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Exploring adolescent girls' identification of beauty types through consumer collages
Mary C. Martin, Cara Okleshen Peters,
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Mary C. Martin, Cara Okleshen Peters, (2005) "Exploring adolescent girls' identification of beauty types
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Adolescent girls’
Exploring adolescent girls’ identification of
identification of beauty types beauty types
through consumer collages
391
Mary C. Martin
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Abstract
Purpose – The objective of this study is to explore adolescent girls’ knowledge about the types of
beauty valued in contemporary American popular and commercial culture.
Design/methodology/approach – Eighty girls ranging from seven to thirteen years old
participated in a card sorting and collage construction exercise using 47 advertisements that
featured models.
Findings – Differences were found among girls according to age. Preferred beauty types were more
complex with age. Furthermore, older girls made more product and brand associations.
Research limitations/implications – The findings indicate that the beauty match-up hypothesis
holds among young girls.
Practical implications – Advertisers may be overlooking the audience of young women by
neglecting to use models who represent their desired type(s) of beauty. They may even be alienating
young girls by using anti-ideals such as nudity and sexiness. Furthermore, advertisers must use
models who convey the appropriate personality traits to create persuasive ads.
Originality/value – This study is important because it expands upon previous work that has
assessed how and why young girls are affected by highly attractive models in ads. However, instead of
conceptualizing physical attractiveness as a simple bipolar continuum from “attractive or pretty” to
“unattractive or ugly”, this work considers the complex, multidimensional properties of beauty.
Keywords Adolescents, Girls, Advertising, Self esteem
Paper type Research paper
adulthood) women become more self assured; yet few studies to date have examined
these age related effects.
A second group of studies has begun to address the question of why females and
young girls are affected by models in ads. Some of this research incorporates the role of
motives for comparison to help answer this question (Wood, 1989; Wood and Taylor,
1991). Specifically, several studies assess the motives of girls when they compare
themselves to models in ads and how these motives may lead to differential effects on
their self-perceptions of physical attractiveness and self-esteem (Martin and Kennedy,
1994; Martin and Gentry, 1997). Martin and Gentry (1997) found that motives do play
an important role in this context; differential effects for changes in self-perceptions of
physical attractiveness, self-perceptions of body image, and self-esteem occurred
depending on which motive was operating at the time of comparison. Consistent with
predictions of social comparison theory, female pre-adolescents’ and adolescents’
self-perceptions and self-esteem were detrimentally affected, particularly when
self-evaluation as a motive occurred (versus self-improvement or self-enhancement).
In her synthesis of the psychology literature, Tiggemann (2002) concludes that
internalization of the thin ideal and the motivation to invest in one’s appearance
combine with social comparison processes to impact body dissatisfaction in females as
young as eight. As females begin to associate their self-worth with self-perceived
attractiveness, appearance becomes a core component of their identity. Females who
find appearance important to the self naturally attend to appearance-related aspects of
media and advertising. This is especially true for young girls who are undergoing
puberty and developing their identity.
A third group of studies has emerged that takes more of a sociological approach to
understanding the impact of the media and advertising on the self-concept. These
studies examine how beauty ideals are culturally encoded and internalized by
consumers. This is a view of beauty as a time and context dependent social
construction. In other words, consumers learn what is culturally attractive through
personal experiences, group experiences, and the mass media (Osborn, 1996). As
argued by Duke (2002), females view advertising as a text menu from which they select
meanings relevant to the social and cultural context. This is especially profound
considering studies show that fashion magazines and their web sites reinforce
unrealistic images of beauty (Labre and Walsh-Childers, 2003) and girls as young as
five and six report reading such magazines and identifying with well-known models
and celebrities (Gilbert, 1998; Moore and MacKinnon, 2001).
This study continues this exploration by examining how young girls learn the
cultural categories of beauty that are prevalent in contemporary American society.
Rather than view beauty as a simple bipolar continuum from “attractive or pretty” to
“unattractive or ugly” as done in previous research, this study expands the scope of
current research by conceptualizing physical attractiveness as multidimensional. If we
JFMM are to understand advertising’s effects on women, a developmental perspective that
9,4 addresses types of beauty (versus merely the level of beauty) is necessary.
Beauty as multidimensional
The premise of the proposed study is that most people strive to attain a particular ideal
of beauty currently prevalent in their culture, chosen from a pantheon of stylistic
394 possibilities. A beauty ideal is an overall “look” incorporating both physical features
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(e.g. “pouty” lips vs thin lips, large breasts vs small) and a variety of products, services,
and activities (e.g. clothing, cosmetics, hairstyling, tanning salons, leisure activities).
This overall look or beauty ideal, therefore, is complex and multidimensional.
The notion that beauty is a multidimensional construct rather than a simple bipolar
continuum (i.e. attractive-unattractive) is intuitive. Surprisingly, though, this
assumption is not consistent with most existing conceptualizations of attractiveness
in either psychological or marketing research. Abundant research evidence attests to
the marketing consequences of employing “attractive” rather than “unattractive”
spokespersons and models. However, by typically conceptualizing and measuring
beauty on a single continuum from “attractive” to “unattractive”, this research has
ignored the potential effects that diverse ideals of beauty, prevalent in a culture at a
particular moment in time, have on consumers.
Acknowledging this oversight, research has examined the role of different ideals or
types of beauty in influencing consumers’ responses to models in ads. This research
has shown that editors of major women’s fashion magazines and adult females and
males distinguish multiple types of physical attractiveness (Ashmore et al., 1996;
Solomon et al., 1992). Solomon et al. (1992, p. 23) propose the beauty match-up
hypothesis: “perceivers distinguish multiple types of good looks, and that in
advertising, certain beauty ideals are more appropriately paired with specific products
than with others”. For example, a model perceived as “cute” wears casual attire, has a
youthful appearance, is shorter, and wears a smaller dress size than do other models,
and is most commonly associated with Seventeen magazine. In contrast, a “sensual”
model is sexually attractive in a classy, understated way. Magazines targeted at older
readers are more commonly associated with other types of beauty, such as “sensual”,
“sex kitten”, and “trendy”. Further, this research has shown that these different types
of beauty influence consumers’ responses to models in advertising. For example, White
Linen perfume was found to match positively with the use of a “girl-next-door” model,
but match negatively with the use of a “trendy” model. These beauty types are
distinguished from each other by physical and other features (e.g. clothing, pose), as
well as inferences about personal qualities (e.g. traits, lifestyles).
These types of beauty have been identified by editors at major women’s magazines
(Solomon et al., 1992) and female and male college students (Ashmore et al., 1996).
Solomon et al. (1992) also identified particular products and magazines that “match-up”
with types of beauty. Englis et al. (1994) extended this research to assess the overall
prevalence of these different beauty types in fashion magazine advertising and music
videos. The “match-ups” found in this research are shown in Table I.
This perspective of beauty ideals is also reflected in qualitative interviews with
young girls and strongly suggests that they are able to distinguish between types of
beauty as well (Gentry et al., 1996). For example, in that study, a fifth grader said,
“She’s sexy and that’s gross” after looking at a model in an ad.
Adolescent girls’
Study Beauty type(s) Magazine(s)
identification of
Solomon et al. (1992)a Sex kitten Cosmo (“good” match-up) beauty types
Sensual Vogue (“moderate” match-ups)
Exotic
Classic beauty/feminine
Classic beauty/feminine Glamour (“moderate” match-up) 395
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The cultural relativity of beauty ideals, as well as their fluidity over time, suggests that
answers to the question “what is beautiful?” are culturally constituted as a result of
common socialization experiences. If so, these ideals are at least to some degree taught
via advertising (Duke, 2002; Englis et al., 1994; Osborn, 1996). Thus, crucial questions
are: How do these ideals or types come to be represented or encoded in advertising?
How and when do girls learn what the ideals or types are and where they fit into their
culture’s scheme of “what is beautiful?”
The objective of this study is to explore the knowledge of these culturally defined
types of beauty among adolescent girls. Specifically, through collage construction,
young girls’ knowledge of types of beauty was analyzed to understand better to what
extent and how they think in terms of beauty types or categories. Collages have been
used in consumer research to elicit meanings of certain types of consumption-oriented
experiences, such as nostalgia (Havlena and Holak, 1996) and to design advertising
(Kaufman, 1997).
Methodology
Participants
Girls ranging in age from seven to thirteen were recruited to participate through local
and regional organizations. Girls from three Girl Scout troops, a church youth group,
and girls on the Run, a running and character-building program for young girls,
participated in the study. In return, a monetary donation was made to each
organization. A total of 80 girls participated, of which one was African-American, one
was Hispanic, and one was Asian.
Stimuli
Photos of female professional fashion models, products, and brands were
systematically sampled and extracted from one issue each of recent popular
magazines that target female audiences, including Seventeen, Sassy, YM, Self, Cosmo,
Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar, and Vanity Fair. These publications were chosen because
they represent the top two to three in terms of readership for three categories:
18-24-year-olds (Seventeen, Sassy, YM), 25-34-year-olds (Self, Cosmo, Glamour),
JFMM and 35-44-year-olds (Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair). Of the total ads extracted from
9,4 these magazines, 30 were randomly selected (ten from each category). From these 30
ads, the partial- or full-body photos of models were removed from the original ads in a
manner that eliminated information about the sources.
In addition to these 30 photos, 17 photographs that were used to “define” the
categories of beauty found in Ashmore et al. (1996) (sexy/not sexy, trendy/not sexy or
396 trendy, and cute/not cute) were used. The intent of including both sets of stimuli was to
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include models from ads (in addition to model book photos as used in Ashmore et al.,
1996) and to update the set to include more recent images of beauty, while not
eliminating the possibility that the types of beauty found in past research were still
intact. These 47 photos were then printed on small cards (approximately
3 inch £ 5 inch) and laminated.
7-8 (n ¼ 16)
Modelsa 3, 8, 24 23
Products & brands Very few/inconsistencies; Very few/inconsistencies;
lack of understanding lack of understanding
Category descriptionb “being yourself” “like a boy”
being “regular”, “normal”, With “not very many clothes”
“like a Mom”
“pretty”
9-10 (n ¼ 33)
Modelsa 3, 8, 11, 16 40
Products & brands Selected few (Mickey Unlimited, Selected few (Street Code,
Pantene, Liz Claiborne, Esprit) L.A. Looks)
Category descriptionb Cute (almost all) Sexy
Natural (several) Exotic
Trendy
Girl-next-door
11-13 (n ¼ 31)
Modelsa 3, 4, 12, 17, 24 29, 32, 40
Products & brands Many, varied Many, varied
Category descriptionb Trendy Sexy
Cute Exotic
Notes: aThe photos of models were numbered for the sorting task; those numbers are reported in the Table II.
Table. These photos are shown in Figures 1-3; bCategory descriptions are derived from descriptive Prevalent themes in
words given to the participants and used in the collages, as well as the girls’ own words collages
JFMM and/or color as the only basis for differentiation. One categorized beauty types by hair
9,4 length and believed she will look like those with “long hair”, while she desired to look
like those with their “hair up” and not like those with “short hair”. The older girls used
the same general dimensions for differentiation, but were more sophisticated in this
respect. They, for example, also considered the type of clothing important to the
categorization of beauty types: “casual” clothing was distinguished from “fancy”
398 clothing in many cases. In addition, the notion of “sexiness”, as conveyed in the models’
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399
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Figure 1.
“What I will look like/want
to look like” versus “What
I do not want to look like”
for 7-8-year-olds
This “pretty” versus “ugly” distinction of beauty types was most prevalent in the older
girls. In fact, their descriptions of the models perceived as pretty and ugly were quite
colorful in some cases. Pretty models are perceived as “outgoing”, “popular”, “fun to
hang with”, “happy”, “fun”, “casual”, “special”, and “pleasant”, for example. Ugly
models, on the other hand, are perceived as “nasty”, “scary”, “wild”, “exotic”, and “not
happy” and engaging in drinking, smoking, drugs, and steroids.
The finding that the girls ascribe these positive personality traits to the models may
derive from the fact that they are like to use models in ads as an aspirational reference
group (Richins, 1991). For example, Martin and Kennedy (1994) found that female
pre-adolescents and adolescents have aspirations to be models. In addition, girls,
versus boys, are much more likely to be affected given the pervasiveness of
attractiveness-related images and messages targeted to them and the more culturally
JFMM
9,4
400
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Figure 2.
“What I will look like/want
to look like” versus “what I
do not want to look like”
for 9-10-year-olds
salient ideal of attractiveness for females. In fact, Martin et al. (1999) found girls rated
models as warmer, happier, friendlier, more outgoing, and smarter than boys did.
Examples of an eleven-year-olds collages that demonstrate the use of personality traits
and “pretty” versus “ugly” is shown in Figure 5.
401
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Figure 3.
“What I will look like/want
to look like” versus “what I
do not want to look like”
for 11-13-year-olds
the eleven to thirteen year olds used many brands and products in their collages. Most
of these brands and products were cosmetic (e.g. make-up, fingernail polish), likely due
to the use of fashion magazines. The important conclusion is that girls’ brand and
product associations are not yet formed at younger ages, but as they move in to the
teen years, they form quickly. An example of a 12 year old girl’s collage that
demonstrates the use of brands and products is shown in Figure 4.
Discussion
Solomon et al. (1992, p. 24), in their discussion of the beauty match-up hypothesis, point
out that “a persuasive ad presents a good gestalt: a model whose type of beauty and
associated image matches the product with which it is paired will provide a coherent
message, which, if consistent with the consumers’ desired self-image, may enhance
acceptance of the advertisement”. Combined with findings of Englis et al. (1994) who
JFMM
9,4
402
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Figure 4.
The extensive use of
brands and products and
the social emphasis by
older girls
Figure 5.
The use of personality
traits and “pretty” versus
“ugly” distinction
found that certain types of beauty (girl-next-door, sex kitten, and cute) are infrequently
represented in fashion magazines, this study suggests that advertisers may be
overlooking the audience young women by neglecting to use models who represent
their desired type(s) of beauty. Not only may advertisers may be neglecting this
audience, they may be alienating young girls by using “anti-ideals” (Englis et al., 1994,
p. 60) such as nudity and sexiness.
Persuasiveness of an ad also derives from the girls’ attribution of positive
personality traits to the models. Research concerning consumers’ positive inferences
about physically-attractive endorsers has shown that this attribution of
“socially-desirable traits” enhances models’ persuasiveness (Brumbaugh, 1993;
Maddux and Rogers, 1980). This notion is consistent with the “what is beautiful is
good” stereotype (Dion, 1986; Dion et al., 1972) “whereby physically attractive
individuals are believed to possess a wide variety of positive personal qualities”
(Eagly et al., 1991, p. 109), otherwise known as a “halo effect”. These socially
desirable traits may include social competence, adjustment, potency, intellectual
competence, integrity, and a concern for others (Eagly et al., 1991). Brumbaugh
(1993) found that personality inferences concerning a physically attractive endorser
positively affected consumers’ attitudes toward the product. For example, models
who were perceived as capable and poised received positive evaluations of their Adolescent girls’
clothing from consumers. Stephens et al. (1994) proposed that the assignment of identification of
socially-desirable traits to endorsers in ads may be more common in women who
are dissatisfied with their bodies than women who are satisfied with their bodies. beauty types
For example, Mintz and Betz (1988) found that those female college students more
likely to be dissatisfied with their bodies tended to agree with “what is beautiful is
good” stereotypes (e.g. “attractive people are more poised and outgoing”). Thus, 403
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advertisers must use models who convey the appropriate personality traits to
ensure a good “match-up” to create persuasive ads.
In addition, persuasiveness of an ad would be achieved with repetitive use of an
appropriate beauty “match-up” between the model and product. Repetition would be
necessary for internalization of this “match-up” to occur. The inability to draw
conclusions about the appropriate “match-ups” between the beauty types and
magazines in this study demonstrates that young girls’ “match-ups” are likely not yet
formed, probably due to lack of exposure to the magazines. Advertisers need to realize,
however, that these “match-ups” will form as girls get older and are exposed to
magazines, but only through advertising repetition, in appropriate magazines, and at
the appropriate time.
While persuasiveness is important for advertisers, they should balance the
persuasiveness of ads against the potential to harm this audience. Prior research has
shown that advertising using highly attractive models has the potential to harm young
women’s self-concepts. Perhaps combining the ideal beauty type with a high level of
attractiveness will encourage girls to use particular motives for comparison, such as
self-improvement, that have the potential to do good rather than harm. As Martin and
Gentry (1997) suggest, when self-improvement is the primary motive for comparison,
self-perceptions of physical attractiveness may temporarily rise in anticipation of an
improvement because the comparisons with advertising models are inspiring rather
than threatening. When a girl is inspired to improve her physical attractiveness,
feelings of self-esteem are likely to be enhanced as well in anticipation of an
improvement. Therefore, future research should consider ideal beauty types when
assessing the effects of various motives for comparison.
This study’s results also suggest that today’s youth are more mature, media-savvy,
and culturally experienced than past generations. The girls in the study who ranged in
age from nine to thirteen had clearly defined conceptions of the models in the
advertisements. The ability of these young females to read the cultural nuances of
advertising (i.e. exotic or sexy) was quite developed. In fact, it is possible that even by
age seven (the youngest respondents in this study) females are already relying on the
advertising culture in making judgments. This possible sample selection bias should
be addressed by future research that examines at what age young girls begin to be
impacted by advertising.
In general, this study has begun to help us understand better to what extent and
how young girls think in terms of beauty types or categories. However, researchers
have more work to do before they answer adequately the effects of advertising on
women and young girls. The continuation of a developmental perspective that
addresses types of beauty as well as level of beauty, in addition to brand and product
associations, is encouraged. These “beauty match-ups” will then help advertisers
confidently target young girls, at a specific time in their lives, appropriately.
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