Professional Documents
Culture Documents
2022
INTERNSHIP REPORT
Contents
Safety Measure in Nishat Dying................................................................................4
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)....................................................................4
Dealing with Fire Hazards:.....................................................................................4
Quality Control/ Greige..............................................................................................6
Different types of grey fabric are inspected in this section:................................6
Objectives of Inspection.........................................................................................6
Four point inspection system:.................................................................................7
General instructions for the final inspection:..........................................................8
Singeing:.................................................................................................................9
Objectives of Singeing:...........................................................................................9
Desizing:.................................................................................................................9
Enzymatic Desizing:.............................................................................................10
Advantages of enzyme desizing:..........................................................................10
Scouring:..................................................................................................................10
Description of the bleaching of cotton by hydrogen per-oxide:...........................12
Mercerization:
....................................................................................................................12
DYING.....................................................................................................................15
SELECTION OF DYES:......................................................................................15
MAIN PARTS OF DYEING MACHINE:...........................................................16
2. Scray:..............................................................................................................16
4. Trough:..............................................................................................................17
5. Kusters Padder..................................................................................................17
6. VTG................................................................................................................17
7. I.R Chambers....................................................................................................17
Drying Chambers.....................................................................................................17
Cooling drums..........................................................................................................18
Inlet section........................................................................................................18
Hot drums..............................................................................................................18
Curing Chambers..................................................................................................19
Cooling drums.......................................................................................................19
FINISHING DEPARTMENT:.................................................................................19
Durable..............................................................................................................20
Trough...................................................................................................................21
SANFORIZING:...................................................................................................22
Cooling drums.......................................................................................................23
Material flow in Sanforizing.................................................................................23
Outlet section:.......................................................................................................23
QUALITY Assurance DEPARTMENT...............................................................24
QUALITY ASSURANCE:...................................................................................24
ON-LINE TESTING:............................................................................................24
QA Inspection report.............................................................................................25
DYEING LAB......................................................................................................25
PURPOSE OF DYEING LAB..............................................................................26
Introduction
The Textile
Over the years, Pakistan is said to be the single crop economy i.e. cotton and textile
that claims the lion's share in terms of the contribution in the national economy of
Pakistan. Despite efforts to bring in diversification in country's overall economic
get-up the textile sector continues to be the most important segment of the national
economy. Its share in the economy, in terms of GDP, exports, employment, foreign
exchange earnings, investment and revenue generation altogether placed the textile
industry as the single largest determinant of the economic growth of the country.
Despite harsh and hard international economic conditions, Pakistan's textile
industry has weathered the storm by coming out of the international crisis in a very
positive manner. During the year exports were controlled from falling and
significant investment was made in value-added expansion and in Balancing-
Modernization- Replacement (BMR). Besides fall out of the events of September
11, the implementation of WTO's agreement, various bilateral agreements have
been signed and implemented. As a result global scenario has changed.
Government and the corporate textile sector adjusted their policies to achieve
maximum benefits of free trade. So, local structure of the corporate culture,
investment pattern and fiscal and monetary policies were significantly changed.
Nishat Group
*The Nishat Group* Mian Muhammad Mansha Yaha is the captain of this splendid
ship having around 30 companies on board. Mansha, who owns the Muslim
Commercial Bank as well, is now setting up a billion rupee ($ 17 m) paper sack
project too. He is one of the richest Pakistanis around. Nishat Group was country's
15th richest family in 1970, 6th in 1990 and Number 1 in 1997. Mansha is on the
board of nearly 50 companies. Chinioti by clan, Mansha is married to Yousaf
Saigol's daughter. He is deemed to have made investments in many bourses,
currency and metal exchanges both within and outside Pakistan. He has had his
share of luck on many occasions in life and has recently been awarded Pakistan's
highest civil award by President Musharraf. He could have bought the United Bank
too, but then who doesn't have adversaries. Nishat Group of comprises of textiles,
cement, leasing, insurance and management companies. If Mansha was bitten by
Bhutto's nationalization stint of 1970, his friends think he was compensated by
Nawaz Sharif's denationalization programme to a very good effect. There is no
stopping Mansha and he is still on the move! The history of Nishat Group dates
back to 1951, when Mian Muhammad Yahya founded Nishat Mills Limited.
This man of vision, courage and integrity, Mian Mohammad Yahya was born in
1918 in Chiniot. In 1947 when he was running leather business in Calcutta, he
witnessed by the momentous changes that swept the Indo-Pak subcontinent.
This is story of success through sheer hard work and an undaunted spirit of
enterprise. Beginning with a cotton export house, he soon branched out in to
ginning, cotton and jute textiles, chemicals and insurance. He was elected
Chairman of all Pakistan Textile Mills Association. He died in 1969, at the age of
51 having achieved so much in so short time. After almost half a century of
undaunted success, Nishat group is among the leading business houses of the
country and ranks among the top 5 groups in terms of assets and sale revenue
Vision
To transform the company into a modern and dynamic yarn, cloth and processed
cloth and finished product manufacturing company with highly professionals and
fully equipped to play a meaningful role on sustain able basis in the economy of
Pakistan.
Hence, to ensure the health and safety of its employees, contractors, and customers
and work for continual improvements in Health, Safety, Environment, and Quality
systems, ACI manage these affairs.
Before entering in any plant, the following PPE must be used for safety:
Safety Goggles: Eyes are the most sensitive part of a human body, to protect
them from hazardous gasses and chemicals, goggles must be used on the field.
Safety Shoes: On the field, there can be some maintenance of any equipment for
which all chemicals are drained out, so protect our feet from such hazardous
chemicals proper dedicated shoes must be worn on the field.
• Fuel
• Ignition (Temperature)
• Oxygen (Air Supply)
• We can deal with fire by remembering just the following few points and
using our reflexes at the right time.
1. Single Jersey
2. Single Lacost
3. Double Lacost
4. Double Jersey or Heavy Jersey
5. Plain Interlock
6. Needle Top Interlock
7. 1 × 1 Rib
8. 2 × 1 Rib
9. 2 × 2 Rib
10.Lycra Rib
11.Very Rib
12.Loop Back
13.Rib with lycra
Objectives of Inspection
Hole <1’’ 2
Hole >1’’ 4
As per formulation:
= Yds
Or
1. All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 Linear yards
Mapping will be done on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not
count more than 4 points per one yard.
2. All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an
accurate account of points made to insure proper grading.
3. All fabric must meet specifications.
4. At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points
and decide whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not,
reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and upgraded for shipment.
Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality.
5. The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality
levels and check the lower quality
Singeing:
Singeing is a part of the pretreatment processes carried out in textile processing,
and is usually the first step carried out after weaving. It is a process of passing an
open-width fabric over a gas flame or hot plate at such a distance and speed that it
burns only the protruding fibers but does not damage the main fabric. The main
objective of the singeing process is to produce a clean fabric surface and
reduce fabric pilling tendency by removing the protruding fibers from the fabric
surface. In singeing process the surface of yarn or fabric in order to improve the
luster and smoothness of the material. The ‘fuzz’, as the protruding fibers also
tends to scatter incident light on the yarn or fabric surface and contributes to a dull
appearance of the textile material. Removal of ‘fuzz’ results in a smoother and
more uniform surface that reflects more light and therefore gives a brighter
appearance.
Objectives of Singeing:
Desizing:
Desizing is done in order to remove the size from the wrap yarns of the woven
fabrics. Wrap yarns are coated with sizing agents prior to weaving in order to
reduce their frictional properties, decrease yarn breakages on the loom and improve
weaving productivity by increasing weft insertion speeds. The sizing material
present on the wrap yarns can act as a resist towards dyes and chemicals in textile
wet processing. It must, therefore, be removed before any subsequent wet
processing of the fabric.
Objects of Desizing:
Enzymatic Desizing:
Enzymatic desizing is the most widely used method for the removel of starch,
amylases being particularly suitable. The advantage in the use pf enzymes is that
starches are decomposed without damaging cellulose fiber. These are fairly
sensitive to temperature changes from the optimum. Bacterial desizing agents
like rapidase are active over a wider temperature range and have certain other
advantages, like tolerance of variation in pH.
Enzymes suffer from one disadvantage that if the conditions of temperature and
pH are not favourable, their desizing activity is destroyed.
Scouring:
Cotton fabric scouring is a chemical cleaning procedure that removes natural wax
and non-fibrous impurities from the fabrics, as well as any additional soiling or dirt.
Cotton fabric is usually scoured in kiers, which are large iron vessels
Objectives/purpose of Scouring:
1. Natural and synthetic oils, fats, and waxes are removed from clothing
products
2. Improve hydrophilicity
3. Improve absorbency
4. Prepare for the next process
5. To get uniform bleaching result
The scouring procedure is dependent on:
1. Saponification
2. Emulsification
3. Detergenc
4. Detergents: Emulsify fats, oils and waxes; remove oil borne stains; suspend
materials after they have been removed
Bleaching:
Bleaching is the 3rd step of wet processing. The process by which the natural
color of a fiber can be removed and make the textile material pure white and
bright is called bleaching.
Objects of bleaching:
H2O2 is an oxidizing agent which is used largely for cellulose fibre bleaching.
H2O2 is also used for protein fibre such as wool, silk-bleaching etc. In
H2O2 bleaching, H2O2 releases hydrogen ion (H+) and per hydroxyl ion (HO2-). Here,
PH level is maintained 10.7 – 10.9.
Per hydroxyl ion is released for alkalinity of hydrogen per-oxide solution. This per
ion bleached the textile materials. H+ ion has no bleaching action. It maintains
PH level.
The Process:
Fabric enters from entry platter in mercerizing machine and enter into the
impregnator or wet mangle for wetting. Then fabric enters into the first saturator
after passing from 8-ton padder having pad pressure of 7-ton. Saturator contains
sodium hydroxide having concentration of 22 – 28 Baume at temperature of
35ºC. After first saturator fabric is squeezes by 10-ton pad roller with pad
pressure 6- ton and passes over 8 draw rollers or timing drums which give
tension to the fabric for the improvement of warp wise dimension of the fabric.
There is a tension meter which is used to adjust the tension of fabric over these
draw rollers. After passing through these draw rollers, fabric enters into the
second saturator having sodium hydroxide of concentration 28º Baume at
temperature of 30ºC. After saturator fabric again goes to the six timing/draw
rollers. There is a chiller at the back of m/c used to cool the sodium hydroxide.
Chiller is a shell and tube heat exchanger. In tubes brine solution is present and
in shell NaOH is present. There are gauges for temperature indication of brine.
For chilling purpose Freon 12 gas is used which cool down the temperature of
brine and brine cool down the temperature of sodium hydroxide. After
saturation from University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya
DYING
It is defined as under; The application of solid color to the textile material from dye
liquor, is called as dyeing.
OR
The process that produce chemical or physical changes in the substrates that the
reflection of light appears as colored, is called as dyeing.
SELECTION OF DYES:
11. In Vat dyes secondary & tertiary dyes are preferred and to avoid primary
dyes e.g, we can use Brown in place of Red, Olive in place of Yellow and
Grey in place of Blue.
12. For navy shades avoid to use Rem. Black B in recipes below 15 g/l
because in small quantity its behavior in production is not good.
13. Rem. Navy RGB has poor light fastness so it is used conditionally.
14. If the customer’s requirement is to dye the fabric in Pigments then we
first develop 50% shade in reactive dyes and then apply pigment on the
remaining shade.
MAIN PARTS OF DYEING MACHINE:
1. Pad dryers Two pad dryers on dyeing floor are working and third pad
thermosol is under erection. If we stand in dyeing kitchen then on our left
hand side there is pad dry # 1 and on right hand side there is pad dry #2 pad
dryer consists of following parts. 1.
Feeding section
Pad mangle
Wetting unit
Thermex hot-flue
Measuring and control unit (chamber atmosphere)
Steam injection unit
Outlet section
Scray:
There is scray in front of pad dry # 2 and not in front of pad dry # 1 through
which we can get fabric in pilling manner in order to give enough time for
stitching of fabric. The capacity of the scray is about 400-600 meter depend
upon quality.
Cooling rollers
There are two cooling rollers and from scray, fabric flows from these cooling
rollers. The function of these rollers are,
1. Moderate the temperature of fabric, so that it will not raise the temperature of
trough.
2. Because the temperature of trough should not be raised or varied. As the
temperature of trough raised, if we are using reactive dyes, then it will may react
with OH- of water which should be avoid also, this exchange of heat will may
cause LCR problems .
Trough:
Line washing is done from dyeing kitchen up to the trough of pad dryer. Then
according to the lab dip recipe, the dye stuff is pumped into the rough of pad dryer.
But first we stitch the fabric to be died with the leading fabric and when the leading
fabric passed the trough of pad dryer we fill the trough with dyestuff up to 55 to 60
liter.
Line washing is some times done by not water or with 2% hydro and caustic.
Kusters Padder
padders are used to avoid the LCR problems i.e. shade difference in left, center and
right sides of fabric. Central pressure of padder is hydraulic pressure and left and
right side pressure of padder are pneumatic pressures. A graph is provided in the
panel which shows that what pressure should be adjusted at left and right sides of
padder with respect to central pressure. Here we have fixed the central pressure at 2
bar and then we adjust the left and right pressure according to requirement. If left or
right side of fabric shows more depth then we increase the pressure. If it shows
lighter depth then we decrease the pressure of that side of fabric. The kuster's
padder should be adjusted here in such away that pickup should be 65%.
VTG
These are the predryers which are used to remove approximately 40% of water
from the fabric. The purpose of pre drying is to avoid the migration of dye stuff. I.R
have more penetration power than an ordinary dryer and can evaporate water
molecules from the inner core of fiber without coming out on surface. Thus in this
way evaporation of water is done from inner side of fabric without coming out on
the surface and thus die will remain inside the fiber. In I.R chamber gas is mixed
with air. Mixing is done by sucking air with the help of blower and then mixing it
with constant ratio.
Drying Chambers
There are three drying chambers. In each chamber there is a radiator in which
steam is flowing. Besides there is a blower which sucks air from the atmosphere
and circulates this air by centrifugal action in whole chamber. Therefore it will
result in heat transfer from steam in radiator to the air circulating in the chamber.
And the condensed steam is collected at the other side of chamber. In each chamber
there is a dancer for compensating the tension of the fabric. In 2nd and 3rd chamber
there is a special roller before the compensator, which is used to shutdown machine
if there is problem in the machine i.e. whether the compensator is not working
properly or tension is becoming out of order. There is a indicator instrument
attached to this roller and it will give signal to the panel when this roller change its
position and machine will shutdown. In 1st chamber, rollers are Teflon coated to
avoid sticking of chemicals to the rollers which will effect the fabric. Also PLEVA
is present in each chamber which shows %age humidity within the chamber on the
panel. There is a gauge on each dryer which is showing the balance of air inside the
chamber. If it is at 0 (neutral), it means air in upper and lower side is same. If
positive + , then it means air in upper side is more then lower side and if it is
negative- it means air in lower side is more then air in upper portion. However,
here the neutral condition is desirable.
One more lever is present which is used to adjust the air to be exhausted from the
chamber. A filter is present on the bottom of chamber, which collects the fluff and
is time to time remove from chamber.
Cooling drums
If the fabric is not to be cured then it should be cooled down to at least room
temperature to get the fabric in the trolley. For this purpose, in these cooling drums,
cooling water or normal water is flowing which lower down the temperature of the
fabric. However, if fabric is to be cured then water is not circulated in these drums
because in curing hot fabric is required rather then cold fabric.
CURING MACHINE:
Hot drums
Steam is directly insert inside the drums from one side of each drum. After hot the
drum condense out from other side. There are four hot drums. The purpose of hot
drums is to hot the fabric so that when fabric inter in the hot chamber the uneven
dyeing may be occur.
Curing Chambers
There are two curing chambers. These chambers are use for the high temperature
dyes fix up specially for polyester. Polyester required a high temperature for pick
the dyes particles. Above 200c polyester molecules are convert in their vibrating
form so when they are vibrate dyes particles goes inside the polyester fibers so that
disperse dyes molecules have very small molecular size. These chambers are same
as drying chambers of pad dry machine but there are difference of heating system.
There is use thermo oil for heating purpose but the mechanism is same as pad dry.
Cooling drums
After drying chambers fabric is out in hot condition cooling drum are use to normal
the temperature of the fabric. There are four cooling drums of stainless steel. Water
is use to cool the drums by continuous passage of water. Water is enter from one
side and out from the other side.
Curing specification
FINISHING DEPARTMENT:
There are a lot of techniques to finish the fabric which depend on,
• Nature of the fabric
• Physical properties of the fabric
• End-use
• Special effect
• Chemical modification
PURPOSE OF FINISHING
STENTER:
Mahlo
It consists of 7 rollers. 3 of them are banana rollers and 3 consists of steel rollers of
simple type. Banana rollers are used for bowing and other 3 rollers are used for
skewing. 4 small instruments are used for measuring the amount of skew and bow
in the fabric and then adjusting the skew and bow rollers automatically. These
instruments show reading on control panel and use the mechanism of light
transmittance and reflectance. They throw light on the fabric and
measure the amount of light reflected or transmitted. The mechanism of bowing or
skewing is that when pressure is applied on any part of the fabric, then that part
remains backward and the other part due to looseness goes forward and thus we can
get rid of bow or skew can be created in the fabric. Skew is the requirement of
some garments companies. Most often it is run on manual control and we enter the
required data hree rollers between the Mahlo and the Stenter facilitate to change
Stenter hain and fix the speed of machine so that it remains fix and don’t change
during processing. Amount of moisture is shown on the panel. T the flow rate of
fabric according to our consent. We can change the speed of motors of these rollers
to change the flow rate. It facilitates to get proper pinning of fabric.
Stenter chain:
Two types of Stenter are present. One Stenter has pins to hold the fabric and take it
through Stenter chambers. Other Stenter has chains to hold the fabric. On pin
system Stenter, fabric is pressed on these pins with the help of small roller fitted
with the motor and then pressing by brush like roller to press completely the fabric
on pins. A sensor is fitted which sense the presence of fabric. If fabric is not
present, it stops the machine immediately.
Total no. of chambers in stenter are eight. Temperature of every stenter is different
and can be controlled through control panel. . Every chamber has two motors. Half
part of chamber is run by one motor and the other half by other motor. These
motors circulates the heat inside the chamber. They are also called blowers. These
motors suck air from inside the chamber and then introduce this air in duck lining
to heat up the fabric. Two major exhaust are fitted to exhaust the moisturized gases.
Fresh air can only enter in the Stenter chambers from entry and exit points of
fabric. A small instrument is fitted in every chamber which has a small rod present
just above the fabric to know the temperature of chamber. A Pleva is fitted in the
centre of Stenter to measure the humidity of air inside the chambers. Then the
efficiency of exhausts can be adjusted according to the humidity of air. For width
adjustment of Stenter, we have four points inside the chambers. Stenter chambers
are heated by thermoil. Thermoil exchanges its heat by using heat exchanger.
Thermoil moves inside the small cylinder like rods and heat up the cylinder. Air
moves through these cylinder and gets heated. Then it is circulated by the blower
inside the chamber. Speed of fabric in Stenter is so adjusted that dry fabric is
obtained. At the end of Stenter chambers, a blower is fitted which sucks the fresh
air and through it on the fabric coming out of Stenter chambers to cool down the
fabric. Three small rollers are present at the end of Stenter chain. These are
collectively called RMS (residual moisture sensor). It measures the amount of
moisture in the fabric and gives signal on the control panel. An emergency stop is
present at the end of Stenter chain. It consist of thread connecting with the sensor.
When we press this thread, machine is stopped. Here, width of Stenter chain can be
adjusted as well.
SANFORIZING:
The main purpose of Sanforizing is to shrink the fabric warp wise & weft wise
according to customer. It consists of following parts, Inlet Section It consists on the
tensioner plaiter and free guide rollers. In the inlet section most important water
showers jacket and water plate to wet the fabric for even the moisture. Steam
cylinder is use to heat the fabric so that moisture inside the fabric almost same for
better shrinkage. This steam cylinder has small holes for liberation of steam. This
can produce stain on the fabric. To avoid this a piece of fabric roll on this cylinder
so that steam can pass through this rolled fabric and can heat the fabric. Sleeve
Sleeve is the major portion of Sanforizing machine. It consists of a big rubber
mounted on two rollers. It is made of special kind of rubber. It was 68 cm in thick
when it was installed. As the time passes, it gets thinner and thinner and is used till
40 cm thick. Then it is replaced. Its surface is grinded and is intentionally made
because only in this form it can hold and stretch the fabric. For grinding, a special
kind of roller is supplied by the manufacturing company. This roller is attached
with the sleeve after every 5 lack meters to grind its surface. The central large roller
is internally heated with steam. This roller is very hot. Basically fabric is release on
the sleeve at this position dry cylinder pressed on fabric for shrink the fabric. The
These curing chambers are same as dyeing curing chambers but in these chambers
length between upper and lower rollers is greater. These chambers are used to
remove the polypropylene contamination. These are also use to fixation of special
kind of finishes that are applied at high temperature. However, blend of lycra
(polyurethane) can not be cured because lycra will be damaged at such a high
temperature. So polypropylene contamination can not removed by curing from
lycra blends. It consists of two chambers. The heating chamber is same as dyeing
curing chambers. These chambers are heated by thermoil. Heat exchanger is
present inside these chambers. Air is passed through this heat exchanger and
increase the inside temperature of chambers. Motors are used for circulation of air
inside these chambers. Air is fall on the fabric by ducks lining is present above the
upper rollers and below the lower rollers. Maximum temperature of 230 is achieved
by the curing. Two dancers are present in each chamber. Polypropylene
contamination is removed at temperature of 210o C is provided for 3 minutes. Thus
all polypropylene contamination is sublimed and fabric becomes free from
polypropylene contamination.
Outlet section:
after curing fabric is collect in the trolley under plaiter. Fabric is pull by draw
roller.
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
Quality assurance is a system of check & balance for the monitoring of the
processes applied on the fabric in our processing unit. They act like an independent
body.
QUALITY ASSURANCE:
This is responsible for monitoring the fabric on floor during different processes.
QA inspectors are independent and standing on every machine and look after the
process parameters, faults on the fabric etc.
Their main works are
Monitoring the processes apply on the fabric from grey to folding
department.
Check out the faults may arise on the fabric during any process
Take samples for Technical Lab for testing after every process this is also
called on line testing.
If the inspector noted any problem in process first he informed the shift
engineer of the concerned department and then informed his senior staff.
In case of major faults, technical problem or any other mishap then the
inspector made a written report and forward to his manager.
ON-LINE TESTING:
On-Line testing mean to check out the results of the process on the fabric by
applying the counter tests in technical lab. For this QA inspectors are monitoring
every process and at the end of every process a sample is delivered to the technical
lab to apply recommended tests. The results are issued by the lab on PMS
(Production Management System). If the tests are OK then the fabric is allowed to
go to the next department otherwise fabric is retreated.
QA Inspection report
DYEING LAB
The first and foremost place where a shade can be prepared and examined against
standards. Dyeing lab is the place where we develop recipies for different
color/shades as per customer provided sample. Lab shade is developed on such
parameters that it can easily be adopted for bulk production on dying floor.
Actually dying lab acts as a foundation for bulk production because selection of
dyes according to the customer requirements and matching of the shade under
recommended light sources is primarily carried out here to facilitate the bulk
production. This lab is well equipped by dye application padder, curing machine,
chemical pad steam for reactive and vat dyes separately. In lab the most important
equipments are Data Color, Auto Lab Dispenser and auto Lab Solution Maker.
PURPOSE OF DYEING LAB