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F525 mower (JD) only starts or runs

if seat switch depressed.
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C ChadDIY , 05-05-21 06:02 PM

  #11  

I bought an F525.i noticed the seat switch was

bypassed. I hooked it up and the machine would die is
you hit any bumps. I figured the switch was getting too
worn and sensitive so i ordered a new one. Same issue.
So i dug in a bit. The mower should start without the
switch depressed, if the parking brake is on and the pto
is disengaged. It won't start unless the seat switch is
depressed. Similarly, once running, you cannot
dismount without it dieing. Again, with brake on and pto
disengaged. All other safety functions seem to work
properly. I've read several forums that dealt with a
faulty neutral switch and would only run with brake
engaged. This isn't my problem. As a side note, i own 3
f525s (long story, but 2 will be for sale). I mention this as
i can verify proper functioning against these other 2.
Any thoughts?

B beelzebob , 05-06-21 03:20 AM

  #22  

You need a manual for the mower that has an electrical

diagram to determine how the safety interlocks need to
be wired. The safety interlock logic can be extracted
from the electrical diagram if not explained in the
manual. Some machines create a different safety
interlock logic with the ignition switch being in the start
or run positions.

PJmax , 05-06-21 10:12 AM   #33  

This is a highlighted ignition diagram.

C ChadDIY , 05-06-21 06:35 PM

  #44  

Thanks, Pjmax, for the elusive wiring schematic. Now if i

was only smart enough to interpret it. I can decipher
some of it. Since i have extra working machines i
swapped parts. Specifically, i swapped brake/neutral
switches. No change in behavior. Then i swapped the
entire console that includes key switch, pto switch, (and
odometer). No change. Finally, within the same mower, i
swapped relays. Each time, i must have the seat
depressed at all times to start and keep running. Does
this mean it's a bad wire somewhere? There's other
components, (starter, ignition module, coil, etc), but i
don't think anything else can be to blame. From afar, all
the wires look good and never tampered with. I don't
want to cut open the wiring harnesses to look closer.
One last thought, while disconnecting the keyswitch, i
had it on RUN and accidentally shorted across the
yellow/eed striped wire (assumed main power) and the
solid purple wire. This hot wired it to turn over. But
interesting enough, the seat switch wasn't depressed.
Does this help diagnose for someone who understands
the wiring better than me?

Thanks in advance for help. There's tons of great info

and people on here.

C ChadDIY , 05-06-21 06:38 PM

  #55  

Oh, and all fuses are good too.

cheese , 05-06-21 11:38 PM   #66  

Are there 2 wires or 4 going to the brake switch?

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C ChadDIY , 05-07-21 12:18 PM

  #77  

4 to brake switch. 2 purple, 2 blue

cheese , 05-07-21 06:40 PM   #88  

Try taking the connector off the brake switch and put a

jumper wire from the one purple wire to the other and
leave the other terminals open and give it a test.

B beelzebob , 05-08-21 04:16 AM

  #99  

If there are 4 wires on the break switch, there are some

wires missing on the above schematic. If the PUR and
PUR/BLK connection (at what looks like S1) shown at the
ignition switch was at the brake switch, there are only 3
wires at the break switch, not 4.

C ChadDIY , 05-08-21 08:42 AM

  #10
10  

Cheese, i jumped between the two purple wires in the

brake switch and i experience the same behavior. It
won't start without the operator on the seat, when the
brake it depressed.

C ChadDIY , 05-08-21 08:45 AM

  #11
11  

I was wrong. There are actually 5 wires. A set of 3 purple

in one connector and a set of 2 blue in the other
connector. The switch itself has 4 prongs, as 2 of the
purple wire are on 1 prong.

C ChadDIY , 05-10-21 07:37 AM

  #12
12  

Good morning. Anyone else have any ideas? I am

sharing a previous similar thread, John Deere F525 start
problem - DoItYourself.com Community Forums, in
hopes it helps get some juices flowing.

On a side note, I am new to this forum, but just figured

out how to change the email notification to instant, so i
don't have to keep checking every couple hours to see if
there is an update on this thread. :-)
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C ChadDIY , 05-20-21 08:47 AM

  #13
13  

Checking in, hoping others have more ideas. I may try

replacing the relays with one from a different mower.
I'm just throwing darts now.

F frank1046 , 05-20-21 09:27 AM

  #14
14  

did you try taking the switch off of one of the other

mowers you have that you know works and try it on this
one?

C ChadDIY , 05-20-21 10:09 AM

  #15
15  

yes. I swapped brake/neutral switches. No change in

behavior. Then i swapped the entire console that
includes key switch, pto switch, (and odometer). No
change. Finally, within the same mower, i swapped
relays. Each time, i must have the seat depressed at all
times to start and keep running.

A alan73 , 05-20-21 11:21 AM

  #16
16  

so your probably not getting power to the ignition relay

through the pto and brake switch would check for
voltage through those switches and then at the relay the
diagram shows a diode in that circuit if the diode was
bad it would only work on the seat switch.

C ChadDIY , 05-20-21 12:39 PM

  #17
17  

Thanks, Alan. So make sure I have 12v coming to each

sw (and exiting). I believe the switch always has 12v
coming through, but switches where when open or
closed. i do remember checking that it has continuity on
one side with the other open, but then swaps when
depressed.

Help me understand your last sentence. What behavior

would you expect to see or not see if the diode is bad?
Also, then please help me understand your rationale so
i can learn a bit more.

I am pretty sure my meter has a diode function on it.

Lastly, I am not sure we are certain this is the correct

diagram. See Beelzebob's note on 05-08-21, 11:16 AM
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A alan73 , 05-20-21 01:15 PM

  #18
18  

not sure if the diagram is correct or not either, but

assuming it is or atleast similar enough pin 86 of the
ignition relay witch is what would provide power to the
coil of the relay shows it can get power from 2 different
sources one is the seat switch and the other 2 is the
brake and pto switch the diagram shows a diode on that
wire, not sure where it would actually be, but if you was
not getting power from the brake and pto switch the
relay would only work when the seat switch was
powering the relay.
while you can check continuity of diodes with a meter
and should show continuity in one direction and swap
meter leads and not show continuity, would probably
just do voltage checks through the brake and pto
switches and at pin 86 first.
diodes only allow power to flow one way so if you do
find a bad diode and replace it. just make sure your
orient it so you have voltage at the relay if you install it
backwards it would block voltage to the relay pretty
simple to check with a test light or voltmeter.

A alan73 , 05-20-21 01:49 PM

  #19
19  

AM122590 that part seems to fit a lot of models you

may have something like that in the wiring harness may
want to google it for a picture.

C ChadDIY , 05-20-21 03:24 PM

  #20
20  

alan73 - Great information!!! i will check on this when i

get home and give an update. I greatly appreciate this.

C ChadDIY , 05-21-21 07:52 AM

  #21
21  

alan73 - you are the man!!! Thank you so much for this
info.

There's 4 diodes all about in the same place. It's hard to

see and access this area to determine which one was
part of which circuit. I just pulled all 4 and used my
diode tester. One way they showed and open loop and
the other it showed roughly .58 volts, except for one of
the diodes that didn't have an open loop one direction. I
grabbed a diode off a different mower and everything
works as it should. I would have never figured this out
without your help! Thanks again.

One more thought. Before I put my meter into diode

mode, i tried the continuity mode. None of the diodes
showed continuity in either direction, so without a diode
function on your meter, I don't think you can rely on
continuity testing.

I hope this thread is helpful to others in the future.

A alan73 , 05-21-21 10:16 AM

  #22
22  

probably depends on the meter but you should be able

to read ohms on a diode on the direction that allows
current through and may even have a reading the other
direction also but it will be a very high resistance most
auto ranging meters should give you a reading. where
manual ones you may have to know what range to
select to get a reading.

cheese , 05-21-21 07:17 PM   #23

23  

Nice work alan73!

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