Professional Documents
Culture Documents
When you walk down a bungalow block in Berwyn, you notice that these brick houses
with limestone and other architectural details create a rhythmic streetscape and a
neighborhood feel that many urban planners try to replicate in new developments, but
can’t. It’s for these reasons that the City of Homes organization developed the Berwyn
Bungalow Preservation Initiative.
The typical features of the Chicago style The primary entrance into a Chicago style
bungalows in Berwyn include: bungalow affects the configuration of the
» Built between 1900 and 1945. façade as well as the floor plan:
» Brick construction, with face brick on the Offset front entrance – most common entry
street facing sides. allows for open living and dining room space
» Limestone insets ranging from intricate Side entrance – understated entrance at the
and complicated decorative stones to side of the house that allows for more windows
windowsills, stair and pier caps. and light in front room
» Low pitched roof with overhang. Central front entrance – least common among
» Predominant roofline perpendicular to Chicago style bungalows likely because it is
the street. not conducive to the narrow floor plan of the
» Generous windows, often with leaded or Chicago bungalow
stained glass.
» Situated on narrow lots, 25-35 feet wide. The primary feature of the front façade
» Single family residence with a basic floor plan of the Chicago style bungalow is the
configuration, with few exceptions, consisting front window:
of 2-3 bedrooms, with one bathroom on one Flat – simple and most common
side and the living room, dining room, and Square – flat protruding bay from the main
kitchen (in order from front to rear) on the central mass of the bungalow
other side. Polygonal – distinctive 3, 5 or 7-sided bay
protrusions
The subtypes of Chicago style bungalows differ Curved – least common with softened or
based on the structure’s entrance, façade and rounded corners
roofline variations.
DO DON’T
A ■ Do retain masonry or stone planter box ■ D
on’t remove or replace historic planters
brackets when and where they exist (A) when they exist
■ Do retain historic planters and planter boxes ■ D
on’t remove or replace existing stone
when they exist (A) planter supports on building front
■ Do restore or replace missing original plant- ■ Don’t
use plastic or wood planters
ers with new appropriate planter boxes when
B brackets exist on the front façade (A/B)
■ Do restore or replace missing cast
accents at the historic locations with
appropriate accents
■ Do restore or repair ornamental exterior
wood mouldings and trim to match the
original (B)
C ■ Do replace missing original planter urns lo-
cated at the entrance stairs with appropriate
replacement urns (C)
DO DON’T
A D ■ Do restore existing historic wood doors (A) ■ D
on’t remove or radically change entrances
■ Do replace non-historic doors with compat- and porches that are critical in defining the
ible new styles including compatible original overall historic character of the home so that,
period hardware (B) as a result, the home’s character is diminished
(D)
■ Do add thin profile storm door similar in size,
shape and color of existing door
■ D
on’t replace original door at all
B E ■ Do retain and repair historic light fixtures.
■ D
on’t enclose porches in a manner that re-
Replace later, non-historic fixtures with new sults in a diminution or loss of historic char-
or restored historic fixtures that match the acter by using solid materials such as wood,
original design (C) stucco, screen, or masonry (E)
■ Do repair and restore porch steps to their
■ D
on’t remove historic porch brick wing walls.
natural material and color Non-historic ones can be removed if desired,
but should be replaced with walls of compat-
■ Do repair or rebuild front porch wing walls ible design and material
C F with brick and mortar that match the face
brick and joint profile and color
■ D
on’t carpet, tile or paint stairs and porch (F)
■ D
on’t paint address numbers on steps
■ D
on’t remove original stone planters
A D DO DON’T
■ Do retain and repair original window sash, ■ D
on’t remove art glass windows
frames and trim whenever possible ■ D
on’t replace an entire window when repair
■ Do re-caulk around the window frames and of materials and limited replacement of dete-
repair window hardware riorated or missing parts are appropriate
■ Do replace non-historic replacement win- ■ D
on’t use vinyl replacement windows on
B E dows with windows that are an accurate rep- street facing elevations
resentation based on historical, pictorial, and ■ D
on’t replace existing double hung or case-
physical documentation; or use a new design ment windows with single fixed glass picture
that is compatible with the window openings or slider windows
and the historic character of the home
■ D
on’t install glass block in-fill windows on
■ Do restore and retain existing art glass win- street facing elevations
dows (B/C)
C F ■ D
on’t enlarge or reduce window openings to
■ Do add thin profile storm windows similar in fit a stock window frame or change the shape
size, shape and color to existing windows (A) of the window frames
■ D
on’t replace existing attic windows with a
slider window on the street facing elevations
■ D
on’t obscure historic window trim with metal
or other material such as awnings or anodized
G storm windows or grills (G)
■ D
on’t install window air conditioners or metal
awnings on the street facing elevation
■ D
on’t replace an entire window when repair
of materials and limited replacement of dete-
riorated or missing parts are appropriate
DO DON’T
A ■ Do build expansions that are compatible to ■ Don’t
expand the size of the bungalow by
the original building in material, style and constructing a new addition when the new
proportions use could be met by altering non-character-
■ Do locate additions on the rear or least defining interior space
character-defining elevation of the building ■ D
on’t attach a new addition so that the
■ Do build second floor additions with a similar character-defining features of the bungalow
are obscured, damaged, or destroyed (C)
B roof pitch as the original structure
■ Do match window openings, trim eaves and
■ D
on’t design a new addition so that its size
other details as close as possible to the origi- and scale in relation to the historic building
nal building are out of proportion, thus diminishing the
historic character (B/C)
■ Do erect garages and rear additions that
match the existing house materials, colors
■ D
on’t build attic expansions that are unchar-
and details acteristic of the period and style and material
C of the building and surrounding neighbor-
hood (A/C)
A DO DON’T
■ Do repoint masonry with mortar that matches ■ D
on’t repoint masonry with Portland cement,
the original in color and joint profile concrete or masonry cement
■ Do grind out old mortar 3/4˝ when repointing ■ D
on’t use a mortar that is stronger than type
to ensure an adequate bond N (1-1-6)
■ Do clean masonry with low-velocity (less than ■ D
on’t over fill the mortar beyond the face of
B 400 psi) water or steam cleaning the brick
■ Do repair or replace damaged masonry with ■ D
on’t paint masonry or limestone (A/B/C)
matching materials ■ D
on’t use masonry sealer
■ Do remove existing building materials that do ■ Don’t
change the width or joint profile when
not match the original materials and charac- repointing
teristics
■ Don’t
sandblast, high power water wash or
C use muriatic acid to clean masonry or remove
paint
■ D
on’t grow vines onto the building walls
■ D
on’t use imitation materials such as syn-
thetic stucco, vinyl or aluminum siding, stucco,
pseudo stone or metal panels over masonry
■ D
on’t patch concrete without correcting the
source of deterioration
■ D
on’t remove a masonry feature that is unre-
pairable and not replace it or replace it with a
new feature that does not convey the original
appearance
DO DON’T
A C ■ Do replace or repair the roof with asphalt ■ D
on’t strip the roof of sound historic material
shingles or clay tile matching the historic such as clay tile or slate
color and pattern ■ D
on’t use roll roofing, which is not the same
■ Do replace or repair metal or copper gutters as asphalt shingles and more common to use
and downspouts where leaks are discovered in utility buildings
(A) ■ D
on’t use caulks, sealants or tar as a
B D ■ Do add insulation and vapor barriers in flashing material (C)
the attic and add vents to prevent moisture ■ D
on’t locate satellite dishes or TV antennas
build-up within 20 feet of the front of the bungalow so
■ Do make sure all downspouts direct water as not to be visible from the public way (D)
away from the foundation ■ D
on’t change the configuration of the roof by
■ Do reuse historic brick when rebuilding adding non-historical features on the street-
the chimney facing elevation
■ Do keep the chimney flashing and cap in
good repair to prevent water leakage
■ Use metal flashing (B)
DO DON’T
■ Do maintain the individual space configura- ■ D
on’t install permanent partitions that dam-
tion and essential proportions of the primary age or obscure character-defining spaces,
spaces (entry, front room, dining room, and features, or finishes.
hallway) ■ D
on’t remove historic, character-defining
■ Do retain, and preserve historic interior fea- features, such as a mantel, or wood trim.
tures and finishes, such as historic wood strip ■ D
on’t remove a finish that could be repaired.
floors, lighting fixtures, wood trim and decora-
tive fireplace.
■ D
on’t remove a damaged feature and not
replace it with a new feature that matches.
■ Do remove damaged or deteriorated paints
and finishes to the next sound layer using the
gentlest method possible
■ Do rehab attics or basements to provide ad-
ditional living space if desired.
■ Do rehab and update kitchens and bathrooms
to meet contemporary code and accessibility
needs
When replacing or restoring, it is helpful to remember the phrase “like for like.” This means
the replacement materials should be as close as possible in design, composition, and size
to the original materials. Many times obtaining the COA coincides with the need to obtain
a building permit, as such, the following are examples of building permits requiring a COA
if your bungalow is a designated local historic landmark:
» Concrete, Pavers or Asphalt work » Decks, Porches, Stairs, Hand railings
» Fireplace installation » Siding, Gutters, Soffit and Fascia
» Demolition work » Stucco or Brick replacement
» Additions and Dormers » Tuckpointing
» Interior and exterior structural alterations » Pressure washing
» Garages and Accessory Buildings » Roofing
» Replacement windows including glass
block windows