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Abstract
Purpose – To model the relationships between consumer need for uniqueness and attention to social
comparison information with fashion opinion leadership and fashion opinion seeking.
Design/methodology/approach – A total of 201 US undergraduate students were surveyed and
standard scales were used to measure consumer need for uniqueness, attention to social comparison
information, fashion opinion leadership, and fashion opinion seeking.
Findings – Both consumer need for uniqueness and attention to social comparison information were
positively related to fashion opinion leadership. Attention to social comparison information was also
positively related to fashion opinion seeking, but consumer need for uniqueness was negatively related
to fashion opinion seeking.
Research limitations/implications – The findings are limited to US consumers and the convenience
sample. Other limitations include the specific measures used, and the cross-sectional survey method
prevents one from making causal statements. The effects of other, unmeasured variables could not be
assessed.
Practical implications – Apparel marketers seeking to encourage opinion leaders to promote their
lines of new clothing might devise appeals emphasizing the social significance of the new products and
how they bestow uniqueness on their owners. Such appeals might be more effective than those not
stressing these psychological motivations. Appeals to consumers more likely to seek than to give opinions
might also stress the social significance of the clothing, but appeals to uniqueness might not be effective
with these consumers. Perhaps a belongingness appeal would be more effective.
Originality/value – These psychological concepts have not been studied very much in the
clothing/fashion product domain. They give new insights into the psychology of clothing opinion
leaders and opinion seekers.
Keywords Motivation (psychology), Consumer behaviour, Consumer research, Consumer psychology,
Fashion, United States of America
Paper type Research paper
Introduction
Consumers influence each other in several ways. They copy each other’s behaviour;
they talk to each other, thereby exchanging information via casual conversations; and Journal of Fashion Marketing and
they seek and give opinions. Researchers recognize this last form of interpersonal Management
Vol. 10 No. 1, 2006
communication (opinion leadership and opinion seeking) as one of the most important pp. 25-40
word-of-mouth (WOM) influences on product sales and brand choice (Bristor, 1990; q Emerald Group Publishing Limited
1361-2026
Weimann, 1994). The study of WOM harkens back to the earliest days of US consumer DOI 10.1108/13612020610651105
JFMM research (American Tastemakers, 1959). Moreover, current interest in WOM is
10,1 evidenced by the appearance in recent years of several notable best-selling business
books (Gladwell, 2000; Keller and Berry, 2003; Rosen, 2000). Some even argue that
WOM is growing in importance and threatens to eclipse advertising as an influence on
product and brand choice (Donaton, 2003). Thus, the twin topics of opinion leadership
(OL) and opinion seeking (OS) are of keen importance to both consumer behaviour
26 theory and marketing management practice.
Research into WOM was stimulated by Katz and Lazersfeld’s (1955) study of
personal influence and continues unabated today. Topics include ways to harness
WOM in support marketing programmes, explanations for its power, and the best
ways to measure opinion leadership. Summaries of this research reveal demographic
and social descriptions of some of the characteristics of opinion leaders (Turnbull and
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Meenaghan, 1980; Weimann, 1994). However, little attention has been paid to studying
the psychology of opinion leadership. This is even truer of opinion seeking. In fact,
Bristor (1990, p. 61) argued “. . . word of mouth research needs to place more emphasis
on investigating the receiver”. Some reasons for OL (e.g. product, self, message, and
other involvement; Dichter, 1966) and opinion seeking (e.g. risk reduction, saving time;
Bristor, 1990) have been described, but less known about the motivational psychology
of both OL and OS. This is especially true for fashion. Because preoccupation with
appearance seems to be directly linked to the personality of consumers (Marion, 2003),
this justifies the necessity to investigate the psychological nature of the motivations to
share or to seek information related to fashion clothing. Moreover, if marketing
management is to understand and make the best use of these concepts, we should
carefully study the motivational processes of WOM.
Because WOM is preeminently a social behaviour, we propose that psychological
characteristics relevant to social interaction are prime candidates for study. Thus, we
focus on two variables that describe individual reactions to the social environment:
consumer need for uniqueness (CNFU) and attention to social comparison information
(ATSCI). Consumer need for uniqueness is a specific manifestation of a more general
personality trait, need for uniqueness (Snyder and Fromkin, 1977). Consumers differ in
the extent to which they seek to acquire and display material goods that differentiate
them from others (Tian et al., 2001). Linked as it is to the concept of conformity, CNFU
deserves study as a motivating factor in WOM. The concept of ATSCI is derived from
the broader trait of self-monitoring, which refers to the extent that people observe their
own behaviour and adapt it to the behaviours of those around them (Snyder, 1974).
Consumers differ in the how much they pay attention to other consumers and how
much others influence their behaviour (Bearden and Rose, 1990).
Because we focused on the social context of WOM, our chosen product category was
clothing, a visibly consumed good high in social and symbolic significance. Moreover,
fashion clothing exposes consumers to other’s judgement and thus is a socially risky
product (Burnkrant and Cousineau, 1975), so that the appropriate way to dress oneself
is likely to generate intensive flows of WOM communication. Thus, CNFU and ATSCI
were conceptualized and measured at the broad or global level of generality, but OL
and OS were conceptualized and measured as domain specific (clothing) constructs.
Consequently, the purpose of the present study was to test hypothetical associations
between CNFU and ATSCI with both fashion OL and OS. We chose these constructs
because:
.
they are argued to be important influences on a variety of consumer behaviours Fashion opinion
(Bearden and Rose, 1990; Tian et al., 2001), but not a lot is known of the scope of
their effects, especially as they bear on opinion leadership and opinion seeking;
.
OL and OS are important topics of concern for marketing management (Keller
and Berry, 2003), so that understanding more about the psychology of these two
behaviours may help marketing managers develop effective ways of influencing
the OL/OS exchange (e.g. Goldstein, 1999); and 27
.
both CNFU and ATSCI are consumer characteristics that can be incorporated into
marketing strategies that encourage opinion leaders to promote advertised brands.
We will suggest how they can be used to develop advertising that encourages
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Literature review
Opinion leadership and opinion seeking
Although both constructs are theoretically and practically important, the research
literature provides more information on opinion leaders than on opinion seekers. The
abundant opinion leadership research can be divided into three main streams:
identifying opinion leaders (see for example Ben-Miled and Le Louarn, 1994; Childers,
1986; Flynn et al., 1996; Goldsmith and Desbordes, 1991; King and Summers, 1970),
delineating their roles in health, fashion, agriculture, science (see Weimann, 1994, for a
review), and profiling them (e.g. Piirto, 1992). This last describes opinion leader
characteristics in order to understand their motivations and to improve marketing’s
appeals to them. This study is in keeping with this last stream.
Although opinion leadership has been defined in many ways, the concept is
consistently associated with influence (Flynn et al., 1996; Goldsmith and De Witt, 2003;
Rogers and Cartano, 1962), with information sharing (Eliashberg and Shugan, 1997;
Gilly et al., 1998; King and Summers, 1970), or both (Engel et al., 1995, p. 960). For
example, Rogers and Cartano (1962) define opinion leaders as individuals who exert an
unequal amount of influence on the decisions of others; but Eliashberg and Shugan
(1997) describe opinion leaders as persons who are regarded by a group, or by other
people, as having expertise and knowledge and who are considered as appropriate
sources for information and advice. The reasons why opinion leaders engage in
information sharing and why they influence others are important to companies that
want to target opinion leaders and to motivate positive word-of-mouth behaviours.
This concern raises the issue of antecedents of opinion leadership.
The main antecedent, which is supposed to explain the motivation to share
information and leaders’ influence, seems to be enduring product involvement (Cristau
and Strazzieri, 1996; Richins and Root-Shaffer, 1988; Venkatraman, 1990). Product
enthusiasts are interested in a product category even if they do not anticipate
purchases. Nevertheless, this variable is unable to explain exclusively the tendency to
share information and to influence others. Enduring involvement seems to act as a
necessary condition, but probably not a sufficient one. Other psychological
mechanisms must play a role (see Marshall and Gitosudarmo, 1995).
Fashion opinion leaders are a prime example of this social phenomenon. Indeed,
Weimann (1994) explains that they play the dual role of endorsers and information
sources. Their influence is both verbal and visual. In a seminal paper, Darden and
JFMM Reynolds (1972) tried to profile opinion leaders for men’s apparel fashions. They found
10,1 that characteristics such as fashion interest[1] or fashion venturesomeness are related
to opinion leadership. But in a synthesis on the subject, Weimann (1994) mentions that
researchers globally failed to associate personality traits with fashion leadership.
Opinion seeking is a more recent and still underdeveloped concept (Feick et al.,
1986). Some researches use very proximate but unsatisfactory concepts. Gilly et al.
28 (1998) propose a dyadic model to explain the influence of interpersonal sources and
integrate a variable called “word-of-mouth preference of seeker”; and, testing an
alternative model, Bansal and Voyer (2000) use the variable “word-of-mouth actively
sought”. These studies establish the importance of opinion seeking to the success of
many products, representing an adapted concept to convey those two ideas: the
intensity of interpersonal information search and the preference for interpersonal
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behaviours. At the opposite pole, people who have a low score on ATSCI seem more
able to resist normative influence and to keep their independence. Independence is
strictly opposed to conformity. Counter-conformity, however, represents a negative
reaction to normative influence. Independent people simply do not take into account
group norms, whereas counter-conformist people voluntarily adopt behaviours that
they expect to break the norms. Thus, if counter-conformity is a consequence of CNFU,
and tendency to conform is a manifestation of ATSCI, then CNFU and ATSCI should
be negatively associated (Tian et al., 2001). CNFU suggests a propensity to counteract
norms, whereas ATSCI implies a tendency to comply with norms. Moreover, Tian and
Bearden (2002) report a negative correlation of 2 0.23 between CNFU and ATSCI. We
propose the following hypothesis to replicate their findings:
H1. ATSCI and CNFU are negatively associated.
Briefly, higher scores of CNFU suppose a greater likelihood to make original and
unconventional brand and products choices that are more likely to be spotted by other
people. That is a possible explanation for:
.
fashion leaders’ selection as recommendation sources;
.
fashion leaders’ motivation to talk about products or brands; and
.
fashion leaders’ influence.
leaders are expected to have higher levels of fashion innovativeness than most other
consumers (Flynn et al., 1996), which shows their ability to be detached from social
norms. Researchers, however, find opinion leaders in fashion to have higher levels of
self-monitoring than non-leaders (Davis and Lennon, 1985). Indeed, opinion leadership
involves the disclosure of his or her self-image to others by means or verbal and
nonverbal overt behaviour (Weimann, 1994); opinion leaders may regulate their own
behaviour in order to present a particular image of themselves. This finding is
theoretically congruent with Chan and Misra’s (1990) finding of a positive association
between opinion leadership and public individuation; if opinion leaders want to be
publicly differentiated, they must consciously or unconsciously adopt a self-controlled
behaviour. Chan and Misra (1990) also argue that the act of disseminating information
through word-of-mouth communication makes opinion leaders stand out among their
group and makes them “different” from the other members; but this dissemination
generates social anxiety, especially when their actions are publicly visible.
Consequently, when leaders chose to give information, they must be willing and
able to handle this anxiety because they might feel concerned by others’ reactions and
judgements. In order to alleviate this anxiety, opinion leaders might monitor the social
cues offered by others in order to avoid being rejected by them. Therefore, the
following hypothesis are suggested:
H5. ATSCI and fashion leadership are positively associated.
Method
The questionnaire contained multi-item scales to measure the focal constructs. To
enhance data quality, two items were placed within the other measures to guard
against bogus responding (Dollinger and DiLalla, 1996). One item read: “I have tried to
answer all of these questions honestly and accurately” and used a Likert response
format where 1 ¼ strongly disagree to 7 ¼ strongly agree (of which an answer of less
than 6 warranted removal of the respondent). The second item read, “If you read this
item, do not respond to it” (for which any answer warranted removal). Of the original
209 questionnaires distributed, eight were removed either because these quality check
items caught bad respondents or because the questionnaire contained large sections of
missing data, leaving 201 respondents for the study.
We employed multi-item scales for the constructs that were used in earlier studies
and have proved to be valid and reliable measures of their respective variables. To
measure fashion leadership and opinion seeking in fashion, we used the scales
developed by Flynn et al. (1996). These were written to be domain specific measures of Fashion opinion
clothing OL and OS. Sample items read: “I often influence people’s opinions about
clothes”, and “I like to get others’ opinions before I buy a new clothing item”. We
measured consumer need for uniqueness with the 13-item scale developed by Tian et al.
(2001). An example item read: “As a rule, I dislike products or brands that are
customarily purchased by everyone”. We measured attention to social comparison
information with the 13 items shown in Bearden et al. (1989). One example read: “My 33
behaviour depends on how I feel others wish me to behave”.
The data came from a convenience sample of undergraduate students at a major US
university. Students in classes in consumer behaviour completed the questionnaire and
recruited one friend to do so also. Although this convenience sample limits
generalizability, the purpose of the study was to test theoretical relationships only and
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not to make point and interval estimates of the mean scores on the scales, and so should
be appropriate for theory testing purposes (Calder et al., 1981). Moreover, the sample was
appropriate for the study because the product topic was clothing and fashionable wear, a
product category of interest to this student-aged sample; WOM plays an important role in
the diffusion of clothing styles (Evans, 1989; Vernette, 2004); and young people such as
these place a special emphasis on WOM, considering it more important than advertising
(Keller and Berry, 2003, pp. 8, 11).
The sample comprised 92 (45.8 per cent) men and 109 (54.2 per cent) women. Ages
ranged from 18 to 41 with a mean age of 21.5 years (SD ¼ 2.6). There were 153 (76.1 per
cent) white respondents, 15 (7.5 per cent) African-Americans, 29 (14.4 per cent)
Hispanics, and 4 (2 per cent) Asian-Americans. There was no statistically significant
ð p , 0:05Þ difference in mean age between the men and women[2].
Table I. Notes: * * p , 0.01, * p , 0.05. a Cronbach’s alpha coefficients shown in parentheses on the diagonal;
b
Descriptive statistics and standard errors in parentheses. CNFU ¼ Consumer need for uniqueness; ATSCI ¼ Attention to
correlations social comparison information; OL ¼ Fashion opinion leadership; OS ¼ Fashion opinion seeking
reported by Flynn et al. (1996). This result verifies the idea that “. . . there’s often a
dialogue between people who spread the word about a product and those who are on
the receiving end” (Rosen, 2000, p. 81). The negative correlation between CNFU and
ATSCI ðr ¼ 20:23Þ supports H1 and is similar to that reported in Tian and Bearden
(2002). Apparently, consumers who are more likely than their peers to seek uniqueness
through purchasing are less likely to attend to social cues.
Linear regression tested the remaining hypotheses (see Table II). The approach used
was to test two sequential models. In the first model, the dependent variable, opinion
Discussion
What are fashion leaders and opinion seekers in fashion like? Our study sought to
contribute to their descriptions by examining the psychology of clothing opinion
leaders and seekers. In the case of clothing OL and OS, it appears that, in addition to
being younger than non-leaders and non-seekers, and in the case of opinion leadership,
more likely to be female, both opinion leaders and opinion seekers are more attentive to
social cues than are non-leaders and non-seekers. While fashion opinion leaders are
also more likely to need to express their need for uniqueness than non-leaders, fashion
JFMM opinion seekers are less likely to need to express their uniqueness than non-seekers.
10,1 Thus, we are gaining more insight into the psychology of both types of fashion buyers.
Bristor (1990) presents a summary of some of the factors (individual, product, or
situational) that motivate opinion leadership. Individual factors include such variables
as involvement with the product category, anxiety reduction, and identification with
group standards. Motives for opinion seeking usually include risk reduction and
36 timesaving. From the theoretical perspective, our study adds to the profile of fashion
leaders and seekers. At least two other psychological factors also play a role in these
behaviours. Broad descriptions of these two types of consumer behaviours predicted
the relationships, so that the results are consistent with existing theories of OL/OS and
contribute insight into the motivational forces of these social behaviours. In the domain
of clothing, our results suggest that leaders and seekers act complementarily: fashion
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leaders innovate in order to feel unique and seekers are guided by leader orientations
and advice because they are very attentive to social cues. CNFU and ATSCI could
represent particularly relevant psychological traits to explain the dynamics of
diffusion and renewal of fashion clothes in groups.
For managers in the clothing domain, knowing that their opinion leaders are likely
to express uniqueness and to pay attention to social cues may provide important
contributions to strategy development. In appealing to OL, encouraging them to spread
positive WOM, strategies that reinforce their social acuity in scoping out what others
think and stressing how they can enhance their uniqueness by endorsing a brand,
might increase the effectiveness of the strategy. When it comes to OS, messages
encouraging them to seek out OL to get advice about brands, it might be more effective
it the messages stress once again how effective the consumer is in picking up social
cues. However, for OS, the promotional messages should not emphasize that they will
become more unique by seeking clothing advice, but in fact, may fit in better with their
social context by doing so.
Our findings are limited in generalizability by the homogeneous convenience
sample. To accurately assess the size of these relationships in the population at large,
random samples such as those used by commercial market research companies are
needed. A second limitation comes from the use of a single product category in which
we assessed these relationships. Future studies should focus on replicating and
extending our findings in other product fields. Finally, we used self-reports to measure
and a cross-sectional survey. To determine if these relationships are causal,
experimental studies are required.
One particularly important avenue for future research would be to assess whether
the CNFU/ATSCI ! OL/OS relationship depends on the type of product being studied.
Clothing is high in social influence, and the social context is important because it is a
publicly consumed good with high symbolic value to consumers. Would these same
relationships obtain for privately consumed goods or necessities as well (Bearden and
Etzel, 1982)? Questions also arise regarding the overlap between fashion
innovativeness and opinion leadership. Are there two kinds of innovative
consumers, those who also act as opinion leaders and those who do not?
Baumgarten (1975) raised this issue but it has received little research attention
since. The findings of the present study suggest that these differences do exist and that
they might be due to the influence of personality constructs such as ATSCI and CNFU.
Obviously, consumers engage in OL and OS for different reasons. Sometimes they Fashion opinion
are excited by the product and want to talk about it. Sometimes they particularly like
or dislike a product and want to share their opinions. They may simply be seeking
information and saving time. However, for some product categories at least, they might
be motivated by deeper psychological influences related to their social needs. Our
study suggests that these needs do play a role and are worthy of both theoretical and
managerial attention. 37
Notes
1. This result is coherent with the established relationship between enduring involvement and
opinion leadership (Ritchins and Root-Shaffer, 1988; Venkatraman, 1990).
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2. Race was not included in the analyses because there were few non-white respondents, and we
had no theoretical reason to assume there would be racial differences in these relationships.
3. For opinion leadership, analysis of outliers showed that only one case had a standardized
residual larger than 3.0. This case was removed and the analysis repeated. Although the
results provided stronger support for the hypothesized modelðadj R 2 ¼ 0:275 F ¼ 19:83;
p , 0:001Þ and the standardized regression coefficients were higher for the focal variables
(CNFU b ¼ 0:329; ATSCI b ¼ 0:232Þ, there was no compelling reason to remove the case
from the main analysis shown in Table II. For opinion seeking, outlier analysis showed no
cases with standardized residuals larger than 3.0.
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Corresponding author
Ronald E. Goldsmith can be contacted at: rgoldsm@garnet.acns.fsu.edu
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