9/29/22, 1:40 PM Spaghetti All'Assassina | Cook's Illustrated

Spaghetti All'Assassina
SERVES Serves 4

TIME 1¼ hours

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

The defining aspects of this hyperlocal dish from Bari, Italy, are
spaghetti strands with textures that run from soft to al dente to
crisp (even within a single strand) and a spicy, concentrated
tomato sauce that clings tightly to the pasta. To achieve these
hallmarks, we started by including a generous amount of extra-
virgin olive oil in a simple sauce of garlic, red pepper flakes, and
passata di pomodoro (uncooked tomato puree). We then added
raw spaghetti to the sauce in a skillet, followed periodically by
cupsful of a simple tomato broth (tomato paste diluted with
water). Each time the pan threatened to dry out, we added more
broth. We made sure not to stir the pasta too much as it turned
tender and started to crisp and char in spots. To finish the
delicious, deeply satisfying dish, we turned the heat to full blast
so that some of the strands could develop a smoky char.

INGREDIENTS BEFORE YOU BEGIN

6 cups water
* This recipe was developed with our winning
spaghetti, De Cecco Spaghetti No. 12. Other brands of
¼ cup tomato paste
spaghetti may vary in thickness, which will affect the
1 teaspoon sugar cooking time and the amount of broth required. Fish
spatulas work well for flipping the pasta in step 4. Passata
⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons
is an uncooked tomato puree; we used Pomì brand. If you
extra-virgin olive oil,
cannot find it, tomato puree can be used. For a spicier dish,
divided
use ¾ teaspoon of red pepper flakes. The sauce will
2 garlic cloves, minced splatter as it cooks, which is why we call for using a long-
https://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/15027-spaghetti-all-assassina/print 1/3
9/29/22, 1:40 PM Spaghetti All'Assassina | Cook's Illustrated

½–¾ teaspoon red pepper

flakes handled spatula in step 2. A splatter screen helps contain
the splattering.
1 cup tomato passata

1¾ teaspoons table salt

INSTRUCTIONS
12 ounces spaghetti 1  Whisk water, tomato paste, and sugar together in
medium saucepan. Bring to simmer over medium-high
heat, then reduce heat to low to keep tomato broth warm.

2  Heat ⅓ cup oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in 12-inch

nonstick skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring
frequently with long-handled rubber spatula, until garlic is
golden brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in passata and salt.
Cook, stirring frequently, until sauce thickens and oil
around edges of skillet begins to sizzle, about 4 minutes.

3 Add pasta in even layer and increase heat to medium-

high. Add 1 cup tomato broth and cook, pushing between
pasta strands frequently with edge of spatula to prevent
clumping, until broth has been mostly absorbed by pasta
and sauce around edges of skillet begins to sizzle, 4 to 5
minutes. Add 1 cup broth (B) and cook, shaking skillet
occasionally and continuing to prod pasta strands with
spatula, until broth has been mostly absorbed and sauce
begins to sizzle, 5 to 7 minutes.

4 Using 2 thin spatulas, gently flip half of pasta so

bottom is on top and spread into even layer. Repeat with
remaining half of pasta. Add 1 cup broth and cook,
continuing to shake skillet and prod pasta, until broth has
been mostly absorbed and sauce begins to sizzle, 5 to 7
minutes. Add 1 cup broth and repeat cooking until sauce
begins to sizzle, 5 to 7 minutes. Repeat dividing and
flipping pasta.

https://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/15027-spaghetti-all-assassina/print 2/3
9/29/22, 1:40 PM Spaghetti All'Assassina | Cook's Illustrated

5  Add 1 cup broth and repeat cooking until sauce

begins to sizzle, 5 to 7 minutes. Pasta should be firm but
cooked through. If not, add remaining 1 cup broth, ½ cup
at a time, and continue to cook, checking frequently, until
pasta is cooked through.

6 Increase heat to high and cook pasta, without moving

it, until underside is deeply browned and crisp and some
strands are beginning to char, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove
skillet from heat, drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons oil,
and serve immediately.

https://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/15027-spaghetti-all-assassina/print 3/3