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DOVER

BOOKS ON FASHION

ACKERMANN’S COSTUME PLATES, Rudolph Ackermann. (0-486-23690-0)


ALTMAN’S SPRING AND SUMMER FASHIONS CATALOG, 1915, B.
Altman & Co. (0-486-28527-8) BRITISH COSTUME FROM EARLIEST
TIMES TO 1820: WITH 468 ILLUSTRATIONS, Mrs. Charles H. Ashdown.
(0-486-41813-8) EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY FRENCH FASHION PLATES
IN FULL COLOR, Stella Blum (ed.). (0-486-24331-1) EVERYDAY
FASHIONS OF THE THIRTIES AS PICTURED IN SEARS CATALOGS,
Stella Blum (ed.). (0-486-25108-X) EVERYDAY FASHIONS OF THE
TWENTIES AS PICTURED IN SEARS AND OTHER CATALOGS, Stella
Blum. (0-486-24134-3) FASHIONS AND COSTUMES FROM GODEY’S
LADY’S BOOK, Stella Blum (ed.). (0-486-24841-0) PARIS FASHIONS OF
THE 1890s: A PICTURE SOURCEBOOK, Stella Blum (ed.). (0-486-24534-
9) VICTORIAN FASHIONS AND COSTUMES FROM “HARPER’S
BAZAR,” 1867–1898, Stella Blum. (0-486-22990-4) WESTERN WORLD
COSTUME: AN OUTLINE HISTORY, Carolyn G. Bradley. (0-486-41986-
X) HISTORIC COSTUME IN PICTURES, Braun and Schneider. (0-486-
23150-X)
ENGLISH CHILDREN’S COSTUME 1775–1920, Iris Brooke. (0-486-42984-9)
AMERICAN DRESS PATTERN CATALOGS, 1873–1909, Nancy Bryk. (0-
486-25654-5)
FASHION AND WOMEN’S ATTITUDES IN THE NINETEENTH
CENTURY, C. Willett Cunnington. (0-486-43190-8) HISTORY OF
UNDERCLOTHES, C. Willet Cunnington & Phyllis Cunnington. (0-486-
27124-2) AMERICAN VICTORIAN COSTUME IN EARLY
PHOTOGRAPHS, Priscilla Harris Dalrymple. (0-486-26533-1) DESIGNS
BY ERTÉ; FASHION DRAWINGS AND ILLUSTRATIONS FROM
“HARPER’S BAZAR,” Erté. (0-486-23397-9) ERTÉ’S FASHION
DESIGNS, Erté. (0-486-24203-X)
ERTÉ’S THEATRICAL COSTUMES IN FULL COLOR, Erté. (0-486-23813-
X)
X)
FRANKLIN SIMON FASHION CATALOG FOR 1923, Franklin Simon & Co.
(0-486-27854-9) VICTORIAN AND EDWARDIAN FASHION, Alison
Gernsheim. (0-486-24205-6)
WHAT PEOPLE WORE, Douglas Gorsline. (Available in U.S. only.) (0-486-
28162-0) FRENCH FASHION ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE TWENTIES,
Carol Belanger Grafton (ed.). (0-486-25458-5) AUTHENTIC VICTORIAN
DRESSMAKING TECHNIQUES, Kristina Harris. (ed.). (0-486-40485-4)
AUTHENTIC VICTORIAN FASHION PATTERNS: A COMPLETE
LADY’S WARDROBE, Kristina Harris. (ed.). (0-486-40721-7) COSTUMES
OF THE GREEKS AND ROMANS, Thomas Hope. (0-486-20021-3)
FRENCH FASHIONS OF THE ROMANTIC ERA IN FULL COLOR: 120
PLATES FROM THE “PETIT COURRIER DES DAMES,” 1830–34, Judy
M. Johnson. (0-486-26734-2) COSTUME THROUGH THE AGES: OVER
1400 ILLUSTRATIONS, Erhard Klepper. (Available in U.S. only.) (0-486-
40722-5) A HISTORY OF COSTUME, Carl Köhler. (0-486-21030-8)
COSTUME DESIGN IN THE MOVIES: AN ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO THE
WORK OF 157 GREAT DESIGNERS, Elizabeth Leese. (0-486-26548-X)
CHILDREN’S FASHIONS OF THE PAST IN PHOTOGRAPHS, Alison
Mager (ed.). (0-486-23697-8) MEN’S FASHION ILLUSTRATIONS FROM
THE TURN OF THE CENTURY, Jno. J. Mitchell Co. (0-486-26353-3)
WOMEN’S FASHIONS OF THE EARLY 1900s, National Cloak and Suit
Co. (0-486-27276-1) ANCIENT EUROPEAN COSTUME AND FASHION,
Herbert Norris. (0-486-40723-3)
MEDIEVAL COSTUME AND FASHION, Herbert Norris. (0-486-40486-2)
UNIFORMS OF THE UNITED STATES ARMY, 1774–1889, IN FULL
COLOR, H. A. Ogden. (0-486-40107-3) AUTHENTIC FRENCH FASHIONS
OF THE TWENTIES, JoAnne Olian (ed.). (0-486-26187-5) CHILDREN’S
FASHIONS, 1860–1912, JoAnne Olian. (0-486-27615-5)
EVERYDAY FASHIONS, 1909–1920, AS PICTURED IN SEARS
CATALOGS, JoAnne Olian. (0-486-28628-2) EVERYDAY FASHIONS OF
THE FORTIES AS PICTURED IN SEARS CATALOGS, JoAnne Olian
(ed.). (0-486-26918-3) WEDDING FASHIONS, 1860–1912, JoAnne Olian.
(0-486-27882-4)
WOMEN’S AND CHILDREN’S FASHIONS OF 1917, Perry, Dame & Co. (0-
486-27128-5) A DICTIONARY OF COSTUME AND FASHION:
HISTORIC AND MODERN, Mary Brooks Picken (0-486-40294-0)
HISTORIC AND MODERN, Mary Brooks Picken (0-486-40294-0)
RACINET’S FULL-COLOR PICTORIAL HISTORY OF WESTERN
COSTUME, Auguste Racinet. (0-486-25464-X) EUROPEAN CIVIL AND
MILITARY CLOTHING: FROM THE FIRST TO THE EIGHTEENTH
CENTURY, Frederick Stibbert. (0-486-41748-4) VECELLIO’S
RENAISSANCE COSTUME BOOK, Cesare Vecellio. (0-486-23441-X)
AUTHENTIC EVERYDAY DRESS OF THE RENAISSANCE, Christoph
Weiditz. (0-486-27975-8) EVERYDAY DRESS OF RURAL AMERICA,
1783–1800, Merideth Wright. (0-486-27320-2)





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1918
Publisher’s Note

The Belle Epoque—that flamboyant display of opulence and profligate luxury—


was abruptly ended by the First World War. With the Armistice of 1918 came a
brief attempt to return fashion to prewar modes, but women had begun to attain a
freedom, previously denied them, that was reflected in dress. The figure was no
longer restricted by a corset; tubelike dresses allowed a freedom of movement
that was suited to the new dance crazes. The waistline dropped and the hemline
rose. To compensate for the simplicity of cut, these garments were ornamented
with fringes, beading, button and fur trims and other devices. Boldness in the
patterning of fabric had begun to be used earlier in the century as a result of the
Bakst and Benois designs for Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes and the Orientalism of
couturier Paul Poiret.
We tend to let the boyish image of the flapper dominate our conception of the
twenties. With her bobbed hair, short skirts and flattened chest, she seems the
epitome of the age. But in reality the flapper marks only the last few years of the
decade. For the main part, fashions were more feminine and sensuous, giving
woman the option of revealing or obscuring as much as she wished.
The sheer variety of clothes was itself impressive, ranging from elaborate
robes de style to pajama suits and a full array of sportswear. Hats tended to be
smaller than the enormous creations that had been a feature of the years just
before the war, and cloche designs dominated the last years of the twenties. The
font of all these styles, was, of course, Paris.
Founded in 1863, the magazine La Vie Parisienne assiduously noted the life
of the beau monde. Sprinkled among its cartoons, satirical pieces, gossip and
fashion news were elegant sketches documenting the latest modes. Although the
drawings were unsigned, it is clear that the fashions depicted in them were
inspired by such masters as Poiret, Fortuny, Molyneux and Lanvin. They are
presented here as a contemporary record of the evolution of the decade’s styles.
Copyright © 1987 by Dover Publications, Inc.
All rights reserved under Pan American and International Copyright
Conventions.



French Fashion Illustrations of the Twenties: 634 Cuts from “La Vie
Parisienne” is a new work, first published by Dover Publications, Inc., in 1987.

DOVER Pictorial Archive SERIES

This book belongs to the Dover Pictorial Archive Series. You may use the
designs and illustrations for graphics and crafts applications, free and without
special permission, provided that you include no more than ten in the same
publication or project. (For permission for additional use, please write to Dover
Publications, Inc., 31 East 2nd Street, Mineola, N.Y. 11501.) However,
republication or reproduction of any illustration by any other graphic service
whether it be in a book or in any other design resource is strictly prohibited.
Manufactured in the United States of America Dover Publications, Inc., 31 East
2nd Street, Mineola, N.Y. 11501

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data French fashion
illustrations of the twenties.
(Dover pictorial archive series)
1. Fashion—France—History—20th century—Pictorial works. 2. Costume—
France—History—20th century—Pictorial works. 3. Vie Parisienne—
Illustrations. I. Grafton, Carol Belanger. II. Vie parisienne. III. Title. IV. Series.
GT880.F72 1987 741.67’2’0944
87-13597

9780486141947
Table of Contents

DOVER BOOKS ON FASHION


1918
Publisher’s Note
Title Page
Copyright Page
1919
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