T he fashion industry

ADING
has started to
rewrite the rules
when it comes to the
one-size-fits-all formula,
by embracing women of
all body types – and with
the right tools to hand,
plus a little technical
know-how, you can learn
how to tailor a pattern
to flatter your figure, too.
For most of us, there’s
usually a few occasions
where we know a style
just won’t sit quite right

GR
and needs to be taken up
or down a size or two
– but not to worry!

ro
We’ve teamed up with

ap
our stitching experts to
collate an easy and
ike
O
informative guide to
grading to help you resize
sl

T a pattern with ease.

rn

E
te

t
ID
a
101 GU t o r e s iz e p

h o w
Our experts s y o u
how
Words by Sophie Demetriades

WHAT IS GRADING?
For many of us, the term ‘pattern grading’ conjures up an image
of fancy tools and complex measurements, but it doesn’t have to
be as strenuous as it sounds. On the contrary, once you’ve mastered
the basic techniques there will be no stopping you from taking your
sewing to the next level!
If you’re struggling to find a pattern which covers your size, then
grading it yourself is a great option. There are three main methods
for resizing, including cut and spread, pattern shifting and computer
grading. With the first technique, you have to cut and spread the
pieces for grading up, or overlap them to grade down. To use the
pattern shifting method, you must increase the dimensions of the
SEW MAGAZINE 41

pieces by moving them a measured distance up, down, left and right,
then redraw the outline. The final method is the quickest, but it’s only
usually done by manufacturers that can afford the software required.
Ready to start resizing your clothes? Then turn the page for expert
stitchers Sarah Oecken, Amanda Walker and Lorna Knight’s quick
and easy steps to pattern perfection.
 At this point, you may find that you
straddle dress sizes; for example, your
waist might be a 12 and your hips a 14.
“The actual finished
measurements of the garment,
including the amount of ease, is
usually written on the pattern
pieces, so use this to check the
final fit. If you still find that
you need to alter it, then it’s
time to grade the pattern
pieces. So, using a tape
measure, calculate the final
measurement you require
so that the garment sits
comfortably.
“Now you need to take this
additional amount and add on
a 1.5cm seam allowance. This
amount needs to be divided
equally between the pattern
piece side seams. So, if you have
a skirt with a front and back
piece, you need to divide the extra
amount, plus the seam allowances,
between the four side seams. For
example, if you have an additional
4cm, you have to add this to a 6cm

SHAPE seam allowance and divide this evenly

between the four seams which equates
to 2.5cm each.”

“The first step to

SMART
B efore you do anything, remember that taking
accurate body measurements is key, as our expert
designer Sarah Oecken explains: “I think most
dressmakers agree that one of the single hardest things
is getting the fit right. Most commercial patterns are
not equivalent to the sizes we get off the peg, so the first
step to grading is to take accurate body measurements.
Start with your hips, bust and waist, then compare these
measurements to those on the back of the envelope.
pattern grading is to
take accurate body
measurements”
“Using pattern paper, attach this to the pattern that is
cut to the closest size you require and carefully mark out
the new cutting line. If your measurements span across
different sizes for the waist and bust for instance, then
you’ll need to grade gradually from each area so that
you blend the sizes. Remember to make sure you work
incrementally to the existing grade lines and don’t alter
the shape of the garment.”

measure up
A mannequin is always a great
1 tool to have to hand when
grading – and these ones from
adjustoform.com are just
2
the ticket!
1 This eight-part adjustable mannequin is lightly
padded and has a gorgeous polka dot design.
£119.99, Polka Dot Adjustable
Dressmakers Dummy
2 Great for pinning patterns and garments, this
mannequin features a white polished wood stand and

2
comes in a range of sizes. £179.99, Sugar Ditsy Blue
3
SEW MAGAZINE 42

Adjustable Dressmakers Dummy

3 With its split waist to enable lengthening and off-set
column to allow trousers to hang straight, this form is
bound to have you stitching up a storm!
£145, Sew Deluxe Leg Form
 GRADING
KNOW-HOW
Stitching guru Lorna Knight, founder of
lornaknight.com, is here to give
you her speedy resizing method.
YOU WILL NEED:
Tape measure Pencil Ruler, 15cm French curve ruler

1 DRAW THE LINE

Once you’ve accurately
measured your body, select the
pattern pieces you need for the
garment and roughly cut them

Cottesloe swimsuit, £13.22, megannielsen.com

out, leaving as much extra paper
outside of the largest size as
possible. Take a 15cm ruler and
place it across the junction of all
parts of the pattern, including
shoulder seams, darts and
sleeves. Draw guidelines through
these points.

2 MADE TO
MEASURE
Start with the side seam and
work out the distance in between
each of the sizes. If the difference no time to grade? Check out
between them is the same, add
this length along each grading line Megan Nielsen’s patterns which
and join these points to create come in sizes 0 to 30
the next size up or down. If the
difference in between each size
shows a progressive change,
then calculate the measurement
required and draw it in.
ON THE
3 FOLLOW
THE CURVE
On curved areas, such as
armholes and necklines,
WEB
measure and mark around If you want to try an
alternative method, or
to the size you need, then draw
in the new size using a French
simply find it easier to
curve ruler. Make sure you record learn from a video,
any notches too and move them then search for ‘pattern
across to the next size. This tool grading’ on the
is invaluable for pattern grading following websites
as it will allow you to maintain to check out these
the original shape of the garment, top tutorials...
while proportionally increasing or
decreasing the size of a pattern.
victorypatterns.com
4 SIZE UP
To draw the new
size, join up the grading
lines around the edge
isntthatsew.org
cashmerette.com
tillyandthebuttons.com
of all of the pattern
pieces and make sure blog.megannielsen.com
you include any facings curvysewingcollective.com
SEW MAGAZINE 43

and darts, then you can madetosew.com

sew the garment as
normal. Voila – it’s as
simple as that!

turn the page

Eucalypt dress Curve, £13.22, megannielsen.com for top tools
 Lorna’s
Wise
Words
1 looking sharp
When pattern grading, it’s always
a good idea to use a newly
sharpened 2H pencil to mark all of the
points, as the fine line ensures a more
accurate measurement. A thicker line,
made with a soft lead pencil, is more
difficult to work with because then
you won’t know whether to measure
from the centre or the edge.
amanda walker’s
2 rule of thumb
A short 15cm ruler is an easier
tool to use than a longer one,
especially when drawing guidelines
through pattern points and corners.
TIPS & TRICKS
This will enable you to grade quickly “I usually draft the original pattern onto thin card,
and efficiently around each piece. as this enables you to create exact curves and
markings from the master pattern.

3 À La Française “If you’re new to grading, then an easy project

A French curve ruler is a great
tool that allows you to draw
perfectly smooth curves when pattern
drafting and grading. Another useful
feature with this ruler is that it comes
with a grid of straight and curved
lines, which are really handy when
it comes to lining up a pattern piece.
All you need to do is place the curve,
printed on the ruler, over the curve
on the pattern, then use the edge to
draw a line around it at the required
distance from the original size.
to start with is a pencil skirt, as all you need to do
is add the extra measurement through the centre
front and back. Just remember that the front
pattern piece is a quarter of the complete
skirt,and the additional measurement for the
back part will need to be divided by four.
“Before cutting the fabric, check that the
pattern fits together perfectly. Plus, I’d also
recommend making a calico sample first,
as garments can become distorted when
you increase or decrease them by a large
amount. If you do this, then you’ll be
able to tweak any parts you’re not
happy with without wasting any fabric.”

1 top tools
Who said dressmaking tools can’t
be pretty as well as practical? You’ll
definitely want these essentials to hand
with your next grading project!
5
To purchase the tools, visit
prym.com for stockists.

1 £5.90, Plastic-headed Pins Prym Love

4
Dawn Curve, £11.02, megannielsen.com

2 £21.40, Dressmaking Scissors Prym Love

3 £13.90, Tailor’s Chalk Slabs in Blue, Yellow and White
4 £6, Spring Tape Measure Prym Love
5 £19.95, Curved Ruler
SEW MAGAZINE 44

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