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STRAP

Th e L U X U R Y o f
EXPERIENCE

A travel guide to Japan

japan.travel/luxury 1
TRADITION

Time-honoured grace Th e L U X U R Y o f
EXPERIENCE
The ancient traditions woven through almost every aspect of
Japanese life are joyfully observed and generously shared.

A
GE-OLD traditions passed down through B O OK OF
centuries still play out in almost every aspect M E MOR I E S S T E E PE D I N H I S T ORY
of modern day-to-day life in Japan. Woven THE POWER Once received as the The city of UJI in Kyoto
through the very fabric of Japanese society, the OF SCENT proof of pilgrimage Prefecture is renowned for the
passionate observation of ancient practices, As precise and and worship, goshuin quality of the green tea grown
rituals and customs is what makes even the intricate as the tea (red seal stamps) are there, and boasts beautiful
most cursory of visits so constantly compelling. ceremony, incense the unique stamps temples and shrines and a
Japanese traditions are exquisite in their execution, layered with appreciation is of Japanese temples number of traditional tea rooms.
a luxurious blend of harmony, artistry, precision and significance a fascinating art and shrines. The TAIHOAN , close to the famous
that is influenced by the concept of Japanese aesthetics – ancient to witness. An experience of collecting these allows for BYODOIN TEMPLE , offers
ideals of beauty, elegance and refinement that include wabi-sabi incense workshop at the creation of an exquisite memento of a a traditional tea ceremony
(beauty in the imperfect and ephemeral), yugen (mysterious YAMADA-MATSU ’s journey: goshuincho (available for purchase experience, while TSUEN TEA
profundity and grace), iki (refined style), miyabi (elegance and Kyoto store teaches
TO A TEA
at temples and shrines, as well as stationery is believed to be the oldest
refinement) and shibui (subdued and austere beauty). the intricacies shops) are stamped with a teahouse in the country, having
Many of the traditions that are so instantly identified with of the culture, striking vermilion seal with opened in 1160 (the current
Japan – performing arts such as kabuki and bunraku (Japanese including fragrance an inscription of the date premises date back to 1673)
The intricate precision of the tea ceremony
puppetry), pottery and ceramics, calligraphy (shodo), and the listening and and name of the shrine and been run by the same
aesthetic arts of tea ceremony (chado), flower arranging (kado) and incense making. or temple written
is an experience in ritual and elegance. family for 24 generations.

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incense appreciation (kodo), idealised as the three classical arts of in calligraphy.
Japanese refinement – are known as geido or ‘the way of art’ and NE of the most iconic frothy head) being served, and a less A F I N E H E R I TAG E
are the embodiment of discipline and grace. and luxurious of Japanese formal gathering known as chakai, with SHIZUOK A PREFEC TURE is
Religion, both Buddhism and Shinto, also offers a LIT TLE LUXURIES experiences is the tea thin tea and small confections (wagashi). the largest green tea producing
rich tapestry of traditions and practices, with the OMIYA BONSAI VILL AGE in ceremony, a time-honoured The preparation and serving of matcha at region in Japan, and in addition
simple act of visiting a temple or shrine invested Saitama Prefecture is a peaceful ritual of beauty and grace. these ceremonies is known as otemae, while to sampling it there you can also
with cultural significance and steeped in neighbourhood that boasts a While tea was introduced into Japan a senchado ceremony uses tea leaves instead book a night at TABINOYA to
history, from the lighting of incense (osenko) to Th e L U X U R Y o f collection of bonsai nurseries, from China, the Japanese have elevated of powder. stay in a traditional farmhouse,
the offering of wishes on ema, small wooden EXPERIENCE beautiful bonsai gardens and the the process of making and serving tea The tea ceremony most take part in will learn about traditional
plaques hung in a shrine or temple’s grounds. world’s first museum dedicated to the art of training and to an art form. Known as chado or sado, be abbreviated and usually include thin growing methods (recognised
manicuring trees to stunning effect. Join a class at SAITAMA meaning ‘the way of tea’ (cha and sa are tea, but it will still involve traditional as a Globally Significant
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI ACADEMY or at a local nursery different ways to pronounce the word for tools and precise movements. The host, Agricultural Heritage System
such as SEIKOUEN to learn how to create your own bonsai. tea), or chanoyu, meaning ‘the serving of using a ladle (chashaku), will scoop the by the United Nations) and
tea’. The ceremony, considered one of the matcha from its container (natsume), assist with harvesting from
A privileged performance three classical arts of refinement along whisking it with a chasen once hot water spring to autumn.
The delicate refinement of geisha culture is still with incense appreciation (kodo) and flower is added. The tea bowl (chawan) will be
PA I N T E D BE AU T I E S arranging (kado), involves a theatrical placed on the tatami in front of the guest, HOM E F ROM HOM E
practiced in three traditional teahouse districts
Kokeshi, charming wooden process of preparing, mixing and serving at which point it should be picked up with NAK AO VILL AGE in Higashi
of K ANAZAWA in Ishikawa Prefecture. Here
dolls made up of a head and that is approached with Zen-like reverence the right hand and placed in the palm of Sonogi, Nagasaki Prefecture,
performers granted the title of geisha entertain select torso and covered in delicate and precision. the left hand before rotating it so as not to is a picturesque rural tea
guests in song and dance that is heavy with symbolism decoration, originated in There are two types of tea ceremony: the drink from the front of the bowl. The guest farming community overlooking
and emotion. The privilege of seeing geisha perform the Tohoku region. Five highly stylised formal ceremony known should then sip it slowly (ideally finishing Omura Bay where the generous
is jealously guarded, with an invitation required generations have crafted as chaji, which traditionally takes hours it all in about three sips), place it back on locals welcome visitors into their
to enter these teahouses; reserving a place and involves a full kaiseki meal prior to the tatami and bow and express gratitude.
ILLUSTR ATION: MIKE ROSSI

kokeshi at SAKUR AI homes. During an overnight stay


at an exclusive K ANAZAWA GEISHA KOKESHI , in Miyagi both thick tea (koicha; created using the The ceremony is completed once the guest you can join in the daily activities
PERFORMANCE is a rare opportunity Prefecture, where visitors can highest grade tea and with less water to places the chawan on the tatami with the of the farm and learn how to
to witness the graceful artistry of these learn the history of kokeshi produce a syrup-like consistency) and thin front facing the host, and the utensils used create signature dishes using
and join a workshop to paint tea (usucha; made by using more water have been cleaned and placed in their the locally produced Sonogi
performers in storied surroundings.
their own doll. and less powder, and with a characteristic original position. tea leaves.

2 The Luxury of Japan www.japan.travel 3


S TAY EXPERIENCE

Stay in style
From a floating inn to living like a monk to the ultimate in designer luxury,
unique places to lay your head abound in Japan.

RYOK ANS
These traditional inns allow for a sensory immersion
in Japanese traditions, from onsen (hot springs) bathing
to multi-course kaiseki dining. Scattered throughout the
country, some properties have been run by the same family

ONE KIND
for generations. For a truly historic stay try KOTOHIR A K ADAN
in Kagawa Prefecture, RYOK AN KUR ASHIKI in Okayama of a
Prefecture or RYOK AN TANABE in the mountain city of H I S TO R I C FA R M H O U S E
Takayama, Gifu Prefecture. ZABORIN in Hanazono, Hokkaido, Gifu Prefecture is home to the charming Indulge in exclusivity with these ‘only in Japan’ experiences.
and HOSHINOYA TOK YO , meanwhile, offer a stylish modern alpine village of SHIR AK AWA- GO (above),
take on the ryokan tradition. And for something totally unique, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where
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guntû (right), departing from Onomichi, Hiroshima Prefecture, its historic gassho-style houses provide a
is a luxurious floating ryokan that cruises the Seto Inland Sea. chance to live a rural idyll from days gone E N J OY A K A B U K I AT T E N D A S U MO
by. Some of the thatched houses, which PERFORMANCE T OU R N A M E N T
are delightfully picturesque in the summer This form of theatre is as much There are six sumo tournaments
sunshine or covered in a pillow-soft layer about the spectacle and colour of held each year: in Tokyo in
of snow in winter, offer home stay and the lavish costumes and make-up January, May and September,
guesthouse accommodation. as the drama of the story being Osaka in March, Nagoya in July
told. You can attend performances and Fukuoka in November.
at K ABUKIZA THEATRE in Tokyo, You can also choose to watch an
as well as in Osaka, Kyoto and early morning practice session
Designer luxury Fukuoka, or experience the
impressive 185-year-old KONPIR A
(asageiko), which plays out like a
brutal ballet, inside a sumo stable
Indulge in the work of celebrated architects Kengo Kuma
GR AND THEATRE (Kanamaruza) in (heya), which are mainly located
and Tadao Ando at a trio of impeccable design-led hotels: Kotohira, Kagawa Prefecture. in eastern Tokyo.
ACE HOTEL K YOTO and ONE@TOK YO are both studies
in Kuma’s tactile, arresting aesthetic, while Tadao’s
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signature Zen minimalist approach is given free rein
at SETOUCHI RETREAT AONAGI (left) in Matsuyama, Explore gold standard arts
Ehime Prefecture, on the island of Shikoku. Kintsugi is the art of repairing broken ceramics and pottery
using lacquer and gold in the belief that the visible seams
GL AMPING
imbue the object with a unique beauty. Classes are available at
Nowhere is the portmanteau of
SAIDEIGAMA in Tokyo’s Omotesando area. Or in Kanazawa,
glamour and camping realised with
more sophistication than at HOSHINOYA which produces most of Japan’s light-as-air gold leaf, you can
FUJI (below) in Yamanashi Prefecture, join a gold leaf embellishment class at GOLD LEAF SAKUDA’s
A RT F U L a glampsite of architecturally designed flagship store near the historic Higashi Chaya District.

IMAGES: © GUNTÛ; © HOSHINOYA RESORTS; DESIGN HOTELS


AC C OM MODAT ION cabins stacked amongst the lush T E M PL E L OD GI NG S
The starkly modern BENESSE landscape and looking out over Lake Accommodation experiences don’t come
HOUSE (right) on the island Kawaguchi to uninterrupted views of more singular than staying in a Buddhist
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of Naoshima blurs the line Mt Fuji and beyond. temple. Temple lodgings (shukubo) offer an F ORGE A SEE THE
between being a museum evocative experience, with evenings spent SA MUR AI K NIFE T U N A AU C T I O N S
and a hotel. Part of the dining on delicious vegetarian meals (shojin From his workshop in While Tokyo’s fish wholesale markets
compelling BENESSE ART SITE NAOSHIMA , including ryori) before rising at dawn to observe the Hashima, Gifu Prefecture, have decamped from the famed Tsukiji
Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkin installation, the stylishly mesmerising morning-prayer rituals of the master swordsmith FUSATARO site to the new TOYOSU MARKET, you can
minimalist rooms, which look out to stunning views of resident monks. The temple settlement of crafts knives and swords still apply to attend the legendary early
the Seto Inland Sea, allow guests to interact with the KOYASAN in Wakayama Prefecture has a the way they have been for morning auctions. Auctions are also held
artworks that are hung throughout. choice of atmospheric temple lodgings, centuries. Attend a class to at K ATSUUR A FISH MARKET in
while the EIHEIJI TEMPLE complex in Fukui forge your own samurai knife Wakayama Prefecture and SHIOGAMA
Prefecture also offers overnight stays. under his expert tutelage. FISH MARKET in Miyagi Prefecture.

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EXPLORE STRAP

HOKKAIDO
J
APAN’S northernmost island
of Hokkaido is an unspoilt
landscape of beauty and drama
where the seasons play out almost
theatrically. During the icy
( from top... winter months the countryside is blanketed
in pearly-white snow, luring skiers to
NISEKO , where days are spent traversing
mountain runs before resting in luxurious

Experiencing Japan
resorts such as ASPEC T and CHATRIUM
NISEKO . Spring arrives in a riot of colour,
with flowers planted to stunning effect to
create fields of rainbows at SHIKISAI NO
OK A in the town of BIEI or swathes of
colour at HIGASHIMOKOTO SHIBAZAKUR A Tohoku
O
Japan has one of the most beautiful and diverse cultures in the world,
PARK , where the ground is drenched in CCUPYING the northern tip of Honshu, the
with a wealth of mesmerising experiences to explore and indulge in.

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the delicate pink blooms of moss phlox. Tohoku region’s six prefectures – Akita, Aomori,
Autumn, meanwhile, is the perfect time Fukushima, Iwate, Miyagi and Yamagata –
NE of the great joys of travelling in Japan is to explore the awe-inspiring volcanic encompass soaring mountains, tranquil lakes and
experiencing the unique and exquisite way surrounds of NOBORIBETSU JIGOKUDANI ; breathtaking coastlines. The region is steeped in history, with
in which the Japanese approach almost every stroll along walking trails that pass by the charming towns of K AKUNODATE in Akita Prefecture
element of daily life: from their appreciation ethereal sulphurous ponds and wonder at and AIZU-WAK AMATSU in Fukushima Prefecture evocative
of craftsmanship, to their interaction with the rich autumnal colours before soaking of a time when they were samurai strongholds, and OUCHI-
nature, to their time-honoured observation away the day in NOBORIBETSU ONSEN ’s JUKU , the former post town along the SHIMOTSUKE K AIDO
of the processes and rituals of traditions. hot spring waters at TAKINOYA RYOK AN . route, hinting at life in the storied Edo Period. The temple
Even the simplest of tasks becomes an experience in its own of YAMADER A in Yamagata Prefecture is another touchstone
right. Such indulgence of time, effort, thought and passion is the Th e L U X U R Y o f E X P E R I E N C E of the area’s past glories: founded in 860, its picturesque
very definition of luxury, and it is something that visitors to the grounds stretch up a steep mountainside, painted in rich
country can easily experience for themselves – whether spending • Hike through the otherworldly shades of red and orange in autumn, to the GODAIDO HALL at
time in its buzzing cities, charming towns, idyllic islands or landscapes of the island’s national parks, the top of the mountain, which affords breathtaking views of
pristine landscapes. There are 10 distinct regions stretching from taking in L AKE AK AN , MT ASAHIDAKE , the surrounding countryside.
Hokkaido in the north to the islands of Okinawa in the south, where plumes of steam waft from the
with each presenting its own unique take on everything from ground, and L AKE SHIKOTSU . Indulge Th e L U X U R Y o f E X P E R I E N C E
cuisine to festivals to culture. in a stay at SHIKOTSUKO DAIICHI HOTEL Above:
SUIZANTEI to soak in the hot springs. Higashimokoto • Two of the country’s most spectacular summer festivals can
• JR East’s TR AIN SUITE SHIKI-SHIMA is Shibazakura Park, be witnessed in Tohoku: the NEBUTA FESTIVAL in Aomori
a truly luxurious proposition; fashioned Hokkaido. City boasts enormous intricately constructed lantern floats,
Below: Cherry
to bottom) as a ‘cruise train’, it boasts gracious staff,
elegant interiors, fine dining and ample
blossom season at
Tsuruga Castle in
while the AKITA K ANTO FESTIVAL’s nightly parade of paper
lanterns balanced high on bamboo poles and illuminated
opportunity to view the passing landscape. Fukushima Prefecture. with real flames is mesmerising.
• Standing among the primeval virgin beech forests of
Clockwise from top:
SHIR AK AMI SANCHI in Aomori and Akita Prefectures is
The beauty of winter
at Mt Yotei, Hokkaido; to know what it’s truly like to be enveloped by nature; the
Dining out in Tokyo; origins of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed forest, which
Crystal blue waters is resplendent with lakes, waterfalls and even roaming black
off Okinawa; Mt Fuji
sitting majestically on
bears, date back 8000 years.
the landscape. • A farm stay in the rural town of ODATE in Akita Prefecture
is a charmingly authentic experience, helping to pick apples
and tend to rice fields during the day (depending on the
season) and feasting on home-cooked regional cuisine that
you’ve helped to create at night with your generous hosts.

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EXPLORE

Tokai
CHUGOKU
M
ADE up of Aichi, Gifu,
Mie, Shizuoka and

T
Yamanashi Prefectures, HE prefectures of Hiroshima, Okayama, Shimane, Tottori
Tokai holds the distinction of and Yamaguchi within the region of Chugoku are truly
being home to Japan’s most iconic distinct in their character and allures. While HIROSHIMA’s
landmark, MT FUJI . The passage of affecting ATOMIC BOMB DOME and the giant red torii gate
time is writ large across this region, anchored in water at ITSUKUSHIMA SHRINE on MIYAJIMA are the
presenting a wonderful contrast region’s most recognisable landmarks, there are equally arresting
of experiences. In NAGOYA in sights to wonder at. The most curious of these is undoubtedly
Aichi Prefecture you can visit the TOT TORI SAND DUNES (Tottori Sakyu), the largest in Japan,
its ravishing historic castle in the morning and take in which offer a uniquely unexpected experience. Meanwhile,
the futuristic NAGOYA CIT Y SCIENCE MUSEUM in the MOTONOSUMI SHRINE in Yamaguchi Prefecture, with its 123
afternoon. Meanwhile, the rural idylls of TAK AYAMA and bright red torii gates that wind their way through the rugged
SHIR AK AWA- GO in Gifu Prefecture remain charmingly coastal scenery, provides stunning views out to the Sea of Japan.
true to their ancient roots.

Kansai Th e L U X U R Y o f E X P E R I E N C E

K
Th e L U X U R Y o f E X P E R I E N C E
ANSAI’S prefectures – Hyogo, • The precision and beauty of Japanese gardens are breathtaking,
• Aichi Prefecture is famous for its red hatcho miso, which Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Shiga and and OK AYAMA CIT Y boasts one of the top three in the country,

KANTO has been produced in the city of OK AZAKI for centuries.


Tour the MARUYA HATCHO MISO FAC TORY to see the
Wakayama – are resplendent with
the fascinating history of this celebrated
KOR AKUEN GARDEN , commissioned in 1687 by the local feudal
lord for his recreation and enjoyment.

W
HILE Kanto is home to the national thick umami-packed paste being made.  region, with NAR A (710–784) and K YOTO • The ADACHI MUSEUM OF ART in Shimane Prefecture includes
capital of TOK YO , its other six • Stay at a temple inn near MINOBUSAN KUONJI TEMPLE (794 until the Meiji Restoration in 1868) six gardens that can only be viewed from inside through framed
prefectures of Chiba, Gunma, Ibaraki, on Mt Minobu, Yamanashi Prefecture, to observe the each serving as the country’s capital. windows, emulating the artworks on display.
Kanagawa, Saitama and Tochigi dazzle practices of the monks in the Nichiren sect of Buddhism. While Kyoto holds sway over visitors • The castle town of HAGI in Yamaguchi Prefecture is famous for
with their abundance of experiences. The town of with its elegance and history, further its Hagi yaki pottery, which you can try your hand at creating.

F
NIKKO encapsulates the diversity of the region, sitting exploration here offers rich rewards. There

Shikoku
as it does at the entrance of NIKKO NATIONAL PARK , UKUI, Ishikawa, Nagano, Niigata and Toyama is a roster of exquisite historic castle towns
with its still lakes, wild monkeys and hot springs, and Prefectures can all be found within the Hokuriku to be discovered throughout the region
with its tradition of mountain worship; Tokugawa Shinetsu region. Winter sits spectacularly upon the including HIKONE , NAGAHAMA and the

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Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate which ruled alpine landscape here, with Nagano and Niigata delightful HIMEJI , with its UNESCO
Japan from 1603 until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, is Prefectures offering renowned ski fields such World Heritage-listed castle. Visitors can HE smallest of Japan’s four main islands, Shikoku
enshrined in the exquisitely decorated TOSHOGU SHRINE as HAKUBA and ECHIGO -YUZAWA . It is also home to Japan’s sample gourmet delights in the likes of nevertheless has some impressive experiences among
here. It also possesses a collection of blissfully untouched celebrated snow monkeys which are visible through the wispy HYOGO , the home of the mouth-watering its four prefectures of Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi and
islands that are officially part of Tokyo: the volcanic IZU clouds of the hot springs at JIGOKUDANI MONKEY PARK . The delicacy that is Kobe beef, and OSAK A , Tokushima. One of the most compelling of these
and OGASAWAR A islands (a direct ferry journey from region’s alpine peaks melt into rugged coastal scenery. The terraced renowned for its delicious street food. comes from the Japanese modern artist Yayoi
Tokyo) are a unique short break from the heart of the rice paddies and quaint fishing villages of the NOTO PENINSUL A And the peaceful repose of nature can Kusama, whose giant yellow and red pumpkins decorated with her
city to hike to the caldera of IZU OSHIMA , the largest in Ishikawa Prefecture have a glorious bygone atmosphere, while easily be found in SHIGA and WAK AYAMA . signature polka dots sit at the water’s edge on NAOSHIMA ISL AND ,
island in the chain, and snorkel off its unspoilt beaches. Toyama and Fukui Prefectures are considered by many to be two Kagawa Prefecture. These sit in brilliant contrast to Shikoku’s
Clockwise from top
of Japan’s true hidden gems. Th e L U X U R Y o f E X P E R I E N C E left: Kiyomizudera historic treasures including a number of imposing castles like the
Th e L U X U R Y o f E X P E R I E N C E Temple, Kyoto; The stunningly situated hilltop castle of OZU in Ehime Prefecture,

• Saitama Prefecture’s CHICHIBU NIGHT FESTIVAL Hokuriku Th e L U X U R Y o f


EXPERIENCE
• Kyoto’s GION MATSURI , honouring the
lively YASAK A SHRINE , is one of the most
Adachi Museum of
Art; Shodoshima
has the feel of the
which offers accommodation within its historic timber keep.

(UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage), held in


early December, is one of the country’s most effusive
celebrations, with stunning lantern floats, bustling
Shinetsu • Ishikawa Prefecture is steeped
in artisan history, with the
famous of Japan’s festivals, taking place
throughout July.
• Enjoy OSAK A’s fine dining scene at the
Mediterranean. Th e L U X U R Y o f E X P E R I E N C E

• SHODOSHIMA , an island in the scenic Seto Inland Sea and part


food stalls and spellbinding fireworks displays. city of WAJIMA on the Noto likes of AJIKITCHO , with its attentive of Kagawa Prefecture, has the feel of a Mediterranean escape, with
• Both Tochigi and Gunma Prefectures offer an Peninsula specialising in the service and masterful regional cuisine a temperate climate, idyllic beaches, a mountainous interior and
abundance of onsen (hot springs) experiences, with exacting art of lacquerware. (Kamigata ryori), and FUJIYA 1935 , for the curiosity of charming olive plantations dotting the landscape.
a collection of picturesque onsen towns dotted WAJIMAYA ZENNI offers the its artistic use of Japanese ingredients and • IYA VALLEY, Tokushima Prefecture, possesses a remote beauty of
throughout the mountainous landscape. chance to view its beautiful European techniques. undulating mountains and deep gorges best indulged in with an
collection and meet the artisans. • NAR A’s intricate history and majestic overnight stay. Consider HOTEL IYAONSEN , a modern ryokan with
• Stay at FUJIOTO RYOK AN in UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites opulent rooms, open-air baths and breathtaking views.
Clockwise from top left:
TSUMAGO , Nagano Prefecture, such as TODAIJI TEMPLE and KOFUKUJI
Toshogu Shrine; History
on display in Gifu Prefecture; a picturesque historic post town TEMPLE are best explored on a private
Winter in the Noto Peninsula. on the NAK ASENDO HIGHWAY. tour of the city.

8 The Luxury of Experience www.japan.travel 9


EXPLORE SHOP

The LUXURY of INDULGENCE


In Japan, one of the most sophisticated countries in the world when
it comes to shopping, extravagance isn’t always about price.

Kyushu
S
HOPPING is one of the most tangible forms of indulgence
when travelling, as accessible as walking into the flagship
store of an international design house or browsing one-of-

T
Th e L U X U R Y o f
HE island of Kyushu is blessed with natural a-kind boutiques for unique finds. But in Japan, shopping
wonders scattered across its seven prefectures is about more than designer labels and price tags. EXPERIENCE
of Fukuoka, Kagoshima, Kumamoto, The extravagance of shopping here is informed as much by P O T T E RY
Miyazaki, Nagasaki, Oita and Saga. The the process as the purchase. From small Japanese sweets shops Pottery making dates back
island has been stunningly carved by volcanic activity owned and operated by the same family for generations (the likes thousands of years in Japan, with
over millennia, creating fascinating sights such as of KORENYA SHINGETSUAN in Matsushima, Miyagi Prefecture, myriad different styles and finishes
Oita Prefecture’s SEVEN HELLS OF BEPPU (Jigoku), a which opened for business in 1327) to the country’s famed available in distinctive colours,
collection of bubbling, seething hot springs, and the wild luxury department stores – ISETAN MITSUKOSHI , TAK ASHIMAYA , from rustic browns and greens to
beauty of Kagoshima Prefecture’s SAKUR AJIMA . At ASO DAIMARU et al – with their immaculately uniformed lift operators KNIVES the visually refreshing combination
in Kumamoto Prefecture, bucolic villages and farms sit to stores specialising in the mastery and execution of a single item, Japanese knives are of blue and white. Kyushu’s SAGA
inside a huge caldera. The island is also rimmed with a from fans to incense, the simple act of buying something in Japan considered some of the PREFEC TURE is recognised for its
ruggedly scenic coastline and uncrowded beaches, which
OKINAWA is layered with experience, skill, attention to detail and tradition. best in the world, and pottery-making tradition, producing

J
are on display at HYUGA in Miyazaki Prefecture. While Tokyo is recognised as one of the premier shopping cities you can still have them earthen Karatsu ware and Arita and
in the world, the choice is equally compelling in towns and cities handmade to order, and

ILLUSTR ATION: MIKE ROSSI


Imari porcelain, as is OK AYAMA
Th e L U X U R Y o f E X P E R I E N C E APAN’S southernmost islands have a unique culture across the country. The same unique regional diversity that informs engraved with your name, PREFEC TURE , where the creation
that is a privilege to behold. Made up of a collection everything from the cuisine to traditions also extends to what by skilled craftsmen. of Bizen ware can be traced back to
• The SEVEN STARS IN K YUSHU sleeper train criss-crosses of islands scattered like confetti across startling blue you purchase. The luxury of going to the source and seeing how SAK AI in Osaka Prefecture the sixth century. Consider visiting
the island, offering luxury and scenery in equal measure, waters that once formed part of the ancient Ryukyu something is actually crafted is increasingly rare these days, but in renowned for the quality one of the colourful pottery fairs
with fine dining and artisan craftsmanship in abundance. Kingdom, the idyllic sub-tropical and tropical such exploration is still richly rewarded in Japan. of the knives produced held around the country each year
• SENGAN-EN in Kagoshima Prefecture is the expansive islands are closer in proximity to China than Tokyo, there, while SEKI CIT Y in – GOJOZAK A POT TERY FAIR , held
estate of the Shimazu clan of samurai who ruled here and possess a personality that is informed by their Gifu Prefecture stages an
during the Edo Period. Touring the traditional house singular history, culture and climate. Visit the architecturally Kimono and silk annual CUTLERY FESTIVAL
in August in Yamashina, a district
in Kyoto City, and ARITA CER AMIC
and manicured gardens hint at the opulence of life for impressive OKINAWA PREFEC TUR AL MUSEUM to gain an insight More than a mere item of in October, offering the FAIR , from 29 April to 5 May in Saga
Japan’s ruling class in times gone by. into the islands’ complex past, before striking out to explore them clothing, the kimono is gloriously chance to meet the knife Prefecture, are both excellent.
• Kyushu boasts a number of smaller islands that have in detail (there are plentiful flights and ferries). emblematic of the beauty of makers themselves.
a captivating allure, including AMAKUSA , AMAMI , Japanese traditions, and still holds
TOKUNOSHIMA and the UNESCO World Heritage- great cultural significance, being T R A D I T I O N A L T R E AT S
Th e L U X U R Y o f E X P E R I E N C E
listed YAKUSHIMA ISL AND , which is blanketed in worn during traditional wedding Wagashi are exquisitely crafted
ancient verdant Japanese cedar forests including • Okinawa’s cuisine is thought to have health-giving properties, ceremonies and on special occasions sweets included in traditional
1000-year-old yakusugi trees and plays host to the with Okinawans famously living long lives. Champuru is a tea ceremonies and given as
and festival days. Different
luxurious SANK AR A HOTEL & SPA . signature dish of the region, a mix of stir-fried vegetables (often gifts on special occasions; shop
styles even indicate marital status and
including goya bitter melon), tofu and meat, or seafood – try it at for them at ICHIMONJIYA WASUKE
Clockwise from top EMI NO MISE along with its ‘longevity meal’ (Chojuzen), consisting
seasonal change. Visit Kanazawa’s K AGA in Kyoto, which is believed to have been
left: Oita Prefecture’s
of 15 seasonal dishes showcasing the variety of local produce. YUZEN KIMONO CENTER to appreciate its founded in the year 1000. Sweets are appreciated
Seven Hells of Beppu
(Jigoku); A Ryukyu • Okinawa’s distinctive pottery (yachimun), made from indigenous traditional technique of dyeing, known as yuzen, not only for their taste but also for their aesthetic appeal.
dancer in Okinawa; clay, is still crafted using traditional techniques developed in the and take part in a hand-dyeing class.
The tropical beauty TSUBOYA area of NAHA on the main island. Visit the charming
of Taketomi Island.
TSUBOYA YACHIMUN STREET to create your own yachimun or GI F T W R A PPI NG
browse the boutiques for exquisite pieces made by local artisans. S TAT I O N E R Y The practice of tsutsumi
• The warm, clear tropical waters surrounding ISHIGAKI and While washi paper is available to buy involves wrapping even the
the nearby YAEYAMA ISL ANDS are an underwater wonderland throughout Japan, the town of OGAWA and the smallest of purchases in
of coral and marine life. A diving expedition here allows for neighbouring village of HIGASHI CHICHIBU in
ILLUSTR ATION: MIKE ROSSI

delicately patterned paper


close encounters with everything from whimsical blue-green Saitama Prefecture are renowned for the art. which is intricately folded
damselfishes to sea turtles to majestic manta rays. The technique of creating Hosokawa-shi, this way and that to artful effect, while silk or cotton
• Stay on the charming island of TAKETOMI , with its signature considered the exemplar of Ogawa washi furoshiki wrapping cloths tied in bows have been
Ryukyu architecture, wide beaches and blissful pace of life, in the (washi produced here), is a UNESCO used for centuries to envelop special gifts.
sophisticated resort style of HOSHINO TAKETOMI ISL AND . Intangible Cultural Heritage. 

10 The Luxury of Experience www.japan.travel 11


DINE

SH A DE S OF
BR I L L I A NC E
Located within the lush
surrounds of MINO PARK
in northern Osaka, around
30 minutes by car from the
northern hub of Umeda,
ICHIJUNISAI UENO MINO
(right) presents diners with
traditional multi-course
kaiseki meals possessed
of an elegance that has
earned it two Michelin stars.
Consider dining in autumn
when the surrounding leaves
are painted in a glorious
palette of reds, oranges and
yellows. During this time you
can also try momiji tempura,
sweet battered and fried
maple leaves.

The pursuit of excellence Th e L U X U R Y o f


EXPERIENCE

Japanese cuisine is a delicious blend of tradition, skill, seasonality and taste.


The art of exclusivity

T
A D E L I C AT E
HERE is possibly nowhere else on Earth According to award-winning chef Tetsuya Wakuda, Influenced by the works of René Magritte, chef BAL ANCE
where tradition and ritual play such seasonality is another factor that characterises Japanese Keiichi Hashimoto creates an exquisitely artful While fugu (blowfish)
an important role in the preparation, cuisine. “In Japan you can feel the season on your menu at LE SORCIER , located in Yamaguchi Prefecture, contains lethal
presentation and consumption of food as skin, but you can also taste it in your mouth,” he says. combining distinctly Japanese produce with French levels of poison, it is
Japan. It is there in the time lavished on “Knowing the [perfect] time to pick something is in culinary techniques. With just one group seated per considered a delicacy.
achieving an impeccable cut on a plate of sashimi or in the culture, and the quality and care taken on each meal and an enviable reputation, the restaurant is often Specialist chefs study for years to gain the
the way a multi-course kaiseki meal is presented at the product comes out in the taste.” booked out months in advance. skill needed to create fugu dishes, including
table to be appreciated for its beauty as well as its taste. All of these elements, along with a focus on the dining the classic whisper-thin sashimi slices dipped
Equally it is hard to think of anywhere else that boasts experience, from impeccable customer service to elegant in a citrus-laced soy sauce. SHUNPANRO in
so much regional diversity in its cuisine. Specialities and refined presentation (including time spent choosing F O R W I N E LOV E R S SHIMONOSEKI , Yamaguchi Prefecture, has
of regions, cities and sometimes even towns reflect tableware that combines different colours and textures The picturesque KOSHU VALLEY in been serving fugu since 1888.
the culture of the areas they are born in, which makes to complement the food and even reflect the seasons), Yamanashi Prefecture boasts some
eating as much an exploration of the country as setting have resulted in Japan consistently being one of the most 70 wineries dotted across the
out to see the sights. Hokkaido in the north of the awarded countries when it comes to Michelin stars. landscape. The signature white wine DI N E U N DE R T H E S TA R S
country is celebrated for the abundance and quality of The final ingredient that elevates Japanese cuisine to made here is produced from the Located in Nagano Prefecture, NORIKUR A STAR
its seafood while the fresh, vegetable-rich cuisine of its characteristic levels of excellence, says Wakuda, is native Koshu grape; there is ample AND MOON RESTAUR ANT offers the chance to dine
the southernmost islands of Okinawa boasts legendary a time-honoured dedication to the task of producing opportunity to sample it at the cellar on a menu created by Chisako Hori, one of Tokyo’s
health-giving benefits. There are also variations in taste something to the highest quality possible. “In Japanese doors located throughout the region. premier chefs, in the stunning surroundings of the
and execution, from ramen, which is made with a tonkotsu cuisine, chefs concentrate on one thing their whole Take a private taxi tour to be ferried Japanese Alps and under the canopy of the night
(pork bone) broth in Hakata and a thick miso broth in working life. A tempura chef is a tempura chef all between different wineries, speak sky. The best regional and seasonal ingredients are
Sapporo, to delicately sweet sakura mochi, a delightful their life; sushi chefs are sushi chefs all their lives.” with winemakers to gain insight into prepared table-side at a glamping-style site and
dessert of mochi (pounded rice) filled with anko (sweet Knowledge and traditions in a singular style of cooking the process of winemaking in the complemented by Japanese wines and local
red bean paste) and wrapped in pickled sakura leaves are also often handed down through generations. region and visit the wine museum, Shiga-Kogen craft beers.
(smooth and flat like a pancake in Kanto, textured and “They become masters at what they do.” A masterful before enjoying a seasonal farm-to-
round in Kansai). cuisine is the result. plate lunch at a winery restaurant.

12 The Luxury of Experience www.japan.travel 13


EVENTS

A year of wonders 5 M AY
TANGO NO SEKKU
J U N E TO A U G U S T
EISA CELEBR ATIONS Autumn
Japan’s rituals and customs play out across the country in Held nationally Naha, Okinawa Prefecture
a roster of spectacular seasonal festivals and events that are This celebration for boys is marked Okinawa’s unique identity can
by families decorating their houses be seen in the celebration of its
exquisite in their visual design and execution. with samurai figurines as symbols traditional performing arts, with
of protection and the wish they weekly events taking place during the
FEBRUARY HANAMI grow up to be brave and strong. It is Eisa Nights season, which culminates O C TO B E R
NAMAHAGE SEDO FESTIVAL Held nationally also celebrated as Kodomo No Hi in a parade of 10,000 dancers. K ANUMA AUTUMN FESTIVAL
Oga Peninsula, Akita Prefecture When cherry trees (sakura) bloom, (Children’s Day), dedicated to the Kanuma City, Tochigi Prefecture
This eccentric festival involves the Japanese enjoy hanami, cherry health and happiness of children, This lively parade features groups
Winter masked ogres (namahage) calling blossom viewing parties. Blooms with the raising of carp flags.
12-15 A U G U S T
AWA ODORI FESTIVAL of musicians being carried around
into homes to scare children into appear on Okinawa in January, in the Tokushima City, Tokushima Prefecture on carved wooden floats (yatai)
behaving in the year ahead. main cities in Honshu in late March- One of the largest dance festivals and engaging in musical duels.
early April, and in Tohoku and in Japan is resplendent with joy and
15 -16 F E B R U A R Y Hokkaido in late April-early May. colour. For those unable to attend S E C O N D S AT U R D AY O F N O V E M B E R
15 J A N U A R Y YOKOTE SNOW FESTIVAL during the festival days, the AWA TAIMATSU AK ASHI FESTIVAL
NOZAWA ONSEN FIRE FESTIVAL Yokote, Akita Prefecture 3 MARCH Summer ODORI FESTIVAL HALL explores the Sukagawa, Fukushima Prefecture
Nozawa Onsen, Nagano Prefecture To honour the Japanese water deities, HINA MATSURI 400-year history of the dance and This fire festival sees 30 hulking
One of Japan’s most famous fire traditional igloos (kamakura) are Held nationally guests can experience live Awa Odori torches paraded through town to the
festivals, this one involves the constructed and charmingly Girls’ Day celebrates the health and dances performed daily. summit of Mt Goro and lit at sunset.
burning of a giant wooden structure lit with candles at night. happiness of girls, with displays of
(shaden) invested with a deity. elaborately dressed ceramic dolls F I R S T S U N D AY I N J U N E 2-7 A U G U S T 2- 4 N O V E M B E R
and the giving of pretty sweets. MIBU NO HANA TAUE AOMORI NEBUTA FESTIVAL K AR ATSU KUNCHI FESTIVAL
E A R LY F E B R U A R Y Kitahiroshima Town, Aomori City, Aomori Prefecture Karatsu, Saga Prefecture
SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL 14 -15 A P R I L & 9 -10 O C TO B E R Hiroshima Prefecture A highlight of this festival is the In celebration of a bountiful harvest,
Sapporo, Hokkaido Prefecture TAK AYAMA FESTIVAL During this unique celebration parades of breathtaking towering 14 gigantic floats (hikiyama) are
Sapporo’s celebrated snow festival Spring Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture cattle are decorated with necklaces lanterns made of washi paper. paraded through the town. For those
sees ephemeral snow sculptures Intricately decorated floats (yatai) are and elaborately adorned saddles, The NEBUTA MUSEUM WA-R ASSE visiting outside of the festival, the
lit to stunning effect at night, paraded through the streets of the and colourfully dressed girls plant encapsulates the atmosphere of floats are on display at the HIKIYAMA
as well as a great variety of city’s old town to celebrate spring or rice seedlings to music and songs to the festival and houses lanterns EXHIBITION HALL , near Karatsu
winter outdoor activities. a good harvest in autumn. ensure a bountiful harvest. used in past parades. Shrine, throughout the year.

T
HE Japanese have a reverential in February), and L AKE K AWAGUCHI in Crane watching K U M A N O KO D O
BRE ATHE Once the preserve of
relationship with nature, Yamanashi Prefecture, where the snow- The elegant red-crowned crane (tancho),
believing it to be the source capped MT FUJI is perfectly framed in the designated as a natural monument, can be emperors and samurai,
of life-giving sustenance and distance by clusters of pink petals. Wisteria seen in Hokkaido’s KUSHIRO MARSH . Here, the UNESCO World
Th e L U X U R Y o f
energy, the representation of exquisite also proliferates in spring, with tunnels of Heritage-listed Kumano
EXPERIENCE some 650 breeding pairs live according to the
N AT U R A L beauty, and possessed with mystical
spirituality. From soaring mountains to
fragrant hanging blooms at ASHIK AGA
FLOWER PARK in Tochigi Prefecture
seasons, with their mesmerising mating dance
taking place against a snow-covered backdrop
Kodo is an ancient
pilgrimage trail through
rugged coastlines, from dense forests to and K AWACHI WISTERIA GARDEN in the unspoilt KII
HIGHS verdant valleys, the country is a wonderland Kitakyushu, Fukuoka Prefecture. from December to late February. PENINSUL A in the
of diverse natural experiences. Japan’s other seasons play out across the prefectures of
The most celebrated manifestation 30 national parks that form a patchwork U M E : T H E OT H E R S A K U R A THE THR EE Wakayama, Mie, Nara
While its hyper-lit of nature’s allure is the cherry blossom from top to bottom. From the drama of Some of the first spring blossoms to appear are on plum MOU N TA I N S and Osaka. The joy of
(sakura), which bursts into bloom across the ethereal fumaroles of SHIKOTSU-TOYA trees (ume), which bloom during February and March OF DE WA the experience is in its
cityscapes often spring
the country during spring. Pilgrimages NATIONAL PARK in Hokkaido, to weaving (you can distinguish between cherry and plum blossoms The Three Mountains of Dewa – MT HAGURO, removal from the whirl
to mind, Japan is a vast
ILLUSTR ATIONS: MIKE ROSSI

to see the delicate pastel flowers through the more than 400 idyllic islands by looking at their petals: cherry blossoms have a slight MT GASSAN and MT YUDONO – in Yamagata of modern life, walking
landscape of pristine inevitably include MT YOSHINO in Nara in Kyushu’s SAIK AI NATIONAL PARK , to split at the end, while plum blossom petals are rounded). Prefecture have been an epicentre of mountain its trails through lush
natural beauty. Prefecture, the historic samurai village the blissful isolation of Okinawa’s lush During this time many Japanese enjoy the plum blossoms worship (yamabushido) for some 1500 years. forests, past ancient
of K AKUNODATE in Akita Prefecture, YAMBURU NATIONAL PARK , Japan’s at places such as SUZUK A FOREST GARDEN in Mie Here, visitors can immerse themselves in the temples and staying in
K AWAZU in Shizuoka Prefecture (the national parks provide opportunity for Prefecture, MINABE-BAIRIN in Wakayama Prefecture and simplicity of nature and quiet contemplation traditional inns.
trees here commence their floral blush rejuvenation, contemplation and relaxation. DAZAIFU TENMANGU SHRINE in Fukuoka Prefecture. to still their soul.

14 The Luxury of Experience www.japan.travel 15


Th e L U X U R Y o f
EXPERIENCE

A travel guide to Japan

Hokkaido
Sapporo

Sapporo ramen
Aomori (miso broth, butter, corn)

Gassho-zukuri
village

Maiko / Geiko Sakura


(cherry blossom)

Sendai

Honshu
Shirakawa-go
Adachi Museum of Art

Mt Fuji Tokyo
Yasugi Hakone
Kyoto
Nagoya
Himeji
Naoshima Osaka
Himeji Castle Hiroshima
Koyasan Onsen
(hot springs)
Fukuoka
Oita
Shikoku

Kyushu

Shodoshima olive park


Danjo Garan Temple

Okinawa
Naha Seven Stars in Kyushu
ILLUSTR ATION: MIKE ROSSI

Ryukyu Buyo cruise train


(traditional
Okinawan dance)

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