Jean Campbell’s

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F loral Designs
 Bohème Ring
Work ladder stitch, fringe, and peyote stitch into a sparkling bauble for your hand.

Materials and Tools

• 3 g silver-lined crystal size 11° hex cylinder beads
• 15 Pacific opal 4mm crystal bicones
• 15 fuchsia AB 6mm crystal rounds
• 1 peridot 8mm crystal round
• Crystal 6-lb FireLine braided beading thread
• Scissors
• Size 12 sharp beading needle

1) Use 5' of thread to string on 2 size 11°,
leaving a 4" tail. Pass through both beads
again and manipulate them so they sit
side-by-side (Fig. 1).
3) Repeat to make a ladder-stitched strip
15 size 11°s long. Connect the ends of the
strip to make a base circle (Fig. 3). The tail
thread should exit from the bottom of
the base circle, the working thread from
the top. Pull the thread so it’s doubled.

Figure1 1
Figure Figure 2 Figure 3

2) String 1Figure 1 and passFigure

size 11° down 2 Figure 3Figure 3
through the bead you last exited and up
through the one just strung (Fig. 2).

4) String the 8mm crystal round. Lay

the bead in the center of the ring, pass
down through the cylinder bead on the
opposite side of the base ring, and up
Figure 2 through the next cylinder bead. Pass
Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3
back through the 8mm round and pass
down through the cylinder bead next to
the one first exited in this step.

Figure 6
Figure 5
Figure 4
Figure 6
Figure 5
Figure 4
 Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

5) String 5 cylinder beads; skip 2 beads 7) String 1 size 11°, 1 bicone crystal, and
on the base ring and pass up through the 1 size 11°. Skipping the last size 11°, pass
following bead, then pass back through back through
Figure 1the biconeFigure
crystal,
2 the first Figure 3
the last bead added. *String 4 cylinder size 11°, and the base circle bead you last
beads; skip 2 beads on the base ring and exited. Pass up through the next bead on
pass up through theFigure
following
1 bead,Figure
then 2 the base circle (Fig. 6).3Repeat around to
Figure
pass back through the last bead added. make 15 bicone fringe legs in all.
Repeat from * twice (Fig. 4). String
3 cylinder beads; pass down through the
first bead added in this step and down
through the nearest bead of the base
ring. Weave through beads to exit from
the fourth bead added in this step.

Figure 6
Figure 6

Figure 5
Figure 4
8) Start a new doubled thread that ex-
its down through the base ring. String
3 size 11°s, one 6mm crystal, and 1 size
11°. Skipping the last size 11°, pass back Figure 5
Figure 4 the 6mm crystal and the first
through
3 size 11°s. Loop under the thread that Figure 6
connects the next 2 beads of the base cir-
Figure 4 Figure 5
Figure 4 cle (Fig. 7). Repeat around to make fifteen
1 Figure 2 Figure 3 6mm crystal fringe legs in all. Secure the
6) String 1 cylinder bead; pass through thread and trim.
the center 3 beads of the next loop added
in the previous step. Repeat four times to
tighten the beads around the 8mm crys-
tal (Fig. 5). Weave through beads to exit
up through the base ring.

Figure 8

Figure 7

Figure 7 Figure 8

Figure 6
9) Anchor a new doubled thread Figure 7
that
Figure 55
Figure
exits from a size 11° at the end of a
bicone fringe leg. String 3 size 11°s and
pass
Figure 7 through the end size 11° on the
next bicone fringe leg. Repeat around to
connect all the bicone fringe legs.
 10) Weave through the beads to exit from
a size 11° at the end of a 6mm crystal
fringe leg. String 4– 6 size 11°s and pass
through the end size 11° on the next
crystal fringe leg. Repeat around to con-
nect all the 6mm crystal fringe legs. Pass
through all the beads again to reinforce.
Secure the thread and trim. Set the ring
top aside.
Figure 6
Figure 511) Form the ring band:
Rows 1 – 14: Using 5’ of thread and leav-
ing a 4" tail, peyote-stitch a band 12 size
11°s wide and 14 rows long.
Rows 15 & 16: Make a beginning-of-the-
row decrease (Fig. 8) on each of the next
2 rows of the band so it becomes 8 beads
wide, creating a ring top base.
12) Anchor a new thread so it exits
from the center of the ring band. Pass
up through the flower and back down,
catching a thread between beads, and
back into the ring band, again catch-
ing a thread between beads. Continue
stitching in this fashion, securing the
entire flower to the ring band. Secure the
thread and trim.
13) Check the ring band for fit, adding or
subtracting rows as necessary. Use the
working thread to weave the beads at
the ring band’s ends together to form a
seamless join.

Figure 8

Figure 8
Rows 17 & on: Continue working peyote
stitch until the end of the band is long
enough to reach the back of your finger.
Secure the thread and trim.
7
Other side: Start a new 2' thread that
exits at the same point as the tail in Row 1.
Repeat Rows 3 and on until the strap on
both sides fits around the finger. End so
the beads at the end of this strap interlock
with the beads of the first strap. Don’t
trim the thread.
 Lilium

Who needs a prom date when you can wear this intriguing and shapely wrist corsage,
making you feel like the belle of the ball? Stitch this beauty with seed beads and a
variety of crystals using sculptural peyote stitch, netting, and ladder stitch techniques.
It’s a versatile design that can easily be modified to make a necklace or brooch.

materials and tools

• 1 g size 15° seed beads for flower center (A)
• 2 g size 11° seed beads for leaf edge (B)
• 3 g size 11° seed beads for petal edge (C)
• 2 g size 11° seed beads for inner petal (D)
• 2 g size 11° seed beads for center of petal (E)
• 3 g of 1.5mm cube beads for leaf center (F)
• 3 g size 8° seed beads for leaf stem (G)
• 2 g of size 8° seed beads for petal base (H)
• 1 round 12mm crystal rivoli (#1122)
• 12 round 6mm crystals or crystal pearls (#5000 or #5810)
• 2 silver or gold 5mm jump rings
• 1 silver or gold 6mm strong magnetic button clasp
• Smoke FireLine 6 lb braided beading thread
• Size 12 beading needle
• Scissors
1) Leaf. Work a peyote-stitched leaf:
Rounds 1& 2: Use 2' of thread to string
2G, 8B, 1G, 1B, 1G, and 1B, leaving a 2" tail;
pass back through the second-to-last G
just added. String 8B; pass through the
first 2G added in this round (Photo 1).
Round 3: String 1F, skip 1B, and pass
through the next B; repeat 3 times. String
1F, skip the nearest G, and pass through
the next B. String 1B; pass through the
nearest G. String 1B; pass through the
next B. String 1F, skip the nearest G, and
pass through the next B. String 1F, skip
1B, and pass through the next B; repeat
twice. String 1F, skip 1B, and pass through
the nearest 2G and step up through the
first F from this round (Photo 2).
Round 4: Work 5 peyote stitches with 1F
in each stitch. String 1B, 1G, and 1B; pass
down through the second B added in the
previous round. Work 5 peyote stitches
with 1F in each stitch. Step up through
the nearest 2G (Photo 3).
1 2
4 5
Round 5: Work 6 peyote stitches with 1F
in each stitch. String 1B; pass through
the nearest G. String 1B; pass down
through the second B from the previous
round. Work 6 peyote stitches with 1F in
each stitch. Step up through the first F
added in this round (Photo 4).
Round 6: Work 6 peyote stitches with 1F
in each stitch. String 1B, 1G, and 1B; pass
down through the second B added in the
previous round. Work 6 peyote stitches
with 1F in each stitch. String 2F; pass
through the first (nearest) F from
Round 4 (Photo 5).
Round 7: Work 6 peyote stitches with 1F
in each stitch. String 1B; pass through
the nearest G. String 1B; pass down
through the second B added in the pre-
vious round. Work 6 peyote stitches with
1F in each stitch. String 1F; pass through
the 2F from Round 6. String 1F; pass
through the first F from Round 6. Step up
through the first F added in this round
(Photo 6).
3
6
Round 8: Work 6 peyote stitches with 1B
in each stitch. String 1B, 1G, and 1B; pass
down through the second B added in the
previous round. Work 7 peyote stitches
with 1B in each stitch. Work 1 peyote
stitch with 2B. Work 1 peyote stitch with
1B (Photo 7). Step up.
Round 9: Work 6 peyote stitches with 2B
in each stitch. String 1B; pass through
the nearest G. String 1B; pass down
through the second B added in the
previous round. Work 10 peyote stitches
with 2B in each stitch (Photo 8). Weave
through the edge beads to exit from the
first B added in this round that sits next
to the G (see red arrow in Photo 8).
Note: Take care to avoid snagging the
lower size 8° of the stem.
7 8
10 11
Point: String 1B, 1G, and 1B; pass down
through the second B added in the pre-
vious round. Form a hidden turnaround
and pass up through the second B just
added (Photo 9).
Strap: String 1B; pass through the near-
est 1G. String 1B; pass down through the
nearest B and form a hidden turnaround
to exit up through the second B just
added (Photo 10). String 1B, 1G, and 1B;
pass down through the next B and form
a hidden turnaround to exit up through
the second B just added (Photo 11).
Repeat this section 8 times (the final
stitch should look like Photo 12). Don’t
cut the thread; set the leaf aside.
Repeat this entire step to form a second leaf.
9
12
2) Petal. Work peyote stitch around a
6mm round:
Round 1: Use 1 ½' of thread to string 2H,
leaving a short tail. Tie a strong square
knot so the beads sit side-by-side; pass
through 1H to clear the knot. String
1 round 6mm, 1C, 1H, and 1C; pass back
through the 6mm and through the
nearest H to center the pearl over the 2H
(Photo 13).
Round 2: String 1H and 4C; pass up
through the nearest C at the top of the
pearl. String 1D; pass through the near-
est H. String 1D; pass down through the
next C. String 4C and 1H; pass through
the H at the bottom of the pearl. Step up
through the first H added in this round
(Photo 14).
Round 3: String 2D, skip 1C, and pass
through the next C; repeat once. String
1D, pass through the next D. String 1D,
1H, and 1D; pass down through the
nearest D. String 1D, skip 1C, and pass
through the next C. String 2D; skip 1C,
13 14
16
and pass through the next C. String 2D,
skip 1C, and pass through the nearest
3H. Step up through the first 2D added in
this round (Photo 15).
Round 4: Work 3 peyote stitches with 1D
in each stitch, treating the 2D additions
from the previous round as 1 bead. String
1D; pass through the nearest H. String
1D; pass down through the next D from
the previous round. Work 3 peyote stitches
with 1D in each stitch, treating the 2D
additions from the previous round as
1 bead. Step up through the 3H at the
bottom of the pearl (Photo 16).
Round 5: Work 2 peyote stitches with
2E in each stitch. Work 2 peyote stitches
with 1E in each stitch. String 1E, 1H,
and 1E; pass down through the next D
from the previous round. Work 2 peyote
stitches with 1E in each stitch. Work
2 peyote stitches with 2E in each stitch.
Pass through the bottom 3H and step up
through the first 2E added in this round
(Photo 17).
15
17
Round 6: Work 4 peyote stitches with 1E
in each stitch, treating the 2E additions
from the previous round as 1 bead. String
1E; pass through the nearest H. String 1E;
pass down through the next E from the
previous round. Work 4 peyote stitches
with 1E in each stitch, treating the 2E
additions from the previous round as
1 bead. String 1E; pass through the center
H at the bottom of the pearl (not the
stem H). String 1E; pass through the first
2E from Round 5. Step up through the
first E added in this round (Photo 18).
Round 7: Work 1 peyote stitch with 2C.
Work 3 peyote stitches with 1C in each
stitch. String 1C, 1H, and 1C; pass down
through the next E from the previous
round. Work 3 peyote stitches with 1C in
each stitch. Work 2 peyote stitches with
2C in each stitch. Work 1 peyote stitch
with 1C. Work 1 peyote stitch with 2C.
Step up through the first 2C added in this
round (Photo 19). Step up.
18 19
Round 8: Work 4 peyote stitches with 1C
in each stitch, treating the 2C from the
previous round as 1 bead. String 1C
and pass through the nearest H. String
1C and pass through the H again to
square-stitch the C to the point. String
1C; pass down through the next C from
the previous round. Work 8 peyote stitches
with 1C in each stitch, treating the 2C
additions from the previous round as
1 bead (Photo 20). Either secure the thread
and trim, or, if you have plenty of thread
left, weave through the beads to exit the
bottom H below the pearl. Set the petal
aside.
Repeat this entire step 5 more times to
form a total of 6 petals.
20
 3) Center. Stitch the petals together, Round 2: String 1A, pass through the
form nets, and add a rivoli to form the closest C (see arrow in Photo 24) of
flower center: the nearest petal, then string 1A and
pass through the next pearl. Exit down
Ring: Use the working thread from one through a top B added in Round 1 (Figure 2).
of the petals to string {2B and the bottom
H of another petal} five times. String 2B Round 3: String 3A, pass up through the
and pass through the last H exited on the nearest top B added in Round 1, through
first petal and pull tight to form a ring the nearest pearl, and down through the
(Photo 21; Figure 1, blue thread path). next top B; repeat around the circle. Exit
from the second A added in this round
Round 1: String 2B, 1A, 1 pearl, 1A, and (Figure 3, blue thread).
2B; pass through the bottom H of the
next petal. Repeat around to add a total
of 6 nets (Photo 22). Exit up through the
first 2B. Square stitch together the adjacent
4B just added between each pearl
(Photo 23; Figure 1, red thread).
Exit from a pearl.

Figure 1 Figure 2

21 22 23
Round 4: Slide the rivoli into the center.
String 4A and pass through the center A
of the next net added in Round 3; repeat
to connect all the Round 3 nets, bezeling
the rivoli at the same time (Photo 24; Fig-
ure 3, red thread path). Repeat the thread
path several times to reinforce. Secure all
the threads and trim.
4) Assembly. Connect the leaves to the
flower:
Leaf extension: Start a new 1' thread
that exits from the bottom 2G. Work 5
ladder stitches with 2G in each stitch.
Figure 3
24
Connect: Pass through 2B on ring at the
underside of the flower, making sure
the leaf is cupped upright, like the pet-
als, then pass through the final 2G on
the leaf; repeat the thread path twice to
reinforce. Secure this thread and trim.
Repeat this step to add a leaf to the other
side of the flower (Photo 25).
5) Clasp. Test the bracelet for size. Use
the working thread on the bands to add
or remove beads for fit, allowing enough
space for the jump rings and clasp (about
¾"). Secure this thread and trim. Use
jump rings to connect one half of the
clasp to the G at the end of each band.
25
 Sakura
Right-angle weave, herringbone stitch, and peyote stitch are all called upon to
form this wildly textured bracelet that features a large sparkling crystal stone.
The braid-like band is done with a very stealthy process, and the leaves add whimsy
and color, all culminating in a stunning piece that’s a sure conversation-starter.

materials and tools

• 1 g size 15° seed beads (A)
• 5 g each size 11° seed beads in 3 different colors for
the spines: edge (B), middle (C), center (D)
• 1 g each size 11° seed beads in 2 different colors for
the leaf: center (E), edge (F)
• 20 g size 8° seed beads (G)
• 38 crystal 3mm bicones
• 1 crystal 22x30mm fancy stone
• 1 dress clasp
• Beading thread
• Size 11 beading needle
• Scissors

Finished size: 6 ¾"

1) Band. Use doubled thread to right-
angle-weave the bracelet band:
Row 1: String 4G and tie a knot to form a
circle, leaving a short tail. Pass through
2G to clear the knot. String 3G, pass
through the last G exited, and the first 2G
just added; repeat four times and weave
through beads to exit the top G of the
final unit (Fig. 1).
Figure 1
Figure 1
Continue working right-angle weave to
form a strip 42 rows long or to size plus
the width of the dress clasp. Secure the
thread and trim.
2) Spines. Use very tight tension to
herringbone-stitch pointed and curved
spines along the edge of the band:
Figure 2
Row 1: Start a new single thread that ex-
its from the sixth side bead of the band,
toward the long part of the beadwork.
String 1B and 1C and pass through the
next G. String 1C and 1B, pass through
the next G, and turnaround to exit up
through the last B added (Fig. 2).
Figure 1
Figure 3
Figure 2
Figure 1
Row 2: String
Figure 2 1B and 1C; pass down
through the next C. String 1D; pass up
through the following C. String 1C and
1B; pass down through the nearest B and
turnaround to exit up through the last B
added (Fig. 3).
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 3
Figure 3
Rows 3 and 4: Repeat Row 2.
Rows 5–7: Repeat Row 2, but add 2D in-
stead of 1D.
Rows 8–10: Repeat Row 2, but add 3D
instead of 1D. Pull tight.
Rows 11–13: Repeat Row 2, but add 2D
instead of 1D. Note: These center in-
crease beads are meant to be jumbly, not
smooth.
Rows 14–16: Repeat Row 2.
Rows 17 and 18: String 1B and 1C; pass
down through the next C and up through
the following
Figure 1 C. String
Figue1C
5 and 1B, pass
down through the nearest B, and turn-
around to exit up through the last B added.
Row 19: String 1B; pass down through
the next C and up through the follow-
ing C. String 1B, pass down through the
nearest Figure
B, and
2 turnaround to exit up Figure 6
through
Figure 6 the last B added. Figure 7
Picot: String 1G and pass through the
first B added in Row 19 (Fig. 4). Turn-
around and repeat the thread path to
reinforce. If the thread is short, secure
and trim. Or, if the thread is over 6",
exit from the G just added.
Figure 3
Figue 5
Figure 4
Figue 5
Figure 6 Figure 7
Figure 6 Figure 7
Figure 4
 Bend the spine so it touches the inside
G of the sixth unit in Row 9 and square
stitch the 2G together (see Figure 5 for
placement—the 3 red beads on the left
indicate the point where the spine was
stitched; the single red bead on the right
indicates where to stitch the point G down).
1 1
2 2
3 3
Figure 1
4 4
5 5
6 6
7 7
Figure 2 8 Figure 68
9 9
10 10
11 11
12 12
Figure 3 13 13
14 14
Figure 1
15 15
Figure 5
Continue stitching spines down the
bracelet as shown in Figure 5, leaving
2 empty spots along the edge between
each spine (to add bicones later), until
Figure 2
you reach 1 ½" from the end, where you’ll
add the clasp. Ensure that all the spines
are curving the same way! Set the band
aside.
3) Bezel. Use 3' of thread to right-angle-
weave and peyote-stitch a bezel for the
fancy stone:
Figure 3
Round 1: Use D to form a strip of
right-angle weave 26 units long (or long
enough to almost fit around the crystal
stone). Fold the strip in half so the first
and final units touch. String 1D, pass
down through the end bead of the first
unit. String 1D and pass up through the
end bead of the final unit. Exit from a
bottom D (Fig. 6).
Figure 65
Figue
Round 2: String 1D and pass through
the next bottom D from Round 1; repeat
to add a total of 28D. Step up for the
next and subsequent rounds by passing
through the first bead added in the cur-
rent round.
Figure 7
Rounds 3 and 4: Peyote-stitch 1A between
each D from the previous round for a
total of 28A in each of two rounds. Weave
through beads to exit from a D on the
opposite side of Round 1.
Round 5: Place the rivoli in the beadwork
face up. Peyote-stitch 1D between each
top D from Round 1 for a total of 28D.
Round 6: Peyote-stitch 1A between each
D for a total of 28A. Repeat the thread
path to reinforce, securing the stone.
Weave through beads to exit from a bot-
tom D in Round 1 (Fig. 7). Figue 5
Figure 7
Figure 6 Figure 7
Round 7 (embellishment): String 1G and
pass through the next bottom D of
Round 1; repeat to add a total of 28G to
the surface of the bezel. Step up through
the first G added in this round.
 Round 8 (embellishment): Peyote-stitch 1B
between each G of the previous round for
a total of 28B (Fig. 8). Secure the thread
Figure 1 Figue 5 and trim. Set the bezel aside.
Figue 5
Figure 8 Figue
Figure 6 5
Figure 2 Figure 7
4) Leaves. Use 2' of thread and tight
tension to peyote-stitch embellishment
leaves for the bezel:
Rounds 1 and 2: String 13C; pass back
through the tenth bead strung to form
a picot. String 7C and pass through the
Figure 6in this round (Fig. 9, blue Figure 7
first 3C added
Figure 3 thread).
Figure 9
Round 3: String 2C, skip 1C from the pre-
vious round and pass through the next
C; repeat once. String 1C, skip 1C from
the previous round and pass through
the next C; repeat once. String 1E, pass
through the top picot C from the previ-
ous round. String 1E, pass through the
next C from the previous round. String
X the previous round and
1C, skip 1C from
pass through the next C; repeat once.
String 2C, skip 1C from the previous
round and pass through the following C;
repeat once. String 2C, skip 2C from the
gure 4
previous round, and pass through the
next C. Step up through the first 2C add-
ed in this round (Fig. 9, red thread).
Round 4: String 2E and pass through the
next 2C from the previous round. String
X
1E and pass through the next 1C of the
previous round; repeat once. String 1E
and pass through the next 1E of the pre-
vious round. String 3E and pass through
the next 1E of the previous round. String
1E and pass through the next 1C of the
previous round; repeat once. String 1E
and pass through the next 2C. String 2E
and pass through the next 2C. String 1E
and pass through the next 2C; repeat
once. Step up through the first 2E added
in this round (Fig.
Figure 7 10, blue thread).
Figure 10
Round 5: String 2E and pass through the
next 1E from the previous round. String
1E and pass through the next 1E from the
previous round; repeat twice. String 1F
and pass through the top picot 1E from
the previous round. String 1F and pass
through the next 1E from the previous
round. String 1E and pass through the
next 1E from the previous round; repeat
twice. String 2E and pass through
2E from the previous round. String 2E
and pass through the next 1E from the
previous round; repeat once. String 2E
and pass through the next 2E from the
previous round. Step up through the
first 2E added in this round (Fig. 10, red
thread).
Round 6: String 1F and pass through the
next 1E from the previous round; repeat
twice. String 1F and pass through the
next 1F from the previous round. String
3F and pass through the next 1F from
the previous round. String 1F and pass
through the next 1E from the previous
round; repeat twice. String 1F and pass
through the next 2E from the previous
round. String 2F and pass through the
next 2E from the previous round. String
1F and pass through the next 2E from
the previous round; repeat once. String
2F and pass through the next 2E from
the previous round. Step up through the
first F added in this round (Fig. 11, blue
thread).
Repeat this step twice to form 3 or more
leaves. If desired, form additional leaves
so they are slightly smaller. Do so by
stringing 11C and passing back through
the eighth bead strung to form a picot.
String 5C and pass through the first 3C
added in the round. Work the same gen-
eral pattern, but adjust the number of
beads in each round to accommodate the
smaller initial bead count.

5) Assembly. Sew the components

together:

Bezel: Lay the bezel on the open end at

the first part of the band so the spines
and the face of the stone point up. Care-
fully stitch the bezel to the band, using
G to fill in as necessary to make a neat
connection.

Leaves: Stitch the leaves to Rounds 7 and

8 of the bezel as desired.

Edges: Stitch 1 bicone between each

open G along the band edge.

Clasp: Sew the hook side of the clasp

to the back of the band underneath the
Figure 11
bezel. Sew the bar side to the other end
of the band.

Round 7: String 1F and pass through the

next 1F from the previous round; repeat
three times. String 3F and pass through
the third picot F from the previous
round. String 1F and pass through the
next 1F from the previous round; repeat
three times. String 2F and pass through
the next 2F from the previous round.
String 2F and pass through the next 1F
from the previous round; repeat once.
String 2F and pass through the next 2F
from the previous round. String 2F and
pass through the next 1F from the pre-
vious round. Step up through the first F
added in this round (Fig. 11, red thread).
Weave through beads to exit from the
2E at the bottom of the leaf in Round 3.
Don’t trim the thread; set the leaf aside.
 Star of India

Use sculptural peyote stitch to form the beautiful focal flower of this
necklace design that was inspired by Indian wedding jewelry.

Materials and tools

• 8 g of size 11° faceted or regular seed beads
• 130 bicone 4mm crystals
• 7 round 6mm crystals
• 165 faceted rondelle 2.5 x 4mm Czech pressed-glass beads
• 4 crimp tubes
• S-clasp
• Beading thread
• Beading wire
• Size 12 beading or sharp needles
• Scissors
• Chain-nose pliers
• T-pin or large needle
• Beading mat
• Wire cutters
• Crimping pliers

Small Flowers (make 10) Round 2: String 1 bicone and 7 seed

Round 1: String 5 rondelles, pass through
all of them two more times, and tie a
knot. Pass through the next rondelle to
hide the knot.
Round 2: String 1 bicone and 1 seed
bead. Pass back through the bicone and
into the next rondelle. Continue around
until you have a crystal fringe between
each rondelle. The fringe will be sort
of floppy, but that’s okay for now. Leave
enough of a tail to weave in later. Set aside.
beads. Pass back through the bicone
to make a loop. Pass through the next
rondelle. String 1 bicone and 1 seed bead.
Pass back through the bicone and into
the next rondelle. Continue around until
you have short crystal fringe between
each rondelle and 1 fringe with a loop.
The loop will be used to attach your neck
strap to the clasp assembly.

Small Flowers with Loops (make 2)

Round 1: Make a rondelle base as in the

instructions above.
Small Flower
Medium Flowers (make 7)
You’ll make these flowers in the same
fashion as the small ones, but with a
10-rondelle center instead.
Round 1: String 10 rondelles, pass
through all of them two more times, and
tie a knot. Pass through the next rondelle
to hide the knot.
Center: String 1 round crystal and pass
through the rondelle opposite the one
you’re exiting from (like when you add
the center bead in a daisy chain loop).
Pass through the rondelles to reach to
the first side of the crystal just strung.
Pass through the crystal again to secure
and exit from the closest rondelle.
Round 2: String 1 bicone and 1 seed bead.
Pass back through the bicone and into
the next rondelle. Continue around until
you have a crystal fringe between each
rondelle. Leave enough of a tail to weave
in later. Set aside.
Focal Flower Petals (make 5)
Okay, so those little flowers were fun to
make. But now you need to pay atten-
tion! The big flower is worked in sculp-
tural peyote stitch, one petal at a time. To
make the subtle curves in the petals you
need to keep your stitch tension really
tight.
It’s very important to keep your row
counts straight, or you’re going to get
really frustrated. A few tips:
•I keep my rows straight by mentally
repeating the row number every time I
take a stitch (“Four, four, four; five, five,
five” etc.).
•It’s helpful to check off each row as you
complete it (that’s what those boxes in
the margins are for).
•You can tell if you’re on an even row if
the row starts on the same side the tail is
exiting from; an odd row starts opposite
the tail.
•Set out the number of beads for upcom-
ing row so you’ll know if you stitched the
right amount.
•Each row in the instructions ends with
the total number of beads added in that
row, so it should help to check your bead
counts every row, or every few rows to
make sure you’re on track.
Petal #:
1 2 3 4 5
mmmmm Rows 1 and 2: String 6 beads.
(6 seeds)
mmmmm Rows 3 and 4: Work in one-
drop flat peyote stitch for
2 rows. (3 seeds in each row)
mmmmm Row 5: String 2 beads to make
a 2-bead increase at the be-
ginning of the row and work
across in one-drop. (4 seeds)
mmmmm Row 6: Make a 2-bead increase
at the beginning of the row.
Work across in one-drop
making sure to add a bead
between the 2 beads of the
increase added in the previous
row. (5 seeds)
mmmmm Row 7: Work in one-drop,
making sure to add a bead
between the 2 beads of the
increase added in the previous
row. (5 seeds)
Row 7
mmmmm Row 8: Work in one-drop.
(5 seeds)
mmmmm Row 9: Make a 2-bead increase
at the beginning of the row
and work across in one-drop.
(6 seeds)
mmmmm Row 10: Make a 2-bead in-
crease at the beginning of the
row. Work across in one-drop,
making sure to add a bead
between the 2 beads of the
increase added in the previous
row. (7 seeds)
mmmmm Row 11: Work in one-drop,
making sure to add a bead
between the 2 beads of the mmmmm Row 17: Make a 2-bead in-
increase added in the previous
row. (7 seeds)
mmmmm Row 12: Work in one-drop.
(7 seeds)
mmmmm Row 13: Make a 2-bead
increase at the beginning of
the row and work across in
one-drop. (8 seeds)
mmmmm Row 14: Make a 2-bead in-
crease at the beginning of
the row. Work the across in
one-drop, making sure to add
a bead between the 2 beads
of the increase added in the
previous row. (9 seeds)
mmmmm Row 15: Work in one-drop,
making sure to add a bead
between the 2 beads of the really need to dig down into
increase added in the previous
row. (9 seeds)
Row 15
mmmmm Row 16: Work in one-drop,
but this time add a rondelle
in the fifth stitch (it’s just off
center because we’re working
in even-count peyote stitch).
This larger bead will make a
slight increase. (4 seeds,
1 rondelle, 4 seeds)
Row 16
crease at the beginning of the
row. When you come to the
rondelle, work it as you would
an “up” bead from the previous
row. (10 seeds)
mmmmm Row 18: Make a 2-bead in-
crease at the beginning of
the row and work across in
one-drop. When you come
to the rondelle, pass through
it, treating it as if you were
adding it. Make sure to add
a bead between the 2 beads
of the increase added in the
previous row. (10 seeds)
mmmmm Row 19: Work in one-drop.
When you come to the ron-
delle, treat it as an “up” bead
from the previous row. You’ll
the rondelle, but it’s possi-
ble! Make sure to add a bead
between the 2 beads of the
increase added in the previ-
ous row. (11 seeds)
mmmmm Row 20: Work in one-drop un-
til you come to the spot over
the rondelle. Work 2 beads in
one stitch (two-drop peyote
stitch) and continue across in
one-drop. (12 seeds)
Row 20
mmmmm Row 21: Work in one-drop,
counting the two-bead stitch
from the previous row as
one stitch (don’t work a bead
between those beads to make
an increase). The petal should
have a gentle curve forming
now. (11 seeds)
mmmmm Row 22: Work in one-drop,
adding a rondelle in the sixth
stitch (it will sit over the
two-drop stitch in Row 20).
(5 seeds, 1 rondelle, 5 seeds)
mmmmm Row 23: Work in one-drop,
treating the rondelle as you
did in Row 17. (11 seeds)
mmmmm Row 24: Work in one-drop,
treating the rondelle as you
did in Row 18. (10 seeds)
mmmmm Row 25: Make a decrease at
the beginning of the row. (It
looks best if you work a hid-
den decrease so the thread
doesn’t show). Work across
in one-drop, treating the
rondelle as you did in Row 19.
(10 seeds)
mmmmm Row 26: Make a decrease at
the beginning of the row.
Work in one-drop until you
come to the spot over the
rondelle. Work 2 beads in
one stitch (two-drop peyote
stitch) and continue across in
one-drop as you did in Row 20.
(10 seeds)
Row 26
mmmmm Row 27: Make a decrease at
the beginning of the row.
Work across in one-drop,
counting the two-bead stitch
from the previous row as
one stitch (don’t work a bead
between those beads) as you
did in Step 21. (8 seeds)
mmmmm Row 28: Make a decrease at
the beginning of the row. Add
a rondelle as you did in
Rows 16 and 22 (this time it
will be in the fourth stitch).
(3 seeds, 1 rondelle, 3 seeds)
mmmmm Row 29: Make a decrease at
the beginning of the row,
working around the rondelle
as before. (6 seeds)
mmmmm Row 30: Make a decrease at
the beginning of the row,
working around the rondelle
as before. (4 seeds)
mmmmm Row 31: Make a decrease at
the beginning of the row,
working around the rondelle
as before. (4 seeds)
mmmmm Row 32: Make a decrease at
the beginning of the row.
Work 1 one-drop, 1 two-drop
over the rondelle, and 1 one-
drop. (4 seeds)
mmmmm Row 33: Make a decrease
at the beginning of the
row. Work 1 one-drop. Pass
through the two-drop from
the previous row. Work 1 one-
drop. (2 seeds)
mmmmm Row 34: Finish the petal with
1 rondelle. Weave through
the petal ends to strengthen,
secure the thread, and trim.
 are 5-sided—it should help to follow
the photo on the cover of this packet to
Completed Petal
determine placement.

Match two legs of a medium flower

Finishing the Focal Flower
Connect and fill: Use one of the pet-
al’s tail threads to stitch the first rows
of all the petals together into a circle.
The rows should make an even-count
peyote-stitch circle. Work rounds of flat
circular peyote stitch, making five even-
ly spaced decreases in each round until
you end up with a circle of five beads.
Secure the thread and trim.
Center: Stitch a medium flower to the
center of the focal flower. Use the seed
beads on every other fringe leg to con-
nect the two adjacent petals together.
Set the set the flower aside.
Necklace Assembly
to two legs of the last small flower. As
before, connect the flowers and rein-
force the fringe legs. Repeat until you’ve
added three medium flowers in all. End
the chain by stitching it to extreme
right edge beads on the upper left petal.
You’ve now completed one side of the
necklace.
Repeat Steps 1–3 to make the second
side of the necklace. You’ll stitch this
chain to the extreme left edge beads on
upper right petal.
Crimp onto the loop at the end of the
chain. String 5 rondelles (or as many as
you’d like to create the proper fit) and
crimp to one side of the clasp. Repeat for
the other side of the necklace/the other
side of the clasp.

Use the tail thread of 1 small flower with

a loop to pass through a fringe leg on
a regular small flower. Pass through an
adjoining rondelle, and up through the
next fringe leg, exiting from the seed
bead at the end. Touch the first and
second small flower legs together and
pass up into the first flower’s fringe leg.
Repeat the thread path to reinforce the
connection. Pass down into the second
small flower and through all its fringe
legs to reinforce.

Always using the tail thread of the flow-

er you’re connecting, continue weaving
the small flowers together until you
have a chain of 6. It’s a bit tricky to stitch
them together uniformly because they