If This Is Our Land, Where Are Our Stories? Cultural Piracy of Crafts of Assam

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If this is our land, where are our stories? Cultural piracy of crafts of Assam
Conference Paper · January 2018
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Dutta, Mridul. (2018). If this is our land, where are our stories? Cultural piracy of crafts of Assam. Locating
Northeast India: Human Mobility, Resource Flows, and Spatial Linkages. Setting the agenda for Traditional
Knowledge utilisation. International Conference, Tezpur University, India.
If this is our land, where are our stories? Cultural piracy of crafts of Assam
Abstract
In Assam region of North East India, traditional knowledge system of indigenous knowledge,
traditional ecological knowledge and traditional cultural expressions is passed from one generation
to next due to succession or for geo-political migration. This traditional knowledge system has
been proliferating and contributing the age-old local innovation practices and built the foundation
for the indigenous communities of Assam in meeting economic, livelihood based social
stratification, institutional challenges, and cultural identity. Civilization in this region flourished
and evolved with geographical synergies into some of the best practices in science of agriculture
practices in flood plains, medicinal plants, perfumes, silk varieties, loom, weaving, pottery, brick
kiln, bamboo, timber structures, wine, alcoholic beverages, alloy, metallurgy sciences, traditional
cultural expressions like, musical instruments, mask making skills, drama and songs. The only
weakness of traditional knowledge system is its availability in public domain. With little
documentation of loom techniques, weaving skills, handicraft skills, legends, stories, folklore,
songs, tunes, rituals, farming, watershed techniques, fishing practices & customary laws, the
indigenous communities are at the risk of losing the very building blocks of this civilization. This
paper discusses the threat of losing traditional knowledge system due to human migration,
proliferation of neo-societal norms due to changing norms of social acceptance of artecraft with
imitation products imported from mass manufacturing facilities. Creative destruction, piracy of
heritage and misappropriation of economic value of traditional knowledge assets is also impacting
the identity of indigenous communities with silent economic repercussions of loss of livelihood
opportunities from loom, weaving, and handicraft. Some of this cultural piracy can be related to
Assam with changing land holding patterns, patriarchal norms, floods, abandoning sustainable
livelihood practices, size of the family, and neo-societal norms after the beginning of colonial
period. Some of common manifestations of this loss is use of traditional symbols in fashion &
apparel industry, copying of traditional songs, stealing of climate resistant plant seed varieties,
misuse of knowledge with patents, copyrighting violation of folklore and commodification of
culture. There are instances of ethnic communities asserting their rights over traditional knowledge
assets with potential economic use through instruments into models of benefit sharing mechanism
Page 1 of 16
and identity management. Countries emphasizing Sui-Generis rights and Geographical Indications
have proved this through radical twisting of legal norms with institutional support favouring
competitive commercialization of the knowledge system through Regional Innovation System.
Few best practices include the documentation of Indian System of Medicines; integrated research
in Ayurveda, Yoga, Naturopathy, Unani, Siddha, Homoeopathy, Traditional Tibetan medicine
and; knowledge commons. As a first step, this research proposes to identify a set of artefact and
craft from each indigenous community and register its Geographical Indication for mitigating the
competition within the country. The hypothesis of symbiotic relationship between regional
innovation system and objective of identity issue of ethnic communities with economic
empowerment in Assam needs to be tested. This discussion is for adopting a set of interdisciplinary
approach and use the platform for develop guidelines for research, policy guidance and confidence
building measures for primary stakeholders under regional innovation system framework.
Keywords: Regional Innovation System; Artefact; Assam; Traditional Knowledge System.
Introduction
Traditional Knowledge1 (TK) and Traditional Cultural Expression (TCE) are synonymous
with culture, religion, ethnicity, and rituals of a civilization. In Assam 2 and North Eastern India,
indigenous populations are ethnically identified with their economic, social, institutional and
cultural synergies, (Barkataki-Ruscheweyh & Lauser, 2013). Local knowledge system forms the
foundation for indigenous practices of ethnic communities. Very often, this knowledge system is
mostly being passed is succession with exceptions of geo-political migration. (Dutta &
Bhattacharya, 2017). Traditional knowledge (TK) and Traditional Cultural Expression (TCE) as
1
Definition of Traditional Knowledge, Genetic Resources and Traditional Cultural Expressions or Folklore,
http://www.wipo.int/tk/en/
2
Assam and North Eastern India are being used synonymously in context of pre-colonial period under British
Administration in 20th Century.
Page 2 of 16
an entity in indigenous knowledge system is also no exception. The factors and dependencies of
this local knowledge system of this region are interwoven social, cultural, religious, geographical
and, economic relationships.
Innovation Systems & Clusters
The competitive advantage of indigenous knowledge system is based on the traditional

knowledge and traditional cultural expression (Asheim & Coenen 2005). This argument is no
different for Assam and nearby region where successive generations have passed on and acquired
the traditional knowledge (TK) in the form of cultural and ethnic identity of that community (Dutta
& Haque, 2014). Empirical studies have indicated that the ethnicity, interrelated with social
conditions (Bathelt, 2003), cultural issues (Lundvall, 1992), religious belief, geographic
conditions, and, economic factors have been driving indigenous knowledge of Assam into a
regional economic conglomerate in precolonial and postcolonial period. Some of the thriving local
innovation system of this region in precolonial and postcolonial period includes the masks making
expertise (mukha) of Natun Samaguri monastery and traditional decorative cane fans of Auniati
monastery of Majuli, Assam; the sitalpati grass mat of Goalpara region and terracotta of
Asharikandi of Dhubri region of Assam; sustainable fish trapping devices (thuha, seppa, ubhoti,
zuluki, pa’loh, ja’kai) used in the flood plains and wetlands of Assam; traditional practice of water
management systems in watersheds of different communities of Arunachal Pradesh; the Eri/Endi3
silk, Pat silk, Muga4 silk, and, bell metal crafts of Sarthebari of Assam. The cluster concentration
of micro, small and medium enterprises (Cooke, Boekholt & Tödtling, 1998) have common
opportunities for complementary range of products in a geographical area (Isaksen & Hauge,
2002). These clusters (Cooke, 2001) developing into value chain (Porter, 2000) from local
knowledge system (Bathelt, Malmberg & Maskell, 2004) of Assam of administrative units
(Steiner, 1998) or to a particular community as local knowledge system. In the year 2011 the
National Innovation Council of the then Planning Commission5 selected three clusters from North
3
Silk yarn from the caterpillar of Samia cynthia ricini endemic in Assam and South East Asia.
4
Golden silk Muga GI application No 55. Geographical Indication Journal 16, GI Registry, Chennai
5
Planning Commission was in 1950 as a subject of Union Government of India formulating Five-Year Plans.
Page 3 of 16
East India and forth cluster of Umden in Meghalaya on the local innovation system of Eri or Endi
silk. However, a holistic policy may deem fit to include the other innovation systems with
development agenda, as interventions by Niti Ayog6, the predecessor of Planning Commission.
The clusters in reference can be Brass & Bell metal skills, Cane & Bamboo craft skills and different
types of handwoven fabric from silk and natural yarn endemic to Assam region.
Policy level interventions to regionalize innovation from grassroot level have strong
interdependence for evolution of regional innovation systems and clusters. Since, the geo-
economic conditions of Assam may not favour engineering or manufacturing based clusters,
Regional Innovation System policy level interventions require promote historical technological
knowledge based on TK and TCE. Empirical evidences have indicated sustainability of the
artifacts, TK, scripts & language, TCE, and local innovation system, provided it evolves into
regional innovation system (RIS) supported by social & community relationships, geographical
qualities, and economic value. Some of the distinctive innovation system which have become
trademarks of North East Region are: -
a) Tawang Carpet & Mask making cluster, Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh;
b) Sualkuchi Handloom Cluster, Kamrup, Assam. Textiles cluster specialized in silk
weaving in Assam (Das, 2009);
c) Mukhkushi Japi Cluster, Nalbari, Assam. Japi is a traditional Assamese headgear
or hat of Assam. (Saikia, 2012);
d) Incense Stick Cluster, Bagabasa, West Tripura. A rural cottage industry involving
local artisans engaged in different stages of incense stick making process. (Dhar &
Saha, 2014)
e) Brass and bell metal industry cluster, Hajo village, Assam.
f) Pyranga Eri Cluster, Boko village, Kamrup, Assam. Favourable climatic
conditions, and traditional expertise of Rabha community in eri rearing, yarn
6
National Institution for Transforming India was established in 2015 as an economic policy think tank of
Government of India in line with SDG and foster participation of State Governments with 15 year road map
Page 4 of 16
production and eri spinning & weaving expertise of Muslim community resulted
into this cluster.
g) Sital Pati, Katakthal village, Hallakandi, Assam
h) Knife Manufacturing, Karanga village, Jorhat, Assam
i) Handloom Cluster, Sipajhar, Darrang Assam.
j) Jewellery Cluster, Nagaon, Assam
k) Terracotta cluster, Dhubri, Assam
l) Pottery cluster, Bijoynagar, South Kamrup, Assam
m) Cane & Bamboo cluster, Borpeta, Assam
n) Bell Metal Cluster, Sarthebari, Barpeta, Assam
o) Bamboo Incense Stick Cluster, Kako Pather, Assam
p) Darrang Food Processing cluster, Darrang, Arunachal Pradesh
q) Handloom Weaving Cluster, Churachandpur, Manipur
r) Bamboo Cluster, Aizwal, Mizoram.
s) Handloom Cluster, Jalukie, Nagaland
t) Hapania Jute cluster, West Tripura, Tripura
Advocating for the geographical location for Regional Innovation System (RIS) of a region
(Rond & Hussler, 2005), intra-regional trade hierarchy is also important factor for development of
cluster. RIS of Assam comprise of numerous religious belief systems, diversities cultural and intra-
regional links. Theoretical frameworks and empirical findings of evolution of RIS support the
hypothesis that the precolonial and postcolonial local innovation system of Assam can evolve into
RIS with interventions based on geographical characteristics and economic as well as geographic
proximity of the trading blocs. If described in relationships, the livelihood or the economic output
is a dependent variable of the innovation system (independent variable) of Assam region. Since
time immemorial, RIS of the hills and plains of Assam7 region had been handloom and loin-loom
expertise. In the plains of Assam, the handloom weaving skills is a traditional domain of
womenfolk called xhipinie in native language. The popular handloom products are traditional
apparels made of eri, muga, and paat silk, cotton, acrylic yarn; mirijim/motifs on blankets &
7
Hills of Nagaland, North East Frontier Agency, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram and present-day Assam.
Page 5 of 16
mattresses done by Mishsing and Kalita community of Majuli, Lakhimpur; stoles and shawls of
Karbi, Mikir and Dimasa tribes; Lasingphee blankets in southern Assam’s Cachar district, etc.
From historical references, the popular artifact Gamosa reflects the cultural and traditional
significance associated to the ethnic communities of entire Assam. For uncountable generations,
the TK of Gamosa (Dutta & Bhattacharya, 2017) is passed in oral and vocational format from
mothers to their daughters and keeps spreading out to generations with intra caste/tribe and inter
clan matrimonial relationships.
Handloom and Artefacts: Local Innovation System of Assam region

Handloom skill is a trademark skill of women of Assam called xhipinie in Assamese
language (Bhuyan D, 2007; Das, 2009; Dutta, 2015; et al). The product of the weavers of different
communities of this region is unique and sacrosanct as it touches the way of life and rituals,
irrespective of religious or ethnic background (Dutta, 2012; et al). For example, there are four
formats for Gamosa (Dutta, 2016) called Goxhain gamosa for adorning the monikut8, Bihuwaan
the gamosa given as a token of love, tiua’nee, utility purpose and Hasotee for pack dry stuff and
praxhad9 of the namghar. The branding of Gamosa is due to its recognition in Assamese society
such as scarf, muffler, headgear by unmarried men during bihu dance; offering during rituals,
prayers, worship; as gift to a friend, return gift, token of love or bihuwaan; or for felicitation; for
ornamentation and decoration purpose; or when bought as a souvenir by tourist and visitors; and
its utility in the working class.
Tragic death of Gamosa

The power loom made replica of Gamosa has captured a large chunk of the market in Assam since
last one decade. The power loom product is “me too” (Trout, J., 1969, Kotler, P., 1967, et al) of
Gamosa it terms of colour pattern and appearance. It is aggressively priced in the local market,
available due to economies of scale of power loom production with very little concern on the
compromise on quality, motifs, yarn quality, most importantly, the constraints to the identity of a
8
The seven stepped religious icon of Namghar.
9
Prasad or food offerings in Namghar
Page 6 of 16
Xhipinie. Other reasons being socio-economic condition have discouraged the parents to insist
their daughters to take interest handloom weaving skills and accept lucrative and employability
vocational skills. Though Assam is a rich with fertile soil for farming and natural resources, it is
witnessing significant change of demographic structure due interstate migration, internal
migration, immigration contribute (Basumatari, 2014). Interstate migration was 1.93%,
immigration was 0.71% and internal migrants was 22.21% (Registrar of Census, 2001). Handloom
Census 2010 gives glaring disparity in the contribution on handloom in family income with
handlooms in NE region could contribute 19% against national average of 58% (Devi, 2013). This
no exception as the same phenomenon was observed in Bangladesh as well where number of
weavers engaged with Tangail sarees10 were migrating to India, causing drastic impact on value
chain over the years (Banarjee, Muzib, Sharmin, 2014). Family structures, subsistence household
and commodity producers surviving on family labour is another identity crisis (Roy, 1988). The
marketing and distribution suffer another problem with handloom products of North East India as
this segment is in broad category of self-consumption sector or for domestic consumption for
household requirement (Nadh, Rao & Vardhan, 2013). Weavers are engaged in direct marketing
and thus the urban and export markets is beyond the reach of weavers. Some intermediaries retail
these products through their own outlets or act as intermediaries supplying wholesalers or retailers.
The bulk of export and urban market is through merchant exporters and manufacturer exporters,
leaving the master weavers their due share legitimate economic benefit. Originality and
genuineness of handloom produce is another issue for consumers. With introduction of IS 12675
(1989) certification for and integrated approach with India Handloom Brand11 is an initiative
hopefully may counter imitative products with multi-pronged objectives from quality products,
new designs, gain trust of customers, attention to hand woven, authentic niche products with zero
defect and zero impact on environment.
10
Traditional Bengali handloom saree made by the weavers from places like Murshidabad, Nadia, Hooghly of West
Bengal and Dhaka, Tangail of Bangladesh, comfortable saree for the tropical hot and humid climate.
11
India Handloom Brand was launched on August 7, 2015 in continuation of Handloom Mark Scheme on June 28,
2006 to ensure authenticity, branding and little effect on the environment. Standard Operating Procedure are also
laid in this initiative. Available at http://pib.nic.in/newsite/PrintRelease.aspx?relid=136320, accessed on 11-
November 2017.
Page 7 of 16
There is a hope, from belief and understanding of the consumer behaviour that the machine-
made imitation product will not replace bihuwaan and goxhain gamosa. There are many reasons
for it, but the closest of this assumption is that for an Assamese woman would get handloom woven
bihuwaan as a token of love. Therefore, for last few years, the bihuwaan is bought from special
handloom fairs and trade shows in the cities.
Objective of this argument

The hypothesis can be summarized as livelihood and economic output to be a dependent
variable of the Regional Innovation System of Assam. The Innovation System and practices based
on Traditional Knowledge and Traditional Cultural Expressions (sustain innovation-based
learning economies (Asheim and Isaksen, 1997) remains the independent variable. Based on the
review of literature, environment analysis, the author argues to draw the relationship between
innovation system of Assam, cluster approach and TK and TCE of artifacts; and create a debate
on the feasibility of interventions (strategy) in the regional innovation systems for artifacts of
North Eastern Region of India.
Discussions
Taking cues from literature, the government has a significant role in an evolutionary, non-
linear output (Todtling & Trippl 2005). The objective(s) of the government must focus on intensive
collaboration between stakeholders within clusters, communication with universities, facilitate
incubation facilities, provide subsidy & bring financing institutions, involve statutory bodies,
media, industry associations, legislative will and judiciary. The role of formal institutions like
setting up of societies, Self Help Groups & laws and soft institutions like best practices & norms
(Edquist & Johnson, 1997) is strategic in the business of clusters operating in North East India and
elsewhere in India. In line of reflexive governance of innovation systems (Lindner, R., et al 2016),
following are actionable: -
Self-reflection capacities: The value TK and TCE accumulated and available with present
generation is at the risk of getting lost in oblivion forever. The orientation of cultural value
system, social hierarchy and ethnic identity of the communities of Assam today is all
depending on the strategy adopted by the community and its government.
Page 8 of 16
Bridging and integration capacities: Connecting the aspirations of self-help groups,

societies, NGOs, intelligentsia, educational institutions for identity crisis with the TCEs of
Assam. Integrating business collaboration among linkages within the boundary of RIS of
Gamosa with significant conflict recognition and moderation among the existing value
chain.
Anticipation capacities: Visionary policy based on present strength and opportunities of

linkages, actors and stakeholders. This will include simulative projection of RIS of
Gamosa, and anticipation of long-term tangible effects in terms livelihood opportunities to
the marginalised section of the society. With improving tele-density and low-cost mobile
applications, anticipation of positive transformation by giving identity to each and every
piece of gamosa woven by select Xhipinie through information system enabled quick
response code.
Experimentation capacities: Role of government in setting up a multi prong strategy such

as Geographical Indication strategy coupled with statute and policy guidelines for
government consumption. This will also include framing and documenting financial
incentives policy for next one decade and action plan for implementation; branding
strategy; and policy level augmentation to increase the learning capacity of weaving as a
vocational skill in Assam.
At policy making level, the government and state actors (Doloreux & Parto, 2005) must
need to augment the RIS of gamosa with Geographical Indication armed with statutory protection
and bureaucratic willingness. Institutional support for over decades was overlooked and without
contemplation, political leadership now must show decisive actions being taken. Traditional
knowledge and Traditional Cultural Expressions or expressions of folklore (WIPO, 2012) are
economic and cultural assets of any indigenous communities. WIPO 12 has laid down framework
12
World Intellectual Property Organization was established inn1967 as an agency of United Nations to encourage
creative activity and protect intellectual property throughout the world.
Page 9 of 16
protecting TK and TCE from misappropriation. There are numerous successful case studies for
equitable sharing of benefits of commercialization of TK and TCE. TK and TCE are important
content for any product to be granted status of Geographical Indication 13 (WTO, 2006). A
Geographical Indication tag will motivate stakeholders/weavers to produce traditional dyes, yarns
and ingredients (Singh, et al 2010) ensuring distinctive characteristic of handloom fabric is
restored. The branding strategy is expected to get a boost with a GI tag associated with Assamese
community. To make a strong ground for GI authorised users, the regional innovation systems on
gamosa, its evolution and quality assessment in the various stages production process will be
helpful. This stage of research is focused in gathering historical and preliminary information about
Gamosa. Further, the possible state intervention is simulated in providing statutory protection of
‘Gamosa’ through statutory GI law and policy level intervention to increase the demand of GI
Gamosa. Government of India enacted the act ‘Geographical Indications of Goods Act 1999’ from
2003 conferring legal protection to the product both in the country & abroad in preventing
exploitation. The GI Goods Act 1999 will help the handloom weavers and associated traders by
granting a generic product nomenclature which will be distinctively linked to Assam and the
stakeholders of GI mark. Eventually, the machine-made fabric sellers or any party who is not
sourcing from handloom weavers having authorised GI users, cannot use the term ‘gamosa’ after
GI is granted to Gamosa of Assam.
Conclusions
The sentimental and cultural issues may not help the regional innovation systems of
artefacts of North Eastern Region to compete against the me-too products or imitation products.
Since weaving & handloom practice of Assam is little documented, oral & vocational practice of
gamosa will be a challenge for transforming the local innovation system into a regional innovation
system. At policy level strategy, academia and policy makers need to mobilize research support
and interventions for artefacts. The intelligentsia and media have a role to institutionalise the RIS
13
General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade in Article 22.1 defined Geographical Indication as an indication which
identifies a good originating from the territory of a member, or a region or locality in that territory, where a given
quality, reputation or other characteristic of the good is essentially attributable to its geographical origin.
Page 10 of 16
through protection of its traditional knowledge and traditional cultural expression. Federal
Governments needs to mobilse resources establish clusters by integrating into commercial
handloom units. Further research is required in collaboration of with NGOs and implementing
agencies for sustaining the royalty category for artifacts at WTO level, as has been achieved by
France for Champagne and Tea Board of India for Darjeeling Tea. Sui Generis, Geographical
Indications will be a valuable property to the primary stakeholders of handicraft, weavers and
artefact producers, but it’s not clear how to qualify authorised GI users or protect the spirit of Sui
Generis with competition. Even though independents handloom weavers are more likely to
qualify, it will not support the cluster approach due its fragmented operations. Nevertheless, GI
for artefacts through innovation system will help the reputation of producers because of its
geographical origin in this region, cultural attachment to the history & ethnic communities and
skills of Xhipinie. Protection of artefacts through TK, TCE, GI and Sue Generis shall perform three
functions. Firstly, an artefact will be identified as crafts originating from a cluster, or a state.
Second, it will suggest to the consumer and the distribution channel about produce of craft person,
weavers, Xhipinie of a place where a given quality, reputation, or artistic characteristic of the
artefact is ensured and essentially attributed to that state/cluster. Third, the artefact shall promote
identity with a worldwide recognition in GI literature alleviated from regional innovation system.
Misappropriation of TK and TCE is wrong for disrespectful of the cultural values of the
source community and subjects that cluster to material harm by denying it legitimate economic
beneﬁts. National Biodiversity Authority14, People’s Biodiversity Registers15, Patent Act does not
recognise invention which in effect, is traditional knowledge or which is an aggregation or
duplication of known properties of traditionally known component or components (Section 3(P)
of Indian Patent Act), GI, Protection of Plant Varieties and Farmers Rights Act. Traditional
Knowledge Digital Library has emerged as an important instrument for patent examiners for
refuting claims of patents misappropriating Indian’s traditional medicinal knowledge. The
National Intellectual Property Rights Policy, 2016 which calls for constructive engagement at
14
National Biodiversity Authority (2003) is an autonomous body under the Ministry of Environment, Forests and
climate change, Government to implement the provisions under the Biological Diversity Act, 2002.
15
Under jurisdiction of Biological Diversity Act (2002), Peoples’ Biodiversity Register is a repository containing
comprehensive information on locally available Bio-resources including landscape and demography of an area or
village.
Page 11 of 16
various international forum to develop legally binding international instruments to protect TK,
Genetic Resources, TCE, documenting oral traditional knowledge. The proposition of this debate
feels that due to diversity of TK across the country, different communities with unique cultural
expressions and artefacts and divergent socio-economic conditions, it is important to have State
IPR Policy. IPR Policy created by Kerala in 200816 is a thought leadership in this direction. IPR
policy of Kerala gave strong focus on protecting Ayurveda knowledge which is unique identity
and practice among various communities in this state. Few tangible outcomes of IPR policy of
Kerala are Kerala Traditional Knowledge Authority, holders’ rights under common license,
registration of traditional Ayurveda practitioners, documentation and codification of the Ayurveda
process. The IPR Policy should support creation of policy for states rich artefacts, TK, TCE, and
Traditional Medicinal Plants.
***
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If This Is Our Land, Where Are Our Stories? Cultural Piracy of Crafts of Assam

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Keywords: Regional Innovation System; Artefact; Assam; Traditional Knowledge System.

Innovation Systems & Clusters

The competitive advantage of indigenous knowledge system is based on the traditional

Handloom and Artefacts: Local Innovation System of Assam region

Tragic death of Gamosa

Objective of this argument

Bridging and integration capacities: Connecting the aspirations of self-help groups,

Anticipation capacities: Visionary policy based on present strength and opportunities of

Experimentation capacities: Role of government in setting up a multi prong strategy such

Bathelt, H. (2003). Geographies of production: Growth regimes in spatial perspective 1

Barkataki-Ruscheweyh, M. & Lauser, A. (2012). Performing Identity Politics and Culture in

Dutta, M. & Bhattacharya, S. (2016, January). Geographical Indication as a business

Dutta, M. (2013, November). Geographical Indication for Gamosa: Opportunities and

Pp:41–63. Pinter: London. Available at https://charlesedquist.com/books/systems-of

Lundvall, B. A. (Ed.) (1992). National Systems of Innovation: Towards a Theory of Innovation

Porter, M. E. (Ed.) (1985). Competitive Advantage: Creating and Sustaining Superior

WTO. (2006). Available at https://www.wto.org/english/docs_e/legal_e/27-trips_04b_e.htm

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