Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal

Fashion orientation, shopping mall environment, and patronage intentions: a study of female fashion
shoppers:
Richard Michon Jean-Charles Chebat Hong Yu Linda Lemarié
Article information:
To cite this document:
Richard Michon Jean-Charles Chebat Hong Yu Linda Lemarié , (2015),"Fashion orientation, shopping mall environment, and
patronage intentions: a study of female fashion shoppers", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International
Journal, Vol. 19 Iss 1 pp. -
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 Fashion Orientation, Shopping Mall Environment, and Patronage Intentions:
A Study of Female Fashion Shoppers

More than 60 percent of non-anchor stores in major shopping centers specialize in apparel,

footwear, and accessories, and three quarters of these stores specifically target female

shoppers (Michon, Yu, Smith & Chebat, 2008). In response to increasing competition from

lifestyle centers, power centers, and factory outlets, many regional and super-regional malls

are relying more and more on luxury fashion brands, such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton,
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Ferragamo and even Hermes to distinguish themselves (Moin, 2006). Cheap chic fashion

found at Forever 21, Zara, H&M, and Aerospatiale also drive customers to the mall (Katz,

2009, Lloyd & Luk, 2010). Mall operators striving for fashion-forward positioning must

understand how fashion customers shop, carefully select the tenant mix, and create a favorable

retail ambiance (du Preez & van der Vyver, 2010; Stoel, Wickliffe & Lee, 2004; Teller &

Elms, 2010).

This research explores female fashion shoppers’ perception of the shopping mall and

their response to the retail environment. More specifically, it investigates the complex

interplay between fashion orientation, perceived mall personality, shopping value and

patronage intentions. The latent path structural equation model (Bentler, 2005) investigates

mediation and moderation effects of female shoppers’ fashion orientation.

Although fashion consumers have been studied from diverse perspectives, there is

limited research on the experience of fashion shoppers in a mall setting (Michon, Yu, Smith &

Chebat, 2008). This study partly fills this gap in the literature by investigating how female

fashion shoppers respond to the shopping center environment and commit to mall patronage.

Within consumer research, patronage intention is defined as the intention of consumers to

behave in a certain way with regard to spending time in a shopping facility, interacting with

sales associates and products, and possibly purchasing products and services (Donovan &
 Rossiter, 1982).

Fashion orientation is believed to influence female shoppers’ perception of the mall

environment and their experience in it. This is based on Gutman and Mills’ (1982) integrative

analysis of fashion lifestyle segments, and the development of a fashion orientation scale

comprising four dimensions: 1) fashion leadership; 2) fashion interest; 3) the importance of

being well-dressed; and 4) anti-fashion attitude. These four dimensions have previously been

replicated in other studies (e.g. Chung, 1996, Lee, Park & Chung , 2004, Park & Burns, 2005,
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Visser & du Preez, 2001).

The Gutman and Mills (1982) fashion orientation scale was designed and validated

with female shoppers only. Most of the literature on fashion and apparel shopping orientation

focuses on female shoppers (e.g. Beaudoin, Moore & Goldsmith, 2000; Gutman & Mills,

1982; Shim & Bickle, 1994; Shim & Kotsiopulos, 1993; Visser, du Preez & du Toit, 1996).

Gender comparison is an interesting research topic. The inclusion of male shoppers

skews findings on fashion orientation and apparel shopping (Beaudoin, Lachance & Robitaille,

2003). The theory of male shopping behavior is closely associated with gender roles in the

broad social environment (Otnes & McGrath 2001) and lifestyles (Visser & Zietsman (2007).

Kwon (1987) investigated the motivating factors for daily clothing selection among male and

female consumers. Apparel choices might be linked to self-enhancement for females, while

male seemed to relate to social status and hierarchy. Subsequently, Kwon (1991) discovered

that females are more sensitive to different mood states than males, affecting their choice of

clothing. Otnes and McGrath (2001) further suggest that many women “shop to love”

whereas men “shop to win.”

 Conceptual Framework

Fashion Orientation

Fashion consumers have been studied extensively in past 20 years. While some studies

have focused on identifying fashion leaders, innovators, followers, and rejecters (Behling,

1992; Gutman & Mills, 1982), others have attempted to investigate motivations (Evans, 1989),

and document the demographic and lifestyle profiles of fashion shoppers (Shim &

Kotsiopulos, 1993; Vieira, 2009; Yu, 2011). Because fashion is primarily concerned with
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novelty (Evans, 1989), it is often considered to be an innovative way for fashion adopters to

express their “self” to others. In turn, it is also representative of the pursuit of individuality

within a socially acceptable understanding of uniqueness (Sproles, 1985; Burns 2010).

In a study of fashion leaders’ and followers’ self-concepts, Goldsmith, Flynn and

Moore (1996) found that fashion leaders considered themselves more excitable, indulgent,

contemporary, formal, colorful, and vain than fashion followers. Goldsmith, Heitmeyer and

Freiden (1991) associated social values with fashion leadership in order to explain motives

underlying fashion purchases. They reported that consumers who possessed high values of fun,

enjoyment, and excitement in their lives were indeed more fashion-conscious. Workman and

Kidd (2000) used the “Need for Uniqueness Scale” to characterize fashion consumer groups

and claimed that a significantly greater need for uniqueness exists among fashion opinion

leaders, fashion innovators, and innovative communicators than among fashion followers.

They further suggest that the need for uniqueness may explain consumers’ adoption and

disposal of fashion products. Fashion leaders are motivated by the necessity to differentiate

themselves from others, whereas opinion seekers (especially less experienced younger

consumers) look for guidance and normative fashion consumption (Goldsmith & Clark, 2008).

Because fashion orientation is so intimately close to one’s self perception, it is

considered a trait, or a stable predisposition that influences perceptions and drives attitudes
 (e.g. Alport, 1961; Cattell, 1980; Vieira, 2009). Fashion shoppers are likely to perceive

shopping malls according to their motivations for uniqueness, differentiation or normative

support, and self-congruity (du Preez & van der Vyver, 2010). Therefore, fashion orientation

is likely to be an antecedent to shopping behavior.

Environmental Psychology

Mall shopping behavior is best explained by the environmental psychology paradigm

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(Donnovan & Rossiter, 1982; Mehrabian & Russell, 1974,) and by the Servicecapes (Bitner,

1992). Environmental psychology originally rests on the emotion-cognition theory which in

turn, leads to two contrasting forms of behavior, approach and avoidance (Donovan &

Rossiter, 1982; Fiore & Kim, 2007). Approach is a desire to stay, explore, and affiliate,

whereas avoidance is the opposite.

An alternate theory posits that cognition elicits emotions (Lazarus, 1991). External

and internal cues must be evaluated in terms of one's own experience and goals, including

fashion orientation traits. "Appraisal of the significance of the person-environment

relationship, therefore, is both necessary and sufficient; without a personal appraisal (i.e., of

harm or benefit) there will be no emotion; when such an appraisal is made, an emotion of

some kind is inevitable" (Lazarus, 1991: p. 177). The cognition-emotion theory has received

empirical support in retail atmospherics (Baker, Parasuraman, Grewal & Voss, 2002;

Spangenberg, Crowley & Henderson, 1996).

Retail environment (music, ambient odor, décor, design, etc.) helps shoppers who have

difficulty evaluating intangible attributes such as fashion-forward merchandise, prestige,

merchandise quality, service, and value (Bitner, 1992). Consumers also interpret retail

atmospherics cues to categorize (Bitner, 1992) and assess the appropriateness of shopping

malls and stores (Babin, Chebat & Michon, 2004). Shoppers’ perceptions of the mall

environment influence the perception of merchandise and service quality perceptions. For
 example, products displayed in an environment with bright lights and popular background

music are generally rated lower in quality than the same product selections displayed in a

softly lit place with classical background music (Baker, Grewal, & Levy, 1992). Fashionable

items are not perceived as favorably when framed by warm colors (i.e., red or orange) than by

cool colors (i.e., blue) (Bellizzi et al., 1983; Bellizzi & Hite, 1992; Crowley, 1993). Finally,

the same piece of apparel will be perceived differently if shown at Nieman Marcus or

available at Wal-Mart (e.g. Lloyd & Luk, 2010).

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Mall Personality

Until recently, mall operators and retail researchers believed that shopping malls did

not have an image but benefited from store image. The image of anchor stores or major mall

tenants was transferred to other parts of the shopping center, including secondary stores

(Burns, 1992; Kirkup & Rafiq, 1994). There are a number of studies arguing that shopping

malls have an image of their own (Bearden, 1977; Downs, 1970; Finn & Louviere, 1996;

Lindquist, 1974-1975). More recently, in a controlled experiment, Chebat, Sirgy & St-James

(2006) showed that malls had a personality that impacted the perception of retail stores.

Most studies on retail image are based on tangible and observable functional attributes

(e.g. Martineau, 1958; Mazursky & Jacoby, 1986) or on intangible and psychological features

(Fisher, 1974; Marcus, 1972). Some researchers have projected anthropomorphic constructs

to commercial objects, brands or stores where personality is measured exclusively from

mental dimensions corresponding to human traits (Aaker, 1997; d’Astous & Lévesque, 2003).

The formal, expressive, and symbolic human qualities of retail environments communicate

various messages to consumers (Fiore & Ogle, 2000), and may influence their inferences

about merchandise, service quality, and store image (Babin, Darden & Griffin, 1994).

Sincerity, excitement, competence, sophistication, and ruggedness are the personality traits

uncovered by Aaker (1997). Fashion stores are mainly characterized by sophistication and
 enthusiasm (d’Astous & Lévesque, 2003; Brengman & Willems, 2009). Store sophistication

can be described as chic, elegant, high class, selective, snobbish, stylish and upscale. Store

enthusiasm is a proxy for congenial, daring, dynamic, friendly, lively, and welcoming

(d’Astous & Lévesque, 2003)

Mall personality traits may be matched with shoppers’ own self-image congruence or

self-congruity (e.g. Sirgy, 1985; Sirgy, Grewal & Mangleburg, 2000; Sirgy & Samli, 1985).

Shoppers associate retail environmental cues with their own characteristics. Selected cues
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strengthen shoppers’ self-congruity, and self-congruity helps building shoppers’ attitude

toward the store or the mall and creating a valuable shopping experience (Chebat, Sirgy & St-

James, 2006).

Shopping Value and Outcome

Shopping goes beyond functional utility and task orientation (Bloch, Sherrell &

Ridgway, 1986; Wesley, LeHew & Woodside, 2006), and provides other experiential benefits

and gratifications (Fiore and Kim, 2007; Holbrook, 1986; Holbrook & Corfman, 1985). Two

dimensions summarize perceived shopping values (Babin & Attaway, 2000; Babin, Darden &

Griffin, 1994): utilitarian value, which reflects task-orientation, and hedonic value, which

indicates the level of personal gratification and self-expression associated with the shopping

experience.

Utilitarian and hedonic values are not opposed but complementary and positively

correlated. One can imagine a task-oriented shopper who would be at the bottom of the

hedonic dimension. The reverse is less likely. Hedonic shoppers must also be motivated

by perceived shopping goals (Michon & Chebat, 2004). The shopping mall environment

induces a positive shopping affect that has a favorable impact on perceived shopping value,

which in turn encourages shoppers to exhibit repeat purchase behaviors (Babin & Attaway,
 2000; Parsons, 2011). It has been argued that the shopping experience of fashion followers

may be mood driven, while that of fashion leaders is triggered by higher involvement

cognitive processing (Michon, Yu, Smith & Chebat, 2008).

Research Hypotheses

Fashion orientation (Gutman & Mills, 1982) is associated with self-concept

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(Goldsmith, Flynn & Moore, 1996), the need for uniqueness (Workman & Kidd, 200) and

normative approval (Goldsmith & Clark, 2008). It is an enduring trait that is antecedent to the

perception of the shopping mall personality (d’Astous & Lévesque, 2003) and shopping

experience (Babin, Darden & Griffin, 1994). High fashion oriented shoppers are more likely

to shop at upscale department and specialty store than at mass merchandisers (Gutman and

Mills, 1982). Fashion oriented shoppers may be more critical in evaluating service quality

and store image (Yan, Yurchisin & Watchravesringkan, 2010).

H1: As an enduring trait and antecedent, fashion orientation will influence how

fashion shoppers perceive the shopping center image.

Environmental psychology (Meharabian & Russell, 1974) and servicescapes theory

(Baker, Parasuraman, Grewal & Voss, 2002; Bitner, 1992; Fiore & Kim, 2007) posit that

shoppers’ perception of the retail environment impacts their perception of the quality of

products and services. The symbolic personality of the mall (sophistication and enthusiasm)

induces shoppers’ inferences about product and service quality (Baker, Darden & Griffin,

1994):

H2a: Fashion shoppers’ perception of the mall sophistication will positively affect

perceptions of product quality

 H2b: Fashion shoppers’ perception of the mall sophistication will positively affect

perceptions of service quality

H2c: Fashion shoppers’ perception of the mall enthusiasm will positively affect

perceptions of product quality

H2d: Fashion shoppers’ perception of the mall enthusiasm will positively affect

perceptions of service quality

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The shopping mall congruent environment (Sirgy, Grewal & Mangleburg, 2000) and

favorable perception of product and service quality elicit positive affect enhancing the

shopping experience (Babin & Attaway, 2000; Parsons, 2011), including personal

gratification and self-expression. Perceptions of product and service quality should enhance

the enjoyment of shopping and facilitate shopping objectives

H3a: Fashion shoppers’ perceptions of product quality will prompt positive hedonic

shopping benefits.

H3b: Fashion shoppers’ perceptions of product quality will prompt positive utilitarian

shopping benefits.

H3c: Fashion shoppers’ perceptions of service quality will prompt positive hedonic

shopping benefits.

H3d: Fashion shoppers’ perceptions of service quality will prompt positive utilitarian

shopping benefits.

In accordance with the environmental psychology paradigm, shoppers who undergo

positive shopping experiences are likely to adopt an approach behavior (Donovan &

Rossiter, 1982) and patronize the mall:

 H4a: Fashion shoppers experiencing hedonic shopping value will express mall

patronage intentions.

H4b: Fashion shoppers experiencing utilitarian shopping value will express mall

patronage intentions.

INSERT FIGURE 1 ABOUT HERE

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Research Method

Mall Intercept

Data collection was carried out with a state-of-art mall intercept survey. Located in

Montreal, Canada, the 675,000-square foot upscale, urban fashion mall houses some exclusive

specialty stores. Graduate M.Sc. students in marketing were responsible for conducting the

fieldwork: some were responsible for recruiting participants as they exited the mall, while

others supervised the self-administered questionnaire. To avoid systematic sampling biases,

recruiters had to meet selection criteria based on age and gender distribution, the day of week,

and the time of day to reflect normal mall traffic patterns.

The survey questionnaire included Gutman & Mills’ (1982) fashion orientation scale;

d’Astous & Lévesque’s (2003) store personality scale adapted for the shopping mall; product

and service quality cognitive structure from Downs (1970); Babin, Darden & Griffin’s (1994)

shopping value scale; and patronage intentions derived from Donnovan & Rossiter (1982).

The questionnaire was available in English and in French, along participants’ choice. It was

translated in French and translated back into English for accuracy. A total of 479

questionnaires were collected. Exploratory analysis showed that male and female shoppers

behaved differently on the Gutman & Mills’ (1982) fashion orientation scale that was

originally developed and tested among female shoppers only. Furthermore, male and female
 shoppers had distinctive factor loadings on Babin, Darden & Griffin’s (1994) shopping value

scale. In order to minimize model entropy, it was decided to remove male shoppers (n = 167)

from the cohort at this stage of the study. The profile of the female shoppers in the study

(n = 312) is presented in Table 1.

INSERT TABLE 1 ABOUT HERE

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Measurement Scales and Model

The conceptual model (Figure 1) was operationalized with a structural path analysis,

using EQS maximum likelihood algorithm (Bentler, 2005). The model ties together several

constructs: fashion orientation (Gutman & Mills, 1982), mall image (d’Astous & Lévesque,

2003), perception of product and serviced quality (Downs, 1970), shopping experience (Babin,

Darden & Griffin’s, 1994), and shoppers’ approach/avoidance (Donovan & Rossiter, 1982).

For parsimony reasons and to avoid model noise, three to four indicators per latent

variable were kept (e.g. Bollen, 1989, p. 244; Kline, 2005, p. 314). In the case of

multidimensional constructs, factors not directly pertaining to the study were dropped. All

measurement indicators used in the structural path analysis are shown in Table 2, along with

EFA factor loadings and alpha coefficients.

Fashion orientation: Gutman & Mills’ (1982) fashion orientation scale was preferred

to other similar scales that focus more on a single aspect such as innovation or leadership.

The scale which is frequently cited in the literature consists of 17 five-point

agreement/disagreement statements that load on four dimensions: fashion leadership; fashion

interest; the importance of being well-dressed; and anti-fashion attitude. Because of inter-

correlated factors, one dimension (importance of being well-dressed) was selected as a proxy

for fashion orientation. In a study on fashion orientation and compulsive buying, Park and
 Burns (2005) also observed that the first three dimensions were highly correlated, and only

kept fashion interest as an exogenous variable.

It appears that the importance of being well-dressed is a necessary condition for

fashion leadership and fashion interest. In order to exert fashion leadership or demonstrate

fashion interest, one must first believe in the importance of being well-dressed. Fashion

leadership and fashion interest are personality traits on which retailers have little or no

influence. However, retailers can try to influence shoppers on the importance of being well-
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dressed. Furthermore, one can acknowledge the importance of being well-dressed without

necessarily wanting to be a fashion leader or having the utmost interest in fashion. The

importance of being well-dressed is often dictated by social norms or external situations rather

than by personal interest. The construct is measured with 7-point agreement/disagreement

statements (alpha = .81).

Store personality: The store personality scale developed by d’Astous and Lévesque

(2003) was extrapolated to that of the shopping mall. It was originally inspired by Aaker’s

(1997) brand personality dimensions. Shoppers were asked to rate their agreement with

eleven 5-point Likert-type agreement/disagreement statements. The store personality scale has

five components: enthusiasm, sophistication, unpleasantness, genuineness, and solidity. Only

the first two factors, which account for 70 percent of the scale Eigenvalues (d’Astous and

Lévesque, 2003) were retained. Enthusiasm (alpha = .88) can be equated to an arousing

atmosphere, and sophistication (alpha = .91) is associated to an upscale environment.

Shopping mall merchandise quality and service quality: These two separate constructs

respectively yielded alpha coefficients of .81 and .92. Statements with 5-point Likert-type

scales were adapted from Downs’ (1970) cognitive structure of an urban shopping center.

Shopping experience response: Babin, Darden, and Griffin’s (1994) shopping value

scale was used to capture the hedonic (alpha = .81) and utilitarian (alpha= .70) shopping
 benefits. Shopping dimensions were measured on 7-point Likert-type

agreement/disagreement scales.

Patronage intention: Approach/avoidance (Donovan & Rossiter, 1982) is captured

through patronage intention. The latter was measured with three 5-point scale items (alpha

= .87) customized to this specific shopping mall.

INSERT TABLE 2 ABOUT HERE

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Research Findings

The latent path analysis model reveals that shoppers’ fashion attitude (importance of

being well-dressed) has no significant influence on their perception of the mall environment

(Figure 2) contrary to the assumption in H1. Shoppers’ perception of the mall personality

(sophistication and enthusiasm) positively stimulates the perception of product and service

quality. Yet, the mall sophistication dimension only affects the perception of product quality

– H2a (standardized coefficient .45, z = 6.39) and has no impact on the perception of service

quality (H2b). On the other hand, the mall enthusiasm personality factor only connects to the

perception of service quality – H2d (.34, z = 5.03) and has no influence on the perception of

product quality (H2c). Perceptions of product and service quality constructs are moderately

correlated (.43, z = 5.42). As expected, the perception of product quality prompts hedonic –

H3a (.26, z = 3.43) and utilitarian responses – H3b (.50, z = 2.32). The same is true for the

effect of the perception of service quality on hedonic value – H3c (.21, z = 2.79) and on task

orientation – H3d (.42, z = 2.24). Both shoppers’ hedonic (.20, z = 3.01) and utilitarian

responses (.64, z = 2.44) influence patronage intentions (H4a and H4b). The resulting model

displays a good fit (Chi-square = 278, df = 177, CFI = .97 and RMSEA = .046).

INSERT FIGURE 2 ABOUT HERE

 The hypothesis that fashion orientation is an antecedent and shape the perception of

the retail environment could not be verified (H1). It is inconceivable to imagine that shoppers’

fashion orientation has no role to play in a fashion-forward shopping mall. If fashion

orientation is not an antecedent to the perception of the mall personality, then it is likely to

play a moderating role in the perception of product and service quality, and/or the overall

shopping experience (Yan, Yurchisin, & Watchravesringkan, 2010). In a competing model

(Figure 3), fashion orientation (importance of being well-dressed) moderates the perception of
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product quality (.20, z = 3.26), shoppers’ hedonic response (.17, z = 2.38), and mall patronage

intentions (.14, z = 2.08). Following the introduction of the moderating variable, other path

coefficients do not vary significantly from the original model. The moderating variable

notably adds to the goodness of fit (Chi-square = 300, df = 236, CFI = .98 and RMSEA

= .032), and enhances the understanding of the role of fashion orientation in mall shopping

behavior. At first glance, the alternate model appears more complex with the addition of 59

degrees of freedom. Yet, the incremental chi-square value (X2d = 22) is not significant. The

competing model AIC parsimony index (-71.53) compared to that of the baseline model (-

75.05) indicates a better fit. Initial research hypotheses are reviewed below.

INSERT FIGURE 3 ABOUT HERE

Review of Hypotheses

H1: As an enduring trait and antecedent, fashion orientation will influence how

fashion shoppers perceive the shopping center image. H1 is rejected. Fashion orientation is

not an antecedent to the perception of the mall atmosphere. Nonetheless, the construct

moderates the perception of product quality, the hedonic shopping values and patronage

intentions.
 H2a: Fashion shoppers’ perception of the mall sophistication will positively affect

perceptions of product quality. H2a is confirmed. Fashion shoppers infer about the product

quality from their perception of the mall sophisticated image.

H2b: Fashion shoppers’ perception of the mall sophistication will positively affect

perceptions of service quality. H2b is not accepted. While the mall sophisticated image

influences the perception of production quality, it does not affect the perception of service

quality. Mall sophistication appears to be a “cold” construct with an impact on objects, not on
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interpersonal relationship.

H2c: Fashion shoppers’ perception of the mall enthusiasm will positively affect

perceptions of product quality. H2c is rejected. The mall “warm” enthusiasm personality

factor does not affect the perception of inanimate objects.

H2d: Fashion shoppers’ perception of the mall enthusiasm will positively affect

perceptions of service quality. H2d is acknowledged. The mall enthusiasm dimension is

associated with excitement. It is projected on the perception of service quality. This is a

“warm” enhancing perception of empathic service quality.

H3a and b: Fashion shoppers’ perceptions of product quality will prompt positive

hedonic shopping benefits (H3a) and positive utilitarian values (H3b). H3a and b are confirmed

in support of the extent literature. It should be noted that the effect of the perception of

product quality is stronger on the utilitarian shopping value than on the hedonic shopping

experience.

H3c and d: Fashion shoppers’ perceptions of service quality will prompt positive

hedonic shopping benefits (H3c) and utilitarian shopping benefits (H3d). H3c and d are verified.

Again, the standardized coefficient on utilitarian shopping value is twice as large as the one

leading to the hedonic shopping value.

 H4a and b: Fashion shoppers experiencing hedonic shopping value (H4a) and

utilitarian shopping value (H4b) will express mall patronage intentions. H4a and b are validated,

as found in the shopping value literature. Here, fashion patronage intentions are mostly

shaped by shoppers’ task orientation (utilitarian value) rather than by the shopping hedonic

experience.

Discussion
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Testing the Right Model

As hypothesized and supported in the literature, the perception of the mall

environment has a positive impact on the perception of product and service quality. However,

the mall’s sophisticated personality dimension moderates the perception of product quality

and has no relevance to the perception of service quality. On the other hand, the mall’s

enthusiasm dimension only affects the perception of service quality. While the mall

sophistication attribute appears to be a “cold” factor that projects itself onto objects, the

enthusiasm construct may be a “warm” factor that plays with interpersonal relations. In a

previous study, Baker, Parasuraman, Grewal and Voss (2002) found that store design

perceptions influenced both the service and product quality dimensions.

The attainment of shopping goals for fashion shoppers supplants the hedonic shopping

experience. The impact of product and service quality on utilitarian value is two-fold above

that of the hedonic response. Similarly, the utilitarian shopping dimension has three times

more impact on patronage intentions than the hedonic experience. In other words, fashion

shopping might be fun, but shoppers must also find what they are looking for.

At first, it was hypothesized that the fashion orientation of female shoppers would

shape their perception of the mall. Specifically, female shoppers looking for something in

particular (fashion) were expected to have a more selective perception of their environment.
 This hypothesis is not verified; fashion orientation moderates shoppers’ response to their

environment, as it modifies the perception of product quality and also has a positive impact on

the hedonic shopping experience. The importance of fashion orientation on patronage

intention is partially mediated by the perception of product quality and by the hedonic

response (Figure 3).

Patronage intentions are either directly or indirectly shaped by several factors. Table 3

outlines the effects of all model constructs on mall patronage intentions. Total effect
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coefficients are highly significant. Fulfilled shopping objectives (.63, z = 2.14) is by far the

most important influence on patronage intention. The perception of merchandise quality (.32,

z = 4.25) and service quality (.26, z = 3.62) are in second place, and certainly moderate

shoppers’ utilitarian value. The importance of being well-dressed as a proxy for fashion

orientation (.24, z = 3.34) is as important as the perception of service and product quality, and

magnifies shoppers’ cognitive, affective and behavioral response to the retail environment.

The effect of shoppers’ hedonic response (.17, z = 2.38) on patronage intentions is relatively

weak, but significant in comparison with other intervening factors. In addition, mall

personality factors, such as sophistication (.11, z = 2.85) and enthusiasm (.15, z = 3.56) play

an important role with respect to shoppers’ intentions. The mall is more than a repository of

retail stores; it is a store unto itself.

The Person-Place Congruency

Globally, the mall personality (i.e., sophistication and enthusiasm) and fashion

orientation shape shoppers’ hedonic response and behavioral intents. This finding clearly

confirms the person-place congruency theory that Morrin and Chebat (2005) tested and

validated in another major shopping mall environment. This model builds upon the work by

other researchers (Mitchell, Kahn & Knasko 1995, Spangenberg, Grohmann and Sprott (2005)
 who found support for contextual congruency effects in laboratory studies. Mitchell, Kahn,

and Knasko (1995) observed contextual congruency in terms of the match between the type of

scent emitted and type of product being chosen by the consumer (e.g., chocolate scent while

choosing from a chocolate assortment) on variety-seeking behavior and aspects of consumer

memory. Spangenberg et al. (2005) discovered contextual congruency between the type of

scent and the type of music concurrently played in a simulated retail environment (e.g.,

Christmas music versus non-Christmas music combined with Christmas scent). In this current
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study, place personality (i.e., sophistication and enthusiasm) and shopper’s personality trait

(i.e., fashion orientation) interact on perception of quality, hedonic response and behavioral

intent.

Findings have major implications on both environmental psycholgoy theory and retail

management. In terms of theoretical implications, conclusions lead to a better understanding

of the variability of environmental cues. The same environmental cues that affect some

shoppers’ perceptions, emotions and behavior positively may have no or even negative effects

on others. Few studies have yet pointed out these effects of shoppers’ personality, with the

exception of Morrin and Chebat (2005) that pointed out that impulsivity moderates the effects

of environmental cues.

INSERT TABLE 3 ABOUT HERE

Managerial Implications and Future Research

An effective shopping mall environment is likely to increase shopping value and

influence consumers to engage more deeply in their approach behavior, staying longer in the

mall. Furthermore, those who experience a pleasurable shopping trip are more likely to exhibit

patronage intentions (Stoel et al, 2003). However, shopping malls cannot be everything to

everyone without risking diluting their image. The mall physical design, atmosphere and
 tenant mix add value to the product offering through enhancing consumers’ perception of

quality and differentiation, augmenting the likelihood of purchases, and ultimately impacting

sales volume and profitability.

Shopping malls targeting fashion oriented shoppers are expected to display an image

of sophistication, communicating discriminating style, elegance, flair, smartness, urbanity,

and luxury. Many people will not feel at ease in such an environment. For these shoppers, a

sophisticated image signals higher prices, formality, ostentation, pomp, and pretention.
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To complicate things, fashion and sophistication will take a different meaning if

shoppers are from generation X, Y or Z. Fashion oriented teens are likely to be shopping for

cheap chic while their wealthier fashion forward counterparts might be patronizing luxury

boutiques. Hollister and Hermes have little in common even though both try to convey

images of sophistication.

Can a shopping mall offer luxury boutiques for wealthier and older shoppers, cheap

chic retail chains for Gen Y’s, commodity apparel stores, and avoid the hodgepodge trap?

The shopping mall is the modern and expanded form of large traditional department stores

offering wide and deep merchandise assortments. Bloomingdale's, Neiman Marcus, Saks

Fifth Avenue, and Harrods have little in common with Wal-Mart, Sears, and Target.

Downtown urban malls have the opportunity to adopt a well defined positioning in order to

differentiate themselves from the competition. Large suburban malls should partition

themselves to remove image ambiguities.

The shopping mall is a “store of stores” (Underhill, 2004, p. 19) and may be viewed as

an extension of Theodore Levitt’s (1980) augmented product concept. Paco Undershill adds

that even if the “mall is a store of stores… it does not think of itself as a store”. Mall

developers see themselves as real estate managers rather than retailers. Yet, shopping malls

generate both tangible real estate income and intangible business income (Kenney, 1991 and
 2000; Martin & Nafe, 1996). Tenants are willing to pay a higher rent as a premium for a

successful shopping center (Fisher & Lentz, 1990).

This study highlights the central role of the shopping center image in the retail

shopping process and the creation of business value. A congruent mall personality supports

the perception of retail merchandise and service quality, consumers hedonic and utilitarian

shopping experiences, and patrons' tendency to linger and shop at the mall.
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The study also illustrates the importance of fashion orientation as a moderating

variable on shoppers’ response. Mall developers pursuing a strong fashion-forward

positioning should not only recognize shoppers’ antecedents but also understand the response

mechanism. This research suggests that perception of product quality, hedonic shopping

experience, and patronage intention can be positively or negatively amplified by female

shoppers’ propensity toward fashion. Mall managers and retailers can influence shoppers’

fashion orientation through normative persuasion and positive reinforcement, as well as

trained sales associates.

The hedonic affective shopping experience is triggered by cognitive perceptual

processes. Mall managers must primarily work on the “meaning” of the mall atmosphere

rather than focusing on shoppers’ “mood”. More importantly, mall managers must not focus

exclusively on the hedonic shopping experience. Research findings outline the central role of

the utilitarian shopping value. Fashion shoppers are not in the mall for hedonic experiences

alone. They are task oriented and need to achieve their objectives. Mall managers should

design malls to facilitate the shopping experience with highly functional designs, simple

layout and clear signage in support of wayfinding.

Because findings from this study cannot be generalized to other situations, the research

should be replicated to a variety of mall formats and shopper segments. Other aspects of

fashion-orientation (leadership, interest, and anti-fashion attitude) should be considered. Of

 course, along with model complexities, increased sample sizes and control variables are

required. Future studies should also include male shoppers to investigate differences in

fashion motivations and mall shopping experiences.

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 Table 1: Female Shoppers’ Profile

Mean Purchases (SD) $61 ($95)

Language
English 44%
French 56%
Mean Age (SD) 36 yrs (16 yrs)
Children under 18 (SD) 1.2 (.77)
Formal education
<= High School 13%
Post secondary 26%
University 61%
Occupation
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At work 54%
Students 25%
Retired 11%
At home 10%
Median family income $51,000
 Table 2: Measurement Scales and Factor Loading

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Explained variance 10.5% 10.4% 10.3% 9.7% 9.6% 9.0% 8.7% 7.2%
Importance of being well-dressed (α α = .81)
Gutman and Mills (1982)
If you want to get ahead, you have to dress the
.815 -.028 -.019 .055 .121 .093 .086 .099
part.
What you think of yourself is reflected by what
.811 .021 .025 -.049 .076 .152 .071 -.045
you wear.
It’s important to be well-dressed. .801 .031 .036 .099 .061 -.103 -.020 .055
Wearing good clothes is part of leading the good
.707 -.157 .083 -.012 .023 .227 .070 -.075
life.
Sophistication (αα =.91)
D'Astous and Lévesque (2003)
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High class -.053 .914 .007 .009 .065 .042 .195 -.015
Upscale .011 .884 .012 .025 .001 .097 .111 .001
Chic -.077 .884 -.001 .044 .102 .112 .154 .019
Service quality (αα =.92)
Downs (1970)
Stores at … offer excellent service to their
.070 .004 .882 .115 .182 .096 .110 .066
customers.
Stores at … are known for offering excellent
.004 -.013 .867 .161 .096 .065 .223 .081
service.
Stores at … always offer very good service at
.050 .025 .859 .164 .133 .098 .128 .063
each visit.
Enthusiasm (α α =.88)
D'Astous and Lévesque (2003)
Dull / Bright. .041 .037 .099 .904 .067 .062 .011 .058
Unlively/Lively. .078 -.018 .128 .869 .072 .139 -.032 .013
Drab / Colorful. -.022 .055 .160 .849 -.036 .029 .029 -.088
Patronage intentions (α α =.87)
I intend to revisit the … Center. .108 .084 .170 .027 .878 -.008 .139 .020
In the future, it is likely that I will buy products
.096 .061 .111 -.015 .858 .071 .180 .098
at ….
I would gladly buy gifts at …. .090 .027 .122 .103 .806 .234 .122 .066
Hedonist response (α α =.81)
Babin, Darden and Griffin (1994)
This shopping trip truly felt like an escape. .039 .097 .120 .068 .079 .861 .041 .005
Compared with other things I could have done,
.064 .070 .149 .076 .143 .847 .065 .185
the time spent shopping was truly enjoyable.
I enjoyed being immersed in exciting new
.277 .100 -.026 .102 .052 .709 .151 .018
products.
Product quality (α α =.81)
Downs (1970)
It is very likely that items bought at … will be
.022 .113 .188 .004 .095 .119 .830 .044
of extremely high quality.
Overall, … sells high quality merchandise. .091 .240 .205 .037 .229 .149 .769 .010
When shopping at … , I expect to see high
.107 .204 .111 -.038 .185 .011 .704 .073
quality merchandise.
Utilitarian response (α α =.70)
Babin, Darden and Griffin (1994)
While shopping, I found just the item(s) I was
.032 -.003 .095 .046 .078 .118 .100 .849
looking for.
I accomplished just what I wanted to do on this
.050 -.051 -.044 .011 .021 .075 .172 .807
shopping trip.
I couldn't buy what I really needed. .067 -.084 -.203 .107 -.083 .036 .306 -.560
 Table 3: Total Effects on Patronage Intentions

Standardized
Independent variables Z-value
coefficients
1. Importance of being well-dressed .239 3.336
2. Sophistication .108 2.847
3. Enthusiasm .154 3.562
4. Merchandise quality .324 4.251
5. Service quality .256 3.620
6. Hedonic response .170 2.380
7. Utilitarian response .629 2.135
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Figure 1: Tested Model

Product
Sophisti quality Hedonic
cation response

Fashion H1 H2 H3 H4
Orientati Intention
on

Utilitaria
Enthusia Service n
sm quality response

FASHION MALL PRODUCT AND SHOPPING VALUE BEHAVIORAL

ORIENTATION PERSONALITY SERVICE QUALITY RESPONSE
 Figure 2: Tested Model with Significant Paths
Standardized Coefficients (Z-value)

Prod.
Sophistica .43 (6.39) quality .26 (3.43) Hedonic
tion response .20 (3.01)

.50 (2.32)
Intention
.43 (5.42)

.21 (2.79)
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Service Utilitarian
Enthusias response .64 (2.44)
m quality

.34 (5.03) .42 (2.24)

Method: ML Chi-Square: 278.954 DF: 177

CFI: .966 Std RMR: .054 RMSEA: .046

Figure 3: Competing Model

Standardized Coefficients (Z-value)
Fashion
orienta-
tion

.20 (3.26)
.17 (2.38)

.14 (2.08)
Sophisticat .43 (6.48) Prod. .20 (2.63) Hedonic
ion quality response

.17 (2.38)

.46 (2.05) Intention

.43 (5.31)

.21 (2.63) .63 (2.14)

Utilitarian
Enthusiasm Service
response
quality

.33 (4.91) .35 (1.91)

Method: ML
1
Chi-Square: 300.470 DF: 236
CFI: .976 Std RMR: .054 RMSEA: .032