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M02 Internal & External Plastering Surfaces and Edges
M02 Internal & External Plastering Surfaces and Edges
SHORT TERM
Based on March 2022, Curriculum Version I
Module Title: - Applying Internal & External Plastering Surfaces and Edges
Module code: EIS FCW2 M02 1122
Nominal duration: 60Hour
Ministry of Labor and Skills and Jigjiga polytechnic college wish to extend thanks and appreciation to the
many representatives of TVET instructors and respective industry experts who donated their time and
expertise to the development of this Teaching, Training and Learning Materials (TTLM).
This module is designed to meet the industry requirement under the finishing construction work
occupational standard, particularly for the unit of competency: Applying Internal & External Plastering
Surfaces and Edges
Plastering is the process of covering rough walls and uneven surfaces in the construction of houses and other
structures with a plastic material, called plaster, which is a mixture of lime or cement concrete and sand along
with the required quantity of water.
Process of Internal & External plastering work: -
Falling objects can cause injury to your head, body and feet, and to someone working in the area below
you, or members of the public passing close to the site. Make sure no debris could fall from height and
place objects in a safe place. Use a suitable Shute for materials going into a skip.
The measurement of quantities involves measuring of lengths, calculations of areas, volumes, or counting the
no of pieces depending on the nature of work and items used.
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Linear measurement
Linear measurements are taken in perimeter computation. To calculate the area of sanding plaster plastering
surface and edge for both external and internal walls the perimeter of the building has to be computed first.
L1
L2 0.5 m
Example 2 calculates the perimeter of the following figure using different methods.
0.3 m
6m
Solutions
1. perimeter = 2 (9) + 2 (5.4) + 2 (1.5) = 31.8 m
2. perimeter = 8.70 + 2 (5.7) + 2 (1.5) + 2(2.30) + 4.1 = 31.8 m
3. perimeter = 2 (9+ 6) + 2 (1.5) - 4 (0.3) = 31.8 m
4. perimeter = 2 (8.4 +5.4) + 2 (1.5) + 4 (0.3) = 31.8 m
Area measurement
In works like plaster finishing a real measurement is required. While measuring the area of the irregular plot
the irregular area is broken into a number off regular figures that best describe the irregular plot and the areas
of the regular figures is computed and summed to give the area of the irregular one.
B. General Formula for plastering
Then
= 479Kgs Y
= 0.25 m3 Y
= 1855Kgs Y
= 1855/1840 m3 Y
= 368Kgs W
= 0.26 m3 W
= 1932Kgs W
= 1932/1840 m3 W
= 1.05 m3 W
= 147Kgs U
= 0.105 m3 U
= 399Kgs U
= 0.21 m3 U
iii. Sand = 9/12x Um3 x 1840Kg/ m3x 1.20 shrinkage x 1.05 Wastage
= 1739Kgs U
= 1739/1840 m3 U
= 0.95 m3 U
Proportion 5mm thick with 15% wastage mortar = 10mm thick with 15% 12mm thick with 15%
Of 3 3 3
0.0575m wastage mortar = 0.115m wastage mortar = 0.138m
Lime Mortar
Lime Sand Lime Sand Lime Sand
(Kgs) 3 (Kgs) 3 (Kgs) 3
(m ) (m ) (m )
1:2 45.88 0.048 91.77 0.097 110.12 0.116
1:3 25.36 0.054 50.72 0.109 69.86 0.130
1:4 27.54 0.058 55.09 0.116 66.10 0.139
3 2
1) Mortar = 0.06m /10m
3 2
1) Mortar = 0.06m /10m
When plastering walls, getting the undercoat plaster layer right is an important part of the process. This will
be the base onto which you will apply the finishing plaster and needs to properly applied and sound or all the
hard work you put into finishing the wall will be a waste of time. This guide will take you through the
process of applying undercoat plaster on the average-sized domestic wall step-by-step.
An internal base coat plaster used to build up a suitable thickness of plaster before skim finishing with a
Thistle skim finish plaster. Suitable for use on a wide range of internal backgrounds, including brick,
blockwork and most smooth or low-suction backgrounds.
What’s the Difference Between Plastering and Skimming?
There are different kinds of plasters that plasterers must understand how to use:
Cement plaster: Made from cement, sand and water and generally used on walls where masonry
work has been done
1.6.2. Skimming
Skimming is the name provided to a plastering method where a wall is plastered with a layer of thin coat. It
is usually applied to an existing plaster to smooth the surface area The white layer of lime which is used to
rough cement is called a skim coat.
The plasterer uses various methods to make the surface area smooth, and it might depend on the tradesman’s
proficiency. So overall, skimming is a subset of plastering. They are both used to decorate structures and
increase the durability of a wall, but skimming is done to update an old building whereas plastering is done
to a new one. Another difference between skim and plaster is that plaster surface areas are constantly rough
whereas a skimmed surface area is smooth.
They are both used to decorate structures and increase the durability of a wall, but skimming is done to
update an old building whereas plastering is done to a new one. Another difference between skim and plaster
is that plaster surface areas are constantly rough whereas a skimmed surface area is smooth.
1.6.3. Beads
Cement rendering is the application of a premixed layer of sand and cement to brick, concrete, stone, or mud
brick. It is often textured, colored, or painted after application. It is generally used on exterior walls but can
be used to feature an interior wall.
Check the wall to make sure that there is no sign of damp or mold. If there is, this should be treated before
you start to plaster.
Applying Undercoat Plaster
Applying undercoat plaster evenly over a large area can be difficult so it is usually a good idea to divide the
wall up into sections using battens nailed to the block or brickwork. As long as the battens are all the same
thickness, they can also be used as a guide for the plaster depth.
Self-check (Unit one)
1. ------- an unplanned, non-controlled, and an undesirable event or a sudden mishap which interrupts
an activity or a function.
A. Accident B. Injury
5. -------is the name provided to a plastering method where a wall is plastered with a layer of thin coat.
A. Skimming C. Coating
B. Beading D. All
Unit two: Coat internal and external walls, ceilings, angles, reveals and joints
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content coverage
and topics:
Tools and materials
Type of coating plasterwork to walls and ceilings
Internal and external plaster coat angles, reveals and expansion joints
Coat internal, external angle and joints
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the coverage. Specifically, upon
completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
select and identify tools and materials
Apply One-, two- and three-coat plasterwork to walls and ceilings are finishing (vertical,
horizontal, inclined and curved) to solid backgrounds and board backgrounds
Apply Internal and external angles, reveals and expansion joints to contractor’s working
B. Lime
Building lime is produced by burning a naturally occurring form of calcium carbonate (such as limestone,
chalk or sea shells) to form quicklime by driving off carbon dioxide. This is done using a kiln and the
process was once commonplace across Scotland. Currently building lime is supplied in bag form. The
quicklime is mixed with water (this can produce a vigorous reaction which generates heat) to form lime
putty in a process known as slaking. This is a skilled procedure requiring specialist training.
To differentiate between how lime mortars work, they can be classified as either non-hydraulic or hydraulic.
Non-hydraulic lime comes in two forms – a dry powder or putty. Lime putty is most commonly used for
internal plastering, and the dry powder (more commonly known as builder’s lime) is used as an additive to
cement mortars to improve workability.
Hydraulic lime is produced from a limestone which contains clay-based minerals. Hydraulic lime is
available as a dry powder. It is commonly used for external work as it can withstand more aggressive
conditions on buildings.
C. Sand
Sand is by far the major constituent of plaster and has a significant influence on its performance and material
cost.
In Ethiopian, natural sands i.e. pit, river and dune sands, are almost invariably used. An important
requirement is that sand should be free of organic matter such as roots, seeds, twigs and humus. This is an
absolutely essential requirement in the case of white or pigmented plasters.
The use of ash as aggregate is also not recommended unless the ash has been thoroughly tested and proven
to be sound.
A. Clay content
B. Grading
C. Maximum particle size
D. Particle shape
A. Clay content
Only a small proportion of clay can be tolerated in sand used in plaster. Clay normally causes a high water
requirement and high drying shrinkage.
B. Grading
Ideally, the sand should have a continuous grading, from dust up to the largest particles. The fractions
passing the 0.150mm and 0.075mm sieves* (“fines”) are important because they significantly influence the
water requirement, workability and water retentively of the mix *Such sieves are expensive and normally
Increasing these fractions results in increased water requirement (with consequent lower strength and higher
shrinkage), but improved workability and water retentively. The optimum fines content is therefore a
compromise between these properties. For plasters, a sand lacking in fines may be used with hydrated
builder’s lime, mortar plasticizer, or masonry cement, or it may be blended with a fine filler sand.
Sand with excessive fines may be improved by washing or by blending with suitable coarser sand. The
coarser sand could be crusher sand provided that the resulting plaster is suitable for the application, and it
gives acceptable results.
For conventional smooth plaster, all the sand should pass through a sieve with 2.36mm openings. For
coarsely textured decorative work, the corresponding sieve size is 4.75 mm. Oversize particles (and lumps)
should be removed by sieving.
D. Particle shape
Ideally, for good workability, the particle shape should be nicely rounded and the particle surface texture
should be smooth.
The particle shape of natural sands tends to be rounded due to weathering whereas that of crusher sands
tends to be angular or flaky. Some river sands, however, contain newly weathered particles with a rough
surface texture and angular particle shape. These particles are normally in the coarser fraction of the sand
and should be screened out.
D. Chemical Admixtures
Chemical admixtures are sometimes used in plaster mixes to improve workability and water retentively. The
use of all admixtures must be properly controlled in order to avoid adverse consequences.
The most commonly used admixtures are so-called “mortar plasticizers” which are in fact air-entraining
agents. On no account should they be used with masonry cements.
Bonding aids (or bonding liquids) are often used in plaster mixes, and in spatter dash for bonding plasters to
their substrates. These must be used strictly in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.
They can be very effective in improving bond but only if the substrate has been properly prepared. By no
means are they a substitute for a good surface preparation and workmanship.
They also impart good workability to the mix but overdosing can lead to low strength.
E. Water
Water fit for drinking is generally suitable for making mortar. Substances in water that, if present in water
that, if presenting large amounts, may be harmful are: salt, oil, industrial wastes, alkalis, sulphates, Organic,
Matter, silt sewage etc.
Water-used in mortar mixes has two functions. The first is to react chemically with the cement which will
finding set and harden, and the second function is to lubricate all other materials and make the mortar
workable.
F. Plastering reinforcement
I. Lath
II. bead
I. Lathing: lath is adopted to provide foundation for plastering work. Laths are also providing for
plastering thin partition walls and for plastering ceilings
Metal Lath
Metal lath is perhaps the most versatile of all plaster bases. Essentially a metal screen, the bond is created by
keys formed by plaster forced through the openings. As the plaster hardens, it becomes rigidly interlocked
with the metal lath.
Diamonds mesh
The terms “diamond mesh” and “expanded metal” refer to the same type of lath. It is manufactured by first cutting
staggered slits in a sheet and then expanding or stretching the sheet to form the screen openings. The standard
diamond mesh lath has a mesh size of 0.8cm by 1.5cm. Lath is made in sheets of 68.6cm by 2.44m and is packed
10 sheets to a bundle (16.7square meters). Diamond mesh lath is also made in a large mesh.
This lath may be nailed to smooth concrete or masonry surfaces. It is widely used when re-plastering old walls
and ceilings when the removal of the old plaster is not desired. Another lath form is paper-backed where the lath
has a waterproof or Kraft paper glued to the back of the sheet. The paper acts as a moisture barrier and plaster
saver.
Fig.2.1.1.diamond mash
Expanded rib
Expanded rib lath (fig. 7-4) is like diamond mesh lath except that various size ribs are formed in the lath to
stiffen it. Ribs run lengthwise of the lath and are made for plastering use in 0.32, 0.95, and 1.9cm rib height.
The sheet sizes are 68.6cm to 2.44m in width, and 12.7, 25.4, and 3.66m lengths for the 1.9cm rib lath.
Fig.2.1.2.Expanded rib
Wire mesh
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Woven wire lath (fig. 7-4) is made of galvanized wire of various gauges woven or twisted together to form
either squares or hexagons. It is commonly used as a stucco mesh where it is placed over tar paper on open-
stud construction or over various sheathing.
II. Bead
Plasterers’ beads have become an indispensable part of plastering operations. Use of the appropriate beads
greatly reduces the time taken in forming sharp corner joints, ends stops and other details. Moreover, they
offer protection and reinforcement to vulnerable plaster edges.
Beads should be fixed using plaster or render dabs or a suitable mechanical fixing at a maximum of
600mm canters
Beads may be wire tied to the face of metal lathing backgrounds
Use tin snips or shears to cut to size
When jointing angle beads use a dowel inserted in the nose to ensure continuity and alignment
Avoid damage to beads when towelling plaster or render
Stainless steel beads are specifically designed for cement-based renders and should not be used with
gypsum-based plasters unless they are specified with an approved protective finish
Epoxy/polyester coated galvanized steel beads, with PVC nosing, are designed for external use only in
sheltered or moderate environments. Similar usage restrictions also apply to the Expamet 570 Render
Stop.
Joints in Plaster Over Building Movement Control Joints:
Method 1
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Fix one stop bead down the side of the building movement joint, levelling with the timber grounds.
When this bead is set, fix the second bead into position using timber inserts to control the required gap. Also
levelling to the timber grounds.
When both beads are set, remove timber inserts and complete the plastering. Fill the gap with flexible
sealant.
Method 2
Plaster stop beads used with insert to make a bead for building movement control joint. Use timber batten
wired to beads to set up gap width. On removal of the timber batten flexible sealant can be used as required.
Width of gap determined by the flexible nature of sealant and expected masonry movement. Metal bead for
internal use only
The colors shown on this page are representative of the actual colour and will vary slightly to the product
due to the printing process.
Movement bead
Used where the underlying substrate changes, or where minor movement in the structure beneath the render
is expected. Movement beads can also be used where changes in render colour are specified. Movement
beads should NOT be used over structural movement joints (see page 4, Joints in Plaster over Building
Movement Control Joints).
Fig.2.1.4.Movement bead
Angle bead
2.2.1. Introduction
Plastering is the process of covering rough surface of walls, columns,ceilings and other building components
with thin coat of plastic mortars toform a smooth durable surface.
The coating of plastic materials (i.e. mortar) is termed as plaster.
Purpose of Plastering:
1. Plastering is done to achieve the following purpose
2. To protect the external surface against penetration of rain water and other atmospheric agencies.
3. To give the smooth surface in which dust and dirt cannot lodge.
4. To give decorative effect.
5. Conceals inferior quality materials and defective workmanship,
6. To protect surface against varmint.
Surface properties required for successful plastering
The surface to be plastered should be accurately positioned overall andzones should not deviate excessively fr
om a plane (or curved) surface.Ideally, the substrate should be rough; absorbent to a limited extent; strongand
clean, i.e. free from any film, such as dust, oil or paint that could impairbond between plaster and substrate.
The more accurate the substrate the easier it is to meet these requirements.
Roughness improves adhesion by providing a positive “key” for plaster togrip.
Absorption removes the water film, between substrate and plasterthat would tend to weaken adhesion.
Excessive absorption will however dry out the plaster.The strength of the substrate material should be greate
r than,or equal to, that of the hardened plaster.Before any plastering commences, all chases should be comple
ted and allelectrical and plumbing conduits, boxes, etc, should be fixed in position.
Techniques of preparing surfaces
I. Accuracy
In a new work, surface preparation starts with accurate setting out andconstruction of walls and soffits
The aim should be to provide a surface that can be plastered to therequired lines and levels by applying a coa
t (or coats) of uniform thickness. Excessively thick plaster or plaster of uneven thickness should not be relied
II. Strength
For new work, masonry units strong enough to survive handling andtransport prior to being built in should be
strong enough to hold plaster. Similarly, in situ concrete should have ample strength. In some
cases, it is necessary to plaster existing walls of soft clay brick.
III. Roughness
Background surfaces should ideally be at least as rough as coarse sandpaper or rough-sawn timber.
Surface roughness can be achieved in one of the following ways:
Using formwork with a rough surface, e.g. sawn timber, for substrate concrete
Stripping formwork early and wire brushing concrete
Hacking
Abrasive blasting (e.g. sand blasting)
Raking out mortar joints in masonry substrates to provide a key.
A depth of about 10 mm is normally adequate.
Applying a spatter dash layer
Spatter dash is a mixture of one part of cement to one and a half parts ofcoarse sand with enough water for a
sluggishly pourable consistence.
IV. Cleanliness
Surfaces must be free of loose material, such as dust, and films that caninterfere with bonding, such as curin
g compounds.
Substrate surfaces may be cleaned by:
Water jetting
Blowing with (oil-free) compressed air
Vacuum cleaning
Brushing
Solvents should not be used to remove films formed by curing compounds.(Such films must be removed by
mechanical means.)
Category B. Surfaces should not require any treatment to control suction.
Category C. Surfaces should be wetted thoroughly for at least one hour andthen allowed to become saturate
d surface dry before the plaster is applied.
First coat: has to provide sufficient bonding. Stipple or spatter dash can be used on all
backgrounds, but especially on impervious and smooth background. Leave these coats rough to
provide a key.
Second coat: To be applied two days (or more, depending on weather conditions) after
completion of first coat. Its strength should be less than the first coat.
Third Coating: Apply a nice, even coat, working perpendicular to the wall. Straighten it all up
in clean strokes. Keep your body horizontal to the wall while you work vertically, up and down
across the ceiling. Try to move in a uniform manner so that you don’t miss any areas
A. Lime plaster:
After preparing the back ground, lime plastering can be applied in three or two coats.
Three coat plaster:
a) Application of rendering coat or scratch coat
The mortar is forcibly applied with mason’s trowel and pressed well in to the joints and
over the surface.
The thickness of coats should be such as to cover all inequalities of the surface. The
normal thickness is 12mm.
This surface is allowed to slightly harden and then scratched crisscross with the edge of
trowel. Then, the surface is allowed to set for at least 7 days.
Once the plaster starts to stiffen It should be struck off to a plane (or curved) surface using a light
striker board. Material removed in this way should be discarded.
If plaster is to be applied in more than one coat, the undercoat(s) should be scored with roughly
parallel lines about 20 mm apart and 5 mm deep. The purpose of scoring is two-fold; to provide a
key for the next coat and to distribute cracking so that it is less noticeable.
For the final coat, use a wood float to remove ridges made by the striker board. At the same time
fill in any depressions and float flush with the surrounding plaster.
If a very smooth texture is required, a steel trowel may be used on the surface. Very smooth
surfaces are, however, not generally recommended because they tend to craze and show
imperfections.
Various decorative finishes are also possible. Techniques include brushing, flicking plaster onto
the surface and lightly floating, etc.
In the special case of soft burnt clay brickwork, plaster should be applied as follows:
If mesh reinforcement or metal lathing is to be used, nail it to the wall using galvanized nails
driven through the spatter dash coat and use spacers to keep it away from the wall. Apply the first
coat of plaster again
This first coat is used to achieve a plane surface. (In some cases it is necessary to use two coats to
achieve this).
It must be well scratched, cured for at least two days and allowed to dry.
The scratching, followed by the drying period, distributes shrinkage cracks.
Apply the final coat of plaster, using the same mix or preferably a slightly leaner mix. Striking off
and finishing are done as described previously.
Preparation
1. Brush down the background to remove all loose materials and dust etc. to give a good sound
background.
2. Remove all mortar snots from joints, internal and external angles.
3. Make a key, if needed to the background.
4. Test the background for suction (splash some water on the surface and see how quickly it gets
sucked into the background).
5. Treat if necessary.
6. Place drop boards at bottom of wall to catch any material that is dropped. This can then be re
used.
7. Fix any timber wall and sole plates as necessary. This stops the plaster cracking and falling off
the wood.
8. Fix any angle beads that are required.
9. Set up the spot board and stand.
Method of working
BROAD SCREEDS.
Use on small areas.
Does not give the highest standard of work but better than freehand.
Apply screed to corner of wall and rule off.
Keep depth of material to no more than 11mm.
Place another vertical screed in other corner and rule off.
Fig.2.1. screed
DOT AND SCREED
Can be used on long or high walls.
Use if the finished work has to be absolutely plumb.
Gives the highest standard for tolerance purposes
Fig.2.2. screed
1. Place a dot of material near an internal angle, place a lath in the dot.
Dot should be about 300mm away from adjoining wall.
2. Place a second dot at the bottom of the wall, place a lath into the dot.
Dots should be about 2.5m apart.
3. Plumb in the two dots using a floating rule.
4. Either tap in or bring the wood out until the two dots are in line
Expansion joints are incorporated in a building to allow movement in the structure which
the plasterboard is fixed to. Plasterboard surfaces should be isolated from structural
elements by installing
Expansion Joints when; Plaster surface abuts any structural element or different wall
type.
Expansion joints are incorporated in a building to allow movement in the structure which
the plasterboard is fixed to. Plasterboard surfaces should be isolated from structural
elements by installing Expansion Joints when;
Applying plaster to walls may seem like a daunting task, but you will have seen from earlier
articles that, providing the right techniques are practised and used, professional-quality finishes
can be quite easily obtained on both exposed brick and plasterboard surfaces.
In these earlier articles, plastering was confined to flat, uninterrupted surfaces, but, in practice
there will usually be a certain amount of finishing off needed at internal and external corners, and
around door and window openings. You will need to learn a few more techniques to deal with
these, although the method of applying the plaster, and the tools for doing so, are basically the
same as those detailed previously with a few exceptions.
You are likely to meet two types of internal angle when plastering. The first is where your newly-
plastered wall meets an existing hard plaster surface on the adjacent wall, and the second is where
both adjacent walls are being plastered simultaneously.
Where you have a hard surface to work to. Apply your floating coat to the wall in the normal
manner. Then rule the plaster outwards from the corner, using the wooden rules vertically instead
of horizontally. Key the plaster well with a devilling float and then cut out the internal angle. This
is done by laying the trowel flat against the finished surface so that it is at an angle of 30 to 40° to
the vertical and then moving it into the corner until the tip of the toe cuts into the fresh plaster.
Move the trowel up and down the angle and then repeat the procedure with the trowel flat against
the floated surface and its tip against the hard plaster. This will cut out the corner cleanly. Leave it
to harden.
Although it is possible to finish off external corners freehand, considerable skill would be needed;
for the do-it-yourself there are two simple methods which will produce successful results without
too much trouble. Probably the easiest of these is to use a metal angle bead, which has the added
advantages of allowing simultaneous plastering of both walls and providing an extremely durable
corner. The other method is to use a timber rule to form first one side of the angle and then the
other.
The metal angle bead will provide a true, straight arras that will not chip. It comprises a hollow
bead, flanked by two bands of perforated or expanded metal lath. Two versions are available: one
that will take the full thickness of a floating and finishing coat of plaster, and another that is
shallower for use with plasterboard. The latter is called a ‘thin coat’ bead.
The narrow strips of wall at door and window openings, which are normally at right angles to the
main wall surfaces, are known as reveals. They may also be found at the sides of a chimney breast
or on a plain pier.
Actually forming the corner in this is straightforward, using the methods described previously.
However, there are two points which require special attention. These are the depth of the reveals
and the thickness of plaster, or ‘margin’, at the frame or back wall. It is essential that the depth of
the reveal is the same all the way round the opening and that the plaster is the same thickness
across the reveal. This will ensure that a uniform amount of frame remains visible.
Trowelling internal plaster corners is a great plastering skill to learn. It’s important to know if you
want to plaster a room yourself. We’ll teach you how to fill and reinforce the gaps. You’ll also
learn how to give the plaster a smooth finish and get it ready for painting.
Expansion joint systems are used to bridge the gap and restore building assembly functions while
accommodating expected movements.
The term “movement joint” has been widely adopted in preference to “expansion joint” as it more
appropriately encompasses the fact that building movement results in both compression and
expansion of the material installed.
For example, when a structure heats up, the building materials from which it is built expand. This
causes the “expansion joint” to close down, thereby compressing the expansion joint system
installed in the gap.
In an effort to sculpture the mass of a building in an unrestricted manner, designers in the recent
past eliminated as many joints as they possibly could. Today this design error is obvious:
unsightly cracking of both exterior and interior surfaces constructed of cementitious products.
An expansion joints with expanded webbing abutting the joint ensures secure embedment and
gives the installer the option of using either wire ties or nails to secure the joint to the basic
supporting frame. A return lip eliminates shrinkage separation between the surface material and
the joint.
Plastering Corners
Any wall that has an external corner needs to have an angle bead fixed in place before plastering
can commence. If you have a wall with no external corners, then have a go at plastering this one
first.
Then when you have got to grips with the basics the angle bead will be fairly straightforward.
Self-check (unit one)
Part 1: choose the best answer
A. Mixing
B. Batching
C. Measuring
D. All
Part 2: write short answer
1. Mention and explain the types of metal lath?
2. List type of plastering coats and their purpose?
3. List and describe the techniques of preparing surfaces?
4. Describe types of Mortars for plastering?
5. How to testing of plaster bases?
Operation sheet 1: applying internal and external plastering and edge
Fig.2.1. screed
Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the
following tasks within 8hours.
Task 1: Applying internal and external plastering and edge
Reference
Barricading and Signage Document Number – OHS-PROC-134
Corrosion of Steel in Concrete: Understanding, Investigation and Repair, Taylor &
Francis, New York, NY, USA, 2nd edition, 2007.
BUILDING CONSTRUCTION HANDBOOK Tenth edition Roy Chudley and Roger
Greeno
BUILDING CONSTRUCTION HANDBOOK Seventh Edition R. Chudley MCIOB and
R. Greeno BA (Hons) FCIOB FIPHE FRSA
Construction Materials Third Edition Edited by J.M. Illston and P.L.J. Domone
Building construction (part 1 by Getachew Yimer)
Building construction (by Dr B.C.Punmia)
Building construction (by Sushil Kumar)
Text book of Building construction (by Abebe Dinku)