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NISHAT CHUNIAN Industries LTD.

2022

INTERNSHIP REPORT

Submitted to: Nishat Mills

As partial fulfillment of the requirements for internship


certificate

Summitted by: Abdul Hanan Wali


Reg no. FA19-CHE-042

Department Of Chemical Engineering,

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Comsats University Islamabad

Contents
Safety Measure in Nishat Dying................................................................................4
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)....................................................................4
Dealing with Fire Hazards:.....................................................................................4
Quality Control/ Greige..............................................................................................6
Different types of grey fabric are inspected in this section:................................6
Objectives of Inspection.........................................................................................6
Four point inspection system:.................................................................................7
General instructions for the final inspection:..........................................................8
Singeing:.................................................................................................................9
Objectives of Singeing:...........................................................................................9
Desizing:.................................................................................................................9
Enzymatic Desizing:.............................................................................................10
Advantages of enzyme desizing:..........................................................................10
Scouring:..................................................................................................................10
Description of the bleaching of cotton by hydrogen per-oxide:...........................12
Mercerization:
....................................................................................................................12
DYING.....................................................................................................................15
SELECTION OF DYES:......................................................................................15
MAIN PARTS OF DYEING MACHINE:...........................................................16
2. Scray:..............................................................................................................16
4. Trough:..............................................................................................................17
5. Kusters Padder..................................................................................................17
6. VTG................................................................................................................17
7. I.R Chambers....................................................................................................17
Drying Chambers.....................................................................................................17
Cooling drums..........................................................................................................18
Inlet section........................................................................................................18

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Hot drums..............................................................................................................18
Curing Chambers..................................................................................................19
Cooling drums.......................................................................................................19
FINISHING DEPARTMENT:.................................................................................19
Durable..............................................................................................................20
Trough...................................................................................................................21
SANFORIZING:...................................................................................................22
Cooling drums.......................................................................................................23
Material flow in Sanforizing.................................................................................23
Outlet section:.......................................................................................................23
QUALITY Assurance DEPARTMENT...............................................................24
QUALITY ASSURANCE:...................................................................................24
ON-LINE TESTING:............................................................................................24
QA Inspection report.............................................................................................25
DYEING LAB......................................................................................................25
PURPOSE OF DYEING LAB..............................................................................26

Introduction
The Textile
Over the years, Pakistan is said to be the single crop economy i.e. cotton and textile
that claims the lion's share in terms of the contribution in the national economy of
Pakistan. Despite efforts to bring in diversification in country's overall economic
get-up the textile sector continues to be the most important segment of the national
economy. Its share in the economy, in terms of GDP, exports, employment, foreign
exchange earnings, investment and revenue generation altogether placed the textile
industry as the single largest determinant of the economic growth of the country.
Despite harsh and hard international economic conditions, Pakistan's textile
industry has weathered the storm by coming out of the international crisis in a very
positive manner. During the year exports were controlled from falling and
significant investment was made in value-added expansion and in Balancing-
Modernization- Replacement (BMR). Besides fall out of the events of September
11, the implementation of WTO's agreement, various bilateral agreements have
been signed and implemented. As a result global scenario has changed.

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Government and the corporate textile sector adjusted their policies to achieve
maximum benefits of free trade. So, local structure of the corporate culture,
investment pattern and fiscal and monetary policies were significantly changed.

Nishat Group
*The Nishat Group* Mian Muhammad Mansha Yaha is the captain of this splendid
ship having around 30 companies on board. Mansha, who owns the Muslim
Commercial Bank as well, is now setting up a billion rupee ($ 17 m) paper sack
project too. He is one of the richest Pakistanis around. Nishat Group was country's
15th richest family in 1970, 6th in 1990 and Number 1 in 1997. Mansha is on the
board of nearly 50 companies. Chinioti by clan, Mansha is married to Yousaf
Saigol's daughter. He is deemed to have made investments in many bourses,
currency and metal exchanges both within and outside Pakistan. He has had his
share of luck on many occasions in life and has recently been awarded Pakistan's
highest civil award by President Musharraf. He could have bought the United Bank
too, but then who doesn't have adversaries. Nishat Group of comprises of textiles,
cement, leasing, insurance and management companies. If Mansha was bitten by
Bhutto's nationalization stint of 1970, his friends think he was compensated by
Nawaz Sharif's denationalization programme to a very good effect. There is no
stopping Mansha and he is still on the move! The history of Nishat Group dates
back to 1951, when Mian Muhammad Yahya founded Nishat Mills Limited.
This man of vision, courage and integrity, Mian Mohammad Yahya was born in
1918 in Chiniot. In 1947 when he was running leather business in Calcutta, he
witnessed by the momentous changes that swept the Indo-Pak subcontinent.
This is story of success through sheer hard work and an undaunted spirit of
enterprise. Beginning with a cotton export house, he soon branched out in to
ginning, cotton and jute textiles, chemicals and insurance. He was elected
Chairman of all Pakistan Textile Mills Association. He died in 1969, at the age of
51 having achieved so much in so short time. After almost half a century of
undaunted success, Nishat group is among the leading business houses of the
country and ranks among the top 5 groups in terms of assets and sale revenue

Vision
To transform the company into a modern and dynamic yarn, cloth and processed
cloth and finished product manufacturing company with highly professionals and
fully equipped to play a meaningful role on sustain able basis in the economy of
Pakistan.

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Safety Measure in Nishat Dying


As working for a Chemical Industry, Sulfur is a combustible solid. Use water spray
to fight fires and to keep fire-exposed containers cool. Poisonous gases are
produced in fire, including Hydrogen Sulfide, Sulfur Dioxide and Sulfur Trioxide.,
it is necessary to take some special measurements and precautions to avoid any
major harms i.e., life loss.

Hence, to ensure the health and safety of its employees, contractors, and customers
and work for continual improvements in Health, Safety, Environment, and Quality
systems, ACI manage these affairs.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Before entering in any plant, the following PPE must be used for safety:

Safety Helmet: Chemical operations of plant are a combination of mechanical


and chemical operations, where there is a possibility that falling off any equipment
on the head can cause immediate death.

Safety Goggles: Eyes are the most sensitive part of a human body, to protect
them from hazardous gasses and chemicals, goggles must be used on the field.

Safety Shoes: On the field, there can be some maintenance of any equipment for
which all chemicals are drained out, so protect our feet from such hazardous
chemicals proper dedicated shoes must be worn on the field.

Dealing with Fire Hazards:

Fire is produced by the reaction of

• Fuel
• Ignition (Temperature)
• Oxygen (Air Supply)

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• We can deal with fire by remembering just the following few points and
using our reflexes at the right time.

Table 1. Fire Hazard Handling Guidelines


WHATS ON WHAT TO DO? HOW does IT work?
FIRE?
Solid materials Water at a very Water removes heat from the fire. This is
(wood, carpet) high flow rate possible through water’s ability to absorb
massive amounts of heat by converting
water to water vapor., hence fire is
extinguished
Liquid Materials 3% foam added to Water can’t be used directly over oils, petrol
(oils, water and sprayed because they have less density than water
LAB) and water can't cover them, rather a layer of
water settles down. When 3% foam is
mixed with water it gets less dense than
oils, petrol and hence cut off O2 supply.
Explosive Metals The phenomenon Water extinguishes fire by smothering the
of smothering is fire. When water is heated to its boiling
used. point, it converts to water vapor. When this
conversion takes place, it dilutes the oxygen
in the air with water vapor, thus removing
one of the elements that the fire requires to
burn.

Electrical DCP Extinguisher DCP fire extinguisher contains dry chemical


Appliances (Dry Calcium powder (Sodium Bicarbonate) in a container
(control panel, Powder) having a CO2 cartridge. The powder
contains approximately 80% of NaHCO3.
computer) When in contact with fire, it dissociates in
CO2 and H2O, thus depleting the
surrounding atmosphere from the oxygen
necessary to sustain the fire and at the same
time lowering the temperature by absorbing
energy to dissociate. Also, a layer of
powder will be deposited on the mass.
Direct contact with the surrounding air
becomes impossible, thus preventing re-
ignition of the fuel.

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Quality Control/ Greige


Griege refers to a cloth that is unfinished woven or knitted which is not bleached or
dyed yet. After the production of grey fabric on loom or knitting machine, grey
fabric machine is used to inspect the cloth. In this process different defects like
knots, broken weft ends, broken and loose warp ends are removed. The checking
and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of quality control in
the grey state. The grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two primary
consideration: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects

Different types of grey fabric are inspected in this section:

1. Single Jersey
2. Single Lacost
3. Double Lacost
4. Double Jersey or Heavy Jersey
5. Plain Interlock
6. Needle Top Interlock
7. 1 × 1 Rib
8. 2 × 1 Rib
9. 2 × 2 Rib
10.Lycra Rib
11.Very Rib
12.Loop Back
13.Rib with lycra

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Objectives of Inspection

• To check and G.S.M of fabric


• To identify the fabric faults
• To ensure about the fabric quality
• To classify the products according to the different quality based on the
demands of the buyer/ market or client

Four point inspection system:

Fabric is inspected through four point system

Table 1. Grey fabric inspection system


Length Point Acceptable Calculation

0 to 3’’ 1 Up to 40 points / 100Yds = A

>3’’ to  6’ 2 21-30 Points/100Yds       = B

>6’’ to  9’’ 3 31-40 Points/100Yds       = C

>9’’ 4 Above 40 Points Reject.

Hole <1’’ 2

Hole >1’’ 4

As per formulation:

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Dia × 36” × GSM ×2 ÷ 1550 ÷ 1000


—————————————————————-
Roll wt in KG

= Yds

Or

Roll wt ×39.37× 1000 ÷GSM÷ Dia ×39.37÷ 36 = Yds

TT´L PTS ×36 ×100


PTS/100= ———————————————————
………… …Roll Length (Yds) ×Actual width

General instructions for the final inspection:

1. All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 Linear yards
Mapping will be done on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not
count more than 4 points per one yard.
2. All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an
accurate account of points made to insure proper grading.
3. All fabric must meet specifications.
4. At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points
and decide whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not,
reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and upgraded for shipment.
Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality.
5. The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality
levels and check the lower quality

Problems occur during grey fabric inspection:

1. Disagreement between two inspectors regarding allocating penalty


points. It is suggested to have periodic round tests, i.e., getting the same
fabric inspected by different inspectors and making them to explain why
they consider something as a defect and something as not defect. Let
them come to one consensus. By this the difference of agreements shall
reduce.

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2. Fatigue of inspection; inspectors cannot see certain defects. When same


type of fabric is inspected for a long time, the eyes get fatigued and some
of the defects cannot be seen. It is therefore necessary to give rest to the
eyes for some time by asking the person to do other works like the
entries, moving the fabrics, cleaning the area and so on.
3. Demand for inspecting fast, whereas the defective points are more and
inspection is getting delayed. When the defects are more, the time taken
for inspection increases as each defect need to be marked, flagged and
data entered in the system.

Singeing:
Singeing is a part of the pretreatment processes carried out in textile processing,
and is usually the first step carried out after weaving. It is a process of passing an
open-width fabric over a gas flame or hot plate at such a distance and speed that it
burns only the protruding fibers but does not damage the main fabric. The main
objective of the singeing process is to produce a clean fabric surface and
reduce fabric pilling tendency by removing the protruding fibers from the fabric
surface. In singeing process the surface of yarn or fabric in order to improve the
luster and smoothness of the material. The ‘fuzz’, as the protruding fibers also
tends to scatter incident light on the yarn or fabric surface and contributes to a dull
appearance of the textile material. Removal of ‘fuzz’ results in a smoother and
more uniform surface that reflects more light and therefore gives a brighter
appearance.

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Objectives of Singeing:

1. Burning of projecting fibers from yarn/fabric surface.


2. Fabric/yarn surface become smooth, even and clean.
3. To develop maximum luster in the textile materials.
4. Help to create smart design by printing.
5. Save from uneven dyeing and printing.
6. To make the textile materials suitable for subsequent next process

Desizing:
Desizing is done in order to remove the size from the wrap yarns of the woven
fabrics. Wrap yarns are coated with sizing agents prior to weaving in order to

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reduce their frictional properties, decrease yarn breakages on the loom and improve
weaving productivity by increasing weft insertion speeds. The sizing material
present on the wrap yarns can act as a resist towards dyes and chemicals in textile
wet processing. It must, therefore, be removed before any subsequent wet
processing of the fabric.
Objects of Desizing:

1. To remove the starch material from the fabric.


2. To increase the absorbency power of the fabric.
3. To increase the affinity of the fabric to the dry chemicals.
4. To make the fabric suitable for the next process.
5. To increase the luster of the fabric increase of dyeing and printing.

Enzymatic Desizing:

Enzymatic desizing is the most widely used method for the removel of starch,
amylases being particularly suitable. The advantage in the use pf enzymes is that
starches are decomposed without damaging cellulose fiber. These are fairly
sensitive to temperature changes from the optimum. Bacterial desizing agents
like rapidase are active over a wider temperature range and have certain other
advantages, like tolerance of variation in pH.

Enzymes suffer from one disadvantage that if the conditions of temperature and
pH are not favourable, their desizing activity is destroyed.

Advantages of enzyme desizing:

1) Time required for desizing process is less.


2) It is a continuous process, so greater production can be achieved.
3) Closely constructed fabric can be easily desized, due to effective
enzyme action.

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4) There is no chance for the cellulose to get hydrolysed, as in acid


desizing.

Scouring:

Main purpose of cotton scouring is to eliminate natural and artificial impurities


from the fabric, making it cleaner and more absorbent.

Cotton fabric scouring is a chemical cleaning procedure that removes natural wax
and non-fibrous impurities from the fabrics, as well as any additional soiling or dirt.
Cotton fabric is usually scoured in kiers, which are large iron vessels

Objectives/purpose of Scouring:

1. Natural and synthetic oils, fats, and waxes are removed from clothing
products
2. Improve hydrophilicity
3. Improve absorbency
4. Prepare for the next process
5. To get uniform bleaching result
The scouring procedure is dependent on:

 The type of cotton which is using


 Color of cotton
 Cleanliness of cotton
 The twist & count of the cotton
 Construction of fabric

Actions in Cotton Scouring:


Actions involved in scouring are

1. Saponification
2. Emulsification
3. Detergenc

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Chemicals and their purposes in scouring:

1. Caustic soda (NaOH): Neutralizes acidic materials, saponify glycerides (waxes


and oils), solubilize silicates.

2. Sodium silicate: Penetrate and breakdown lignin in motes. These penetrant’s are


added, commonly, when fabrics have large contents of motes and other assorted
materials.

3. Wetting agent: Reduce surface tension and minimize interfacial tensions.

4. Detergents: Emulsify fats, oils and waxes; remove oil borne stains; suspend
materials after they have been removed

Bleaching:
Bleaching is the 3rd step of wet processing. The process by which the natural
color of a fiber can be removed and make the textile material pure white and
bright is called bleaching.

Objects of bleaching:

There are many objects as follows –


·        To remove the natural color.
·        To make the fabric permanent white and bright.
·        To increase the absorbency power of the cloth.
·        To increase dye affinity.
·        To ensure level dyeing property.
·        To make the fabric suitable for the next subsequent process

Description of the bleaching of cotton by hydrogen per-oxide:

H2O2 is an oxidizing agent which is used largely for cellulose fibre bleaching.
H2O2 is also used for protein fibre such as wool, silk-bleaching etc. In
H2O2 bleaching, H2O2 releases hydrogen ion (H+) and per hydroxyl ion (HO2-). Here,
PH level is maintained 10.7 – 10.9.

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Per hydroxyl ion is released for alkalinity of hydrogen per-oxide solution. This per
ion bleached the textile materials. H+ ion has no bleaching action. It maintains
PH level.

(HO2-) + Colored materials = Bleached materials + H+


Mercerization:
Mercerization is used for both pretreatment process and finishing process of fabric.
Commercial applications of mercerization are carried out to enhance the value of
the finished fabric for the consumer. Therefore it is mostly considered to be
a finisging process rather than a preparatory process, which is mainly carried out to
facilitate coloration processes. Mercerisation refers to the treatment of cotton yarns
or fabrics with caustic soda solution. It is not a fiber purification process, but it
does induce desirable changes in cotton yarn and fabric properties. The objective of
mercerising is to swell the cotton fibre, increasing its lustre, tensile strength (as
well as retain it after an easy-care finish), dimensional stability and dyeability (in
terms of uniformity and colour yield).

Cell — OH + NaOH ——> Cell — ONa+ + H2O


Mercerization improves the following properties of the cotton fabric.

1. Strength would be increased to 15-25%.


2. Enhanced luster. Greater affinity to water. 
3. Dyes and other chemical finishes.
4. Shrinkage control in both the direction of the fabric.
Fabric is padded with about 20-25% NaOH solution containing a wetting agent.
Fabric is passed over several cans to allow a doweling time of approximately one
minute. During this time, NaOH will penetrate the fibres and react with them. At
this stage the tension is applied lengthwise. The fabric is then placed on a “Stenter”
machine and is pulled to its desired dimensions.

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL CHANGES:

 Fibre volume increases after this process


 Moisture absorption becomes high (40%-50 %).
 Fabric length decreases (1%-2%).

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 Tensile strength increases.


 Luster is increased.
 Better dimensional stability
 Decrease in twist per unit length.
 Increase in dye-ability (25%).
 The effect of acids and oxidizing agents increases.
 Mercerized fiber is more resistant to light and weather.
 Fabric obtains more density and compact appearance.
 The lumen of fibre disappears

The Process:

Fabric enters from entry platter in mercerizing machine and enter into the
impregnator or wet mangle for wetting. Then fabric enters into the first saturator
after passing from 8-ton padder having pad pressure of 7-ton. Saturator contains
sodium hydroxide having concentration of 22 – 28 Baume at temperature of
35ºC. After first saturator fabric is squeezes by 10-ton pad roller with pad
pressure 6- ton and passes over 8 draw rollers or timing drums which give
tension to the fabric for the improvement of warp wise dimension of the fabric.
There is a tension meter which is used to adjust the tension of fabric over these
draw rollers. After passing through these draw rollers, fabric enters into the
second saturator having sodium hydroxide of concentration 28º Baume at
temperature of 30ºC. After saturator fabric again goes to the six timing/draw
rollers. There is a chiller at the back of m/c used to cool the sodium hydroxide.
Chiller is a shell and tube heat exchanger. In tubes brine solution is present and
in shell NaOH is present. There are gauges for temperature indication of brine.
For chilling purpose Freon 12 gas is used which cool down the temperature of
brine and brine cool down the temperature of sodium hydroxide. After
saturation from University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya

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University, Multan Internship Report - 75 - second saturator fabric moves from


10-ton padder roller with pad pressure 8-ton. Then fabric moves over a chain.
On the start of this chain feed mangle is present and its pressure is 2 MPa. The
purpose of chain is to control the width to fabric. For this purpose chain
adjusting rod with a meter is present by which we can adjust width of fabric.
Length of chain is 27 meters having 525 clips. First 12 meters of chain
functions to maintain the fabric dimension weft wise. The last part of chain
which is around 15 meters in length contains the solution of sodium hydroxide
of 2º Baume. Its purpose is to stabilize the warp and weft wise dimension of
fabric. In between the showers 5 vacuum suckers are present, which suck the
extra solution from the fabric and this sucked solution is dropped into 5 pits,
which are present underneath the chain. The motor pumps recycle the solution
of pits. At the start of the chain a sensor is present to check the selvedge of the
fabric to keep it on the chain if it is out, sensors close the chain to catch the
selvedge back . After chain, fabric passes over different rollers and enters into
the first washer. There are total 11 washers in a series. First 3 washers have
nearly the same pH around 11.2-11.4, and the pH of 4th washer is 10.9 the 5th
and 6th washers are neutralizes. Here, we neutralize NaOH with the help of
10% H2SO4, so the pH of thee washers fall down to 2 and then the fabric
moves to 7th and 8th washers, where pH of the fabric is maintained at 2 - 2.5
and then fabric passes from 9th and 10th washer, where it is neutralized with
water and its pH is 7-7.5. Now in last 11th washer, we finally neutralize the
fabric by 20% Neutra acid NVM which decreases pH of the fabric from 7.5 to
5.4, finally we rinse the fabric with normal water. After washers fabric goes to
dryers where it is dried by steam heated cylinders exactly same as that of Perble
range. After drying fabric is loaded on trolley by platter or batched on batcher
for Peaching. Now the fabric is ready to transfer to next depart.

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DYING
It is defined as under; The application of solid color to the textile material from dye
liquor, is called as dyeing.
OR
The process that produce chemical or physical changes in the substrates that the
reflection of light appears as colored, is called as dyeing.

SELECTION OF DYES:

1. First we have to know the customer’s requirements mentioned in the ‘Lab


Dips Request’ i.e. type of dyeing, fastness requirements and the light
sources. This information will help us to choose the dyes, e.g. a customer
want to dye the fabric in reactive dyes and require very good
light/washing fastness then we will select the proper dyes from the range
which will full fill the requirements.
2. 0 Usually the customers require light fastness between 3-4, Washing
fastness around 4 and crocking 3 to 5 from light to dark shades.
3. Another case when the customer not mentioned the type of dyes but only
the fastness requirements then the lab incharge will to select the dyes
according to the shade depth, dullness/brightness and which will fulfill
the fastness requirements, e.g. for light shades like Khaki, Light Grey,
lightpink etc. Vat dyes are first priority because their washing fastness is
very good and the light fastness is better.
4. . Light fastness of orange is better than red. Running behavior of orange
in production is better than red because red will create problems above 10
g/l. Red has also very poor crocking value.
5. Crocking of Reactive dyes better than Vat.
6. Light fastness is better in Vat. Light fastness is an issue in case of light
pink shade.
7. Rem. Navy RGB has very poor light fastness so avoid it to use.
8. In navy shades of Black B washing fastness is an issue.
9. We have to know the running behavior in production of every dye e.g.
Rem. Black B will create problem below 15 g/l recipe.
10. Remember avoid to select opposite dyes (different tones) like Red &
Turq. Blue, Red and Green, Red and Lemon Yellow.

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11. In Vat dyes secondary & tertiary dyes are preferred and to avoid primary
dyes e.g, we can use Brown in place of Red, Olive in place of Yellow and
Grey in place of Blue.
12. For navy shades avoid to use Rem. Black B in recipes below 15 g/l
because in small quantity its behavior in production is not good.
13. Rem. Navy RGB has poor light fastness so it is used conditionally.
14. If the customer’s requirement is to dye the fabric in Pigments then we
first develop 50% shade in reactive dyes and then apply pigment on the
remaining shade.
MAIN PARTS OF DYEING MACHINE:

1. Pad dryers Two pad dryers on dyeing floor are working and third pad
thermosol is under erection. If we stand in dyeing kitchen then on our left
hand side there is pad dry # 1 and on right hand side there is pad dry #2 pad
dryer consists of following parts. 1.
 Feeding section
 Pad mangle
 Wetting unit
 Thermex hot-flue
 Measuring and control unit (chamber atmosphere)
 Steam injection unit
 Outlet section

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Scray:

There is scray in front of pad dry # 2 and not in front of pad dry # 1 through
which we can get fabric in pilling manner in order to give enough time for
stitching of fabric. The capacity of the scray is about 400-600 meter depend
upon quality.
Cooling rollers

There are two cooling rollers and from scray, fabric flows from these cooling
rollers. The function of these rollers are,
1. Moderate the temperature of fabric, so that it will not raise the temperature of
trough.
2. Because the temperature of trough should not be raised or varied. As the
temperature of trough raised, if we are using reactive dyes, then it will may react
with OH- of water which should be avoid also, this exchange of heat will may
cause LCR problems .
Trough:

Line washing is done from dyeing kitchen up to the trough of pad dryer. Then
according to the lab dip recipe, the dye stuff is pumped into the rough of pad dryer.
But first we stitch the fabric to be died with the leading fabric and when the leading
fabric passed the trough of pad dryer we fill the trough with dyestuff up to 55 to 60
liter.
Line washing is some times done by not water or with 2% hydro and caustic.
Kusters Padder

padders are used to avoid the LCR problems i.e. shade difference in left, center and
right sides of fabric. Central pressure of padder is hydraulic pressure and left and
right side pressure of padder are pneumatic pressures. A graph is provided in the
panel which shows that what pressure should be adjusted at left and right sides of
padder with respect to central pressure. Here we have fixed the central pressure at 2
bar and then we adjust the left and right pressure according to requirement. If left or
right side of fabric shows more depth then we increase the pressure. If it shows
lighter depth then we decrease the pressure of that side of fabric. The kuster's
padder should be adjusted here in such away that pickup should be 65%.

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VTG

It consists of vertically placed guide roller. Their purpose is to give aeration to


fabric to some extent and to give reasonable penetration time of the dye into fabric.
Also these rollers are Teflon coated to avoid stains on the fabric due to rusting and
stickiness of chemicals. If these rollers are not placed in the flow of fabric and
directly sent to IR chamber, the dye will remain at the surface and will not be
present at the center of fabric. So, poor wash fastness will be resulted.
I.R Chambers

These are the predryers which are used to remove approximately 40% of water
from the fabric. The purpose of pre drying is to avoid the migration of dye stuff. I.R
have more penetration power than an ordinary dryer and can evaporate water
molecules from the inner core of fiber without coming out on surface. Thus in this
way evaporation of water is done from inner side of fabric without coming out on
the surface and thus die will remain inside the fiber. In I.R chamber gas is mixed
with air. Mixing is done by sucking air with the help of blower and then mixing it
with constant ratio.

Drying Chambers

There are three drying chambers. In each chamber there is a radiator in which
steam is flowing. Besides there is a blower which sucks air from the atmosphere
and circulates this air by centrifugal action in whole chamber. Therefore it will
result in heat transfer from steam in radiator to the air circulating in the chamber.
And the condensed steam is collected at the other side of chamber. In each chamber
there is a dancer for compensating the tension of the fabric. In 2nd and 3rd chamber
there is a special roller before the compensator, which is used to shutdown machine
if there is problem in the machine i.e. whether the compensator is not working
properly or tension is becoming out of order. There is a indicator instrument
attached to this roller and it will give signal to the panel when this roller change its
position and machine will shutdown. In 1st chamber, rollers are Teflon coated to
avoid sticking of chemicals to the rollers which will effect the fabric. Also PLEVA
is present in each chamber which shows %age humidity within the chamber on the
panel. There is a gauge on each dryer which is showing the balance of air inside the
chamber. If it is at 0 (neutral), it means air in upper and lower side is same. If
positive + , then it means air in upper side is more then lower side and if it is

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negative- it means air in lower side is more then air in upper portion. However,
here the neutral condition is desirable.

One more lever is present which is used to adjust the air to be exhausted from the
chamber. A filter is present on the bottom of chamber, which collects the fluff and
is time to time remove from chamber.
Cooling drums

If the fabric is not to be cured then it should be cooled down to at least room
temperature to get the fabric in the trolley. For this purpose, in these cooling drums,
cooling water or normal water is flowing which lower down the temperature of the
fabric. However, if fabric is to be cured then water is not circulated in these drums
because in curing hot fabric is required rather then cold fabric.
CURING MACHINE:

Following are the parts of curing machine


Inlet section
This section is used to enter the fabric to the machine, by means of guide rollers,
tension rollers.

Hot drums
Steam is directly insert inside the drums from one side of each drum. After hot the
drum condense out from other side. There are four hot drums. The purpose of hot

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drums is to hot the fabric so that when fabric inter in the hot chamber the uneven
dyeing may be occur.
Curing Chambers
There are two curing chambers. These chambers are use for the high temperature
dyes fix up specially for polyester. Polyester required a high temperature for pick
the dyes particles. Above 200c polyester molecules are convert in their vibrating
form so when they are vibrate dyes particles goes inside the polyester fibers so that
disperse dyes molecules have very small molecular size. These chambers are same
as drying chambers of pad dry machine but there are difference of heating system.
There is use thermo oil for heating purpose but the mechanism is same as pad dry.
Cooling drums
After drying chambers fabric is out in hot condition cooling drum are use to normal
the temperature of the fabric. There are four cooling drums of stainless steel. Water
is use to cool the drums by continuous passage of water. Water is enter from one
side and out from the other side.
Curing specification

FINISHING DEPARTMENT:
There are a lot of techniques to finish the fabric which depend on,
• Nature of the fabric
• Physical properties of the fabric
• End-use
• Special effect
• Chemical modification
PURPOSE OF FINISHING

The purposes of finishing are,

• Improve the appearance

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• Improve the feel


• Special properties (water proofing, flame proofing e.t.c.)
• Covering the faults of fabric
• Increase the weight of fabric
TYPES OF FINISHING

The finishing is divided mainly in two classes,


1. Mechanical finishing
2. Chemical finishing
1. Mechanical finishing
a. Temporary
1. Calendaring: Swizzing, Friction, Chasing, Schriner, Embossing, Felt
2. Beetling
b. Durable

1. Raising. Sueding or Peach Finishes


2. Chemical finishing
a) Temporary
1) For Handle and Appearance: Softening, Weighting, Stiffening, Lustering
(other than Mercerizing)
2) Special Effects: Water Repellence, Flame Retardancy, Mildew Proofing
b) Permanent
1. Crease Recovery, Silicone Softening
2 . Water Repellence, Flame Ratardancy, Mildew Proofing, Soil Release
Finishing is carried out at Nishat in different ways,
• After mercerization or bleaching (Peaching)
• After bleaching or mercerization (OBA)
• After dyeing (required finish)

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FUNCTION OF FINISHING DEPARTMENT

The functions of finishing department in Nishat are,


1) Equalize
2) Heat-Set
3) Finish
4) Topping
5) Curing
6) Peaching
7) Sanforizing

MACHINES USE FOR FINISHING

STENTER:

In Nishat there are five Stenter


PROCESS OF STENTER
Trough
Its purpose is to keep the chemicals so that when fabric passes through it, it picks
the chemicals present in it. Its level is adjusted on the control panel so that it keeps
the same amount of chemicals. When its level goes down, automatic valve starts
feeding the chemicals. When it starts going above the required level, this valve
stops feeding. Water jacket is present outside the trough. Chilled water from chiller
is circulated inside this jacket to keep it cool because when fabric enters in the
trough, it increases its temperature. And due to increased temperature, silicone
emulsion will be destroyed and silicone will return to its origin form. When it
happens, silicone will give spots of oil on fabric which are not removable. So we
have to cool down the trough.
Padder:
It is an Kusters padder present on Stenter-1. Its pressure of rying chambers centre,
left and right can be adjusted separately. Its purpose is to squeeze the fabric so that
65% pick up is obtained. In finishing it is adjusted just like nip and no special kind

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of work is being obtained from it. Pressure of centre is adjusted is by hydraulic


pressure and of sides is adjusted by pneumatic pressure. But Monfort padders are
present on Stenter-2, 3 in which the sides pressure is adjusted by pneumatic
pressure.

Mahlo
It consists of 7 rollers. 3 of them are banana rollers and 3 consists of steel rollers of
simple type. Banana rollers are used for bowing and other 3 rollers are used for
skewing. 4 small instruments are used for measuring the amount of skew and bow
in the fabric and then adjusting the skew and bow rollers automatically. These
instruments show reading on control panel and use the mechanism of light
transmittance and reflectance. They throw light on the fabric and
measure the amount of light reflected or transmitted. The mechanism of bowing or
skewing is that when pressure is applied on any part of the fabric, then that part
remains backward and the other part due to looseness goes forward and thus we can
get rid of bow or skew can be created in the fabric. Skew is the requirement of
some garments companies. Most often it is run on manual control and we enter the
required data hree rollers between the Mahlo and the Stenter facilitate to change
Stenter hain and fix the speed of machine so that it remains fix and don’t change
during processing. Amount of moisture is shown on the panel. T the flow rate of
fabric according to our consent. We can change the speed of motors of these rollers
to change the flow rate. It facilitates to get proper pinning of fabric.
Stenter chain:
Two types of Stenter are present. One Stenter has pins to hold the fabric and take it
through Stenter chambers. Other Stenter has chains to hold the fabric. On pin
system Stenter, fabric is pressed on these pins with the help of small roller fitted
with the motor and then pressing by brush like roller to press completely the fabric
on pins. A sensor is fitted which sense the presence of fabric. If fabric is not
present, it stops the machine immediately.
Total no. of chambers in stenter are eight. Temperature of every stenter is different
and can be controlled through control panel. . Every chamber has two motors. Half
part of chamber is run by one motor and the other half by other motor. These
motors circulates the heat inside the chamber. They are also called blowers. These
motors suck air from inside the chamber and then introduce this air in duck lining
to heat up the fabric. Two major exhaust are fitted to exhaust the moisturized gases.

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Fresh air can only enter in the Stenter chambers from entry and exit points of
fabric. A small instrument is fitted in every chamber which has a small rod present
just above the fabric to know the temperature of chamber. A Pleva is fitted in the
centre of Stenter to measure the humidity of air inside the chambers. Then the
efficiency of exhausts can be adjusted according to the humidity of air. For width
adjustment of Stenter, we have four points inside the chambers. Stenter chambers
are heated by thermoil. Thermoil exchanges its heat by using heat exchanger.
Thermoil moves inside the small cylinder like rods and heat up the cylinder. Air
moves through these cylinder and gets heated. Then it is circulated by the blower
inside the chamber. Speed of fabric in Stenter is so adjusted that dry fabric is
obtained. At the end of Stenter chambers, a blower is fitted which sucks the fresh
air and through it on the fabric coming out of Stenter chambers to cool down the
fabric. Three small rollers are present at the end of Stenter chain. These are
collectively called RMS (residual moisture sensor). It measures the amount of
moisture in the fabric and gives signal on the control panel. An emergency stop is
present at the end of Stenter chain. It consist of thread connecting with the sensor.
When we press this thread, machine is stopped. Here, width of Stenter chain can be
adjusted as well.

SANFORIZING:

The main purpose of Sanforizing is to shrink the fabric warp wise & weft wise
according to customer. It consists of following parts, Inlet Section It consists on the
tensioner plaiter and free guide rollers. In the inlet section most important water
showers jacket and water plate to wet the fabric for even the moisture. Steam
cylinder is use to heat the fabric so that moisture inside the fabric almost same for
better shrinkage. This steam cylinder has small holes for liberation of steam. This
can produce stain on the fabric. To avoid this a piece of fabric roll on this cylinder
so that steam can pass through this rolled fabric and can heat the fabric. Sleeve
Sleeve is the major portion of Sanforizing machine. It consists of a big rubber
mounted on two rollers. It is made of special kind of rubber. It was 68 cm in thick
when it was installed. As the time passes, it gets thinner and thinner and is used till
40 cm thick. Then it is replaced. Its surface is grinded and is intentionally made
because only in this form it can hold and stretch the fabric. For grinding, a special
kind of roller is supplied by the manufacturing company. This roller is attached
with the sleeve after every 5 lack meters to grind its surface. The central large roller
is internally heated with steam. This roller is very hot. Basically fabric is release on
the sleeve at this position dry cylinder pressed on fabric for shrink the fabric. The

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shrinkage can be increase or decrease by increase or decrease the attachment are on


the sleeve by adjusting between 0 to +20 or decrease at 0 to -20. Drying cylinder
(PAM DRUM) It consists of a large cylinder and two small cylinders. A blanket is
mounted on these cylinders. This blanket is made of wool. The purpose of blanket
is to hold the fabric and dry it. If it is not used, then it will not be possible to give
overflow of fabric from sleeve section to the drying section. This part is basically
for drying. Large cylinder is for drying of fabric and two small cylinder are used for
heating and drying of blanket. All these cylinders are internally heated with steam.
One special kind of roller is present at the end of this part. Its main purpose is to
keep the fabric in centre. Its one side is fix and other side is movable. Movable side
moves up and down according to the fabric position. Stamps can also be applied on
the fabric at the end of Sanforizing according to the customer requirement.
Cooling drums
At the end of drying part, three cooling drums are present. Their function is to cool
down the fabric. Water is circulated inside these drums to keep these drums cool.
Material flow in Sanforizing

These curing chambers are same as dyeing curing chambers but in these chambers
length between upper and lower rollers is greater. These chambers are used to
remove the polypropylene contamination. These are also use to fixation of special
kind of finishes that are applied at high temperature. However, blend of lycra
(polyurethane) can not be cured because lycra will be damaged at such a high
temperature. So polypropylene contamination can not removed by curing from
lycra blends. It consists of two chambers. The heating chamber is same as dyeing
curing chambers. These chambers are heated by thermoil. Heat exchanger is
present inside these chambers. Air is passed through this heat exchanger and
increase the inside temperature of chambers. Motors are used for circulation of air
inside these chambers. Air is fall on the fabric by ducks lining is present above the
upper rollers and below the lower rollers. Maximum temperature of 230 is achieved
by the curing. Two dancers are present in each chamber. Polypropylene
contamination is removed at temperature of 210o C is provided for 3 minutes. Thus
all polypropylene contamination is sublimed and fabric becomes free from
polypropylene contamination.

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Outlet section:
after curing fabric is collect in the trolley under plaiter. Fabric is pull by draw
roller.
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
Quality assurance is a system of check & balance for the monitoring of the
processes applied on the fabric in our processing unit. They act like an independent
body.

QUALITY ASSURANCE:

This is responsible for monitoring the fabric on floor during different processes.
QA inspectors are independent and standing on every machine and look after the
process parameters, faults on the fabric etc.
Their main works are
 Monitoring the processes apply on the fabric from grey to folding
department.
 Check out the faults may arise on the fabric during any process
 Take samples for Technical Lab for testing after every process this is also
called on line testing.
 If the inspector noted any problem in process first he informed the shift
engineer of the concerned department and then informed his senior staff.
 In case of major faults, technical problem or any other mishap then the
inspector made a written report and forward to his manager.
ON-LINE TESTING:

On-Line testing mean to check out the results of the process on the fabric by
applying the counter tests in technical lab. For this QA inspectors are monitoring
every process and at the end of every process a sample is delivered to the technical
lab to apply recommended tests. The results are issued by the lab on PMS
(Production Management System). If the tests are OK then the fabric is allowed to
go to the next department otherwise fabric is retreated.

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QA Inspection report

DYEING LAB

Equipments in dyeing laboratory

The first and foremost place where a shade can be prepared and examined against
standards. Dyeing lab is the place where we develop recipies for different
color/shades as per customer provided sample. Lab shade is developed on such

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parameters that it can easily be adopted for bulk production on dying floor.
Actually dying lab acts as a foundation for bulk production because selection of
dyes according to the customer requirements and matching of the shade under
recommended light sources is primarily carried out here to facilitate the bulk
production. This lab is well equipped by dye application padder, curing machine,
chemical pad steam for reactive and vat dyes separately. In lab the most important
equipments are Data Color, Auto Lab Dispenser and auto Lab Solution Maker.
PURPOSE OF DYEING LAB

Following are some important purposes of dying lab.


1) To make lab dips as per requirements of customer.
2) To analyze new dye stuff i.e. its tone, light and color fastness etc.
3) To calculate the cost of every shade on any specific fabric
. 4) To maintain Lab/ Dying production record customer and shade wise.
5) To dye the fabric on small scale and observes its hue and matching before bulk
production on dyeing floor.
6) To prepare solution of different dyes for Auto Lab Dispenser.
7) matching the color and shade
8) developing the recipies for lab scale and bulk dyeing

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