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Keywords: Cheese plays a critical cultural, historical and tourist role in many countries. Cheese acts as a tool for identity
Cheese tourism communication and, increasingly, for travel motivation. The current paper aims to build the narratives attached
Food market to cheese in the city of Gouda, The Netherlands. Drawing on a qualitative design which relies on a non-
Rural development
participant observation case, unstructured interviews with local cheese actors, and a visual autoethnography,
The Netherlands
Visual autoethnography
results show the incorporation of cheese within Gouda people, city, and tourists as a form of city talking to the
world through cheese. This paper informs local and regional tourism planners how ‘cheese’ in Gouda commu
nicates regional identity to visitors, which serves to better design, plan, and promote food tourism activities and
experiences.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2020.100252
Received 8 June 2020; Received in revised form 6 August 2020; Accepted 9 August 2020
Available online 15 August 2020
1878-450X/© 2020 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
F. Fusté-Forné International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science 22 (2020) 100252
table, […] and the very smell of their kitchens while they are cooking, constantly commodified (see, for example, Hobsbawm and Ranger,
all play their parts” (David, 1970, p.15). In this sense, food as a heritage 1983) and spectacularised (see Pine and Gilmore, 1998), this must not
product is heavily linked to its place of origin (Bessière and Tibère, contradict the meanings attached to authentic heritages. With this
2013). “The authenticity of place, in other words, is lost as a particular objective, “tourist destinations institutionalise, legitimise and promo
dish is removed, or disembedded, from its indigenous locale and recre tionalise those identities. More precisely, tourist destinations make their
ated in an alternative location” (Jones and Taylor, 2001, p.180). A food gastronomic identities available to all” (Fox, 2007, p.551). How do they
is rooted in the landscape where it grows (Fusté-Forné, 2020). This achieve it? Through the structuring of a ‘gastrospeak’. Food, in partic
understanding offers an opportunity for local public and private initia ular cheese, also becomes a marketable identity of Gouda: a Gouda’s
tives where the heritagisation of food promotes the conservation, souvenir which may influence tourist satisfaction and recommendation
transmission, and revival of memories attached to a place (Bessière, (see, for example, Suhartanto et al., 2018). Within this context, the
1998). Articulated by various local actors (Littaye, 2015), there is a landscapes of cheese in Gouda are the basis to build, and communicate,
significant role of the people who are involved with all the processes of the gastronomic ‘cheese’ identity of Gouda. This research contributes to
food manufacturing: “the stories about the passionate people behind the fill a research gap within the food-oriented tourism literature, where
food on our plate [and] the celebration of our cultural diversity through cheese as an example of food heritage communication will help to
the sharing of food” (Brett, 2016). enhance a destination’s gastronomic identity.
In a tourism context, the appeal of food has been largely studied (see,
for example, Hall and Sharples, 2003, or, recently, Ellis et al., 2018). Study method
Authenticity is understood as a way to explore the uniqueness of a place
(Long, 2004; Sims, 2009). Here, food plays a large role in memory In order to respond to the research objective and tackle the various
(Sutton, 2001) and as a significant motivation factor for traveling (Hall, practices and meanings that inform the culture of Gouda cheese, this
2016). With regards to the food tourist experience, Hai Nguyen and paper relies on a qualitative methodology has been designed, primarily
Cheung (2016) affirm that “the presence of people or activities which based on a non-participant observation study (Somekh and Lewin,
belong to or originate from the site can help to build visitors’ trust and 2005), where ‘cheese’ is identified as the observation factor. The author
increase the level of perceived authenticity […] The sounds, sights, and investigated how local shops, museums and organizations that have to
smells tourists experience during the visits significantly shape their do with cheese represent their relations to it and through it in the city of
perceptions of authenticity” (p.1005). Regional products and dishes Gouda. Field work was conducted between July 16 and July 18, 2019.
produced and consumed at the ‘source’ offer a “specific sensory win Data collection consisted of visits and informal conversations with 9
dow” (Telfer and Hashimoto, 2003, p.158) into the idiosyncrasies of a local actors: at the tourism office, the Cheese Museum, with two of the
place (Gyimóthy and Mykletun, 2009, p.260). Smith Maguire stated that organisers of the Cheese Market (one of them acting as the weighmaster
“people just like to have connections with the people with whom they do the day of the interview), the four owners of the cheese shops located in
transactions … People really want to feel they have a connection, so they the city centre, and one of the founders of the Gouda Cheese Experience
have wine in the fridge that they can pull out and say to friends, ‘Oh I project. Also, data collection included the process of walking and
met the winemaker and he was delightful’” (Smith Maguire, 2010, recording the presence of cheese within the streets of the city. Here,
p.278). As a consequence, according to Bell and Valentine (1997), visual autoethnography was used to capture cheese as a way of life in
“regional identity becomes enshrined in bottles of wine and hunks of Gouda, via observation. According to Scarles (2010), “visual autoeth
cheese” (p.34). This paper particularly investigates how place identity is nography emerges as a fusion of observation and first-hand experience”
manifested through the case of cheese. (p.909) which serves to contextualize the analysis and, in this case,
provides a visual representation of the gastrospeak as part of the
Food and the communication of an intangible heritage findings.
Foodways are an example of both human communication and Speaking ‘cheese’ in Gouda, The Netherlands
intangible cultural heritage (Lum and Ferrière le Vayer, 2016). In this
sense, “foodways-related intangible heritage is a form of intergenera The production of Gouda cheese dates back to the 14th century and it
tional communication or, put differently, the transmission over time of has remained as a significant cultural and identity marker of Dutch
distinct food-related practices, representations, expressions, knowledge, people. Gouda Cheese Market (Gouda KaasMarkt in Dutch), which
and skills that members of a community, large or small, consider to be started in 1395, has been the place where the ‘spectacle’ of cheese
vital or significant to their cultural well-being or uniqueness” (Lum and happened for centuries. Nowadays, the market is a historic and nostalgic
Ferrière le Vayer, 2016, p.4). Food is a sociocultural asset which helps in representation of the traditional market (VVV Gouda, 2019). Cheese
defining who we are, food being inseparable from both tangible and produced in Gouda region represents almost two-thirds of Dutch cheese
intangible meanings (Abarca and Colby, 2016, p.2). Here, according to production (Netherlands Bureau for Tourism and Congresses, 2019),
Carolan (2011) “food is central to defining the manner by which peo and it made essential contributions to the Dutch economy during the last
ple’s emotional, psychological, social, economic, political, historical, centuries (Kindstedt, 2012) – The Netherlands is one of the world’s
and cultural realities are embodied as a lived and living history” (Car largest producers of cheese (Eurostat, 2019).
olan, 2011, p.9). This author advocates that food memories are heavily Gouda attracted 1,1 million visitors in 2017 (De Goudsche Waag,
shaping the narratives of our lives. This paper contributes to this idea by 2018). Gouda is advertised as the cheese capital of the world. Cheese is
analysing the narratives associated with cheese. Specifically, this everywhere along the streets (Fig. 1). Also, the city offers a range of
research deals with the construction of what Fox (2007) defines as a cheese products and experiences which go from the cheese shops
‘gastrospeak’. (Fig. 2), to the working project of Gouda Cheese Experience – at the time
Fox (2007) reveals that “every culture is marked by a characteristic of the visit, it was still a ‘small’ shop which is planned to become a big
choice of foodstuffs, dishes, and menus, habitually consumed and in project called the Gouda Cheese Experience in 2020 –, and the Cheese
popular imagination tied to that culture as spaghetti are tied to Italian, Museum, where we can find the historical cheese weighting machine
wurst to German, and quiche to French culture. Throughout history, (Fig. 3) together with other traditional machinery (Fig. 4). However,
trade, travel, transport and technology have been affecting the gastro among all the cheese-based experiences in Gouda, the Cheese Market
nomic identities of regions and countries, continually changing what is emerges as the most significant (Fig. 5). It was in 1987 when it started
generally perceived as customary” (p.555). This is the case of cheese to the Cheese Market for tourists. For centuries farmers have come from the
Gouda. While food and culinary identities of places and destinations are villages to the market place with the horse carriages full of cheeses.
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F. Fusté-Forné International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science 22 (2020) 100252
Local people perform every Thursday from Spring to Autumn to show Gouda Cheese Market is organised by local people – volunteers who
visitors and tourists how farmers and cheese traders buy and sell cheese. affirm they enjoy remembering and communicating old traditions which
In terms of cheese consumption, one of the cheese shop owners showcase the identity of Gouda. Here, one of the most expected mo
acknowledged that cheese is also well-integrated within local buyers – ments of the Gouda Cheese Market is when the farmer and the trader
and also in restaurants’ offer (see, for example, Fig. 6). “We [the locals] make a deal, and they confirm it by clapping hands to each other. That
buy cheese to eat on bread, then we buy from very young to very old means trade is done and cheese is sold. After that, cheeses are brought to
cheese, but then mostly natural, and we also buy cheese for in between the weight house (now the tourist office, which is also the home of a
and with a drink, also we usually buy cheese with an extra addition such cheese shop). As part of the experience, one of the organisers also
as garlic, herbs, or cumin, while tourists prefer cheeses with truffle, acknowledged that many visitors want to know how cheese is made.
tomato or basil”. Cheese is part of daily eating habits of local people and Next to the cheese market visitors can discover first-hand the cheese
of the tourist experience. Many different flavours are observed in the making process (see Fig. 8).
huge variety of cheese offer, incorporating all the ingredients one can A cheese shop owner, who is also a farmer, reported that four-fifths
imagine (Fig. 7). of Gouda cheese production still comes from local farms – non-
Traditional cheese trade started in the Middle Ages. Nowadays, pasteurised cheese made of raw milk. He states that “the authentic
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F. Fusté-Forné International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science 22 (2020) 100252
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F. Fusté-Forné International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science 22 (2020) 100252
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F. Fusté-Forné International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science 22 (2020) 100252
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Declaration of competing interest 999–1010.
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