Learn Marcotting

Marcotting or air layering, an asexual or vegetative method of plant propagation,
can be easily performed with less skill. Air layering is just slightly different from
other methods of layering such as tip layering, simple layering, compound or
serpentine layering, etc. In all these methods, the induction of root development
is usually done by wounding the part of the plant to be rooted.
In this layering method, roots are induced to form on the part of the plant while it
remains aerial (aboveground), hence the term air layering. But in other layering
methods, the same plant part is rooted on the ground with stem usually by
bending it downward.
The following practical methods are common in propagating plants by marcotting:
1. Plant and Shoot Selection
A shoot with plenty of leaves is chosen from a healthy plant. The size of the stem
at the part to be rooted is generally about that of an ordinary pencil, but this is
not essential. Both the thickness and length of the stem vary depending on the
plant part to be layered (trunk, branch or twig), the intended size of the air layer
to be produced, and the plant species.
In roses, the stems used in marcotting are normally thinner. In comparison, in
herbaceous plants like aglaonema and dieffenbachia, the stems are thick.
2. Girdling and Scraping
This is unique in marcotting. However, this procedure is skipped in bamboo and

herbaceous plants. For trees, shrubs and semi-woody plants, a strip of bark is first
removed from around the portion of the stem to be rooted. This involves pressing
of a sharp knife against the bark preferably as close as possible below a node,
moving the knife in circular motion around the stem. A similar cut is made
generally about 2 cm to 5 cm below the first cut, but it can be wider with larger
stems. The two cuts are then connected by a straight cut and the bark is pried
loose and removed.
Marcotting procedure for shrubs and trees usually starts with girdling of the stem,
removal of bark, and scraping of the exposed wood.
The debarked portion of the stem is then scraped to remove the phloem and
cambium, that slippery coating on the wood, to prevent the wound from healing
and the upper and lower barks from reconnecting.
3. Slitting and Wedging
In herbaceous plants, an inward cut is made starting from below a node and
slightly upward. The cut has to traverse the horizontal line that marks the node at
the point about halfway of the thickness of the stem and terminate above the
same node. In other words, this slanting cut must be able to severe the horizontal
connection of the node.
Coir dust, sphagnum moss or a piece of wood or any other suitable material is
then inserted into the wound to serve as wedge. The purpose of this wedge is to
keep the upper and lower cut surfaces apart and prevent healing just like in
girdling and scraping.
4. Placing and Securing the Rooting Medium
A slightly moistened sphagnum moss or coconut coir dust is placed around the
debarked stem and wrapped with a piece of plastic sheet. A transparent plastic
sheet is preferred to be able to see later if roots have developed. In many plant
species, however, the stems can be marcotted even with pure soil.
Marcotted Schefflera or Five Fingers . The roots form from the part of the stem
immediately above the girdled area.
The rooting medium may be as thick as 1 inch (2.5 cm) from side to side or bigger
depending on the earliness to develop roots and size of the stem. The longer is
the time required to induce rooting and the bigger is the stem, the thicker should
be the rooting medium.
Both ends of the plastic sheet are gathered and tied securely against the stem,
with one end just under the bottom part of the debarked stem (lower cut) and
the other a short distance above the upper part (upper cut). It is important that
the upper cut should be covered with the rooting medium because it is from this
cut that roots form.
As an alternative, the plastic sheet may be placed first on the stem with one end
tied just below the lower cut. The rooting medium is then inserted gradually and
the upper end of the plastic wrapping is tied securely to the stem. This technique
is more convenient and applies with any rooting medium which crumbles if not
held by the hand.
To prevent breaking of the stem with big and heavy rooting medium, it is tied to
another branch or to a stick attached to the parent plant.
In stems which are more or less erect, the rooting medium can be held by any
container such as broken or halved pots, cans or plastic cups with open top. For
big containers, a support is needed to prevent them from dropping.
In marcotting plants which easily form roots like san francisco or croton
(Codiaeum variegatum), relatively thick leaves can be used as funnel-shaped
container to hold the rooting medium in place.
A container can be made also with a relatively thick plastic sheet with the bottom
gathered and tied just below the lower cut and the top is expanded to form a
shape like that of a funnel. The sides are overlapped and stapled.
In plants which easily root like Ficus and croton or san francisco (Codiaeum
variegatum), this funnel-shaped container can be made out of some thick leaves.
The sides are secured in place by piercing with a stick. The container is then filled
with rooting medium which is kept moist by regular watering.
5. Separation of the Air Layer or Marcot From the Parent Plant
The rooted shoots are severed from the parent plant when plenty of roots have
developed. At this time the rooting medium becomes hard and rough when
touched. New shoots will also have sprouted from the portion of the stem
immediately below the rooting medium. In many plant species this occurs at least
15 days from marcotting.
6. Potting
The marcotted shoot is immediately potted into suitable container. The intensity
of care that will ensure the successful establishment of the layers will depend on
various factors such as size of the shoot, size of the rooting medium, and
profuseness of roots. For maximum survival, the newly potted layers are kept
under partial shade and high humidity.
Budding Fruit Trees and Ornamental Plants

Copyright © 2011 McGroarty Enterprises Inc.
Many plants can not be successfully rooted, or rooting them could be very
difficult. One of the accepted methods for propagating difficult to root plants is
budding. Budding is the art of taking a single bud from the plant that you would
like to grow, and slipping under the bark of a plant grown from seed. This
seedling is known as the rootstock.
The rootstock must be compatible with the plant that you are attempting to
reproduce. Typically Crabapples are budded onto a Crabapple seedling, Cherries
onto a cherry etc. But in some cases, plants that don't even seem like they would
be compatible are, and some really interesting plants are the result.
For instance, Lilacs can be successfully budded onto a privet rootstock, and
Cotoneaster Apiculata is often budded onto a Hawthorn rootstock. In this case the
resulting plant is very interesting. See the photo below.
Cotoneaster Apiculata in it's natural state only grows about 18" high, and it can be
a real nuisance in the landscape. It traps leaves, and the branches tend to root into
the ground as they grow, making it very difficult to trim or clean up around the
plant.
But when budded or grafted onto a Hawthorn rootstock, it makes a really

interesting, and beautiful plant.
Budding is another form of grafting, except with budding you do not attach a
small branch of the desired variety, you only insert a single bud under the bark of
the rootstock.
Budding is a mid to late summer project, usually around the end of July or the
beginning of August here in the northeastern United States. It is at this time of the
year that the bark of the young trees will slip. In other words, the bark is somewhat
loose from the tree and a bud can be slipped between the bark and the cambium
layer. To fully understand what part the the cambium layer plays in this process,
you should first visit the page on grafting, just click here.
Budding is easier than grafting and is used quite often in the nursery industry.
Almost all Flowering Crabapples and Dogwoods are propagated through the
budding.
The rootstock is grown from seed using the techniques described on the Growing
Plants from Seed page. Once the rootstock reaches 1/4” in diameter, the budding
is done. A small ‘T’ shaped cut is made in the bark of the root stock, the bark is
gently pulled away from the cambium layer with a knife, but only enough to allow
a single bud to be slipped under the bark.
In the above photo you can see where this "T" shaped cut was made. The bark has
been opened up a little so you can see where the bud is to be inserted. The top of
the "T" is toward the top of the rootstock. Remember, a rootstock is a small tree
seedling, and in most cases the seedlings are planted in the field, and the budding is
done right in the field, where the plant is actively growing. It is not dug up.
In most cases the bud is inserted in the stem, as close to ground level as possible.
However, with a weeping tree where the desired effect is a weeping canopy up
high, the budding is done about 6 feet from the ground.
The bud you are going to insert under the bark of the rootstock will be removed
from a branch of the variety you would like to grow. You can remove a small
branch from the desired variety. This branch is called a bud stick. This bud stick
can have as many as 20 or more usable buds on it.
After you have made the “T” cut in the rootstock and loosened the bark slightly,
you are ready to remove the desired bud from the bud stick. The bud is removed by
slicing into the branch under the bud you are removing. Almost like peeling an
apple, except you cut below the bark and remove a piece of bark along with the
cambium layer attached. The bud is still attached to the piece of bark and cambium
you remove. Do this carefully and do not cut into the bud and damage it. By the
same token, you don’t want to cut too deeply into the wood, just below the
cambium layer is good.
Each bud has a leaf attached to it. Pinch the leaf off but leave the leaf stem, this
stem will serve as a handle as you work with the bud. If you have 100 different
crabapple rootstocks that you grew from seed, you can grow many different
varieties of flowering crabapples by inserting different varieties of buds into these
rootstocks.
Looking very closely at the above photo, this is a bud as it is removed from the
branch of the plant you are trying to reproduce. The stem I am holding is the
petiole, which attaches the leaf to the branch. The leaf has been removed for easier
handling, and it is not needed when you insert the bud into the rootstock. Looking
very closely, the frayed tissue at the top of the bud should be trimmed off before
the bud is inserted.
If you look closely at this photo, in the area where the petiole attaches to the bark,
you can see the single bud that contains all the genetics of the plant your are trying
to reproduce. All of the magic of your desired plant is contained in that little tiny
bud. Kind of amazing, isn't it?
In the above photo you can see exactly how the bud is going to be slipped under
the bark of the rootstock. Make sure you put it in right side up. The bud is
pointing toward the sky.
I know that sounds really elementary, but a few years ago I had my son and my
nephew potting some bare root Japanese Maples. The plants were dormant, and
about 12" tall, as I was walking by I noticed two plants that were upside down.
The tops were buried in the pots, and roots were sticking up in the air!
They knew better, they were just yakking away and not paying any attention to
what they were doing. That's what you get when you hire cheap help!
As soon as the bud is removed from the parent plant it should be immediately
inserted under the bark of the rootstock.
In this photo you can see how the bud is slipped down into the
"T" cut, and using the tip of your knife you

can slide it all the way down into the slot.
Don't stick your knife near the bud itself,
just use it to gently catch the bark still
attached to the bud, and push it down into
the opening. The photo below shows the
inserted bud from another angle.

Once inserted, the bud union should be

wrapped securely with a rubber band so the
bonding process can begin. Nothing further should be
done this growing season. Just let Mother Nature take over
until spring.
When wrapping the rubber band, don't make it so tight that it cuts off the flow of
nutrients just under the bark. It should be pulled just tight enough to seal the
wound. Also be very careful not to wrap the rubber band near the bud itself.
Notice how I stayed away from the bud with the rubber band in the above photo.
Early in the spring, while the plant is still dormant, the rootstock should be cut off
just above the inserted bud. When the plant breaks dormancy the bud will begin to
grow into a plant identical to the parent plant.
As you can see from the above photo, it is important that the bud union be as close
to the ground as possible, because the bud union is not very attractive. However, if
kept close to the ground, it goes unnoticed at the base of the beautiful plant that
you've created. In this photo you can see that the rootstock has been clipped off,
and the bud has grown into the start of a small tree.
Looking at this photo, you can also see how and why some trees produce an
abundance of suckers around the base. This is really common with flowering
Crabapple trees. The suckers actually come from the rootstock, below the bud
union.It is important to note that the suckers will not have any of the characteristics
of the desired variety growing above the bud union. These suckers will be
identical to the rootstock, which is a hardy plant, but with few desirable qualities. I
point that out because a lot of people ask if they can propagate from these
suckers.
Budding is a much simpler form of grafting because you can do it during the
summer months and do not have to provide artificial heat, or protection for the
plant over the winter months. Budding does not work for all plants, but it is used
on a wide variety of fruit trees, crabapples, dogwoods, weeping cherries, and other
ornamentals.
A few years ago I saw a couple of people working in a field of nursery stock
owned by a friend of mine. I suspected they were budding, so I walked out to
watch how the pro's do it.
Method 1 of 5: T-Budding
Graft a Tree Step 1 Version 2.jpg
1. Choose your cultivar and your rootstock. In order for your budding to be
successful, you must cut a scion (small piece for grafting) from a healthy, disease-
free cultivar (origin tree) as well as a suitable growing tree (rootstock). For T-
budding, the bark of both trees must be "slipping." This means the bark is easily
peeled off and the green layer underneath is moist, which usually occurs in the
spring. Try irrigating them well to help them along.
T-Budding is typically used for fruit tree propagation.
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2.Cut a scion. For T-budding, you must cut into the branch 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) below
the bud to 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) beyond the bud. Make the cut as deep as needed to
include the soft, green layer beneath the bark but not any deeper. This green
material must be exposed on your scion for a successful graft. If you must store
your scion bud, wrap it in a damp paper towel, place it in a polyethylene bag, and
store it in a refrigerator.[1]

3. Make a T-cut on your rootstock. Choose a space on a branch or sapling that is
1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) to 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. The space must be free of any
buds, ideally far from any buds. Make a vertical slice in the bark about 1 inch (2.5
cm) long and deep enough to expose that green layer. Make a horizontal slice of
the same depth that is about one third the distance around the rootstock. Twist
the knife in the juncture of the slices to create flaps of the bark, making the green
layer visible.

4.Introduce the scion. Slip the scion containing the bud under the flaps you've just
created on the rootstock, taking care not to introduce any dirt or germs. If part of
the scion's bark sticks out above the T-cut, slice it off so that everything fits
together snugly.

5. Tie the scion to the rootstock. Wrap a stretchy rubber material such as grafting
rubber around the rootstock to hold the scion in place. Be careful not to jostle or
cover the bud.
6.Remove the tie. In about a month, the rubber you wrapped around the
rootstock may loosen and fall off. If it doesn't, gently remove it yourself so that
the area will not be constricted.
7. Follow up on your bud. If the bud looks plump and healthy, it is probably alive.
If it looks shriveled, then it has died and you'll have to start again.

8.Remove other material. The next spring, once the bud has begun to sprout
leaves, make a sloped cut 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) above the successful bud. Remove all
other side shoots below the bud. This will promote growth of the grafted bud
since it will be the only thing bing nourished by the rootstock.
Method 2 of 5: Chip Budding
1.Choose your cultivar and your rootstock. In order for your budding to be
free cultivar (origin tree) as well as a suitable growing tree (rootstock). In chip
budding, the diameters of the scion and the rootstock should be the same
diameter. If they're not, you'll have to cut them differently so that the green
layers match up when combined.
Chip Budding is one of the easiest ways to graft, and is particularly good for fruit
trees.

2.Cut a slice from your rootstock. Make a small angled cut about 1/5 to 1/4 the
rootstock's diameter into the rootstock. Slice your knife downward at this depth
for 1 1⁄4 to 1 1⁄2 inches (3.2 to 3.8 cm). Remove your knife without severing the
bark. Move the knife upward a small amount and then cut back in and downward
to meet the end of the initial slice to create a small notch. Remove the chunk of
bark from the rootstock.
3 .Cut a scion from your cultivar. Use the chunk cut from your rootstock as the
model for your scion, using the scion bud as the center point of the new cutting.
You want the scion to fit into the space made in the rootstock as neatly as
possible.

4. Introduce the scion to the rootstock. Slip the scion down into the notch at the
bottom of the rootstock cut. Make sure that the green layers of the scion and
rootstock are touching all the way around the edges. If they are not, the graft will
fail.
5.Secure the scion. Wrap a stretchy rubber material around the rootstock to hold
the scion in place. Polyethylene tape is preferable. Be careful not to jostle or
cover the bud.
6Remove the tie. In about a month, the rubber you wrapped around the
rootstock may loosen and fall off. If it doesn't, gently remove it yourself so that
the area will not be constricted.
7Follow up on your bud. If the bud looks plump and healthy, it is probably alive. If
it looks shriveled, then it has died and you'll have to start again.
8.Remove other material. The next spring, once the bud has begun to sprout
leaves, make a sloped cut 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) above the successful bud. Remove all
other growth below the bud to promote growth through the grafted bud.
Method 3 of 5: Whip Grafting

1Choose your cultivar and your rootstock. In order for your budding to be
free cultivar (origin tree) as well as a suitable growing tree (rootstock).
Whip grafting can only be used to join rootstock and scions that are the same
diameter, ideally between 1/4 and 1/2 inch in diameter.
The graft must be made after the threat of cold but before the bark of the stock
begins slipping (peels off easily).
The scion must be dormant (not sprouting) at this time, and should be a twig
about a foot long containing three to five buds.
2Prepare the scion. Remove the terminal end of the scion. At the base of the
scion, make a sloping cut to remove that end.
3Prepare the rootstock. Make a sloping cut across the chosen branch that mirrors
the one you made on the scion. They should fit together precisely.
4Cut tongues. Make matching slices down into both the rootstock and the scion in
such a way that they can hook into each other.
5Introduce the scion. Place the scion slightly offset from the rootstock and slide it
down so that the tongues overlap. Make sure that the layer of green wood
beneath the bark of both parties aligns or the graft will not take.
6Secure the scion. Wrap a stretchy rubber material around the graft site to hold
the scion in place. Grafting tape works well. If using a different material, be sure
to remove it in about a month.
7Look after the graft. Keep removing all growth below the graft except for leaf
spurs, which may be left on so that nutrients keep flowing up the tree until the
graft is successful.
Method 4 of 5: Bark Grafting

Graft a Tree Step 24.jpg
Scions should be up to three dormant, or not currently sprouting, twigs of about a
foot long containing three to five buds.
Rootstock should be straight, smooth, vertical branches 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm)
in diameter.
Bark grafts should be performed once the rootstock bark has begun slipping
(when the bark is easily peeled off in spring).
This graft is usually used for instances in which the rootstock is too big for whip
grafting.
2Amputate the rootstock. Above a crotch out of which several branches grow, cut
straight across one branch with a very sharp saw so as not to crack or rip the bark
or wood of the branch. Make sure you leave a branch nearby to keep nutrients
moving up the tree.

3Prepare the scions. Cut the scions down to around 5 inches (12.7 cm) in length
while still retaining about 5 buds per scion. Around three inches from the base of
the scion, make a sloping cut inward until you reach the base.

4Prepare the rootstock. Hold each scion up against the rootstock so that about 1⁄8
inch (0.3 cm) of the cut surface of the scion shows above the rootstock. With a
sharp knife, outline each scion on the rootstock. Remove the scions and finish
cutting away this bark so that each will fit snugly into its space.

5Introduce the scions. Place each scion in its space on the rootstock, taking
special care to ensure the green wood of both parties aligns exactly. Once in
place, hammer two wire nails into each scion to hold them into the tree.

6Seal the graft. Pour grafting wax or asphalt water emulsion over the area to seal
all cut surfaces from drying and bacteria. Check the seal again the next day to
make sure no holes have formed.

7Look after the graft. Keep removing all growth below the graft. Once one scion
shows more promise than the other(s), leave that one as is while pruning the less
successful graft(s). Two summers after grafting, remove all but the strongest
scion.
Method 5 of 5: Cleft Grafting
Scions should be two dormant, or not currently sprouting, twig of about a foot
long containing three to five buds.
Rootstock should be straight, smooth, vertical branches 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm)
in diameter.
Cleft grafts should be performed right before the bark of the rootstock starts
slipping (being easily peeled off) in spring.
This graft is usually used for top working (changing the type of fruit) of a mature
tree by being performed on a number of branches.
2Amputate your rootstock. Choose a point below which the branch is straight and
blemish-free for six inches and then make a clean perpendicular cut, removing the
rest of the branch. Be careful not to tear or split the branch or bark. Be sure to
leave a branch that has sprouted nearby to keep nutrients moving up the tree.
3Cleave your rootstock. Use a cleft-graft knife or a hatchet to split the branch
straight down the center for about 6 inches (15.2 cm).
4Prepare the scions. Remove the tip and the base of the scion. Beginning just
below the bottom bud, make a sloping cut on either side of the scion that reaches
all the way to the bottom.
5Insert the scions into the rootstock. Using a large screwdriver or small chisel to
hold open the cleft in the rootstock, insert a scion into either side of the cleft.
Make sure once again that the green layer of the wood, not the bark, is aligned.
No cut surface on the scion should be visible above the top of the rootstock.
6Seal the graft. Pour grafting wax or asphalt water emulsion over the area to seal
all cut surfaces from drying and germs. Check the seal again the next day to make
sure no holes have become exposed.
7Look after the graft. Keep removing all growth below the graft. Once one scion
shows more promise than the other, leave that one as is while pruning the less
successful graft. Two summers after grafting, remove all but the strongest scion .

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Learn Marcotting

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Marcotting or air layering, an asexual or vegetative method of plant propagation,

1. Plant and Shoot Selection

This is unique in marcotting. However, this procedure is skipped in bamboo and

5. Separation of the Air Layer or Marcot From the Parent Plant

Budding Fruit Trees and Ornamental Plants

But when budded or grafted onto a Hawthorn rootstock, it makes a really

"T" cut, and using the tip of your knife you

Once inserted, the bud union should be

Graft a Tree Step 2 Version 2.jpg

Graft a Tree Step 3 Version 2.jpg

Graft a Tree Step 4 Version 2.jpg

Graft a Tree Step 5 Version 2.jpg

Graft a Tree Step 8 Version 2.jpg

Graft a Tree Step 10 Version 2.jpg

Graft a Tree Step 12 Version 2.jpg

Method 3 of 5: Whip Grafting

Method 4 of 5: Bark Grafting

Graft a Tree Step 26.jpg

Graft a Tree Step 27.jpg

Graft a Tree Step 28.jpg

Graft a Tree Step 29.jpg

Graft a Tree Step 30.jpg

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