S2

FIBRAS TEXTILES
TÈXTILS PER AL DISSENY DE PRODUCTES
CLASIFICACIÓN

Fibras Fibras
químicas naturales
M
N
A
A
N
T
U
-
R
A
M
L
A
D
E

Image source: by Ayana Seals, 2012, at https://www.behance.net/gallery/2253366/Textile-Fibers-Infographic-Map

FIBRAS NATURALES

Image source: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Classification-of-natural-fibers-1-2_fig9_258393869

FIBRAS NATURALES
CELLULOSIC FIBERS /
LIGNOCELLULOSIC FIBERS
• cellulose + hemicellulose +
lignin, with minor amount of
pectin
• cell wall  consists of a primary
wall and a secondary wall

Image source:
http://www.definetextile.com/2013/04/physic
al-structure-of-cotton-fiber.html
FIBRAS NATURALES
FIBRAS NATURALES

Image source: Kestur G. Satyanarayana, Gregorio G.C. Arizaga, Fernando Wypych,

2009. Progress in Polymer Science 34 (2009) 982–1021
FIBRAS NATURALES

Image source: Kestur G. Satyanarayana, Gregorio G.C. Arizaga, Fernando Wypych,

2009. Progress in Polymer Science 34 (2009) 982–1021
FIBRAS NATURALES
ALGODÓN

Image source: https://www.swicofil.com/commerce/products/cotton/85/introduction

• Fibras de algodón largas (long staple) > 28mm

• Fibras de algodón cortas (short staple) < 18mm
• Categoría intermedia 18-28 mm = 60% de la producción mundial
FIBRAS NATURALES
ALGODÓN

• cuticle layer  wax and pectin

• primary wall  cellulose crystalline fibrils
• secondary wall (3 layers)  each layer
consists of closely packed parallel fibrils with
spiral winding of 25-35° and represent the
majority of cellulose within the fiber

Image source: http://www.asiantextilestudies.com/cotton.html

 FIBRAS NATURALES
ALGODÓN

Cotton

E 5.5-12.6 GPa

σmax 290-600 MPa

ρ 1.54 g/cm3

Good moisture absorption

(~7%)

Imarge sorce: By Featheredtar - Own work, CC BY 3.0,

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10133467
FIBRAS NATURALES
ALGODÓN

• During scouring (descrudado)—treatment of the fiber with NaOH—

natural waxes and fats in the fiber are released  removal of so
impurities.
• After scouring, a bleaching solution (blanqueo)—consisting of a
stabilized oxidizing agent—interacts with the fiber to remove the natural
color.
• Mercerization is another process of improving sorption properties and
better luster of cotton by immersion into 18-25% solution of NaOH
often under tension.
FIBRAS NATURALES
ALGODÓN

Normal cotton fibres, left, and mercerized fibres, right

Image source: http://www.asiantextilestudies.com/cotton.html
FIBRAS NATURALES
LINO

Image source: Drawing by Franz Image source: by Neve Sottile “Campo di lino” at
Eugen Köhler, published 1883. http://www.nevefina.com/2010/07/mai-visto-un-campo-di-lino.html
FIBRAS NATURALES
LINO

Image source: Charlet K, Baley C, Morvan C, Jernot JP, Gomina M,

Bréard J. Compos Part A Appl Sci Manuf 2007;38:1912–21.
FIBRAS NATURALES
LINO

Image source: Amiri, A.; Ulven, C.A.; Huo, S. Polymers 2015, 7, 1965-
1978.
 FIBRAS NATURALES
LINO

Flax Cellulose 60-81 wt.% 

E 27-80 GPa Hemicellulose 14-18.6 wt.%

σmax 340-1030 MPa Lignin 2-3 wt.%

ρ 1.46 g/cm3 Pectin 1.8-2.3 wt.%

High moisture absorption

(~12%) 1) Pith
2) Protoxylem
3) Xylem
4) Phloem
5) Bast tissue
6) Cortex
7) Epidermis
FIBRAS NATURALES
LINO

Image source: http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/1850%27s,_Flax_Fibers,_Dyed_With_Dandelion_Dye,_Ohio

FIBRAS NATURALES

Image source: Rudi Dungani, Myrtha Karina, Subyakto , A. Sulaeman, Dede Hermawan
and A. Hadiyane, 2016. Agricultural Waste Fibers Towards Sustainability and Advanced
Utilization: A Review. Asian Journal of Plant Sciences, 15: 42-55.
SEM micrographs of microfibrils from residual sisal (Agave sisalana) fibers: (a) network
of microfibrils covering the outer wall layer; (b) details showing the microfibrils network;
(c) fractured surface area exposing the microfibrils; and (d) details showing the
microfibrils

Image Source: Santos, Sergio & Tonoli, G.H.D. & Mejia, Julian & Fiorelli, Juliano
& Jr, Holmer. (2015). Materiales de Construcción. 65. 10.3989/mc.2015.05514.
FIBRAS NATURALES

Image source: Rudi Dungani, Myrtha Karina, Subyakto , A. Sulaeman, Dede Hermawan
and A. Hadiyane, 2016. Agricultural Waste Fibers Towards Sustainability and Advanced
Utilization: A Review. Asian Journal of Plant Sciences, 15: 42-55.
FIBRAS NATURALES

Image source: Rudi Dungani, Myrtha Karina, Subyakto , A. Sulaeman, Dede Hermawan
and A. Hadiyane, 2016. Agricultural Waste Fibers Towards Sustainability and Advanced
Utilization: A Review. Asian Journal of Plant Sciences, 15: 42-55.
FIBRAS NATURALES
L ANA

Image source: http://moutonsmorts.blogspot.com/p/razas-de-ovinos.html

FIBRAS NATURALES
L ANA

Images source:
http://www.infovets.com/books/s
mrm/A/A988.htm
FIBRAS NATURALES
L ANA

Image source: https://shepherdsdream.com/blog/wonders-of-wool/characteristics-of-wool/

FIBRAS NATURALES
L ANA

The classifications of wool are:

• Fine wool – wool fibre of <= 24,5 µ (fibre diameter)
• Medium wool – wool fibre of 24.6-32.5 µ (fibre
diameter)
• Coarse wool – wool fibre of >32.5 µ (fibre diameter)

• Renewable, high UV resistance, flame retardant

(self extinguishing), biodegradable, breathable, non
allergenic, flexible, elastic, resilient, good wrinkle
recovery, insulating
Image Source: https://csiropedia.csiro.au/wp-
content/uploads/2015/01/6229343.pdf
FIBRAS NATURALES
L ANA

Image source: By CSIRO, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=35488151

FIBRAS NATURALES
L ANA

• Wool fibres contain two main types

of cortical cell (ortho- and para-).
• Coarser types of wool fibers tend to
have less segmentation of the
cortical cells
• In the case of merino wool, these
are arranged bilaterally  bilateral
segmentation = natural crimp

Image Source: https://csiropedia.csiro.au/wp-

content/uploads/2015/01/6229343.pdf
FIBRAS NATURALES
L ANA

http://www.microlabgallery.com/hair.aspx
FIBRAS NATURALES
L ANA

Image source: https://www.iwto.org/wool

FIBRAS NATURALES
SEDA

Image source: https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116102026/23

FIBRAS NATURALES
SEDA

• Muy resistente (aunque pierde un 20% de su resistencia en

húmedo, pero de elasticidad moderada
• Excelente brillo debido a su sección triangular
• Excelente cayente
• Excelente aislamiento (mala conductora del calor)
• Buena absorción de humedad (11%), lo que facilita su tintura
• Puede debilitarse si se expone en exceso a los UVB
• Resistencia moderada al arrugado
• Empieza a degradarse a los 165 ºC, así que hay que plancharla en
húmedo
FIBRAS NATURALES
SEDA DE ARAÑA

Image source: Kunal Singha , Subhankar Maity , Mrinal Singha ,

"Spinning and Applications of Spider Silk", Frontiers in Science, Vol. 2
No. 5, 2012, pp. 92-100

Image source: https://arceovirtualclassroom.weebly.com/

FIBRAS NATURALES
SEDA DE ARAÑA

Imarge source: By Vincentsarego at English Wikipedia. -

Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons., CC BY-SA 3.0,
Image source: By Chen-Pan Liao - https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=40001987
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Structure_of_spider_silk_t
hread.svg, CC BY-SA 3.0,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=15590615

Adidas spins a web of biodegradable shoes made from synthetic spider silk
https://www.digitaltrends.com/outdoors/adidas-synthetic-spider-silk-shoes/
FIBRAS QUÍMICAS

Image source: By Md Sohanur Rahman Sobuj, at https://textilestudycenter.com/man-made-fibers-

classification-man-made-fibers/
FIBRAS QUÍMICAS
DE POLÍMERO SINTÉTICO

Image source: https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116102026/4

MORE AMORPHOUS MORE CRYSTALLINE

• more absorbent • less absorbent
• weaker • stronger
• less durable • more durable
• more easily degraded by chemicals • less easily degraded by chemicals
• more easily dyed • less easily dyed
• more pliable, softer handling • less pliable, stiffer handling
• plastic, more easily distorted • less plastic, resist being distorted
PRODUCCIÓN DE FIBRAS
QUÍMICAS
Fiber forming polymer/Raw materials solution

Spinning (conversion to fiber)

Drawing/Stretching (To increase strength and crystallinity of molecules)

Texturing (To achieve bulk and greater absorbency)

Heat setting (To improve dimensional stability)

Finished filament
PRODUCCIÓN DE FIBRAS
QUÍMICAS

• Melt spinning
• Wet spinning
• Dry spinning
...and also...
• Dry-jet wet spinning
PRODUCCIÓN DE FIBRAS
QUÍMICAS

Melt spinning

Image source: Stages in the melt spinning of polymeric

fibres. By Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., at
https://www.britannica.com/technology/melt-spinning-
materials-processing
PRODUCCIÓN DE FIBRAS
QUÍMICAS

Dry spinning

Image source: RIKIpedia by Rieter “dry spinning”, at

https://www.rieter.com/cz/rikipedia/articles/processing-of-
man-made-fibres/manufacture-of-man-made-
fibres/general-production-steps/spinning/dry-spinning/
PRODUCCIÓN DE FIBRAS
QUÍMICAS

Wet spinning

Image source: RIKIpedia by Rieter “wet spinning”, at

https://www.rieter.com/cz/rikipedia/articles/processing-of-
man-made-fibres/manufacture-of-man-made-
fibres/general-production-steps/spinning/wet-spinning/
PRODUCCIÓN DE FIBRAS
QUÍMICAS

Image source: https://textilestudycenter.com/melt-spinning-dry-spinning-and-wet-spinning-

method/
PRODUCCIÓN DE FIBRAS
QUÍMICAS

Dry-jet wet spinning

Image source: Dry-jet wet spinning. Image from RR Mather, Chemistry of Textile Fibres, 2011,
royal society of Chemistry, Chapter 6 High Performance Fibres.
PROPIEDADES DE LAS
FIBRAS
• Longitud – Brillo
• Finura  Diámetro – Resistencia
• Forma de la sección – Capacidad de absorción
– Rigidez
– Tacto del tejido final
– Capacidad de aislamiento
– Procesado (hilatura)
– Etc.
FINURA DE LAS FIBRAS
Influencia de la finura de las fibras
• Tacto tejido  + finas = tactos más suaves y sedosos, más cayente,
mayor tendencia al arrugado
• Rigidez a la torsión y flexión  + finas = menor rigidez a la torsión y
flexión
• Absorción líquidos  + finas + superficie específica a igual diámetro del
hilado, + absorción de líquidos y vapor de agua
• Cohesión interfibrilar  + finas = mayor fricción fibra/fibra = menor
torsión del hilado, + velocidad de hilatura
• Regularidad de los hilos  + finas = + fibras/sección hilado = +
regularidad hilado
• Reflexión de la luz  + finas = mayor cantidad de fibras/sección del
hilado = mayor nº de superficies individuales de reflexión de la luz

€  generalmente, + finura = mayor precio

SECCIÓN DE LAS FIBRAS
Influye en el brillo, volumen, cuerpo, textura, tacto y confort del tejido

Image source: http://tenoritaigaloloan23.blogspot.com/2013/05/spandex-metodos-de-

identificacion.html?m=0
SECCIÓN DE LAS FIBRAS

Image source: https://www.superiorthreads.com/education/fiber-shapes

Titanium dioxide  used in the spinning solution of man-made fibers as a

delustring agent
SECCIÓN DE LAS FIBRAS

Image source: https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116102026/2

SECCIÓN DE LAS FIBRAS
FIBRAS BI-COMPONENTE

Image source: http://textilearticle.blogsky.com/1390/06/24/post-33/

SECCIÓN DE LAS FIBRAS
FIBRAS BI-COMPONENTE

Fig. 1.

Citation
P. Petropoulos, H. Ebendorff-Heidepriem, V. Finazzi, R.C. Moore, K. Frampton, D.J. Richardson, T.M. Monro, "Highly nonlinear and
anomalously dispersive lead silicate glass holey fibers," Opt. Express 11, 3568-3573 (2003);
https://www.osapublishing.org/oe/abstract.cfm?uri=oe-11-26-3568

Image ©2003 Optical Society of America and may be used for noncommercial purposes only. Report a copyright concern regarding
this image.