Sapogel Q

Palm Free Balm Textures

Sapogel Q
Balm textures using Saponins

INCI: Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood

Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract

Sapogel is a liquid blend that allows the formulator

to make stable, translucent, rich balms with the
texture of lanolin or petroleum jelly.
What are Saponins?

The term ‘Saponin’ derives from the Latin Sapo – meaning Soap
Saponins are found naturally in many different plants such as beans, chick peas,
quinoa, oats and soy and are thought to have many health benefits in terms of
reduction of cholesterol and anti-oxidant properties.

Typical structure of a saponin. The hydrophilic

part with many hydroxyl groups can clearly be
identified, and a hydrophobic part.
There are around 12 types of saponin that
have been identified, but there are thought to Hydrophobic part
be many that have not been isolated or
characterised. The complex mixture gives
saponins their unique stabilising ability. Hydrophilic part
 Quillaja Saponins
A sustainable story…..

Quillaja trees grow in a managed plantation in Chile consisting of trees that are
systematically pruned to achieve large amounts of biomass – the whole plant is used
in the extraction of Quillaja Saponins. The Quillaja is classed as ‘wild harvested’.
The extraction factory is environmentally optimised and has won awards for this.

New trees are constantly planted as they take 15 years to achieve maturity. Prunings are taken from the mature trees.
Quillaja Saponins
Extraction Process:
Prunings from the mature trees on the plantation

Biomass soaked in hot water to extract saponins

Filtration, pasteurisation Spray drying –

Biomass burnt finished product
to heat water

Drying of Biomass
Soapwort Saponins
Soapwort is a common hardy flowering plant that grows in many regions of the
world and has been widely used by mankind for millennia for personal washing and
washing clothing. It was grown by Romans and planted around Roman baths. The
saponins in Soapwort are very gentle and suitable for sensitive skin and babies. The
soapwort used in Sapogel Q is wild harvested and both roots and leaves are
extracted for the saponins.
Features of Sapogel Q Balms

• All natural formulations possible

• Safe, mild, food grade materials
used
• No palm derived components
• Variable textures possible from
honey to thick balms
• Wide range of oils can be gelled
but particularly suitable for
vegetable oils
• Cold Process manufacturing
Typical Simple Formula
Phase A
Sapogel® 20%*

Phase B
Oil (Veg Oil, ester, silicone) 80%

Phase C
Other additives (perfume, colour etc.) qs

*Average Amount. 15% = firm balm, 25% = Honey texture.

*Texture and Viscosity are highly dependent on the oil used.
SAPOGEL® : MAKING A GEL
Method

1 2
Weigh out Sapogel® into a suitable
beaker and oil into a separate
beaker. If solids are used in the oil
phase these need to be melted.
3
Transfer onto an overhead
mixer fitted with propeller
blade and set to high
speed (1000 rpm)
Start stirring and add oil
very slowly dropwise for
first 10% of the oil.

4 5 6
Continue adding oil in portions, Mixture will thicken rapidly A firm gel or balm is
allowing gel to reform between
formed.
additions.
Viscosities and Texture

Different viscosities and texture can be achieved depending on level of Sapogel used:

Oil Used Viscosity (Spindle 94, sp 10)

20% 25%
Sunflower 121400 33200
Olive 73000 38200
Rapeseed 83600 22400
Fractionated Coconut 164400 113200
Squalane 185200 127400

All samples above were stable at 50°C for 3 months

Superior Stability of Sapogel Q Gels

Heat Stability
Gels stored at 50°C for 3 months: Full stability for duration of test

Freeze / Thaw
Gels were placed in a domestic freezer (ca. – 10°C) for 24 hours. They
were removed for 24 hours and allowed to thaw to 20°C.
Above repeated 3 times: Full stability for duration of test

Acids / Bases
Citric Acid solution and Sodium Hydroxide solution were added to gels and
no adverse effects were seen.
 Addition of other ingredients
Glycerine
Thins down the gel (useful for 15% gels)
Gives a flowable, honey like texture

Water
Up to 4% can be used. Thins down the
gel and gives it an opaque appearance.
Can make concentrated serums etc.

Powders / Exfoliators
Easily dispersed in the gel. Acidic /
alkaline exfoliators can also be used.
SEM Images of Various Oil Gels

Sapogel Q: Sucragel: HIPEgel Oleo:

Layered structure, Small oil Larger oil droplets,
no individual oil droplets, greater size
droplets visible uniform size distribution
Sapogel Lamellar Structure Theory
Comparison of Sapogel, Sucragel & HIPEgel Oleo
12 Hour Cream
Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w
A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria 20
Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract
B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 5.0
B Fractionated Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 50
Coconut Oil
B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 24.5

C Mango Lip Code Fragrance 0.3

692-0 Fragrance
C FD & C Red 2 CI 16185 0.05

C FD & C Yellow 6 CI 15985 0.15

Method:
Weigh out Sapogel Q (Phase A) into one beaker. Weigh out Phase B and heat to approx. 70°C until
all components have melted. Add Phase B very slowly to Phase A until a thick gel is formed. Cool to
room temperature and add Phase C.
Rose Lip Mask
A long lasting balm that can be applied to lips at night and leave them moisturised in
the morning.

Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w

A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria 20
Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract
B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 79.25
C Rose Essential Oil Pelargonium Graveolens Oil 0.5

C FD & C Red 5 CI 14700 0.25

Weigh Sapogel into a suitable beaker and Phase B in another beaker. Slowly
incorporate Phase B into Sapogel. Then add Phase C.
Vanilla Body Balm
Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w
A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria 20
Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract
B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 40.0
B Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter 2.5
B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 14.9

B Fractionated Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 22.5

Coconut Oil
C Vanilla Spice Fragrance 0.1
Fragrance

Method:
Weigh out Sapogel Q (Phase A) into one beaker. Weigh out Phase B and heat to approx. 70°C until
all components have melted. Add Phase B very slowly to Phase A until a thick gel is formed. Cool to
room temperature and add Phase C.
Black Lava Sand Scrub
A stimulating scrub with black lava particles and essential oils.
Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w
A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & 25.0
Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract
B Fractionated Coconut Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 70.5
Oil
C Tea Tree Essential Oil Melaleuca Alternafolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil 0.5

C Juniper Essential Oil Juniperus Communis Fruit Oil 0.5

C Volcanic Sand Volcanic Sand 3.0

Exfoliator 300
C FD & C Blue 1 & Yellow CI 42090, CI 15985 0.5
6

Weigh Sapogel into a suitable beaker and Phase B in another beaker. Slowly
incorporate Phase B into Sapogel. Then add Phase C.
Applications

• Lipbalms
• Balm Cleansers
• Body Balms
• Scrubs, including salt/sugar
• Face masks
• Concentrated skin serums / creams
• Hair / Beard Balms
Thankyou!