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Amilcar Vargas
To cite this article: Amilcar Vargas (2018): The tourism and local development in world heritage
context. The case of the Mayan site of Palenque, Mexico, International Journal of Heritage Studies,
DOI: 10.1080/13527258.2018.1428670
Article views: 38
Introduction
Social pressure on heritage conservation
The staggering rise of tourism in the second half of the twentieth century has been seen by many
countries as a chance to improve quality of life of local communities, especially in less-developed
countries (Hampton 2005). Within this global phenomenon, it has been proposed that the inscription
of sites in the World Heritage list has the potential to be a contributing factor to an increase in visitor
numbers, owing to a greater visibility and international prestige (Frey and Steiner 2011). However,
there is no consensus about this and neither is there an agreement of the positive effects of tourism
on local development (Huang, Tsaur, and Yang 2012; Marcotte and Bourdeau 2012; Wang et al. 2015).
Nevertheless, some projects have indeed managed to reduce poverty and inequality creating in this
way better conditions for society through tourism due to a related significant raise in jobs and income
in local families. Such projects are considered good practice for tourism management and local devel-
opment (Landorf 2009; Litka 2013; Masís 2015). This article will contribute to the discussion about
the value of tourism to induce local development, analysing the case in Mexico of the ‘archaeological
monuments zone known as Palenque’ (México 1993) (official local name), inscribed in the UNESCO
World Heritage list as the Pre-Hispanic City and National Park of Palenque (hereinafter ‘Palenque’).
Palenque is a Mayan archaeological site in the north-west of the municipality of the same name in
the Federal State of Chiapas, south-eastern Mexico (Figure 1). It was inscribed on the World Heritage
list in 1987 with a protected area of 1772 ha (UNESCO 1987, para. 9. A). The site is officially managed by
two federal institutions, the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH, Instituto Nacional
de Antropología e Historia) and the National Commission of Natural Protected Areas (CONANP,
Comisión Nacional de Áreas Naturales Protegidas). As of 2010 the municipality of Palenque covered
an area of 2897 km2, with 110,918 inhabitants distributed among 694 localities (SEDESOL 2013a).
Fifty-four percentages of them are Indigenous language speakers (CDI 2012), most of them bilingual
with Spanish. The Mayan Indigenous peoples present at Palenque are mainly Chol and Tzeltal, with
a minority presence of the Lacandon people, all of which are members of the Maya linguistic family
(INALI 2009). Official figures from the federal government show that 82% of the population in the
Palenque municipal territory live in poverty, 38% in extreme poverty and 43% in moderate poverty,
while only 3.4% are considered not poor or vulnerable (SEDESOL 2013b). For this study, I have
included two localities that are economically and geographically closely connected to the archaeological
site, but are outside the official boundaries of the protected area. They are located roughly 3 km south
of the public visiting area and accessible by a 10-kilometre dirt road: El Naranjo (788 inhabitants, 97%
Indigenous Chol) and Adolfo López Mateos (258 inhabitants, 98% Indigenous Tzeltal) (CDI 2012).
The underprivileged social conditions, poverty and lack of job opportunities that the statistics high-
light were confirmed during my fieldwork, while also identifying the potential of heritage to create
economic wealth that would benefit local population.
The fieldwork in Palenque at the basis of this study took place during two seasons, August 2014 and
November 2016. My key partner in the fieldwork was Danny Pech, a teacher at the Technical Secondary
School Number 10 in the present-day town of Palenque (Figure 1). Mr. Pech greatly assisted me to
access to informants in a very complex and adverse context (for an analysis of the problems facing
Figure 1. Location of the Palenque World Heritage site and the villages included in the study.
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF HERITAGE STUDIES 3
anthropologists/archaeologists see Castañeda 1996). My role as Ph.D. student was also helpful, as they
considered me as more neutral than the official heritage representatives they deal with. In addition,
my earlier knowledge of the Palenque region was useful, as well as my previous work experience as a
former federal employee for the INAH in archaeological management affairs from 2008 to 2009, and as
a collaborator for the Ministry of Social Development in complex Indigenous communities in Oaxaca,
Mexico from 2011 to 2012. The experience gathered during my years in management helped me to
navigate around potential problems in the fieldwork at the basis of this article. Nevertheless, among
the difficulties during this research I would highlight that I found that the access for Indigenous com-
munities was partly hindered by their lack of confidence towards people outside their own group and
the reluctance of some interviewees to be tape-recorded. These difficulties were solved by approaching
local leaders in their requested terms and conditions and participating in local community assemblies
to explain my research aims, answering questions and solving their worries and concerns. Writing
notes replaced tape-recording when necessary.
During fieldwork, once the initial communication problems were overcome, I managed to hold
discussions with a total of 37 individuals comprising the official managers of the Palenque archaeo-
logical and natural site, representatives of the Indigenous localities, tourist guides, local government
authorities, handicraft sellers and local teachers. All of them were informed of the aims of the research,
its outcomes and relevance for the site’s management. For ethical considerations, fieldwork was con-
ducted in a respectful relationship with local people and followed national laws and local traditions
for conducting this research. No conflict of interest was found during the process.
The impact of tourism on local economies is a matter of debate, particularly in relation to its social
effects and environmental sustainability and especially in traditional and Indigenous communities
(Walker 2005; Keitumetse and Nthoi 2009). UNESCO has shown an awareness of these issues and
has encouraged State Parties to develop policies to manage tourism appropriately at a local level even
beginning with the nomination process (Schmutz and Elliott 2016). As mentioned previously, tour-
ism growth is one of the expected effects and one of the current motivations among State Parties for
the inscription of new sites. However, in some cases, local communities, especially traditional and
Indigenous ones, have not been informed as to how to participate in the site management and how
to go about reaping the benefits of the tourism industry. Poverty, unemployment and low income are
common among these populations, even though they themselves and their traditions are part of the
tourist attraction and taken advantage of as a kind of living heritage (Ndoro and Wijesuriya 2014).
The social impact of tourism is, in some cases, considered by researchers to be a threat to the conti-
nuity of traditional living practices, as they are thought to shape local communities in both rural and
urban areas, and in developed and developing countries (Evans 2002; Andereck et al. 2005; Wang et
al. 2015). Last but not least, even though tourism represents a significant revenue for tourist destina-
tions, its consequences on the natural environment have been analysed as not positive for economic
sustainability (Schmutz and Elliott 2016).
Figure 2. The five elements of the tourist promotion of Palenque: (a) Archaeology, (b) Nature, (c) Indigenous culture, (d) World Heritage
inscription and (e) the ‘Pueblo Mágico’ designation.
6 A. VARGAS
Figure 3. Visitors to Palenque Archaeological Site from 1996 to 2016. Source: INAH (2017).
Figure 4. Visitors to Palenque from 1996 to 2016 by nationality in percentages. Source: INAH (2017).
An analysis of the data I gathered during my fieldwork with local tourist guides confirmed the
negative effects of insecurity and the economic crisis. It also corroborated my initial impression regard-
ing the failure to promote UNESCO as a brand and for its heritage conservation values (see analysis
below). Regarding insecurity, the majority of workers in the areas of tourism, security and manage-
ment acknowledged that the news about social and political instability, assaults and the blocking of
the roads leading to Palenque had affected visitor numbers. As one guide expressed, ‘this year [2016],
roadblocks and political instability have reduced tourism drastically’. One site manager, for example,
said that because he was identified as a federal employee by demonstrators, ‘I had to pay 500 pesos in
a blockage and 200 pesos more later on [in the same road]’ (see also D. Ramírez 2016). In 2016, a year
with an increase in political instability in Chiapas, total visitors to Palenque dropped 29% compared
with 2015 (Figure 3). The private tourism sector has been directly affected by a tourism decrease and
the poor reputation of the Palenque region. As seen during the fieldwork, the reduction in the number
of tourists and an increase in competition among tourist guides at Palenque has led to tension between
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF HERITAGE STUDIES 7
the official and unofficial guides, some of whom are under the legal working age. A civil servant in the
municipality of Palenque, for example, told me about child labour ‘It’s really a very serious problem.
More than a tourist problem it is a social problem’. Negative comments in TripAdvisor on this issue are
related to the management of vendors, tourists’ guides and site’s infrastructure and services, however
the general appreciation is positive (TripAdvisor 2018).
Regarding the promotion of UNESCO values, I noticed that neither the official managers nor the
private tourism services were including any content about the Outstanding Universal Value of the site
or its contribution to UNESCO’s aim of peace building, a key aspect of this institution. Comments
from collective interviews regarding the impact of the World Heritage inscription included statements
such as ‘This is not acknowledged by the local community’, ‘There is a lack of information given to
the communities’, ‘People do not know that it [referring to Palenque] is heritage’, ‘There is a lack of
awareness of affiliated institutions’. During the fieldwork I noticed that in general terms local Maya
people don’t know that Palenque is a World Heritage site.
do not have legal-legislative status. This means that the implementation of any new policy largely
depends on the will or abilities of the site managers, with no extra budget to carry it out. Furthermore,
since the management plans are not public documents, outsiders from INAH have restricted access in
consulting them, and have practically no way of taking part in the decision-making for their execution.
In addition to the INAH, the other major agency in Palenque is the CONANP, the official manager
of Palenque’s natural resources. The CONANP was created in 2000, six years after the emergence of the
EZLN. Consequently, in accordance with the new understanding of the socio-political situation, this
new agency did not apply restrictions or impede commercial activities at archaeological sites, and there-
fore neither did it in Palenque. In practice, it is quite the reverse: CONANP currently encourages and
supports alternative tourist routes in the National Park that bypass the main archaeological remains.
These routes consist in a path in the jungle where visitors can see other parts of the National Park and
some unexcavated archaeological remains in addition to the main archaeological attraction, not to
substitute it. Regarding the sites’ planning, CONANP has experience in participatory management
processes, thanks to incorporating, in its rules of procedure, the need for including representatives
from civil society and Indigenous communities as consultants (México 1988; CONANP 2016). Even
though the experience of CONANP in social participation is very solid, tensions have emerged, such
as those related to the modification of the boundaries of the protected area in Palenque National Park
in November 2016, a previous step for the elaboration of the management programme. The solution
of this borderlines issue was recommended to CONANP by the Human Rights National Commission
explicitly advising that they follow international standards (CNDH 2016, para. 58, 228–6th). The
proposal of modification, however, was rejected by the localities involved, due to a perceived lack of
information received. This rejection did not prevent the implementations of the change in the bound-
aries, given that the procedure did not establish that the results of the consultancy process were legally
binding. Thus, the participation of local communities acted a double-edged sword, because it was used
as a method to legitimate decisions previously made instead of being used as an opportunity to share
the power with local people for the protection of sites with mutual benefits.
Stakeholders from the public and private sectors at the municipal level do not participate in the
management of Palenque. Municipal government initiatives for heritage are almost exclusively related
to the tourism promotion of the site, but decision makers do not participate in the management of
the site nor advocate for local Indigenous peoples’ claims on heritage management. Based on data
collected during my fieldwork in El Naranjo and Adolfo López Mateos, the local authorities of both
villages have no direct participation in the management of the site. The same is the case regarding the
many stakeholders coming from the private sector. This situation was acknowledged by the State Party
in the Second Periodic Report mentioned above. In it, Mexico rated the cooperation/relationship of
sites managers with local communities and Indigenous peoples as ‘non-existent’, and as ‘poor’ with
local/municipal authorities and tourism industry (INAH 2013, sec. 4.3.7). The same report mentioned
that local communities resident in or near the World Heritage property ‘have no input into decisions
relating to the management’ (INAH 2013, sec. 4.3.8). Same answer for the case of Indigenous peoples
(INAH 2013, sec. 4.3.9). By contrast, Mexico stated that the impact of the inscription of Palenque
in the World Heritage List was ‘very positive’ in terms of management effectiveness, ‘positive’ in the
quality of life for local and Indigenous peoples and ‘no impact’ in institutional coordination (INAH
2013, sec. 6.1).
the result of a lack of comprehensive regional policies to link the tourism industry to local agriculture
production. As regards the services offered to visitors in and around Palenque, the observations made
during my fieldwork in the archaeological site indicate that most businesses are family-run, with an
exclusively local and regional presence, and administered by a minority of the population.
The tourism sector is minor in terms of employment, although there have been outstanding pub-
lic-sector policies and investments in this area. Three infrastructure projects have been announced
in the media as instruments to bolster economic growth based on tourism. The most important, and
the only one to be completed, is the Palenque International Airport, at a cost of 1269 million pesos
(73.1 M USD). It was inaugurated in February 2014 with a capacity of 300,000 passengers annually
(México 2014a), but since opening only two flights a week to and from Mexico City have operated.
After two years, in October 2016, the local news that announced that the only company and only
flight that operated in the airport was about to cancel its regular flights due to the lack of passengers
(Sala 2016). This was immediately denied by the Chiapas government (Diez Noticias 2016). Official
figures show that the number of passengers in the airport has been under the 20,000 annually and are
significantly below the expectative and the installed capacity (SCT 2017b).
The second planned infrastructure was the construction of a highway between Palenque and the
town of San Cristobal de las Casas, 200 km away. This was due to the perceived need to replace the
current road, improve local economy and reduce the travelling time between those two tourist attrac-
tions. However, social mobilisation and public demonstrations against it leaded by affected Indigenous
groups led the government of Chiapas to cancel the original project (Mandujano 2015). The third
project was the construction of an Integrally Planned Centre (CIP, Centro Integralmente Planeado)
close to the archaeological area, similar to those already established at Cancun and Huatulco (Alfonso
et al. 2012; Ramírez 2014). Nevertheless, the CIP project that included luxury hotels, a golf camp
and a thematic park (González 2007) was finally dropped due to a lack of federal funding after the
decrease of international oil prices reduced government revenues. The demonstrations organised by
Indigenous peoples against the CIP also influenced the government in abandoning this idea (Calvo
2008; Warnholtz Locht 2015).
As shown in these three examples, public investment was aimed at making the archaeological site
more competitive in the tourist sector and achieving local development through an increase in visitor
numbers. Yet, as indicated in the previous analysis of visitor figures and the opinions gathered during
my conversations in the field I would argue that social issues at the local and national levels are key
factors for the flow of foreign visitors and more important than a lack of infrastructure. Moreover,
based on the development indicators mentioned in the introduction, 82% of people in Palenque still
live in poverty. Due to the historical lack of real impact of these investments in Indigenous communi-
ties, these communities have not remained passive in the face of planned state tourism development
projects and policies. Factors such as the decrease in oil prices have partly led to the failure of these
initiatives and it is uncertain whether the opposition of the Indigenous population would have been
equally fruitful without these factors.
Local communities’ dissatisfaction with development policies and government investments in infra-
structure is confirmed by the information gathered during the fieldwork, which shows that poverty is
one of the most severe problems in the Palenque area. Poverty has forced communities to improvise
tourism activities and find immediate financial measures to satisfy their most basic needs, including
informal trade and child labour at the archaeological site. UNESCO is well aware of the poverty in
the area, as well as at similar sites in Latin America, as indicated by the analysis made about this in
the Regional Second Periodic Report on UNESCO World Heritage sites (UNESCO 2014). The rep-
resentatives of the 32 State Parties that participated in this report acknowledged that poverty could
be combatted through cultural heritage management and agreed to include poverty reduction in the
objectives of the 2014–2024 Regional Action Plan (UNESCO 2014). After the acknowledgement
by the UN of the role of culture for economic development in the Sustainable Development Goals,
UNESCO added new policies on this regard (UNESCO 2015b). Yet, despite the public acknowledge-
ment of, and the expression of commitment by, the Mexican government in the international arena,
10 A. VARGAS
the local communities in the area around Palenque have not seen an improvement in their social
living conditions. Thus, the government’s justification of big investments in tourism infrastructure as
a way to improve the local quality of life has been constantly denied by local communities, especially
by Indigenous people (Rojas 2014; SIPAZ 2014). As a taxi driver explained to me, ‘this new airport
will close soon, just as the former one located across the street did’. He was referring to what had
happened with a previous international airport which operated in Palenque since 1996 and closed in
2001 (SCT 2017a, 92, 122).
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank the local people of Palenque for their contribution and participation. Special thanks to Research
Professor Margarita Díaz-Andreu (ICREA-University of Barcelona) who gave me important advice, encouragement and
guidance during this research. Professor Xavier Roigé (University of Barcelona), Cristina Sánchez-Carretero (ParticiPat
Project INCIPIT-CSIC) also gave me good guidance. Thanks to Dr César Villalobos Acosta (UNAM-CEA) for his support
and advice during my research stay at UNAM and fieldwork in Mexico. A first paper related to this topic was given at
the SAA conference in April 2017. I wrote a first draft of this article during my stay at the Department of Archaeology
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF HERITAGE STUDIES 11
at Simon Fraser University, and I am grateful to all of those who provided suggestions in the very enriching discussions
we had, especially Professor George Nicholas for his tutoring during my stay.
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author.
Funding
This work was supported by the Consejo Nacional de Ciencia y Tecnología [grant number CVU 455391].
Notes on contributor
Amilcar Vargas is a PhD candidate at the University of Barcelona with a research on social participation in Archaeological
World Heritage Sites in Mexico. He is interested in social processes related to management, interpretation and public
exhibition of heritage sites, in particular those inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List. He is also interested in
social participation and social engagement in archaeological places, especially where indigenous and local interests
discuss with heritage institutions and official discourses.
ORCID
Amilcar Vargas http://orcid.org/0000-0002-5669-6460
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