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How to build a dollhouse

Les Kenny 
May 25, 2021  3

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 Contents
Preface

How it started

“Granddad, could you please make me a dollhouse for my birthday?”

That’s where it all started.

I had made dollhouses before for my kids, but that was some thirty years ago.

I recalled the pleasure that my daughters got out of their dollhouses, and
remembered some of the key construction points that made their dollhouses so
special.

I would implement those same measures into my grandkids doll’s house as I did into
my kids’ dollhouses way back when.

Doll's house
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My dollhouses of yesteryear had easy access, and the minimum number of rooms for
a liveable house.

Fewer rooms meant that less furniture had to be made to furnish the house, which
meant the kids were less likely to lose interest before completely furnishing the
dollhouse.
I also remember the enjoyment the kids got out of making their own furniture from
cardboard, blocks of wood, or anything else they could get their hands on.

Possibly a larger house with numerous rooms could have curbed that enthusiasm.

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So, I would make a house with four rooms and a hall. That would allow for the basics: 
a bedroom, kitchen/dining, bathroom/toilet, living room, and a hall with a spiral
staircase.

I would make the house narrow, with full opening front doors and a lift-off roof,
making it easy to furnish and play with.
Introduction

Making a doll's house

Description

This dollhouse has five rooms including the hall. It has a spiral staircase running from
the lounge room into the hall on the top floor.

The unit is wide and narrow and is covered with a 45° hip roof that can be removed.
The roof has a dormer in front, also with a 45° pitch.

Two opening doors span the front of the building. The full-size doors and the lift-off
roof make the dollhouse easy to access and use.

Part identification

[1a]  Back roof

[1b]  Front roof

[2]  Side roof

[3]  Dormer roof

[3b]  Dormer front wall

[4]  Back wall

[5]  Side wall
[6]  Bottom floor

[7]  Top floor

[8]  Lower internal wall [9]  Upper internal wall

[10]  Door (front wall)

[11]  Eave soffit

[12]  Frieze board

[13]  Front wall beam


[14]  Side vertical strip

[15]  Hinge
16]  Staircase pole

[17]  Step
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The wood and the size of the dolls house

The wood

Ft and inch version:

The dollhouse is constructed from 1/2″ MDF board, with the exception of the eave
and frieze boards, which are made from 3/4″ thick wood. There is also a 3/4″ x 3/4″
strip of wood that runs up the front of each side wall to give support to the door
hinges.


Metric version:

The dollhouse is constructed from 12mm MDF board, with the exception of the eave
and frieze boards, which are made from 18mm thick wood. There is also a 18mm x
18mm strip of wood that runs up the front of each side wall to give support to the
door hinges.

The size of the dollhouse

Ft and inch version:

This dollhouse stands 28″ high. It is 29″ wide x 14¼” deep at the roof. The actual body
depth including the doors is 10¼”.

Metric version:

This dollhouse stands 700mm high. It is 725mm wide x 355mm deep at the roof. The
actual body depth including the doors is 255mm.

Materials you will need

Ft and inch version:

MDF board 1/2″ thick:

I piece @ 4ft x 4ft.

I piece @ 4ft x 2ft.
All the required MDF pieces can be cut from the sheets mentioned above, as shown
in the ‘cutting the pieces from standard sheets’ picture.

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¾” x 2 ½” wood:

8ft for the eave soffit (piece [11]).

 ¾” x ¾” wood:

10ft for the frieze board and the side strips (pieces [12] and [14]).
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¾” x 1 ¾” wood:

30″ for the steps (piece [17]).

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¾” x 1″ wood:

25″ for the front wall beam (piece [13]).

Note: If you cannot source the exact wood sizes (widths and thicknesses)
mentioned above, near enough is good enough.

Metric version:


MDF board 12mm thick:

I piece @ 1200mm x 1200mm.

I piece @ 1200mm x 600mm.
 All the required MDF pieces can be cut from the sheets mentioned above, as shown
in the ‘cutting the pieces from standard sheets’ picture.

70mm x 18mm wood:

2400mm for the eave soffit (piece [11]).

18mm x 18mm wood:

3000mm for the frieze board and the side strips (pieces [12]and [14]).

43mm x 18mm wood:

750mm for the steps (piece [17]).

25mm x 18mm wood:

624mm for the front wall beam (piece [13]).

Note: If you cannot source the exact wood sizes (widths and thicknesses)
mentioned above, near enough is good enough.


You will also need…

Ft and inch version:

20″ of 1/4″ rod for the staircase pole. It can be steel, aluminum, wire, wood, or just
about anything.
And you’ll need some good wood glue and a few small nails.

Metric version:

500mm of 6mm rod for the staircase pole. It can be steel, aluminum, wire, wood, or
just about anything.
And you’ll need some good wood glue and a few small nails.

Steps 1 to 3. The eave soffit, the frieze board and preparing

for the roof

The roof

Ft and inch version:

The roof is a 45° pitched hip roof with a dormer. It is constructed from 1/2″ MDF
board, all except for the eaves (the underside of the overhang at the bottom of the
roof), which is constructed from ¾” x 2 ½” and ¾” x ¾” wood.

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Metric version:
The roof is a 45° pitched hip roof with a dormer. It is constructed from 12mm MDF
board, all except for the eaves (the underside of the overhang at the bottom of the
roof), which is constructed from 70mm x 18mm, and 18mm x 18mm wood.

Step 1. The eave soffit

Ft and inch version:

Out of ¾” x 2 ½” wood, cut two pieces 29″ long with a 45° miter at each end. Also cut
two pieces 14¼ long with a 45° miter at each end.
Then glue and nail the four pieces together in ‘picture frame’ style.
Fix some temporary blocks around the perimeter to hold it all in place.

Metric version:

Out of 70mm x 18mm wood, cut two pieces 725mm long with a 45° miter at each
end. Also cut two pieces 355mm long with a 45° miter at each end.
Then glue and nail the four pieces together in ‘picture frame’ style.
Fix some temporary blocks around the perimeter to hold it all in place.

Step 2. The frieze board


The frieze board is the bit that runs around the underside of the roof and encircles
the house walls.

Ft and inch version:

To fix the frieze board to the soffit, cut to length, and glue and nail ¾” x ¾” wood on
top of the soffit (‘picture frame’), 2″ in from the edge, all the way around.

Metric version:

To fix the frieze board to the soffit, cut to length, and glue and nail 18mm x 18mm
wood on top of the soffit (‘picture frame’), 50mm in from the edge, all the way
around.

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Step 3. Preparing for the roof 

 When the glue has dried, turn the eave unit over so it is actually the right way up.
Fix some temporary wood pieces around the outside of the eave unit (‘picture
frame’).
This is to hold the pitched roof pieces in place until the glue dries.

Step 4. Cutting the roof pieces

Ft and inch version:

The roof pieces that sit on top of the eaves are all cut from 1/2″ MDF board.

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Metric version:

The roof pieces that sit on top of the eaves are all cut from 12mm MDF board.

Below are the drawings of all the individual pieces with both the measurements and
the angles.

Note that most of the cuts are compound angle cuts. You will have to set the blade
on your circular power saw or bench saw to the required angle for most of the cuts.
The angles are given in the drawings below.

There are three different angle cuts required to cut all the roof pieces. They are – a
square cut (normal), a 35° of square cut, and a 45° of square cut.

What this means is where it says “angle cut 35° back” in the drawings below, you will
need to make that cut with the saw blade on your circular or bench saw tilted 35°.
Likewise with the cut that says “angle cut 45° back”: you will need to make that cut
with the saw blade on your circular or bench saw tilted 45°.

Ft and inch version


 

Metric version
Step 5. Putting the roof together

Once all the MDF roof pieces have been cut, apply glue to all the edges and position
them in place on the eaves (the picture frame) and lean them against each other.

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The temporary holding strips of wood that have been fixed to the sides of the
eaves (as in Step 3) will hold the bottom of the MDF roof pieces in place, and by
leaning the pieces in towards the center and propping them against one another,
the roof will take shape automatically. The sequence of pictures below shows the
order of placement, which is as follows:
Picture 1: The front and back pieces [piece 1a] and [piece 1b] glued, placed, and
propped against each other.
Picture 2: The side pieces [pieces 2] glued, placed, and propped against the front
and back pieces.
Picture 3: The dormer pieces [pieces 3] glued, placed, and propped against the
front piece and against each other.
Picture 4: The insides of the dormer being trimmed in readiness for the dormer
front wall.


Step 6. Fitting the dormer front wall

Ft and inch version:

First mark the size and shape of the dormer front wall onto a spare piece of MDF
board.
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Do this by holding a piece of 1/2″ MDF board up against the front of the dormer and
marking (with a pencil) the dormer opening (from inside the dormer) onto the piece
of MDF board.
 Then cut the triangular dormer front wall and mark, drill, and cut out the windows.
The procedure for cutting out the windows is the same for every window in the
dollhouse, i.e. marking the center of the window, drilling through the center with a 1″
drill bit, and then making the window square with a jigsaw.

Metric version:

First mark the size and shape of the dormer front wall onto a spare piece of MDF
board.
Do this by holding a piece of 12mm MDF board up against the front of the dormer
and marking (with a pencil) the dormer opening (from inside the dormer) onto the
piece of MDF board.

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Then cut the triangular dormer front wall and mark, drill, and cut out the windows.
The procedure for cutting out the windows is the same for every window in the
dollhouse, i.e. marking the center of the window, drilling through the center with a
25mm drill bit, and then making the window square with a jigsaw.

The pictures below show the order of making the windows and fitting the dormer
front wall.
Picture 1: Mark where the windows are to go and find the centers.

Picture 2: Center punch the middle of the windows (a starting guide for the drill
bit). 

Picture 3: Drill the holes and then make square with a jigsaw.

Picture 4: Apply some glue and fit the dormer front wall into the opening.
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Ft and inch version:


Metric version:

Steps 7 to 8: Cutting the wall, floor and door pieces and

cutting the arched internal doorways
Step 7. Cutting the wall, floor, and door pieces

Ft and inch version:

From 1/2″ MDF board, cut all the pieces to the dimensions given in the drawing
below.
All of the pieces can be cut out of a 4ft x 4ft sheet, as shown in the drawing below.

Metric version:

From 12mm MDF board, cut all the pieces to the dimensions given in the drawing
below.
All of the pieces can be cut out of a 1200mm x 1200mm sheet, as shown in the
drawing below. 
Step 8. Cutting the arched internal doorways

Ft and inch version:

Cut the internal door holes 2½” wide and 6½” high with an arched top (optional). Set
them back 1½” from the front end of the walls. This applies to all three internal
walls.

Metric version:

 Cut the internal door holes 62mm wide and 162mm high with an arched top
(optional). Set them back 37mm from the front end of the walls. This applies to all
three internal walls.

Steps 9 to 10 Fixing the vertical side strips and assembling

the walls, floors and doors

Step 9. Fixing the vertical side strips

Ft and inch version:

Fix a length of ¾” x ¾” wood (with glue and nails) vertically up the front end of both
side walls.
Off-set the bottom of the vertical side strips ½” (the thickness of the floor board)
up from the bottom.
The vertical side strips are there to give added support to the hinges.

Metric version:


 Fix a length of 18mm x 18mm wood (with glue and nails) vertically up the front end
of both side walls.
Off-set the bottom of the vertical side strips 12mm (the thickness of the floor
board) up from the bottom.
The vertical side strips are there to give added support to the hinges.

Step 10. Assembling the walls, floors, and doors

To assemble the walls and floors refer to the plan below for measurements, and
the sequence of pictures for the order of assembly.
Use glue along all the joins and use small nails where needed.

Ft and inch version:


Metric version:


Step 10 continued… Assembling the walls, floors, and doors

The pictures below continue showing the order of assembly.


Picture 1 below: Putting hinges on the doors and trying them for size.

Picture 2 below: The doors taken off so the window holes can be made. Window
placement is a personal preference. Refer to step 6 for details on how to make the
holes.


Step 11. Making the spiral staircase

Ft and inch version:

The spiral staircase is a series of small wooden blocks (steps) fanned around a
length of ¼” rod, and glued together.
Making the steps: From a length of 3/4″ thick wood approximately 1¾” wide (more
or less), cut 12 pieces (steps) at 2 3/8″ long, and shape them as shown in the
drawing below.
Drill a 1/4″ hole through each piece, also shown in the drawing.
Thread a 1/4″ thick x 20″ long rod (the pole) through the holes in the steps. Have the
pole sticking out 1/2″ at the bottom.
The part that sticks out goes into the hole in the bottom floor.
Apply glue between each step and then fan them around to make a spiral of even
treads.
Then clamp them together until the glue dries.
Drill a 4½” diameter hole in the top floor where you want the stairwell to be, and a
1/4″ hole in the bottom floor directly below to take the bottom end of the pole.


Metric version:

The spiral staircase is a series of small wooden blocks (steps) fanned around a
length of 6mm rod, and glued together.

Making the steps: From a length of 18mm thick wood approximately 43mm wide
(more or less), cut 12 pieces (steps) at 59mm long, and shape them as shown in
the drawing below.
Drill a 6mm hole through each piece, also shown in the drawing.
Thread a 6mm thick x 500mm long rod (the pole) through the holes in the steps.
Have the pole sticking out 12mm at the bottom.
The part that sticks out goes into the hole in the bottom floor.
Apply glue between each step and then fan them around to make a spiral of even
treads.
Then clamp them together until the glue dries.
Drill a 112mm diameter hole in the top floor where you want the stairwell to be, and
a 6mm hole in the bottom floor directly below to take the bottom end of the pole.

Ft and inch version:

Next cut a piece of 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ (or similar) wood, 6″ long (the pole support). Rebate
the ends of the pole support as shown in the drawing below and drill a 1/4″ hole in
 the middle of it.

Metric version:

Next cut a piece of 18mm x 40mm (or similar) wood, 150mm long (the pole
support). Rebate the ends of the pole support as shown in the drawing below and
drill a 6mm hole in the middle of it.

The hole is to take the top end of the staircase pole.

Cut into the top of the internal walls so that the top of the pole support piece sits
snugly in place, and ensure the hole (in the pole support) is directly above the pole
hole in the bottom floor. 

Note: There is no need to fix (glue or nail) the pole support permanently. You will need
to remove it and replace it while fitting the staircase.
Step 12. A bit of paint and that’s that

And that’s it… as far as the building process goes.

Time to get imaginative with the painting and decorating.

Once painted, the spiral stairs can be put in place, the doors fitted, and the roof
popped on.

Let the kid (or kids!) get involved with the decorating – they will love it.

Furniture can be made out of cardboard, blocks of wood, or bits and pieces found
around the house – just to mention a few possibilities.

It is a good idea to have the dolls before the furniture-making process begins, to
ensure everything is size compatible. Have fun!


    

TAGS: fo r the kids

Les Kenny



Buildeazy.com st art ed as a hobby for Les Kenny over eight years ago when he decided
he would share his successful DIY project s wit h t he wider world, put t ing t hem up
online for anyone to access.
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3 Comments
 GENE  Reply
August 27, 2019 at 9:01 pm

On page 8 of t he purchased plans it st at es to cut bot h pieces 1a and 1b to an overall lengt h of 29

inches. I t hink t his lengt h should be 26 inches to correspond wit h t he 26 inches used to cut t he long
side of t he eave soffit on page 7. Aft er I got all of t he roof pieces cut out I st art ed to put it toget her
and saw t hat pieces 1a and 1b were too long. Assuming I am correct and 1a and 1b should be 26
inches t hen my next quest ion is, does t he 14 3/4 measurement at t he top of 1a and 1b have to be
short end by t he same amount or does it st ay t he same? I am enjoying t his project and will be able to
not make silly mist akes when I build my second one as soon as I finish t his one. I cert ainly am
learning how to cut t he 35 and 45 degree angles. T he secret when using a skill saw is to always be
able to see where t he blade is cut t ing and not rely on t he guide on t he saw.

Buildeazy reply:

T hank you for point ing t hat out . T here was a measurement error in St ep 1. T he long side of t he eave
soffit in St ep 1 should be 29 inches (not 26 inches).
It has now been rect ified.

Les Kenny

Narzędzia na Allegro
Allegro

E.  Reply
August 27, 2019 at 9:03 pm

Here a some pict ures of my finished doll house. As you can see I added some shut t ers to t he
windows. I want to give you some feedback of my experience doing t his build.

1. When I had finished t he build, t he roof did not fit . I had to saw away part of t he frieze board to make
it fit . T he reason for t his was t hat in placing t he frieze board in 2 inches from t he out side edge of t he 
frame only leaves 10 1/4 inch of space (14.25 minus 4 equals 10.25). T he doll house is 9 inches wide
plus t he back (1/2 inch) plus t he board added across t he top front for st abilit y (3/4 inch) which
tot als 10.25. To solve t his problem as I build my second doll house, I am put t ing t he frieze boards in
by only 1 3/4 inches. T his will allow plent y of clearance for t he roof to fit .

2. If t he t wo piece 3 pieces are cut as shown on page 6 of t he plans t hey will not work since t hey are
ident ical. I plan to move t he lower piece 3 to t he upper right hand corner of t he board as a mirror
image and I t hink it will work fine.
3. T his one you are already aware of. T hat is t he incorrect lengt h ( 26 vs 29) on t he first board I cut on
page 7 of t he plans.
4. On page 9 of t he plans you show t he inside of t he dormer being t rimmed for readiness for t he
front wall. T his would be much easier if you marked t he dormer on t he front of t he roof and t rimmed
out what is necessary prior to gluing t he dormer in place.

St art ed my second doll house today and hope to have an easier t ime based on my experience of
building my first one.
E. St evens

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LES  Reply
June 6, 2021 at 9:39 am

Hi, t hanks for post ing t his. What scale is t his 1/12 or 1/24?

T hanks