many friends. He looks back on the experience with a lot of pleasure.

these journeys that he realized how much he actually

liked Taiwan.
Engström finally made up his mind to stay put
when his friends told him that his video on New
Taipei’s Teapot Mountain—part of his “Lukas in
Taiwan” YouTube channel—had attracted more than
20,000 hits within just two weeks of being uploaded.
Even more surprising to him were the comments
left by his Taiwanese admirers. “Many people said
‘I didn’t know it was so beautiful up there!’ And I
thought: ‘How come you’ve never been there? It’s my
favorite place!’” At that moment, he lighted upon the
idea of becoming a dedicated YouTuber specializing in 瑞芳茶壺山是Lukas在台灣最喜歡的景點。（Lukas提供）
Engström’s favorite place in Taiwan is Teapot Mountain, located
Taiwanese topics. in New Taipei’s Ruifang District. (courtesy of Lukas Engström)
Enjoy every day here
For his channel, Engström travels the length and
breadth of Taiwan to introduce his audience to fasci-
nating places. His more recent videos provide guid- speaking Mandarin, check out his series of videos
ance to foreigners on how to prepare for their visits to sharing snippets of his life in Taiwan. How long does
Taiwan and on important cultural differences; he has it take for a learner to attain his level of Chinese? Eng-
also conducted interviews with foreigners in Taiwan ström says that if we were to learn the language in Tai-
in order to present the island from a greater variety of wan, it would take just a year or two before we could
viewpoints. manage most daily scenarios.
In addition, Engström has collaborated with the Eu- He further points out that the vocabulary and con-
ropean Economic and Trade Office in Taiwan, inviting versations taught in Taiwan’s Huayu language schools
representatives from EU countries to introduce the can not only be easily applied to everyday circum-
cultures and customs of their homelands, and their stances, but also help foreigners experience an authen-
impressions of Taiwan. If you wish to hear Engström tic version of Taiwan. “Taiwan is so much more than

43
 台灣地形地貌綺麗多變，一日間便能從都市來到鄉村、從鄉村玩到山林，讓
許多外國人都為之讚嘆。（莊坤儒攝）
Taiwan’s compact size and varied terrain make it easy to visit bustling cities, rural
communities and verdant mountains in a single day. (photo by Kent Chuang)

才能把中文說到他這個程度？他表示，大部分人 外國人都愛喝美式咖啡，所以只要看到西方臉孔
以為會需要五年才能真正使用中文，「但其實在 就會自動遞上美式，即便他說了很清楚的「我想
台灣學中文的話，一年差不多就夠了；一年到兩 要一杯冰拿鐵」，都還是會收到熱美式，這樣的
年，生活會遇到的多數狀況也都能應對。」 小故事是他十多年來在台灣生活裡時常發生的，
他更指出，這點和他過去在瑞典的學習經驗相 也是他和朋友們在台灣的「小困擾」，「台灣人
差甚遠。高中時期他因為加分需求，曾上過兩年 真的很友善，也很熱心，但有時候真的想太多
的德文、西語課，但當時課本是根據瑞典當地來 了。」說到這，Lukas不禁莞爾。
設計內容，使他很難將課堂所學實際運用於生活 也因為台灣人這樣的「好客」，他表示自己從
中；但在台灣的語言中心學到的單字、對話，不 不稱呼台灣為「家」，「感覺自己是在一個13年
僅能真正用於日常中，還能幫助外國人體驗真正 的夏令營，在這裡的每一天都是很放鬆的，所以
的台灣，「台灣不是只有台北，也不是只有捷運 才會想一直待在這。」他說。
線上的那些景點」，尤其在他考過機車駕照後， 至於什麼時候回瑞典，L u k a s沒有確定的答
去到更多不為多數人所知的地點。 案，並說：「我把每一年都當作最後一年在過，
不過，即使已經把中文說得很清楚，還是會有 抱著『如果今年是我在台灣的最後一年，我會
一些台灣人誤以為他們不會說中文，而發生一些 做什麼呢？』的心態，盡全力享受台灣。」台灣
「貼心」小故事。他分享，部分超商店員會認為 long stay，未完待續。 l

44
just Taipei or the tourist attractions along the metro
lines.” Since he obtained his scooter license, he has
been able to visit even more places unknown to most
tourists.
However, even with perfect Mandarin pronun-
ciation, foreigners in Taiwan might find themselves
misunderstood by locals who assume they can’t speak
Chinese. Engström tells us that some convenience
store staff here seem to think that all foreigners like
Americano coffee, so they automatically make a cup of
Americano when they see a Western face—even if you
tell them clearly in Mandarin that you want iced latte.
Such misunderstandings have happened quite often
during his time in Taiwan in the last decade or so.
“Taiwanese people are really very friendly and eager
to help, but they sometimes jump to conclusions,” says
Engström with a smile.
Feeling that he’s a welcome “guest,” Engström re-
frains from calling Taiwan “home.” “It’s as if I’ve been
in a summer camp for 13 years. I feel very relaxed here
every day—that’s why I don’t feel like leaving,” he says.
Engström doesn’t know when or if he’s going back
to Sweden. “I think of every year I spend in Taiwan as
my final year here. I ask myself: ‘If this is indeed my
last year in Taiwan, what will I do?’ With this question
always in mind, I try to enjoy Taiwan to the fullest.” l
(Cindy Li/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
tr. by Brandon Yen)

師大夜市高掛起的萬國旗，與街道上熙攘的多元面孔，相互輝映。
Shida Night Market is decked with festive bunting comprising flags of different countries. The
decorations resonate with the international faces we often come across here.

45
 好讀
《在自己的城市旅行：都市偵探李
月 清志台灣建築迷走》 ◎ 李清志

我們到員林看穀倉、到涵碧樓吹風、到台東看教堂，抑或是就在
自己居住的城市中原來都不曾去探訪的校舍或建築，每到一個目
的地的過程都是驚喜。
———— 米力（視覺設計師）

銜環報恩，旅行間得之於建築友人的饋贈，李清志報之以文字桃
李，一步一腳印，踩踏出一字一句，彷彿化身精衛鳥銜石填海，
弭平了建築與建築讀物晦澀難懂不親民的落差。
是一趟巡覽好文的旅程，
更是一回賞讀美篇的心靈停駐……
也是一段遍閱佳構的遨遊，

———— 謝佩霓（藝評家、作家）

至台 灣 建 築 界 也 沒 有 人 注 意 到 這
被遺忘在鄉野的大師
作品 座 教 堂，直 到19 8 6 年 建 築 師 波 姆

獲得普立茲克建築獎，大家才開始

在台南鄉下地區的田野間旅行， 注意到這位德國建築師，然後才發

地平線上赫然出現金字塔狀的尖 現 他 在台 灣 竟 然 有 一 座 教 堂 建 築

塔，有 如某種 紀念性的建築，塔 頂 作品。

上矗立著十字架，原來是一座奇特 菁寮聖十字架天主堂是波 姆在

的 天 主 教 堂／菁 寮 聖 十 字 架 天 主 海外的第一件建築作品，同時也是

堂。 台 灣 第 一 座 普 利 茲 克 建 築 獎得 主

六十 年 前 天 主 教 會 聘 請 德 國 建 的作品。建築師波姆的建築作品多

築師波姆（Gottfried Böhm）設計 半是在德國境內，他可說是出身於

這座台南鄉間的教堂；因為地處偏 建築師世家，他的父親、祖父都是

僻，並 沒有 引起 太多人 的注 意，甚 建 築師，後來兒子也 繼 承衣缽，成

 書名： 《在自己的城市旅行：都市

偵探李清志台灣建築迷走》

作者：李清志

菁寮聖十字架天主堂（大塊文化提供，李清志攝） 頁數：311頁 定價：480元

出版時間：2023年12月

出版：大塊文化

為執業建築師。波姆的父親也是設 架，代 表 著 基督的救 贖；入口鐘 塔

計傳統天主教堂的建築師，但是波 上 是風向雞，代表著警醒；聖洗堂

姆走的卻是現代主義的建築路線； 上的尖塔是鴿 子，代 表著聖靈；而

他 受 到 密 斯·凡· 德 羅 與 華 特·葛 羅 聖體室上方尖塔則是王冠，象徵著 而是從當時黑白照片所呈現，當地

培斯影響很大，因此建築手法與包 基督的王權。 農民用四支大竹竿，架起的臨時茅
浩斯學院接近，但是他的建築設計 六十 年 前 在台 南 鄉 下 出 現 這 樣 草亭子，所得到的設計靈感。
簡單、幾何，卻充滿 著 某 種 古典紀 一 座 金 屬 金 字 塔 的 教 堂，對 於 當 整個教堂內部設計也頗富巧思，
念性。 地農民來說，可說是非常前衛與突 聖洗堂內的受洗池，銅鑄的頂蓋呈
菁 寮 聖 十 字 教 堂 就 是 一座 幾 何 兀，當年還有居民認為風水不好等 現圓錐型，也是建築師波姆精心設
塊 體 構 成 的 教 堂，主 會 堂 呈 現 巨 等。有趣的是，建築師波 姆其實並 計，並請德 國工匠打造，質 感非常
大金字塔狀，旁邊附屬的尖塔則呈 未來過台灣，他依據在台灣天主教 厚實，剛好呼應 教 堂的尖 塔。為了
現圓錐型，尖塔表面是鋁板包覆， 會修士所提供的現場照片，直接在 宣教上的方便，天主教會也入境隨
在陽光照耀之下閃閃發亮！尖塔上 德國設計；金字塔狀的會堂屋頂， 俗，在會堂中放置中國傳統香爐燒
有幾個象徵物，主會堂頂端是十字 其實並不是為了仿效埃及金字塔， 香，（聖 經中 焚香 代 表 著 禱 告，香

49
 築 」，人 們 進 到 火 車 車 廂，就像 是

進入一棟建築內，可以舒服地躺臥

沙發、吃便當喝咖啡，甚至睡 覺 休

息。

我們搭乘列車，隨便吃吃地方風

味的鐵道便當，就已經覺得很享受

了！而搭乘美食列車更是鐵道旅行

極致的體 驗；試想搭乘料理餐車，

一邊享受美食，一邊欣賞窗外的景

致，有如看3D電影一般，真的是一

種超現實的餐飲經驗！

日本 西 武 鐵 道 幾 年 前 特 別 邀 請

『鳴日廚房』料理列車（大塊文化提供，李清志攝）
當紅建築師隈研吾，設計建造了一

列美食料理餐車，由東京都內開往

秩 父 車 站，整 列 車 只 有 5 2 席 的 座
煙繚繞升上天庭，有如禱告被上帝 異文化的交流影響，只要花點心思 位，因 此 稱 作 是「5 2 席 的至 福」，
垂 聽），會堂側邊 甚至設有祖宗牌 去觀察與體會，就可以找到許多令 整列車有四節車廂，兩節車廂是餐
位，代表 天主教也是重視「慎 終 追 人意想不到的事物！ 廳 座席，一節是主廚料理的廚房，
遠」的觀念。 另一節則是活動用廣場車廂。
我們到菁寮天主堂參訪，受到法 料理列車的絕美旅行 沿線窗外風景是山林田野，桌上
國神父呂天恩的熱誠接待，他帶我 的法式料理，則是主廚利用沿線田
們爬上教堂屋頂平台，從不同的角 雖然已經開放日韓觀光，但是我 野所出產的農作物，料理出的美味
度觀看教堂建築，特別是金屬尖塔 還是十分保守謹慎，不敢貿然出國 珍饈，看著窗外的田野，品嚐舌尖
的細節，從 屋頂觀看 特別清 楚；他 旅 行，很多人 問 我：「會 不會 急 著 上 的 鮮 美，隈 研 吾 大 師 設 計 的 空
還帶大家從密道入口，進入金字塔 想出國？」我 發現我竟然一點都沒 間，播放 著優美的音樂，讓乘客五
屋頂內部，觀看 教堂建築結構。看 有急著想出國的感覺，因為這幾年 感都得到滿足。
著 穿 著 中 世 紀 修士 服 裝 的 神 父 帶 在台灣旅行探險，發現台灣也有許 我 也 曾 經 搭 乘 日 本海 沿 岸 行 駛
著大家爬上爬下，感覺非常有趣！ 多令人驚豔的旅遊地點與方式，即 的「雪月花 觀 光 列車」，這部 列車
我們漫步在田間小徑，從不同的 使不出國，我也可以找到讓自己心 設計非常亮眼，紅色的車身有著賞
角度觀看教堂尖塔，感覺依舊十分 靈沉澱平靜的地方，或是讓自己身 景的玻璃天窗，行駛在白色的雪地
超現實，總覺得這裡好像不是在台 心得到療癒的旅行方式。 上，顯得 格 外的顯眼。車上供 應米
灣，加上接 待我們的是外國神父， 我是個鐵道迷，旅行喜歡搭乘火 其林主廚預備的多層高級便當，設
有一種「偽出國」的奇異感受。 車，多年來搭遍歐美日的多種特色 計精美的菜色，色香味 俱 全，讓 人
台灣是個奇妙的國度，總有許多 列車，感覺 火車 就像 是「移動的建 享受鐵道旅行的極致享受。

50
 台灣現在也有自己的美食 列車 無 骨 牛 小 排、現 流 胭 脂 蝦 搭 配 宜 花錢去體驗還不見得訂的到，只好

「鳴日廚房 The Moving Kitchen 蘭金棗、香烤 花椰菜，貢寮九孔佐 出國去搭別人的料理餐車（日本的

」，由建 築設 計師邱博 文 所設 計， 昆布搭配鮮筍，以及現擠黃金栗子 美食列車還比較好訂，而且種類又

車 廂 設 計 非 常 雅 緻，以 黑 色 為 基 奶油 生乳 捲，當然也有 紅白酒，咖 多）。

底，展現出一種沈穩奢華的感受， 啡等。 期待 台鐵可以增加這類頂級 旅

不 愧 是台 灣 最 頂 級 的 豪 華 美 食 列 雖然鳴日號 列車是由老 舊 莒光 程的班次，甚至開發設計出更多休

車，覺 得「鳴 日廚房」完 全不 輸日 號車廂改造，而且台灣鐵道是屬於 閒旅遊的特色列車，否則我們想要

本「雪 月 花 」、「5 2 席 的 至 福 」等 窄軌規格，因此車輛行駛不免較為 體驗料理列車的美好享受，都只能

美 食 列 車，最 近 還 得 到 2 0 2 2日本 搖晃，但 是設計師顧 慮 周全，餐桌 去國外搭別人的美食列車，實在是

Good Design Award大獎、2022 椅不僅不會傾倒，連桌上的高腳酒 很可惜！

台北 設 計 獎，甚 至 2 0 2 2 台北 老 屋 杯、咖 啡 杯，也 有 止 滑 墊，完 全不

新生大獎等殊榮。 怕翻倒溢出，可以放心使用水晶玻 少年卡夫卡的圖書館

列車料理由晶華飯店主廚負責， 璃杯等高級食器。

將在地元素融入餐食，結合窗外山 「鳴日廚房」料理 餐車，讓 我們 村 上 春 樹 小 說「 海 邊 的 卡 夫

海景緻，為旅客提供優質的用餐體 看見台灣設計力與美食力的結合， 卡」，小說中的主 人翁 搭乘夜間巴
驗。當我們看著窗外的龜山島、蘭 孕育出頂級的奢華旅行，只可惜這 士，從東京鬧區逃到位於四國的高
陽平原時，餐桌正端上火候適當的 樣的鐵道班次實在太少，很多人想 松市，那裡是遠離日本社會核心區

的偏遠後山，少年人在高松市無處

可去，只能每天窩 在圖書 館 裡，圖

書 館 成 為了少 年人 蛻 變 成 堅 強 成

熟大人的重要場所。

「海邊的卡夫卡」小說中的圖書

館經 驗，多少也反映了少年村上春

樹 當 年 在 神戶圖 書 館 中 閱 讀 的 記

憶。圖書 館的記憶與經 驗，對一 位

少年影響之大，以至於村上春樹的

小說中，都會出現圖書 館的身影，

在 他 的 小 說「世 界 末 日 與 冷 酷 異

境」中，就有一座儲存夢境的圖書

館，圖書 館 的書 架 上，不是 一本一

本的書，而是一顆顆獸的頭骨，而

夢境就是儲存在獸骨中，必須要靠

稱 為「 夢 讀」的人，才可以 閱 讀 出

獸骨裡的夢境內容。

桃園總圖新館（大塊文化提供，李清志攝）

51
 雖然進入了數位時代，紙本書籍 到個人寧 靜、舒 適的閱 讀 角落，加 而喜愛上閱讀的優良公共建築。

逐漸式微，原本大家以為圖書館應 上桃園總圖藏書之豐富，也令人驚

該日漸消失，全部變成網路上的數 訝，我就找到許多很棒的設計藝術 台北皮蛋豆腐

位圖書 館；可是一直到二十一世紀 類書 籍；拿一本漂亮的設計專書，

的 今 天，全 世 界 竟 然 還 在 繼 續 建 坐在窗邊舒適的沙發椅上，好好享 花了十年的時間，這顆蛋終於誕

造圖書 館，特別是日本地區，持 續 受 寧 靜 閱 讀 的 樂 趣，就 好 像 在 咖 生了！
建造了許多漂亮的圖書 館，包括金 啡店一樣 舒服。正如「海 邊的卡夫 那天 荷 蘭 建 築 師 庫 哈 斯 親 臨 開
澤 的「海 之未 來」圖書 館，伊東 豊 卡」中 所 描 述 的 一 般，「坐 在 沙 發 幕酒會，為大家介紹這座台灣新世
雄設計的岐阜「大家的森林」圖書 望著四周時，發現這個閱覽室正是 紀的公共建築；這座非常前衛卻又
館，以及安藤忠雄在大阪所設計的 我長久以來想要尋找的地方，我真 親民的公共建築，即將成為台北最
「圖書 森林中之島」，而最 近早 稻 正 在 尋 找 這 樣 一 個 像 是世 界 凹 洞 受歡迎的表演藝術場所。
田也成立了村上春樹圖書館等。 似的安靜地方。」 一開始大家看 到台北演 藝中心
這 幾 年 台 灣 也 有 許 多城 市 都 設 過去的圖書館對於年輕人而言， 建 築，一定非常不習慣，因為這 座
立了自己城市的圖書 館，包括位於 只 是一 個K書中心，他們雖然去圖 劇 場 建 築 並非 傳 統 國 家 劇 院 般 的
樹林中的屏東縣立圖書館總館、大 書 館 搶 位子 讀 書，但 是 考 完 試 之 金碧輝煌、雕梁畫 棟，極盡華麗 之
廳 媲美五星級 飯 店的台南市立圖 後，就 再也不 要去圖書 館，也不 要 能事；反倒是走庶民美學的路線，
書 館 總 館、以 及 空 間 新 奇 的 高 雄 再讀書了，因為他們並沒有真正享 以簡單、效率為主，甚至故 意凸顯
市立圖書館總館，最近桃園總圖新 受到閱 讀的樂趣，對他們而言，讀 內部機械裝置，或以原始建築材質
館落成，也令人十分驚艷！ 書只為了考 試，是 一種 壓 力，毫 無 來呈現。
桃園總圖新館由郭自強 建築師 樂 趣 可 言；但 是 好 的 圖 書 館 空 間 建 築 整 體 也 不是 走 傳 統 宮 殿 式
與日本梓設計聯手設計，主要的概 卻可以吸引人，讓人想要待在裡面 建築風格，而是以不同塊體堆疊為
念 是「生 命 樹」，在圖 書 館 內 部 中 看書，感受閱讀的美 好，甚至成 為 主，因此有人嘲笑這 座建築 是「皮
央有一座圓錐玻璃天井，讓光線進 少年人 逃 避 混 亂 現 實 世 界 的 避 難 蛋豆腐」，不過荷蘭建築師對於這
入 室內，照亮整個圖書 館內部，同 所。 種嘲笑譏諷並不以為意，反倒覺得
時 採 光 井也 具備 著 自 然 通 風 的 功 一 座 民 主 進 步 的 城 市，都 應 該 很有趣！因為建築師庫哈斯（R e m
能，堪稱是環保節能的絕妙設計； 要 具 備 有 設 計 完 善、空 間 優 質 的 K o o l h a a s）本來就不是以傳統美
圖 書 館 內 部 動 線 也 呈 現 著所 謂 的 圖書 館，讓 所有的人，不論 是 有錢 學來設計建築的，他的建築設計反
「知識的螺旋」，讓 人以一種 螺旋 人或 是 窮 人，是 上 流 社 會 的人、或 而是以機能、城 市互動，以 及市民
狀的上升路徑，可以環視整個圖書 是中下階層的人，都可以自由地來 生活為主要的考量。
館的書架及閱讀空間。 到這個地方，好好地享受閱讀的樂 如果大家去看庫哈斯在波爾圖
我 覺 得 桃 園 總 圖 最 令人 感 到 開 趣，然後在這裡找到改變生命的契 （Porto）所設計的音樂廳，一定會
心的是，建築師特別將周邊靠窗明 機。 覺 得 這 座 建 築 怎 麼 好 像 是 一塊 巨
亮的地方，都規劃為個人閱讀的場 桃 園 總 圖 新 館 建 築，就 是 這 樣 大的石頭，但是這塊多邊石竟然被
所，你可以很容 易在圖書 館中，找 一座可以讓人享受閱讀的樂趣，進 評為是近代三大最重要的音樂廳，

52
而且原本不是很喜歡的城市居民，

也因為這 座音樂廳 創造出很棒的

城市廣場，而逐漸喜歡上這座公共

建築。

台 北 表 演 藝 術 中 心 也 是 如 此，

看 似 怪 異 的 建 築 其 實 容 納了三 個

大小形狀不一的表演廳，用以滿足

現代表演藝術的多元需求；而且這

座巨大的公共建築 位 於劍潭捷運

站與士林夜市之間，原本就是人潮

非常擁擠，動線非常複雜的地方；

因此建築師庫哈斯特別將表演 藝

術中心的底層抬高，成為一個大型

的半戶外廣場空間，等於為這個城

市 創造出一座 人群可以交 織 流 動

的 場 所。這 種 設 計 策 略 對 於 荷 蘭

建築師來說，可能是最擅長的事，

因為荷蘭也是地窄人稠、城市空間 台北表演藝術中心建築（大塊文化提供，李清志攝）

狹小，因此他們設計新的公共建築

時，常常也希望同時創造出城市新

的廣場空間。 台北 表 演 藝 術 中 心 應 該 是我 見 大教堂的世俗對照 組；一般而言，

對於平常不會去接觸表演 過，內部機能最為複雜的公共建築 它是一座紀念物，而且整體來說，
藝 術 活 動 的 一 般 民 眾，建 築 師 了！三個表演廳在裡面彼此可以合 它是中空的。」
特 別 還 設 計了一 條「參 觀 回 路 」 併連結、移動而變 化，有 如機械變 如果說球型建築 是一種革命性
（publicloooooop），那是一條直 形金剛一樣，如今懷胎十年終於完 的出現，那麼台北表演藝術中心的
接穿過這座複雜巨大建築的管子， 工誕 生，期間歷 經許多困難，真的 這 顆「皮 蛋」建 築，似乎也 宣 告 著
讓 民 眾可 以從 不 同 角 度 深 入 觀 察 很佩服OMA建築師事務所！ 新 世紀台北建築出現的革命性時
這 座 建 築，好 像 走 進 腸 子 裡 觀 看 建 築 師 庫 哈 斯 在 他 的 著 作「 譫 刻。過去那些附庸傳統官僚或頌讚
身體內部各個部位一般。人們走在 狂紐約」（Delirious New York） 宮廷美學的建築時代即將過去；強
「參 觀回路」裡，可以 透 過玻 璃 觀 中曾經 描寫193 9 年 紐 約 世界博覽 調 庶 民 美 學、城 市 生 活 的 建 築 時
看 劇 場 表 演，以 及 後 台 排 演 等 空 會的巨大球型建築，他說「在西方 代已經來到，我相信沒有多久的時
間，讓一般民眾雖然沒有買票入場 建築史上，球出現的時間大概都跟 間，人們會開始喜 歡 上 這 座「皮蛋
看表演，也可以藉此進入建築內部 革命的時刻相呼應。對於歐洲啟蒙 豆 腐」，這座演 藝中心也將成為台
一窺究竟。 運 動而言，它是世界的 擬 仿物，是 北最受歡迎的公共建築。

53
影像對話 PHOTO ESSAY

苗栗火旁龍（林民基）
Bombing the Dragon (Lin Minji)

火旁龍是苗栗客庄新春慶元宵的傳統民俗活動，祥龍穿梭炮陣，鑼鼓喧天，看起來就像神龍翱翔在雲霧般，藉以趨吉避邪、迎春納福。
On the fifteenth day of the Lunar New Year, Hakka communities in Miaoli County celebrate the Lantern Festival by “bombing the dragon.”
The dragon moves amidst exploding firecrackers and the thunderous sounds of drums and gongs, as if weaving its way through mists and
clouds. The event is intended to attract good fortune and ward off evil for the New Year.

54
 民俗與生活
《光華》攝影徵件
Readers’ Photos
—
年味台灣

Taiwanese Folk Culture:

The Lunar New Year
55
 賀新年（許承睿）
New Year Celebrations (Xu Chengrui)

宜蘭傳藝中心於農曆春節有舞獅團表演，靠舞者的動作表現出獅子神態，一般二人舞一頭獅，搭配鑼鼓的聲響，迎接熱鬧的新年；醒獅
逗趣的跑跳，演出活靈活現，獲得民眾的掌聲及喝采。
During the Lunar New Year holidays, there are lion-dance performances at the National Center for Traditional Arts in Yilan County. Each lion
is usually manipulated by two performers, whose movements in time with the rhythms of drums and gongs bring the animal to life, ushering in
the New Year in an energetic way. The viewers are charmed by the lion’s buoyant skips and leaps.

56
迪化年貨大街（張秀凰）
Dihua Street (Zhang Xiuhuang)

台北年貨大街是台灣最具代表性的年節活動，熱鬧的迪化街吸引辦年貨的民眾們前往大採購。
With shops selling all kinds of festive foods, Taipei’s Dihua Street fully embodies the spirit of the Lunar New Year. Customers visit this
vibrant street for their New Year shopping sprees.

書法家揮毫寫春聯（張秀凰）
Spring Couplets (Zhang Xiuhuang)

為了迎新年，書法家現場揮毫書寫春聯致贈給民眾。春聯的紅色代表喜氣，以書法及繪畫的形式呈現新春祝福，感受濃濃的年節味。
To celebrate the Lunar New Year, calligraphers come out into streets and plazas to write spring couplets, which they give away to the public.
Written on auspicious red paper, the couplets confer New Year blessings through words and visual imagery, conjuring up the festive mood.

57
 炊年糕（張利聰）
New Year’s Cakes (Zhang Licong)

過新年時，幾乎都準備甜粿、發粿、菜頭粿等食品，象徵新的一年吉祥如意。此時店家正忙著炊年糕，空氣中散發出甜甜的香氣。
Various kinds of glutinous rice cakes—plain, sweet, or made with radish—are consumed during the Lunar New Year holidays in order to
usher in prosperity and good fortune. Local niangao (new year’s cake) shops brim with a sweet smell in the festive season.

過香爐（林格立）
Talismans and Incense Burners (Jimmy Lin)

過香爐，也稱過火。民眾紛紛圍繞到香爐前參拜，將平安符過爐繞三圈，祈求神明加持保平安。
Members of the public gather round the incense burners at local temples. With talismans in their hands, they draw three circles through the
incense smoke above the burners, praying to the deities for protection.

58
蒸紅龜粿（王朝騰）
Red Tortoise Cakes (Wang Chaoteng)

習俗上，拜紅龜粿在祭祀後食用有「呷平安」的隱喻。紅龜粿不單只是好吃，更具有很多意義；紅色的外皮象徵著吉祥，粿的圓形則
是團圓和氣的象徵，並有長壽、吉祥、富貴的涵義。
Red tortoise cakes are prepared as ritual offerings. Consumed after the rituals, they are believed to have protective qualities. These
delicious cakes gather to themselves various symbolic meanings: the red color of the skin betokens auspiciousness, while the cakes’ round
shape symbolizes reunion, harmony, longevity, propitiousness, and wealth.

59
 飛龍在天（黃慧琴）
A Flying Dragon (Huang Huiqin)

鹿港的街道是最有年味的「花燈大道」，要騎著腳踏車才能邊騎邊欣賞。花燈以龍的造型懸吊在街道上，夜晚的光影燦爛，吸
引民眾參觀。
At the Lunar New Year, the streets of Changhua’s Lukang Township are decorated with festive lanterns. Come on a bike and slowly
take in the festive mood. This eye-catching dragon lantern is hung above a street, making the evening shine with colorful lights.

60
台味燈節（林格立）
The Lantern Festival (Jimmy Lin)

台南普濟殿外的 1,500 盞彩繪燈籠，懸掛在廟埕街區，一盞盞球形的燈籠都是在地居民想像的揮灑，是最「台灣味」的燈會。

The 1,500 ball-shaped lanterns hanging outside Tainan’s Puji Temple are all painted by local residents. The festive decorations here
exude a distinctively Taiwanese flavor.

61
62
天燈（舒崴）
Sky Lanterns (Shu Wei)

過年期間，新北市十分風景區舉辦天燈節，吸引許多遊客慕名而來。天
燈緩緩升空的景象，在空中閃爍，祈求願望實現，是台灣極具魅力的文
化活動之一。
Held in New Taipei City’s Shifen Scenic Area during the Lunar New Year
holidays, the Sky Lantern Festival attracts tourists from far and wide. The
glowing lanterns rise slowly into the night sky, bearing people’s prayers. This
is one of the most captivating cultural events in Taiwan.

63
全球視野 GLOBAL OUTLOOK

64
 Taiwan and the Philippines:
Close Encounters Past and Present

「菲」比尋常的緣分
台 菲 ‧ 再 連 結 的 旅 程
文•鄧慧純 圖•林格立 版面設計•蕭郢岑

1624年，荷蘭人在大員（今台南）落腳，在台江內海設立了台灣第一個城
鎮，這是台南今年歡慶400年的緣由，亦是台灣歷史與大航海時代接軌的開始。
而世界對台灣的認識，要再早幾年。1571年，西班牙佔領菲律賓群島，以馬
尼拉為基地經營貿易，開啟途經台灣的貿易航線，台灣始在世界航道浮現。
追溯起點，台菲兩地緣分早從這連結就開展了。

I n centuries past, the Philippines played a significant role in sparking the outside
world’s first awareness of Taiwan. When the Spanish occupied the Philippine ar-
chipelago in 1571 and set up Manila as a trading base, they launched new trade routes
that brought them close to Taiwan.

The Philippines has over 7,000 islands with a combined land area of some 320,000 square
kilometers, which is 8.3 times that of Taiwan. It has a population of 110 million, more than 80%
of whom are Catholic, and with a median age of 24.7 years it enjoys a demographic dividend.
Its two official languages are English and Tagalog. The economy is based primarily on the ser­
vice sector, and the country is also a major supplier of migrant labor to the rest of the world.
This description indicates that the Philippines and Taiwan are two very different countries,
but if you take a closer look you will discover that we have deep ties and much in common.

教堂、總督府和市政廳，這樣三合一的組合是西班牙殖民城市的特徵。圖為馬尼拉大教堂與前方的羅
馬廣場。
A cathedral, a governor’s palace, and a city hall are typically found close together at the center of any
Spanish colonial capital. Shown here is Manila Cathedral, with the Plaza de Roma in the foreground.

65
周民淦指出，台灣是菲律賓第八大的貿易夥伴、第八大的出口市場、第八大的進口來源國。
Wallace M.G. Chow, Taiwan’s representative in the Philippines, notes that Taiwan is the Philippines’
eighth largest trading partner, eighth largest export market, and eighth largest source of imports.

擁有7,000多座島嶼的菲律賓，土地面積約32 地，菲律賓是他派駐離家最「近」的地方。
萬平方公里，是台灣的8.3倍大。英語與塔加祿 地理上的近，也讓台灣與菲律賓如難兄難弟
語（Tagalog）為官方語言，超過八成的人民信奉 一般。若去請教氣象學者，他們會告訴你，每年
天主教。逾1.1億的人口，年齡中位數僅24.7歲， 拜訪台灣的颱風多數是從菲律賓出口，先在那
人口紅利是其優勢。產業以服務業為主，農業次 邊打了卡，再到台灣來。地質學家會告訴你，同
之，同時也是世界重要的移工供應國家。看這描 處在環太平洋火山帶上，台灣與菲律賓在地理
述與台灣迥異的國度，但不探不知道，深究才知 環境、地質構造、大氣環境與地震活動等議題息
曉，台灣與菲律賓實有許多深遠的交集。 息相關，能夠合作研究的專題多到包「山」包
「海」。
近到可以揮手打招呼的鄰國
另一種「近」，是划船就可以到的近。攤開
去（2023）年六月甫到任的駐菲律賓台北經濟 地圖，位在台灣本島東南方的蘭嶼，與菲律賓的
文化辦事處代表周民淦，告訴我們，他曾拜訪呂 巴丹群島遙遙相望。巴丹群島最北端的雅米島，
宋島北端的卡加楊省（Cagayan），當地省長告訴 距離小蘭嶼僅99公里。達悟族的口述歷史中，流
他，在北端、靠海岸的人民，可以收聽到從南台灣 傳祖先是從巴丹群島移居蘭嶼，兩地居民語言相
溢波的電台音樂，在地許多居民都會唱台灣的流 似度達六、七成，碰面了可以直接溝通，無需翻
行歌。「不是日本，不是韓國」，周民淦強調： 譯。這兩年原住民族文化事業基金會籌辦中的計
「除卻中國，菲律賓是最鄰近台灣的國家了。」 畫，其一就是要建造拼板舟，從蘭嶼航向那不遠
他也打趣道，派任過帛琉、吉里巴斯、夏威夷等 的彼岸巴丹島，重建昔日的藍色公路。

66
 Close enough to wave hello
Wallace M.G. Chow, who took up his post in June
2023 as head of mission at the Taipei Economic & Cul­
tural Office in the Philippines, tells us that when he once
visited the Province of Cagayan on the northern coast
of Luzon, the provincial governor informed him that
the coastal residents there could hear Taiwanese music
on radio broadcasts from Southern Taiwan, and lots of
locals could sing Taiwanese pop songs. Says Chow: “After
China, the Philippines is the closest country to Taiwan.”
Geographical proximity has translated into close ties
between the two nations. Meteorologists tell us that
most of the typhoons that hit Taiwan each year pass first
through the Philippines, while geologists note that both
of our countries are located on the Pacific Ring of Fire,
which means we have deep similarities in terms of geog­
raphy, geological structure, atmospheric environment,
and seismic activity. Accordingly, there are many areas
where our scientists can engage in collaborative research.
Oral histories of the Tao indigenous people recall that
their ancestors came to Orchid Island from the nearby
Batan Islands. Among the projects carried out by the
Indigenous Peoples Cultural Foundation over the past
two years, one has involved the building of a traditional
ipanitika boat, which will be rowed to the Batan Islands in
a re­enactment of the trips people made in times past.
1990年代，就有一批台商率先響應政府的南向政策，多數落腳在蘇比克灣工業區。
In the 1990s a group of Taiwanese-owned businesses responded to the Taiwan government’s Go
South Policy by setting up operations in the Philippines. Most of them located in the Subic Bay
Freeport Zone.
A misplaced bit of Latin America
A direct flight from Taoyuan International Airport
takes about two hours and 20 minutes to arrive at Ninoy
Aquino International Airport in Manila. The weather
in the Philippines is sweltering, just like in Taiwan, but
in many other ways Manila feels starkly different from
Taipei. In Metro Manila, perhaps due to the influence of
Western colonial rule, the architecture shows a mix of East
and West, which is why Manila is known as “the most
European-style metropolis in Asia.” The business and
financial center of Makati, just like Taipei’s Xinyi District,
bristles with commercial and office towers, while traffic
whizzes about non­stop in the streets below. Unlike in
Taipei, however, one sees security guards stationed along
the streets, armed to the teeth, and you have to submit to
security checks to enter office buildings, shopping centers,
or mass transit stations. And quite often, police dogs sniff
your bags in search of illegal substances. Such experiences
would be unthinkable on the easygoing streets of Taipei.
In Manila, landmarks from Spanish­era colonial rule
are everywhere to be found in the famed Intramuros dis­
trict. In the northwest corner of Intramuros lies old Fort
Santiago, and nearby stands Manila Cathedral. The Palacio
del Gobernador is just to the south, and we find the Casas
Consistoriales (city hall) to the east, while in the middle of
all these lies the Plaza de Roma. This layout is typical of a
67
馬尼拉內著名的王城
區 ， 西 班 牙 語 稱 為
I n t r a m u r o s，也就是
「牆中之城」的意思，
處處留有西班牙殖民的
遺跡。
The Intramuros district
lies in the heart of old
Manila. “Intramuros” is
Spanish for “the area
inside the walls.” Signs of
the city’s colonial past are
everywhere to be seen in
this district.

核，更不時有警犬嗅聞行李，與台北街頭的輕鬆
閒適氣氛截然不同。馬尼拉的街道上，吉普尼
（Jeepney）是當地最普及的交通工具，不設站
牌，敲敲車頂，隨時可以下車，卻也是外國旅人
難以融入的交通方式。
著名的王城區，西班牙語稱為Intramuros，也就
是「牆中之城」的意思，處處留有西班牙殖民的
遺跡。區域內西北方，是著名的聖地牙哥堡，是
重要歷史地標之一，亦是菲律賓國父黎薩絕命之
地。鄰近聖地牙哥堡不遠處，馬尼拉大教堂、南面
的Palacio del Gobernador（總督府）和東面的Casas
Consistoriales（市政廳），包圍著羅馬廣場，這樣
不慎遺落在亞洲的美洲島嶼
的組合是西班牙殖民城市的特徵，一旁還有招攬城
從桃園直飛馬尼拉，兩小時20分即抵達尼諾 市導覽的馬車，噠噠的馬蹄，徐行在石板路上，讓
伊．阿基諾國際機場，一落地除了天氣與台灣 人想起曾在《菲律賓簡史》書中讀到的：「菲律賓
一般燠熱，城市的風情卻與台灣迥異。首都馬 雖然在地理上被視為東南亞的一部分，事實上與其
尼拉與周圍16個城市組成馬尼拉大都會（Metro 他東南亞國家歷史發展的關連不大，反倒像一個不
Manila），也許是受歐美殖民的影響，建築融合 慎遺落在亞洲的美洲島嶼。」
了中西特色，故又有「亞洲最歐化的城市」之
歷史的緣分與似曾相識
名。商貿金融中心馬卡蒂（Makati）與台北的信
義區同樣充斥著鱗次櫛比的商辦大樓，以及川流 來到清華大學歷史所拜訪醉心於大航海時代的
不息的車潮，但街道上站著荷槍實彈的警衛，進 李毓中副教授，他亦是《菲律賓簡史》的作者。我
入商辦大樓、百貨公司或捷運都須先經過安全檢 們以為會遇到如Jack Sparrow船長般，講話會捏著

68
Spanish colonial city, and brings to mind a passage in A
Brief History of the Philippines by Fabio Yuchun Lee, associ­
ate professor in the Institute of History at National Tsing
Hua University (NTHU): “As a matter of geography, the
Philippines may be considered a part of Southeast Asia,
but in fact the path of its historical development isn’t
closely connected with that of other Southeast Asian na­
tions. It seems more like a collection of Latin American
islands that were somehow dropped into East Asia.”
A sense of déja vu
When we travel to NTHU to visit with Fabio Lee, we
are half expecting this man, with his lifelong passion for
the Age of Discovery, to cut a swashbuckling figure like
Captain Jack Sparrow, so it comes as some surprise to
find a genteel scholar dressed in suit and tie. Neverthe­
less, he speaks with enthusiasm: “As the Hokkien people
and the Spanish interacted, Taiwan gradually began to
emerge as an actor on the international stage.”
In the Age of Discovery, Europeans expanded east­
ward to engage in maritime commerce. The Spanish
established a presence in Manila in 1571, at a time when
the Chinese economy was booming, a century after the
founding of the Ming Dynasty. The copper coins then in
circulation were not in sufficient supply to support the
new transaction volumes. Some new medium of exchange
was needed, and the Spanish just happened to arrive with
王城區街道的閒
適氛圍。
A scene from
Manila’s
Intramuros district.
large amounts of Latin American silver. This was minted
into the silver coins which became the standard currency
of the time. In this manner, Spaniards from the Iberian
Peninsula and Hokkien people from Fujian Province struck
up a mutually beneficial arrangement, trading with each
other in Manila to suit their respective needs. In the pro­
cess, explains Lee, Taiwan began to make its appearance in
the annals of world history.
Chinese people who engaged in overseas trade began to
adjust their trade routes. Each December and January, large
numbers of Chinese ships would depart Fujian bound for
Manila. Sailing through the Taiwan Strait, they would pass
Penghu and visit Taiwan’s southern coast before heading
south across the Bashi Strait to reach the island of Luzon.
The Spanish, for their part, would depart from Manila, head
to the north coast of Luzon, pass through the Bashi Strait,
then catch a ride on the northbound Kuroshio Current to
make their way up Taiwan’s east coast before crossing the
Pacific Ocean to get to their colonies in South America. Lee
reminds us that in the Age of Sail, ships had to put to sea in
the right season and catch the right ocean currents. Taiwan
was an important provisioning stop on the way.
Heading for far shores
People of Chinese ethnicity make up a considerable
percentage of the Philippine population, a reflection of the
fact that the Chinese people have long found it necessary
69
手指的海盜，沒想到，卻是位風度翩翩的學者，他 一部分，只是，又在1642年，佔據南台灣的荷蘭
一坐下來就侃侃聊起：「台灣是閩南人跟西班牙人 兵臨城下，結束北台灣16年的殖民統治。
交流的過程中，慢慢浮現出來的。」 地處亞洲，菲律賓因歷史的曲折，與鄰近國
大航海時代，歐洲人東來，在南亞、東南亞及 家長出了不同的姿態。她曾歷300多年西班牙統
東亞從事海上商業活動，他們尋找的目標是香料、 治，美國殖民40多年，以及二戰期間被日本佔
絲綢、瓷器等等，台灣欠缺這類商品，因此，傳統 領；而台灣也曾遭荷蘭、日本、西班牙殖民的歷
上航線是不會經過台灣的。1571年，西班牙人在馬 程，當我們回看歷史，才發覺台、菲有著似曾相
尼拉設立據點。當時中國明朝經歷了百年的休養生 識的背景，在歷史研究上，菲律賓是可供比對、
息，產業經濟大好，原本通行的銅幣不足以負擔大 參考的對象。
規模的交易，但又需要一個好的媒介；這時候由拉
遠走他鄉的歷史
丁美洲向西征討的西班牙人帶來了美洲的白銀，成
為合用的媒介，就此，來自伊比利半島上的西班牙 菲律賓的人口組成有相當比例的華裔族群，這
人和福建的閩南人一拍即合，雙方各取所需，就在 是華人遠走他鄉的移民軌跡與歷史命運，與移往台
馬尼拉進行交易，是這個過程，才使台灣浮現出歷 灣的移民一般，只是大家落腳不同的地方，寫下不
史舞台，李毓中說起箇中的緣由。 同的故事。位在馬尼拉王城區裡的「菲華歷史博物
出海經商的華人開始改變航線，從福建航行到 館」（Bahay Tsinoy，Museum of Chinese in Philippine
馬尼拉，每年的十二月到一月間，大批的中國船 Life），就述說這段遷徙的歷史。
隻從福建出發，航渡 展場中，我們注
建於1511年的聖地牙哥堡，是菲律賓重要歷史地標之一。 意到Tsinoy這個字，
台灣海峽，經澎湖至
Fort Santiago, built in 1511, is one of the most important
台灣南部海岸，再南 historic landmarks in the Philippines. 想到曾經在某書中讀
下巴士海峽抵達呂宋 到的淵源，「早年華
島。另一方面，西班 人叫做C h i n e s e，後
牙人則從馬尼拉起 來叫做Chinese Fili-
程，北上到呂宋島的 pino，菲語為 Chino
北端，渡過巴士海 F i l i p i n o，最後兩個
峽，利用黑潮沿著台 字聯起來成Chinoy，
灣東部北上，再橫越 演變成為今日的
太平洋到南美的殖民 Tsinoy，指的是菲律
地。李毓中提醒，在 賓華人。」
動力船還沒有發明的 西班牙取得菲律賓
時代，要季節對了， 群島後，始有大批華
洋流對了，船隻才能 人移居菲律賓，多數
航行，因此商船要算 來自中國東南沿海福
好時間，才能出發， 建漳州、泉州一帶；
而台灣是中途重要的 華人勤奮的特質，頑
補給站。 強的求生意志，支撐
更深的緣分是， 起殖民地的經濟，也
1626年，佔據菲律賓 為初抵菲律賓的西班
的西班牙殖民政府向 牙人建設起馬尼拉
北拓展，將基隆、淡 城。展場中介紹著華
水等地納為殖民地的 人的工藝是如何銘

70

菲律賓人個性開朗樂天，年齡中位數僅24.7歲，人
口紅利更是其優勢。
The people of the Philippines have a median age of 24.7,
giving the country a demographic dividend.
馬尼拉的交通工具五花八門，從汽車、摩托車、吉普尼到三輪車
Cars, motorcycles, jeepneys, and tricycles are among the wide variety of
vehicles that zip around the streets of Manila, which is famed for its traffic jams.
to pull up stakes and strive for better lives abroad. Their tales are
told in vivid detail at the Museum of Chinese in Philippine Life
(Bahay Tsinoy), which is located in the Intramuros district.
It wasn’t until after the Spanish established control over the
Philippines that the Chinese started settling there in large num­
bers. Most of the settlers came from the Zhangzhou and Quan­
zhou areas of Fujian Province, on China’s southeast coast. It was
ethnic Chinese who supported the Spanish colonial economy and
helped the newly arrived Spanish to build the city of Manila. The
museum’s exhibits show how Chinese artisanry can be observed
even today in Manila’s architecture. In the wooden doors of the
oldest structure in Manila—San Agustin Church—there are deco­
rative elements such as stylized clouds and dragon­like scrollwork.
Meanwhile, the stone lions outside the entrance to the church are
just what the Chinese have always used to ward off evil. All these
details are clear indicators of Chinese influence in the building of
the church.
The imprint of Chinese culture can also be seen in Philippine
cooking implements and foods, which in many cases are known by
Hokkien names. Examples include bithay (rice sieve), siyanse (spat­
ula), bihon (rice vermicelli), lumpiya (spring rolls), and batsoy (noodle
soup made with pork offal, crushed pork cracklings, chicken stock,
beef loin, and round noodles). As we check out the unfamiliar
（Tricycle），但其交通壅塞也是世界聞名。
71
刻在馬尼拉的建築上，去看菲律賓最古老的建築 除了家事服務，多數在電子工廠或高科技的工
物——聖奧古斯丁修道院的木門上，有風格化的 廠，他們對於我們國家的經濟發展有相當的貢
雲、像龍的渦形裝飾，還有在修道院門口安坐的 獻。」台北的中山北路三段有「小馬尼拉」之
石獅子，獅子是華人驅逐邪惡的標誌，強烈地展 稱，周末是菲籍移工聚會的據點，聖多福天主堂
現了華人的影響。 提供英語與塔加祿語的彌撒，是在台菲律賓人的
展場的一角述說著華人文化如何印刻在當地的 信仰中心，裡頭供奉菲律賓特有的黑耶穌像；還
生活世界裡，許多廚房用具、食品加工在菲律賓 有讓菲律賓人像是回到「家」一般的金萬萬名店
仍維持閩南語的名稱，如bithay（米篩）、biloa 城，滿足移工們日常民生所需。
（米漏）、siyanse（煎匙）、bihon（米粉）、 除了台北，新竹也是菲律賓移工的重要據點，
tanghon（冬粉）、lumpiya（潤餅）、pancit（便 《光華》曾報導過，第一位獲得街頭藝人證照的
食，餛飩）、batsoy（肉碎）等等。這些在城市 移工馬利歐，當初是在竹科當作業員，他利用時
中的蛛絲馬跡，都讓身在異國的我們，幽微地嗅 間自學沙畫，還帶起菲律賓移工在台灣舉辦選美
到一絲曾經的熟悉。 活動的風氣。聽獨立媒體「移人」總監李岳軒
Asuka Lee分享，選美是菲律賓的國民活動，新
菲律賓在台灣
竹因為地緣關係，成為菲律賓移工舉辦各式選美
歷史的因緣猶在，今日的台菲因經濟的互動， 競賽的聖地。許多個周末，自信又愛裝扮的菲律
交流更屬頻繁。 賓人會大方地走上伸展台，展現他們對選美的熱
周民淦說起，「在台灣有15萬的菲律賓移工， 愛，讓異鄉也有家鄉的風景。

各式的攤販也是菲律賓的城市風景。
Street stalls of every description are a standard part of
the scenery in any Philippine city.

72
scenes of the Philippines, subtle hints like these show us
that there is actually something familiar about the place.
Philippine presence in Taiwan
With these historical links still palpably present, con­
temporary economic ties between Taiwan and the Philip­
pines have grown very strong, as well.
Says Wallace Chow: “There are 150,000 migrant workers
from the Philippines in Taiwan. Besides those serving as
domestic help, most work in electronics or high­tech facto­
ries, and they contribute significantly to Taiwan’s economic
development.” Section 3 of Zhongshan North Road in Tai­
pei is known as “Little Manila” because Philippine migrant
workers gather there every weekend. St. Christopher’s
Church celebrates mass in English and Tagalog, and is thus
an important source of spiritual comfort for Filipinos in
Taiwan. In addition, King Wan Shop Mall is a place where
Filipinos feel very much at home and can find every little
household item they could possibly need.
Hsinchu is another place that hosts a large concentration
of migrant workers from the Philippines. Taiwan Panorama
has reported in the past on how Mario Subeldia, the first

也許是受歐美殖民的影響，馬尼拉建築融合了中西特色，又
有「亞洲最歐化的城市」之名。
Perhaps because the Philippines features a fusion of Western
colonial influences, Manila is known as “the most European-style
metropolis in Asia.”

Investing in the Philippines

migrant worker to be licensed as a street artist in Taiwan,
has gotten together with other Filipinos to hold beauty pag­
eants in Taiwan. Asuka Lee, editorial director of Taiwan’s
independent media platform Migrants’ Park, says that
beauty pageants are a national pastime in the Philippines,
and because so many migrant workers are based in Hsin­
chu, that area has become a hotbed for beauty pageants
among Philippine migrant workers, who take to the runway
with enthusiasm on many a weekend, thus making their
adopted homes feel more like the land of their birth.
Economic and trade ties between Taiwan and the
Philippines are getting closer all the time. Wallace Chow
points out that for the Philippines, Taiwan is the eighth
largest trading partner, eighth largest export market, and
eighth largest source of imports.
Back in the 1990s numerous Taiwanese businesses re­
sponded to the Taiwan government’s Go South Policy (the
forerunner of today’s New Southbound Policy) by setting
up operations in the Philippines. But within just a few
years the Chinese economy rapidly rose to prominence
and firms moving offshore were much more inclined to
head west to China than to the south. Taiwanese invest­
ments in the Philippines fell way off, but the initial round
of companies that set up there did develop stably.
Tsai Sheng Lin, an administrative manager at Hudson
Outdoor Industrial Inc., tells us that his father was among
the first generation of Taiwanese businesspeople who

73
 南進的台商
2012年就先到越南設廠，2019年為分散風險再到
台菲的經貿關係也愈形密切，周民淦指出， 菲律賓設產線。
2022年，台菲雙邊貿易額到達了107.2億美金，台 企業選擇在蘇比克灣工業區落腳，蔡昇霖說
灣是菲律賓第八大的貿易夥伴、第八大的出口市 起：「蘇比克灣工業區昔日是美軍的海軍基地，
場、第八大的進口來源國。 是個深水港，對業者來說，進貨方便，馬尼拉灣
再把時間推到30年前，1990年代，就有一批 雖然船班較多，但是還要再加上內陸的運輸成本
台商率先響應政府的南向政策，到菲律賓開拓疆 與時間，從馬尼拉拉車到蘇比克，三、四個小時
土，蘇比克灣台商協會會長張哲嘉跟我們聊起這 跑不掉。再者整個區域都是免稅區，配合我們公
段往事。這批台商多在蘇比克灣工業區落腳，只 司是來料加工的模式，不需要再跑保稅的流程，
是不到幾年，中國快速崛起，西進的吸力大過於 對我們來說相對優勢且方便。」
南進，投資菲律賓在台商間沉寂了，但是第一代 張哲嘉落腳菲律賓已經11年了，當初是到菲律賓
的台商至今還是穩健發展。 學英語，順勢留下來闖蕩，如今他經營的天際物流
哈德森公司營運經理蔡昇霖，他父親就是隨著 有限公司，主力台商企業的貨櫃物流業務。去年他
南向政策來到菲律賓發展的台商。「我不是接爸 出任蘇比克灣台商協會會長，日子就是東奔西跑，
爸的事業，在這邊也是領薪水的。」蔡昇霖一見 接待參訪團，希望創造更多台灣與菲律賓的連結。
面就表明。家族經營的是傳統產業，近年來生意 蘇比克灣工業區現有台商85家，連同家屬有大約
不如以前那麼好了，和父親討論過，不如各自發 500位左右的台灣人，離蘇比克灣1.5小時車程遠的
展，但他看好菲律賓的前景，選擇留下來。 克拉克工業區，也有台商近40家左右。「2017年，
蔡昇霖現在服務的企業也是台商，母公司以 中美貿易戰就已經開打了，許多企業也是受美國
生產運動用品為主。2000年左右，投入戶外防水 業主要求將產線外移。」因此近期有許多企業來
袋、包生產，為美國品牌代工。他聊到，老闆在 這邊投石問路，未來想必有更多發展的可能性。

蘇比克灣工業區昔日是美軍的海軍基地，是個深水港，擁有航運上的優勢。
The Subic Bay Freeport Zone used to be a US naval base. It is a deep-water port, which is advantageous for moving freight.

74

invested in the Philippines in response to the Go South Policy.
His family’s firm is active in a traditional economic sector, and
in recent years business has not been going as well as in the past.
After discussing the situation with his father, they agreed that
Tsai should pursue his own career. He decided to stay in the Phil­
ippines because he felt optimistic about future prospects there.
Tsai now works at a Taiwanese­owned business whose parent
company primarily produces sporting goods. Sometime around
the year 2000 the company began manufacturing watertight bags
for outdoor activities for a US brand. In 2012 the company set up
a factory in Vietnam, and then in 2019, to diversify risk, it set up
a production line in the Philippines.
The company decided to locate in the Subic Bay Freeport
Zone (SBFZ). Says Tsai: “Subic Bay used to be a US naval base.
It’s a deep-water port, which makes it convenient to unload
incoming freight. There are more scheduled freighter services
into Manila Bay, but if you land freight in Manila then it takes
time and money to ship it overland from Manila to Subic Bay.
The trip takes at least three to four hours. On top of that, the
entire zone is a freeport, and our company processes imported
materials, so we don’t have to deal with bonded zone proce­
（上）蘇比克灣台商協會會長張哲嘉表示，因中美貿
易戰開打，許多企業來菲律賓投石問路。
(upper photo) Best Chang, president of the Subic Bay
Taiwan Chamber of Commerce, says the US–China
trade war has prompted many companies to explore the
possibility of investing in the Philippines.
（下）哈德森公司營運經理蔡昇霖指出，菲律賓員工
具備英文的優勢，但是專業能力還是要靠業主自己培
養。
(lower photo) Tsai Sheng Lin, an administrative manager
at Hudson Outdoor Industrial Inc., notes that Filipino
employees enjoy the advantage of speaking good
English, but adds that business owners still need to
provide good training to develop their professional skills.
dures. This makes Subic Bay more advantageous
for us, and more convenient.”
Best Chang originally went to the Philippines 11
years ago to learn English. He stayed on, and now
manages a logistics company. He became president
of the Subic Bay Taiwan Chamber of Commerce
last year. In this capacity he constantly runs around
meeting with visiting delegations and seeking to
create more links between Taiwan and the Phil­
ippines. There are currently 85 Taiwanese­owned
businesses operating in the SBFZ, and the number of
Taiwanese (including their family members) living
in Subic Bay totals about 500 people. “The China–US
trade war was already underway in 2017, and many
companies were being affected by demands from US
manufacturers to move their production lines out of
China.” For that reason, many companies have re­
cently been exploring the possibility of investing in
the SBFZ. It appears that there is a sure possibility of
further development in the freeport zone.
Long-forgotten historical records
Apart from everything described above, there
is yet another link between Taiwan and the Philip­
pines that cannot go unmentioned.
In 2017 Fabio Lee, with support from the Chiang
Ching-kuo Foundation for International Scholarly
Exchange, organized an academic team to make a
survey of historical records relating to early inter­
actions between Spain, Taiwan, and China. In
an archival repository at the University of Santo
Tomas in Manila, they discovered a collection
of manuscripts created by ethnic Chinese in the
Philippines, and found that on the catalog for
this collection someone had made the following
75
 再連結，一段被遺落在圖書館裡的歷史
台灣與菲律賓還有一段緣分藏在辭典裡。
時間再跳回到2017年，李毓中在蔣經國基金
會的支持下，組織了學術交流團隊，進行西班牙
保存台灣跟中國史料的調查。在馬尼拉聖多瑪斯
大學的檔案館發現了一批菲律賓唐人手稿，目錄
上被註記了「價值不高」（Vale muy poco）。這
個字眼引起了他的好奇，怎麼館員會對一批材料
進行價值判斷呢？他一翻看，不得了，裡頭是官
話、西班牙語、閩南語對照的詞彙；他又從「基
隆淡水」的詞條中，釋義「艾爾摩沙島上，西
班牙人所在的土地」（Tierra de Isla Hermosa ado
76
estan los españoles），使用的是西語的現在式，
李毓中藉此推敲出這份史料編輯的時代是在西班
牙佔領北台灣（1626∼1642年）的期間。
研究團隊自此開啟了數年的調查、研究、整理
和編纂，出版成《閩南—西班牙歷史文獻叢刊》
系列叢書，是現存所見最早的西班牙與閩南人語
言交流的文本。
李毓中分享，手稿中留有西班牙人寫下「Ca Goa
Ta Tung Lang Oe」（教我說唐人話）的閩南語標
音，推測是當時殖民菲律賓的西班牙傳教士向當地
的華人學習漢語，為進到中國去傳教或者經商之
用。這批手稿的內容極為生活化，搜羅的許多生活
李毓中說起，台灣是在閩南人跟西班牙人交流的過程中，慢慢
浮現出來的。他發現的菲律賓唐人手稿，更是大航海時代閩西
的交流史的見證。
Professor Fabio Lee notes that as the Hokkien people and the
Spanish interacted in centuries past, Taiwan gradually began
to emerge as an actor on the international stage. His discovery
of a collection of manuscripts created by ethnic Chinese in the
Philippines provides stunning evidence of Hokkien–Spanish
interactions in the Age of Discovery.
語彙到現在都還在使用，與現在台灣的用語還有連
結性。而他們也從收錄的字彙發現尋不著姻親的西
語詞彙，推敲出西班牙人並不是華人婚配的對象，
所以用不著這些語詞，這樣的有趣線索。
這段閩西的交流史，讓李毓中所屬的跨國研究
團隊獲得西班牙皇室表揚；這批史料的發現，是
400多年前大航海時代西班牙人與閩南人之間交
流、互相學習對方語言的重要文獻；這來自大航
海時代的時空膠囊，掀開了歷史被塵封的一角；
但應該，應該還有更多的台菲連結，等著我們再
續雙方的交流，再傳述更多的故事。 l
annotation: “Vale muy poco” (“of little value”). This
piqued his curiosity. Why had an archivist assessed the
value of this collection? He looked through the documents
and was astonished to find a dictionary that sets out Chi­
nese and Spanish entries, shows Mandarin and Hokkien
pronunciations, and explains the meanings in Spanish. An
entry for “Keelung and Tamsui,” for example, describes
these places in Spanish as “Tierra de Isla Hermosa ado
estan los españoles” (meaning “the part of Formosa where
the Spaniards are”). Due to the use of the present tense in
the Spanish, Lee concluded that the records in this collec­
tion must have been created during the period when the
Spanish occupied Taiwan’s northern coast (1626–1642).
After this discovery, the team commenced a multi­year
research project that has resulted in the publication of
the multi-volume Hokkien Spanish Historical Document
Series. To date, these are the earliest known documents to
result from linguistic contacts between Spanish and Hok­
kien speakers.
Lee notes that one dictionary entry is an entire phrase
在城市中的蛛絲馬跡，嗅到文化的似曾相識。聖奧古斯丁修道院的木門上，有風格化的雲、像龍的渦形裝飾，門口安坐的是
石獅子，強烈地展現華人的影響。
Subtle clues throughout Manila provide hints to Taiwan’s cultural links with the Philippines. Stylized clouds and dragon-like
decorative elements in the wooden doors of San Agustin Church, and stone lions outside the entrance, give powerful evidence
of Chinese influence in the building of the church.
written out to reflect Hokkien pronunciation—“Ca Goa
Ta Tung Lang Oe” (meaning “teach me how to speak Chi­
nese”). The team members deduce that Spanish colonial
missionaries active at that time in the Philippines must
have intended to learn Chinese from people in the local
Chinese community so that they could go preach or do
business in China. The content of the manuscripts is very
much rooted in everyday life. Many of the vocabulary
items found therein are still in use today, and we can see
similarities with terms used currently in Taiwan.
The work of Lee and his multinational research team
earned them recognition from the Spanish royal family.
The historical records that they discovered from over 400
years ago document the efforts of Spanish and Hokkien
speakers during the Age of Discovery to interact and learn
each other’s languages. These records have given us a
peek into a part of our past that had long lain hidden, but
there must surely be other traces of Taiwan–Philippine
ties that await discovery by inquisitive scholars. l
(Cathy Teng/photos by Jimmy Lin/tr. by David Mayer)
77
島嶼行旅 AROUND TAIWAN

保育之路你我同行
Conservation, a Task for Us All

來到南投集集，和當地名產「香蕉蛋捲」招牌 論數量，石虎的「遠房親戚」、日本沖繩縣
一樣多的，是一個又一個的石虎塑像，不論是靠 西表島的西表山貓，僅存100餘隻的現況或許更
在佈告欄、在火車站迎接旅客，或是在田邊牽著 加危急。根據2017年研究報告預估，台灣石虎群
腳踏車，這隻可愛的淺山精靈不僅名氣盛，也完 體數量約為468∼669隻左右，且數量可能逐漸下
美融入當地居民的生活，讓在地鄉親們即使沒看 滑，也沒有樂觀的本錢。
過本尊，也知道牠的樣貌。路邊做生意的小攤販 因此，從2019年起，一場石虎保育行動便如火如
笑稱：「大家都是因為石虎而來我們這邊玩！」 荼地展開，不論政府、企業或民間，無不希望透過
自身力量，為保育淺山地區指標物種盡一份心力。
如今想在自然環境中看到石虎，難度之高，從
全球第一個路殺導航系統
2010年就開始進行石虎保育研究的農業部生物多樣
性研究所副研究員林育秀說：「不透過追蹤器的 以統計數字來看，石虎生存最大的威脅，是路
話，我只在夜間巧遇過一次，牠那時候坐在馬路 殺。根據生多所2023年救傷紀錄，59筆資料中路
上，聽到車聲就跑掉了。」 殺案例就佔31筆。

78
I n Nantou County’s Jiji Township, you will see
not only many signs for a famous local product,
“banana egg rolls,” but just as many statues of
leopard cats. This adorable creature that lives in
mountain foothills has become consummately inte-
grated into the lives of the area’s residents, so that
even locals who have never seen one in the flesh
know what it looks like. A street vendor says with
a laugh: “It’s thanks to the leopard cat that people
come here to visit!”
It is extremely rare to see a leopard cat in the wild to-
day. Lin Yu-hsiu, an associate researcher in the Taiwan
Biodiversity Research Institute (TBRI) of the Ministry of
Agriculture, who began doing research on leopard cat
conservation back in 2010, says: “Other than via a track-
ing device, I have only encountered one a single time.”
In terms of numbers, the Iriomote cat, a type of leop-
ard cat that lives on Iriomote Island in Japan’s Okinawa
Prefecture, is in a more critical situation than its Tai-
wanese cousin, for only 100-plus Iriomote cats remain.
But there is little room for optimism about the Taiwan-
ese leopard cat either. According to estimates in a study
published in 2017, Taiwan’s leopard cat population was
in the range of about 468 to 699 individuals, and was
probably declining.
In response to this situation, a leopard cat conservation
program has been in full swing in Taiwan since 2019.
World’s first roadkill warning system
Statistically speaking, the greatest threat to the sur-
vival of the leopard cat is road traffic.
At first the TBRI hoped to enable leopard cats to
cross roads safely by erecting warning signs and
developing intelligent road safety systems. But the

關心 石虎也是利益人類
—Protecting Taiwan’s Leopard Cats
文•李雨莘 圖•莊坤儒 版面設計•蕭郢岑

（左上）失親幼獸是石虎被送入救傷中心的原因
之一。（農業部生物多樣性研究所提供）
(facing page) Many of the leopard cats that are taken
to rescue centers are kittens that have lost their
mothers. (courtesy of TBRI)

獲頒友善石虎農作標章的農地，為石虎保留友善
棲地環境。
Farmland that provides a habitat where leopard cats
can survive can be certified to allow its produce to be
labeled as “leopard-cat friendly.”

79
 農業部生物多樣性研究所（下稱「生多所」） 者前來取經，成為現行於西表島的西表山貓路
起初藉由架設警示標誌、研發智慧道路系統等，試 殺預警系統參考依據。
圖讓石虎能更安全地通過馬路，但由於諸多限制成 繼Omnie CUE後，導航王、Garmin等導航系統業
效有限，因此開始思考，是否有更具效率的作法？ 者，也分別於2019、2021年將圖資加入系統中。汽
台灣動物路死觀察網（下稱「路殺社」）創辦人、 車經銷商和泰汽車的TOYOTA Drive+ Connect車載
生多所副研究員林德恩與夥伴們想到，人手一支的 系統，以Garmin導航系統為基礎，於2021年推出
智慧型手機或許是最佳解方。 「動物出沒熱點」服務，透過文字及語音提醒駕駛
恰好當時，台灣新創公司聯捷創新公司為創建 人「動物頻繁出沒，請注意減速慢行」。
旗下導航系統Omnie CUE，向他們提出結合生態保 和泰汽車公關法務部部長謝琴韻表示，有駕駛
育教育資料庫的邀請，兩方一拍即合。 人在使用該系統後，反應行經台北市市區聽到提
最終，導航系統Omnie CUE於2019年正式上 醒時非常驚訝，也因此放慢車行速度，並深刻感
線。其中的路殺預警服務，將路殺社從2011年開 受到原來許多生物就生活在周遭。
始累積的石虎、穿山甲、陸蟹、鳥類和兩棲爬行 未來，林德恩希望可以讓路殺預警圖資廣泛地
類等生物路殺回報資料，與台灣全島地圖彙整， 用於更多平台，例如Google公司向全球提供服務
以聲音和影像提醒駕駛人行經熱點路段應維持於 的Google地圖，「想讓所有車主知道，可以透過
規定速限內，更根據生物出沒特性、路段行經頻 這個方式，為保育盡一份心力。」他說。
率等，人性化調整提醒方式及次數。
募資雞舍改建減緩「人虎衝突」
它不僅是全球第一款有路殺警示功能的導航
系統，也為國內其他導航系統打下基礎。林德 小小的石虎，究竟需要多大的棲地？林育秀舉
恩更透露，導航系統概念提出時，即有日本學 例：「過去人都說有幾甲地（1甲約9,699平方公

石虎路殺熱點立起的警示標誌，提醒用路人減速慢行。
Warning signs placed near leopard-cat roadkill hotspots remind
drivers to slow down and proceed with care.

80
many restrictions were of only limited effectiveness,
so they began to think about whether different ap-
proaches might be more impactful. TBRI associate
researcher Lin Te-en is the founder of the Taiwan
Roadkill Observation Network (TRON). He and his
partners figured out that the optimal solution could
involve smartphones.
Just at that time a Taiwanese startup company,
3SDrive, were developing their Omnie CUE navigation
system, and invited the TBRI to integrate their ecolog-
ical conservation education database into the system.
The two parties quickly agreed to work together.
Omnie CUE went online in 2019. Its wildlife road-
kill warning service combines roadkill report data
on leopard cats, pangolins, land crabs, birds, and am-
phibians gathered by TRON since 2011 with a map of
Taiwan, and uses voice, sounds and images to remind
drivers to stay within prescribed speed limits in areas
that are roadkill hotspots. Moreover, to make the sys-
生物多樣性研究所保育教育館展區，詳細介紹石虎外觀、特
性等。
This display at the Conservation Education Center of the Taiwan
Biodiversity Research Institute explains in detail the appearance
and characteristics of leopard cats.
導航系統透過語音和影像，提醒行經路段為生物路殺熱點。
（和泰汽車提供）
This navigation system uses voice and images to alert drivers
when they are approaching a wildlife roadkill hotspot.
(courtesy of Hotai Motor Company)
tem more user-friendly, they have adjusted the type
and number of warnings issued based on the behav-
ioral characteristics of different animals and the fre-
quency with which they cross specific sections of road.
This is the world’s first navigation system with a
roadkill warning function, and Lin Te-en reveals that
when the concept was first proposed, Japanese academ-
ics soon came to Taiwan to learn about it, and the infor-
mation was helpful in creating the Iriomote cat roadkill
warning system now in use on Iriomote Island.
Following in the wake of Omnie CUE, two other
navigation system businesses, NaviKing and Garmin,
added roadkill hotspot data to their systems in 2019
and 2021 respectively. The vehicle-mounted Toyota
Drive+ Connect navigation system sold by the auto-
motive group Hotai Motor Company, which is based
on the Garmin navigation system, began in 2021 to
offer a “wildlife activity hotspot” service.
Cece Hsieh, general manager of Hotai’s External
Affairs & Legal Division, relates that since drivers be-
gan using their system, they have been surprised to
hear reminders of animal presence even in downtown
Taipei City, and the fact that many animals live in
such areas has been deeply impressed on their minds.
Lin Te-en hopes that in the future the roadk ill
warning data can be used on other platforms, such
as Google Maps. “We want to let all vehicle drivers
know that they can contribute to animal protection in
this way.”
81
尺）就是大地主了。」但石虎更甚。以西表山貓 即可以防範90%的石虎偷襲，但也曾遇上「超級
研究為例，雄性最多可以移動到10∼20公里遠， 高手」，因此石虎保育協會會定期回訪曾參與計
雌性雖因育幼原因移動範圍較小，但也至少有10 畫的雞舍，與農友確認後續是否再有入侵。
公里，這些「大地主」沿著山稜線移動過程中， 「那時候架了八支自動相機，擺成八卦陣，都
難免與人類活動範圍重疊，除路殺之外，誤闖雞 拍不到耶！」苗栗縣西湖鄉五龍宮常委吳兆耀的雞
舍也是常見「人虎衝突」的原因。 舍2019年便遇上了難纏的對手，只好在初次加強的
自動相機在夜間拍下，石虎先是在雞舍外頭探 圍牆上再多裝一層軟網，才終於讓石虎放棄入侵。
頭，沒過多久，牠就出現在雞舍內，再次走過鏡 「但現在對我來說，石虎是一個生態指標，
頭時，嘴上已經叼著一隻雞，準備帶回去飽餐一 有牠就代表生態好，那我種出來的農產品也會
頓。能讓牠如此如入無人之境，除了天生強勁的 好。」經過幾次交手，吳兆耀開始對牠有更多的
攀爬力，不夠高的圍欄也是攔不住這些爬樹高手 認識，退休後更投身石虎保育行動中，不僅在當
的因素之一。 地以客語教授保育相關知識，也成立五龍宮巡守
因此，要避免石虎入侵，加高圍牆便是主要手 隊協助維護棲地。
段，但在地雞農多數因資金和人力不足，無力改 在鄉親共同守護下，架設在西湖鄉的無數台
建。看見這些困境後，林務局、苗栗縣政府等單 自動相機每天都能記錄下石虎、食蟹 獴，和白鼻
位透過生態給付，提供資金協助改善，石虎保育 心等生物在自然棲地中生活的畫面，使在地居民
協會2019年則與國內關注動物議題媒體《窩窩》 透過影像，切實地感受到環境對於保護行動的反
發起雞舍改建募資計畫，不僅改建雞舍，也號召 饋，因而吸引更多人投入。雞舍募資計畫中，同
志工參與。截至2023年6月，三年多的改建計畫 在西湖鄉的吉軒草莓農場老闆賴光政，便是因為
已協助211戶雞舍。 架設在農地的自動相機拍攝到石虎經過，而主動
改善完就能完全杜絕入侵嗎？石虎保育協會棲 與石虎保育協會聯繫，在雞舍尚未有雞入住前，
地保育專員陳祺忠表示，將圍牆加高至200公分 就加裝高度足以防範石虎的圍籬。

雞舍改善募資計
畫，除了提供資
金，也號召民眾擔
任志工，協助雞農
裝設圍欄。（石虎
保育協會提供）
The Leopard Cat
Association of
Taiwan’s fundraising
project for chicken
farm improvements
not only provides
subsidies but also
recruits volunteers
to help chicken
farmers install
protective fencing.
(courtesy of LCAT)

82
被石虎闖過雞舍的吳兆耀，如今成為當地保育石虎的推力之一。
Wu Zhaoyao, whose chicken houses were raided by leopard cats in the past, now promotes leopard cat conservation in his area.

Raising money to protect chicken houses

How large a habitat do leopard cats need? Lin Yu-hsiu, re-
marks: “In the past people who had just a few hectares of land
were considered big landowners.” But leopard cats need even
more. For example, research into the Iriomote cat shows that
males can have a range of ten to 20 kilometers, while females,
though their active range is smaller because they need to nurture
their young, can still roam over an area of least ten kilometers.
As these “big landowners” move along ridgelines, inevitably
their range overlaps with areas of human activity, which is one
reason why they are often found breaking into chicken houses.
The most effective way to keep leopard cats out is to increase
the height of the surrounding walls or fences. But most local
chicken farmers lack the resources and manpower to make such
alterations. The former Forestry Bureau (now the Forestry and
Nature Conservation Agency) and the Miaoli County Govern-
ment began making ecosystem services payments to farmers
to help them make renovations, while the Leopard Cat Associ-
ation of Taiwan (LCAT), in cooperation with the media outlet
Wuowuo, which specializes in animal issues, launched a fund-
苗栗縣西湖鄉五龍宮廣場前立起的「媽祖護石虎」
raising campaign. Besides upgrading protections for chicken 雕像，時刻提醒民眾石虎就生活在你我周遭。
houses, they also recruited volunteers to make the needed This statue of “Mazu protecting leopard cats” in the
courtyard of Wulong Temple in Xihu, Miaoli County,
improvements. reminds people that leopard cats live all around us.

83
踩在叢生雜草上，駿原農場廖宥勝巡視著作物生長的狀況。 看的都會挑掉。」他邊說，邊順手拿起一片葉子
Stepping on wild vegetation, Liao Yousheng of Jun Yuan Farm
checks on how well his crops are growing. 給我們。無施以任何化學藥劑的生菜，不用清洗
就能吃，放心地一口咬下，蔓延在口中的香氣，
是他堅持保護土地換來的最好禮物。
關心石虎，照顧自己
同樣獲有友善石虎標章的南投縣竹山鎮掌櫃果
「今日鳥類，明日人類」是導演梁皆得作品 園的老闆吳圮台，主要作物為檸檬。位於丘陵地
《老鷹想飛》為人類社會帶來的警示。林育秀認
為，如今石虎的處境也具有同樣意義，「關心石 菜園一隅的自動相機，雖然至今仍沒有拍到過石虎，但白鼻
心、食蟹獴等生物倒是很常上鏡。
虎，就是照顧你自己。」她說。
This automatic camera set up in a vegetable garden has yet to
來到駿原農場主人廖宥勝位於南投鹿谷的農 photograph a leopard cat, but it has snapped many images of other
wildlife such as masked palm civets and crab-eating mongooses.
地，映入眼簾的是叢生蔓草，每踩一步還會跳起
無數小蟲，會有如此光景，全是為了保育石虎。
由生多所推行的「友善石虎標章」，鼓勵農
友施行草生栽培，且需遵守不使用傷害野生動物
資材、維持開放空間和不放養犬貓等條件，為石
虎及其他生物提供安全、自由的環境，因而創造
出生機盎然的環境，葉菜上被咬得坑坑洞洞的痕
跡即是最好證據。彎著腰、拿鐮刀仔細地採收生
菜，廖宥勝一番挑挑揀揀後，幾乎一半葉菜都被
他留在田裡，「我比較難搞一點，咬到的、不好

84
 Can intrusions be completely prevented by such
measures? Chen Qizhong, a specialist in habitat con-
servation at the LCAT, says that raising enclosures to a
height of two meters can prevent 90% of leopard cat at-
tacks. Nonetheless, they have encountered some cases
of “super skilled” cats.
“At the time we set up eight automatic cameras, but
we still couldn’t get a photo of it!” says Wu Zhaoyao, a
member of the management committee at Wulong Tem-
ple in Miaoli’s Xihu Township, recalling his duel with a
formidable raider of his chicken houses back in 2019.
“But now, as far as I’m concerned, the leopard cat is
an ecological indicator species whose presence shows
that the environment is healthy and the crops I grow
will be safe.” After several encounters, Wu began to
have a better understanding of the leopard cat, and
after retiring he began to devote himself to leopard
cat conservation.
Good for leopard cats, good for us
“Today the birds, tomorrow mankind.” This is the
warning to humanity presented by the documentary Fly,
Kite Fly by director Liang Chieh-te. Lin Yu-hsiu suggests
雖然曾被鄰居勸說，但掌櫃果園吳圮台仍堅持施行草生農法。
Against the advice of his neighbors, Wu Pitai, owner of Zhanggui
Fruit Orchard, insists on allowing wild plants to cover the ground
around his fruit trees.
that the situation of the leopard cat today has a similar
significance. “Showing concern for the leopard cat is
also a way of taking care of yourself,” she concludes.
Arriving at Jun Yuan Farm in Nantou’s Lugu Town-
ship, owned by Liao Yousheng, we see the land over-
grown with vegetation. This scene is due entirely to
efforts to protect the leopard cat.
The TBRI program of “leopard-cat friendly” labels
for crops encourages farmers to allow wild plants to
grow and to retain open spaces, while it bars them from
using any inputs that are harmful to wild animals and
from allowing dogs or domestic cats to run free. The
goal is to provide leopard cats and other wildlife with
a safe and open living environment. The best evidence
of the program’s success at creating wildlife-friendly
habitats is the bite marks on leafy vegetables. Bending
down, Liao uses a small sickle to carefully harvest his
vegetables, picking and choosing as he goes, and he
leaves virtually half of them in the fields. This produce,
grown without pesticides, can be eaten without being
washed, and its delicious taste is the best repayment
Liao receives for his determination to protect the land.
85

上的一小片果園，漫山雜草長到小腿高，白花鬼
針草盛開，吸引許多蝴蝶和蜜蜂前來。他解釋，
雜草叢生的確吸引許多昆蟲前來光顧，但蟲子在
草堆裡吃飽後，都沒有往檸檬樹上爬，意外減少
蟲害，因此每顆檸檬果都長得相當漂亮。
至於防不住的小花蔓澤蘭，吳圮台口氣輕鬆
地說：「用手拉掉就好，來不及的就算了。」他
更補充，其實最一開始回家鄉農耕時，約一半果
樹就因沒有循序漸進轉草生栽培而枯死，但即使
損失慘重，未來他仍希望能更減少資材使用，他
說：「因為該淘汰的（果樹）就要淘汰，要讓生
態平衡。」
廖宥勝、吳圮台堅持保護生態的心意，與集元
成功保育石虎、使其群體增
加的路，還有一大段要走。
（石虎保育協會提供）
There is still much to do before
efforts to protect the leopard
cat will be successful enough
to enable its population to
grow. (courtesy of LCAT)
86
生物多樣性研究所平日透過宣導、課程
等方式，深入社區，傳遞石虎相關資
訊、知識。（農業部生物多樣性研究所
提供）
The Taiwan Biodiversity Research Institute
uses classes and public awareness
campaigns to educate local communities
about the leopard cat. (courtesy of TBRI)
果農場等其他友善石虎農友的收成，都收在「蕉
織環創所」推出的石虎蔬果箱裡，希望可以讓民
眾吃到乾淨無毒的蔬果，並透過購買，為石虎留
下一個家。
林育秀指出，石虎「豆棗」在野放後，近期
被拍到出沒在一位農友的果園附近，是友善石虎
標章效益的最好證明，「石虎給我們的反饋滿大
的。」她說，研究團隊也相當振奮。
保育石虎的路，到這裡還不是終點，無數已
知、未知的風險仍持續對牠、乃至整個自然環境
帶來威脅，惟有居住在這塊土地的人們持續關
心，在保育之路上同行，才能使這群淺山精靈再
度活躍於山林中。 l
石虎「豆棗」野放後，沿著山稜線一路向南，近期被發現在南投一處農地附近定居。
（農業部生物多樣性研究所提供，王威翔攝）
After being released into the wild, the rescued leopard cat Douzao headed south along a ridgeline. Recently she has been
discovered living near a leopard-cat-friendly farm in Nantou County. (photo by Wang Weixiang, courtesy of TBRI)
At his Zhanggui Fruit Orchard in Nantou’s Zhushan
Tow nsh ip, wh ic h li kewise is cert if ied to use t he
“leopard- cat friendly” label, Wu Pitai mainly grows
lemons. In this little orchard, located in hilly country,
weeds grow up to calf length and Spanish needles
flourish, attracting many butterflies and bees. Wu
explains that the weeds certainly attract numerous
insects, but they eat their fill amid the wild vegetation
and don’t approach the lemon trees, letting all his lem-
ons grow into beautiful fruit.
As for the irrepressible mikania vine, Wu says ca-
sually: “I just pull them out with my hands, and if I
don’t get them all before they seed, then so be it.” Even
though he suffers heavy losses, he still hopes that in the
future he can reduce his use of inputs even further. He
says: “You have to let go of any trees that are too weak
to survive, so that there can be ecological balance.”
The determination of farmers like Liao Yousheng and
Wu Pitai to protect the environment, and the way that
the crops harvested by leopard-cat friendly farms like
the Jiji Banana fruit farm are packed in specially marked
fruit and vegetable boxes produced by Banana Fiber
Weave Cultural Industries, all stem from the hope that
ordinary people, through their purchases, can preserve
a place where leopard cats can survive in the wild.
Lin Yu-hsiu points out that the leopard cat “Douzao,”
which was released into the wild after being rescued as
a kitten, recently was photographed in the vicinity of an
orchard that is certified as leopard-cat friendly, which
is the best evidence that the “leopard-cat friendly” label
is working. She says: “We get a great deal back from the
leopard cats.”
This is by no means the last word in leopard-cat con-
servation, for the cat still faces countless known and
unknown risks. Indeed, the whole environment is under
threat. Only if the people who live on this land continue
to protect them can these adorable creatures of the foot-
hills once again have a space where they can thrive. l
(Cindy Li/photos by Kent Chuang/
tr. by Phil Newell)
87
島嶼行旅 AROUND TAIWAN

漢 藥的日常隱味
百年中藥行的
回眸與轉身
The Hidden Flavors
of Medicinal Herbs:
Traditional Chinese Pharmacies
Turn Over a New Leaf

文•蘇俐穎 圖•林旻萱
版面設計•蕭郢岑

新竹鴻安堂，超
過百年的老屋可
以看到家族留下
走在街頭巷尾，偶有可見
的歷史痕跡，古
已然歇業的中藥行，即便隨 色古香。
You can feel
著時代轉型的步伐，它們正 the historic
ambience in
以每年200家停業的速度急遽 the century-old
building where
消失。但根深蒂固的藥用文 Hsinchu’s Hong
化、知識、風俗，仍恆存於 An Tang TCM
pharmacy is
台灣人的日常，讓我們一起 located.

回頭看看，這文化根底的重
要源頭吧！

88
S trolling through urban streets, one can occasion-
ally see a traditional Chinese pharmacy that has
gone out of business, for they are closing at a rate
of 200 a year. However, the culture, knowledge, and
customs of Traditional Chinese Medicine are deeply
embedded in the daily lives of Taiwanese. Let’s take a
look back at the history and evolution of these shops.

發現故事提供 courtesy of City Explorer

89
 竹塹古城的北門老街，曾經是維繫北台灣物流 謝坤育說，過去的藥行幾乎全年無休，就算
輸送的重要命脈，即便人流不如往昔，坐落在百 到了夜晚，只要家人在家，仍會加減顧店，並為
年老廟長和宮對面，有著典雅巴洛克風格立面的 應急上門的客人留下門縫，但也因此難免引蟲入
鴻安堂藥房，仍在老街上盡忠職守地營業著。 室。「餳塗豆擊尚無休，又向書前擾筆頭。觸起
閩式三進的長屋，別有洞天的空間裡散發著幽 王思揮劍逐，難容汝輩穢吟儔。」謝森鴻寫下的
幽藥香，在第四代負責人謝傑然、謝坤育兄弟的 〈驅蠅〉，或許就是在深夜顧店時的有感而發？
熱絡招呼下，讓人像踏入了時光迴廊。 為了驅蟲，謝森鴻信手從藥櫃中搭配藥材，而
後，慢慢地發展成鴻安堂招牌的驅蚊包。白色綿
漢醫、漢藥、漢文化
布袋裡依比例填裝丁香、艾葉、藿香等八種草本植
鴻安堂的前身，是由謝傑然、謝坤育的曾祖父 物，稍加搓揉，強烈的香氣四溢，蚊蟲紛紛忌避。
謝森鴻所創辦的森茂藥行。出身可溯及東晉謝安 因其仁心仁術，謝森鴻過去被街坊敬稱為「鴻
的後代，來自劉禹錫詩中的「烏衣巷」，書香門 仙」。八年前，隨著父母年事已高，孝順的謝傑
第的謝家，包括漢醫兼私塾老師的謝森鴻，以及 然、謝育坤紛紛回家接棒，如何為藥行續命，同
其長子、第二代掌櫃謝麟驥，積極參與詩社聯吟 時不負父執輩一路傳下的好口碑，成為兄弟倆的
的父子，曾是在地相當活躍的文學人物。 莫大挑戰。
老店的內裝至今一如往昔，猶似被封存在時 不可諱言，對現今的中藥行而言，「藥」已不
光膠囊的空間，仍能緬想起前人工作的模樣。頂 再是銷售主力，「但即便不賣藥，還是有很多從生
天立地的藥櫃，一格格的抽屜存放著不同藥材， 活延伸的相關產品。」謝坤育說。堅持每週現磨的
寬大的矮櫃，在白天是歷代掌櫃幫客人把脈、抓 黑、白胡椒，每月現切的當歸，新鮮的食材因豐富
藥、配藥的工作檯，到了晚上，是曾祖父與祖父 的精油釋放出濃烈香氣，絕非大賣場中陳放或者摻
寫詩創作的書桌。 入添加物的貨色可與之相比，如此品質，除了熟門

來自謝森鴻祖傳的驅蚊包，使用八種藥材。
The mosquito repellent bags invented by Xie Senhong contain eight different medicinal herbs.

90
 Historic Beimen Street in Hsinchu
City was once a critical node in the trans-
port of goods into Northern Taiwan.
Today, directly across from the centuries-
old Changhe Temple there sits a building
with an elegant baroque facade that is
home to the Hong An Tang traditional
Chinese pharmacy, which is still stead-
fastly in operation despite a decline in
local foot traffic.
As we are warmly greeted by the
fourt h-generat ion operators of t he
pharmacy, brothers Robbie and Stanley
Hsieh, we feel as if we are stepping into
a time tunnel. 藥鋪裡的故事，就和長屋一樣幽深，散發著時代的韻味。
The stories of this old pharmacy are as deep as the long, narrow house where it
Chinese medicine and culture is located, which exudes the charm of its era.
The forerunner to Hong An Tang was
the Senmao Pharmacy, founded by Xie
Senhong, the brothers’ great-grandfather. The family traces and one can visualize the Hsieh brothers’ forebears
its ancestry back to the politician Xie An (320–385 CE) of the working here back then. Each drawer in the gigantic
Eastern Jin Dynasty. Coming from Nanjing’s Wuyi Lane, medicine cabinet holds different medicinal ingredients,
commemorated in a poem by Liu Yuxi of the Tang Dynasty, while the wide front counter serves as a workspace
the Xies have traditionally been a family of scholars. Both where shop staff have over time felt customers’ pulses
Xie Senhong and his eldest son, Xie Linji, were very active in and made up Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) pre-
the local literary scene, and took part in the Taiwanese Poets’ scriptions. However, back in the day this same counter
Society, an annual poetry convention held from 1924 to 1937. was used for customer service only by day, for at night it
The layout and decor of the old pharmacy remain as became a desk where the brothers’ great-grandfather and
they were in days gone by, as if sealed in a time capsule, grandfather wrote poetry.

鴻安堂第四代謝坤育。
Stanley Hsieh is part of
the fourth generation of his
family to run Hong An Tang.

91
熟路的婆婆媽媽指定選購，對口味有所堅持的新竹
在地小吃、餐館，也是鴻安堂的常客。
另外，謹遵漢醫理念「春養肝、夏養心、秋養
肺、冬養腎，四季養脾」推出的漢方茶飲，留有
昔時一帖帖藥方的影子，一包最重可達20公克，
碩大的杭菊、完整的丹蔘、桑寄生，用料之紮
實，與坊間常見僅三、五克，將材料打得細碎的
風味飲品，份量截然不同。這些產品，為人們找
到了非得上中藥行不可的理由。

那個年代的土地公廟與便利商店

有別於現代社會強調不同領域的專業分工、各
司其職，傳統社會裡的中藥（行），或台語稱的
漢藥（房），不僅僅用於醫療。在過去，生老病
死，起居日用，都有中藥的如影隨形。
台灣人喜愛吃火鍋，羊肉爐、薑母鴨、麻辣鍋等鍋底均有中
在藥鋪子長大的小孩，可以說相當有感。高雄 藥的身影。
Taiwanese enjoy eating dishes made with broth that includes
鳳山順昌中藥行第三代，盧俊雄、盧俊欽紛紛談 TCM ingredients, including mutton hotpot, ginger duck with rice
wine, and spicy hotpot.
起了對中藥行難以一語道盡的複雜情感。
由於往日的中藥產業不比現在，多有加工廠代
勞，舉凡藥材的炮製、切片、丹膏丸散的製作， 婦女作月子、小產喝的生化湯，小孩子吃椪糖
通通集中在藥鋪進行。店務繁重的緣故，因此， 加入的「重曹」，人過世時法會上用的藥懺，兌
小時候只要下了課，家裡五個小孩就得在父母的 現廟中的藥籤，廚房用的黑白胡椒、藥膳材料，
「強迫」下，責無旁貸地加入工作的行伍。 加速傷口癒合的紫雲膏，美膚的玉容散，潔牙的
畢竟，在西醫、西藥未普及的「藥鋪年代」， 齒粉，甚至是染髮劑，都可以在中藥行「一站式
集結土地公廟、便利商店、藥妝店等複合式功能 購買」。為了因應左鄰右舍的廣大需求，作為當
的中藥行，生意總是風風火火，「土地公廟指的 前藥房掌櫃的盧俊雄回憶起往昔：「過年也只休
是『有求必應』，小七說的是『全年無休』。」 息一天，其他364天都開門營業。」
盧俊欽說。 但也由此見得，中藥行雖名為藥行，服務的範
圍卻遠遠超過「藥」的範疇。這樣的特質，使得在
西醫大舉流行，中醫診所、藥妝店、大賣場相繼瓜
分中藥材市場的現代，為中藥行留下一條路。

在藥櫃裡是藥材，在廚房變成香料

「十全嘗罷又參茸，壯腎扶陽不怕冬。元氣全
身恢復後，誰將功德記神農。買來珍藥味方濃，
氣血調和散鬱胸。我自八珍常服後，年來已不怕
嚴冬。」謝麟驥的〈進補〉，書寫了台灣民間藥
食同源的文化。

每個藥行的藥櫃，都是依照各家藥行的需求客製打造，背後
對於台灣人而言，中藥不只是藥，也是兼具藥
都有各自的故事。 性的食物。近年流行，用來煉油的花椒，除了
Every pharmacy’s medicine cabinet was custom-made according
to the shop’s needs, and each cabinet has a story behind it. 是麻辣鍋裡不可或缺的要角，就中醫觀點，則用

92
 Stanley Hsieh says that in the past TCM pharmacies
were open virtually year-round without a break. Even at
night, as long someone was at home, they would try to
keep an eye on the shop, and to help customers who came
by with urgent needs, they always left the door open a
crack. However, this made it easy for insects to get inside.
To keep these insects at bay, Xie Senhong combined in-
gredients from the medicine cabinet and gradually devel-
oped Hong An Tang’s own special mosquito repellent. The
white cotton bags that the shop fills with eight medicinal
herbs including cloves, mugwort, and Korean mint give
off a powerful fragrance that mosquitos assiduously avoid.
It must be said that for TCM pharmacies today, “med-
icines” are no longer the main seller. Hong An Tang
grinds both white and black pepper each week and cuts
dong quai (Angelica chinensis) each month. These freshly
prepared food ingredients contain abundant essential
oils, making them richly aromatic. The products sold in
hyper markets, which may spend months on the shelves
or be mixed with additives, simply cannot compare.
In addition, following the concepts of TCM, the shop
offers herbal teas that call to mind the herbal medicinal
practices of yesteryear. One teabag can weigh as much
as 20 grams, and they include solid ingredients such as
large chrysanthemum flowers, complete red sage roots,
and mulberry mistletoe. Their pouches are much more
substantial than the flavored beverage bags often seen
in the market that weigh a mere three to five grams and
whose contents have been crushed into tiny fragments.
Convenience store of days gone by
In contrast to the modern era, with its emphasis on spe-
cialization in society, in traditional society medicinal herbs
were not used solely for therapeutic purposes. In the past,
TCM pharmacies played a role in all aspects of daily life.
Traditional herbal pharmacies were “one-stop shops”
for everything from fortifying decoctions for women to
drink after a birth or miscarriage, sodium bicarbonate for
making honeycomb toffee for children, herbs for funeral
ceremonies, black and white pepper for seasoning food,
ingredients for medicinal cuisine, and “purple clouds”
ointment to promote healing of cuts, to cosmetics, teeth
whitening powder, and even hair dye. Lu Junxiong,
third-generation operator of Shunchang Chinese Phar-
macy in Kaohsiung’s Fengshan District, recalls that in
days gone by, to meet the needs of the local community,
“We only closed for one day at the Lunar New Year and
were open the other 364 days of the year.”
Although TCM shops are called “pharmacies,” the
scope of their services far exceeds just medicines. This
characteristic enables these businesses to survive in an
age in which Western medicine predominates and TCM
clinics, pharmaceutical and cosmetics shops, and hyper-
markets divvy up the TCM herbal products market.
Medicines into spices
For Taiwanese, TCM medical materials are not merely
medicines, but also foods with medicinal properties. Si-
chuan peppercorns, which have been popular in recent
years and are used to infuse oils with flavor, not only are
an irreplaceable ingredi-
ent in spicy hotpot, from
the TCM perspective they
also have analgesic and
anaesthetic effects. Mean-
while, wood ear fungus
a nd snow f u ng us a re
common on Taiwanese
dining tables, but they
a lso have t he effec t of
“moistening the lungs”
到藥行才切片的當歸，香
氣四溢。
Hong An Tang’s dong quai
is sliced at the pharmacy; its
fresh fragrance fills the air.
93
 順昌中藥行第三代，以
中藥為核心尋找創新的
可能，左起：盧俊欽、
盧俊雄、盧淑如。
The third-generation
operators of Shunchang
Chinese Pharmacy are
seeking new possibilities
for the use of TCM
ingredients. From left: Lu
Chun-chin, Lu Junxiong,
and Lu Shu-ju.

以止痛、麻醉的藥物。木耳是台灣人的餐桌上常 盧俊欽說，中藥行與餐飲業的結合，其實從父
見的食物，但也具潤肺的功效，而被稱作「窮人 親盧順福當家的時候就已經結下。他拉開矮櫃抽
的燕窩」。可說同一種產品，「放在藥櫃裡是藥 屜，取出一本老舊脫線的筆記本，裡頭是歷代掌櫃
材，拿到廚房裡就變成香料。」盧俊欽用兩句話 手寫的「內單」（中藥行依據客人需求特製化打
概括。 造，並將配方留於店內的處方籤），除了流傳在某
即便缺乏運用中藥材的明晰覺知，但中藥材的 一村里的治喘良方、隔壁阿伯指定通血路的方子以
存在卻比想像中來得普遍。除了家庭廚房基礎備 外，還不乏鄰居蒸紅蟳的配方、某檳榔攤的秘密配
有的黑胡椒、白胡椒、花椒、八角，夜市常見的 方，還有某烤鴨名店指定的私房香料等。
藥膳：四物、八珍、十全，喜愛吃鍋的台灣人深 「現在，九成的中藥行都在等著退場。」盧俊
深青睞的燒酒雞、羊肉爐、薑母鴨、麻辣鍋，甚 欽毫不諱言。當人們改上中醫診所看診拿藥，到屈
至是烤鴨、肉骨茶、茶葉蛋、滷肉飯，這些引人 臣氏、康是美採購藥妝品，就連超市、大賣場都可
食指大動的美食中，通通有藥材的穿針引線。 以買到現成的藥膳包，代客煎藥的服務也有生技業
「就連你愛吃的鹽酥雞，醃雞肉時用的肉桂、 者代勞，業務量大為萎縮的中藥行該何去何從？
花椒、黑白胡椒，胡椒鹽裡的五香粉，其實都是 從食材的角度把中藥發揚光大，成了盧家兄妹
在吃香料的味道啊！」盧俊欽說。它們的存在卻 三人戮力最深的地方。盧俊欽以父親之名成立福伯
讓人渾然未覺，「那是因為華人吃香料的方式， 本草，推出滷包、五香粉、十三香，醃漬鹹豬肉用
和印度料理的直接相當不同，在我們的料理中， 的乾式香料粉；由小妹盧淑如掌杓的網路商店玖拾
香料被當成是『隱味』。」 柒食堂，則兜售麻辣鍋、酸白菜等即食調理包。即
便中藥行已回不到過往門庭若市的榮景，但這些引
餐飲業者的香料「內單」
人饞念的產品，暗示著，它永不消失。
在藥堆裡長大，從小喜歡跟著母親在廚房兜轉
大稻埕：中藥產業龍頭雲集
的盧俊欽，集結了飲食與藥材的觀點，寫下《餐
桌上的中式香料百科》一書。熟知香料，同時能 而說起中藥材產業，勢必得提起盤商、店鋪雲
連結專業廚房的他，目前也是多家餐廳的顧問。 集的大稻埕了。集結了中藥、南北貨、茶葉、布

94
to relieve coughs and release phlegm, and are known as
“the poor man’s bird’s nests.” You could say of many in-
dividual TCM products that “they are medicines when in
the medicine cabinet but culinary ingredients when in the
kitchen,” says Lu Chun-chin, one of the third-generation
owners of Shunchang Chinese Pharmacy.
Even for people who are unaware of the uses of TCM
ingredients, these are much more common than one would
think. Besides basic kitchen necessities including black
and white pepper, Sichuan peppercorns, and star anise,
as well as medicinal foods widely available in night mar-
kets such as four agents decoction, eight gem decoction,
and ten herbs tonic soup, there are TCM ingredients in a
wide variety of other foods. These include dishes served in
broth that are very popular with Taiwanese, such as wine-
cooked chicken soup, mutton hotpot, ginger duck with rice
wine, and spicy hotpot, and even roast duck, bah kut teh
(pork ribs in broth), tea eggs, and braised pork over rice.
The fact is that many people are oblivious to the pres-
ence of medicinal herbs in food. “This is because the way
that ethnic Chinese consume spices is very different from
被稱作五香進階版本的「十三香」，
煎煮炒炸燜蒸燉烤都可以使用，是
台灣相當普遍的香料複方。 高良薑
Chinese 13-spices mix, Lesser galangal
known as an advanced rhizome
version of five-spice
powder, can be
used in all types 肉荳蔻
of cooking and is Nutmeg
quite common
in Taiwan.
Indian cuisine. In our cuisine, spices are ‘hidden flavor-
ings,’” says Lu Chun-chin.
Lu Chun-chin, who grew up amidst medicinal herbs
and as a child loved to follow his mother around the
kitchen, has brought together dietary and TCM ideas to
produce a book titled An Encyclopedia of Chinese Spices.
With his familiarity with seasonings and his cooking ex-
pertise, Lu has become a consultant to many restaurants.
Lu says that Shunchang’s and other pharmacies’ con-
nection with the food and beverage industry had in fact
already begun when his father, Lu Shunfu, was in charge.
He opens a drawer in the customer counter and pulls out
an old notebook inside which are handwritten prescription
slips from over the years, for custom-made concoctions
based on customer requirements, with the formula kept
permanently on hand in the shop. They include a remedy
for bronchial problems from a certain village and a pre-
scription to support blood circulation as dictated by the
old man next door, as well a neighbor’s recipe for steamed
crab, a certain betelnut stand’s secret formula, and direc-
tions for an in-house seasoning created by a
well-known roast duck restaurant.
Promoting TCM ingredients
肉桂 through their use in food has
Cinnamon
become the main focus
陳皮
Dried tangerine peel

草果
白芷 Black cardamom
Taiwan angelica
root

小茴香 仙渣
Fennel seeds Chinese hawthorn

乾薑
Dried ginger 八角
Star anise

砂仁
花椒 Villous amomum fruit
Sichuan
peppercorns 甘草 95
Licorice
料等傳統物產的大稻埕，光短短的迪化街上就有 易往來的頻仍發達，加上茶葉、漢藥材、南北貨
數十家藥行林立，空氣裡飄散著中藥、乾貨混合 等商品範疇互有重疊，這些產品的集散、轉運與
的氣味，騎樓下的花車、店內的貨架上商品琳瑯 銷售，逐漸在此扎根。
滿目，這裡不僅台灣人登門，也是來自港澳、日 大稻埕的代表性I P，由郭雪湖1930年繪製的
韓等地的外國旅客指定走訪的重要景點。 〈南街殷賑〉裡頭，被稱作「南街」的迪化街
但，由於中藥的學理與實務多採家傳或師徒 上，就可見到中藥行「乾元元丹本舖」的蹤影，
制，加上產業文化特殊，如各店鋪都有一套只有 百年老店近些年才歇業，但至今仍有由後代支系
自家人才懂的計價方式，並且會運用藥訣背誦藥 經營的乾元參藥行，在大稻埕範圍內的西寧北路
理知識等，對於不得其門而入的外人來說，中藥 上持續營運。
行總籠罩著一股神祕氣息。為了打破產業的封閉 由於大稻埕的許多門市兼具盤商身分，「他們
性，拉近與大眾的距離，2017年迪化圈商圈藉由 的一間倉庫，就有一家藥行那樣大。」外地的中
舉辦「本草派對」，以活動向大眾推廣、發揚漢 藥行業者往往如此繪聲繪影地聲稱。毋庸置疑，
藥的知識與文化。此遭，在台北迪化商圈發展促 對台灣的中藥產業而言，這裡的業者是喊水會結
進會總幹事陳仕哲的熱情領路下，我們方有機會 凍的領頭羊。對消費者來說，這裡則是貨品最齊
以一窺其堂奧。 全、最新鮮，高檔貨也最多的採購天堂了。
大稻埕為何會成為中藥材的重鎮？陳仕哲從迪 以紅棗來說，除了煲湯用、甜度高的一般紅
化街的前世今生談起。1858年自天津條約簽訂， 棗，也可以見到個頭較小、藥性較強的雞心紅
淡水開港，英國商人約翰•陶德與來自廈門的商 棗，以及品質優異、價格矜貴，苗栗公館的本地
人李春生合作，把福建安溪的茶苗帶到北台灣種 產紅棗。或以肉桂而言，一般等級的肉桂外，多
植，並在大稻埕烘焙加工，再由此出口。隨著貿 數大店鋪也會販售，高檔的清華肉桂，只需要灑

迪化商圈舉辦本草派對，透過活動的企劃與轉化，讓人們重新發現漢藥的底蘊與魅力。（發現故事提供）
The “Herbal Party” events put on by the Dihua Street business community help people rediscover the history and
charm of Traditional Chinese Medicine. (courtesy of City Explorer)

96

of effort for the siblings of the Lu family. Lu Chun-chin has
founded the brand Fubo Bencao and come out with various
products including spice pouches, five-spice powder, and
Chinese 13-spices mix. At the same time, younger sister Lu
Shu-ju handles online marketing for the brand Chiu Shih
Chi, which sells instant seasoning pouches for dishes like
spicy hotpot and pickled cabbage hotpot. Although tradi-
tional TCM pharmacies will never again enjoy the glory
days of the past, these mouthwatering products suggest
that these shops will never entirely disappear.
Dadaocheng: Bastion of TCM ingredients
When the subject of the TCM materials industry comes
up, Taipei’s Dadaocheng area, where there is a cluster
of dealers and shops, is sure to be mentioned. On short
Dihua Street alone, there are tens of TCM pharmacy busi-
nesses in among the vendors of other traditional products
such as dried foods, tea, and textiles. The place attracts not
only Taiwanese, but also foreign visitors.
How did Dadaocheng become a bastion of the TCM
ingredients business? Chen Shih-che, director general
在大稻埕的德利泰中藥材互動體驗館，展出各種罕見的中藥原
型，還有古老的製藥工具（如左圖之藥船），讓人大飽眼福。
Daily Health, an interactive experience center for TCM medicinal
herbs in Dadaocheng, displays many rare Chinese medicines in
their original forms as well as old-fashioned tools for preparing them,
such as the grinders in the inset photo. It’s a feast for the eyes.
of the Dihua Street Shopping District Development As-
sociation, tells us about Dihua Street’s past. After the
Treaty of Tianjin was signed in 1858, the port of Tamsui
was opened to foreign trade. Scottish merchant John
Dodd and businessman Li Chunsheng, originally from
Xiamen, collaborated to cultivate tea plant seedlings
from Fujian in Northern Taiwan, and the resultant tea
was processed in Dadaocheng and exported from there.
As trade increased, given the overlap between tea, TCM
medicinal ingredients, dried foods and other products,
Dadaocheng gradually became a distribution and sales
point for all these goods.
For Taiwan’s TCM ingredients industry, Dadaocheng
firms are the most influential leaders. For consumers, the
area is a shopping paradise with the most complete selection
and freshest products, and also the most high-end goods.
Take Chinese jujubes (Ziziphus jujuba) for example. Be-
sides the ordinary sweet varieties used in stews, there are
also varieties with much stronger medicinal properties
as well as expensive high-quality jujubes locally grown
97
上一點點，優雅清香。「不同產地、不同品種、 開加熱即食的藥膳調理包、風行於年輕客群之中
不同風味，都會不同。」陳仕哲解釋，在大稻 的紅酒香料包等各種產品，隨著生活習慣、飲食
埕，產品應有盡有，任君選擇。 風潮更迭不斷推陳出新。與此同時，不只是線下
服務，每家店鋪幾乎已邁向虛實整合，同步拓展
見機轉型，中藥行的未來
電商網購業務。
踅在迪化街上，陳仕哲教我們分辨，店內講 這些合縱連橫的經營策略，也讓人發現，漢
究、裝潢不惜重本者，多為店面自有；裝潢較為 藥跨出國界藩籬後，與異質文化的對比與呼應處
簡單，則為承租店面的業者。但所有的商家都有 處；以及在當代生活中具備的文化、商業潛力，
著一個明顯共同特色，那就是，它們都是手腕靈 仍不容小覷。
活，洞見時局及早轉型的先行者。 舉例而言，不少外國客人認明，包裝袋上有著
這樣的特性，呼應著老街的發展歷程。當1996 鮮明的台灣圖像，商標結合了日出與水波的聯通
年，呼應著大稻埕每逢春節前夕自然有的「結 漢芳，將中藥材媒合西洋香草、藥草，除了販售
市」現象，經過台北市政府的大力行銷，以迪 起花草茶包，也提供細粉，專供手工藝業者製作
化街為主，結合民俗節慶與行銷宣傳的「年貨 藥皂。
大街」一炮而紅。對外，老街從此華麗轉身；對 店面輝煌大器的六安堂，專售高單價的鮑魚、
內，原本一度因產業式微而開始討論都更的街 燕窩、花膠、藥膳包，留日歸國的第四代當家也
區，對傳統街屋的留 以其人脈優勢，培養起
存與歷史文化的認同 洛神、仙渣等「中藥」，是常見的調飲材料。
不少日本熟客。
（發現故事提供）
逐漸凝聚起了共識。 TCM herbal ingredients such as roselle and Chinese hawthorn are 至於黃裕生藥行則將
frequently used to flavor beverages. (courtesy of City Explorer)
懷抱著來自大稻埕 老字號經營得時髦又清
的榮譽，以及復振傳統 新。與插畫家合作的系
產業的使命感，隨著街 列包裝，常被年輕人選
區走向觀光化，加上消 為婚禮小物；店內也販
費市場的轉變，以及新 售牙買加煙燻香料、肯
世代的陸續接班，還有 瓊粉等異國香料，並結
台北市政府的老店改造 合南北貨的果乾，推出
輔導，以及本草派對催 各種水果香料水配方。
化的創新動能的挹注， 女性當家的黃長生
種種因素，讓目前在此 藥行，則有不少母嬰產
營業的店家，莫不使出 品，好比專攻產婦或寶
渾身解數，除了固守原 寶使用的入浴劑、哺乳
有的客源，也積極地開 茶等。
拓商機。 「能在大稻埕活下
故此，更鮮明、有 來的，都有自己的特色
系列感的品牌設計包 與客群。」陳仕哲說。
裝競相出爐；日語、 中藥產業就如大稻埕走
英語、中文等多語並 過百年的興衰起伏，卻
行的產品說明時有可 仍屹立不搖至今，在未
見；主打小家庭、單 來，也將以更寬廣、多
身族群的小包裝產品 元的角度，持續守護著
愈來愈普及；可以打 台灣人的日常。 l

98
被稱作「活的老街」的大稻埕，古老的中藥產業在此轉身，找到與當代人、與跨國文化的連結。
Dadaocheng, known as a place of living history, is where the long-established TCM ingredients industry has
transformed itself to find connections to modern people and overseas cultures.
in Miaoli County. As for cinnamon, besides the ordinary
grade products, most large shops also sell high-end Qing-
hua cinnamon. “Different growing sites, varieties, and
flavors all affect the end product,” explains Chen Shih-
che. Dadaocheng offers everything one can imagine.
Walking along Dihua Street with Chen, we learn that
the firms there all have something in common: They are
nimble, clear-sighted companies that were pioneers in
transforming themselves.
This characteristic recalls the development process of
this historic street. In the past, each Lunar New Year’s Eve
there was naturally some kind of collective grand sales
event in Dadaocheng. But in 1996 the Dihua Street New
Year Market, combining folk celebrations and marketing,
was launched with strong backing from the Taipei City
Government, and was an immediate success. From that
point, the old neighborhood was brilliantly transformed,
and a consensus developed around the preservation of
the old buildings and affirmation of the history and cul-
ture of this urban area that until then had been in decline.
Various factors prompted businesses there to pull out
all the stops to transform themselves. These included their
pride in Dadaocheng and a sense of mission to revitalize
its traditional industries, the neighborhood’s growing em-
brace of tourism, a changing consumer market, the emer-
gence of a new successor generation of business owners,
support for old shop renovations from the city govern-
ment, and innovative energy injected by the “Herbal
Party” events organized by the local business community.
Besides striving to retain old customers, local businesses
have proactively sought out new business opportunities.
As a result, new branding and packaging strategies
have emerged. Products often come with user instructions
in Japanese, English and Chinese, while smaller package
sizes targeted at small families and singles are becoming
more widely available. Then there are goods such as in-
stant ingredient pouches for medicinal cuisine, as well as
mulled wine spice mixes that are popular among younger
people. These have appeared in the wake of continual
changes in lifestyles and dietary trends. At the same time,
virtually every store has begun to offer online shopping.
Thanks to these new strategies, people have also dis-
covered that as TCM has gone beyond national boundar-
ies, there is a great deal of resonance with other cultures.
The commercial opportunities from contemporary life-
styles are also not to be underestimated.
“Those shops that have been able to survive in Da-
daocheng all have their own unique characteristics and
clientele,” says Chen Shih-che. The TCM ingredients
industry has been through its ups and downs over the
years, but still stands strong today. In the future, it will
operate in even more diverse ways to continue to support
Taiwanese in their daily lives. l
(Lynn Su/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/tr. by Phil Newell)
99
藝文脈絡 CULTURAL TRENDS

詩 畫 並 茂 ． 自 由 奔 放
畫家用一雙不尋常的眼睛，觀看眼前的世界。
即使世界是荒蕪一片的沙漠，畫家仍能從中找到美的路徑。
《畫家之眼》Andrew Loomis

擅寫生的黃鷗波，從大自然裡去觀察、感受，提煉自己的技法。
Huang was skilled in painting en plein air. He derived his techniques
from observing and feeling nature.

在相機尚未普及的年代，藝術家的眼睛就像攝像機，壯
闊風景、市井生活樣態都在他們的腦中成像，然後用他們
的畫筆呈現。出生嘉義的藝術家黃鷗波，一手作畫、一手
寫詩，他從生活中汲取靈感，作畫題材自由奔放，人文景
致、民俗采風、社會時事都凝結於畫布，他將對土地的關
懷寓情於畫，留下時代記憶。

時空來到1920、30年代的嘉義，1926年陳澄波以作品
〈嘉義街外〉入選「帝展」（帝國美術展覽會）；隔年，
「台展」（台灣美術展覽會）開辦，同樣出生嘉義的畫家
林玉山以〈水牛〉、〈大南門〉入選首屆台展，更在第四
屆台展以〈蓮池〉獲獎。此後十多年間，許多活躍於嘉義
藝壇的畫家如林東令、盧雲生、黃水文、張李德和等，皆
多次入選台、府展（台灣總督府美術展），《台灣日日新
報》甚至給了「嘉義乃畫都」的美稱。

黃鷗波用彩筆記錄台灣的民俗采風，〈家慶〉生動地描繪了傳統節慶食
物「紅龜粿」的製作。
Huang Ou-po used his brushes to document Taiwan’s folk customs. His
Family Celebration vividly depicts the process of making red tortoise cakes
for traditional festive occasions.

100
Intellectual Art
—Huang Ou-po’s Visions of Taiwan

“W e might say that a man could not move even ten feet without seeing some kind of beauty, provided he has
the eyes to see it. Even if this world had been but a barren desert, there still would have been beauty.”
—Andrew Loomis, The Eye of the Painter (1961)

Born and bred in Chiayi, Taiwan, Huang Ou-po (1917–2003) was a painter and poet who found inspiration
in everyday life. His paintings capture scenes of cultural interest, folk customs, and topical events in a free
and exuberant style. They embody his deep feelings for Taiwan and bear witness to the times he lived in.

101
 黃鷗波（前排左2）、
陳進（前排左5）、林
玉山（前排右4）等前
輩畫家們感情甚篤，
常相偕參展，也共組
畫會，彼此交流。
（賴添雲提供）。
Huang Ou-po (front row,
second left) was in close
contact with other senior
painters like Chen Chin
(front row, center) and
Lin Yushan (front row,
fourth right). They often
exhibited their works
and hosted art groups
together. (courtesy of
Lai Tian-yun)

而1917年出生於嘉義的黃鷗波，便是在畫都的
藝文薰陶中成長。

一個畫家的誕生

生於書香世家的黃鷗波，祖父是前清秀才，父
親也是儒學之士，自小便學習《四書》、《三字
經》、《千家詩》等，媽媽還會教他台語的「對
仔歌」，是黃鷗波詩詞格律的啟蒙，形塑他深厚
的文學底蘊。每當有客人來訪，小小年紀的黃鷗
波便會表演吟唱詩詞，總贏得滿堂彩。
因阿里山林業而繁盛的嘉義，其經濟發展帶動
了文化層面的提升，嘉義的詩社林立，仕紳們經
常款待藝文人士到家裡聚會。曾任台南州協議會
員、知名詩人賴雨若主理的「壺仙花果園」，即
是賴雨若闢了一處花園，設有如義塾的修養會，
教授經書、詩文，並經常邀請畫家來庭園寫生、
作畫。林玉山之子、故宮博物院前副院長林柏亭
便提到，日治時期嘉義的詩、畫家交流風氣盛，
而且畫家們不只興水墨，重彩（即膠彩）、寫生
也很擅長。當年17、18歲的黃鷗波，即是在壺仙
花果園結識了林玉山、黃水文、盧雲生等畫家。
其中林玉山與黃鷗波的緣分最深，兩人偶然發現
1960年代，黃鷗波偕妻女到郊外寫生。
黃鷗波的母親王娥是林玉山的遠房表姊，林玉山 Huang sketching outdoors with his wife and daughter in the 1960s.

102
 Let us travel back to the Chiayi of the 1920s and 1930s. In
1926, Chiayi-born oil painter Chen Cheng-po (1895–1947) re-
ceived the rare honor of exhibiting at the Japanese Imperial
Art Exhibition. In 1927 another Chiayi artist, Lin Yushan
(1907–2004), had two paintings selected for the inaugural
Taiwan Art Exhibition: Water Buffalo and Southern Gate. Lin
went on to win a prize at the fourth Taiwan Art Exhibition
in 1930 with his work Lotus Pond. The following decade or
so saw numerous painters who were active in Chiayi’s art
circles selected for the Taiwan Art Exhibition and the Tai-
wan Viceroy Art Exhibition, including Lin Dongling (1905–
2004), Lu Yunsheng (1913–1968), Huang Shuiwen (1914–2010),
黃鷗波入選省展的作品〈南薰〉，以近景且仰視的構圖，營造
檳榔花開時幽香芬芳的氛圍。
Huang’s Fragrance of the South, which was selected for the Taiwan
Provincial Art Exhibition, zooms in on the crowns of areca palms,
evoking the scent of areca flowers.
and Zhang-Li Dehe (1893–1972). Taiwan Nichinichi Shinpo—
Taiwan’s most widely circulated newspaper in the Japanese
colonial period—dubbed Chiayi a “town of painters.”
Born in Chiayi in 1917, Huang Ou-po was brought up in
the rich cultural landscape of this southwestern Taiwanese
town, where art and literature flourished.
The making of a painter
Huang was born into a family of intellectuals. He became
familiar with Classical Chinese prose and poetry at a tender
age and learned parallelistic verses in Taiwanese from his
mother. This early exposure to the rhythms and cadences of
traditional poetry gave Huang a firm literary grounding.
Owing its prosperity to Alishan’s timber industry,
Chiayi also enjoyed a cultural efflorescence, boasting
an array of poetry groups. Local gentry made a point of
inviting artists and writers to their homes to discuss cul-
ture. Huxian Orchard, for example, was created
and hosted by the influential poet Lai Yuruo
(1878–1941). This idyllic place functioned like a
free school, offering self-cultivation classes that
focused on Chinese classics, and artists were
welcome to come and paint en plein air. Lin Po-
ting, son of painter Lin Yushan and former dep-
uty director of the National Palace Museum, tells
us that in the Japanese era Chiayi’s poets and
painters were in close contact with each other.
He says that ink-wash painting—traditionally
espoused by Chinese literati—wasn’t the only
art form they practiced; they were also skilled
in plein air painting and nihonga (Japanese-style
painting using polychrome Asian gouache). It
was at Huxian Orchard that Huang Ou-po, then
aged 17 or 18, first met Lin Yushan, Huang Shui-
wen, Lu Yunsheng, and others. The cornucopia
of poetry and painting here, coupled with the
achievements of the Chiayi artists, encouraged
Huang to find his métier in art. Following in Lin
Yushan’s footsteps, he traveled to Tokyo and en-
rolled at Kawabata Art School.
Representing everyday life
After completing his studies, Huang remained
in Tokyo and worked as a graphic designer for a
magazine. He was subsequently enlisted by the
Japanese government to serve as a translator in
China. Living abroad in that turbulent age helped
sharpen Huang’s eyes and broaden his horizons.
103
等於是他的遠親表舅，也讓兩人關係更為深厚。 林柏亭以黃鷗波入選第三屆省展的作品〈南
在詩畫交融的藝文盛會中觀摩，再加上嘉義畫家 薰〉為例，取材自大家熟知的檳榔，但卻以常被
們在藝壇上的佳績，種下黃鷗波以畫家為職志的 人忽略的檳榔花為主角。一年僅開花一次的檳榔
種籽，之後更追隨林玉山的腳步，赴日本東京川 花色白又細小，雖然高掛樹幹容易被忽略，但據
端畫學校深造。 說檳榔花開時，會瀰漫滿山清香。黃鷗波以近景
且仰視的構圖，讓原本高掛樹上的檳榔花，移到
生活畫，畫生活
前方，彷彿攝影鏡頭向前放大鎖定，成了畫面的
在日本接受專業美術指導的黃鷗波，學習圓山 焦點，再佐以檳榔葉、籬笆當背景，來襯托點點
四條派畫風，重視寫生與筆墨濃淡變化，亦有嚴 如繁星的白花，「營造幽香的氣氛與詩境」，林
謹的素描訓練，為他的膠彩畫奠定紮實基礎。川 柏亭形容。
端畫學校卒業後，黃鷗波留在東京，擔任雜誌社 甫於去（2023）年12月出版《樸實．詩畫．
美術設計，之後曾被徵調至中國擔任通譯官，異 黃鷗波》美術家傳記叢書、現任屏東大學視覺藝
鄉生活、顛沛流離的戰時歷練，拓展了黃鷗波的 術系藝術講座教授的黃冬富認為，黃鷗波的作品
視野，練就觀察細膩的本領。 融合膠彩、水墨與西畫，秉持有容乃大的精神，
消融內化成自己的畫風，「他是直接從
大自然裡去感受，提煉出他的技法」，
雖然他的水墨技法不像其他名家那樣龍
飛鳳舞般華麗，但因為是 踏 實 地 去 觀
察、去表現，讓他的作品平易近人、
十分可親。
取材自對土地環境、生活的感受，讓
黃鷗波的作品透露出對在地的關照，黃
冬富認為，黃鷗波創作了許多具民俗采
風的繪畫，是與其他膠彩畫家較為不同
之處。
像是獲得第八屆省展教育會獎的作
品〈家慶〉，即是以台灣傳統節慶祭祀
的供品「紅龜粿」為題材。畫中坐在竹
凳上的老婦人正在做粿，修剪著盛放紅
龜粿的蕉葉，面前的竹篩上放著未染色
的白色糯米糰、紅番米染料、粿模等，
一旁還有裝著紅豆餡的木桶、整片的蕉
葉，一幅畫完整呈現了紅龜粿的製備，
有著濃濃台灣味。
黃鷗波之子、長流美術館館長黃承志
分享更多畫的細節，原來畫裡的老婦人
是自己的外祖母，曾經歷纏足的時代，
林玉山（上圖右）與黃鷗波（上圖左）是遠房舅甥，也是一生的好友，下
一代林柏亭（下圖右）、黃承志（下圖左）也十分友好。（上圖賴添雲提 因裹小腳而變形的腳丫子、一旁的繡花
供、下圖莊坤儒攝）
鞋、衣袖上的紋路、皺褶，婦人頭上的
Lin Yushan (upper photo, right) and Huang Ou-po (upper photo, left) were
distant relatives and friends for life. Lin’s son Po-ting (lower photo, right) and 髮飾，全被黃鷗波細膩地捕捉，更增添
Huang’s son Chen-chih (lower photo, left) are also good friends. (upper photo
courtesy of Lai Tian-yun; lower photo by Kent Chuang) 了作品的時代感。

104
 除了繪畫，黃鷗波也寫詩創作，還寫過劇本《秦少爺選妻》，才華洋溢。（上圖莊坤儒攝）
As well as being a painter, Huang Ou-po was a poet and playwright. He wrote a comedy in Taiwanese.
(photo above by Kent Chuang)
Lin Po-ting draws our attention to
Huang’s Fragrance of the South, which was
selected for the Taiwan Provincial Art
Exhibition in 1948. Huang’s subject mat-
ter here—areca (betel nut) palms—is fa-
miliar enough; what makes the painting
special is that it gives prominence to the
often-neglected areca flowers. It conjures
the fragrance that is said to permeate
the mountains when areca palms bloom.
Zooming in on the high crowns of the
palms, Huang allows the tiny flowers,
which are usually out of reach, to occupy
the foreground. The palm fronds and
fence that adorn the background serve to bring into focus
the white blossoms, as if these were myriad bright stars.
The painter thus “creates an aromatic atmosphere, a poetic
scene,” Lin says.
Professor Huang Tung-fu of the Department of Visual
Arts at National Pingtung University published a new
biography of Huang Ou-po in 2023. He says that Huang’s
works demonstrate a spirit of tolerance by blending to-
gether nihonga, Chinese ink-wash painting, and Western
art, assimilating these various traditions into his own ar-
tistic vision. “His feelings were inspired directly by nature,
and it was from there that he distilled his techniques.”
Huang’s style of ink wash may not be as flamboyant as
that of other celebrated painters, but his honest approach
to nature makes his paintings eminently accessible.
Huang’s Family Celebration, which won the Education
Association Prize at the Taiwan Provincial
Art Exhibition in 1953, portrays red tor-
toise cakes (ang ku kueh). With a red skin
made from glutinous rice flour and a sweet
filling, these oval-shaped delicacies are
common ritual offerings in Taiwan during
traditional festivities. In the painting, an
elderly woman seated on a bamboo stool is
cutting a banana leaf on which rests a red
tortoise cake. On the bamboo tray in front
of her are undyed glutinous rice dough,
red food coloring, and a cake mold. Next
to her are a wooden pail containing adzuki
bean paste, and a tub across which lies an
uncut banana leaf. In an economical manner, the painting
encapsulates the entire process of making red tortoise cakes
and exudes a distinctively Taiwanese charm.
Huang’s son Chen-chih, curator of Chan Liu Art Mu-
seum, further illuminates the details in his father’s painting.
The woman depicted here, he tells us, is actually his mater-
nal grandmother, who lived in an age when the practice of
footbinding was prevalent. The painting faithfully represents
her deformed little feet, as well as the embroidered slippers
next to her, the patterns and wrinkles on her clothes, and her
hair bun ornament. Rendered with loving attention, these
meticulously captured details express the spirit of the age.
The artist as intellectual
Always cheerful and outgoing, Huang Ou-po was not
only a painter, poet, teacher, and playwright but a social
commentator as well. Huang Tung-fu notes that many of his
105
 經濟局勢不穩的時代，讀書也難以求得溫飽，倒不
如學做生意來的實在，反映了當時的社會風氣。
而在1949年第四屆省展獲獎的作品〈地下錢
莊〉，則以民俗的角度巧妙地與社會呼應。畫中
裹著小腳的婦人，正擺攤賣冥紙，紙錢是台灣民
間信仰中，焚燒給長眠地下的祖先或好兄弟們的
冥幣，因此，黃鷗波用地下錢莊來妙喻，但實則
是暗諷當時台灣金融失序、物價膨脹，地下錢莊
猖獗的亂象。
除了畫中有話的弦外之音，林柏亭
表示，黃鷗波的畫作，有時也像是一幕
劇。林柏亭賞析了黃鷗波1956年的作品
〈勤守崗位〉，那年罕見的四月颱「賽
洛瑪」襲台，造成災情，黃鷗波在住家
附近看見電信人員爬上電線桿搶修，感
黃鷗波的畫中有話，〈地下錢莊〉看似描繪賣冥紙
的小攤，實則暗諷地下錢莊猖獗的亂象。 佩他們的敬業精神，便提筆速寫下這一
Huang’s paintings sometimes employ tongue-in-cheek
ploys. His Underground Bank shows a woman selling joss 幕。黃鷗波以地面仰望的視角，描繪颱
paper but is actually a satire on rampant loan-sharking.
風剛過，天空雖已放晴，但仍不時有強
風吹來的畫面，林柏亭表示，被風吹得
鼓起來的帆布，彷彿像是被掀起的布
畫中有話又有戲
幕，讓我們看見站在台上聚精會神搶修
曾當過美術設計、教學的黃鷗波，除了繪畫，他 的工人，「用一張畫表現出動感」。
的文字創作能量也十分豐沛，少有人知的是黃鷗波 站在黃鷗波的作品〈迎親〉前，黃冬富
曾被推舉擔任知名詩社「瀛社」的社長，從他經年 分享了他的賞析，這幅畫生動地描繪了台
累月親筆創作的詩集，能看到他在書法、詩詞上的 灣早期傳統迎親隊伍的樣貌，畫中的挑夫
造詣，黃鷗波甚至還寫過劇本！幽默逗趣的台語話 們扛著轎子、嫁妝，一行人浩浩蕩蕩地走
劇《秦少爺選妻》，即是他的創作，劇本裡的四句 在山坡上，前頭樸素的轎子是媒人坐的，
聯押韻，展現了台語文學結合韻文的本事，還因此 有鳳凰華麗裝飾的則是新娘乘坐的花轎。
獲得廣播節目播音員的機會，以現代的眼光來看， 黃冬富笑說，看得出畫家經過細膩的考
黃鷗波就是不折不扣的斜槓青年。 究，讓他聯想到小時候聽過的閩南語歌曲
個性爽朗的黃鷗波，不僅是畫家、詩人、教 〈內山姑娘要出嫁〉的歌詞：
師、編劇，也可謂是社會觀察家。黃冬富認為， 深山內迎花轎
黃鷗波的作品中，不少是帶有針砭世俗的意味， 鼓吹八音玲瓏叫
是他懷抱著知識分子的社會責任。黃鷗波生在動 內山的姑娘呀
盪的時局，卻始終抱著對社會的期待，積極入 坐轎要出嫁唷
世，他的畫中寄託著千言萬語。
例如，〈今之孟母〉畫著一個穿著開襠褲的小
童，跟著母親擺攤賣著水果、零嘴，畫上的題字寫
〈迎親〉生動地描繪了台灣早期傳統迎親隊伍的
著：「夫為斯文誤，慎防子亦然。擇居攤販市，教
樣貌。
學賣香煙。」黃鷗波運用孟母三遷的典故，昔日孟 Huang’s Welcoming the Bride depicts a traditional
wedding procession of a kind that used to be
母為讓孩子有好的讀書環境，不斷遷居；然而，在 common in Taiwan.

106
works contain elements of social criticism, reflecting his
sense of duty as an intellectual. The painter wove multi-
farious strands of thought into his art.
Huang’s Underground Bank, which won a prize at the
Taiwan Provincial Art Exhibition in 1949, is a case in
point. The woman in the painting, again with bound feet,
is selling stacks of joss paper at a stall. An essential part
of Taiwanese folk beliefs, joss paper is a type of spirit
money burned as offerings to the deceased in the under-
world. Huang painted the scene as a metaphor for the
financial chaos and rampant inflation of his time, when
“underground” loan-sharking was rife.
In addition to these tongue-in-cheek allusions, Huang’s
paintings, Lin Po-ting tells us, sometimes resemble theatri-
cal scenes. This is how Lin interprets Huang’s Dutiful Men
of 1956. That year Thelma, a rare April typhoon, grazed
Southern Taiwan and inflicted substantial damage. Near
his home, Huang saw telecommunications workers climb-
ing a utility pole to carry out emergency repairs. Moved
by their professionalism, he sketched the scene there and
107
 祝願膠彩畫如綠水長流

畢生創作膠彩畫的黃鷗波，也戮力於台灣膠彩畫
的發展。戰後台灣政權更迭，帶有日本色彩的膠彩
畫歷經了「正統國畫之爭」，壓縮了膠彩畫家的舞
台，甚至曾一度淡出省展。個性耿直的黃鷗波，選
擇了直球對決，數度提筆寫信給主辦單位的官方大
佬，論述膠彩畫所受到的不平等待遇，為膠彩畫家
爭取參展的機會。而1972年省展取消國畫第二部，
膠彩畫的發展受到嚴重打擊時，林玉山、陳進、陳
慧坤、林之助、黃鷗波、許深洲、蔡草如等知名膠

〈勤守崗位〉裡電信人員的表情和姿態，配上被強風吹起的
布幕，讓畫作充滿動感，彷彿一幕劇。
In Huang’s Dutiful Men, the postures and expressions of the
workers, together with the tarpaulin being lifted by the wind, are
full of energy, like a scene from a drama.

彩畫家則籌組了長流畫會，由黃鷗波擔任總幹事，
每年舉辦會員作品展，直到1980年省展恢復國畫第
二部，長流畫會的階段性任務完成才宣布解散，讓
台灣膠彩畫的發展得以延續。
提攜不少後進的黃鷗波，著名膠彩畫家劉耕
谷、汪汝同等都是他的學生。而自17歲跟著黃鷗
波學畫的賴添雲，直到黃鷗波離世，始終長伴在
側，近40年的相處，是跟著黃鷗波最久的學生。
回憶黃鷗波，賴添雲滿是感念，「老師的畫不炫
技，而是重內涵。」黃鷗波不只教學生畫畫，也
帶著學生吟詩、讀漢學，鼓勵他們充實內涵，當
有了內涵，同樣的山水，畫出來就有不同意境。
賴添雲跟著黃鷗波學畫、寫生，在黃鷗波邀集
林玉山、陳進等人成立綠水畫會時，他也義不容
辭擔任總幹事，協助會務的運作。賴添雲自比自
己這輩的膠彩畫家就像是臍帶，吸收來自黃鷗波
等前輩的滋養，並將之延續推廣。至今，綠水畫
會仍持續每年舉辦公開徵件，並以前輩膠彩畫家
之名設置獎項，如林玉山賞、陳進賞、黃鷗波賞
等，紀念前輩並鼓勵後進。近年，還會進入校園
出生嘉義的黃鷗波，用畫筆記錄阿里山的林業歲月，圖為作
品〈木馬行空〉，描繪工人拖著運具，奮力向前的姿態。
展覽、教學，向學子們散播膠彩畫的種籽。
Born in Chiayi, Huang recorded Alishan’s timber industry 前人已遠離，逝去的時代雖來不及參與，但我們
through painting. His Wooden Horse in the Air depicts a laborer
strenuously pulling a tree trunk. 仍能從黃鷗波的作品中，看到繽紛多彩的台灣。 l

108
then. His finished painting adopts an upward-looking
perspective; the sky has cleared after the typhoon, but
there are still powerful gusts of wind. Lin says that the
billowing tarpaulin in the painting looks like a curtain in
a theater, being lifted to reveal the men laboring away at
their repair work on the “stage” of their work site. Huang,
says Lin, “achieves a sense of movement in this painting.”
Standing in front of his father’s Welcoming the Bride,
Huang Tung-fu tells us this is a vivid representation of a
type of wedding pro-
cession that was com-
mon in Taiwan. The
men in the painting are
carrying traditional lit-
ters, together with the
bride’s dowry. At the
head of the procession
is a plain palanquin
for the matchmaker.
Be h i nd, t he or n ate
litter with a phoenix
on its roof is for the
bride. Huang Tung-fu
賴添雲（左）感念與黃鷗波（右）近40年的師生情，矢志將黃鷗波對膠彩
says this work is evi- 畫、吟詩的熱情傳承下去。（賴添雲提供）
dently under pinned Huang Ou-po (right) was Lai Tian-yun’s (left) teacher. They remained friends
for nearly 40 years. Grateful to Huang, Lai vows to pass down his passion for
by the painter’s careful nihonga and poetry. (courtesy of Lai Tian-yun)
researc h; t he scene
reminds him of a Taiwanese song he used to hear as a child,
about a girl from a mountain village traveling to her wedding.
The survival of Taiwanese nihonga
After World War II, the Republic of China took over Tai-
wan from Japan. Nihonga, which carried a strong Japanese
flavor, was embroiled in a debate over whether it could be
legitimately categorized under Chinese—or “national”—
painting, and nihonga painters in Taiwan found their creative
freedom curtailed by the ideology that the government
embraced. For a while, they were even cold-shouldered by
the selectors at the Taiwan Provincial Art Exhibition. Never
afraid to speak his mind, Huang Ou-po wrote to the organiz-
ers several times, detailing the unfair treatment imposed on
nihonga painters and advocating for their inclusion. In 1972,
when the Taiwan Provincial Art Exhibition canceled the
nihonga category (“National Painting II”), Taiwanese nihonga
suffered a terrible blow. It was then that renowned nihonga
painters, including Lin Yushan, Chen Chin (1907–1998), Chen
Huei-kuhn (1907–2011), Lin Chih-chu (1917–2008), Huang
Ou-po, Hsu Shen-chou (1918–2005), and Tsai Cao-ju (1919–
2007), established the Chanliu Art Society, with Huang serv-
ing as executive secretary. They held annual exhibitions of
members’ works, ensuring the survival of Taiwanese nihonga.
Huang was assiduous in supporting emerging artists.
Among his students were Liu Geng-gu (1940–2006) and
Wang Ru-tung (1934–1963), both of them important painters
who inherited nihonga traditions. Of all Huang’s students,
Lai Tian-yun (b. 1948) spent the longest time with him,
from age 17 till Huang
passed away in 2003.
Lai remembers Huang
w it h fond ne s s a nd
gratitude: “Rather than
showing off his tech-
niques in his paintings,
he focused on their
intellectual content.”
Huang not only taught
his students to paint
but also recited poetry
and studied Chinese
classics wit h t hem.
Enriching the mind,
Huang believed, helped
enrich one’s artistic
vision.
When Huang cofounded the Taiwan Greenwater
Gouache Painting Society with Lin Yushan, Chen Chin,
and others, Lai took on the role of executive secretary. He
compares his generation of Taiwanese nihonga painters to
umbilical cords absorbing the nutrients bequeathed by
older artists like Huang. Lai and his fellow painters seek to
perpetuate their predecessors’ legacies. Today, Greenwater
announces an open call for exhibition entries every year,
encouraging the creation of new paintings and celebrat-
ing the achievements of the older generations by naming
prizes after senior nihonga painters, such as Huang and Lin
Yushan. In recent years, Greenwater has also promoted ni-
honga by holding displays and workshops at local schools.
Huang Ou-po’s passing marked the end of an era, and
we may never fully recover the splendors of his times.
Nevertheless, his paintings continue to open for us a win-
dow on Taiwan in all its colorful exuberance. l
(Chen Chun-fang/photos courtesy of Chan Liu Art
Museum/tr. by Brandon Yen)
109
產業新創 ENTREPRENEURSHIP

鄧慧純攝
photo by Cathy Teng

毛孩時代， 文•鄧慧純

親暱關係 圖•莊坤儒
版面設計•劉俊良
鄧慧純攝
photo by Cathy Teng

在商場逛街，從推車裡探出頭的不是嫩嬰，而是毛茸茸的柴犬或柯基。社群媒體上，大家都愛秀出
自家毛小孩的萌照；毛孩網紅更是人氣紅不讓，不管是貓派的白吉、陳明珠、拉查花、黃阿瑪，還是
犬派的柴犬奈奈、連環泡有芒果、胖胖糖集團，不僅是萌度破表，還超級療癒，線上線下，大家都享
受毛孩的陪伴，不亦樂乎！

根據農業部寵物登記管理資訊網站統計，台灣
犬、貓登記數量逐年上升，2023年已經超過300
萬隻，超越全台15歲以下孩童人口數。人與動物
的關係益發親密，隨之而來的消費力也不容小
覷，毛孩的生活細節，從飲食、醫療、遊樂、照
顧等面向，都有人投入，用創意的方式，提出解
決方案。
毛孩經濟看漲
資策會MIC產業分析師汪盈利說起全球的寵物
市場超過2,300億美金，美國是全球第一大的寵物
市場，根據調查，美國約有七成的家庭都有飼養
寵物，從飼主的年齡層來看，養寵物比例最高的
是千禧世代（1980、1990年代出生者），約佔三
成，再來是戰後嬰兒潮世代（1946∼1964年），
然後是X世代（1965∼1980年）。
「不同的年齡層，大家消費習慣會不一樣，也
反應在飼養寵物的消費上。」汪盈利解釋：「千
禧世代的飼主將寵物看作是家人，養寵物就像照
顧小孩一般，飼養模式比較精緻化、多元化。」

110
 鄧慧純攝
photo by Cathy Teng

Contemporary Pet Care: The Fur Baby Economy

H ave you recently glimpsed a baby in a stroller? Nowadays, it’s as likely to be a shiba inu, corgi, or some
other canine “fur baby” as a child. People regularly post cute pictures of their pets on social media, and
many animals are Internet stars in their own right. There’s no doubt that pets are cute, but did you know they
are also therapeutic? It’s wonderful that we can now enjoy the companionship of fur babies, both online and off!

According to the Ministry of Agriculture’s Pet Reg-

istration Information System, Taiwanese dog and cat
registrations have been climbing for years and in 2023
exceeded 3 million, which is more than Taiwan’s popu-
lation of children under the age of 16. Recognizing that
people are getting closer to their pets and spending
more money on them, businesses are tapping into the
resultant demand with creative food, healthcare, and en-
tertainment offerings for pets.
The fur-baby economy
Ali Wang, an analyst with the Institute for Informa-
tion Industry’s Market Intelligence & Consulting Institute
(MIC), tells us that the global pet economy is currently
worth more than US$230 billion. In the US, the world’s
largest pet market, an estimated 70% of households have
pets, with Millennials owning the largest share of these
animals (30%), and Baby Boomers the second largest.
“Different age groups spend money differently, and
pet-related consumption reflects this,” says Wang. She
explains: “Millennial pet owners view pets as family
鄧慧純攝 members and provide more attentive and varied care,
photo by Cathy Teng
managing their pet care much like childcare.”

111
譬如願意帶寵物去看醫生、上課，幫毛小孩準備 發智慧貓砂盆，能藉由糞便找到病徵，讓飼主
天然的鮮食，還備有許多零食、玩具。 能及早發現毛小孩的生理狀況。深耕國內市場
台灣寵物市場的發展也跟隨著美國的趨勢。 的毛小愛，則用線上與線下的整合，提供寵物
汪盈利聊到2021年時，資策會MIC曾針對新世代 保母的在地服務。
（1991年後出生者）進行調查，發表《新世代
寵物消費趨勢》報告，發現飼主每個月花費在犬
貓上的預算是2,000元，但實際上的花費達3,000 讓人好、
元，比預期多了50%，汪盈利解釋，若以2022年 毛孩也好的
毛小愛
底全台犬貓數量約220萬隻，台灣的寵物市場一
年可以上看800億新台幣。

用科技當毛爸媽的好幫手
共享的寵物保母
新世代對新科技的接受度高，用科技輔助、
抱著跟她一起從美國回來的狗狗S k y e，陳思
用創新點子來解決毛小孩爸媽遭遇的問題，蔚
璇聊起創辦「毛小愛」的初心。2019年她結束美
為趨勢。
台灣業者有從毛爸媽經驗出發，如Furbo開發 國的事業回國，自己也是毛孩飼主，總會遇到旅

的360度視角的寵物攝影機，讓飼主能隨時透過 遊或工作時毛孩托育的問題。在美國很方便很輕

手機app與狗孩們互動，還能遠端丟零食，產品 鬆，用app預約，就能找到同樣喜愛毛小孩、又住
目前已外銷全球12國。還有Lulupet用AI技術開 在附近，時間能配合的寵物保母到府照顧；台灣

112
 Taiwan’s pet market has tracked trends in the US.
Wang says that an MIC survey of people born in or
after 1991 found that pet owners budgeted NT$2,000
per month for their dogs and cats, but actually spent
NT$3,000 per month, 50% more than their budgets.
Based on this figure, Taiwan’s pet market could be
worth as much as NT$80 billion per year.
Technological assistance
Taiwan’s younger generation is also very comfort-
able with technology and is turning more and more to
technological aids and innovations to solve pet-related
problems.
Taiwanese businesses see opport unities in t he
needs of these “fur parents.” Furbo has developed a
360-degree pet camera that enables pet owners to inter-
act with their pets whenever they like via a cellphone
app. They can even use the product, which is cur-
rently available in 12 countries, to toss treats to them
remotely! And Lulupet has developed an AI- enabled
cat box that can detect markers of disease in cat waste,
which could provide pet owners with an early warning
of potential health problems.
Benefiting
pets and pet
owners alike
A platform for pet sitters
Candace Chen tells us about Fluv, the pet-care plat-
form she founded, with her dog Skye in her arms. Chen
says that after leaving her job in the US and returning
to Taiwan with Skye in 2019, she had difficulty finding
care for her fur baby when work or travel kept her away
from home.
After talking to friends and learning that the problem
was common, she reflected on her experience in the US,
where pet sitters often care for animals in their owners’
homes. Such arrangements have definite advantages:
they keep pets in a familiar environment when their
owners are away, let the owners themselves rest easy,
and provide pet sitters with an extra source of income.
“It’s a win–win that helps both people and animals. So I
把寵物當作小孩一般照顧，飼養模
式日趨精緻化、多元化，衍生的商
機亦可觀。
The trend towards treating pets
like children by offering them more
attentive care and more diverse
activities creates opportunities for
businesses.
113
 毛小愛的寵物保母到府服務，每個照護細節都要拍照。（毛小愛提供）
Fluv’s pet sitters offer home visits and record the care they provide. (courtesy of Fluv)

則多是傳統的解決方式，但親朋好友總有不方便 格把關寄宿家庭的空間，規定不能關籠，狗狗在
的時候，也非所有的毛小孩都適應寵物旅館的環 飼主家裡怎麼被照料，在保母家就是同等規格。
境。 為保障寵物與保母的權益，毛小愛堅持狗、貓和
陳思璇訪談了周遭友人，發現這是毛孩爸媽共 保母都納入保險；是這些細微的貼心與服務，讓
同的擔憂，她想到了美國的經驗，讓寵物保母到 毛小愛能透過共享的商業模式，在市場上深具優
飼主家照顧，毛小孩不用離開熟悉的環境，飼主 勢。
也能安心託付，保母又可有額外的收入，「可以
台美的文化差異
幫助到人和動物，這樣雙贏的局面，再借助科技
的輔助，我就想創立『毛小愛』，顧名思義是讓 毛小愛如今有超過10萬的註冊用戶，到府服
每個毛小孩被愛的平台。」 務的保母有5,000多位，提供寵物住宿的有500多
先從媒合寵物和寵物保母開始，一開始主力是 處。看數字亮眼，但陳思璇說，2020年一創業就
貓咪的到府服務，養過貓的都知道要讓貓咪出門 碰到疫情，公司幾乎快要撐不下去了；直到提供
難度有多高，陳思璇笑著說明；但要讓保母進到 幫確診者無接觸遛狗的服務，才讓毛小愛存活下
飼主家中，這服務奠基的關鍵是「信任」。 陳 來。
思璇把美國的經驗移植到台灣，要擔任毛小愛的 疫情期間，毛小愛曾接到求助的電話，飼主在
保母，需經過審核，熟悉毛小孩的習性是必要 電話那頭焦慮地哭了，因為確診，無法如常出門
條件，並且要通過線上的訓練及測驗。建置完整 遛狗讓小狗上廁所，狗狗快憋死了，「在疫情期
的SOP服務流程，進到飼主家，每一項作業如餵 間，我們發展出無接觸的到府服務。飼主把狗狗
食、清便便都用app拍照回報，讓飼主安心。貓咪 繫上牽繩，掛在門外，保母穿著防護衣，帶毛小
的市場穩妥了，才開發狗狗的寄宿安親服務；嚴 孩出門，過程中都確實消毒，所有的程序都用app

114
decided to use technology to establish Fluv, a platform dog-walking services to people with confirmed Covid
that enables every fur baby to get the care it needs.” diagnoses got it through that difficult time.
Fluv began by matching pets with sitters, focusing The idea emerged when the company received an
first on drop-in visits for cats. Since trust is key to a busi- anxious call for help from a tearful fur parent. The pet
ness that involves arranging for unfamiliar people to owner had tested positive for Covid and was unable
come into your home, Chen drew on her US experience to take their dog outdoors to relieve itself. “The call
once again by requiring Fluv’s pet sitters to undergo inspired us to develop no-contact at-home services. Pet
background checks, understand pet care, participate owners would put their dog on a leash and hang the
in online training and take tests. She also established leash outside their door, enabling a masked dog-walker
comprehensive standard operating procedures for the to take it for a walk without coming into direct contact
company’s services. Once Fluv had steady income from with the owner.
its cat care business, it began developing dog boarding
services. The company provides insurance for dogs,
cats and pet sitters alike to protect the interests of pets
and pet sitters. Fluv’s attention to detail and quality of
service have enabled its gig-economy business model to
establish a strong position in the Taiwan market.
Cultural differences
Fluv recently surpassed 100,000 registered users,
and has more than 5,000 pet-sitters available for drop-in
visits and more than 500 boarding locations. The num-
bers are astonishing, but Chen says that the arrival of
the pandemic just after Fluv’s 2020 founding nearly
put the company out of business. Providing no-contact

寵物保母的服務可以幫助到人和動物，創造雙贏的局面。
（毛小愛提供）
Pet-care services are a win–win for pets and their owners.
(courtesy of Fluv)

115
 先見過面，聊過天，所以我們的媒合一定會有一
個家訪，相見歡的儀式。」

科技助攻，解析數據資料

毛小愛的客戶年齡層約25∼45歲左右，「我們
用科技的方式創造工作機會，並且運用科技做最
佳的配對，當使用者輸入住家資訊及毛小孩的資
料，透過建置完成的資料庫，就能迅速媒合適合
的配對。」陳思璇說。到府服務的保母以學生和
上班族兼職居多，居家照顧則以家庭主婦為主，
若是具有寵物美容師或是獸醫助理身分的保母，
毛小愛利用科技輔助，後台資料庫能迅速媒合適合的配對，
更能收集數據，未來可運用在寵物保險或照護上。 系統會媒合需要特殊照護的毛小孩。在保母審核
（毛小愛提供）
Fluv’s database quickly matches clients and care providers. It 流程上，更運用AI抓取受試者回答的關鍵字，識
also collects pet data that it hopes to use one day for insurance
or other pet-care applications. (courtesy of Fluv)
別是否具備毛小愛需要的特質，用科技解決，都
是這年輕團隊在科技運用的強項。
也如同汪盈利所說，寵物科技近年成為重要的
拍照，」陳思璇轉述當時的景象，飼主從大樓的 發展項目，乃因為結合了數位科技，能把寵物生
窗子向下探頭，看著自己的狗小孩總算可以出門 命周期的數據都收集起來，藉此分析寵物的健康
解放了，這場景如朱自清的〈背影〉一般催淚。 狀態，這對業者來說，是趨勢也是商機。陳思璇
聊到台灣與美國毛孩與飼主間關係，陳思璇提 心中也有同樣的藍圖：「藉由寵物照顧資料的收
出了有趣的觀察，美國把寵物當作best friends， 集，我們擁有毛小孩平日吃喝拉撒睡的狀況，知
台灣的情況則是把毛孩當孩子一般，而有像養貓 道犬貓的類別、餵食的乾糧等等的生活資訊，當
的飼主稱自己為「貓奴」、「鏟屎官」，或是自 累積到足夠的資料後，就可以運用在寵物保險或
稱是毛爸媽這樣的趣談。還有服務上的差異， 是預防性的AI照護。雖然要花很多年的時間去蒐
「在美國可以不用見面，每一筆交易就是買一個 集，但這是我們未來的目標。」
服務。台灣則是很重人情，要託付毛小孩一定要

陳思璇創立毛小愛，要讓每個毛
小孩被愛。
Candace Chen founded Fluv to
ensure that every fur baby gets the
care it needs.

116
 毛小愛是個年輕團隊，善用科技解決毛小孩的照護問題。
Fluv’s young team excels at using technology to solve pet-care problems.
Speaking about differences in the relationships be-
tween fur babies and their owners in Taiwan and the
US, Chen makes an interesting observation. She tells us
that Americans regard their pets as best friends, while
Taiwanese see them as children, and Taiwanese cat own-
ers refer to themselves as “cat slaves” and “official poop
cleaners.” There are differences in the services too, with
Taiwanese placing an emphasis on a relationship with
the care provider: “They want to meet and talk with a
sitter or walker before entrusting their fur baby into the
person’s care, so our matchmaking always involves a
preliminary home visit, like a meeting ceremony.”
Analyzing data
Fluv’s young team excels at applying tech to solve
problems. Chen tells us that Fluv’s customers are gen-
erally 25–45 years old and says, “We use tech to create
work opportunities and quickly match customers with
the most appropriate care providers.” The company also
uses tech in the pet-sitter application process, using AI
to search for keywords in sitter applications to identify
applicants who have the traits Fluv is looking for.
Pet tech has become an active area of development in
recent years. The pet-care industry’s utilization of data
technology enables it to track stage-of-life information
that can be used to analyze a pet’s health, which could
provide business opportunities. Chen is already think-
ing about the possibilities: “Collecting pet-care data
means we can monitor what a pet is eating, drinking,
and excreting on a daily basis, as well as its sleep and
activity levels. We also know its breed and how much it
is fed. Once we have enough data, it will become useful
for pet-insurance or AI-based preventive-care applica-
tions. This is our long-term goal, even though we know
it will take years to collect sufficient data.”
117
 拼圖喵中途之家，戮力與社會大眾溝通生命平權的議題，並堅持要人好，貓才會好。
Puzzle Cat Home tries to communicate the equality of all living creatures.

給自足，達成「貓種菜、菜養人、人護貓」的正
向循環。
拼圖喵：
歡樂的貓中 人好，貓才會好
途之家
套用時下流行語「自己的罐罐自己賺」，但
這樣的打趣背後，陳人祥直言自己是「別有用
心」。
自己的罐罐自己賺 社會上眾多的公民倡議，必然有排擠效應，
每個人也有其關注的優先順序，但難免有人會把
毛孩經濟行情看俏，但在台灣也有貓咪可以自
人與動物放在天平兩端，權衡其輕重。陳人祥認
己拚經濟。
為，生命平權的議題如同減塑、海廢、地球暖化
一早走進拼圖喵貓中途之家，工作人員正在清
一般，是不可規避的公共議題，不適宜這樣對
理貓砂，這些貓糞是別有用途的。陳人祥經營拼
圖喵貓中途之家已經九年多了，曾經遇上資金短 比。但實際的現況是，許多人勞心勞力地長年投

缺，他從國外的案例「取狗便來做發電」得到靈 入動物保護運動，卻換得其他不同立場者的冷嘲

感，想到貓糞應該也可另有用途，於是自己跳下 熱諷。陳人祥選擇用歡樂的氛圍來溝通，想讓更

來研發，把貓糞加入特製的酵素，再以高溫滅菌 多人參與關心生命平權的議題，不要一言不合就
及低速運轉的方式製成貓糞肥，以契作的方式跟 退出，更不輕忽路途上任何一份的努力；遇有爭
小農合作，收購他們生產的米和茶，販售後的收 議時，更應該陪著一起消化情緒的意氣用事，只
益再轉為中途之家運用，而成了「貓便當菜」、 有如此才能凝聚共識一起向前走。
「貓便當茶」的專案。 因此在拼圖喵的專案中都可看見他細膩地去
貓咪在中途之家不再只是單純被照顧、等待認 關心不同立場者的心情，舉「貓你老師」專案為
養，拼圖喵的每一隻貓咪都參與了永續循環，自 例，當今社會上的氛圍總不斷強調飼主的責任，

118
 Cat rescue:
Puzzle Cat Home
Paying their own way
We arrive at Taipei cat rescue Puzzle Cat Home to find
a worker cleaning the litter boxes, collecting cat feces that
will be put to an unusual use. Impelled by a shortage
of operating funds and inspired by an article he’d read
about a foreign organization generating power from dog
poop, Puzzle Cat founder Chen Jen-hsiang decided to
find a use for the organization’s cat feces. He eventually
discovered that a combination of certain enzymes and
high heat could turn cat poop into fertilizer. Chen subse-
quently signed agreements with several small farmers to
exchange the fertilizer for a share of the rice and tea they
produce with it. Puzzle Cat then sells this produce under
its own brand, using the proceeds to support the rescue.
This system enables every cat at Puzzle Cat Home
to help support itself via a sustainable cycle: the cats
produce waste that helps grow food, the food nourishes
people, and the people care for the cats.
Good for people, good for cats
For all that it’s good to have the cats “paying their
own way,” Chen admits to an ulterior motive.
He says that most citizen initiatives have a crowding
out effect because people are unable to focus on more
than a few things at a time. But Chen believes that equal
treatment for all living things is as important a public
（左圖）拼圖喵是設在市中心的貓中途之家，大片的玻璃落
地窗，讓路人從外頭就可瞧見裡頭一隻隻貓咪閒適的姿態。
(left) Puzzle Cat Home’s French window allows passersby to see
the rescue cats relaxing inside.
（下圖）「拼圖喵」名稱的由來，是希望幫愛滋貓正名，每
個生命都該被好好對待。
(below) Puzzle Cat Home was created to reestablish the good
name of cats with feline immunodeficiency virus.
119
這反而成為一種壓力，偶有新手飼主遭遇跟貓咪 愛滋貓是貓免疫缺陷病毒（f e l i n e i m m u n o-
相處的問題，上網求助卻只得到網友的訕笑與批 deficiency virus， FIV）所感染的；但跟人的愛滋
評，這可能是造成棄養的因素之一。因此他鼓勵 不一樣，這種疾病不會傳染給人，愛滋貓也不需
大家要能理解，有同理心，「貓你老師這個專案 要長期投藥，當作一般貓照顧就好。只是人們總
就是要跟大家說，我們應該要勇於求助，去幫助 會因名稱而排拒，陳人祥想著幫牠們正名，「有
有困難的朋友。」 沒有什麼東西在我們日常生活中是不完整的東
「講動物權益或者生命平權這些事情很重要， 西，但我們對他不會有負面的感受，而覺得這很
但也可能很烏托邦，」陳人祥說得嚴肅，「因此 正常？」他想到了總是缺一角的「拼圖」，而這
我們更要從雲端下來，接地氣，討論實際上能夠 也像拼圖喵在做的事情，幫貓咪找家，讓人和貓
做些什麼。」因為，「只有人好，貓才會好。」 就像拼圖一般，找到可以相契合的一片。
其實，陳人祥最初是經營貓旅館，但貓旅館也
在市區中心呼喊生命平權
非日日見客，就加減做貓中途的服務，剛開始想
位在市區內的「拼圖喵」中途之家，擁有大片 得簡單，「我想說貓咪沒有家，我就幫牠找家就
的玻璃落地窗，讓路人從外頭就可瞧見裡頭一隻 好了。」後來發現不然，應該從更源頭思考，該
隻貓咪閒適的姿態。進到室內，志工簡要地介紹 溝通的是生命平權的觀念，「因此，我認為要有
目前收容近60多口貓，空間區隔成隔離房、大貓 一個地方，是大家方便到達，而且是對動物、對
房和愛滋貓房。陳人祥就在愛滋貓房裡說起「拼 人都和善，讓大家願意來訪的場所。」 所以，他
圖喵」的起源：「拼圖喵是我們想要替這些愛滋 獨排眾議，就把拼圖喵中途之家就設在人口稠密
貓正名用的。」 的永和區。拼圖喵在永和區經營了九年多，陳人
祥唯一接過的投訴電話是來自對面住家，因為他
把落地窗前的貓跳台換了方位，「讓她沒辦法看
貓了。」只好從善如流，再把貓跳台復位，這話
一出，引得大家哄堂大笑。

陳人祥研發貓糞肥，並將收益轉為中途之家運用，也讓貓咪
參與了永續循環，自給自足。（拼圖喵提供）
Chen Jen-hsiang developed a fertilizer made from cat poop. The
proceeds from sales help support Puzzle Cat Home, making
the cats more environmentally sustainable and self-supporting.
(courtesy of Puzzle Cat Home)

120
issue as plastic use, marine waste and global warming.
He chooses to communicate about the issue in a positive
way in hope of persuading others to take an interest in
it. He doesn’t drive people away with confrontation and
tries not to ignore any contribution, no matter how small.
He argues that the only way for people to work together
and make progress is for everyone to take a breath and
calm down whenever conflict begins to rear its head.
“It’s important to talk about things like animal rights
and equal treatment for all living things,” says Chen,
“but it’s also probably kind of utopian to do so. We have
to pull our heads out of the clouds and bring ourselves
back down to earth to talk about what we can do on a
practical level.” Simply put, “Things have to be good for
people before they can be good for cats.”
Advocating for the equality of life
Puzzle Cat Home currently has nearly 60 cats in resi-
dence in an urban interior space split between isolation
rooms, a large cat room, and a feline immunodeficiency
拼圖喵的活動滿是創意與歡樂，「貓便當菜」、「貓便當
virus (FIV) room. 茶」，連名稱都充滿喜感。
Though sometimes referred to as feline AIDS, FIV is Puzzle Cat’s programs are innovative and upbeat. Even the
names of its products—Cat Poop Rice and Cat Poop Tea—
very different from human AIDS and is not contagious are fun.
to people. Cats with the disease do not require long-term
pharmaceutical treatment and can be cared for just like sically functioned as a “halfway house” for cats. But he
any other cat. But the disease’s name does lead many came to realize that his organization needed to address
people to reject cats infected by it. Chen’s aim for Puzzle a more fundamental issue: communicating the idea of
Cat Home is to rehabilitate the reputation of cats with equality for all living things. “I decided that I needed
the disease. “Don’t we have things in our everyday lives a place that was easy to get to and welcoming for both
that we think positively about in spite of their imperfec- animals and people, so that people would want to visit.”
tions?” What always comes to mind for him is a puzzle With that in mind, he established Puzzle Cat Home in
missing a piece. He says Puzzle Cat Home helps cats New Taipei’s densely populated Yonghe District. In its
find homes, treating people and cats like jigsaw puzzles nine years in the area, the rescue has received only one
and helping them find the piece that makes them whole. complaint—from a neighbor who was disappointed that
Chen started the cat rescue as a “cat hotel” that ba- he’d moved the cat tree away from a French window,
because “she was no longer able to see the cats.” At her
request, he moved it back so she could see the cats again.
Empathy for other creatures
When asked about social-media posts showing people
having a great time playing with dogs and cats, Chen

121
同理不同形狀的生命，拼圖喵讓每隻貓咪都做自己。
Puzzle Cat Home’s broad empathy for other creatures allows its cats to be themselves.

同理不同形狀的生命 offers a positive take: “Taiwan’s ‘animal consciousness’ is

a work in progress.” He then adds, “I’m seeing some dif-
看到社群媒體上，人跟犬貓玩得不樂乎，我們 ferent voices slowly emerging, including those of groups
詢問陳人祥的看法， 他給了正面的回覆：「台灣 passionate about different kinds of animals. In an effort
的動物意識正在前進的路上」，更進一步，「我慢 to foster a positive understanding of these animals, mem-
慢的看到一些不一樣的聲音萌芽，像有熱愛其他物 bers of these groups are sharing their personal feelings
種的族群會跑出來，比如說『昆蟲擾西吳沁婕』， online in ways that are easy for others to grasp.”
Such efforts can foster empathy for other living things.
還有許多關心各類動物的朋友，為了讓大家獲得正
Chen mentions a cat named Omi that has been returned to
確的知識，把自己內在的東西轉化成深入淺出的內
the rescue twice after failed adoptions. In both cases, the
容，在網路上的各種分享，你會看到如此的百花齊
problem wasn’t with the adopters but with Omi, who has
放。」 simply decided that Puzzle Cat is his home. “It wasn’t my
而這樣的認識，更能讓我們同理不同形狀的生 decision,” says Chen, “it was Omi’s. This is an instance of
命，陳人祥就舉他手中抱著的歐咪，說起牠的故 me slowly learning from the cats, who want me to get over
事。歐咪曾經兩度被收養，但是又回到中途之家， my self-important human-centric way of thinking.”
不是飼主的問題，而是歐咪自己認定哪邊才是家， We visited Puzzle Cat Home on a warm day and noted
that every one of its cats had found a patch of sunlight in
「這件事情不是我說了算，而是歐咪說了算。這也
which to groom itself. Our time at the rescue introduced
是我在這邊慢慢地被這些貓咪調教，要我慢慢收起
us to living creatures acting according to their own voli-
自大的人類本位的想法。」陳人祥說。 tion and taught us empathy for beings unlike ourselves.
採訪當天，陽光和煦，每隻喵都找了一塊陽 Puzzle Cat Home is a good first step along the path to
光，自在的理毛。在這邊我們看見生命的自由，學 Chen’s goal. l
習同理不同形狀的生命，而拼圖喵就是那眾多的一 (Cathy Teng/photos by Kent Chuang/
個起點。 □ tr. by Scott Williams)

122
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Shindigs and Solemnity in Taiwan

台灣青春紀事
平裝 Paperback US$16 本
Days of Being Wild: Youth Culture in Taiwan

台灣好滋味
平裝 Paperback US$12 本
A Taste of Taiwan

心南向．一家人
平裝 Paperback US$15 本
Bonds of Friendship, Bonds of Love—Taiwan and Southeast Asia

台灣意象
平裝 Paperback US$20 本
Taiwan in the Mind's Eye: Stories and Images of Taiwan

美．台灣：人文攝像集
精裝 Hardback US$20 本
Ilha Formofa!—The Beautiful Isle!

天使傳愛：天主教在台灣
平裝 Paperback US$20 本
Angels of Love: Catholicism in Taiwan

合計
本
Total

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中華民國台灣台北復興橋郵政第8-398號信箱
P.O. Box 8-398 Taipei Fuxing Bridge Taipei City 10099, Taiwan, ROC

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總計（含掛號郵資）
Total (including postage)
 建議售價
NT$150
US$5
HK$40
GPN: 2006500016 ¥600