A P R ACTICAL TREATISE

ON T HE

M A N U FA CTU RE OF P ER EU M ER Y :
C OM P RISI NG

DI R E CT I ON S FOR M A KI N G ALL KI N DS OFP E RFUM E S S ACHET ,

P OWDE R S FU M I GA T I N G M A TE R I A LS DE N T I FR I CE S
, , ,

COS M ET I CS ETC ETC , , ,

WIT H A F U LL A C C OU NT OF THE

VO LA TIL E O ILS BALSAMS RES INS A N D O T H E R NATURAL

, , ,

A N D A RTI FI C I AL P ERFUME SU B S T ANCES I N C L UD I N G -

,

THE MANUFAC TURE OF F RU I T E T H ERS A N D ,

TES TS OF TH E I R P U R ITY
‘

B R A D D E I T E,
.

AS S I S T ED B Y F E I C H B A UM E
.
,
. K U GLER ,

H . TO A N D OT HE R EX P E R T S .

E GE RM A N BY

W LI AM T AN N T
. BR ,

T E CH NO CH E M I C A L R E C E I PT B OOK
”
E D ITOR OF E - -
.

I LLU S TR A TED Y TWEN TY EIGHT EN GR A VIN GS. -

HILADELP HIA
P
H EN R Y C AR EY B AIR D
I N DU ST R I A L P U BL I S H E R S B OO K S EL LER S A N D
,
IM P O R TER S ,
8 10 WALNU T S TR EE T .

1 8 92 .
 C OP R Y I GHT BY

H ENR Y CA R EY B AI RD CO
.

1 89 2 .

P NT E D
R I A T THE C O L LI N S P R I N TI N G H OU S E ,

705 Jay n e S t r e et ,

P H I L A D E L PH I A U S A
,
. . .
 P R EF A C E .

A TR AN S L A T I ON of t he p o r t io n of t he

Ha nd b u c h d er P a r fu m e ri e -
u nd T o i l e t t e s c if
e nfa b rik a t i o n,
”
e d it e d by D r C D EI T E ,
. . r el a t

i ng t o p erfu m e ry and c o s met ic s i s p re s e nt e d t o ,

t h e E n g li s h re a d ing p u b l i c W it h t h e ful l c onfi

d ence t h a t i t W il l no t o nl y fi l l a u s e fu l p l a ce
—
in t e chni c al l it e ra t u r e b u t w il l a l s o p r o v e fo r
,

—
Wha t i t i s ch ie fl y i nt end e d a r e a d y b o ok o f
r efer en c e a n d a
p r a c t i c a l h el p a nd g u i d e fo r

t h e p erfu me r s a b o r a t o r y T he na m e s o f t h e
l
’
.

e d it o r a nd h i s c o w o rk ers a re a s u ffi c ie nt
-

gu a rant y o f it s valu e and p ra ct ic al u s eful nes s ,

t h e y a ll b eing ex p e ri e nce d m en w el l s ch o o l e d ,

ea ch I n t h e p a r t i c u l a r b ran ch o f t h e i n d u s t r y ,

t h e t r eat m e nt O f whi ch h a s bee n a s s i gne d t o

hi m .

Th e m o s t s u it a ble and a pp rov e d fo rm u l ae ,

t es t e d by ex p er ie nce , h a ve b een g iven ; and

iv PREFACE .

s p e ci a l a t t e nt io n h as b e en p a i d t o t h e d es cri p

t io n of the ra w m a t eri a l s , as wel l as t o the

v a ri o u s m et h o d s of t e s t ing t h em , t h e l at t er
b e in g of s p e ci a l i mp o rt an ce , s i nce in no o t h e r

i n d u s t ry ha s t he m anu fa c t u rer t o c o nt e n d w it h
s u ch gr o s s a nd u ni v er s al a d u l t er a t i o n o f ra w

m a t e ri al s .

I t i s h o p e d t hat t he a d d i t i o ns m a d e h e re a nd

t h er e by t he t rans l at o r a s w ell , as the p o rt i o n

r e l a t in g t o t h e m anu fac t u r e o f F r u it E t he r s ,
a d d e d by hi m m a y co nt ri b u t e
,
t o t h e i nt ere s t

a n d u s e fu nes s o f l t h e t re at i s e .

F ina l l y , i t re m a ins on ly to be s t at e d t ha t

w it h t he ir u s u al l ib eral i t y t he p u b l is hers ha ve
,

s p a re d n o e x p en s e in t h e p ro p e r i l l u s t ra t i o n

a n d t h e m e ch a n ical p ro d u c t i o n Of t h e b o o k ;

a nd a s i s t h e i r u ni v e rs a l p r a c t i ce h a v e c a u s e d
, ,

i t t o b e p ro v i d e d w i t h a c o p i o u s t a b l e o f c o n
t e nt s a n d a v e ry fu l l i n d e x wh i ch w i ll a d d ,

a d d i t i o na l v a l u e by r e n d e rin g a n y s u bje c t i n i t

e a s y a nd p r o m p t o f re fer e n c e .

W T B . . .

P H I LA D E LP H I A ,
M a
y 2 ,
1 8 9 2 .
 C ON T EN T S .

CH A PT E R I .

HIS TO RIC AL NOT OF P ICE ER F UM E R Y .

PA GE
C onsu mp t i on of p erfu me - su b st a nce s by t he ear l y n at o ns o f i
the Or ie nt
P e r fum e- s u b st a nces as an Offer ing t o th e g o d s a nd t h e r u s e i
for e m b al m ing t he d ea d ; A r ts o f t he t oil et in a nc ent t mes i i
P e r fu m e- s u b s t a nces b y t h e He b r e w s ;
u se d Ol ib a nu m a nd

t he mod e of
g a in i n
g i t i n a ncie nt t m es , i as d e scr ib e d by
Her o d otus
P liny s accou nt
’
of Oli b anu m
P r act ice o f a no i nt ing t he i
e nt r e b od y cus t omar y am o ng th e
a nc i e nt s ; T h e h ol y Oi l p r e s cr ibe d b y M o s es ; Or ig in of

th e s w ee t- s c e nt e d o i nt m e nt m yr o n ”

Lu x i
ur ou s u s e o f o i nt m e nts i n A t h e ns , a nd t he i
s p e c a l O nt i
m e nt s us e d for e ach p ar t of t he b o d y ; I n t r o d u c t io n o f
o i nt me nt s in R o me , a nd e d ict r oh i b it i n t h e sa l e O f for
p g
ei
g n o int m e nt s ; P l u t a r ch on t he e xt ra va
g a nt u s e of Oint

m e nt s i n R o me
A nc ient b o ok s cont aining d ir ect i ons for p re
p ar n i g i
o nt ment s
D ir ect i o ns for ros e O nt i m e nt , a cc or d i n
g t o D i o s c or i d e s
A nc i ent p r oce ss o f d is t il l ing v ol a t il e Oil s ; D ios cor i d e s s d ir ce
’

t io ns for ma ki i ma l f t s
ng a n a s u it a b l e for t h e r ece t io n o f
p
p e r fu m es ; C on u mp t i on o f
s
p er fum e- s u b s t ances by t h e
a nc e nt i ;RC oo m an s
nd i t i o n o f t h e a nc e nt Oin t m e nt m a er s i - k
i i
U s e of r e d a nd w h t e p a nt s , h a ir d ye s , a nd d e p il at or ies b y -

t h e R om a n s
vi CON T EN TS .

PA G E

P ecul iar s u b st ance for cl e ans i ng th e t e et h us e d by the R o man

l a d ies ; P e rfu m er i e s a nd c os m et ics i n t h e M i d dl e A g e s ;
i
R e ce p t s for c osm e t ics i n t h e w r it ings of A r ab ia n p h ys i
i
e au s , a n d o f Gu y d e C h a nl i o s

Gi o v a nni M ar i n e l l o s
’
w or k on
“
Cos m et i cs for L a d ie s In
t r o d u c t io n of the a rts o f th e t o il e t i nt o F r ance , b y C a t her
i ne d e M e d ici and M ar
g ar e t Of V al oi s
x
E t r a v a ga nt u s e o f co s m e t ics in F r a nc e fr o m th e c o m m e nce

m e nt of th e s e v e nt e e nth t o the mi d dl e of t h e e igh t e e nt h

ce nt u r y

I mp or t a n c e of t h e p er fu mer s cr a ft i n F r a nce ; C hi e f
’
s ea t s

of t h e F r e nch p e r fu m e r y i nd us t r y

P ri vil eg e s Of t h e p a rf u meu r a g a n ti e r s i n F ra nce ; U se of

p er fu m e s in Engl a nd ; A ct of P a r l ia m e nt p r ohi b it ing t he

us e Of e r fu m e r i es , fa l s e h a ir , e tc , fo r d ece iv in a ma n
p g .

a nd i nv e igl ing h i m i nt o ma t r im ony

C H APT E R II .

THE P E R F UM E- M A T E R I A L S F O R T H E MAN U F A C T U RE
O
F P E R F UM E R Y .

D er i va t io n Of t h e p e r fu me- su b s t ances ; A nim al s u b s tances

u s ed; Occur r e nce of v o l a t il e oil s i n p l a nt s
F a m ili e s o f p l a nt s r ich e s t l n Oil ; C e nt r a l Eu r op e t h e a ctu a l
fl o w er gar d en Of t h e p e r fu mer ; P r i ncip al l oc a l iti es fo r t h e
i
c u l t v a t i on of p l a nt s

V ol a t il e O il s a nd t h e i r pr op er t ie s

P r i ncip al d iv is io ns o f v o l a t il e Oil s

C o ns t i t u t i o n of t er p e ne s ; C o nce nt r a t e d v ol a t i l e Oi ls
M o d es of
g a i ni n
g v ol at i le i l o s x
; E pr es s io n
C l ar i fi ca t ion Of t h e Oil

i
F l t e r for cl ar i fying t h e Oil , il l u s t r a t e d a nd d e s cr ib e d
D is t il l a tio n
A p p a ra tu s for d et er m in ng t he p e rce nt ag e i o f v ol a t il e Oil a

v e e t a b l e s u b s t a nc e w ill
g y i
el d , i l l u s t r a t e d a nd d e s cr i b ed
V a r i o us s t il l s fo r t h e d i s t ill a t io n Of v ol a t i le o il s , ill ust ra t ed
a nd d es crib e d
 CON T EN TS . vi i
PA G E

D is t i l l at i on of v ol a t il e o il s b y m ea ns of h ot a ir ; S e p ar a t io n
of t h e Oil a nd w a t er ; F l or e nt i ne fl ask s ill u s tra t e d a nd

d e s cr ib e d
S ep ar a t o r fu nnel , ill u s tr a t e d
- a nd d escr ib e d
x
E tr ac t io n
V a r io u s a
pp ar a t u s es for e xt i
r a ct o n , il l u s tr at e d an d d e s cr ib e d
He yl ’
s d is t il l ing
pp a ar a t u s

M a cer a t i o n o r infu s i o n ; P o ma d e s ; P ur i fi ca t i o n Of t h e fa t s

us e d i n t h e m a ce r a t i o n p r o cess

Hu i l es a nti q u es Ol d F r e nch p r oces s of m a cer a t io n ; P iv er

’
s

m a ce r a t i o n ppa ar a t u s , ill u s t r a t e d a nd d e s cr i b ed
F l o w e r s for w h i c h m a c e r a t io n i s em l
p yo ed ; A b s or p t i o n or

ea fl eu r a g e

A p p ara t us e s for a b s or p t i on, il l us t ra t e d a n d d e s cr ib e d

F l ow e r s for w hich t h e a b s or p t i on p r o ce s s i s e m pl oye d S t or
a e o f v ol at i l e O l s
g i

CH APT E R III .

T ES T V O LA T
IN G I LE O I LS .

x
E t e ns iv e a d ul ter at io n o f v o l a t il e Oil s ; T e s t in
g v o l a t il e Oil s

as to o d or a nd t a st e
R eco
g nit i o n Of a n a d ul t e r a t i o n w ith fa t Oil

D et ect i on o f a l c o h ol or s
p i r it Of w ine D r a g e nd or ff ’
s t est
Hager ’
s t a n mn t e s t
D e t e ct i o n m ; D e t e ct io n of b e n ine
o f ch l or o fo r z
Q ua nt ita tive d et er m inat ion of ad ul t er at ions w ith a l c oh o l

c hl or o for m , a nd z
be n i ne
D e t ect io n of a d ul t er at i o ns w i t h t er p e ne s or t er p e ne- li k e fl u id s
D e t ect io n o f a d ul t er a t i ons w i th v ol a t il e o il s of a l o w er q u alit
y;
T e s t w it h i o d ine

H opp e ’
s n it r o
p r u ss id e Of co
pp e r t es t
T a b l e s h o w ing t h e b e h a v io r Of v o l a t i l e o il s fr e e fr o m o x yg en

t o w ar d s ni tr o p ru ss id e of co
pp er
Ha g er ’
s a l co h ol a nd s ul
p hur i c a ci d t e s t Hager ’
s g ua ia cu m
r eac t o n i
vii i CON T EN T S .

PA G E

D i v i s i on of t he v ol at i l e Oi l s w it h r e fe r e nce t o t h e gu aiacu m
r e ac t i o n

Hii b l ’
s i o d i n e m e t h od
A . Kr e me l
’
s t es t by t it r a t i o n or s a p o nifica t i n O w it h a l c o h ol c i
p o t a sh l ye
U t i li z a t ion of M au m e né ’
s t e st b yF R Willi m
. . a s

P l a nch o n ’
s
p ro
p os e d
p r oce d u r e for t h e r eco
g i
ni t o n of a

v ol at i le Oil

CH AP T E R I V .

T HE V O LAT I L OL U D
E I S SE IN P E R F UM E R Y .

A ca cia Oil o r Oil o f c a ss e i

; A l m o nd o il ( b it t e r )
A d ul t e r a t io ns o f Oil O f b i t te r a l m o nd s a n d t h e ir d e te ct i on
A ng elica Oil

A i
n s e- s ee d Oil

S t ar a ni s e O il

B alm ; B as iOil
l Oil ; B a
y b e r r
y Oil ,
o r O il o f b a
y l e av es

B er ga m ot oil ; T e s t ing b erg a m ot Oil a s t o i ts p ur t y i

Ca j e
p u t oil

C a m o m il e or ch a m om il e o il ; Bl ue ca mo mil e o il ; Gr e e n
ca mo m il e oil

C ara w a y Oil ; R e c o
g n t i o nio f t h e p u r it
y Of ca ra w a y Oil

C e d ar Oil C h er ry- l aur el Oil

D e t ect i o n o f o il o f m ir b a ne i n ch er r y l au r e l - oil i
; C nna m o n
Oil s C e yl on c i nna m on Oil

C a ss ia Oil

C innamo n -r o o t Oil a nd Oil o f c inn a m on l e av e s Q u a nt it at iv e

d e t e r m ina t io n o f c i nna m al d ehyd e i n c a s s ia Oil

D e t ect i on o f a d ul t e r a t i on s in c a s s i a oil ; Cit r o n o il

D et ect io n o f a d u l t er a t i o ns in c it r o n Oil ; C it r o ne ll a Oil ; D e

t e ct io n o f a d u l t e r a t io n s in C it r o ne l l a Oil

Oil o f c l ov e s

T e s t fo r t h e v al u e o f o il of c l ov e s

Euca l yp t u s Oil

F e nnel Oil
 C ON T EN T S . 1X

PA G E
Ger a n i um Oil ,
p al mar osa Oil , T ur ki hs
g er an u m i Oil ; Ea st
Ind ia n g er aniu m Oil
; F r e nc h a n d A fr ic a n
g e r a ni u m Oil s 1 12

A d ul te r at io ns of
g e r a ni um o i l s ; J a s m ne o il , o r O il o f i j es sa

m ine
J u nip e r Oi l

L a v e nd er Oil ; S pi k e Oil

D e t ect io n of a d ul te r a t o ns i of l a v e nd e r Oil ; Le m on Oil ;

S p o nge p r oce ss of o b ta ini ng l e m on Oil

Ecu ell e pr o cess

D is t i ll a t ion ; A p p ar at u s co m b i ning th e é c ue l le a nd d is t ill i ng
r oc e s s e s , i ll u s tr a t e d a nd d e s c r i b e d
p
A d ult e ra t io ns o f Oil Of l e m on s a nd t h e ir d e t ec t io n : Lil ac
Oil ; O i l o f li m es

L ica r i O il , linal oe Oil ; M a r j ora m Oil s ; S p a n sh mar i j or a m o il

M i g no ne tt e Oil ; M yrr h Oil

N u t me
g Oil s ; M a ce O il ; A d ul ter a t i o ns Of m ace Oil a nd t he ir

d e t e ct io n
Op op a na x Oil ; Or a n
g e p e el - o il , P o rtu
g al o il or esse nce of

P or t u al ; M a nd a r i n o il
g
Or a ng e- fl o w er o il or ner ol i Oil ; N e ro li P or t u al Oil Cu l t i
g ;
v at io n o f the or a n
g e on t h e F r e nch R iv i e r a a nd
y i el d Of

o ra n
g e b l o s s o ms ; C har act e r s t ic s i o f Oil o f or a ng e fl o w ers
A d ul te ra t io ns of n er o li Oil a n d t he ir d e t ec t i o n

P e ti t—
gra i n Oil ; Oil Of o rr is r oo t

P a t ch o ul i Oil

V ar ie t i es a nd c h a r a ct e r i s t cs o f
p i a t ch o ul i o il

P e p p er mint Oil ; O il o f cur l e d mint ; P ep p er mi nt o il a nd it s

v a r ie t ie s

A m e rica n O il s of e
p pp er m nt i of h igh r e p ut a t i o n ; M od e of

d i st i ngu ishing A m e r ican , G e r man, an d Engl ish O i ls of

e e r m int
p pp
A d ul t er a nt s of e
p p p e r mi nt Oil a nd t he i r d e t ect i on
P ol e Oil
y
P im e nt o oil or Oil of al l s
p i c e ; R o s e Oil or a t t ar of I OS Q S
‘ ‘

i
P r inc p al l ocal t ies i of i t s p r o d uct i on ; S ch i mm e l Co s .
’

of L ei z ic , G e r man ,
p y e xp er im e nt to O bt ai n o il fr o m in
d ige nou s r os e s
X CON T EN TS .

PA G E

T he r o s e- O il i nd u s tr
y i n B u l ar i a
g M e th od s of
g a t h er n i g a nd

d ist ill i ng t h e r os e s

C har ac t er i i
f p ur e r os e Oi l
s t cs O

j
M an ner of u d g ing t h e g e nu ine ne s s of r os e o il ; P r oce ss for
t h e i ns u l a t i o n a nd d e t e r m in at i o n of s t e a r op t e ne i n r o se Oil

A d u l t e r a t io n o f r o s e o il w it h in er- ras s Oil

g g g
T e s t fo r t he a d u l t e r a t i o n o f r ose Oil i
w i t h g ng er- g r a ss o il e m
l o e d i n B u l a r ia
p y g
A d ul t e r a nt s o f r o s e Oil

T es t s for ro s e Oil
; A pp r o xim at e q u an t i t a t i v e d e t e r m in a t i on

o f s e r ma ce t i in r o s e Oi l
p
R ; D e t e ct io n o f a d ul t er a t io n s i n r o s e m ar y Oil
o s em a r y Oil

R o s e w oo d Oil o r r h o d iu m o il ; S a nd a l- w o o d Oi l ; S a ss a fr as
O il ; C h a r ac te r is t ics o f s a ss afr as Oi l

T hyme Oil

Oi l of t u r p e nt i ne ; A u s t r ia n o i l Of t ur p e nt i n e ; Ge r ma n Oil

Of t u r p e nt in e ; F r e nch Oil Of t ur p e nt ine ; V e ne tia n Oil o f

t u rp e nt ine

A m e r ican o il of t ur p e nt i ne ; P i ne O il D w ar f p ine Oil ;

;
K r u m m h ol z
L at s che n o e l ; P i ne-
or l e a f Oil ; l e m plin O il
' ‘

( Ki e n o e l ); B a l s a l m-
p ine Oil

Oil of v e r b e na ; Oil o f v i ol e t V it iv er t or v e t-iv er Oil

Wint ergr ee n Oil

B ir ch Oil ; A rti fi ci a l
p re
p a r a t io n Of m e t hyl sa l c
yil a te

A d ul t e r at i on Of W i nt ergr e e n Oil a nd it s d e t ect io n ; Y l a ng

yl an
g Oil

C a na nga Oil

CH APT E R V .

RES I N S A N D B A LSA MS .

El e me nt a r y c ons t it u ent s o f r es ins ; D ivis i on of r e s ns i

r e s i ns S o ft i
r e s ns or b al s a ms ; G um r esi ns -

D i ffus i o n of r e s ins i n t h e v eg e t a b l e k ing d o m ; B en z oi n

V ar i e t i e s of b e nz o in a nd t h e ir ch a r ac t er s t ics i
P er u b a l s am a nd mod e Of O b taini ng it
White P er u b al sa m
 CON T EN T S . xi

PA G E
Char act er s t ics i of P er u b a l s am
A d ul t e r ant s of P er u b al s am a nd th e i r d e t e c t i on
T o l u b a l sa m a nd its c har ac t e r is t ics

A n e w v ar ie t y o f T olu b a l s a m
S t or a x Li q u i d s t or a x and it s ch ar a ct er s t ic s i
A d ul t er at i on Of l iqu id st o r a x a nd i t s d et ect i on
S t or a xi n
g r a in s Ord inar y s t or a x
A m er ica n s t or a x ,
w hi t e P er u b al sa m ,
w h it e I nd i a n b al sa m ,

or li q u id - a m b ar ; M yrrh
M yrrh a el ect a a nd i t s c har a ct e r s t ic s i
C ons t it u t io n of m yrr h
A d ul t er at i o n Of myrr h a nd i ts d e t ect ion
O p o p a na x; Ol ib a nu m or k
fr an incens e
C omm ercial v a r i e t i e s o f Ol i b a num ; S a nd ar ac a nd it s c h a ra c

t er is t ics

CH APT E R V I .

P R F UM
E U TAN F RO M H AN MA L N D O M
E- S BS C ES T E I KI G .

M us k d it i t i ; M k
an s v ar eil l t t d d d
es ib d us s a cs , us r a e an e s cr e

C h a r ac t i ti f T ki m k
er s cs O on n us

M us k f th A m i m k — t
O e b tit t f g i
er can us ra a s a su s u e or e nu ne

musk
Ot h er p o s s ib l e s u b s t it u t e s for t h e mu s d eer k - A r ti fi c ia l mu s k
A d ul t e r a t i ons o f mu sk a nd t he ir d e t ec t i on
Civ et
C a s t or a nd it s va r i e t e s i
A d u l t e r a t i o ns o f ca s t o r ; A mb e rgr is
i
C ons t tu e nt s of am b ergr is
A d ul ter at i ons of a mb er ri s
g

CH APT E R V II .

A R T I F I C I A L PE RF U M E- MA T E R IA LS .

C onv er s i on o f Oil o f t ur p e nt ine i nt o Oi l o f l e m ons b y B ouch

ar d at and L afo nt
Cu mar i n, i ts o cc urr e nc e a nd
p ro
p er t esi
xi i CON T ENTS .

V a r iet ie s of t on k a b eans fou nd in co mmer ce

P re
p i
a r a t o n o f cu m ar in fr o m t o n k a b e a ns A rt i fi c i al p re
p a

r a t o n Of cu
i m ar i n fr o m s a licyl ic a ci d

S y nt he t ical p r e p ar a t on o f cu m ar in i Hel iotr op i n or i

p pe
r o na l a nd i t s ch a r ac t er is t ics

P re a r a t i on o f h e l i o tr o p i n
p
Va nil l in ; C ha r ac t er s t ics of t h e v a nil l ai
ifi
A r t c ial p r e p ar at o n of v a nil l i n i
i
C h ar act er s t ics Of v a nill i n
A d ul t er a t i on o f v a nill i n , a nd i t s d e t ect i on ; N itr ob e n ol z
C har act er is t ic s of ni t r o b enz ol or Oil Of m ir b a ne ; a d ul t e r a

t io n o f n it r o b e n z ol a nd it s d e t ect i o n
F r uit e t h er s a n d t he i r ch a r a c t e r is t ics

A ce t ic a myl e t h er o r a myl it s p r e p ar a ti on
a ce t a t e , a nd u se

A c e t i c e t h er o r e th yl ace t a t e a nd it s r e ar at io n
p p
B en zi
o c e th e r or e t h
y l b e nz oat e a nd it s pr ep ar a t i on
B u t yr ic e th yl e t he r o r e th l b u t ra t e ; P r e ar a t i on o f b u t
y y p y
r c ac i id
P re
p ar a t i o n o f b ut yric e th e r

S t J oh n s
.
‘
’
br e ad o r c ar o b as m at er ia l for t h e pr e p ar a t i o n of
b u tyr ic e t h er

F or m ic y l e t h er , or e t h l for m a t e a n d i t s
eth
y r e ar a t o n
p p i
N it r o u s e t h er or e th yl nitr a t e a nd i t s p r e p ara t io n a cc or d ing
t o K op p s m e t h o d
’

P re
p a r a t i o n a n d u s e Of n it h er in Engl a nd a nd A m e r ca
r ou s et i
V a l e r i a nic yl am e t h e r Or a m l v al er a t e a nd i ts
y r e a r a t ion
p p
V a l e r ian ic e t h yl e t h er ; A
pp l e e t h er ; A
p r ico t e t he r ; C h e rr
y
ether ; P e ar e t her ; P i ne a p p l e e t h er ; S t r a w b e rr
y e t h er ;

P re ar at i o n of fru it esse nc es A p p l e e ss e nce ; A p r icot

p
e s s ence

Ch e r r y e ss e nce ; C u rr a nt es se nce Gr a p e e s s ence ; L e mo n

e ss e nce ; M e l o n e s s e nce ; Ora nge e s s enc e ; P e ach ess e nce ;
P e ar e ss e nc e ; P i n e app l e e s s e nce ; P l um ess e nce

R as
p b e rr
y esse nce ; S t r aw b err y e ss e nc e
 CONT EN T S . x i ii

CH APT E R V I II .

A L OHOL
C P IC E R F UM E S .

PA G E

D i v is i o n Of a l c o h ol ic
p er fu mes ; What c o ns t it u t e s the art

of t h e p er fu m e r ; Q ua lit ies of fl o w e r- p o m a d es a nd t he i r

d es ig na t io n
S t or ag e of fl o w er -
; pEo m ad es
t r a c t i o n o f fl o w e x
r- o m a d e s
p
k
A pp ar a t u s fo r m a i ng a l c o h ol ic e t r a ct s fr o m fl o w e r- p o m x
a d e s , ill u s t r a t e d a nd d esc r ib e d

B eye r fr er e s m p r ov e d i a
pp a r a t us , i llu st r a t e d a nd d e s cr ib e d
Tinc tu r e s a nd e x tr a ct s a n d t h e ir p r e p ar a t io n

B e ye r fr eres pp a ar a tus for t h e p r e p a r a t i o n of ti nctur e s , ill us

t r a t e d a nd d e s c r i b e d
M us k ti nct ur e ; C i ve t t i nct ur e
A m b er g ris t i nct u r e ; C a s t or t i nc t ur e ; B e n o in t i nct ur e z °

P er u b a l s a m t inc t u r e ; T o l u b a l s a m t inct ur e
Ol ib a nu m t inct ur e ; O p o p ana x t i nc tur e ; S t o ra x t i nct ur e ;
M yrr h t inc t u r e ; M u s se e d k - or a b e l m o sk t i nctu r e
A n e lica r o o t t i nct ur e
g ; Orr is -r oo t t i nc t u r e ; M us k -r oo t or

su mb ul -
r oot t inc t ur e ; T on k a- b e a n t inct ur e
C u mar in t inct u r e ; He liot r o p in t inc t ur e ; V a nil l a t inct ur e ;
V a nill in t inct ur e
V it iv er t t inc t ur e ; J unip er b err y t i nct ur e ; P a tch o u li e t r act
-
x
T i nct ur e s fr o m v o l a t il e Oil s ; A l m o nd o il ( b i tt e r ) t i nct u re ; -

B a l m- Oil t i nc t ur e ; B erga m o t- oil t i nct u re ; C a na ng O- Oil

t inct ur e

C a ss ia - Oil t inc t ur e ; C e d ar - o il i
t nc t ur e ; C i nnamo n Oil - t i nc
t ur e ; C it r one l l a -
Oil i
t nc t ur e ; C l o ve -o il t i nc t ur e ; Eu ca l yp
t us- Oil i
t nct u r e ; Gera n i um - o il t i nc t ur e ; L a ve nd e r- Oil
t inct ur e ; L e m o n- gr a ss- o il t i nctu r e ; L e m o n-o il t inct u r e ;
L icar i —
Oil t inc t ur e ; M yrrh- Oil t inct ur e ; N e r ol i Oil t inc -

tur e ; O p o p a na x - Oil i
t nc tu r e ; Orris -r o o t- Oil t i nct u r e ;

P a tch oul i- o il t in ct ur e
—
'

P e t it-
g r a in Oil t i nc t ur e ;
P i ne -l e a f o il t inc t u r e
; P o r tug al Oils -

i
t nct ur e ; S a nd al - w o od Oil t i nc t ur e ; V er b e na- o il t i nct u r e ;
-

V it i v er t- Oil t i nct ur e ; Wi nt er gr e e n Oil t inctu r e ; Y l a ng -

yl a n
g
- o il
t i nctu re ; R o se- Oil i
t nc t ur e
xi v CO N T EN TS .

PA G E
x i
E tr a t s fl au x ; Ex t i t eu r s i ; Ex t i t ra i ; Ex t it
a c ac a ra c a ss e ra

h é li t p ; E t i t j i th
o ro e x ra ac n e

Ex t it j mi ; E
ra as n f th d
ss e nc ef li d o bl e m ;
o or o n en os so s

E x t i t j q il l ; E x t it m g l i ; Ex t it m g t
ra on u e ra a no a ra u ue

l
( y i l f toh ll y )e va
; E x t i t
e fl d M i ( Mra
y fl )
e urs e a a ow ers

E t it i
x ra ; E x
x or at i t g ; E x t
ra i t w h it
or an e; E x t i t ra e r os e ra

r os e v d . t if li ; E x t i t i l t t ; C l
. ce n o e i g
ra b t
v o e e o or n su s a nce

f or e x t it ; E x t it d V i l t t d P m
ra s ra e o e e e ar e

Ex t i t t b
ra u ; E x t i t é é d ; Ex t it yl
er e u s e ra r
g ysl g; a ra an -
an

C mp o d dou n
( b o q t );
or s E x t i t E
ou d l w
ue s i ; E x t it ra e e ss ra

e ss- b q t ou ue

E x t it p i g fl w ; Ex t i t b q t E g i ; E x t it
’

ra s r n o er ra ou ue u en e ra

x l i ; Ex t it F gip i ; Ex t it j k y l b
e ce s o r ra ran an ra oc e c u

Ex t i t p p
ra O x ; Ex t i t p t h l i ; Ex t it mill fl
o an a ra a c ou ra e e u r sn

Ex t i t b q t V i t i
ra ou ue c or a

E x t i t k i m q i k ; Ex t i t m g d
ra s s- c- u c Ex t ra t b q t
o a or e ra c ou ue

P i r nce A l b t ; Ex t it m er ; Ex t it ra w m w us e h y ra ne - o n a
'

E x t it hyp ra c re

E x t i t m é h l ; E x t it m
ra ar c a li ; Ex t i t t i p l
ra o us s e ne ra s r e co n

t é
ce n r s a n d th i p p ti
e r re ar a o ns

C t t d fl w
o nc e n r a e — xt o t f th
er e t
r ac i f or x t i t e re ar a on o e ra s
p p
d Od ; Ex t it d Od q l ity 11
’ ’
e ur s ra s e ur s , ua

E x t it i l t t I I ; E t i t
ra v o e e II ; E x t it é é d I I
x ra r o se ra r s a
'

E x t it y l g y l g I I
ra an -
an

Ex t it ra w m w
ne h y I I ; Ex t it h yp
- o n a I I ; E x t it ra c re ra e ss

b q t II
ou ue

E x t it m g t I I ; Ex t it b q t V i t i I I ; Ex t it
ra u ue ra ou ue c or a ra

s
p r i ng fl o w er II E x t r a it i x or a I I
x
E t r a it F r a ng ip a n i I I ; C ol og ne w a t er (
eau d e C ol og ne ) a nd

it s p r e p a r a t io n
D u r a b il i t y of the v o l a t il e o il s us ed i n t h e p r ep a r a t i o n of

C ol og ne w a t er

C ol ogne w a t e r , q u al it
y I
C ol og ne w a t er , q al ity I I ; C l g
u o o ne w at e r , q u a li t y III ;
C ol og ne w a t er , q lit y I V ; C l g
ua o o ne w at e r , q u a l it y V
M ai
g l o ckch en e a u d e C ol o ne ;
g Va r i ou s ot h er r e ce i p t s for
C ol og ne w at er
 CON T EN T S . XV

PAG E
Ea u d e L a v a nd e ; Ea u d e v ie d e L a v a nd e d o u b l e am br é e ;
Eau d e La v a nd e d ou b l e A q ua m el l is ; Ea u d e L is b o nne

CH APT E R IX .

DR Y P ER F UM E S .

U s e of d r y p e r fu m e s in a nc ie nt t im e s ; S a c h e t p o w d er s a nd

t h e ir r e a r a t io n
p p
S a ch e t a l a ; S a ch e t a l a
r os eV io l e t t e ; He l i o t r o
p e sac h e t

p o w d e r ; Y l a ng yl a ng s a c h e t p o w d e r ; J o c e y c l u b s a ch e t
- k
S a c he t a u x m ille fl e u r s ; L il y of t h e v a l l e v s a c h et p o w d e r ;
P a tc ho ul i sa ch e t
p o w d er ; F r a ng ip a m s a c he t
p o w d er ;
V ic t or ia p s ach e t ow
p d er ; R é éd s a s a c he t o w d er

M us k
s ac he t
p o w d e r ; Es s o u u e t s a ch e t
p o w d er ; N e w
-
b q
m o w n h a y s a ch e t p o w d e r ; O r a nge s a c h e t p o w d e r ; S o l id
.

e r fu m es w i t h p a r a ffi nc ; W hi t e r o s e
p
Es s - b o uq u e t ; Ea u d e C o l og ne ; S me lling
La v e nd e r od or ;
s a l t s ; P r e s t o n s a l t a nd
“
m e nt h o l p u nge nt ”
as r e a re d
p p
b y Wil l ia m \V B a r t l e t t ; \ Vhi t c s m e lling s a l t
.

CH AP T E R X .

F UM I G AT I N G ESS E N C ES , PA S T I L L E S , P W D E R S , O ET C .

C o ns t tu t i i on of fu m ig a t i ng a
g e nt s ; Ob j ec t fu m ig a t i ng ;
of

P j
r e ud ce a i g a i ns t fum iga t i ng ; M o d e o f fu m i a t in
g g
A t om i z ers Ob j e ct io ns t o d ry fu m ig a t i n
g a
g e nt s

F u m iga t ing es s e nc e s a nd V in e g a r s ; R o s e- flo w e r fu m iga t ing

e s s e nc e
; F l o w e r fu m i a t i ng e s s nce — h e lio t r o p e
g e

V iol e t- fl o w er fu m iga t ing e s s e nce Or ie nt a l fl o w e r fu m ig a t i ng

e s s e nce ; P ine o d or ( for a to m i ing)z J u nip e r o d or ; fu m i
g at n
g i b al s a m
i i
F u m ga t ng w a t er ; F u m ig a t ing v i ne gar ; F u m iga t ing p o w
d e r s ; Or d ina ry fu m ig a t i ng p o w d e r
R fu m ig at ing p o w d e r ; V io l e t fu m igat i ng p o w d e r ; Or ang e
o se

fu miga t ing p o w d er ; N e w - m o w n h a y fu mig at i ng p o w d er

F u m iga t ing p a p er ; F um iga t i ng p a s t il le s
x vi C ON T EN T S .

PAG E

Or d i nar y r e d fu mi g a t ing p as t ill es Or d inar y b l a c fu m iga t ing k

p as t ill e s M us f u m i a t in
g k
g p a s t il l es

R os e fumiga t i ng p a s t il l e s ; V i ol e t fum ig a t i ng p a s t ill e s ; ill e M

fl eu i s fu m ig a t ing p as t il l e s F um i ga t i ng l a c q u er

CH AP T E R X I .

D EN T I F R I C E S M O U TH WAT
,
- E RS ,
ET C .

S el ect io n of m a t er ial s fo r a nd c o mp o u nding of d e nt ifr ic e s

S oa p a s a c o ns t it u e nt of d e nt ifr ic e s V al u e o f t hymol for d e n
t ifr i ce s ; Ob j ect of l
g yc e r i n i n d e n t ifr ic e s

T o ot h an d mou th w a t er s ; T hym ol t o o th- w a t e r ; Ea u d e nt i

frice B o t ot ; Ea u d e nt ifr ice Or ie nt a l e
Viol et m ou th- w a t er ; A nt is e p t c g a rgl e ; O d ont in e ; i So z o

d o nt ; Ea u d e B ot o t ( i m p r o v e d )
Q uinine t o oth w -
a t er ; D r S t a hl s t o o t h t i nct ur e ; Es p r i t d e
.
’
-

m e nt h e ; A r n ca i t o ot h t inc t ur e ; M yrr h t o o t h t i nct ur e

- -

T o o th p a s t es a nd t o o th- p ow d er s ; t o ot h p a s te
- -
o r o d o nt i ne

T hym ol t o o t h- p a s t e ; C he rr y t o oth- p a s t e ; N o n- fe r m e nt ing

ch e rr y t o o t h- p a s t e ; Od o nt ine p a s t e
T hy mol t o o th p o w d e r ; -
P ou d r e d e nt ifr ice ; Vio l e t t o ot h

ow d e
p
D r Hufe l a nd
.
’
s t oo t h- p o w d er ; Wh i t e t oo t h- p o w d e r ; B l a c k
t o ot h- p o w d e r ; P o ud r e de co r a il C a m ph or t oo t h p o w d e r ;
Op i at l i q u id e
p ou r l e s d e nt s
P o ud r e d A l g é r in e
’

Dr Hu fel a nd t o ot h- s o a p
'

. s

T o o th -
s oa
p S a p o na c eo u s t oot h w ash -

C H A PT E R XI I .

HAI R P O MA D ES , HA R O L I I S, A N DH A I R T O N I C S ; HA I R
DY ES A N D D E P I L AT O R I E S .

F at s u s ed for t h e p r e p ara t io n of
p m
o a d e s ; R e u t at io n
p of

s om e fa t s a s h a ir p om a d e s
P o m a d e s a nd t he ir p r e p ara t io n P ur i fi c a t io n o f t h e fa t
S ub st a nces u s ed for c ol or i ng p o m a d es F i ne F r e nch p o ma d e s

( fl ow er- o ma d e s)
p M i
ac e r a t o n or e x t r act io n o f t h e fl o w ers 28 6
x v fii CO N T EN TS
PA G E

P re
p ar at o n o f i i
hu l es a nt i q ues Huil e a nt i q ue a la r os e

Hui l e a nt i q ue au j mi
as n ; A l p i ne h er b o il ; F l o w e r h a ir

Oil ; P e r uv ia n b ar khi a r oil

P er u ha ; Biu rroc r ooil

o t h a ir o l s ; Md k
a c a ss a r h a ir o l s ; i i
i
N e r ol i h a ir o il M gn onet t e h a ir Oil s ; F ine h a ir o il
C h e a p h air oil (r e d or ye ll o w ) P or tug a l h a ir oi l ; J a s mi ne
h a ir o il V a se l ine h a ir o il s V a nill a h a i r o il Y l ang

y l an
g h a ir Oil ; P hil oc ome h a r o il i
S ul t a na h a ir o il ; R o s e h a r o il ; T o n i k a h ai r o il ; Vi ol e t h a i r

o il ; Vic t or ia h a ir o il ; C h e ap h a i r Oil s ; B a nd ol i nes a nd

t he ir p p ar a ti on
re

R os e b and ol ine ; A l m o nd b and ol ine ; Br i l lia nt ine

F l o w er b rill i anti ne N o . 1 B r illia nt ine N o . 2
i
B r llia nt ine N o . 3 ; Va r i ou s fo r mu l a s for b ri ll ia nt i ne
Ha ir t o nics ; Eau A t henie nne ; F l or id a w a t er
Ea u d e C ol og ne h a ir t o nic ; Eau d e u inine q
E au d e q ui ni ne
( i mi t a t i o n) ; Ho ne y w a t er ; Gl y cer in ha i r

t on ic ; Ea u l u s t r a l ( h a ir r e s t ora t v e i ); T e a h air t o nic

L oc ock
’
s l ot i on for t h e h a ir ; S ha mp oo l ot i on ; S h amp o o
li q uid

D a nd r uff cur es ; D a n d ru ff l ot i o n ; B a
y ru m
D i r ect i ons for r e ar i n
p p g b a
y ru m

Hai r d yes R e qiu r e m e nt s of g a ood ha i r d ye ; Gr a d ual

d ar k e ni ng o f t h e ha i r
; U se of d il ut e a c id s for ma i ng th e k
ha i light er
r

U se of l e a d s al t s , nit r a t e o f s ilve r , a nd c o
pp e r sa l t s for d ye
i ng t h e h a ir
Iron for d ying th e ha ir ; R as t ik op et r a , a T ur ish h a r
s a l ts k i
d ye ; U s e of p o ta ss i um p e r m a nga na t e a nd p yr ogal lic a cid
fo r d ye ng th e h a ir i
K oh o l , Egyp t ian h a ir d ye ; T he u s e of he nna a s a h a r
an i
d ye ; P roce ss of col or i ng h a ir , d ye d r e d w th h e nna , b l ac i k
j
U s e of th e u ice of gr e e n w al nu t s h ell s for c ol or ng t h e ha ir ; i
i i i
B l e ach ng t he h a r w t h p er o id e o f hyd r oge n ; F or mul ae x
for h a ir d ye s
S i ngl e ha ir d y es T e i ntur e Ori e nt al e ( K ar s i) T e int ur e
C hinoi s e ( K oh ol )
 CON T EN T S . xi x
PA G E
P o t ass iu m p er ma ngana t e ha ir d ye ; B is mut h hai r d y e ; Wal
nu t ha ir d ye ; P yr ogal l ic h a ir s t a in
D ou b l e h a ir d ye s ; F o r d ye i ng b r o w n ; F o r d ye ing b l a ck ;
T a nn n h a r d ye i i
M el a n og ene ; Eau d A fr ’
i qu e ; K r in Oh c ro m; C opp er h a ir
d ye ; D e p il a t or ies ; R hu s ma
’ ’
i
B o e ttg er s d e p l at or y ; B ar t h ol o w s d ep il a t ory

CH A PT E R XI I I .

O M T C S E ICS .

S ink cos m e t cs i ; T oile t v i ne

g ar s i
; V naigr e d e B ul ly ; V i n
ai
g re d e t o il e tt e a l a r os e ; V i n a ig r e d e t o il e t t e a l a vio

l e tt e
é
V i na igr e d e t o i l e t t e h l io tr op e ; V i na igr e d e t o i l e tt e g ; or a n e

V i naigr e d e t oil e tt e ; A ro mat ic v i ne ar ; En lis h ar o ma t ic

g g
v ine ar
g
T o l eti v ne
gi ar ; Wa she s ; V i rgina l mi lk ( L i V i gi n
a t r al ) ;
R ose m lk i ( Lai t de r o se )
A l mo nd m l k i ( L a t d i ’
a m a nd e s a m ere s )
L i l y m il k( L a t d e l s ) ; P erfu m e d
y il
g y ce r n w ith r o s e o d or
; i
P erfum ed gl ycer i n w i t h fru i t o d or , P e r fu m e d m e al s a nd

p a s t es
; F a r n d e n o is e t t e
( n u it m e a l )
F ar in d a m a nd e s a m er e s ( a l m ond m e al ) ; P a t e d a m a nd e s
’ ’

a u m i e l ( h o ne a l m o nd as t e ) P ou d r e d e r i z a l a r o se
y p
P ou d r e de r z i hé l i ot ro
p ; P
e ou d re de r iz or a n
g e ; P ou d r e de
r z i m ugu et
P o u d re de r z ixo
; P o u d r e d e r i z b ou u e t ; C o l d cre a m s
i ra q
a nd li s al v es ; C o l d cr ea m ; V a s el ine col d cr e a m
p
i
Gl ycer n cr eam ; C r eme d e c onco mb r e ; Glycer n gel é e ; i
Gl ycer i n j elly
Cr e a m of r ose s ; B or ogl ycer i n cr ea m; R eca mi er cr e a m ;
P p ar at ions for ch a p p e d h a nd s
re

Wa sh for t he h and s ; N a l p ow d er ; L ip- s a ve s i l

P a int s ; P ul ver ul e nt p a nts (p o w d er s ) ; “
B l ane far d ”
i or

B l a ne fr a nca is
 CONT EN TS .

PA G E

x
M i tu r e s for p ow d ers ; C ol or ing s u b s t a nces for p o w d e r s ;
i
P o w d e r for c ol or ng i nt ens el y r ed ; S ol id p a int s ; Or di
nar
y r ed
p a nt ( i
g )
r ou e

F i ne red p a i nt ( r ou
g e ) Whi t e p i
a nt ; P pre i
ar a t o n o f
p ai nt s

R e d s t ic k p i t ( ti k
- a n s c r ou
g e
) M ou l d i ng t h e r o uge i nt o s t ic k s

W h it e s ti k p i t ; R
c - a n oug e e n fe uil l e s ; L i q id p
u ai nt s ; Li q u id

r ou e
g
\ Vhit e l i qui d p i nta ; F at
p a int s

Cr é me d e L ys C r é me d e r os e

I N D EX
 A P R A CTICA L TR EA TIS E

ON TH E

M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

C HA P TER I .

H I S T OR I CA L NO T I CE OF P ERFUMERY .

N A T URE has i mplanted i n m an t he i nsti nct of fi nd ing

t he odor acco m panyi ng d ecay a nd p u tr efa cti o n i nsu ffer
abl e of fl eel ng fro m it a nd of goi ng in q uest of fragra nt
, ,

odors Hence i n a nci ent ti mes p erfu me s u bstances

.
, ,

w er e h ighly esteemed a nd an o ffe ring of th em w as

,

co nsid e red a S ig n of t he most pro fo und r e v erence a nd

ho mage The early natio ns of t he Ori ent esp eci ally
.

u sed p erfume s ubsta nc es in s u ch profu sio n t hat t he co n

s u mptio n of th em by the fi nest lady of to day m u st be -

call ed a co mp arati v ely m od erate one This may h ow .

,

e v er,
be r eadily explai ned for on t he one h a nd t he
, , ,

maj ority of p l ants wh ich prod u ce t he m ost agr eeabl e

p erfu mes i n larger q ua ntity are indigeno u s to t he
O ri ent ; a nd o n t he oth e r t he e xcessiv e exh a l atio n s
, ,

fro m the h u ma n body ca used by t he hot cli m ate forced

, ,

t he p eopl e to s earch for m ea ns to r em ov e or at l east to ,

cov er t he disagreeabl e odor arisi ng th er efro m

, .

S i nce fragra nt odors w er e agr eeabl e to h uma n b e i ngs ,

2
18 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

it was b eli ev ed that th ey mu st be w elco m e also to the

gods and to ho nor th em p erfume s ubstances w ere b urned
, , ,

u po n t he altars B esid es as an offeri ng to the go d s p er

.
, ,

fume s ubsta nces w e re ext ens ivel y u sed by m any natio ns ,

esp ecially by t he Egyptia ns for em bal m i ng t he d ead t he

, ,

process employe d by t he latter havi ng b een tra ns mitted

to u s by t he anci ent a uthors Herodot us and D iod or us .

F u rth er m ore a d es ire for or na menta tio n and to gi v e

,

to t he fac e and body as pl easi ng an a pp ea ra nce as pos

si bl e is co mm o n to al l m a nki nd To be s u re t he id ea s
,
.
,

of what co nstit utes b eau ty in this r esp ect hav e vari ed

at di fferent ti mes and a mo ng the var io us natio ns B ut .
,

i nd ep end ent of t he sav a ge rac es who co nsid e r pai nti ng ,

a nd t attooi ng t he body a nd face an em belli sh ment ,

a nd tak i ng i nto co n sid eratio n o nly t he earl iest civiliz ed

n ati o ns
,
i t is asto nish i ng h ow many arts of the toil et
hav e b een preserv ed fro m t he m ost a nci ent historical
“
ti m es up to t he present I n the m ost a nci ent b istori
.

cal ti mes p eopl e p erfumed and pai nted frizzed c url ed

, , , ,

a nd dy ed t he hair as at pre s ent a nd i n fa ct t he sa me , , ,

cosmetics o nly slightly a ug m ented wh ich w er e in use

, ,

h undreds nay tho u sa nds of y ears ago are still em ploy ed

, , ,

to It is especially w o man who ev erywh e re exer ,

cis es t he arts of t he toil et wh il e w ith t he exceptio n of

, ,

p erfumes and agents for the hair man is b ut s eldo m ,

r eferred to as maki ng u se Of cos metics The yo ung .

girls of anci e nt Egypt u sed red a nd wh ite pai nts colored ,

th e i r pal e lips and anoi nt ed th eir h a ir w ith sw eet

,

scented oils th ey dy ed th ei r ey elash es and ey elids black

to i mpart a br ighter l ustre to t he glanc e of the eye and ,

P a s chk i s , Kos met i kf ur A e r zt e . Wi en ,

1 89 0 .
 H I S T OR I CA L NOT I CE OF PERFUMERY . 19

the m oth er of the wi fe of t he first king of Egypt is sai d

to hav e alr eady com posed a receipt for a hair d ye -
.

F ro m t he Egyptia ns t h e practices of t he toil et li k e

, ,

m a ny oth er thi ngs w ere tra ns m itt ed to t he Je ws

,
In .

Egyp t the He br e w wo ma n ha d k n ow n t he sw eet sc ented

,
-

flow er of the h enna b ush and fi ndi ng it also i n Jud ea it , , ,

s erv ed her as a p erfu me I n t he B i bl e t he h enna flow e r

.

is ca l led kop her i n G ree k lag

, /p r os a nd t he Cypr i a n s a lv e
, ,

menti o ned by P li ny was pr epar ed by boili ng h enna

,

flo wers in Oil and th en expressi ng th e m .

P ai nti ng t he fac e w a s a lso pract is ed by t he He brew

wo men referenc e be i ng mad e to it i n II K i ngs i x 30
,
. .
,

a nd Je r em iah v 30 whil e pai nti ng of t he ey e s i s m en

.
,

t ioned in Ez e ki e l xxii i 4 0 . .

The n u m b e r of p erfu me s u bstanc es k now n to t he

a nci ent Hebrew s was but a li m ited one th ey co nsisti ng , ,

b esid es t he abov e m entio ned h enna flow er ch i efly of a

-
,

fe w g um r esi ns -
esp ec ially bd elli u m
,
Oli ba nu m a nd ,

myrrh .

I n a nci ent ti mes Ol ibanum was wi t ho ut do u bt t he ,

m ost i m porta nt p erfum e s ubsta nce It was i ntrod uc ed

-
.

i nto co mmerce by the P h enicians a nd lik e ma ny oth e r , ,

s ubstances it rece i v ed fro m th em its na me which was

, ,

adopted by oth er natio ns Th us t he Hebrews call ed .

,

t he tree lebona h t he A rabs lu ba h wh il e t he G ree ks

, , ,

na med it M B Og a nd t he r e si n d eri v ed fro m i t t he c el e

“

av , ,
,

b rat ed fra n ki nc ens e of t he ancient s M fi w r dg L ati n oli

‘

av
, , ,

ba n um . R egardi ng t he m od e of gai ni ng t he Ol iban u m ,

so me c urio us id eas prev a il ed i n anci ent ti mes Th u s .

,

Herodot us writes “
A ra bi a is the o nly co untry in wh ich
o l iba nu m r ow s as w ell as m yrrh cassi a ci nna m o n a nd
g , , ,

l eder um Wi th the ex ception of myrrh t he A rabs

.
,
.
 O MANUFACT URE OF PERFUME R Y .

en cou nt er many di ffi c ulti es i n proc uri ng th es e prod u cts .

Oli ba n um th ey obta i n b y b u r ni ng styra x for e ve ry oli ,

b an um tree i s g ua rd ed by a nu mber of s mall sized

.
-

w i nged s erp ents of a v a ri eg a ted a pp ea r an ce wh ich ca n ,

”
b e driv en aw ay by noth i ng b ut styra x vapors A ccord .

i ng to P li ny wh o gi v es a v e ry full acco u nt of Oli ba num

, ,

A r a bi a felia: r ece i v ed its by na m e fro m the a b u nd anc e of

-

Oli b a n u m a nd myrrh fo und th e re He stat es t h a t oli

.

ba nu m g rows i n no oth e r co untry besid es A rabi a b ut i t ,

is not fo u nd in e v ery par t Of it A bo ut i n t he ce ntre

. .
,

u po n a h ig h m o u n tai n he co nti nu es i s t he co un try of

, ,

t he A t r a m it es a pro v i nc e Of t h e S a b ea ns fro m wh ich t he

, ,

Ol i ba nu m r egio n i s dista n t a bo u t e igh t d a ys j o u rney

’
.

It is ca ll ed S aba and is e v erywh ere r end er ed i naccessibl e

by m o u nt a i ns a na rrow d efil e th ro ugh wh ich t he e xport
, ,

is ca rri ed o n l ea di ng i nto a n adj oi ni ng provi nce i nhabited

,

by t he M ineans I n S aba itsel f w ere not more tha n

.

3 00 fa m ili es ca ll ed t he s a ints w ho clai med t he c ultiv a

, ,

tio n of Ol ib a nu m as a right of h eritag e Wh en m aki ng .

t he i ncis io ns i n t he tr ees a nd w h il e g ath e ri ng t he Oli b a

,

n um t he m en w ere proh ibit ed fro m hav i ng i nt erco u rs e

,

with w o m en a nd fro m a ttendi ng funerals N ot w it hsta nd .

i ng the fa ct th a t t he R o ma ns carri ed on war in A r a bi a ,

n o ne of th e m h ad e v er s ee n a n Ol ib a num tr ee Wh en .

th ere w a s l ess cha nce of selli ng t he Oliba nu m it was

"

gath ered but o nce in the y ear but si nc e t he i ncrea s e i n

,

t he d ema nd i t was ga th er ed twic e first in t he fa ll a nd

, ,

aga i n i n the S pri ng the i ncisio ns in the trees h a vi ng b een

,

mad e d u ri ng t he wi nter The coll ected Olib a nu m w a s

.

bro ught u pon ca mels to S abota wh ere one gate was op en

,

for i ts receptio n ; to tu r n fro m t he road w a s prohibited

u nd e r p enalty of d eath The pri ests took o ne t enth by
.
-
22 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

a hygi enic meas u r e a fter t he

b at h a nd esp eci a ll y for ,

m en i n the gy m na si u m a nd b e for e a co m b a t wi th t he
, ,

G r ee ks oi nt m e nts w er e a n a rticl e of l ux u r v
,
In .

S ocra t es ti m e t he us e of sw eet sc ent e d oi nt m ents ha d

’
-

r each ed s uch a n extent that X enopho n cau s ed hi m to

,

sp eak ag a i nst it b ut as is t he cas e with all s uc h l ect ures

, ,

ag a i ns t fashi o n witho u t t he sl ightest s uccess

,
In .

A t h ens t he l u x u ry was ca rri ed so fa r that t he ba ccha na

lia ns anoi nted ea ch part of th ei r body with a sp eci a l
o int ment T he O il e xtra ct ed fro m t he pal m was
.

tho ugh t b est a d a pted to t he ch ee ks a nd t he breasts t he

arm s w ere re fresh ed wi t h b alsa m m i nt ; s w eet m arj ora m -

s uppli ed a n oil for t he hair a nd ey ebrows ; and wild

thy me for t he k nee a nd neck A ltho ugh to us i t wou ld .

be r ep ug na nt to h a v e t he entir e body a noi nt ed in ,

A th e ns it was co nsid e red b ea u ti fu l to be gl ossy w ith

oi nt m ents It is sa id of D em et ri us P hal ere us th a t in
.
,

ord er to app ea r m ore ca pti v ati ng he dy ed h is hair ,

y ellow and a noi nt ed t he fa ce a nd t he rest of h is body

,
.

F ro m t he A siatics a nd G reeks t he R o m a ns also

l ear ned the u se of oi nt ments P li ny ca nnot say a t .

w h a t ti m e th ey w ere i ntrod uc ed i n R o m e bu t s t at es ,

th a t after t he co nq ue st of A s I a and t he d efeat of t he

K i ng A ntioch u s i n t h e y ear 5 6 5 a fte r t he b u ildi ng of
, , ,

R o me the c ensors iss ued a n edict proh ibiti ng t he sal e of

,

for eig n oi nt ments Howe v er th is edict was of no us e

.
, ,

a nd t he practic e spr ead m ore a nd m or e P li ny sp eaki ng ,

v ery bitterly abo u t it R egardi ng th is extravaga nce in

.

oi nt ments P l u ta rch says :

,
F ra nki ncens e ci nna m o n , ,

spi k ena rd and A rabia n cala m us are mi x ed togeth er

,

with t he m ost care fu l art a nd sold for larg e s u m s It .

i s a n effem i nate pl eas u re and has spoil ed not o nly the

 H I S T OR I CA L NO T I CE OF PERFUMERY .
1
23

Wo men b u t also t he m en, who will l p ev en w ith n o t S ee

th eir ow n wi v es if th ey do not s mell of oi nt ments and

powd ers ”
.P l u ta rch furth e r m enti o ns a n incid ent wh ich
mu st hav e cr eated a s ens a tio n e v en i n l u x u rio u s R o m e ,

as oth erwis e it wo uld scarcely hav e been ch ro nicl ed for

t he b enefit of post erity N e ro o ne day a noi nt ed h im
.

s elf w ith costly oi nt ments a nd scattered so m e of th em

ov er Otho The next d ay Otho gav e N ero a ba nq uet
.
,

a nd l a id i n all dir ectio n s gold a nd silv er t ub es whi ch ,

po ur ed fort h exp ensiv e oi ntments l ik e water thoro u ghly ,

satura ti ng t he g uests .

D ir ecti o ns for prepari ng oi nt m ents a re co nt a i ned in

“ ”
T he Op hrast us s work
’
On P erfu mes i n D io sco rid es s
’
,

M edica mat eria

”
a nd P l i ny s
,
“
Histori a nat u ra lis ’ ”
.

D ios cor id es s r ec eipts a re t he full est A ccordi ng to P li ny

’
.
,

a a l s t inct ion w as mad e b et w een t he j u ice and t he bod v

t he latt e r co nsisti ng of t he fat o ils a nd t he for m er of t he
s weet scented s ubstances I n prepari ng t he oi ntments
-
.
,

the oil tog eth e r with t he p e rfu m i ng s ubst a nc es w e r e

h ea ted i n t he wat e r b ath -
F o r i nsta nce ros e oi nt ment
.
,

was accordi ng to D iosco rid es prepared by m i xi ng

, ,

5 % lbs of br u is ed A nd r op og on S choena nthus with a l ittl e

.

water th en addi ng 2 0 % lbs of oil a nd h ea ti ng A fter

,
. .

h eati ng the oil was filtered ofi, a nd t he p etals of o ne

‘

tho usa nd ros es w ere thrown i nto t he oil t he ha nds with ,

wh ich t he ros e l ea v es w ere press ed i nto t he oil b e i ng

pre vi o usl y coated wi th ho nev Wh en t he w hol e had .
-

stood for o ne night t he oi l was strai ned off and wh en

,

all i mp u riti es had s ettl ed it was bro ught i nto a noth er

,

v essel and fr esh rose l ea v es i ntrod uc ed t he op erati o n ,

b ei ng se v eral ti mes rep eated H ow e v er accordi ng to

.
,

t he op inio n of t he a nci ent oi nt ment m ak ers no m ore ,

24 MANUFAC T URE OF P ERFUMERY .

odor was absorb ed by t he oil afte r the s ev enth introd uc

ti on of rose l ea v es To fix t he odor resi ns or g ums
.
,

w ere add ed to t he oi ntments .

A process of distilli ng v ol a til e oils was a lso k now n ,

t he odor ifero u s matt e r b e i ng c a ught by spr eadi ng wool

ov er the h ea ted p erfume s u bstances -
T he wool was .

a ft erwards s ubj ected to press ure This process of .

,

co urs e i nvol v ed gr ea t loss a nd was a vail a bl e o nly for

, ,

s ubsta nces co ntai ni ng m u ch v olatil e oi l .

D ioscorid es also gi v es d irectio ns for mak ing a ni mal fats

s u itabl e for t he r ec eptio n of p erfu mes Bee f tallow d eer .
-
,

fa t or t h e ma rrow of a n i m als was freed fro m all mem

,

bra nes m elte d togeth er w ith a li ttl e salt i n a n enti rely

,

n ew v ess el a nd th en po u re d i n to cl ea n wate r wh er e it
, ,

was wash ed by r ubbi ng with t he ha nd s t he water b e i ng ,

freq uently r enewed Th en it was boil ed with eq ual

.

p a rts of sweet scen ted wi ne and afte r taki ng it fro m

-
,

t he fi re it was a llo w ed to sta nd ov er n ight Th e next .

day t he cold fa t was agai n boil ed i n a new v ess el with ,

s w eet scented wi ne th is Op erati o n b e i ng r ep eated u ntil

-
,

t h e fat had lost e v e ry trac e of disagr eeabl e odor wh en ,

i t was bro ught in co ntact wi th t he p erfum es .

The co ns um ptio n of p erfum e s u bstan c es by t he a n -

ci ent R o ma ns m u st h av e b een enor m ou s The trad e of .

t he oi nt m ent m ak ers (ung enta r i i ) w a s so e xt ensiv e that

t he larg e str eet S ep la s i a i n old C a p u a was entir ely
.

t ak en up by i t and the b u si ness mu st hav e paid w ell

'

si nc e t he prices r eal i z ed w ere v ery h igh H ow ev e r i n .

,

a nci ent ti mes the b u si ness ca nnot hav e been v ery agr ee
abl e a t l east not i n Gr eece as sh ow n by a pass age in
, ,

P l utarch s L ife of P ericl es :

’ “
We tak e pl eas ur e in
 H I ST OR I CA L NO T I C E OF PERFUMERY . 25

oi nt ments a nd p urpl e bu t co nsid er t he dy ers a nd oi nt

,

ment mak ers bo nds men a nd mecha n ics .

R ed a nd wh it e pai nts i n the for m of powd e r as w ell

,

as of past e w er e ext ensiv ely u s ed by t he R o ma n ladi es

,
.

C hal k a nd whit e l ead s erv e d f or wh ite p a i nt a nd ,

m i ni u m a nd car m i ne for r ed L o v ers pre fe rr ed wh it e .

pai nts a pal e color b ei ng m or e b ecom i ng to th em

,

P al l e a t o mn i s a m ans h ic es t

col o r a p t us a m a n t i
”
.

F or black pai nts for the ey ebrows roasted a nt eggs

or soot w ere used .

The R o ma n ladi es p a id as m uch att entio n to th e ir

nat u ral a nd also fals e hai r as t he fa i r o nes of to day
, ,
-
.

Th ey c url ed th eir hai r with h eated iro n i nstr ument s ,

a nd p e rfum ed th em with fragra nt oil If fro m ag e .

,

sorrow or oth er rea so ns t he hai r was no lo ng er black

, , ,

it was dy ed a nd it seems that a co nsid erabl e n um b er of

,

hai r dy es w ere k now n i n R om e a mo ngst th em so me

-
,

which a re still employ ed to —day su ch as gr een nut ,

sh ells a nd acetate of l ead .

A ft e r t he R o m a ns had s een t he blo nd e Germ a n

maid ens blo nd e a nd r ed h a ir b eca me t he fash io n
,
To .

d ye t he h a ir blo nd e sh arp alkal i ne so a ps w e re ch i efly

u s ed . H ow e v er thi s or so me oth er hair d ye seem s to
,
-

hav e b een v ery i nj u rio us a s i t ca u s ed t he h a ir to co me

,

o ut. The satirists ridic ul ed th is as w ell as t h e w igs ,

wh ich w ere worn by men and wo men to h id e b a ld ness ,

or o n acco u nt of the color wh ich co uld not be atta i ned

by dy es .

D epilatori es w er e also k now n to the R o m a ns t he ,

agents employed b e i ng ca ll ed ps i lothr um a nd d r op a x .

26 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

Th ey w e re of v eg et a bl e origi n but it i s not e xactly ,

k n ow n fro m wh i ch pla nts th ey w ere d eriv ed .

F o r cl ea n i ng t he t eeth th e R o m a n ladi es u s ed a d en
t ifr ice wh ich do es not s eem v ery i n viti ng to u s It con .

sisted of a u ri ne i mported fro m S pai n (d ens hi berna

d efr i ca tu s m i nd ) To p erfum e t he br eath or to hid e its
.

bad odor m o uth wash es p erfum ed with sa ffro n ros es

,
-
, , ,

et c . w ere u sed or m yrrh m astic fro m C hios or p er

, , ,

fum ed pasti ll es w ere ch ew ed .

We k now b ut littl e r ega rdi ng the us e of p erfumeri es

a nd cos m etics i n t he M iddl e A g es I n th e w a rs d uri ng .

t he m igratio n s of t he n atio ns b ut littl e tho ught was ,

v e ry l ik ely gi v en to th em but a s soo n as the natio ns ,

b eca me agai n s ettl ed a nd m ad e s uffi ci ent progress i n

c ult ure t he taste for p e rfu mes a nd oth er pl easu res of
,

life no do ubt r et urn ed Our k nowl edg e i n th is resp ect

.

i s li mited to wh at is co nta ined in t he works of physi

e ia u s of the first c ent u ri e s L a t e r o n w e find r eceipts
for cos metics i n the w r1 t1 ngs of A rabia n physici a ns ,

s u ch as R h a zes (end of the 9 th to t he co mmencem ent of

t he l 0 t h c ent u ry ) A vice nna (e nd of t he l 0 th to t he
,

co mmencement of t he 1 1 th c ent ury ) a nd M es ne (1 1 th ,

c ent ury ) To t he 1 1 t h c ent ury also b elo ng the works

‘

”
of the c el ebrated Tr o t ul a D e mu li er um p ass i onibus
, ,

P r a cti ce. Tr otu la e mu lier is S a ler ni ta na e d c cur i s ma li c

”
ru m, ”
and Tr otu la i n u ti li ta tem mu li er um,
of which al l

contai n r ece ipts for cosm etics I n t he 14 th cent ury the .

m ost c el ebra ted su rg eo n of t he M iddl e A g es G uy d e ,

Chanl ios d id not co n sid er it b e neath h is dig n ity to d e

,
”
vote a s ectio n of his G ra nd e C h ir urg ie to cos mes t ics .

How ev er it was o nly i n t he l 6 t h cent ury that p erfu mes

,

and cos metics ca me agai n i nto pro mi nent n otic e in Italy ,

 HI S T OR I CA L NO T I CE OF PERFUMERY . 27

which at th at ti me was the co u ntry of l ux ury and art .

G iova nni M a ri nel l o fi a physicia n i n 1 5 6 2 wrote a

e
,

“ ”
work 0 11 C os m etics for L adi es wh ich he d edicat ed ,

to t he ladi es Victori a a nd Isab ella P a lavici n i I n t he .

preface t he a uthor express es t he Opi nio n that i t is o nly

right a nd pl ea si ng to G od to place t he gi fts bestow ed by
hi m i n a prop e r light a nd to h e ighten th em H e th en .

proceed s to gi v e p erfum es for vario us p u rpos es aro m ati c ,

bath s to k eep t he ski n yo ung and fresh mean s for i n ,

cr ea si ng the sto u tness of t he enti r e body a nd of s eparat e

li m bs a nd o t h ers for r ed uci ng th em He fu rth er recom
,
.

mends c erta i n r e med i es for maki ng larg e ey es s m all ,

a nd s m all o nes larg e T he chapt e r on t he hair i s v e ry

.

fully treated To prev ent t he h a ir fro m co m i ng o ut

.
,

r ubbi ng w ith oi l a nd t h en wash i ng wi th sorrel a nd

,

m yrobal a n i s r eco mmend ed F o r pro m oti ng the growth .

of t he hair the use of dri ed frogs lizards etc r u bb ed

, , ,
.
,

to a powd er is prescri bed M ea ns for m aki ng the hai r

,
.

lo ng a nd soft a nd c u rly are also gi v en a nd oth e rs ,

reco m m end ed for ey ebrows a nd ey elash es A s d epila .

tori es l i me a nd orpi ment are pr escrib ed P ai nts are also .

cl ass ed a m o ng g eneral cos meti cs Th eir use b eca me a t .

th is ti me m ore a nd m or e fa shio na bl e and not o nly t he ,

face but a lso t he brea st a nd neck w er e p a i nt ed

,
.
.

Ca th eri ne of M e dici a nd M a rg a r et of Valois intro

d uced th es e arts of the toil et into F ra nc e That co u n .

try soon b eca me the l ea d er in th is r esp ect a nd for ma ny ,

ears t he gr eat est l u x u ry i n p erfu mes a nd cos m tics

y e

preva i l ed th ere The gold en age for th es e articl es lasted

.

Gl i orn a m e n t i d e l l e d onn e , t r a t t i d al l e s e r i t u r e d ’
una R e i na

g r eca
, p ar M . Gi o v a nni M ar i n e l l o i n Ve n e t i a .
28 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

fro m the co m m encement of t he s e v entee nth to the m id

d l e of t h e e ighteenth c ent u ry d uri ng wh ich ti m e t he ,

mou che or b ea uty p a tch also flo u rish ed Th er e w e re at .

that ti me h undreds of pastes ess ences cos metics a white , , ,

balsa m a w ater to m ak e t he face red a noth er to mak e a

, ,

co arse co m pl exio n d elicate one to pres erv e t he fine com ,

pl exi o n of l ea n p e rso ns a nd ag a i n one to m ak e the fa ce

lik e that of a t w enty y ea r Old girl a n Ea u p our a ourir
-
,

la ver les teints cor r od es a nd Ea u d e cha i r mir a ble

'

et ad

p ou r teiri ts
j a u nes ciTh e n th e r e w e r
bili eux ,e M ou etc .

cho ir s d e Venu s fu rth e r ba nds i m pr eg na ted with wax

,

to cl ea nse a nd s m ooth t he fore h ead gold l ea f was ev e n

h eated i n a l em on o v er a fire in ord er to obtai n a mea ns
wh ich sho uld i m part to t he fa ce a s up er na t ural bright
ness F o r t he h a ir t eeth a nd na i ls th ere w e re i nnu
.
,

merabl e r ecei pts oi nt ments et c ,

H o w ev er of S p ecial ,
.
,

i m porta nce w ere t he pai nts ch em ica l white bl ue for the , ,

v e i ns b ut chi e f of al l the r ed or ro ug e m i neral v ege

, , , , ,

ta bl e or coch i n eal
,
The applicatio n of ro ug e Was at
.

th at t im e no s mall affa ir i t was not o nly to be ro uged , ,

b ut t he ro u g e had al so to e xpr ess so meth i ng— L e g r a nd

oi nt es t chos e The
’
p d a c oi r un r ou e
g g ui dis e q u elq ue .

ro uge had t o cha ract er l ze its w earer a l ady of r a n k did

no t w ear t he ro ug e lik e a lady of t he co u rt a nd t he ro u g e ,

of t he wi fe of t he bo urgeoi s was not li k e e ith er of th em

nor lik e that of t h e co u rt esa n A t co u rt a m ore i nt ens e .

ro uge w a s wor n the i ntensi t y of wh ich w as sti l l in

,

creas ed ou the day of presentatio n it b eing th en R oug e ,

d Esp a g ne a nd R oug e d e P or tug a l en ta ss e

’
It may .

seem i ncredibl e b ut for eight d ays a v iol et pai n t w as

,
.

u s ed a nd th en for a cha ng e R o ug e d e S er ieis L adi es .

,

wh en retiri ng for t he n ight appl i ed a light ro uge (u n

30 M ANUFA C TURE OF PERFUMERY

m i llio n s of fra ncs worth of p erfumery are a nnu ally sold

’

th ere T he p a rfumeurs g a u ti ers had t he pri vil ege of

.
-

s elli ng glov es of all possibl e ki nds of material as w ell ,

as t he l eath er req u ir ed for th em ; th ey had the fu rth er

privi l eg e of p e rfu mi ng glov es a nd s elli ng all k i nds of
p erfumes P e rfu med l eath er for glov es p urses etc
.
, , .
,

w a s at that ti m e i m port ed fro m S pa in Th is l eath er .

w a s v e ry exp en si v e a nd fa sh io nabl e b ut o n acco un t ,

of its p e netra t i ng odor its u s e for glov es w a s fi nally

aba ndo ned .

I n Engl a nd p erfum es w ere not in g eneral u se b e fore

t he r eig n of Q ueen Elizab eth wh en th ey soo n b eca me ,

fa sh io na bl e Eliz a b eth had an esp ecially fi nely d e v el

.

Op ed s en s e of s m el l a nd n oth i ng w a s m or e r ep ug na nt to

her th an a di s agreeabl e odor S he had a cloak of per .

fu med S pa nish l eath er a nd ev en her sho es w er e p er

,

fumed P erfumed gloves w ere also fa shio na bl e The

. .

city soo n i mitated t he practic es of t he co u rt and that an ,

e xtravagant u s e was m ad e of p erfu me ri e s a nd cos m etics i s

plai nly s een fro m t he works of t he a uthors of th a t t i me ,

as w ell as fro m an act of P arli ament passed in 1 7 7 0 .

By t he l a tter it i s ordai ned t hat a ny wo man no ma tt e r ,

of what age or r a nk be s he ma id or widow who d e

, ,

ce iv es a m a n a nd i n v e igl e s h im i nto m atri m o ny by t he

u s e of p e rfum eri es false hai r Cr ep ons d Esp ag ne (a :

'
’
, ,

pai nt) cors ets hoop ed p ettico at s sho es wi th high h eels

, , , ,

sh a ll s ufl er the p enalty of the law for

'

a nd fals e hips ,

procuring and t he marriag e shall be null a nd vo id

,
.
 MA T ER I A L S F OR MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY . 31

C HA P TER II .

TH E PERFUME M A T ER I A L S F OR T H E MAN U FAC T URE

-

OF PERFUM ERY .

M OS T of p erf t he um e- m
aterials em pl oy ed by the p er
fumer are d eri v ed fro m t he v eg etabl e ki ngdo m ; a fe w
a re of a ni m al origi n whilst so m e a re artificiall y re
, p
pared .

Of a ni mal s ubsta nc es o nly fo u r a re u s ed na mely ,

mus k ca s ter or ca s tor eum C ivet a nd a mberg r is ; t he

, , ,

s eparatio n of th ei r charact eristi c odorifero us s ubsta nces

has h ow ev e r not yet b een acco m plish ed The odor of
, ,
.

pla nts is g enerally d ue to vol a til e s ubsta nces call ed

vola tile or ess enti a l oi ls Th ei r occ u rrence is not li m it ed
.

to S p ecial parts th ey b e i ng fo u nd i n the flow er s eed

, , ,

wood bast bark l eav es a nd root How e v er i n ev ery

, , , ,
.
,

pl a nt the oil occ urs ch i efly i n c erta i n orga ns a nd i t ,

e v en happ ens that t he oil di f fers with the part of t he

pla nt wh e nc e it i s d er iv ed The odors ex ist already .

for med in the li v i ng pla nt or else are generated a s i n , ,

t he i nsta nc e of bitt er al m o nds by so m e r ea cti o n be ,

t ween t he el em ents wh ich tak es place d uri ng fermenta

tio n or distill a tio n .

F r o m the str ength of t he odor of a pla nt no co ncl u

s io n can be draw n as to t he q uantity of volatil e oil
pres ent If th is w ere t he case the hyaci nth for in
.
, ,

stance would co ntai n more oil than t he co nifera e whilst

, ,
32 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

in fa ct i t co ntai ns so littl e th a t it ca n be sepa rated o nly

wi th the grea t est d iffi c u lty The odor do es not d ep end
.

o n t he q ua n tity b ut o n t he q u ality of the oil

,
a pla nt
may di ffus e b ut littl e odor a nd still co ntai n mu ch vola
til e oil Of t he vario u s fa m ili es of pl a nts t he la bi a ta e
.
, ,

umbellifer a e and conifer a e a re rich est i n volati l e oils

,
.

I n e v e ry cli ma t e pla nts di ffus e odor thos e growi ng i n ,

tropical latit u d es b ei ng m ore proli fic i n th is resp ect tha n

t he pla nt s of cold er r egio ns wh ich how e v e r y ie ld t he
, , ,

m ost d eli cate p erfu me A ltho ugh the East I ndi es

.
,

Cey lo n P er u and M e xi co a fford so m e of t he choic est

, ,

p erfu me s Central Europe i s the actual flow e r gard en

,

of the p erfume r G ra sse C a nnes and N ic e b e i ng t he

, , ,

pri ncip a l pl aces for t he prod u ctio n of p erfume m a teri als -

.

Thanks to t he geogra phical positio n of th ese pl aces t he ,

c ulti vator withi n a co mpara ti v ely narrow S p ace has at

, ,

his disposal v a rio us cl i ma tes s u i tabl e for t he most p erfect

d ev elop ment of th e pla nts The A ca ci a F a r nes i a na .

grows on t he seas hor e w it ho u t havi ng to fear fros t

, ,

wh ich in one night might d estroy the e ntir e crop wh il e ,

at t he foot of t he A lps o n M o unt Est eral the viol et

, ,

di ffuses a m u ch sw eete r odor tha n in t he hott er r egio ns ,

wh e re t he oliv e and t he t ub eros e reach p erfect bloo m .

E ngl and ass erts its s u p eriority in oils of la v end er a nd

p epper mi nt The volatil e oils obtai ned fro m pl ants
.

c u ltivated in M i tcha m a nd H itch i n co m ma nd a con

s id erab l y h igh e r p rl ce tha n thos e fro m oth er localiti es ,

th is pr efe rence b ei ng j ustifi ed o nly by the d el ica cy of

th eir p erfu me C a nnes is best s u ited for ros es aca cias
.
, ,

j a s mi ne and nerol i whil e i n N i mes thy me ros emary

, , , , ,

and lav en d e r a re chi e fly c u lti vated N ic e i s cel ebrated.

 MA T ER I A L S F OR MANUFACT URE OF PERFU M ERY . 33

for its viol ets whil e S icily fur nish es t he l em o n and

,

o ra ng e a nd Italy the i ri s a nd b erg a m otte

,
.

The odors e xh a l ed by o ur o w n do m estic pla nts

hav e b een bu t l ittl e st ud i ed but t he so uth ern as well
,

a s m a ny north er n districts of t he U n it e d S tates a r e

w ell ad apted for t he cu lt ivatio n of q u ite a n um ber of

sp eci es of pl a nt s wh ich m ight be m ad e to yi eld h ighly
v a l uabl e a rticl es of co mm erc e A m o ng t he pla nts whi ch
.

m ight fu r nish oils for t he p erfu mer s us e a r e for i nsta nce

’
, ,

t he w a ll flow e r t he l illy lilac a nd m ig no nette

, ,
.

V O L A T I L E O I L S — The vol a til e oils a r e eith er fl u id

(act ual vol atil e oils

) or solid (vari et i e s of ca m phor
) or
sol u tio ns of sol id co m bi nati o ns in fl uid T he latt er o n .
,

expos u re to l o w t em p e r a t u r es s epara te i nto two portio ns

, ,

o ne solid c all ed s tea r o tene a nd t he oth e r l iq u id c a ll ed

, p , ,

elceo tene T h boili n g poi nt of t h vo l til oils is n

p . e e a e c o

s i d e r a bl h igh r th n th t of w t r b u t wh n h at d
y e a a a e ,
e e e

with water th ey p ass ov e r wi th the vapors U po n .

p ap er fl u id vol a til e oils prod uce gr ea se spots wh ich

, ,

d iffer ho w e ve r fro m those ca u sed by fat oils i n that

, ,

th ey gra d ual ly disa pp ear at an ordi nary t em p erat u r e ,

a nd ra pidly by g e ntl e h eati ng M ost v ol a til e oils a re

.

i nsol u bl e or o nly with di ffic u lty a nd spari ngly sol u bl e

, ,

i n w a te r b u t th ey i m part to t he l a tt er th e ir odor a nd
,

taste Th ey a re r ead il v sol ubl e i n alcoh ol eth er ch lo

.
, ,

r o fo rm bi s ulph id e of carbo n a nd p etrol e um eth e r a nd -

, ,

m iscibl e in e v ery pr e porti o n wi t h fats a nd fat oils By .

th ei r sol ubility in alcoh ol t h ey d i ffer fro m m ost fat oils .

Wh e n fresh l y pr epared ma ny vol a ti l e oils are colorl ess ,

b ut soo n t u r n y ellow ; so m e h ow ev e r S h ow a disti n ct

, ,

color ev en wh en fresh Th ey ig nit e with greate r ea s e

.

than fat oils and b u r n with a fi erce sm oky fl ame d eposit

3
34 MANUFAC T URE OF PERF U ME R Y .

i ng larg e a m o u nt of carbo n Th ey exh i bit a great

a .

t e nd ency to a bsorb oxygen fro m t he a ir a nd to g u m t he ,

i nfl uence of light pro moti ng the process I n S pecific .

gra v ity th ey ra ng e fro m a bo u t to m ost of th em

b e i ng sp ecificall y l ight er th an water M ost bodi es
.
,

u nd e r oth erwis e eq u al co nditio ns S ho w a l w ays ex a ctly

,

t he sa m e sp e ci fic gr a vity t he v a riatio ns b e i ng so sligh t

,

th a t th ey m ay be j ustly a scri b ed to e rrors of obs er vatio n .

H ow e v e r o ne a nd t he sa m e vol a til e oi l fre qu e ntly S hows

,

s uch v a riatio ns in Sp eci fi c gra vit y t hat w e a re forced t o

,

a scri b e t h is ph en o m eno n to a lt e ra tio ns i n t he co nstit u tio n

of th e oil i ts elf F o r t he ex a ct d eter mi natio n of t he

.

eci fic gra v ity of a volatil e oi l it sho u ld th e r e for e b e

p , , ,

u b ect ed to ex a m i natio n i m m ed iat ely afte r its prepara

j
ti o n fro m t he pla nt or v eg etabl e s ubsta nce wh ich sho u ld ,

b e as fresh a s possib l e . The i nfl ue nc e of light u po n

vol atil e oi ls i s bes t show n by t he followi ng i nt eresti ng
e xp e ri m e nt : If ce rta i n vol atil e oils are disti ll ed in a
v ac u u m or ov e r b u r n t l i me i n a c u rr e nt of carbo nic acid ,

i t is no lo nge r possi bl e to disti ng uish for i nsta nce oil of

, ,

l em o n fro m oi l of t u rp en ti ne ; how e v e r by agai n expo ,

si ng t he oils to t he ai r th ey reacq u ir e th ei r chara cteristic

,

odor .

A ccordi ng to th e i r el eme nta ry co mpositio n t he vola

til e oils m ay be d i vid ed i nto three pri ncip al div isio ns
1 Vol a til e oils free fro m oxyge n t e rp ene (ca m ph ene)
.
, ,

or hydrocarbo ns .

2 Oxyge na t ed volati l e oils

. .

3 Volati l e o i ls co nt a i n i ng s ulph u r
. .

On acco u nt of t he facili ty with wh ich m ost of t he

volatil e o ils absorb oxygen oils origi nally free fro m
,

o xygen are freq uently a mixtu re of hydrocarbo ns a nd

 MA T ER I A LS F OR MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY . 35

co mbi nati ons co ntai ni ng o xygen T he volatil e oils .

v a ryi ng so m uch i n th ei r physical as w el l as th ei r

ch em ical prop erti es a s u it a bl e cl a ssificatio n of th em has
,

th us far b een u ns u ccessful .

M ost of t he vola t i l e oils co nt a i n a l iq u id hydro

carbo n terp ene wh ich is charact eriz ed neith er by sp eci a l
, ,

taste nor odor no r is t he p ec uliarity of a vol a t il e oil d e

,

p e nd ent o u i t I n t he d ir ect distillatio n of a vol a til e

.

oil for i nsta nc e l emo n oil thi s hydrocarbo n (citrene)

, , , ,

p a sses first ov e r a nd ca n th er efor e be r eadily s epa rated

, ,

fro m the co nstit uents o n which d ep end the p ec uliarity of

l emo n oil a nd wh ich disti l ov e r a t a h igh e r tem p era
,

t u re The sp eci fic ch aracter of a n oi l is g enerally d u e

.

to t he portio n of t he oi l co nt a i ni ng oxyg en Hence .

,

ma nu fact u rers hav e e nd ea vor ed to free s ev e ra l of t he

volati l e oils u sed for p erfumery a nd t he pre paration of
,

food fro m t he worthl ess t erp ene and at t he s a me ti m e

,

to obtai n th em i n a co nce ntrated for m C a rvol is for .

,

i nstance caraway oil fr eed fro m carv ene (terp ene)

, .

Th es e co ncentrat ed oi ls a re not o nly p u re r a nd more

agreeabl e in odor a nd t ast e a nd m ore readily sol ubl e i n
dil ute alcohol but be i ng m ore co ncentrated a n eq u a l
, , ,

vol ume of th em go es m uch fu rth er tha n ordi na ry vol a

ti l e oil I n t he price lists th ese oils a re d esig nate d as
.

ewtr a s tr ong , a tented , concentr a ted , hig hly concentr a ted

p
oi ls or ess ences .

A l l t he terp enes occu rri ng i n t he vario us oils a re

co mbi natio n s h avi ng the for mul a C ,0H ,6 or poly meric ,

with it ,
et c Th ese terp enes exhibi ti ng
.

cer tai n d ev iatio ns i n regard to th e ir prop erti es o d or , ,

speci fic grav ity a nd boil i ng poi nts nearly as ma ny t er

, ,

p enes as t here are volatil e oils h av e been d isti ng u ish ed .

It is how ev er v ery l ik ely t hat th ese d e viatio ns may be

, ,
36 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

traced back to fort u ito us circ umstances for ex a mpl e to , ,

t he a d m ixt u r e of for e ig n s ubst a nc es occ u rri ng tog eth er

with the t erp enes and that by a m ore acc urate e xa mi na
, ,

tio n t he nu m b e r of terp enes e nt itl ed to be co nsid ered

,

u r e ch em ic a l co m bi natio n s will b e co n sid erably r ed uc ed

p .

B y W all ach s labors t he id entity of s ev eral t erp enes

’
,

for m erly co nsi d er ed d isti nct ha s already b een estab

,

l is hed wh ilst ma ny oth ers hav e b een fo u nd t o possess

,

prop erti es i n co m mo n .

A ccordi ng to t he nat ur e a nd q u antity of t he od ori fer

o u s s u bsta nc es co ntai ned i n t he pla nts vari o u s methods
, ,

na mely ex r es si on
p ,
di s ti lla ti o n
,
extr a cti on,
ma cer a ti on , ,

a nd a bs or ti on a r e e mp l oy ed for t he p urpos e of obtai n

p ,

i ng th em .

Exp e r s s i on — Th is is o nly practicabl e wh en t he s ub

s ta nc es a re esp ecially ri ch in oi l a nd of s uffici e nt soft ness ,

as i n t he cas e with t he p eel of t he ora ng e citro n l em o n , , ,

et c . I n s u ch i n st a nc es t he m a t erial is si mply pl a ce d
i n a li nen cloth a nd s u bj ect ed to a stro ng pr ess u r e u ntil
it c eas es to yi eld oi l The press may be of a ny siz e
.

a ccord ing to t he q ua ntity to b e e xpr e ss ed F o r s m al l.

q u antiti es i t g enera l ly co nsists of a n i ro n v essel havi ng ,

a s mal l op en i ng at t he botto m so that t he oil may flow

o ut .The m at e rial is p l ac ed u po n a p erforat ed botto m
i nsid e of t he v essel a nd cov ered with a w ell fitting iro n -

plate th at can be pressed dow n by means of a scre w

,
.

T hough t he mat eri a l is fairly exhau sted by s uch a pr ess ,

for l a rg e op eratio ns it is advis a bl e to m ak e use of a

hydra ulic press wh ich is co nstr ucted and m a naged in
,

e xactly t he s a m e m a nne r as thos e u s ed for t he e xpr essio n

of fix ed oils .

By expr essio n a t urbid milky fl uid is obtai ned which ,

38 MANUFA CT URE OF PERFUMERY .

d ent that t heapparatu s sh o u ld not be placed i n t he

s un b ut i n a s em i dark cool plac e
,
-
,
.

A filte r of S i mpl e co nstr u cti o n a nd p erfor mi ng excel,

l ent service i s sho w n i n F ig 1 It co nsists of a l arge

,
. .

glass bottl e F h erm etically clos ed by a d o ubly per

, ,
-

fo rated cork The neck of the gl ass funnel T t he

.
,

u pp e r r im of wh ich i s gro u n d s m ooth is placed i n o ne ,

FIG . 1 .

of t hehol es and a glass t ub e r b ent a t a right a ngl e

, , , ,

is fitt ed i nto t he s eco nd hol e A th ick wood en lid wi th

.
,

a r ubb er ri ng on the low er sid e is placed u po n the ,

funnel th us closi ng i t a i r tight I n t he centre of the

,
-
.

l id is fitted a gl a ss t u b e r a lso b ent at a right a ngl e

’
, , ,

whi ch is co nnected with t he t ub e r by a r u bber hos e lo , ,

.

A fter t he fu nnel has b ee n provid ed wi t h filteri ng p a p er

and the oi l to be filt er ed t he l id is pl a ced u po n it and ,
,

m ust n ot b e r e mov ed except for t he p u rpos e of po u ri ng

,

more oil i nto t he fu nnel The air i n t he bottl e F is

.
 MA T E R I A L S F OR MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY . 39

d is pl a ced oi l droppi ng i nto it and esca p es

by t he ,

t hro ugh r k a nd r i nto t he funnel a nd th u s o nl y t he

’
, ,

air in t he bot tl e a nd funnel ca n act u po n t he oil .

T he oth e r m ethod for t he co m pl et e p u rifica tio n of

e xpr e s sed oi l is by r ectifica tio n or d istill atio n wit h
water F o r thi s p urpos e t he oil togeth er wit h a l i ttl e
.
,

water i s bro ugh t i nto o ne of t he stills d escri bed l ate r

,

o n a nd t he oil distill ed o v e r
,
It i s so meti mes d i ffic ul t
.

to obta i n t he l a st portio n of t he oil esp eci a lly with a ,

still h eat ed by d irect fire a nd i t is th ere fore prefe rabl e

,

to co mbi ne it with a fresh qu a nti ty of t he s a me oil to

b e d istill ed .

D is tilla tion — Th ere a re a t prese nt two m et hods i n

use . T he o ne i s fo u nd ed u po n t he direct a ctio n of
t he h eat t he oth e r u po n t he use of st ea m
,
T he .

first was for merly in g eneral pra cti c e a nd is stil l ,

larg ely e m ploy ed in F ra nce a nd E ngla nd a nd to a ,

li m ited exte nt in th is co u ntry It i s how e v er v ery .

, ,

d efici ent i n ma ny r espects A s t he stills m u st necess a

.

rily be of s mall cap a ci ty o nly s m a ll q ua ntiti es can be

,

d isti ll ed at o ne ti me a nd t he oils v ery rarely possess

,

t he p ec uli a r odor d ue to th em a nd so m eti m es t he odor ,

i s e v en altered I n mixi ng too l i ttl e wate r with t he

.

m at eri als to be ex tracted th ere is da ng e r th a t e mpyr eu

,

ma tic oils will be for med a l a rge q ua ntity of wat er 0 11 ,

the oth e r ha nd is of disadva nt a ge i n so far as i n cas e

, ,

t he p erfu me ma terial s co nta i n littl e oil o nly a p erfu med

-
,

w a ter b ut no o il wil l be obtai ned I n ord er to avoid

, ,
.

th es e i nco nv eni e nces , or at l ea st to do a w ay with so me

, ,

of th e m a noth e r pl a n w a s d e vised The materials

,
—
to .

be distill ed w e re spread u po n si e v es wh ich w e re s us ,

pend ed i n t he u p per p a rt of a still so that th ey m ight ,

4O MAN U FACT URE OF PE R F U MERY .

be p e netra ted fro m belo w It i s tr ue no scorch i ng i s

.

possibl e in t his ca se as w as i n t he oth e r process wh en

,

t he h ea ti ng w a s co n ti n u ed aft e r all t he w a t e r had e v a p

orated a nd t he o il ret a i ns its prope r color bu t by thi s

, ,

m ethod o nly s m a ll q ua n titi es ca n be e xtra c t ed at a ti m e .

T he still g e ner a lly u se d for distill a tio n w ith d irect h eat

r es em bl es so m uch a n ordi na ry whisk ey sti ll a s to need
no fu rth e r d escriptio n h e r e .

F o r t he acc urat e d ete r m i na tio n of t he p e rc enta g e of

vol a til e oil a v eg etabl e s ubs ta nce wil l yi eld or to obta i n ,

t he o i l fro m v e ry c ostly r a w m a te ri a l s t he s m all g l a ss ,

a pparat us F i 2 i s u s ed T he fl as k A wi th a c ap a
, g .
,
.
,

city o f u p t o 5 or 6 q u arts s erv es for a still I n t he

,
.

t ub e t shap ed lik e the neck of a bottl e is i ns erted by

, ,

m ea ns of a cork a fu nnel t u be l r ea ch i ng to t he botto m

, , ,

of t he flask The neck of t he flask passes into t he

.

cool ing pipe wh ich li es in a s o call ed L iebig cool er

,
-
.

Thi s co nsists of a w id e gl ass t ube 0 i nto the lo w e r end

-
, ,

of wh ich a t it flows cold wate r fro m t he r es ervo ir D

, , ,

displ a ci ng t he h ea ted w a te r at g The lo wer end of the

.
 MA T ER I A L S F OR MANUFACT URE OF PERF U MERY . 41

cool i ng pip e i s co cted

nne with t he ck shap ed t ub e 12
ne -
,

u nd e r wh ich sta nds t he v ess e l for t he r ec eptio n of t he

distillate To prev ent the crack i ng of t he flask wh ich

.
,

m ight r ead ily h a p pen with t he us e of dir ect h eat it is ,

pl a ced in a v essel fill ed with sand or water .

A v ery good s mall app a rat u s for the d istillatio n of

volatil e oi l i s show n i n F ig 3 It i s k now n as a si phon
. .

still It co nsis t s of a do u bl e wall ed boil er s u r m o u nted

.
-
,

by a still h ead which i s provid ed with a mech a n ism for

-
,

k eepi ng t he co nte nts of the boil er i n m oti o n Th is .

stirri ng a pp a ra t us co nsists of a p erp endic u lar sh a ft b ear ,

FIG . 3 .

ing a fra me work of i ro n c urv ed s o as to correspo nd to

,

t he i nt erior shap e of t he still a nd o n t he o utsid e carryi ng

,

a ch a i n wh ich scrap e s ov e r t he i nne r s u rface of t he sti ll

w hil e t he stirr e r i s b e i ng t ur ned Th is may be do ne

.
42 MANUFA CT URE OF PERFUMERY .

e ith er by ha nd or by s tea m T he sti ll h a vi ng b een

.

ch a rg ed with the material to be extra cted is fill ed up ,

with w a te r to withi n a few inch es of the top of the body

of the still a nd the l atter i s h eated by ad m itti ng st ea m
, .

T he v a pors a ri si ng a re co nd uct ed to a cool er sit ua ted at

a high er l ev el th a n the stil l its el f and t he co nd ens ed ,

l iq u id is coll ected in a rece iv er wh ere t he oi l a nd w at er

,

s epara te Th is r ece i v e r i s provid ed with two fa ucets

.
,

one nea r t he top a nd t he oth er near t he botto m If t he .

oil passi ng ov er is h eavi er th a n water t he e xcess of t he ,

l att er is r e m ov ed by t he upp e r fa uc et i f t he oil swi m s

o n t he w a t e r t he low e r fa uc et i s r eg u l a ted so a s to
,

allo w t he w a ter to escap e i n abo u t t he sa me ratio as i t

e nt e rs th e r e c e i v e r I n eith e r cas e t he co nd e ns ed w a te r
.

is mad e to r un back i nto t he still and t he loss of oil ,

is th ere fore greatly r ed uced

, ,
.

S o m eti mes a si ngl e w a ll ed s till is u sed a nd distilla

-
,

ti o n ca rri ed on wi th di r ect stea m This method i s .

,

howev er not s u itabl e wh ere the pres ence of water i s

,

nec essary for i nsta nce i n t he prod uctio n of oil of bitter

, ,

al m onds .

A si m pl e way of co n v e rti ng a n ordi nary still i nto

u se wi th st ea m i s show n i n F i 4 F or t he h el me t of
g . .

t he still A is s u bstit uted a cyl i nd rica l v ess e l B wi t h , ,

a n Op en i ng i n t h e botto m The materials to be dis

.

till ed a re bro u ght i nto B a nd rest u po n a wire botto m

,

to prev ent particl es fro m falli ng i nto A F ro m t he .

u pp e r portio n of B a pip e R l eads to t he co nd e nser

, ,
.

A s may b e seen fro m t he i ll u stratio n the still A s erv es ,

o nly for t he genera tio n of stea m The latte r in passi ng .

,

t hro ugh R h eats t he co nten ts and absorbs the l iberated

,

Oil , th e co mbi ned vapors passi ng i n to t he co nd en s e r .

 MA T ER I A L S F OR MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY . 43

This si m pl e modificatio n of the ord i na ry still affords

so m e adva ntag e t he pri ncip a l b ei ng t he avoi d a nc e of
,

t he co nd e ns a ti o n of a l a rg e q ua ntity of w a t er This i n .

i ts el f wo uld not a mo u nt to mu ch b ut i t has to be tak en

,

i nto co nsi d eratio n that tho ugh vol a til e oils a re o nly
,

FIG . 4 .

v ery spari ngly sol ubl e i n wat e r th ey are nev e rth el ess
,

sol ubl e in i t to s uch a d eg ree as to i mpart to it th e i r

characte risti c o d or a nd t ast e S uch aro mati z ed water ca n
.

be uti liz ed in t he m a nu fa ct u r e of l i q u e u rs a nd pe r fu
m ery bu t to t he m a nu fact u re r who restricts h i ms el f t o
,

t he prod u ctio n of vol a til e oils alo ne th i s r e pr es ents a ,

loss a nd it i s th erefore necess a ry for h im to co nd ense a s

,

litt l e wat er as possibl e A nd t hi s obj ect ca n o nly be

.

attai ned by the u se of di rect stea m .

A si mpl e apparat u s fo r t he p u rpos e is show n i n F ig .

5. T he still b provid ed with a h el met rests fr ee u po n

, ,
44 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

a s u ita bl e S l i pp or t To prev ent cool i ng it is s u rro und ed

.
,

wi th a wood en j ack et M The material to b e extracted

,

r ests upo n a p erforated botto m b eneat h wh ich enters the

,

FI G . 5 .

pip e H D, wh ich co nd ucts t he stea m fro m t he boil er .

F o r t he m or e un iform distrib u tio n of t he stea m it is ,

reco mmend ed to let th is pip e end in a p erforated coil .

T he wate r co nd e ns ed i n t he apparat u s its elf is dis

'

charg ed thro u gh the short pip e I I plac ed i n t he low est

-

part of the still .

A n i m prov ed a pp a ratus for distilli ng d ry s u bsta nces

by stea m has b een patented in Ger ma ny by M essrs .

S ch i m mel C o of L eip zic

.
,
The tal l co nical col umn
.

at t he l e ft (F ig 6 ) is t he still
. . A bo u t e ight i nch es fro m
.

t he botto m i s a p e rforated di aphr ag m or fals e botto m ,

u po n wh ich t he mat e rial to be distill ed is pl a c ed by i n

t rod ucing i t thro u gh t he still h ead A p erforat ed coil

-
.

b elo w t he di a phrag m proj ects st ea m u pwards thro ugh

46 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY

of stea m nearly all t he oi l still retai ned is a gai n vola

,

t il ized wi th the st ea m of t he wate r a nd both agai n con

d u cted to t he cool er .

A ttem pts ha v e b een mad e to effe ct t he distillatio n of

vol a til e oils w i tho u t t he u s e ofs tea m by m eans of hot air ,

b u t co mparati v e exp eri m ents hav e sh ow n th a t l ess oil

i s obtai ned Wi th t he use of st ea m t he v eg eta bl e
.
,

s ubsta nc es sw ell u p by t he a bsorptio n of water and th us ,

a ffor d a fre e p a ss a g e to t he oil li b e ra t ed fro m t he sacs

,

co nta i ni ng i t W ith t he u s e of hot a ir o n t he o t h er

.
,

h a nd t he s ur fa ce of t he p l a n t is co mpl etely dri ed a nd

,

sh ri v els to a h a rd sol id mass wh ich o ffers c o nsid era bl e

,

resi sta nc e to t he process of distill atio n .

Th is inj u rio u s effect of hot a i r ca n be so m ewh at

ov erco me by thoro ughly m oist e ni ng t he pl a nts to be dis
till ed a nd a llowi ng t he hot ai r b e fore enteri ng t he st ill
, , ,

to p a ss thro ugh a pi p e fill ed w i t h S po ng es co ns tantly

k ept w et B ut this process o ffers no ad vantag es ov er
.

that by stea m The a pparat u s req u i red i s far m ore

.

co mpl icated ; a nd b esid es a v entil a tor has to be pro

, ,

v id ed for forci ng t he hot a ir thro u gh t he app a ra t us .

S ep a r a ti on of t h e oil a nd w a ter — A S pre vio u sly

.

mentio ned t he sp ecific gra v i ty of m ost volati l e oils is

l ess tha n that of w a ter This behavior i s u til iz ed for
.

t he s eparatio n of t he oi l a nd w a ter by m eans of a s o ,

call ed F lorenti ne flask (F ig .It co nsists of a g l ass

flask prov id ed near the botto m w ith a pi p e a r isi ng ve r , ,

tically to near t he neck 0 of t he flask wh er e it i s bent

dow nwards as show n i n t he ill ustratio n The m i xed .

l iq u id of water and oil drips fro m the cooli ng pip e i nto

t he flask a nd t he wat er w b e i ng sp ec ifically h eav ier
, , ,

s eparate s fro m t he oil float ing on t he t Op a nd grad ually ,

 MA T ER I A L S F OR MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY . 47

a sc en ds i n t h e p p1 e a fi nally ,
flow i ng ov e r at d O ils .

p
S e ci fic a lly h ea vi e r tha n w a t e r a r e ca u gh t i n r e c e iv e rs
provid ed with a discharg e pip e near the m o uth of the-

flask as show n i n F ig 8 . .

FIG . 7 . FIG . 8 .

The oil d el iv ered fro m t he r ece i v ers i s h ow e v e r still , ,

m ix ed w ith so me wate r dirt et c a nd for th e ir s ep a ra

, ,
.
,

tio n is allow ed to sta nd q u i etly for so m e ti me The .

fi na l sep a ra tio n is effected e ith e r by si mply po uri ng off

t he oil esp ecially i f l a rg e r q u a ntiti es h av e to be h a ndl ed
, ,

or with the assista nc e of a s eparator funnel (F ig Th i s

-
.

co nsi sts of t he glass fu nnel T sec u red to t he sta nd G

-
,

a nd provid ed with a clos e fitt in lid P Th fl u id is

g e
-
.
,

pou r ed i nto t he fu nnel t he lid pl a ced i n positi o n a nd t he

, ,

whol e allow ed to rest until t he water W i s co m pl etely

s eparated fro m t he oi l 0 The oil is th en s eparated .

fro m t he last drops of wate r by carefully op eni ng t he

fau c et H
M ost volatil e oils are obtai ned by di still a tio n b ut this ,
48 MANUFA C TURE OF PERFUMERY .

method i s not practica bl e for s epara ti ng t he odorifero us

pri ncipl e of ma ny of the m ost sw eet scented a nd d elica te
-

flow e rs partially b ecau se t he flow ers co ntai n too littl e

,

oil a nd partially b eca u s e t he oi l wo uld los e i n q ua lity

,
‘

i f obtai ned by distillatio n .

FIG . 9 .

Extr a cti on — F or obtai ni ng the vol atil e oils by ex

tractio n vario us sol v ents s u ch as eth er bis ulph id e of ,

carbo n etc m ay be e mploy ed

,
.
,
C a re fully rectifi ed
.

p etrol eu m eth e r i s v ery s uitabl e for t he p u rpos e It

-
.

co m pl etely e vaporates at abo u t 1 2 2 F and wh en s uffi°

.
,

c ien t l p u ri fi e d do e s n ot poss ess a d isagr eeabl e o d or

y .

T he proc ess of e xtractio n i s bri efly a s follows : The

ma te r ia l to be extract ed is treated in a dige ster wi t h
p etrol eu m eth er or one of t he above na med solv ents
- -
.

T he sol uti o n is th en draw n off a nd t he solv ent e vapo

 MA T ER I A L S F OR MANUFAC T U RE OF PERFUMERY . 49

r a t ed in a still T he r eco nd ensed solv ent flows i mm e

.

d ia tel y back i nto t he dig est e r a nd furth e r extracts t he

mat eria l co ntai ned th er ei n T he Op erati o n is r ep eat ed
.

u nti l noth i ng sol u bl e r emai ns I n practic e so m e d iffi .

cu l t ies a re how e v e r
,
co nnected with th is proc ess si nce
, ,

b esid es t he volatil e oils resi ns a nd colori ng and extr a c

, ,

tiv e s ubs ta nc es a re dissolv ed whi ch h av e to be r em o v ed

, ,

as w ell as t he last tra c es of t he solv ent as oth er ,

wis e t he Oil wo uld acq u ire a for eig n odor F urth er .

t he sol v en ts m entio ned a re v ery volatil e a nd i nfl a m

m abl e r eq u iri ng the great est prec a u tio ns as r eg a rds
,

fire . F o r th es e r easo ns t he extracti o n proc ess i s not

s u itabl e for ma ny p urposes a nd tho ugh at first gr ea t ,

hop es w ere ent ertai ned in r egard to it its u s e i s ,

l i mited to s ubsta nces w ith a l a rg e co nt ent of vol ati l e

oil.

F or extractio n o n a s mal l sca l e t he appar at u s F ig 1 0 , ,

.
,

i s a v ery s uitabl e o ne It i s esp eci ally adapt ed for

.

m a nufactu rers of p erfum ery w h o ,

wish to extract fresh flo w ers I t F G 10

.
I " '

co nsists of a cy l i ndri ca l v ess el 0 , ,

of t in pl ate provid ed o n the bot

,

t o m with t he st e p — cock a a nd t he
pi p e b The l id D fits i nto a
.

g utter R r unn i ng aro und t he

, ,

edg e of C a nd is h er metically
,

closed by w ater i n R The cyl .

i nd er i s fill ed with t he v eg etabl e

s ubsta nce to be ex tracted a nd ,

s uffi ci ent p etrol eum eth er or bis ul phid e of carbo n t o

-

cov er it po u red in The l id is th en adj usted t he g u tter

,
.
,

R fill ed wit h wat er a nd t he apparat us allow ed to sta nd

4
5O MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

q u i etly for forty m i nut es To remov e the fl u id fro m

.

t he cyl ind er the fa uc et o i n t he lid i s first op ened a nd

, ,

th e n t h —
e st e p cock a ; t he fl uid escap es at b a nd i s ,

ca ught i n a w ell clos ed v ess el The operatio n may be

-
.

r ep eat ed o nce or twic e or t he v eg etabl e s u bstance i s

,

press ed out by m eans of a wood en pl ate a nd the app a ,

rat u s fill ed a ne w The fa ucet h serv es for emptyi ng

.

t he g u tt e r R .

Extractio n b e i ng fi nish ed t he cock 0 is Op ened a nd

, ,

th en t he cook a and t he fl u id a llow ed to r u n into t he

,

flask o f t he distill i ng a pparat u s (F ig F o r worki ng

.

o n a larg e sc a l e t h e fl a sk i s h ow e v e r too s m all a nd i s

, , , ,

s u itably r eplaced by a bottl e shap ed t in v essel F (Fig

-
,
.

t he co n ical cov e r D of which is s ec u r ed by m ea n s

of t he r ubb e r ri ng R a nd i ro n scre w cl a mps S A -
,
.

b ent gl a ss t ub e fitted i nto t he cov er i s co nnect ed with

t h e cooli ng pip e of t he apparat us show n i n F ig 2
-
B ut . .

t h e oils pr epar e d by extr a ctio n a re not s u ffi ci ently p u ri

fied by m e r e r ectificatio n as tr a c es of the solv ent adh er e
,

t ena cio usly to th em wh ich can o nly be rem ov ed by p a ssi ng

,

a c u rr e nt of ai r thro u gh t he oil B ut co nta ct w ith a ir

.

has a n i nj uri o u s effect u po n the

FIG 1 1
. .

d elicacy of t he odor F o r ex .

p ensi v e oils a c urr ent of ai r

sho uld th er efor e nev er be u s ed ,

b ut on e of p u r e carbo ni c acid .

F ig 1 2 shows a s uitabl e a p
.

parat us for t he p u rpose T he .

larg e bottl e A fill ed half full ,

w ith pi eces of wh it e m a rbl e is ,

clos ed with a do u bly p erfora ted -

cork ; thro ugh o ne of t he hol es

i s i s erted a f
n u nn —
el t u b e a nd ,
 MA T ER I A L S F OR MANUFAC T URE OF PER FUMERY . 51

th ro ugh the oth er a short tu b e b ent a t a righ t angl e .

T he l a tt e r is co n nect ed wit h a noth er t u b e wh ich r ea ch es

to the botto m Of t he v ess el B i n wh ic h i s also i ns ert ed
,

a t ub e op en i n th e botto m a nd a sh ort t ube b ent a t a

,

righ t a ngl e A lo ngsid e B sta nds a noth e r v ess el 0

.
, ,

a rra ng ed i n t h e sa m e m a nne r The t u b e l eadi ng fro m

.

C is co nnect ed with a t in p ip e D with a ros e l ik e ex

, ,
-

a ns ion o n i ts low e r e nd This pi p e is i n s ert e d i n t he

p .

gl a ss b alloo n co ntai ni ng t he vol a til e oil F i nally a .

,

pip e l eads to the flask E fill ed wi th water .

To put th e appara t us i n op eratio n stro ngly dil uted ,

hydrochloric a cid is po u red t hro ugh the fu nnel t ub e -

u po n t he pi ec es of marbl e i n A w h ich ca uses t he d e

,

v el o ment of a c u rr e nt of carbo nic acid B ut as t he

p .

FIG . 12 .

l a tter ca rri es alo ng wat er a nd hydrochloric acid it has ,

to be freed fro m th em b e fore co m i ng in co ntact w ith

t he volatil e oil . T he v ess els B a nd O s erv e for t he p ur
pos e B i s h a l f fill ed with water whi l e 0 co ntai ns
.
,

stro ng s ulph uric acid I n B t he hydrochloric acid car

.

ri ed alo ng with the c urrent of carbo nic acid is r eta i ned ,

52 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

wh il e t he water i s fix ed on t he su lph u ric acid i n C ’

.

The cu rrent of carbo n i c aci d passi ng o ut fro m O i s p er

fectl y p u r e and ent ers th e volatil e oil th ro ugh t he fine
,

p erfora tio ns in t he pi pe D It absorbs the tra ces of

.

solv ent st ill adh eri ng to t he oil and fi nally pass es out ,

t h ro ugh t he w at er i n t he bottl e F .

Volatil e oil s obtai ned by extractio n a nd p uri fi ed by ,

a c urr ent of carbo n ic aci d will k eep for y ears witho ut

,

u nd e rgoi ng alteratio n i f pl a c ed i mm ediat ely i n he r m et i

,

c a lly clos ed v essels and stor ed in a d a rk pl a ce Oils .

p u rifi ed by a cu rr ent of air alw ays beco m e so mew h a t

th ickly fl ui d by storing a nd partial l y los e th ei r fine
,

odor w h ich i s d u e to t he o xyg en absorb ed d ur i ng t he

,

process .

F o r t he extractio n of oil o n a larg er sca l e t he appa ,

rat us S how n in F ig 1 3 i s v ery s u itabl e It co nsists of

. .

two pri ncip a l parts t he actua l extracti ng v ess el E and

, ,

t he still B . The extracti ng v ess el E S its in a v a t co n

tai n i ng cold wat er IV t he arr a ng em ent b ei ng s uch that
, ,

t he h eated wat e r ca n b e r em ov ed a nd r epl a c ed by cold .

The still B S its in a boil e r I{ fill ed wi th hot water

, ,
.

T he apparat us i s charg ed as follows : The co n ical

h ead 0 of the ex tract ing v essel E i s u nscrew ed and it s
-

co nnectio n at H w ith t he pip e R loosened T he ex .

tracti ng v essel i s th en charg ed with t he v eg etabl e s ub

sta nce t he h ead 0 r eplaced a nd the co nnectio n with
, ,

t h e pip e R r estor ed The cocks H and I I are th en

.
2 ,

Op ened a nd t he r e q u ir ed q u antity of solv ent i s bro ugh t

,

i nto the still B oth cocks a re th en clos ed and t he cooks

.
,

H a nd If , op ened The wate r i n the boil er is th en

.

h eated u ntil t he co nte nts of t he still co m mence to boil .

The vapor of th e solv ent a sc en ds thro ugh t he pip e R ;

54 MANUFAC T UR E OF PERFUMERY .

The a ppara t us m ay also be so arra nged that t he sti ll

B is co nnect ed with two ex tracti ng v ess els wh ich a re
u s ed alt er nat ely w h il e t he co nt e n ts of o ne a re b e i ng ex
,

tracted t he oth er is em pti ed and r efill ed .

F o r worki ng o n a v ery larg e scal e Heyl s e xtracti ng ,

’

apparat us show n i n F ig 1 4 is ve ry s u itabl e It con

, .
, .

sists of a ba ttery of fo ur or m or e cast i ro n or S h eet i ro n

cyli nd ers A to A co m mu nicati ng w ith each oth er a nd
, 1

s urro und ed by stea m j ack ets The extracti ng v ess els

.

a r e so a rr a ng ed that th ey ca n be em pti e d by tilti ng

,

wh ich i s r a th er inco n v eni ent as all t he pip es hav e to

,

b e u nscr e w ed I n each cyli nd er clos e abov e t he botto m

.

i s a p erforat ed plat e cov er ed w i th fi ne wi r e ga u z e u po n -

,

wh ich t he materi a l to be extracted is plac ed The .

cy li nd er is fill ed to t he top and aft er pl a ci ng a si m i l a r

, ,

plate upo n it t he u pp er Op en i ng is clos ed by a lid s us

,

p end ed to a cra ne T he cyli nd er as w ell as the lid is

.
, ,

FIG . 14 .

provid ed with a broad fla ng e b e tw een wh ich is pl a ced

,

a h e m p tiss u e fir m ly pr ess ed tog eth e r by 1 2 cl a m ps to

s erv e for packi ng A fter filli ng the cyl i nd ers w ith t he

.
 MA T ERI A LS F OR MANUFAC T U RE OF PERFUMERY . 55

m at erial to be extra cted a nd arra ngi ng t he p a cki ng the ,

sol v ent (bis u lph id e of carbo n) is co nd u ct ed fro m a r eser

voi r th ro ugh t he pri nci pal pip e B to t he ex tra cti ng , ,

v essels a nd is i ntrod uced i nto A , by op en i ng the cock

,

wh ich co mm u nicates wi th the pip e B T he b is ul .

h id e of ca rbo n pass es thro u g h t he b ent pip e D e nt e rs

p
thro ugh t he cock E, b elo w t he fal s e botto m of t he
,

cyli nd e r A , a nd after p enetrati ng t he m ass a nd filli ng

, ,

t he cyli nd er r u ns thro u gh t he cock 0 of t he b e nt pi p e

, ,

D a nd t he cock E i nto t he cyli nd e r A 3

r eachi ng t he
fo u rth cyli nd er in t he sa me m anner thro u gh t he coc k
t he pip e D 3 a nd t he cock E ,
F ro m t he last cyl in 4
.

d e r it p a ss es as a t h oro ughly s a t u rat ed oil sol uti o n i nto

a r e s e rvoi r i n whi ch a vac uu m h a s b ee n cr eat ed to pro
,

mot e t he circ ul a tio n of t he fl uid in t he enti re a pp a rat us .

A ft er a q ua ntity of o il sol utio n corr espo ndi ng to t he

co ntents of t he cyl i nd er A ha s arriv ed t he cock G i s 4 , ,

closed a nd t he cock C op ened wh ereby t he cyl i nd er 4 ,

A is co nnect ed with A , by t he b ent pip e D a nd t he 4

cock E l .

A fte r t he exha u stio n of t he co nt en ts of t he cyl i nd e r

A which i s r ecog ni z ed by mea ns of t he glass t u b e H ,

pl aced o n D by the fl u id r u nni ng off bei ng colorl ess t he

, ,

cooks O a nd E a re clos ed a nd C a nd E op e ned wh e r eby

, , 3 , , ,

t he solv ent r u ns i n to A a nd fro m th er e to A a nd A

1

A , b e i ng o m itt ed To effect thi s o m issio n and a t t he

.
,

sa me ti me not to pre v e nt t he i ntrod uctio n of b isu lph i d e

of carbo n ,
O a nd C a re s o call ed two w a y 4,
- -

cocks which wh en pl aced i n o ne positio n co nnect t he

, , ,

pri ncipal pip e B with t he bra nch pi p es D but i n terr upt ,

a furth er flo w thro ugh t he principal pip e B whil e in

56 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

t he oth er positio n th ey clos e t he pip es D a nd Op en t he

pri ncip a l pip e B .

T he cyli nd e r A is h o w e v er still fill ed with t he sol

, , ,

v ent and material s a tu ra ted with it To r em ov e the sol .

v e nt t he d is charg e cock K on t he botto m of the cyl in

, ,

d er is op e ned w hich co m mun icates with t he discha rge

,

i e J thro ugh wh ich t he bi s ulph id e of c a rbo n i s co n

p p ,

d uct ed i nto a res ervoi r The d ischarg e is pro moted by

.

Op eni ng t he cock co nnected w ith the pi p e L a nd ,

t he a d m itta nc e of co mpre ss ed a i r which di spl a c es t he ,

liq uid solv ent A ft er t he flow of t he l atter has c eased

.
,

t he stea m cocks o n t he j a ck et 0 , a nd t he cyl ind er P , ar e

Op e ne d u nd er co n sta nt ad m issio n of air a nd S i m ulta ne o u s

i ntrod uctio n of stea m thro ug h t he pip e N i nto t he upp er

part of t he cyli nd er .

T he solv ent (bis ul ph id e of carbo n) co n v ert ed i nto

v a por by t he h eat i s co nd ucted togeth e r with t he
,

aq ueo us v a por by t he ad m issio n of a ir thro ugh the cock

,

K t he pip e J and a cooli ng pip e placed b et w een t he

,, ,

extracti ng v e ss els a nd t he r es e rvoir a nd coll ect ed in a ,

rese rvoi r to be r e us ed -
.

On acco u nt of t he grea t vol a tility of bis u lphid e of

carbo n co nsid erabl e loss wo uld how ev er be i nc urred
, , ,

by t he abov e m entio ned ad miss io n of ai r To avoid

-
.

th i s t he res er voir s ervi ng for t he r e c eptio n of t he con

,

d ens ed bis ulph id e of carbo n a nd aq u eo us vapor is clos ed ,

a nd co nnect e d by a pip e w ith a lo ng narrow horizo ntal , ,

cyl ind er half fill ed w i th oil a nd provid ed with a fa n ,

sh a ft T he v a pors of bis ul ph id e of ca rbo n enteri ng t he

.

cyl i nd er fro m t he r eservoir a re absor bed tog eth er with ,

t he air by t he oil t he s urfa c e of wh ich is co nst a ntly agi

,

fated b v t he fa n shaft wh il e t he air r end er ed entir ely

-
, ,
 MA T ER I A L S F OR MANUFA C T URE OF PE RFUMERY . 57

i nodoro us passes out at t he oth er end The bis u lph id e

,
.

of ca rbo n i s fi nally s eparated fro m the oil by distillati o n

a nd ag a i n u s ed .

A ft e r the cyli nd e r A i s s u ffici ent ly st ea m ed it i s

, ,

em pti e d a nd a gai n charg ed with m at eri a l a nd co nnect ed

with t he cyli nd er A wh il e t he o t h er cyl ind ers u nd ergo

t he sa me m a nip u l a tio ns d escrib ed abov e .

T he sat ura t ed oil sol uti o n i s s ubj ected to distill a

t io n wh i ch is r eadily effecte d i n Heyl
’
a pp a ra t u s ,
,

F ig 1 5
. . The low er part of t he still A of boil er

FIG . 15 .

pl ate is s urro und ed by t he stea m

j ack et B i nto wh ich
-
,

stea m is ad mitted t h ro ugh 0 a nd t he co nd ensed w ate r

discharged thro ugh D The co ncentrat ed oi l sol utio n
.

r uns fro m a res ervoi r sta ndi ng at a high er l ev el

,
58 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

thro u gh t he pip e E into t he still the a d m issio n of a ,

s uffici en t q ua ntity b ei ng i nd ica ted by the ga uge F T he .

bis ulph id e of ca rbo n bro ught to t he boili ng poi nt (1 1 4 0

F ) by t he st ea m i ntro d uce d i nto t he j ack et vaporiz es

.
,

q u ickly ; t he v a porizatio n be i ng still m or e accel erated

by r e volvi ng t he stirrer I I by m ea ns of the cran k G ,
.

T he v a pors of bis u lph i d e of ca rbo n escap e thro u gh

fo u r op eni ngs i n t he u pp e r p a rt of the still i nto a ,

ca pacio us wor m t he l ow e r part of wh ich enters

, ,

u nd e r wat er a r es ervoi r
,
.

N otwithsta ndi ng t he v olatil ity of bis u lph id e of car

bon t he oi l r etai ns a portio n of i t so t ena cio u sly th at a
,

co m pl ete separa tio n c an not b e acco mpl ish ed by t he ‘

i ntrod uctio n of st ea m i nto t he j ack et B H e nc e i n .

,

ord e r to vaporiz e t he last traces of t he so l v ent a ir i s ,

i ntrod uced i n to t he oi l thro ugh the pip e K t he low e r ,

e nd of whi ch i s p e rforat ed A ft er co m pl eted distillatio n

.

t he oi l is disch a rg ed thro u gh L .

M acer a ti on o r i nfu s i on — This proc ess i s em ploy ed

.

for flow ers w ith an i nco nsid erabl e co ntent of volatil e oi l

or whos e odori fero us s ubsta nc e wo u ld s uffer d eco mp o
s it i on or alte ratio n by distillatio n The process is .

fo u nd ed o n the affini ty of odorifero us s ubstances for

fatty bodi es wh ich wh e n i m preg nated with th em a re
, ,

ca ll ed p oma d es Th es e a re a fte rwards m ad e to yi eld t he

.

aro ma to stro ng alcohol so that fi na lly th ere is Obta i ned

,

a sol utio n of t he volatil e oil i n a lcohol fro m wh ich the

p u re oi l is obta i ned by distilli ng OR t he alcohol The .

fa t us ed ol i v e oil lard etc sho uld be entirely neu tral

, , ,
.
, ,

i e fr ee fro m e v e ry tra ce of a cid

. .
,
The fa ts ar e p uri .

fied by trea ti ng th em s e v eral ti mes in the h eat wi th

w eak soda lye and th en wash i ng care fully with water
-
 MA T ER I A L S F OR MAN UFACT URE OF PERFUMERY . 59

un til t he l ast traces of t he l ye a re r em ov ed and t he fat ,

sho w s n o al k a li ne or acid r ea ctio n .

With t he us e of ol iv e oi l t he s o ca ll ed Hu iles “ -

an ti ues a r e ob t ai ned wh ich a r e m er ely sol uti o ns of

q ,

v olatil e oils i n t he fix ed oil By t h e us e of l a r d etc

.
,
.
,

t he genu i ne p oma d es a r e obt a i ned wh ich a re di r ectly ,

u s ed as exp en s iv e a rticl e s of p erfum e ry bu t i n t he ,

factori es s erve as a starti ng poi nt for t he pr epara tion of

vol atil e oil S .

The old proc ess of mac eratio n wh ich is still i n us e ,

i n so m e p a rts of F r a nc e i s as follows : A c ertai n q u a n

,

tity of fat i s plac ed i n a n ena mel ed i ro n or porcel a i n

a n provid ed with a wat e r or st ea m b a th Wh en t h e
p
fa t i s m elted the freshly g a th er ed flow ers fro m which
,

t he aro m a i s to be e xtra ct ed a re throw n in a nd l e ft to

dig est for fro m tw elv e to tw enty fo ur ho urs the fat b ei ng
-
,

k ept fl uid a nd stirred freq u ently Wh en the flow ers a r e .

co mpl etely exha u sted t he fa t i s stra i ned fro m t h em i nto

,

fresh pots i n wh ich i t i s agai n macerat ed with fresh

,

flow ers as b efor e Th is Op eratio n is rep ea t ed te n to

.

fift een ti mes until t he pom ad e has acq u ired t he d esired

str ength .

E xp eri enc e h ow e v e r has show n that volatil e oils

, ,

prep ar ed by th i s process poss ess a fi ne r odor t he shorte r .

t he ti m e t he flo we rs r em a i n i n co ntact w ith the fat

'

P iv e r has d e vi s ed a n a pparat u s whi ch r ed u c es t h e

ti me of m ace ratio n to t he short est p eriod possibl e T he .

k ettl e to t he l eft F ig 1 6 s u ppl ies the fa t h eated to the

,
.
,

prop er temp era t ure whi ch circ ulates slowly thro ugh t he
,

ma c erati ng ta nk i n wh ich a co nsta nt tem p erat u r e of

,

149 0
F is m ai nt a i ned by m ea ns of a st ea m pip e
. The .

m ac erati ng ta n k is di vid ed i nto co mpartments , in wh ich

 60 MANUFAC T URE OF PE R F U MERY

t he s ubsta nce wh ich has passed thro ugh al l t he com

a r tm e nt s it is fro m ti m e to ti m e r emov ed fill ed w ith
p ,

FI G . 16 .

s ubsta nce a nd th en attach ed to t he right t he

, ,

oth e r bask ets b ei ng m o ved t o t he next co m p a rt ment to

t he l eft I n this way t he fr esh s u bsta nc e has to trav ers e
.

e ach co m part m en t fro m right to l e ft w h il e t h fat flows

e ,

slo w ly fro m l eft to right and sat urated with t he p er

,

fume of t he s ubsta nce coll ects i n the ta nk on the ex

treme right .

M aceratio n i s e mploy ed for t he flow ers of t he ora ng e

(citr u s a u r a ntu m
) of
,
t h e m ock ora n g e
(P hi l ade
lp hu s

cor ona r i u s
,) of t h e acacia (a ca ci a F a r nes ia na ) of t he ,

v i ol et (vi ola od or a ta ) of t he m ig no nette (r es ed a od or a ta )

, .

r
The a bs or
O

process of t or fl as
O O

p i on
,
en eui a e
g,
It Is
62 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

un ti l t he oi l is s uffici ently impreg na ted wi th aro ma wh en ,

t he cloth i s s ubj e cte d to pr ess u r e a nd t he expr ess ed oil

filtered .

F G 17I . .

Thi s process is v ery t edio u s r eq u iri ng much l a bor

,

a nd a lo ng ti m e for t he i mpr eg nati o n of t he fa t or oil ,

b ut notwithsta ndi ng its fa ults it i s stil l p u rs ued to a

, ,

grea t extent so me F r ench fir ms u si ng 3000 s u ch fra m es

,

d u ri ng the s ea so n .

With t he app a rat us show n i n F ig 1 8 the process of

,
.
,

a bsorp tio n can h ow e v e r

,
be co nd uct ed with v ery li t tl e
,

e xp ens e of labor a nd t i me It has t he fu rth er a dv a ntage

.

that t he flow ers do not co me in direct co ntact with the

fat wh er eby a savi ng of t he latter is effected and i t is
, ,

l ess l iabl e to ra ncidi ty .

T he a pp a rat u s co nsists of a t a ll w ood en box provid ed

w ith doors wh ich ca n be h er metically clos ed I n t he .

box are pl aced upo n br a ck ets a nu m b er of gl a ss plat es ,

g, so arra ng e d o n e a bov e t he oth e r th a t for i n sta,

nc e ,

thos e with une v en nu mb ers a re on the l eft sid e l eavi ng ,

a n op en spac e to t he right w h il e thos e with e v e n n u m

,

b e rs a re a rra nged o n the right S id e wi th an op en space

to t he l e ft .

F ro m t he botto m of the box a pip e pass es i nto a sh eet

i ro n cyli nder, K fill ed loos ely w ith flo w ers a nd pro
’
, ,
 MA T ER I A L S F OR M A NUFACT URE OF PE R FUMERY . 63

v id ed with lateral op eni ngs ,

0 and F ro m t he
li d
of t he box K asc ends a pip e ,
e
,
which is co nnected wit h

FIG . 18 .

a s mall v entilati ng app a ra tu s k ept i n motio n by a clock

work a nd w e ights Thi s v entilator wh e n i n motio n
.

s ucks a c u rrent of a ir thro u gh t he a ppara tus The ai r .

ent ers t he cyli nd e r K at 0 a nd a ft er asc endi ng th ro ugh

’
,

t he flow ers and b eco m i ng i m pr eg nate d wi t h t he vapors

of t he volatil e o il enters thro ugh th e op eni ng 0 i nto ’

t he b ox K a nd in passi ng i n t he dir e ctio n i ndic a t ed by

,

arrows ov e r the plates coated with fat yi elds its aro ma

, ,

to th em .

A noth er apparat us for t he s a me p urpose d evis ed by ,

F i v er is sh ow n i n F ig 1 9
, . Th e fat i s co n v erted i nto
.
64 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

th in macaro ni l ik e thr eads and bro ught u po n wi r e ga uz e

-

str etch ed i n fra m es T he flow e rs to be extract ed a re

.

pil ed u po n ti nned m etallic plates a nd t he trays co n

,

tai ni ng t he fa t a nd t he flow ers a re pl ac ed in an a ir tig ht -

FI G . 19 .

cha mb er arranged as sh own i n the ill ustratio n The ai r .

i n t he cha m b er is m ad e to ci rc u l at e to a nd fro by t he
worki ng of a b ellows with wh ich t he apparatu s is pro
v i d ed wh er eby the fat i s ca u s ed to absorb t he odor of
,

t he flow ers v e ry r a pidly and is l ess l iabl e to ra nc id ity .

 MA T ER I A L S F OR MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY . 65

T he bsorptio n proc ess is employ ed for the flowe rs of

a

t he j a s m i ne (ja s mi nu m od er a tis s imum) t he mig n o nnett e

.

( r es ed a o d or a ta
) t h , (
e v iol e t vi ola tr i color
) t h e t ub e ros e ,

o l ia nthes tu ber o s a ) et c
(p ,
.

S tor a g e f v a
o o l ti le o i ls — I n stori ng vol a ti l e oi ls th ey ,

sho uld be carefully prot ected fro m l ight and ai r S o m e .

oils b e co me dark e r o n e xposu re to light whil e oth e rs , ,

for i nstance l em o n oil b eco me colorl ess M ost volatil e

, ,
.

oils as pre vio usly mentio ned absorb oxyge n fro m t he

, ,

air with avidity a nd co m bi ne ch em ica lly with i t .

Th i nly fl uid oils beco me p recep tibly m ore th ickly fl uid

- -

a nd fi na lly e v e n rigid t he prod u ct of oxidatio n b e i ng a

,

resi no u s body S o m e volatil e oils co ntai ni ng ald ehyd es

.

a re co n v e rt ed by t he absorptio n of oxyg e n i nto acids

, , ,

C i nna m i c acid b e i ng for i nst a nce for med i n ci nna mo n

, ,

oil and b enzoic acid in oil of bitter a l m o nd s

,
.

To prev ent evaporatio n as w ell as t he abov e men ,

-

t ioned effects of l ight a nd ai r t he vol a til e oils sh o u ld,

b e pr es erv ed i n no t too large gl a ss bottl es k ept a s ful l

as possibl e a nd clos ed with a good cork ove r w hic h
, ,

it i s b est to t ie a pi ec e of bladd er T he bottl es .

shou l d be stored i n a cool sh ad y place T he prese rva

,
.

tio n of the oils is assist ed by the a d ditio n of to 1 per

c e nt of a nhyd ro u s alcohol
. .
 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

CHA P TER III .

T ES T I NG V O L A T I L E O I L S .

V O L A T I L E oils are m uch

ad ulterated t he ad ulteratio ns
,

co nsisti ng ch i efly i n m ixi ng an ex p ensi ve oil w ith a

ch ea p er one a nd w i t h alcoh ol mor e rar el y with chloro
form a nd fat oils To th ese a d ulter atio ns wh ich h a v e
.
,

b een co mmo n for m a ny y ears has recently b een add ed

,

t he pr e vio u sly m entio ned hydroca rbo n call ed t erp ene

or ca m ph ene wh ich i s s eparat ed in the preparatio n of
,

co ncentrated oils .

F or the r ecog n ition of t he q uality of a volatil e oil ,

s erv e first of all its physical prop erti es esp ecially its ,

color odor a nd taste The sp ecific gra vity vari es too

,
.

m u ch a nd is not a l w ays a s u ffici ent criterio n R eagents .

ca n o n ly b e em ploy ed with a few oils The ch em ical .

d etectio n of a d ulterati o ns is r end ered esp ecially di ffic ult

by the fact that m ost of t he vol atil e oils for m a m i xt ure
,

of terp enes with oth er co mbi natio ns in which the s epa ,

r a te co nstit ue nt parts do not app ear i n fix ed b ut i n ,

changea bl e proportio ns a nd in wh ich t he constituents

,

th em selv es s uffe r alteratio n by stori ng air and light ,

.

Od or a nd ta s te are so characteristic for ev ery vol a til e

o i l as to s uffi ce i n m ost cas es F or t esti ng as to o d or
.
,

bri ng a drop of t he oil to be exam i ned upo n t he dry

pal m of one hand and for so me tim e r ub with t he oth er ,

w h er eby t h e odor i s m ore p erc eptibly bro ught o ut To .

 T ES T I N G VO L A T I L E O I LS . 67

d etermi ne the t a ste vigoro usly shak e one drop of t he oil

,

with 1 5 to 2 0 gra m mes of distill ed water and th en test

with t he to ng ue .

A n ad u ltera tio n with fa t oi l (poppy oil castor oil ) m ay

,

be r ecog n iz ed as follows : P l a ce a drop Of t he s usp ect ed

oi l u po n blotti ng p a p er a nd e xpose i t to the h ea t of t he
w a ter bath If it e v aporates co mpl etely a nd no st ai n is
.

p erceptibl e t he oi l is p ure B ut freq uently a t r ans pa r

,
.

e nt stai n r em ai ns with old oils witho u t th e ir b ei ng a d ul

t erated wh ich is d ue to t he r esi n for med by t he a bs or p

,

tio n of oxyg en a nd rem a i ni ng dissolv ed i n t he oil I n .

th is ca se a tra nspa rent ri ng is generally form ed by t he

co ncentratio n of the r esi n o n the edges of t he st a i n If .

n o t a ngibl e r es ults are obta i ned by this t est po u r a few ,

c u bic centi met ers of t he oil u po n a w a tch crystal a nd -

h eat it v ery slowly upo n a pi ece of sh eet iro n u ntil all -

,

t he odor h a s disapp ea r ed . If the w a tch crystal be -

co m es em pty in a short ti me nothi ng but volatil e oi l

,

was pr es ent ; bu t i f a visco us resid ue r e mai ns th is may ,

co nsist eith e r of fatty o il or r esi n or of both Treat t he

,
.

r esid ue wi th stro ng alcohol ; i f i t d issol v es it m ay be

r esi n or ca stor oil D il ut e t he sol utio n wi th m u ch
.

w at er ; a whit e fl occul ent t u rbidity indic a t es r e si n ; t he

s ep aratio n of a n oily liq u id after sta ndi ng castor oil If
, ,
-
.

t he r esid ue r ema i ns u ndissolv ed it co nsists of a fa tty oil

,
.

g enerally Oil of al mo nd or ol iv e .

The pres ence of ca stor oil ca n be a ccu ra tely d et e r

m i ned by bri ng ing t he resid ue fro m t he watch — crysta l
i nto a t est t u be by m eans of a glass rod a nd c om
- -
,

po undi ng it with a few drops of nitric acid A s tI Ong .

d ev elop m ent of gas ta k es plac e aft e r t he cessat io n of

,

which sol ut io n of carbo na te of soda i s add ed as long as

,
68 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

th er e is any sig n of efferv escence If the ad d ed oil w a s.

castor Oil t he co ntents of t he t est t ub e will S how a

,
-

p ec uli a r odor d ue to oena nthylic ac id form ed by t he ac

tio n of n itri c a cid u po n ca stor oi l .

A noth er m ethod of establish i ng t he pres ence of fat oil

consi sts i n m i x i ng the s usp ected o il with eight ti m es it s
‘

q u a ntity of 9 0 p er cent alcoh ol (sp ecific gravity

.

If the oil i s u nad ult erated a cl ear sol utio n is for med i f
i t co nta i ns fat oil t he latter r emai ns undissol ved T he
,
.

pres ence o f castor oil which of the fat oils i s ch i efly

,

u s ed for ad u lt er a tio n i s howe v er not show n by thi s

, , ,

m ethod it b ei ng also sol u bl e i n alcohol

,
.

A p er manen t stai n u po n t h e pap er may h ow e v er , ,

a lso be for m ed by fr e sh oils obtai ned by e x r essio n fro m

p
t he r esp ectiv e p a rts of t he pl a nt Th us l em o n oil o b
.
,

t a ined by expressio n fro m t he p eel a nd w h ich ha s a far ,

m ore a greea bl e odor th a n th a t prod u ced by distill a tio n ,

always l eav es b ehi nd a slight grease stai n — .

D c n f a — I d p d t
ete ti o o lco ho l o r s
p i r i t o
f w i n e n e e n en

of t he a lcohol add ed to a ssist t he preservatio n of so me

oi ls ad ulteratio n with a lcohol freq uently occ urs es peci
, ,

a lly in e xp en s i v e o i ls Wi th a co ntent of not mor e

.

tha n 3 p er cent of alcoh ol it s uffi ces to a llow o ne to

.
,

two drops of t he s u sp ected oi l to fa ll i nto water I n .

t h e pr es ence of alcohol t he drop b eco mes e ith e r i mme

,

d ia tely s urro u nd ed with a m il ky zo ne or it b eco m es ,

tu rbid or wh itish after b ei ng for so me ti me i n co ntact

with t he water D rag endorff s test i s bas ed upo n the
.
’

fact that oils wh ich ar e hydroca rbo ns s u ffer no cha ng e

, ,

by t he addition o f sodi um (ten drops of oi l and a sm all

ch ip of sodi um) wh il e oils co nt ai n i ng hydrocarbo ns and
,

ox y enat ed o ils ca u se with sodi u m a slight e vol utio n o f

g
7O MANUFACT URE OF PERFUME R Y .

t es t t u be 5 to 1 0 drops of t he oil to b e ex am i ned ad d a

-
,

pi ec e of tanni n t he siz e of a p ea shak e so that t he ,

ta nni n i s m oiste ned by t he oil a nd l et the W hol e s ta nd

,

a t a t em p er a t u r e of 5 9 to 6 8 F I n m ost vol a til e

° °
.

oils ta nni n is i nsol u bl e a nd i f t he oil is p u re floats for

, , ,

d ays o n t he s u rfac e wi tho u t ch a nge If how ev er t he .

, ,

oi l co ntai ns a lcoh ol t he ta nn i n a bsorbs t he l a tt er a ccord

, ,
'

i ng to the q ua ntity pres ent in 3 to 4 8 ho u rs a nd for m s

, ,

w ith i t a m ore or l ess tra nsp a rent visco u s to ugh or , , ,

s meary m ass res em bl i ng a soft r esi n wh ich s ettl es o n ,

t he botto m a nd a dh e re s so fir m ly to it as w ell a s to
, ,

t he S id es of t he t u b e that i t ca n not b e m ov ed by sh a k
,

i ng . The mass may b e e x a m i ned as to i t s co nsi stency

with a k nitti ng needl e Traces of moist ure i n t he oil
.

a re not d etri m en tal to t h e t est t he t a n n i n m ass s epara t

,

i ng i n t he for m of a hyal i ne m a ss o nly i n fe w oils a nd ,

i f thi s m ass is tested wi th t he k n itti ng n eedl e it will be

fo u nd not to ugh or s meary b ut h a rd a nd m ay so m e
, ,

t i m es be divid e d i nto s ma ll gr a i ns With oil of bi tter .

a l m o nds cassia oil a nd so m e oils of clov e as w ell as

, , ,

volatil e oil co ntai ni ng an a cid t he ta n n i n t est is n ot,

av a ilabl e T he first t w o oils e v en dissol v e t a nni n a nd

.
,

l a rg e q ua ntiti es of it i f th ey co ntai n alcohol

,
.

T he a bov e— m en tio ned oils m ay how e v e r be r end er ed , ,

fi t for t he t a n ni n t est by m ixi ng th em with do u bl e th e i r

vol um e of b enzi ne or p etrol eu m eth e r and a llowi ng t he -
,

m i xtu re to stand for two or thre e days I f how e ve r .

, ,

t he oils co ntai n m u ch alcohol t h e ta nn i n i s d issol v ed

,
.

The use of powd e red ta n ni n i s not ad visabl e b eca us e i t ,

g enerally d eposits i n a thi n l ay er o n the botto m a nd i ts ,

alte ratio n i s not so p erc eptibl e If for practical reaso ns

.
, ,

a co ntent of er c en t a nhydro u s alcohol m ight b e

p .
 T EST I NG V O L AT I L E O I L S . 71

a cce pted as p er m issibl e i n a volatil e oil the ta nnin t est ,

wo uld hav e to be so m odifi ed as to m ix 1 0 d rops of

t he oi l wi th a pi ec e of ta nn i n t he siz e of two p eas ,

a nd a llow t he whol e to sta nd for o ne ho u r I n thi s .

ti me t he abov e me ntio ned co ntent of alcohol wo uld yi eld

-

n o r es u lt .

D etecti on of chlor ofor m — A n ad ulteratio n with chlo

r o fo rm i f m od erat e ca nnot a l w ays b e d et e ct ed by t he
, ,

odor a nd taste I n m ost cas es chlorofor m will cons id

.
,

e rabl i ncr eas e t he sp ecific gravi ty of t he oil B ri ng

y .

i nto a test t ube 1 5 drops of the s usp ected oil 4 5 to 90

-
,

drops of a lcohol a nd 3 0 to 4 0 drops of d il ute s ulph u ri c

,

acid A fter thoro ugh shaki ng add 2 or 3 shavi ngs of

.
,

zi nc sh eet a nd h ea t u ntil a vigoro us e vol uti o n of hydro

en t a k es pl a c e A ft er a gai n shak i ng s et t he wh ol e
g .
,

a sid e a nd h eat agai n wh en t he e vol u tio n of gas b e co m e s

,

w eak er This h eati ng and gentl e shaki ng of the fl u id i s

.

s e ve ral ti mes r ep eat ed A fter 2 0 to 2 5 m i n utes co m

.
,

po u nd the fl u id with a n eq ua l vol u me of cold disti ll ed

w ater sh a k e vigoro u sly a nd filte r th ro ugh a pap er fil te r
,
.
-

m oist ened w ith w a te r S tro ngly a cid ulate the filtrat e

.

with nitric acid a nd co mpo u nd with n i trate of silv e r

sol ution If chloroform is pres ent t urbidity or a p re
.
,

c i ita t e of chlorid e of sil v e r app ea rs

p .

D etecti on of benzi ne — A n ad u lt e ratio n with b enz i ne

ca n be r ea dily d et ect ed o nly i n oils S p eci fically h ea vi e r

tha n w a ter T he separatio n of b enzi ne i s effected by

.

distill a tio n fro m a s mall glass flask i n t he w at er bath .

T he disti ll a t e tog eth e r wit h a n eq ual vol um e of n itri c

acid of sp eci fic gravity i s gently h eated in a t est
t u be A too v igoro u s rea ctio n i s m odifi ed by cooli ng in
.

cold water a nd a too sl uggish actio n q u ick ened by gentl e

,
72 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

h eati ng (dippi ng i n warm water) If the m ixt ure has a .

vell o w color dil ut e it with w a t er sh a k e with eth er

, , ,

m ix t he d eca nt ed eth erea l sol utio n w ith a lcoh ol a nd hy

d r o chl o ric acid a d d so m e zi nc a nd pl a ce t he whol e in a
,

l uk ew a rm pl a c e to co nv ert t he n itrob enzol for m ed i nto

a nili n e A fter e vol u tio n of hydrog en i s do ne neu trali z e
.
,

wi th pota sh l ye sh a k e tak e off the l ay er of eth er l et t he

, , ,

l atter evaporate and add to th e r esid ue a fe w drops of

ca lci um chlorid e sol utio n If b enzi ne i s pr es ent a
.
,

bl ue viol et color r eactio n tak es place

-
.

A d ult er atio ns with a lcohol chlorofor m a nd b e nzi ne

, ,

a r e q ua ntitati v ely d eter m i ned by bri ngi ng a w e igh ed

u a ntity of t he oil i nto a gl a ss flask so th a t i t occ u pi es

q
abo ut fo u r fifths of t he vol ume of t he fl a sk
-
P l a ce .

u po n t he fl ask a cork thro u gh which has b een pass ed a

glass t ub e b ent at a right a ngl e and provid ed with a

-

cyli ndrica l glass v essel s ervi ng as a r ece iv er and h ea ti ng

i n t he wat er bath If th e distanc e fro m the l e v el of t he
.

o il t o t he angl e of t he gl a ss t u b e i n wh ich i t i ncli nes

d ow nwards a mo u nts for i nstanc e to

, ,
i nch es a nd
, ,

t he neck of t he fl a sk u p to i ts a ngl e is i nch es high

o u tsid e of t he d irect effect of the h eat of t he water bath ,

o nly t he abov e mentio ned ad ult era nts disti ll ov er whil e

-
,

t he vapor of t he v ol a til e oi l co nd en s es at a h eight of 5

i nch es a nd flows back i nto t he fl a sk T he d istillat e is
w eigh ed a nd ex a mi ned a s to it s d eri vatio n F irst a d d .

o ne c ubi c c enti met e r of it to two or thr ee c u bi c c e nti

m eters o f po t a ssi um acetat e sol u tio n of sp ecific gravi ty

a nd shak e m od erat ely If a cl ea r m ixtu r e res ults
.
,

a l co hol alo ne i s pr esent If h ow e v e r t he m ixtu re is

.
, ,

not cl ear a nd t he distill ed fl u id si n ks dow n a nd co l l e cts

,

o n the botto m of t he t est t ub e chlorofor m is v ery li k ely

-
,
 T EST I N G VO L A TI L E O I L S . 73

present and i f it rema i ns floati ng upo n t he acetate sol u

,

tio n b enzi ne N ext bri ng two to three centi met ers of

,
.

t he disti llat e i nto a t est tu b e a nd add a pi ec e of sodi u m

-

meta l the si z e of a pea

,
If v iol ent fo a m i ng i e an
.
,
. .
,

e vol u tio n of gas tak es plac e alcohol is certai nl y

, ,

pres ent and possibly also chlorofor m a nd b enzi ne

,

tow a rd s w h ich sodi um is i ndi ffer ent How e v er i n t he .

,

pr esence of b enzi ne t he sodi u m sol utio n wo uld be

,

colorl ess a nd i n t he presence of chloro form y ellowi sh

, ,

a nd t urbid I n cas e t he sodi u m prod uc es no r ea ctio n

.

a nd alcohol is th er efor e not pr es ent a dd a n e q u al v o l

, , ,

u m e two to thr ee c ubic c en ti met ers of a nhydro u s a lco

( )
hol a nd a fte r m od erately S haki ng allow t he sol uti o n of
,

t he sodi um a nd t he e vol utio n of g a s to proc eed w h er e by ,

b enzi ne prod uces a nearly colorl ess t u rbid fl uid and , ,

chl orofor m a y ellowish milky o ne N ow dil ute t he ,

.

fl uid with an eq ual or do u bl e vol um e of w a ter sh a k e ,

a nd allow th e m ixt ur e t Ost a nd q u i etly I n t he pres e nc e .

of b enzi ne a colorl ess t u rbid l ay er coll ects o n t he bot

,

t o m o f t he fl ui d whil e th at coll e cti ng i n t he pr e s enc e

,

of ch l orofor m i s y ellowish I n t he l a tt er cas e i e in the

.
,
. .
,

pres ence of chlorofor m the aq ueou s filtrate yi elds with

,

l ea d a cetate sol utio n a wh ite pr ecipitat e (l ea d chlorid e

and l ea d hydroxid e
) T h e ad ult era nt havi ng th u s b een
.

r ecog ni z ed furth er partic ulars a re l ea rned fro m t he

,

sp eci fic grav ity of t he oil as w ell a s of t he d istillat e .

A d ulteratio ns with terp enes or terp ene li ke flu i d s s u ch -

,

as a re gai n ed in t he prep a r a tio n of co ncentrat e d or

patent oils a r e di fficult to r ecog n iz e Th ey may b e

, .

d etect ed by t he sp ecific grav ity t he terp enes b ei ng as , ,

a r ul e sp ecifically ligh te r th eir sp ecific gravity v a ryi ng

, ,

b et w een a nd
74 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

T he d etectio n of a d u lter a ti ons with vola ti le oi ls of a

lower q u a li ty is v ery di ffic ult i f no t l ed to i t by t he Od or
,

a nd t a st e M a ny methods for esta blishi ng s u ch a d u l

.

t era t ions hav e b een propos ed of wh ich t he followi ng a re,

t he m ost i m porta nt
I Tes t with i od ine — This test is b ased upo n t he fact
.

that so m e oils viol en tly d eto nate with iodi ne wh il e ,

oth ers d e v elop h ea t a nd vapors a nd oth ers agai n r ema i n ,

i ndi ffe rent F o r this test po u r u po n abo u t

. gra mme
of dry iodi ne in a w a tch crysta l 4 to 6 drops of t he oil
-

to b e exa m i ned .

1 A vigoro u s r ea ctio n (d eto natio n) with co ns id erabl e

.

i ncr ea s e in t he t em pera t ur e and em issio n of v a pors t a k e s

place with t he followi ng oils oi ls of b erga m ot l em o n , ,

lav end er nu tm eg ora ng e p eel spik e t urp enti ne worm

, , , , ,

wood .

2 S uch a r ea ctio n as m en tio ned und er 1 do es not

.
,

tak e pl ace with oils of bitt er al m o nds C opa i ba calam us , , ,

clov e p epp er mi nt ros e

, ,
.

3 M od erat e h eati ng a nd S l ight v a pors are d e v eloped

.

w ith Oi ls of a nis e s eed fennel ca mo m il e c urly m i nt

-
, , , ,

ma rj ora m ros em ary s assafras thy m e

, , ,
.

Wh en a n oil of t he s eco n d s eri es b eco m es h eated with

iod ine and e vol v es v apors it may first of all be ad ul ,

t e rat ed w ith ch ea p er oils Th is may also be the cas e

.

wh en a n oil of t he third s eri es r eacts vi ol ently with

i odi ne and e volv e s vapors with stro ng h ea ti ng F or .

merly t he i odi ne test w a s highly val ued ; it has how ,

e v er b ee n show n to b e u nr eliabl e si n c e i t is fr eq uently

,

d ep end ent o n the age of t he oil .

I n pl a ce of iodi ne R udolph Eck r eco mm ends a v ery

,

dil ute alcohoh c I od ine sol utio n wh ich is not discolored ,

 T ES T I N G V O L A T I L E O I L S . 75

by o ils of t urp enti ne wh il e oth er oils di scol or it D is ,

.

sol v e a drop of t he oil to be ex a mi ned i n 3 c ubic cen

t imet er s of 9 0 to 1 0 0 p er c ent a lcohol a nd a d d a drop .
,

of t he i odi ne sol utio n T he latter is not discolored i n .

t he pre s enc e of a n oil of t u rp en ti ne Th ere a re also .

,

how ev er s ev eral vol atil e oils wh ich do not d iscolor the

, ,

iodi ne sol utio n M ierz ins ki mentio ns t he follow i ng

.

A ll cold e xpress ed oils fro m t he A u r a nti a ceoe furth er

-
,

oi ls of coria nd er caraw ay ga l ang a r u e s a ssa fra s rose

, , , , , ,

rosema ry anis e seed fennel cal a mu s ne roli a ng elica

,
-
, , , , ,

wor m wood Hence th is reactio n ca nnot be rel ied u po n

.
,
.

I I H opp e s ni tr op r uss i d e of cop p er tes t

’ — Thi s test
"

som eti m es gi v es good res ults but o nly wi t h hyd roca r ,

bo ns absol utely free fro m oxyg en a nd oxyg enated oils .

It is th erefor e not s u it a bl e for oils d eri v ed fro m t he

, ,

A ur a nti ac eoe The process is a s follows : A dd to a

.

s mall q ua nt ity of t he oil to be exa m i ned i n a p er

fectl y dry t est t ub e 2 to 5 m illigra mmes of p u re
-
,

n itropr ussid e of C opp e r previo usly thoro ughly dri ed

a nd fi nely p ulv e riz ed sh ak e v igoro usly a nd grad ually,

h ea t to boili ng A ft er boili ng for a few s eco nds

.

allow to cool If t he oi l i s free fro m oil of tu rpenti ne

.
,

or anoth er oil co ntai n i ng no oxygen t he precipitate ,

form ed i s brow n black or gray a nd accord ing to ,

’

, ,

the q ua ntity of t he r eagen t a dd ed and t he origi n al

color of the oil t he s up er nata nt oi l will be d i ffer ently
,

colored an d a ppe ar m ore or l ess dark If h owe v er the .

, ,

oi l i s ad u lterated with oil of t urp enti ne t he precipita te ,

for med shows a ha ndsom e gr een or bl ue gr een color -

,

whil e the s up er nata nt oil r eta i ns its origi nal color or at

t he ut most acq u ir es a v ery S l ightly dark er o ne The .

lo nger t he oil is allow ed to stand after settli ng t he more ,

 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

disti nct a nd b ea utiful t he color of t he oil a nd of the p re

c i ita t e a pp ea rs F o r t he est a bl ish m ent a nd c er t a i n
p .

r ecog nitio n of v ery s mall q ua ntiti es of oil of t urp enti ne

i n oxyg ena t ed oils i t is b est to first a d d v ery l ittl e of
t he n itropr ussid e of Copp e r to t he oi l to be t este d a nd ,

a larg e r q ua ntity o nly aft e r b e i ng co n vi nc ed e ith e r of

t he p u rity or a d ulte ra t io n of t he oi l. Th is is do ne to be
abl e o n t he o ne h a nd b etter to j udg e th e r ea ctio n i f t he
, , ,

o i l i s p u r e a nd
,
o n t he oth e r
, ,
i f it is ad ultera ted to ,

e stablish s u ch ad ult er a tio n with c er tai nty a nd to a

p
prox i ma tely esti m ate t he q u a ntity of oil of t urp e nti ne
pr esent The l ess n itropr u ss id e of cop per is u s ed the
.
,

b etter s mall q ua nti ti es of oil of t u rp enti ne can be

d etect ed .

N ea rly all volatil e oils fr ee fro m oxygen S ho w t he

sa me b ehav ior towards n itropr ussid e of copp e r ; th ey
d eco m pos e it wh ich i s n ot t he cas e with oxyg enated Oils
, .

The b ehavi or of t he latte r is show n in t he followi ng

tabl e :
78 MANUFACT URE OF PERF U MERY .

m ix ed with oil of t u rp enti ne t he red colora tio n b v ,

n itropr u ssi d e of copp e r do es n ot a pp ear .

I I I H a g er s a lcohol a nd s ulp hur i c a cid tes t — B ri ng

.
’

i nto a t est t u b e of a bo u t
-
i nch d i a met er fi ve to s iX ,

drops of t he oil to be tested a nd tw enty five to th irty drops -

of p ure co ncentrated s ulph u ric acid a nd m ix t he two fl uids ,

by shaki ng wh ereby e ith e r no h ea ti ng ta k es pl a ce or a

,

scarcely p e rcepti bl e o ne or the h ea ti ng is stro ng or v ery

,

vigoro u s a nd in so me cas es i ncr ea s ed to t he e vol utio n of

vapors The m i xt ure i s e ith er cl ear or t urbid A fter
. .

co m pl ete cooli ng a dd to the m ixt ure e ight to t en c ubic

,

c ent i m eters of 9 0 per cent alcohol and after closi ng t he .

,

t u b e with the fi nger shak e vigoro usly The mi x t ure

,
.

no w sho w s a d iffe r en t color i s cl ea r or t u rbi d a nd t he , ,

d e posit form ed afte r sta nd ing for one day is also di ffer
e ntly colored a nd e ith e r sol u bl e or i nsol u bl e i n boili ng

alcohol .

T he m ixt u r e of oil s ulph u ri c acid a nd alcohol i s p er

,

fect ly cl ear a nd tra nsp a r e nt with oils of bitter al mo nds ,

fe nnel clov e a nd ros e with a nis e seed oi l a nd s tar a ni se

,
-

S eed oi l o nly t he alcoholic l ay er ov e r t he m i xt u r e of s u l

h u ri c acid a nd oil i s cl ea r T h m i xt u r e of oil acid a nd

p e .
,

alcoh ol is slightly t u rbi d or nea rly cl ear with oils of

v al eria n p epp er m i nt a nd fi eld thy m e With m ost of t he
,
.

oth er vol atil e oils occ u rri ng i n co mm erce t he m i xt u re ,

i s m ore or l ess m ilky t u rbid H eati ng of t he oil a nd acid .

m i xt ur es do es n o t tak e place wit h pyrog eno u s oils (p e

t rol e um b enzi ne) or o nly to a v ery slight d egr ee as w ith
, ,

oils of p epp er m i nt and m u stard .

IV H ag er s g ua i a cum r ea cti on s erv es for the d etec

.
’ *

Hag e r , Ch emi s ch e R e a ct i o n e n z u r N a ch w e i s e d e s Ter p ent i noel s

i n d en aet h e r i s ch e n C el e n , et c . B er l i n , 1 88 5 .
 T ES T I N G V O L A T I L E O I LS . 79

oft u rp enti ne in a vol atil e oil By po uri ng u pon

t i o n o f o il .

as m uch g uaiac u m fr eshly powd ered a s will l ie u pon t he

, ,

poi nt of a s mall k ni fe, in a t est tub e 1 c u bic c enti -

m et er (2 5 drops) of spik e oil a nd h eati ng nearly to boil ,

i ng o v e r a p etrol eum l a m p t h e oi l a ft er b ei ng r em ov ed
,

fro m t he fla me and allowi ng the undissolv ed r esi n t o

s ettl e sh ows a yellow color By now po uri ng u po n a n
,
.

eq ual q u a ntity of g u ai ac u m in a noth er t est t ub e 2 5 drops -

of S pik e oi l a nd 5 drops of r ectifi ed oil of t u rpenti ne ,

a nd h eati n g n early to boili ng t he oi l a ft e r b ei ng r e ,

m ov ed fro m t he fl a me shows a d a r k vi olet color

V a rio u s o th er oils b ehav e in the s ame m a nner as S pi k e
Oil and
,
h ence a co nt ent of oi l of t u rp enti ne ca n be
r ead ily d etect ed in th em Oth er oils do not exh i bit thi s
.

b eh avi or ; bu t t hi s ca n be r em edi ed by addi ng in t est ,

i ng for oi l of t urp enti ne a few drops of a n oi l of t he ,

first cl ass .

T he g uaiac u m r eactio n is a n o zo ne r ea cti o n a nd w ith

r efer enc e to thi s the volatil e oils m ay be d ivid ed i nto
,

t hr ee class es

a Oils i nclini ng to the for ma tion of ozone — F orem ost

.

of th ese i s oi l of tu rp e nti ne esp eci ally wh en r ecti fi ed , .

Oils of t a nsy r u e mi nt j unip er z edo a ry etc S how co n

, , , , ,
.
,

s id e rabl y l ess i n cli nati o n .

b . Oi ls w hi ch, es
p ec ia ll
y w hen hea ted di r ectl
, y i nci te the

oi l f
o turp enti ne to for m ozone, a nd to color g u a i a cu m
vi olet or blue — S uch
oil s a re ma ny ki nds of oi l of cit
r o nel l a oils of spi k e cal amu s cedar etc
, , , ,
.

0 Oils w i th a co ntent of oi l of tmp entine w hi ch r e

.
,

ma i n i nd iferent towa r d s g ua i a cum — To s uch oils i f to ,

b e t est ed for oil of t u rp enti ne with th e assista nce of the ,

80 MANUFA C T URE OF PERFUMERY

g ua iac um rea ctio n a few drops of a n oil of t he seco nd

,

cl a ss h a v e to be add ed .

V Hubl s i odi ne method — M r C B arenthi n has

’
'

. . .

appli ed H ii bl s iodi ne method for fi x ed oils to the

’

e xa m i nati o n of vol a til e Oi ls He u s es the follow ing .

sol utio ns
1 F i fty gra m mes i odi ne a nd 6 0 gra m mes of m ercu ric
.

chlorid e in a l ite r of alcohol fr eed fro m fus el oil and ,

l et sta nd fb r 1 2 ho u rs .

2 T w enty fo u r gra mmes of hypos u lph ite of sodi u m

.
-

i n a lit er of water .

3 A t en p er c ent sol utio n of iodid e of potassi um

. . .

D issolv e to gra m me of t he volatil e oil in 1 0

c ubic centi meters of chlorofor m a nd add first 1 5 cu bic ,

centi m eters of t he iodi ne m erc uric chlorid e sol utio n l et

-

sta nd th ree or fo u r ho u rs a nd in cas e t he m ixt ure gets

, ,

dis color ed ad d a few m ore ce nti m ete rs of sol utio n N o w

,
.

add 1 0 to 1 5 c ubic c enti m eters i odid e of potassi u m

sol u tio n dil ute with 1 5 0 c u bic c enti m et ers of wat er a nd
, ,

titrate with hypos u lphite till the m ixt u re r e mai ns cl ear

for a bo ut a m i nute T he iodid e of potassi u m sol utio n
.

must be add ed b efore t he water and the relati v e propor ,

tio ns b et w een th is sol uti o n a nd t he iodi ne m erc uric -

chlorid e sol utio n m u st be 1 5 to 2 0 c ubic centi meters .

T he q u antity of iodi ne sol utio n co ns umed is calc ulat ed

to i odi ne for 1 0 0 parts a nd t he fig ure th us obtai ned is
“ ”
d esig nated as t he iodi ne num b er .

B a renthi n has i n this ma nner d et e r m i ned t h e iodi ne

n u mb er of s e veral volatil e oils ; oth er e xp eri m ent ers ,

how e v er for i nsta nce K remel a nd D avi es h av e fo und

,
*
,

P h a rm Ce nt r al h
. . 1 88 8 , S . 4 82 u . 5 5 5 ; 1 8 89 , S 1 3 3
. .
 T ES T I NG V O L A T I L E O I LS . 81

d iffer ent n umb ers for t he sa me oils so that th is meth od ,

r eq u i res furth er thoro ugh e xa m i nat io n b e fore it can b e

class ed as av a ilabl e .

VI A K r emel has e nd eavor ed to u tiliz e ti tr a ti on

. .

o r s a oni ca ti on w i th a lcoholi c ota s h l e for t he ex a m i

p fi p y
natio n o f vo l atil e oils I n h is exp e ri m ents he w a s g u id ed
.

by t he followi ng poi nts A seri es of volati l e oils co nta i ns

p a rtially free orga nic acids l i k e oils of bitte r al m o nds
,

a nd ci nna mo n a nd partially ald ehy d e s or oth er co m bi na

,

tio ns N o w i t s eem s not i m possi bl e that u p to a c ertai n

.
,

li mit the q u a nti ti es of th es e co mbi natio ns in t he s ep a rate

,

vol a til e oils re ma i n co nsta nt th us pres enti ng t he op p o r

,

t u nity of t esti ng t he r esp ecti v e oils as to th ei r q u a lity

a nd p u ri ty by s a o ni fica t io n I n so m e cas es th es e c o m
p .

b ina t ions a re t he ch i e f b earers of t he sp eci fic odor a nd ,

”
h ence the d eter mi natio n of t he s ap o nifica tion number
b eco m es of do u bl e val ue It i s of co urs e s el f e vi d ent
.
, ,
-

that n ot e v e ry volatil e oil ca n b e s ap on ified a nd K rem el ,

a d m its th a t e v e n wh e r e s a o n ificat io n t ak e s pl a ce i t is
, p ,

not i n e v e ry c a s e a s u re t est .

T he e x ec u tio n of t he m ethod i s as follows : D issol v e

1 gra mme of t he oil to be exa m i ned i n 2 to 3 c u bic cen
t imeter s of 9 0 p er c ent a lcohol fr eed fro m acid c o m
.
,

po u nd the sol utio n w ith a fe w drops of ph enol ph t h a l ei n -

sol uti o n a nd titrate t he free a cid wi th nor m al alcoh ol ic

,

potash lye The milligra mmes of cau stic potash us ed

.

“ ”
are d esig nat e d t he a ci d number A ft er h avi ng th u s
d et er m i ned t he co nten t of acid a dd to t he sa m e sol u ,

tio n 1 0 c ubic centi m eters of the sa m e potash lye h eat ,

for 4 ho u r u po n t he wate r bath a nd th en titrate b a ck the ,

ex c ess of potash l e w ith

y A n or m al hydrochloric acid .

I n this m a nner t he s a oni ca ti on nu mber

p fi
”
i s obtai n ed .

6
82 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

(I n so me cases wh en t he fi nal r eactio n is not p l ai nly p er

ce t i b l e i t i s advisabl e to corr espo ndi ngly d il ut e w it h
p , .

water aft er h ea ti ng t he alcohol ic fl u i d ) The s ap o nifi .

“
catio n n u mb e r l ess the acid n u mb er gi v es the ether
, ,

or es ter nu mber .

K rem el has i n th i s m a nner e xa m i ned a larg e num b er

of vol a til e oils a nd parti ally obtai ned s u rpri si ng r es u lts .

R os e oil gi v es a s a p onifiea t io n n u m b er of 1 2 a nd ,

g era ni u m oils one of 4 0 to 5 0 Whil e lav end er oils

.

gi v e v ery h igh sap onificat ion n um b ers oil of l em o ns do es

,

n ot . A rt ificial oi l of bitt e r al m o nds sh ows h igh er

s a o nificat ion nu m b e rs th a n t h e na t u ral o il B f rth r
p y u e .

co mpou nd i ng t he s ap onified porti o ns of t he latter with

acid a crystalli ne precipitate of b enzoi n is for med t he
, ,

q u a ntity of wh ich a m o unts to fro m 40 to 5 0 p er cent of .

t he oi l us ed S uch a precipitate b ut o nly i n v ery s mall

.
,

q u a ntiti es is also for m ed in p ea ch k ernel oil b ut not i n

, ,

o t h er si milar oils nor i n artificial o il of bi t ter al m o nds .

VII F R W ill i am s h as r ecently end eavored to

. . .

u tiliz e for t esti ng vol a til e oi ls M a u mené s t est wh ich is

’
,

based u po n t he i ncrease in tem pera t ure prod uced in oils

by co nc entrated s u lph u ric acid a nd wh ich giv es val uabl e
,

poi nts for t he e xa m i nati on of so me fat oils Of co urse .

,

t he l a rge q ua ntiti es of oil oth erwis e prescri b ed ca nnot b e

u s ed . Whil e for t he ex am i nati on of fat oils 5 0 gra mmes
of oil a re m i x ed w ith 1 0 c u bic centi meters of co neen
t ra ted s ulph u ric acid in a b ea k er glass wrapp ed aro und
w ith cotto n Willia m s co u ld us e o nly s ix c u bi c c enti
,

m eters o f vol a til e oil Th ey w ere bro ught i nto a v ery

.

s ma ll b eak er glass env elop ed i n cotto n A fte r r eadi ng .

off t he te m p erat ur e t w elv e c u bic centi m et ers of co ncen

,

t ra t ed s ulph uri c acid w er e add ed a nd the whol e stirr ed

 T ES T I N G V OL A TI L E O I LS . 83

w ith the th er mo m eter u ntil the temp eratu r e no lo ng e r

rose . N u m b ers w ere i n this m a nner obt a i ned which
m ight i n so me cas es for i nsta nc e cassi a oil fu r ni s h
, , ,

g uidi ng poi nts for j udgi ng t he p u rity of the o il .

P l a ncho n pre pos es t he followi ng proc ed ure i n ord er

to r ecog niz e a vol a til e oil

A . The o il i s sp ecifica lly l ig hter tha n w a ter .

1 . T he s ubs ta nce is solid a nd o nly m elts at 3 47

°
F
C amp hor .

2 . oil at a t em p erat ur e of ov er 3 2 F co ntai ns a

The
°
.

crystalli ne stea roptene .

a T he oi l i s la evorot a tory t he st earopt ene me lts at

.
,

7 7 F a nd o n a dd i ng s ulph u ric acid a cl ea r

°
.
, , ,

sol utio n rema i ns b ehi nd R os e oi l .

b The oi l poss ess es n o rotatory pow e r t he s t ea ro p

.
,

t ene m elts at 5 0 F a nd on a d di ng s ulph u ric °

.
, ,

acid two lay ers a re for med o nly o ne of wh i c h

, ,

is liq uid : A nis e s eed o il -

.

0 The o il is d extrorotatory t he st earoptene m elts a t

.
,

4 1 F a nd o n addi ng s u lph u ric acid a nea rly

°
.
, , ,

colorl ess fl u id rem ai ns beh i nd Fennel oil .

3 The oil is p e rfectly fl uid a nd cl ear at abo v e 3 2 F

°
. .

I The oil explod es with iod i ne em itti ng vi ol et vapors

.
,
.

a The oil th ick ens i n t he ai r a nd r eadily for m s r esi n

. .

It r equ ires for its sol utio n s ev eral vol um es of al

cohol Oil of conifers .

b The oil on e xpos u re to the air do es not th ick en

.
, ,

and bu t slowly for m s r esi n .

It is d extrorotatory .

The l iq u id oil d issolv es santali n : Oi l of th e

a ur a nti a ceoe .
84 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

The thi ck oil do es n ot dissolv e santali n

M a ce oil .

3 . The
oi l i s la evorotatory .

The oil shows a n a cid r ea ctio n and dissol v es

i n eq u al parts of alcoh ol : L a vend er oi l .

The oi l shows a ne utral r eactio n a nd dissolv es

in 1 2 to 1 5 parts of alcohol M a rj or a m oi l .

II The oil g i v es n o explosi o n with iodi ne b ut shows

.
,

a n i ncreas e i n t em p erat u r e with or witho u t em issio n of

r e d vapors .

a. T he oi l sh ows a n a cid r eactio n .

The bl ue or green oil shows the acid r eactio n

o nly i ndisti nctly : M ilfoi l oi l .

5 The colorl ess or brow n oil gi v es a t u rbid fl u id

.

with s ulph uric acid It is laevorotatory : .

S p a ni s h ma rj or a m oi l .

T he oi l is r end ered but slightly t u rbid by

s ulph u ri c aci d it acq u i r es a red v iol et -

color by n itric acid has no efl ect u po n t he,

pla ne of pol a ri z atio n and has a p ec uli a r ,

odor : Oi l of va leri a n .

b The oil is neutral

. .

It dissolv es with di ffi culty in alcohol .

T he oi l i s m iscibl e i n e v ery proportio n with

alcoh ol .

1 It is d extrorota to ry
. .

The oi l i s colorl ess or y ellowish it th ick ,

ens o n expos u r e to t he ai r and d issolv e s ,

a n d r ed u c es fu ch si ne : Ca r a wa y oi l .

The oil i s th ick y ellow brow n or r ed ,

-

y ellow and has a p ec uliar odor : Oa la

,

mus oil .
86 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

oil sho w s a neu tral r eact io n and has

The
a ca mph or —lik e odor : Thyme oil .

IV The oil do es not dissolv e iodi ne do es not h ea t

.
,

w ith s ulph u ric acid a nd do es not r eact upo n n itric acid

,
.

T he odor i s em pyr eu m a tic : P etr oleum .

B . The oi l i s sp ecifica lly hea vi er tha n wa ter .

1 . Th e oil shows an ac id r eactio n .

It is sol ubl e in 30 par ts of wate r boils at ,

356
°

F a nd s mells of bitt er al m o nds : Oi l of

.
,
bi tter
al mond s .

Th e oi l has agreeabl e sw eet odor a nd boils at

‘

an ,

fro m 3 9 2 to F
°
Wi nterg r een oil . .

The oil shows a neu tra l r eact i o n .

a T he oi l i s l a e vorotatory
. .

It b eco mes bl ue by the additio n of s ulph u ric

acid Oil of clo ves .

b The oi l i s optically inacti v e

. .

The t hick oi l gi v es with s ulph uri c ac id a t u r

bid black brow n fl uid ; t he odor i s agree
,
-

a bl e : Cinna mon oi l .

0 The oil is d e xtrorotatory

. .

The th i ck oil has a n agr eeabl e odo r : S a ss a

fras o il .
 V O L A T I L E O I LS USED IN PERFUMERY . 87

C HA P T ER IV .

T HE V O L A T I L E O I L S USED IN PE R FUME R Y .

TH E volatil e oils a s previo u sly mentio ned m ay b e d i

, ,

v id ed i nto t hr ee gro u ps vi z t he p u re hyd rocarbo ns

, ,

Oxyg e nat ed O ils a nd s ul ph u r ett ed oi ls

,
C h em ically thi s .
,

di visio n i s h o w e v er of l ittl e val ue si nce a mo ng bod i es

, , , ,

wh ich sho uld be class ed accordi ng to i t i n o ne of t he

g ro ups co mbi natio ns are fo und w h ich v a ry v e ry m uch
,

i n a ch e m ica l r esp ect a nd b elo ng p a rtially in t he gro u ps

,

of alcoh ols i ndi ffere nt bodi es acids e tc

, , ,
.

It is th ere fore pre ferred not to a tte mpt a cl a ss ifiea

, ,

tio n of t he volatil e oils accordi ng to th ei r ch emical co m

positio n but si m ply to e n u merate th em i n alphab etica l
,

ord er .

A ca ci a o il of co mmo nly cal l ed o i l of ca s s ie

, ,
T he .

flow e rs or b uds of the a ca cia F a r nes ia na yi eld a so me

w hat thickly fl u id gree nish y ello w oi l of a v ery i nt ens e
-
,
-

b ut d elightful odor T he oil m ay be obta i ned e ith er by

.

extra ctio n or absorpti o n T he acacia i s c ult i vated i n

.

S p ecial pla ntati o ns alo ng t he R ivi er a d i Genova Th ese .

pla ntatio ns bei ng co ntroll ed by a few p erfum ers t he oi l ,

i s not allo w ed to r each t he m ark et and does not form a n ,

arti cl e of co m merce The green colored extr a it d a ca cia

.
-
’

i s a so l utio n of t he oil i n alcohol .

A lmo nd oi l (bi tter ) (o leum a myg d a la e a ma r ae) is obtai ned

by s ub m itti ng bitter al mond cak e (l eft after t he e xpres
88 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

sio n of t he fix ed oi l fro m bitter al m o nds) to distill a tio n

with water . The vol a til e oil do es no t exist r eady
for med i n th e bitter al m o nd nor i n t he al mo nd cak e , ,

b ut r es u lts fro m the d eco m positio n of a gl ucosid e call ed

”
a myg d al i n co ntai ned i n t he ca k e und er t he i nfl uence
, ,

of emulsi n a nd w a ter t he em ulsi n acti ng as a ferm e nt

, ,

i nto b e nzyl ic ald ehyd e gl ucose a nd pr ussi c a cid The

,
.

al m o nd tr ee grows wild b u t i s also c ultiv a ted in S o u th

,

ern E urop e A fric a B a rb a ry P a l esti ne a nd S yria

, , ,
Th e .

bitter al m o nds bro ught fro m Barbary a re co nsid er ed th e

b est Besid es i n al mo nds a myg d ali n occu rs i n v a rio us
.
, ,

oth er pl a nts ; for i nsta nce in the l ea v es of t he ch erry

,

la urel the l ea v es and k er nel s of t he p ea ch the k er nels

, ,

of t he bl a ck ch erry a nd oth er v ari eti es of p r unus and

a m g d a lu s th ey all yi e ldi ng a ft e r ma c eratio n wi t h
y , ,

w at e r,
a distillat e co ntai n i ng pr u ssic acid a nd oil of
bitte r al monds .

I nstead of the co m parati vely exp ensiv e bi tter al m o nds ,

p each k ernels fr eed fro m th ei r hard sh ells are extensi vely

u s ed in t he fa brica tio n of oil of bitt e r a l m o nds The oi l .

i s pr ep a red as follows The pr ess cak es of bitt er al m o nds

or p each k er nels a re gro u nd a nd soak ed a bo u t tw enty
fo u r h o urs in tw ic e th ei r w e ight of w at er to which o ne
th ird th eir w eight of salt has b een a dd ed T he whol e .

is th en s u b m itt ed to distillati o n T he t e m p era t u r e o f

.

t he wat e r sho u ld not e xceed 1 1 3 to 1 2 2 F T he ° °

.

e m ul si n co nt a i ned i n t he a l m o nds poss ess es o nly with i n

certa i n li mits of temp era t ure t he pow e r of d eco mposi ng

a mygdal i n a nd i f h eated to 1 7 6 F b eco m es i nop e ra
, ,
°
.
,

t iv e Hence if t he al m o nd past e is q u ickly h ea t ed to

.
,

boi li ng t he em ul si n b eco mes i nop erativ e before all t he

,

a mygdali n is d eco mpos ed a nd a portio n of it b eing con

,
 V O L A T I L E O I L S USED IN PER FUMERY . 89

s equently lost the yi eld i s i ns uffici e nt The distill a tio n

,
.

of t he al mo nd paste is effected i n a c u rr ent of stea m .

A portio n of th e pr ussic acid for m ed by t he d eco m

positio n of t he a mygdal i n adh e res tenacio u sly to t he oi l .

This co ntent of pr ussic acid mak es the Oil of bitter

al m o nds exc eedi ngl y poiso no us wh il e i n its el f i t i s n on ,

poiso no u s It can be freed fro m t he pr ussic acid by

.

shaki ng with ferro us s ul phate (bl ue vitriol ) sol utio n .

By th en distilli ng ov er b urn t l i me t he origi na lly y ellow

or y ellowi sh oil is obta i ned colorl ess It is th en thi nly .

fl u id of a p ec ul i a r agr eea bl e odor a nd st ro ngly nutty

,

t ast e . Its S p ecific gra vi ty i s at 5 9 F b u t vari es °

a l ittl e w ith age It boils at 3 5 6 F a nd dissol v es i n

.
°
.
,

1 3 parts of w a t er b u t mor e r eadily i n alcoh ol a nd eth er

,
.

I n t he a ir it is ra pidly co nv erted i nto b enzoic acid by

t h e a bsorpti o n of oxyg en It has to be carefully pro .

t ecte d fro m air a nd light a nd k e p t i n w ell clos ed bottl es -

i n a dark pl ac e T he cr ud e oil co nt a i ni ng fro m 2 to 5

.
,

er c e nt pr u ssic a cid has g e ne rally a y ellowish color

p .
,
.

Oil of bitter a l m o nds may be prepar ed a rtifici ally in

ma ny ways By allowi ng chlori ne to flow i nto boi l i ng
.

tol uene t he l a tter i s co nv erted i nto b enzyl ch lorid e

,

C 6H, (C H3) C 1, 0 6 H, (C H, 0 1) HC 1
t ol u en e h
c l or i n e b e n zy l ch l or i d e h y d r o gen ch l o r i d e

By w ith d ra wi ng t he chlori ne a nd o ne ato m h y drog en

fro m t he b enzyl chlorid e a nd i ntrod uci ng for i t one
a to m oxyg en t he b e nzyl chlorid e is co n v e rt ed i nto b en
,

zal d eh d e Th is co n v rsio n i r adily ff ct d by n

y . e s e e e e c o

t inu o us l y boi li ng b e st with t he i ntrod ucti o n of carbo n ic

,

a cid 1 part of b e nzyl chlorid e with 1 parts of l ad

, % e

n itrat e a nd 1 0 parts of wate r a nd finally distill i ng the ,

 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

b enzald ehyd e Off by st ea m T he d eco m positio n tak es

.

place accordi ng to t he followi ng eq uatio n

P b(N O, )2
P bC l N O E 30 .

T he cr ud e b enzald ehyd e th us obtai ned is agi ta ted

w ith w a r m sol utio n of acid sodi u m s ulph it e t he s o ,

l ution for m ed th e reby i s s ep a ra t ed fro m u ndissol v ed

oily p a rti cl es and cool ed wh e reby a co mbi natio n of
,

b enzald ehyd e with acid sodi u m s u lphate crystal l iz es

o ut. Th is co mb inatio n is s eparated fro m t he r e
m ai n i ng fl u id d eco m pos ed by acid and s ub m itte d
,

to distill a tio n wh er eby b enzald ehyd e pass es ov er

,
.

L arg e q ua ntiti es of b enz a ld ehyd e a re at pres ent p re

par ed a ccordi ng to t his m ethod The id ent ity of .

b enzald ehyd e with oi l Of bitter a l m o nds has b een

es ta blish ed by L i pp m a nn a nd H a w l iczek .

G enu i ne oi l of al m o nds i s much ad ult erated ch i efly ,

w ith alcohol n itrob enzol e a nd vari o us ch eap er oils

, ,
.

A n ad d iti o n of 3 to 5 p er c ent of alcohol i s freq ue ntly

.

m a d e by Ita l ia n d eal e rs i n ord er to co nceal a co nten t of

water wh ich at a l ow temp erat u re is apt to r end er t he
,

oi l t urbid To d etect t he presence of alcoh ol m od er

.
,

ately h eat a sa m pl e of t he oil in a distill i ng app a ratu s

a nd co m po u nd t he drops first passi ng ov er with sodi u m
,

c arbo nat e sol u tio n a nd th e n with potassi u m iod id e sol u

tio n I n the pres ence of alcohol a y ellowish crysta lli ne

.

precipit ate of i odoform i s form ed

A n a dd itio n of sy nth etically co mpos ed Oi l m ight s eem
of no i mportance si nce t he na t ural oil does not di ffer
,

fro m it H ow ev e r for v ery fine p e rfu mery the nat ural

.
,

oil ca nnot be replaced by the art ificial it havi ng b een ,

 V OL A TI L E OI L S USED IN PERFUMERY . 1

th us fa r i mpossibl e to obtai n t he latter absol utely ch em i

cally p ur e .It a l w ays co nta i ns s mall q u antiti es of
u nd e co m pos ed chlori ne co m bi na tio ns w h ich i nj ure t h e

taste a nd odor To d et ect s uch oil i n t he nat ural oil

.
,

bri ng a few d rops u po n a t u ft of cotto n a nd ig nit e it .

Ov e r the b u rn i ng fla me i nv ert a b eak er m oistened i nsid e

with w a ter On the m oi st sid es of t he b eak er th e soot
.

a nd hydrochlori c acid for m ed by t he co mb u sti o n of the

chlori ne co mbi na tio n are precipit ated Wh en t he fl a me .

i s exti ng u ish ed the b ea k er is ri ns ed o ut with wa ter t he

, ,

fl uid filtered a nd tested for chlori ne w ith ni tra te of

silv e r A n additio n of 1 0 pe r c ent arti fici a l oil ca n i n
. .

thi s m a nne r be acc u rately d et er m i ned .

If g enu i ne oil of bitter al mo nd s co ntai n i ng pr ussi c aci d ,

be h eat ed wi th a n exc ess of alcoholic potash l ye a nd t he ,

exc ess of t he latt er be ne utra liz ed with hyd rochlori c a cid ,

b enzoi n a mo u nti ng to 40 to 5 0 p er ce nt of t he w eigh t of .

Oil of bitt e r a l mo nds is a ccordi ng to A K r emel s epara t ed

,
.
,
.

By s ubj ecti ng artificial Oil of bitte r a l m o nd s t o the sa m e

trea t ment no b enzoi n i s s ep a rat ed so th at the g enu i ne
, ,

Oil ca n i n th is m a nner be disti ng u ish ed fro m t he a r t ifi

cial. K rem el furt h er fo und th a t Oil of bitt er al m o nds

pr epared fro m apricot k er nel s wh en treated i n a n a nalo
,

go u s ma nner yi eld ed co nsid era bly l ess b enzoi n a nd

, ,

th a t ch erry la u rel Oil co ntai ni ng pr u ssi c acid wh ich has

-
,

b een co nsid ered id entical with Oil of bitter al m o nds s e pa ,

rated no b enzoi n wha tever Sh o uld furth er exp eri m ents

.

prov e t he co nsta ncy of this ph eno meno n this r eacti o n ,

wo uld be a co nv eni ent m ea ns of disti ng u ish i ng t he fo u r

prod ucts .

A n ad ulteratio n wi th n itrob en zol e a nd oth er vo l atil e

oils is r ecog niz ed by m i x i ng 2 drops of t he oi l with 1 00
92 MANUFAC T URE OF P ERFUMERY .

drops of distill ed water and sh a k ing vigoro u sly P ur e ,

.

Oil m ust co mpl etely dissol v e How e v er t he t es t yi elds .

,

a cc urat e r es u lts o n ly wit h t he u se of a ct ually p ur e dis

till ed water a nd by a cc u ratel y obs ervi ng t he a bov e

m entio ned proportio ns If to 5 c ubic c e nti m ete rs of 9 0 .

er c ent alcohol a nd a n eq ual q u a ntity of distill ed wate r

p .

i n a t est t u b e 1 0 d rops of t he Oi l be a d d ed a nd a ft er
-
, , ,

closi ng t he tu b e with the fi nger m i xt u re be effected by ,

g ently tu rn i ng the t ub e t w ice u psid e dow n a cl ear sol u tio n ,

w ill i mm ed iat ely r es ult i f t h e Oil is p u re If how e ver .

, ,

i t co nta i ns n itrob enzol e e v en o nly 1 per cent the latte r ,

.
,

s ep a rates at first r end eri ng t he fl uid t u rbid but i n the

, ,

co u rse of a m i nute w h en g ently agitated i t floa ts in the, ,

for m of m i nu te drops u po n the fl u id wh il e wh en at , ,

r est th es e drops col l ect to larg er o nes o n t he botto m o f

,

t he t est t u b e-
If the oil b eco m es o nly tu rbid ad ulte ra
.
,

tio n with oth er volatil e Oils is i ndicated A noth er test .

,

g iv en by Wag ner is b a sed u po n t he di ffere nce i n t he

,

sp ecific gravity of m i xt u res of oil of bitter al m o nds wi th

O il of m irba ne T he sp eci fic gravi ty of co mmercia l oi l
.

of bitter al mo nd s v a ri es bet w een a nd and

that of Oil of m i rb ane b et w een and

5 c c . of pu r e o il o f b itter a l m on d s w eigh g ra mm es .

5 mi x ed w ith oi l of m i r b ane
5

"
U H N
5 I
( C

5 of p u re

of bitter a l mo nds i s m uch used i n the fa brica tio n

O il
of p erfumery I n a p u re state its odor i s by no mean s
.

a gr eeabl e b ut rath er stro ng a nd st up efyi ng

,
Wh en .

stro ngly di l uted it i s h ow ev er v ery pl easant , ,

.

A ng eli ca oi l i s obtai ned by distillat ion with wate r

94 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

of stea ropte ne t he great er t he l a tter t he high er the

S p ecific gra vity G ood a nis e s eed oi l co nta i ns 5 to 1 0 p er
.
-
-

c ent Of terp ene a nd 9 0 to 9 5 p er cent of a st earoptene

. .
,

ca ll ed a nethol OmH n O on wh ic h the v a l ue of t he o il

, ,

d ep ends The a nethol ca n be s eparated fro m t he Oil by

.

cool i ng to 3 2 F a nd for ms colorl ess crystals It has

°
.
,
.

a n a gr eea bl e Odor a nd i nt en s e ly sw ee t tast e is sp a ri ngly ,

sol ubl e i n water b ut r eadi ly i n alcohol eth er a nd oth er

, , ,

sol v ents of v ol a til e Oils G ood a nethol has a sp ecific .

gr a vity of a nd m elts at 6 9 to 7 0 F By fre ° °

.

q u e nt co ntact with t he a ir a s m all porti o n of t he a neth ol

i s oxid iz ed v ery l ik ely to a nis ald ehyd e By thi s pro
, .

cess t he S p ecific gra v ity is r a is ed a nd the melti ng poi nt

low er ed .

A n is e s eed oil i s sol ubl e i n 5 par ts of 9 0 p er ce nt

-
.

al cohol a nd with ,
ti mes its vol um e Of p etrol e u m
eth e r yi elds a cl ear m ixt ure Its m ixt ure with fo ur .

ti mes its w eight of p etrol e u m eth er is t urbid b ut b e -

,

co m es cl ear in t en mi n utes whil e th a t with fi ve ti mes ,

its vol ume of p etrol eu m eth er r em ai ns for a lo nger ti m e -

t urbid I n a fl u id state t he oil wh en expos ed to t he

.
,

air b eco mes r esi no u s a nd los es its prop erty to crysta l

,

liz e . It S ho u ld th ere for e be k ept i n tightly close d

, ,
-

bottl es i n a cool S hady pl a ce ,

.

A n is e s eed Oil is used i n p erfu m i ng soaps a nd m o u th

-

waters It S ho uld how e v e r be u s ed wi th pru d ence

.
, , ,

S i n ce t h e s w eetish p ene trati ng odor of t he oil ,

r eadi ly
ov erco mes t he oth er v ol at il e oils in t he m ixt ure a nd r en ,

d ers th em i nop erati v e .

S ta r a ni s e Oil v e ry mu ch r es embl es the ordi na ry a nis e

seed Oil It i s Obt a ined fro m star anise the fru it of
.
,

I lli ci um a nis a tu m a tr ee for m erly s u ppos ed to be i ndig e

,
 V O L A T I L E O I LS USED IN P ER FU M ER Y . 95

o s to
n u C och i n C hi na , c ulti v at ed in C hi na Japa n
a nd , ,

a nd t he P hill ip ine Isl a nds H ow e v e r a ccordi ng to

.
,

M essrs B o urgm in M eifl re a F r ench firm Of H a no i

‘
-
.
,

To nk i n h e st a r a nis e Oil fo u nd in co m merce i s e xcl u

( ) t ,

s i vel prod u ced in t he F r en ch colo ny To nki n (P rovi nc e

y
L a ngson) t he F rench gov er nm en t hav i ng m ad e ov er t he
,

entire s a l e of t he oi l to t he abov e m entio ned fi r m

-
.

A ccordi ng to a m em oir p u blish ed by D r B lo nd el of .

,

P aris t he star a nis e tr ee is n ot i ndige no u s to t he C h i nes e

,

provi nces Y unna n Q ua ng S i a nd F O R i en but to t he

,
-
,
-
,

provi nce L a ngs on whic h has by co nq uest pass ed i nto

,

F rench poss essio n H ence t he prod u c ers of sta r a nis e

.
,

a nd st a r a nis e Oi l a re n o w und e r F r e nch co ntrol a nd as ,

i t s eems are oblig ed to s el l a l l t he oil prod uc ed to t he

,

abov e me ntio ned firm

-
If th ese sta te ments S h o uld
.

prov e corr ect t he C h i nes e h a rbors M acao a nd Ho ng

,

K o ng fro m which t he grea t er portio n of st a r a n is e oi l

,

w a s for m erly export ed will los e th eir i m porta nc e i n thi s

,

r esp ect and t he prod uct find its way direct fro m Ha nOI
vi a Ha h o n to M ars eill es Th e first S hi p me n t fro m
yp g .

B ou rgeoin M eiffre arriv e d i n E urop e i n D ec em b er 1 8 9 0

-
,
.

A ccordi ng to M essrs S chi mm el C o s r eport t he pro

’
.
,
.

d uct i s p ut u p a nd p a ck ed ex actly lik e th at for me rly

S h ipp ed fro m Ho ng K o ng a nd t he Oil Of exc ell ent q u ality
,
.

S tar a nis e Oi l di ffers fro m the ordi nary oi l i n co n

tai ni ng a m uch s mall er q ua ntity of a nethol a nd h enc e
co ng eali ng o nly at a t emp erat u re of fro m 4 1 to 5 0 F °
.

B esid es t he odor of the t erp ene co ntai ned in star a nis e

oil di ffers fro m that of the ordi nary oil A d m ixt ures o f .

s tar a nise oi l can th er efore be genera lly r ecogni z ed by

, ,

t he odor Oth er methods r eco mmend ed for its d etec

.

tio n are unr el iabl e .

96 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

B a lm oi l — The l eav es of th is pla nt M elissa afici na li s

, ,

y i eld by distill atio n a vol a til e Oil so meti m es call ed oil of

meliss a . It is colorl ess or y ellowish of a pl eas ant odor
, ,

ha s a S p ecific grav i ty of to shows a slightly

acid r eactio n a nd dissolv es in 2 to 3 parts of alcohol .

It m u st n o t be co nfo und ed w ith the S O— call ed Ea st

I ndi a Oil of melissa or citro nell a Oil fro m A nd r op og on
N a r d us L . B a l m Oil i s occasio na lly used i n t he prepa
r a tio n o f ea u d e Colog ne .

B as il oi l i s d is till ed i n S o u th er n F ra nc e fro m the fr es h

l eav es of Ocymum ba s i li cum L nat u ral ord er L a bi a tce
.
, .

The oi l shows t he p ec u liar Odor of t he h erb a nd crys

t a l l iz es a fe w d egree s abov e 3 2 F
°
I n p erfu mery i t is
.

u s ed as a n a dditio n to vi ol et a nd oth e r pre paratio ns .

The F r ench also pr epar e a p omma d e ba s i liq u e w h ich ,

s erv es a s a ch eap s u bstit ute for vi ol et po ma d e .

B a yber r y oil or oi l of ba y lea ves is e xtract ed by dis

, ,

t il l a t io n fro m t he l ea v es of M yr cia a cr i s or t he bay

b erry tree M a ny vari eti es of t he tree exist thro ugh o u t
.

t he W est I ndi es wh ich are sc a rcely to be disti ng u ish ed

,

bot anically but hav e q u ite a d i fferent Odor fro m that of

,

t he g enu i ne tr ee G r ea t care m u st th e re for e be t ak en

.
, ,

i n t he coll ectio n of t he l eav es wh ich ar e to be used as ,

t he ad m ixt u re of a s mall q ua ntity of t he oth er l ea v es

may entirely spoi l t he prod uct of distillatio n Two oils
.

a re Obt a i ned a l ight oil of S p ecific gravity of

,
to
a nd a h eavy oil w i t h S p ec i fic gra vity to
Wh en first distill ed t he oil is colorl ess bu t by ,

e xpos ur e to t h e air q u ickly acq u i res a y ellowish ti nt and

,

i f the expos ure be co nti nued b eco mes q u ite dark in color
,
.

The odor of t he freshly d istill ed oil is ra nk bu t in t he

-
,

co urs e of fro m three to six m o nths it b eco mes mello w ,

98 MANUFACT URE OF P E R F U M ER Y .

The Oil is
freq uently ad ulterated with alcoh o l To .

d etect s uch a d ulteratio n R igh i n i r eco mmends t he fol low

,

ing m ethod M i x 1 5 parts of t he Oil with a lik e q ua n

tity of p ur e ol i v e oi l or oil of sw eet al m o nds If .

a lcohol i s pr es en t i t i m mediat ely s epar a tes li k e wat er

,
, ,

fro m t he fat Oil i f no s eparati o n t a k es pl a ce t he oil i s

not a d u lt era t ed with alcohol T he ta nn i n t est also gi v es
.

r eli a b l e r es ults I n stori ng Oil of b e rg a m ot gr eat c a r e

.

m u st b e ex ercis ed to e xcl ud e a ir a nd light as i t is o ne ,

of t he most ch ang eabl e oils a nd soo n acq u ires a n Odor

r esembl i ng that of t urp enti ne .

L arg e q u a n titi es of Oil of b erga mot a re u s ed i n p er

fu me ry It form s S O to say t he basis for m ost of t he
.
, ,

fi ner prod ucts I n C olo gne w at er i t for m s t he pri ncip a l

.

co nstit uent in the m ixt u r e of volatil e Oi l s .

Caj ep u t o l (i o l eu m ca
jp )
e u ti —T hi s oil i s O bt a i ned by
.

dist ill atio n fro m t he l eav es of s ev eral sp eci es of M ela leucce ,

nat ur a l ord er Ca r yop hylla cece i ndig eno u s to t he Ea st ,

I ndi es Ba nd a a nd M alabar T he ordi nary oil ha s a

, ,
.

greenish color and poss ess es a stro ng odor of ca m phor

a nd a p ung e nt taste It i s ch i efly i m port ed by w ay of
.

A mst erda m wh e re it i s partially discolor ed by r ect ifi

,

catio n so that two k i nds t he w h it e a nd green caj ep u t

, ,

oil are bro ught i nto co mm erce T he color of t he l atte r

,
.

i s generally s uppos ed t o be d ue to a r esi no u s s ubsta nce

co nta i n i ng ch lorophyl t ho ugh oth ers ass ert that it origi
,

nates fro m t he copp e r of t he disti lli ng appa rat u s a nd t h e

C opp e r flasks i n which i t i s dispatch ed T he sp ecific .

gravity of the oil va ri es b etw een a nd

tho ugh sp eci fically lighter a nd h eavi er oi ls are said to

occ ur .

It is cl a i med that an artifici a l caj ep ut oil is often p re

 V OL A T I L E O I LS USED IN PERFUME R Y . 99

pa red fro m ca mph or a nd ros emary Oil t he gree n color ,

bei ng obta i ned by distillatio n w ith m ilfoil The .

pres ence of ca mphor may be r ead ily d eter m i ned by

thoro ughly t r itu ra t ing a fe w drops of t he o il wi t h s ugar
a nd th en dissolvi ng i n w a t er w h e r e by t he particl es of ,

ca mph or s epara te in the for m of wh ite fl a k es upo n t he

s urfa ce.

Caj e p u t Oil is fre q uently a d u lt e rat ed w ith oi l of t u r

p enti ne a nd ros e ma ry Oil S uch ad ult eratio n i s recog
.

n ized b v p u r e caj ep ut oil dissolvi ng cl ea r i n e q ual par t s

O f 9 0 p er c e nt a lcohol wh ich i s no t t he ca s e w it h t he
.
,

oth er two oils .

Ca momile momile ole um —

o r cha o il
( h
a nt emi d is ) Tw o
.

vari e ti es o f oi l of ca m o m il e a re fo u nd in co mmerce o ne ,

gree n a nd t he oth e r bl ue The first is d eri v ed fro m t he

.

flo w ers of t he g e nui ne or R o ma n ca mo m il e (A nthemis

nobi l is a nd t he bl ue fro m t he co m mo n v a ri e ty (llfa tr i
)
ca r ia cha mo mi la
) .Th e last oil is t he o ne ch i efly us ed

i n t he m a nu fact ure of p e rfu mery a nd i n medici ne .

B l ue ca momile o il i s ge nera lly Obt a i ned by dis t illatio n .

I n d istilli ng m etal F lore nti ne flasks S ho uld b e us ed a s

, ,

t he Oil a d h e r es t e na cio u sly to gl a ss v ess els a nd t he d istil

late has to be treated with eth er T he p u re oil has a .

b ea uti ful bl ue color a nd o n h eati ng for m s bl ue vapors

,
.

I t has a p enetra ti ng Od or wh ich o nly by stro ng dil utio n

b eco mes S i mil a r to th at of ca m o m il e By stori ng in .

t he light a nd t he si m ult a neo u s pr es e nc e Of a ir t he oi l ,

t u rns green ; l ate r o n brow n a nd is fi nally co nv ert ed

.

, ,

i nto a thickly fl uid bro w n is h m ass

-
,
.

Gr een ca momile oil fro m t he g en u i ne or R o ma n ca m o

m il e poss ess es nu agreeabl e Odor of fr esh l em o ns ; it i s
mor e s eldo m us ed tha n t he oth er .
 1 00 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

On acco unt Of the S ligh t yi eld obt a ined fro m the

flow ers ca mo m il e oil i s rath er exp ensi v e
,
.

C ar a w a y oi l (oleum ca r u i ) is obtai ned by distill atio n

fro m t he s eeds Of the w ell k now n a ro m atic pl a nt Ca r um
-

ca r u i or th e caraw ay nat u ral ord er U mbelli er ce

, , f I n a .

fresh p u rifi ed sta te t he oi l i s colorl es s v ery thi nly fl u id

, ,
-

a nd poss ess es a p ung ent t ast e T he oi l pr epar ed fro m

.

cl ea nsed D utch s eed is b est lik ed w h il e t h a t distill ed

,

fro m N orw egi a n or Tvr ol ese s eed is not mu ch in d ema nd ,

i ts t a st e a nd Odor no t b e i ng so p u r e o n acco u nt of t he
m a ny i m p u riti es m i xe d with th e s e ki nds of s eed .

C araw ay oi l co nsists m ai n ly of a t erp ene OwH m , ,

ca ll ed ca r vene sp ecific gravi ty a nd Of ca r vo l S e

, p ,

c ific gr a vity The rich er th e oi l i n ca rvol t he ,

h igh er its sp eci fic gravity G ood cara w ay Oil sho uld

.

h a v e a S pecific gra vi ty of to The ca r v ol

b e i ng t he actu al b ear er of t he a ro ma t he val u e of t he ,

Oi l e xcl u siv ely d e p end s on t he co nt ent of i t I n t he .

b etter vari eti es of oi l t he co ntent Of carvol a m o u nts to

,

fro m 4 5 to 50 p er cent wh il e poor er q u al iti es genera lly

.
,

co nt a i n o nly fro m 4 0 to 4 2 p e r cent The ca rvol a nd .

c a rv ene a re no w fr eq u ently sepa rated by fractio nal dis

ti ll a ti o n T he carvol wh ich has thr ee ti mes as stro ng
.
,

a n odor a nd t ast e as t h e car v ene dissol v es w ith m uch

,

great er facility i n a lcoh ol The carv ene b ei ng offer ed

.

a t v e r y low pr i c e s m ight be s u itabl e for p e rfum i ng ch ea p

so aps .

C araway Oi l obtai ned by di still at i o n fro m t he pl a nt

has a l ess agreeabl e Odor tha n th a t fro m t he s eed a nd ,

possesses an acrid r esi no u s taste .

The p u rity of cara w ay Oil i s r ecog n iz ed by its d is sol v

i ng cl ear i n eq ual parts Of 9 0 p er cent alcohol If s uch
. .
102 MANUFAC T U R E OF PERFUMERY .

t h ey a re macerated with w ater a nd allowed to st and i n

a w a rm pl a ce for 2 4 h o u rs By s ubs eq uent d istill ati o n
.

a vol atil e oi l is obtai ned w h ich closely res e m bl es oil of

bitt e r a l m o nds b ut di ffers in so m e r esp ect s It i s color
, .

l ess or y ellowi sh rarel y r eddish a nd of sp ecific gravi ty

, ,

to I n i t s b ehavi or to w ards a ir sol v ents a nd , ,

r ea g e nt s it do e s n o t e ss entially di ffer fro m oil of bitt e r

,

TO d etect Oil of m i rba ne i n ch erry lau rel Oi l E nrico -

,

P ega a dds so m e alcohol to the oi l to be t est ed a nd th en

m i x es it w i t h so m e a lcoh olic pot a sh lye a nd a fe w drops
O f fe rric chlorid e sol u tio n A fte r st a ndi ng for a few
.

ho u rs t he m ixt ure i s sh a k en and distill ed A s mall .

portio n of t he Oil disti lli ng ov er i s fr eed fro m w a t er ,

po u red u po n a fe w s mall pi eces of p u re ca u stic po ta s h

i n a t est t u b e a nd h eat ed ov e r a l a mp
-
,
I f t he sa m pl e .

i s p ure i t r e m a i ns colorl ess ; i n t he pres enc e of oi l Of

m i rba ne it acq u i res a d a rk color a tio n i n co n s eq uen c e of
t he for matio n of ni t ro b en z id e a nd a nili ne a fe w drops ,

of c a lci u m chlorid e sol utio n bro ught i nto the m ixt ur e

prod uci ng for th is reaso n a vi ol et col oratio n
, ,
.

C h e rry l a u r el oi l is bu t s eldo m u sed for p erfu m i ng

p u rpos es .

Ci nna mon o ils — Th er e a r e fo u r di fferent ki nds of th i s

O il viz
,
. Ceylo n cinna mon oil ca ss i a oi l cinna mon r oot
, ,
,

O il a nd oi l of ci nna mon lea ves

,
Tho ugh t he fi rst two
.

a re v e ry m u ch a l ik e t he C eylo n Oil is co ns id er e d t he
,

b est .

Ceylo n cinna mo n o il (oleum ci nna mo ni ceyloni ci) .

F or m erly th is oi l was excl us i vely distill ed fro m ch ips

Com p a r e Kr e m e l s ob s e r v a t i o n s , 91
’
p . .
 V OL A T I L E O I LS USED IN P ER F U M ER Y . 1 03

a nd waste of g enu i ne ci nna m o n bark of t he Cinna

t he
mo num ceylon icu m N ees a nd ca m e i nto co mm erc e fro m
, ,

Ceylo n Howe v e r t he fa brica tio n of t he Oil fro m cin

.
,

na m o n w a st e or chips i s n o w e xte ns iv ely c a rr ied o n i n

G er ma ny a nd this oil b ei ng prepared with t he assist

, ,

a nce Of m ore p erfect a ppa ra t us has a l most entirely s up ,

pla nted that exported fro m Ceyl o n .

Wh en fresh t he C eylo n oil is colorl ess b ut wh en

, ,

stored for so me ti m e it b eco m es fi rst gold en y ello w a nd

lat er o n brow nish It is thickly fl uid a nd h eavi er tha n
.
-

water its speci fic gra vity b ei ng

,
to It h as
a n ag re ea bl e a ro m a tic odor a nd a biti ng b ut p u r e sw ee t
, ,

t aste . I t s pri ncipal co nstit u ent is ci nna mald ehy d e

( CQ
H O ) Sa nd i t co nt ai ns b esid es
,
4 to 8 p e r c en t of , ,
.

eu g enol The pres ence Of t he l a tte r in ci nna m o n o il

.

m ay b e establish ed by shaki ng with 1 5 p er c e nt soda .

sol utio n wh e reby t he e ug e nol i s d issol v ed a nd d ecom

, ,

pos ing t he aq ueo us sol utio n wi t h hydrochloric a cid .

The e ug e nol s e p a rat ed th ere by gi v es in alcohol ic sol u

tio n w h en co m po u nd ed with a trace of ferric chlorid e
, ,

a b ea u ti ful bl ue color .

Ca s s ia o il (o leum ca ss ic ) — I n C h i na a nd C och i n C h i na e
.

th is Oil i s Obtai ned by disti l latio n fro m the bark u nr i p e ,

fr u its b uds and oth er w a ste of t he Cinna monum ca s si a

, ,

or Cinna monum a r oma ti cum N ees a tree i ndig eno u s to , ,

those co untri es It has a pal e y ellow color wh ich i n

.
,

ti me b eco mes brow n It i s thickly fl uid of sp ecific .

-
,

gravi ty to a nd poss ess es a sw ee t t a st e with

a n a cri d aft er ta ste L ik e ci nna m o n oil i t co n si sts

-
.
,

ch i efly of ci nna mald ehyd e b ut co ntai ns no e uge nol a nd , ,

h ence ca n be r eadily disti ng u ish ed fro m C eyl o n oi l by

1 04 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER FU M E R Y .

t he abov e m ent io ned rea ction One p art of p ure cassi a

-
.

Oi l d i ssol v es i n two p a rts of 8 0 p er c ent alcohol . .

C inna mon r oot o il a nd o il of ci nna mon lea ves — N eith e r

of th e s e oils co nta i ns ci nnamald ehyd e b ut ab und ant ,

q ua ntiti es of e ug enol t he root oi l as m uch a s 50 t o 7 0

,

er c e nt T h e root Oil i s q u it e l i m pid a nd h as an

p .

a greea bl e odor of ci nna m o n a nd clov es The l ea f oi l .

i s th ickly fl u id of t he co nsist ency of ca stor o i l

-
,
.

T he C eylo n Oil i s fr eq u ently a d ult erat ed with c a ssia

Oil . S uch ad ul ter a tio n is v ery diffic ult to d et ect a nd ,

ca n o nly b e r ecog ni z ed by exp e rts by t he Odor a nd t a st e .

T he q ual ity of cassi a oil i s r ecog niz ed by t he tast e a nd

Odor e sp eci a lly o n h ea ti ng a nd t he h igh sp ecific gr a vity
, , ,

i n co n seq uen ce Of wh ich t he oi l si nk s in w at er A ccord .

i ng to Hag e r cassia oil i s freq uently ad ulter a t ed with

,

oil of cl ov es This i s how ev er scarcely prob a bl e t he

.
, , ,

price of oil of clo v es b ei ng on a n a v erag e high er tha n

, ,

th a t of cassi a oil The latter h ow ev er is freq u ently

.
, ,

ad ult erated with ch eap er thickly fl uid volatil e oils es -

,

p ecial l
y with c ed a r oi l I n th is cas e t h e Oi l do es n ot
.

di ssolv e in t he a bov e— mentio ned proportio n i n alcohol .

T he v a l ue of c a ssi a oil is d ep end en t o n its co nt ents

of ci nna mald ehyd e H ence t he esta blish ment of its
.
,

a ct ua l val ue r e q u i r e s a q u a n tit a ti v e d et er m i na tio n of its

co nte nts Of ci nna m ald ehyd e wh ich un fortu nat ely p re ,

s ents gr eat diffi cu lti es F o r thi s p u rpos e S ch i mmel

.

C O proc eed i ndi r ectly as follows : 7 5 gra mmes of cassi a

.

oil i n a ca pacio u s boili ng fl a sk are m i x ed with 300

gra mmes of a boil i ng hot 30 p er c e nt sol uti o n of aci d
-
.

sodi um s ulph ite wh e re by ci nna ma ld ehyd e sod i um s ul

,
-

p hi t e is i m m ediat ely s e p a r a t ed T he whol e i s t h en.

vigoro usly agi t ated and al l ow ed to r est for a short t i me .

 M A N U F A C TU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

F or e xa mpl e
U s ed g r a m m es o f Oi l
h h
.

F i r s t w e i g i n g o f t h e b e a k er a ft er e v ap or a t i n g th e et er g r a m m es
S eco n d
Th i r d
Ta r e of t h e b ea k er

H e n ce h
n o n - al d e y d es i n t h e Oi l g r a mm es .

L es s t a r e

g ram m e s .

Cal cu l at e d t o p er c en t p er cen t
h
. .
,

10 0 p er cen t c i nn am al d e y d e
. .

By acc urately followi ng t he directio ns giv en th e dif ,

ference betwee n two co ntrolli ng d e ter m i natio ns wil l be

o nly a fe w tenths p er c ent s eldo m a s m u ch a s 1 p er .
,

c ent F o r practica l p urpos es for wh ich a lo ne this

.
,

m ethod is i n tend ed th is i s more tha n s uffi ci ent

,
.

A ccordi ng to t he r eports of S ch i mm el Co al l t he .
,

ca ssi a oi l bro ught i nto co m merc e fro m C h i na was for a

co ns id era bl e ti m e ad ulterat ed with r esi n a nd p etrol eu m ,

th ey h a vi ng fo u nd as m u ch as 30 p er c e nt of r esi n i n .

t he oil S uch a d ulte ratio n can b e establish ed by the

.

d et er m i na tio n of t he sp eci fic gravity a nd d istilli ng t he

oil G ood cassi a oil sho u ld S how a sp eci fic gravity of
.

to at 5 9 F a nd by distill a tio n 9 0 p er cent

°
.
,
.

of p u re cassia oi l mu st pass ov er The r esid ue sho u ld .

not sol idi fy aft e r cool i ng a nd acq u ire t he charact er of a

brittl e r esi n i t m ust r ema i n a t l east thickly fl uid a nd -

,

u nd e r no co nditio ns a mo u nt to m or e tha n 1 0 e r c en t
p .

Ci tr on oil (oleu m ci tr i) fro m the p e el of t he fr u it of

,

Ci tr us med i ca or t he citro n t r ee The oil i s pr epar ed i n .

a si mil a r m anner to th a t of oil of berga m ot e i th er by ,

expr ess io n or d istillatio n t he l a tt e r proc ess yi eld ing m or e

,

a nd p u re r Oil .

R ect ified citro n oil is color l ess of a n agreeabl e p ene ,

 V OL A TI L E O I L S USED IN PERFUMERY . 107

t ra t i ng odor crid t aste a nd v ery s ensi t iv e to light

a nd a ,

a nd a ir . By expos u r e to l ight it t u rns y ello w a nd i f a i r

.

b e ad m itt ed at t he sa me ti me it is first co n v ert ed i n to ,

a fl uid wh ich o n a cco u nt of i ts co nt ent of ozo ne pos

, ,

s es s es s t ro ng bl each i ng pow ers T he Oi l a t t he s a m e .

ti me acq u ir es a dis agreea bl e Odor r es e mbl i ng t hat of ,

oi l of t urp enti ne a nd is fi na lly co nv erted i nto a r esi no us

,

m a ss .

C itro n Oil i s freq u e ntly ad ult er a t ed w ith oil of ora ng e

a nd so m e ti mes w i th Oi l of b e rg a m ot Th ese ad ulte ra .

t io ns a re r ea dily d et e ct ed by a n exp eri enc e d p erso n by

t he odor this b ei ng i n fa ct t he b est g uid e

,
T he S pe .

c ific gra v ity of citro n O il i s at 5 9 F ; i t boils a t °

.

fro m to F a nd co ng eals a t 4 F
.
°
.

Citr onella o il (oleum citro nella ) i s ch i efly d istill ed i n "

C eylo n fro m t h e l emo n gra ss A nd r op og o n lV ar d us L

‘

, ,
.

It is q u ite li mpi d of a greeni sh y ello w to brow n color

,
-
,

a nd ha s a n odor r es e mbl i ng tha t of g e nu i ne citro n O i l .

I ts S p ecific gravity i s a t 59 F a nd i t boils at .

°
.
,

fro m 3 9 2 to 4 1 0 F Of th e v a rio us oils reach i ng t he

° °
.

“
m ark et th a t with t he trad e ma rk F ish e r
”
i s m ost
-

i n d e ma nd it b e i ng dis t i ng u ish ed by s pecial p urity

, .

Ed w ard K r emers has fo und in cit ro nella oi l a n ald e

hyd e O7H O a t erp ene C o ci tro nellol wh ich i s
, N , , l , ,

iso m eri c with bor neol furth er ac eti c acid a nd val eria nic ,

acid .

T he I ndia n d istill ers i t is cl a i med ad ulte rat e t he

, ,

citro nell a Oil with p etrol eu m a n additio n up to 2 5 p er,

cent b ei ng not u nco m mo n

. .

A ccordi ng to exp eri m ents b v S ch i mm el Co p u re .

,

citro nell a oil must gi v e a cl ear sol utio n wh en 1 p a rt ,

of t he oi l is vigoro usly Sh a k en w it h 1 0 p arts of 8 0 p er

1 08 M ANUFACT U RE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

ce nt alcohol If in e x ec uti ng t he test the k i nd of t ur

. .
, ,

b id ity is obs er ved a nd wh eth er t he po rtio n i nsol u bl e

,

i n a lcoh ol s ep a rates a ft er s t a ndi ng u po n t he s u rfa c e or

, ,

o n t he botto m of t he fl u id a nd furth e r i f t he a bov e

, ,

m enti oned q ua nti ty o f a lcohol i s not a dd ed a t o ne ti m e ,

bu t at fi rst o nly 1 or 2 p a r t s of it a co n cl usio n m ay b e ,

d ra w n as to t he k i nd a nd q ua ntity of t he a d ulter a nt .

P e trol e u m c a u s es a m i lky wh ite t urbidi ty w hil e i n -

,

th e pr es e nc e of fa t Oil t he m ixt ur e b eco mes t u r bid b u t ,

n ot a ct ua lly m il ky A S a r ul e fa t oi l d eposits a ft er
.
, ,

sta ndi ng o n t he botto m wh il e p etrol e u m floats upo n

, ,

t he s u r fa c e of t he fl u id C it ro nell a oil ad ul te rat ed w i t h

.

fat oil d o es no t d issol ve in 1 to 2 p a r t s no r i n 1 0 p a rts

of 8 0 p er cent a lcohol whil e oil ad ultera ted w ith n o t
.
,

too l a rge a q ua ntity of p etrol e u m giv es a cl ea r sol utio n ,

with 1 to 2 parts T he d eter mi na tio n of t he sp ec i fic

.

gravity m ay also s erv e for t he d etectio n of a d ult era t io ns .

This holds good h ow ev er o nly for p etrol e u m which

, , ,

r ed uces the sp ec ific g ra v it v a n additio n of fat oi l pro ,

d uc ing no d e vi a tio n i n t his r esp ect T he S p ecific g ravity .

of t heoil S ho uld not be b elow at 5 9 F °

.

C itro nell a oil is m uc h u s e d for p e rfu mi ng ch ea p h a i r

Oils a nd toil et so a ps ; it is t he chi e f co nsti t u e nt of a l l

p erfu mes for h o ney soaps I n t he A meri ca n so a p i n

-
.

d us t ry i t is e xte nsi v ely u s ed t he y ea rly co ns u m pti o n ,

b e i ng esti m ated a t m illio n o u nc es .

Cloves oil of (o leum ca r yop hylli ) i s Obtai ned by dis

, ,

t il l a t ion with st ea m or by extractio n fro m t he clov e s of

,

co m merc e wh ich a re the d ried u nex pa nd ed flow er b uds

,
~

of Ca ryop hyllus a r oma ti cus L or t he clov e tree O il ,

.
,
.

of clov es wh e n fr esh is al most colorl ess b ut o n expo

, , ,

s ure to ai r acq u ires a brow n ish colorati o n a nd a th ickly

1 10 M ANUFACT U RE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

G ood oil of clov es do es not co nta i n l ess tha n 80 per

c ent of eug enol a nd freq uently 90 p er c ent or m ore
.
,
. .

O il of clov es is chi efly ad ultera t ed with cop a i ba Oil

a nd ced a r oil S uch ad ulteratio n i s r ecog ni z ed by t he
.

oi l not form i ng a cl ear sol utio n i n e v ery proportio n w ith

alcohol as i s t he case wi t h p ur e oil of clov es
,
.

O il of clov es is m u c h u s ed for p erfu m i ng p urpos es .

Eu ca lyp tus o il (oleu m euca lyp ti ) is Obta i ned fro m t he

l eav es of vari o u s trees of t he e ucalypt u s fa mily A c .

cordi ng to M e rk two k i nds of o il m ust be s tr ict l v k ept

a part : o leum euca l ti fro m t h l a v e s Of eu ca l tu
yp e e yp s

l bu lu s a nd o leum eu ca l ti u tr a le t he for me r b ei ng
g o
yp a s ,

u s ed i n m ed ici n e a nd t he l a tt e r wh ich i s co nsid erably

, ,

ch eap er ch i efly for p e rfum i ng p u rpos es

,
How e v er .
,

P iesse s opi n io n th a t e u calypt us oil as far as its odor is

’
,

co ncerned do es n ot d es erv e to be class ed a mo ng per

,

fumes is u nd oubted l v corr ect It has a n odor b etween .

that of oil of t urpent ine a nd ca jep ut Oil and as lo ng as ,

p erfumery is t he art of sw eet odors s uch Oil cannot be ,

d esig nat ed a p erfume .

Wh en not rectifi ed e ucalypt us Oil i s m ostly yel lowish

,

or bl ui sh I n a r ectifi ed stat e it i s colorl ess cl ear

.
, ,

l i m pid lighte r tha n w a ter of a stro ng odor and acrid

, , ,

t ast e . The oil fro m euca lyp tus g lobulus has a sp ecific
gra v ity of to a nd dissol v es i n e v ery pro

portio n i n 90 p er ce nt alcohol It i s Optically i nacti v e

. .

or t u rns t he plane of polari zat io n S ligh tly to t he right .

On sta ndi ng with sodi u m it a cq u i res a y ellowish colora

ti o n a nd do es not d eto nate wit h iodi ne T he o il fro m
,
.

euca l tu s a us tr a le ha s a S p eci fic gravity of to

yp
a nd i s b ut sp a r ingly sol ubl e i n 9 0 p er c ent alcohol so .
,

t h a t e v en a sol utio n pr epar ed in t he proportio n of 1 1 5

 V OL A TI L E O I L S USED IN P ER FU M E R Y . 111

i s t u rbid It t u r ns the pl ane of polarizatio n stro ng l y to

.

t he l e ft acq u i r es o n sta nd i ng with sodi um a r ed color a

, ,

tio n a nd d etonates wi th i odi ne

,
.

E uca lypt u s oi l co nsists of eu ca l y ptol a nd eu cal yp tene ,

a nd p erhaps oth e r hyd roc a rbo n s T he co nt ent of t he .

fi rst on wh ich d epends t he m ed ici nal val ue of th e o il

, ,
'

vari es v ery m u ch i n th e Oils fro m t he di fferent sp eci es

of e ucalypt u s the oil fro m so me S p eci es i t is said con
, , ,

t a i ni ng no eucalyptol wh a tev e r .

Euca lyptol (C H 00 ) is l i m pid colorl ess t u r ns th e

24 2 2 , ,

pl ane of pol a rizatio n has a S p eci fic gra vi ty Of ,

a nd boils a t 3 4 7 F Its vapor mi x ed with ai r has a n

°
.

agreea bl e r e fr eshi ng t a ste a nd its dil ute sol uti o ns re

m
, ,

m i nd o ne o f ros es E uca lyp tene (C

.
) has a S p e cific

gravity of a nd boils a t 3 2 9 F °
.

F ennel o il (oleum fa ni c uli) i s d eri v ed by distillatio n

e

fro m t he fr u its of F oeni cul um vulg a re Ga er tner L arg e ,

.

q ua ntiti es of i t a re prod u ced in S axo ny a nd also ,

i n G al icea It i s q u it e colorl ess li m pid of sp ecific

.
, ,

gravity to a nd with a full co nt e n t of st ear ,

O t ene poss e ss e s a na u s eo u s sw ee t t ast e a nd odor It

p ,
.

co nta i ns 60 to 7 0 per cent of a neth ol a nd co ng eals at .

fro m 4 1 to 5 0 F to a crysta ll i ne ma ss T he l eav es

° °
. .

of t he pla nt also co ntai n a volatil e oil wh ich i s h ow , ,

e v e r l ess val ued tha n t he s eed —

,
oil .

G ood fennel oi l sho uld d issol v e cl ear in 1 to 2 p a rts

of 9 0 per c ent a lcohol D irect ad ulteratio ns of t hi s
. .

Oil d o not occ u r b ut t he st ea ropt ene is fr e q u e ntly wi t h

,

draw n by fractio nal distillatio n w h ereby t he oil los es

much i n val ue S uch oi l fr eed fro m stearopt ene do es
.

n ot co ng eal has a m or e bitte r tha n s weet tast e a nd do es

,

not dissolv e i n t he abov e m entio ned proportio n i n alcohol -

.
 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

In p erfumery fennel Oil i s bu t l ittl e used ; so meti mes

i n co nnectio n with oth er volatil e oi ls for p erfum i ng
so a ps .

Ger a ni um oi l p a lma r os a oil Tu r kis h g er a ni um oil is

, ,

Obt a i ned fro m A nd r op og on P a chnod es It i s y ellowish .

,

li mpid of sp ecific gravi ty

,
at 5 9 F poss ess es a °

v ery agreea bl e rose li k e odor r es em bl i ng th a t of g e

-

r an i u m oils fro m P ela rg o ni u m r a d u la A i ton a nd for , ,

this r eason is generally d esi gna ted as T urk ish g er an i u m

o il The odor of t he oil is i m prov ed by shaki ng it wi th
.

water co n ta i n i ng l em o n j u ic e a ny co nte nt of copp er ,

b e i ng th e reby r emov ed T he w ash ed Oil is th en bro ugh t

.

i nto S h a llow dish es a nd e xpos ed for two or thr ee w eeks

to t he s un wh ereby it s odor b eco m es still more lik e th a t
,

Of ros e oil The oil th us prep a red is m uch u s ed for

.

a d ult e r a ti ng ros e oil T u rk ish g era ni um oi l is a lso

.

m uch u s ed for t he a d ulteratio n of genu i ne g er a n i u m Oil

a nd i s its el f ad ulterat e d w i t h oil of t u rp e nti ne It is .

e xt e nsiv e ly e m ploy ed in p e rfu m ery esp e cially for p e r ,

fum i ng hair Oils and po mad es a nd in co nj unctio n wi th ,

gera ni um oils for ros e soap .

Ea s t I nd i a n g er a ni um oi l is obt a i ned ch i efly in t he ,

P r esid ency of B o m bay fro m A nd r op og on S choena ntus

, ,

L It i s gr ee ni s h y e llow
-
to y ellow —
brow n has a s p e ,
.

c ific grav ity of at 5 9 F a nd co nsists ma i nly of

°
.
,

g era niol Its odor is rose li k e tho u gh m odi -

,

fi ed by a l em o n li k e Odor -
It is pri ncipally u s ed for
.

p erfum i ng ch ea p er arti cl es .

F r ench a nd A fr i ca n g er a ni u m oi ls (oleum g er a ni i ) ar e
obt a i ned by distill a tio n w it h water fro m the l ea v es of
vario u s S p eci es of p elargo n i um M a ny di ffer ent ki nds .

of th is oil are fo und in co m m erce The fi nest and m ost .

1 14 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

prod uctio n The extract of j as m i ne t he ess ence d e j as

.
,
”
m i ne Of t he F r ench m a nu fa ctori es is a sol u tio n of t he,

Oil a s obtai ned by e xtractio n w ith l a rd or b ee f s ue t i n

, ,

stro ng S pir it of wi ne The odor of j as m i ne oil is so

.

p ec u li a r that it i s witho ut com pariso n a nd as s uch ,

c a nnot be i m itated .

Ju nip er o il (oleum junip er i) is Obta ined by distillatio n

fro m t he fr u its of Ju nip erus commu nis L or j unip e r ,
.
,
.

Th e b erri es u s ed for t he p urpos e shou ld b e fully grow n

a nd fr esh a nd br u is ed b e for e b e i ng plac ed i n t he still .

U nrip e b erri es yi eld a s m all er q ua ntity a nd a n oil of

so mewhat di fferent prop erti es tha n ri p e b erri es The .

Oil obtai n ed by disti llatio n with stea m is colorl ess a nd

that by ordi na ry d istillatio n y ellowish t he for mer hav ,

i ng a sp ecific gravity of to a nd t he latt e r

of to It co ns ists ma inly of t erp enes By .

sta ndi ng a stearoptene is s ep a rated wh ich crystalliz es i n

, ,

feath ery needl es fro m hot spi ri t of w i ne The odor a nd .

t a ste ofj unip er Oil r em i nd o ne at t he sa m e ti me of j uni p er

b erri es and Oil of t urp enti ne .

Ju niper Oil has a gr eat t end ency to th ick en ; i t be

co mes r esi nou s acid a nd thi ckly fl u id form ic acid b ei ng
, ,

formed It sho u ld be k ept i n w ell clos ed bottl es a nd

.
-
,

protected fro m light It i s fr eq uently ad ulterated with

.

o il of t ur ent ine a nd j un ip e r wood oil

p
-
It m a
y b e t est ed
.

by its b eh avior towards a lcohol as w ell a s by t he taste

,
.

A drop of t he Oil r ubb ed up wi th s ugar a nd shak en ,

with 5 00 gr am mes of wat er sho uld not i mp a rt a n acrid

,

t a ste to t he water Junip er oi l gi v es a cl ear sol utio n

.

with p a rt absol ut e a lcohol by a larg er qua ntity i t is

r end er ed t urbid .
 V O L A T I L E O I L S USED IN P ER F U M ER Y . 1 15

m la va nd u loe ) — L arge
L a vend er ( oil o leu q ua n titi e s of .

this oi l a re distill ed in S o u th er n F ra nce in the neigh ,

b orhoo d of G rass e a nd N i mes fro m t he flow ers of ,

l a va nd ula oflicina lis Cha im w hich grows w ild i n that

, ,

regio n It i s li m pid colorl ess or y ell owish has a stro ng

.
, , ,

odor a nd a p u ngent a ro matic so mewhat bitter taste

, ,
.

With 9 0 pe r cent alcohol it m i x es cl ear in e v ery pro

.

portio n boils at 3 2 0 F and ha s a specifi c gravi ty of

,
°
.
,

to It t urns t he pl a ne of polarizatio n to
t he l e ft .

The b est F r ench lav end er oil d istill ed fro m p u re ,

flow ers o nly is bro ught i nto co m merce u nd er t he na me

, ,
”
Ess ence d e L ava nd e M o ntbla nc It is d isti ng u ish ed .

fro m a l l oth e r ki nds in t he prep a ra tio n of whic h m or e

,

or l ess stems a nd l eav es a re us ed by its extr emely agr ee ,

abl e odor .

L av end er is also ex tensi v ely c ultivat ed i n M itcha n

a nd H itch i n Engla nd a nd u s ed for t he preparatio n
, ,

of an esp eci ally fine oil t he odor of wh ich s u rpass es ,

e v en that of t he b est F r ench prod uct It is how e ver .

, ,

co mparativ ely ex p ens iv e .

F ro m t he l eav es and flow e rs of la va nd ula sp i ca t he

s ike oi l is obtai ned by distillatio n It i s colorl ss or
p e .
,

y ellow a nd in odor a pproa ch es rosemary oil more tha n

,

lav end er oil Its boil i ng poi nt li k e that of lavend e r

.
,

oil is at
,
F a nd its sp ecific gravi ty
.
,
S pi k e
oil t urns t h e pla ne of polarizatio n o nly slightly to t he
l eft the d e vi ati on scarce ly e v e r exceedi ng
,

L av e nd e r oils a re v er y s ensiti v e to light a nd air th ey ,

b eco mi ng ozo n iz ed und er th eir infl uence a nd acq u ire a n ,

odor l ik e t urp enti ne Hence th ey m ust be k ept in w ell

.

closed v essels in a dark place .

 116 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

O ilof lav end er is freq ue ntly ad ulterat ed ch i efly w ith ,

alcohol fat oils Oil of t u rp enti ne a nd spi k e oil To

, , ,
.

test the oil mix a d rop of i t with 1 0 cu bic centi meters

,

of w a r m w a te r a nd t est t he odor wh i ch sh o uld be p ur e

, ,

a nd agr eeably lav end er li k e Th e tast e of t he vigoro u sly

-
.

a gitat ed wat e r sho uld b e tra nsi e ntly bitt e r aro ma tic .

O ne vol u me of t he oi l sho uld giv e a t urbid m ixt ure

with one vol u me of d il ute a lcoh ol (speci fic gr a v ity
but a p erfe ctly cl ear o ne with thr ee vol um es .

O n S h a k i ng c ubi c centi met er of t he oil with a fe w

grai ns of ros a nili ne i t r e ma i ns u ncolored b ut in the , ,

pres ence of e v en a trace of al coh ol it a cq uir es a r ed ,

coloratio n By m i xi ng i n a grad uated cyli nd e r eq ua l

.

vol u mes of t he oi l and di sti ll ed w a ter a nd sh a ki ng ,

v igoro u sly t he oil aft er the wat er has s ettl ed shows a

, , ,

d ecr ea s e i n vol ume i f alcoh ol b e pr es ent T he pr es enc e .

of fat oil can be r ead ily r ecog niz ed by bri ngi ng a drop
of t he oi l to be teste d u po n fil t eri ng p a p er ; a greas e
stai n is for med wh ich d is a pp ears neith er a t t he ord i
,

nary t em p erat u r e n o r by h eati ng A d u lt erati o n w i t h .

oi l of t urp enti ne i s r ecog ni z ed by t he boili ng poi nt that ,

Of oil of t u rp en ti ne b e i ng F a nd that of oil of .

,

lav end er as pre vi ou sly stated

,
F ,
.

S pi k e oil S h ou ld mix cl ear with equ al parts of 90 p er

c ent alcohol ; t he co ntrary wo u ld i ndicate ad ult erati o n
.

with oi l of t u rpenti ne .

F o r p erfu me ry lav end er oil i s of gr eat i m port a nc e

, ,

i t b ei ng m uch em ploy ed by its elf a s w ell as m ix ed w ith ,

o ther Oi ls
‘

L emon oil (oleum li monis ) i s obtai ned by vario u s pro

c ess es fro m t he ri nds of l em o ns The b est a nd m ost .

d elicately scented oi l is obtai ned by t he s o call ed spo nge

- -
118 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

work man tak es t he fr uit and rolls i t g ently but q u ickly

aro und the i nsid e of t he écu elle ; t he spi k es prick the
oi l sacs wh ereu po n the oil r unni ng dow n t he S pi k es and
, ,

t he concavity of t he p a n coll ects i n t he r es ervoir a t t he

,

low est part T he oil is filter ed a nd th en po u red i nto

.

cl ean glass bottl es in wh ich the i m p u riti es ar e allow ed

,

to s ettl e .

I n R eggi o wh er e esp eci ally m uch b erga m ot oi l i s

,

ma nu fact u red sh eet metal bowl l i k e v ess els st udd ed

,
- -
,

i nsid e with shar p ribs are u s ed S ix to eight fr u its a re

,
.

placed i n t he v essel A m ovabl e lid clos es t he v ess el

.
,

so that th ere i s j ust en o ugh space for the fr u its b etw een
t he lid a nd th e botto m of t he v ess el If ne w t he lid be .

r ev ol ved by ha nd or st ea m pow er t he ri nds of t he fr u it

-
,

a r e tor n apart a nd t he oil tog eth er w i th t he j u i c e r u n s

,

thro ugh t he si e v e botto m of the a pparat us i nto a cyl in

-

d rical v ess el wh ere it clarifi es .

T he th ird m ethod of Obtai n i ng t he oi l is by exp res s i on .

The grat ed ri nd is placed i n hair m ats a nd s u bj ect ed to ,

pow erful pr ess u re by means of a screw or l ev er press .

The proc ess of d is ti lla ti on i s carri ed on as follows

The p eels which sh o u ld be fro m s el ect fr u it a re spri nkl ed
, ,

w ith powd ered salt and a few ho u rs afterwards s uffici ent

,

w at er to m oist en th em i s po u r ed ov e r th em A day or .

two aft erwards m or e water is add ed and the wh ol e is ,

d istill ed u ntil eith er n o m ore oi l s epara t es or t he st eam ,

at first p urely fragrant b egi ns to acq u ire a ra n k a nd

,

rath er u npl easa nt s mell The oil obta i ned by distilla

.

tio n is i nferior to t he oth ers .

L ate ly a co m bi nat io n of t he éc uel l e and distilli ng pro

cess es has b een i ntrod uced by D o menico M o nfalco ne ~

,
 V O L A T I L E O I L S USED IN P ER F U M ER Y . 1 19

w h ich gi ven exc ell ent r es ults It is show n i n F ig

ha s . .

20 . F F i s a hollo w cyli nd e r of sh eet i ro n t he i nt erior

,
-
,

s u rface of wh ich i s st udd ed w ith a l arge nu mb er of

s mal l m etall ic k ni fe poi nts This cyli nd e r re volv es o n
-
.

FIG . 20 .

two axl es ttach ed to i t at d i ago nally opposite poi nts

a .

T he cv l ind e r h a vi ng b ee n h al f charg ed with l e m o ns

-
,

tog eth er wi t h a s mall q ua nti ty of wat er is set in m otio n ,

by aid of t he sh a fti ng a nd p ull eys dri v e n by t he s mall

s t ea m e ngi ne The fr u its a re th ereby m ad e to co me in
.

co nt a ct with t he m etallic l a ncets a nd th e i r wh o l e s urfa ce

,

g rad ually b eco mes p unct u red s u ffi ci ently to r uptu r e t he

cells co ntai ni ng t he vol a til e oil wh i ch escap es ,
The .

cyl ind er F F has d o u bl e w alls t he S p a ce b etw een th em

,

b ei ng i ntend ed for t he ci rc ul ati o n of a c u rren t of stea m ,

wh ich is ad m itted to h ea t t he wa ter a nd to faci li ta te t he

e xtr a cti o n of the oil whil e at t he sa m e ti me t he vapors a r e
,

rare fi ed or aspirated by t he vac uum p ump L The .

1 20 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

axl es of the cyli nd e r o n bo t h S id es a re hollo w th a t o n

t he S id e looki ng tow a rds th e e ngi ne i s i m b edd ed i n
s uch a m a nne r th a t ste a m fro m t he boil er D m ay be ad
m it ted a t will e ith e r i nto t he do u bl e walls of t he cyl in
,
~

d er or i nto t he int eri or of t he cyl i nd er its e lf whil e

, ,

t he hol l o w passage i n t he oth e r axl e co mm u nica t es with

a co nd ensi ng worm G the o u tl et of wh ich H d escends
, , , ,

i nto a cyli ndrical v ess el I i ntend ed to r ece i v e t he con

, ,

d ensed prod ucts co nsisti ng of water a nd volatil e oil

,
.

Wh en t he a pparat us is firs t s et i n m otio n t he p u mp L

begi ns to prod uce a vac uu m d uri ng t he first r e v ol utio ns
of t he cyl i nd er S t ea m b ei ng no w ca u tiou sly ad m itted
.

i nto t he do ubl e wa lls of t he cyli nd er t he w a te r i s ra i s ed ,

to boili ng a t a co m pa rati ve ly low temp eratu r e a nd t he ,

v a pors charg ed with the volatil e oil p a ss ov er i nto t h e

r eceptacl e wh ere th ey s ep arate i nto two l ay ers The
,
.

prod u ct obta i ned by th is process is cl a i med to be eq ual

i n q uality to that Obta ined by m echa n ical m ea ns a nd ,

t he yi e ld nearly do u bl e .

D uri ng the mo nths of N ov em b er to M a rch t he a v erag e

yi eld fro m 1 0 00 l em o ns i n t he fa ctori es of P a l er m o i s
3 2 0 gramme s of oi l i n thos e of M essi na wh e r e a b ett e r ,

ua lity of fr ui t is e m ploy ed t h e y i eld i s ab o u t 4 0 0

q ,

gra mm es T he sa me n um b er of l em o ns yi eld ab ou t
.

1 0 g al lo ns o f j u ice t he coll ectio n of w hi ch is of co u rs e

, , ,

a necess a ry a cco m pa ni m ent of t he m a nufact ure of vola

til e oi l .

P ur e oi l of l e mo n s is a l most colorl ess a nd has t he

odor of t he fr u i t Its sp ecific gra v ity vari es betw ee n
.

a nd i t boi ls a t F a nd is sol ubl e .

,

i n all proportio ns i n ab s ol ute a lcohol a nd gla c ial a c etic

a cid . It co ntai ns ac cordi ng to G Bo u chard at an d J
,
. .
1 22 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M ER Y
m a nu fact u r ed i n D o m i nica , b ut m ost of t he oi l ex
ported fro m th ere i s of a n i n feri or q uality and w as
for merly sol ely u s ed for a d ultera ti ng Oil of l em o ns .

L a t ely it ha s a lso b ee n em ploy ed for scenti ng so a ps a nd

i n t he ma nu fa ct u re of t he co m m o n ess ences a nd p erfumes .

L i ca r i oi l li na loe oi l i s Obt a i ned p a rti a lly i n M e xico

, , ,

a nd partially i n C ay enne fro m t he W ood of the wh ite

,

c edar (bois d e r os e femelle) L i ca r i ca na li It is l i mpid ,

.
,

has a n agreeabl e odor r em i ndi ng one of roses and do es

, ,

n ot b eco m e sol id a t 4 F
°
Its sp ecific gravity i s .

at 5 9 F a nd it boils at
°
.
,
F .

I a rj or a m oi ls — By distilli ng t he l eav es of Or ig a num

JV
ma rj or a na L t he ma i j or a m oil (oleum ma rjor a noe) is ob
,
.

t a ined . It i s y ellowish or green y ellowish bu t beco mes -

,

reddish brow n by a e
-
If badly k ept i t fi nally b eco mes
g .

t h ickly fl u i d a nd sticky so m eti mes d epositi ng a r eddish

-
,

st ea ropt en e The odor of ma rj ora m oil i s l ess agreea bl e

.

th a n that of t he pla nt a nd the t aste p ec uliar bitter

, , ,

cool i ng . T he oi l dissolv es r ea dily in 90 p er c ent .

alcohol and wh en m ix ed wi th eq ual parts of it yi elds a

,

cl ear sol u tio n Its sp ecific gra vity i s

. to It
S h o u ld b e k ept in entir ely fill ed w ell clos ed bottl e s i n a ,
-

shad y place On co m i ng in co ntact w ith air it absorbs

.
,

o xyge n with a vi d ity and for m s a wh i te odorl ess crystal , ,

li ne mass .

F ro m Or ig a nu m vu lg a r e L the ordi nary m arj ora m ,

.
,
°

Oil o leu m or ig a ni vu lg a r i s ) i S obt a i ned ellowis h

( It is y .

or reddish li m pid of sp eci fic gravity to a nd

, ,

has a ca m ph or l ik e odor -
.

Sp a ni sh ma rjor a m (oleum or ig a ni cr eti ci) is obtai ned

by d is tillatio n fro m t he flow eri ng pla nts of s ev era l
vari eti es of marj ora m ( Or cr eti cum Or hir tum Or .
,
.
,
.
 V OL A TI L E OI L S U S ED IN P ER F U M ER Y . 1 23

s myrnceum) It is bro ught i nto co mm erce fro m Tri este

.
,

S myr na S alo n ica a nd oth e r M editerr a nea n s eaports

, ,
.

The oil export ed fro m F ra nce app ears to be d e riv ed

fro m a noth er vari ety of marj ora m ; at l ea st i t sh ows a
di fferent b eh a vior and appro a ch es m or e t he ordi nary
m arj ora m oil The g enu i ne Oil is thickly fl u id g enerally
.
-
,

y el low brow n of sp ecific g rav i tv

-
to has a
stro ng aro matic Odor and prod uces upo n t he to ng ue a
, ,

sharp co nti nued b u r n i ng It dissol v es in eq ual parts of .

90 p er c ent alcohol It is ch i efly ad ulterated with

. .

copaiba oil t he presence of wh ich ca n be r ecogniz ed by

,

t he oil dissolvi ng with gr ea te r di ffic u lty .

The marj ora m oils are b ut l ittl e u s ed for p erfu mi ng

p u rposes .

JlI ig nonette oi l (oleum r es ed ae) T he w ell k now n .

-

m ig no nett e R es ed a od or a tiss i ma yi elds a th ick yel

, ,

lowi sh oil eith er by m acera tio n a nd absorptio n or by

, ,

e xtractio n with e th er or p etrol e u m eth e r It has a p ene -

.

t rat ing d is a gr eea bl e odor w hich can o nly b e r end e red

, ,

a gr eea bl e by greatly dil uti ng the oil I n gath eri ng .

t he fl ow e rs car e m ust be had not to m ix th em with

'

l eav es as thi s spoils th e odor of t he oil

,
.

M yrr h oi l (oleum myr thce) i s Obtai ned fro m the l eav es

of M yr tus communis L It i s y ellowish d extrorotatory
,
.
, ,

of specific gravity at 6 0 8 F and co mmences to °

.
,

boi l at 3 2 0 F A s its pri ncipal co nstit uents Jah ns

°
.
,

has establ ish ed a terp ene boili ng at fro m

to 3 2 0 F a nd t ur n i ng t he pla ne of polari zatio n to
°
.
,

th e r ight a nd ci neol,
wh ich boils at
F . Besid es th es e pri n cipal co nstitu ents th ere seems to
b e pr es ent a v ery s mall q u anti ty of a camp h or correspo nd ,

ing v ery l i k ely to t he for m ula C OI I ,6O M yrtol , wh ich ,

.
1 24 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

w as formerly s uppos ed to exis t in m yrtl e Oil has b een ,

fo u nd to be a m ixt u re of t he d extrorotatory terp ene a nd

of ci neol .

N utmeg oi ls — F ro m m a c e t he fr esh aril of t he ,

n u t meg
( y
M r i s tica fr a r a ns
g H o u tt n at u r a l ord e r , ,

Jlfyr is ti ca cece) ma ce oi l (oleum ma ci d is ) i s Obt a i ned by

, ,

distillatio n I t is s traw y ellow or y ellowish l a t er on

.
-
,

y ello w red dish cl ea r so m e wh a t t h ickly fl u id of a stro ng

-
, ,
-
,

odor r esem bli ng that of m ace a nd a t aste at first m ild , ,

b ut lat e r o n p u ng e nt a nd aro m atic It m ix es cl ear in .

e v e ry proporti o n w i th absol ut e a lcoh ol b ut of 9 0

p er ,

c ent alcohol 5 to 6 vol u m es a re r eq u ir ed for a cl ear

.
,

sol utio n T he sp ecific gra vity of t he Oil v a ri es fro m

.

to With iodi ne it d eto na tes v apors b ei ng ,

e m itted T he oi l obtai ned fro m dri ed m ace h as a l ess

.

agreea bl e odor .

T he oil i s fr eq uently ad ult erat ed with ti nct u re of nut

meg prep a red with absol ute alcoh ol S uch a n a d ultera .

tion as w ell as any co ntent of alcoh ol i s r ecog ni z ed by

, ,

S h a ki ng c ubic c enti meter of t he oi l with a gra i n of

rosan ili ne I n the pr esence of a lcohol t he oi l acq u ires
.

'

a red color atio n whil e p u re oil r e mai ns uncolored

,
.

F ro m t he n ut megs t he s eed of M yr is tica fr a g r a ns

, ,

freed fro m th e s eed co a t a nd aril a volatil e oil -

,

o leu m nu ci s toe cether eum i s a lso Obtai ned by distillatio n

( ) .

It is g enerally y ello w i sh s eldo m colorl ess so me what , ,

th ickly fl uid and has t he odor and ta ste of n ut megs It

-
.

is r eadily sol u bl e in a lcohol a nd eth er a nd of S p eci fic

gra v ity ,
to It co nsi s ts of two oils o ne sp eci ,

fical ly light e r and fl u id a nd t he oth e r h eavy a nd cryst a l

,

li ne On sta nd i ng it d epos its a st earoptene call ed

.
,

myristici n .
126 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

es s bougu et F °
It has a specific gravity of
. at 5 0 .

a nd is d ex trorot a tory .

Whi l e fro m the p eels t he vol atil e oil is but s eldo m

obtai ned by d istillatio n this process is excl us iv ely used ,

for gai n i ng vol a til e oils fro m t he flow ers l eav es and , ,

yo ung bra nch es I n th is co nnectio n two k i nds of vola

.

til e Oil hav e ch iefly to be co nsid ered vi z : or a ng e ower ,

oi l a nd eti t r a i n oil
p g
-
.

Or a ng e flower -
( oil or ner oli oi l
; oleu m flor u m a ur a nti i

ol ner o li ; ol na hoe i s Obtai ned by distillatio n fro m t h e

.
p ) .

flow ers of th e bitter ora nge ; wh il e t he flow ers of the

sw eet orange yi eld the s o call ed ner oli P or tug a l oil wh ich - -
,

is far i nferior to t he oth er .

On t he F ren ch R i vi e ra the ora nge is esp ecially c ul ,

t iv at ed for obtai ni ng blosso m s a nd l eav es for d i stilli ng

p u rpos es A t C a nnes L e C a nnet G ol fe—
. Ju a n Val , , ,

la u ris B iot V ence L e Bar A nti bes L e C ap N ice

, , , , , , ,

a nd M ento ne t he bi tte r or a ng e whos e flow e rs a re

, ,

v ery nu mero us and esp ecially s u itabl e for p erfumery is ,

ch i efly cu lti v ated C annes and L e C a nnet alo ne pos

.

s ess to s u ch tr ees and G olfe Jua n ,

-

a nd Va lla uris T he flow ers harv ested i n

G olfe Jua n a m o u nt to abo ut
-
l bs in L e C annet .
,

to abou t lbs at Ca nnes to abo u t .

,
lbs .
,

a nd i n A ntib es M e nto ne a nd N ice to abo ut

,
lbs ,
.

One ora nge tree yi elds accordi ng to i t s ag e fro m 2 to , ,

1 7 lbs of flow ers

. T he distillatio n of nerol i Oil has
.

also b een lately co mmenced in S icily a nd C alabri a b ut ,

as far as qu al ity is co ncerned t he oil th u s far bro ught ,

i nto co mmerce ca nnot co mp ete with the F rench oil .

Oil of ora ng e flow ers i s at first nearly colorl ess or

straw y ellow b ut b eco mes reddish yello w wh en k ep t for
-
,
-
 VO L A T I L E OI L S USED IN P ER F U M ER Y . 1 27

so me ti me I n a cl ear gl a ss it Op a l iz es bl uish It is
. .

li m pid and has a slightly bitt er taste and a stro ng b ut

v ery d elicio u s odor Its sp ecific grav ity vari es b etw een
.

a nd It is but spari ngly sol ubl e in w a t er ,

but i mparts to t he latter a n agreeabl e odor ; t he sol utio n

i s colored r ed by s ulph uric acid With 1 to 2 p a rts .

of 9 0 p er ce nt alcohol the oil g iv es a cl ear sol utio n

.
,

wh ic h b eco mes t urbid by a furth er additio n of alcohol

a nd aft er sta nd i ng q u i etly a flaky s eparatio n of s t ea rop
, ,

tene is observ ed If not ca refully k ept the Oil b eco mes

.

d a rk er a nd e v en acq u ires a disagreea bl e odor By r ect i .

ficat ion with wat e r Oil th us spoil ed ca n be r estored .

With sodi um th e Oil do es no t e vol ve hydrogen gas ; it

d eto nates w ith iod i ne .

Of t he v a ri o u s oils of ora nge blosso ms occ urri ng i n

”
co mmerce N er ol i p el a le is t he b est .

N erol i oil b e i ng a v ery exp e nsi v e oi l is ex pos ed to

ma ny ad ult eratio ns M ie rz in s k i e v en ass erts that no
.

g enu i ne unad u lterated neroli oi l occ u rs in co mmerc e be ,

ca us e it is a w ell k now n fa ct th a t wh at is sold as g enui ne

-
,

p ure nerol i Oil co nsists o n a n av erag e o f f; genui ne nerol i

,

oil @5 oil of b erga mot a nd p etit grai n oil F urth er

,
1
,
-
.

m ore i t is no s ecr e t th a t b esi d es th e flow e rs of all ki nds

,

Of A u r a nti a cece u nrip e fr uits or fr esh p eels of ri p e fr uits

,

a nd e v en yo u ng sh oots of t he bra nch es a nd l eav es a re

s ubj ected to distillatio n T hi s assertio n p erhaps go es .

too far but nev erth el ess it i s advi sabl e to procu r e t he

,

Oil o nly fro m a thoro ughly r el i a bl e fi rm .

A v ery freq uent ad ulteratio n co nsists in an add iti o n

of p etit grai n oil S uch an additi o n ca n o nly be recog
-
.

nized by t he taste a nd odor F o r th is p urpos e add to .

3 drops of oi l in a s mall bottl e 1 0 gra mmes of distill ed

1 28 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

w a ter a nd a fter shaki ng v igoro u sly test as to t he odor

, , ,

a nd t a st e A ccordi ng to C h e v al ie r po ur 1 or 2 drops
.
,

of t he oi l u po n s ugar a nd stir t he latt er i n wa ter ; i f t he

oil is not ge nu i ne t he w a ter a cq u i res a bitte r taste .

Hage r r eco mm e nds the followi ng t est : M ix 3 drops of

t he oi l in a test t ub e w ith 4 0 to 50 d rops of alcohol
-
ad d ,

after co m pl ete sol u tio n abo ut 4 t he vo l ume of t he sol u ,

ti o n of co ncen trated s ulph u ric acid a nd effect m ixt ure ,

by c a re ful shak i ng P ure oil gi v e s a t u r bid r eddish

.
, ,

dark brow n m ixt u re (w ith old Oil dark brow n) al m ost

-
,

a l l oth e r oils whi ch m a b e s u bstit ut ed gi v e pal e r color e d

y
-
, ,

( r eddish red or och,

er color
) m
,
ixt u r e s ; or i n cas e t he
-
,

genui ne oil i s ad ult era t e d wi t h non genu i ne t he m ix t ure -

,

e xh i bits a co ns id era bl v l ess d a rk color Wh en this t est -

.

has b een s e v era l ti mes ex ec uted w ith g enu i ne oil no ,

roo m for do ubt is l e ft If t he m i x t u re be dil uted wi t h

.

fo u r ti m es i ts vol u m e of wate r i t b eco m es y ellowish a nd ,

m i lky .

The odor of or a ng e flow e rs is a ccordi ng to S o u beira n , ,

d ue to two vol a til e oils of wh ich t he o ne havi ng t he ,

m ost d elicio us odor i s sol u bl e i n water T he oth e r .

vol a ti l e oil of wh ich t he neroli Oil of co m merce chi efly

,

co nsi sts is spa ri ngly sol u bl e i n w at er a nd do es not pos

, ,

s ess s uch a d elicio u s odor Th i s is t he r easo n why good .

ora nge fl o w er w a ter c a nnot be prepar ed by sat ura t i ng

-

water with neroli oil T he genu i ne ora nge fl ow e r w a ter

.
-

is obta i ned a s a by prod uct i n distilli ng t he oil

-
.

N erol i Oil is m uc h u s e d for t he fi ner p erfumes it b e i ng ,

esp ecially a n ec essary cons t it ut e nt of ea u d e Colog ne It .

has to be ca re fully protected fro m ai r a nd light F o r .

p erfum i ng p u rposes it i s o nly s uffici ently rip e after

havi ng b een stor ed for at l ea st one y ear If ho we v e r .
, ,
1 30 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUMERY .

e v er be em ploy ed o nly for v ery fine exp ensiv e p er fu

,

m ery si nce on acco u nt of t he v ery slight yi eld fro m t he

,

root (fro m 1 000 parts to 2 part of Oil) its price i s 7 ,

v e ry high g enera lly e xc eedi ng th a t of ros e oi l

,
.

A n ad mixt u re of o t h er vol a til e oils of l ess v a l ue .

wo uld r end er t he Oil fl u id at the ordi nary t em p eratu re .

P a tchou l o il
i — By th e na me of p a tcho uli a re k no w n
.
'

a ccordi ng to L VVr ay Jr t he l eav es of P og os temon

.
,
.
,

a tcho uli P ellet na t u ra l ord e r L a bi a tce i ndig en o u s to

p , , ,

t he E ast I nd i e s a nd k n ow n a nd u s ed for c en t u ri es in
,

t he v a rio u s r egio n s of C h i na A ss a m a nd t he M a l ay a n , ,

Isl a nds M ost of t he p atcho ul i co mes fro m t he East

.

I ndi es Before export a tio n i t is sorted i nto t hree q uali

.

ti es : 1 S elected co nsisti ng of l ea v es o nly 2 Ill i zr ed

.
,
. .
,

l ea v es w i th slight p ed u ncl es a nd few stems 3 S ta lky . .

lea ves T he b est q u ali t y occ urs s eldo m in co mm erc e si nc e

.

th e picki ng of t he l ea v es d o es no t co v e r t he exp ens e .

A ccordi ng to V Vr a y t he l eav es a re i ntent io nally m ix ed

,

wit h t hose of t he r uleu (oci mum ba s i licum an h e rb ,

i ndig eno u s t o t he M al aya n Isla nds The l eav e s of t he .

l a tte r a re bro ad er th an t hos e of p og os temon p a tchou li ,

a nd t he stalks thi nne r a nd ro u nd S eed caps u l es ar e .

-

also freq uently fo und a m o ng t he l eav es tho ugh p atch ,

o ul i s eldo m flow ers a nd bears s eeds .

I n E urop e patcho u l i has b een a n articl e of co mm erce

,

si nc e 1 8 4 1 I n t he Ori ent it is h ighly e steemed as a

.

p erfu me T he A r a bs ev en ascri be remedial prop erti es

.

to i t a nd i t i s c u sto ma ry with th em to fill th ei r pillows

,

with the l ea v es to protect th em fro m i nfect io n a nd pro

lo ng t h ei r l iv es .

The p ec u liar p enetr a t i ng tho ugh no t e xactly agr ee

, ,

a bl e odor of p a tcho uli l ea v es is d ue to a volatil e oil of

, , ,
 V OL A T I L E OI L S USED IN P ER F U M ER Y . 131

wh ich th ey co ntai n to 2 p er cent I n t he Ori ent .

t his oil has for ma ny y ears b een obta i ned by distillati o n .

'

I n t he P ena ng mark e t t w o ki nds of o il one g r een ,

a nd t he oth e r g old br own a re disti ng u ish ed

-
,
Tho ugh .

both a re sold at t he sa me price th ere is a greate r d e ,

ma nd for t he gr een oi l A ccord ing to t he stat ements

.

of the di still ers t he brow n Oil i s d eri v ed fro m the l eav es

,

of old pla nts a nd t he green oil fro m the l eav es of yo ung

pla nts It wo uld s eem h ow e v er that t he color is d e
.
, ,

p end ent on t he soil upo n which t he plants a re grow n as ,

w ell as u po n atm osph e ric i nfl uenc es Wh en r uk u is .

distill ed wit h patcho ul i l eav es t he o il i s y el lo w a nd

,

thi ckly fl u id
-
.

I n G er ma ny the oil i s no w distill ed fro m i m ported

,

l eav es It i s t h ickly fl uid of a brow n color a nd i n an

.
-
, , ,

u ndil u t ed st a t e poss ess es a disagreeabl e al most m usty

, ,

odor How e v er wh en s uffi ci ently dil ut ed a nd s uita bly

.
,

m i x ed with oth er volatil e oils the odor i s far m or e ,

agreeabl e a nd for th is reaso n i t has for so me ti m e

,

play ed a n i m porta nt part in t he ma nu factu r e of p er

fu mery .It has the a dva ntag e of be i ng v ery yi eldi ng
a nd lasti ng b ut o n t he oth er ha nd poss ess es t he d isad
, , ,

va nta g e o f not co m bi ni ng with oth er p erfu mes so th a t ,

i ts odor is alw ays p erceptibl e It sho uld always be .

u s ed i n v ery s m all q ua nti ti es or m uch dil ut ed .

I n co mmerc e P e na ng oil a nd F r e nch oil a re disti n

uis hed t he first ha v i ng a S p eci fic gravity of n d
g , a

t he latt er of Wh en k ept for a ny l ength of ti me

t he oi l d eposits p a tcho u l i ca m phor i n pris
-

m atic crystals of sp ecific gravity a nd melti ng at

1 2 7 to 1 2 9 F
°
Th ese crysta ls h av e a p ec ul i a r v e ry
.
,

lasti ng odor .
 132 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M E R Y .

P atch o ul i oil is sol ubl e in eq ual parts of 9 0 p er ce nt .

alcohol the co ntra ry i ndicati ng th a t it is not p ure It

,
.

i s ch i efly a d ulte rat e d with cedar oil .

P epp er mint oi l — The M entha fa mily fur n ish es co m

m erc e with thr ee oils di fferi ng ess entially fro m each
oth er—o il of cur led mint p epp er mint oil a nd p oley oil
, ,
.

Oi l of cur led mi nt (oleum menthoe cr i sp ce) i s s eparated

by distillatio n with w a te r fro m t he l eav es of M entha
cr is a I / inn
p ,
It is .li m pid y ellowish so m eti mes gr een
, ,

is h i n ti m e it b eco mes d a rk er and more th ickly fl uid -

.

Its speci fic gravity vari es betw een and It

h as a stro ng Odor of cu rl ed mi nt and a p ung ent so me ,

w hat cool i ng sligh tly bitt erish ta st e

,
It I S sol ubl e i n.

all proportio ns i n 90 per cent alcohol I n co mme rce a

. .

disti n ctio n i s mad e b etwee n G er man a nd A merica n oil

of c url ed m i nt t he latter generally co ntai ni ng oil of
,

t u rp enti ne and oil of sassafras Odor taste a nd the .

, ,

alcohol test s uffice for t he d eter m i nat io n of t he q uality

Of t he Oil .

O il Ofcu rl ed mi nt co ntai ns a t erp ene C ,0H,6 and a , ,

body i so meric with carvol the carvol of c ur l ed m int

, ,

C wH M O I ts S p eci fic gravity boili ng poi nt a nd ch em i

.
,

cal prop erti es are the sa me as thos e of the ca rvol o f ca ra

way oi l but it d iffers fro m it by its odor and tu rni ng t he
,

plane of polari zatio n to the Opposite d irection I n con .

j uncti o n wi t h oth er volatil e oils oi l of c url ey m i nt i s

,

so meti mes used for p erfu ming soaps .

P epp er mint oil (oleum menthce p ip er i toe) is obtai ned

fro m t he fresh flow eri ng p epp er m i nt M entha p ip er i ta , ,

nat u ral ord e r L a bi a toe I n co mmerce Ger m a n E nglish

.
, , ,

A meri ca n a nd Japa nese p epp erm i nt o ils a re d isti n

ui shed A s r egard s fineness , t h e Ger m a n oil is i nfe rior
g .
1 34 MANUFACT URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

drops of t he Oil 2 5 to 3 0 drops of p u r e white concen

,

t ra t ed s ulph uric acid A mer i ca n oi l of p epp er mi nt b ecomes

,

h ea ted and emits vapors t he m i x tu re acq u iri ng a d a rk

,

brow n ish red coloratio n A fter m ixi ng with 8 to 1 0.

c u bic c enti met ers of 90 p er c en t alcohol the fl u id .

,

b eco mes tu rbid p al e y ellowish brow n or r eddish brow n

, , ,

a nd on boil i ng cl ear pal e brow n Wh en m ix ed with .

s ulph u ric acid Ger ma n oi l of p epp er mint b eco m es h eat ed

,

witho ut em itti ng v ap ors beco mes y ello wi sh r ed not , ,

v ery d a rk and t urbi d A fter dil uti ng with alcoho l t he

,
.
,

fl u id b eco mes t u rbid a nd y ellowish r ed a nd o n boili ng ,

so m ewh at m or e tra nsparent a nd c u rrant r ed E ng lis h -

.

o i l of er mi nt tr ea t e d i n t h sa m m n n r t h
p pp
e e e a e as e

others with sulph u ri c aci d b eco m es v ery slightly h eat ed

witho ut a ny em issio n of vapor A fter dil u ting w ith .

a lcoh ol it b eco me s cl ear a nd raspb e rry r ed

,
.

A s ad ult era nts of p epp e r m i n t oil a re m en tio ned :

fat oils alcohol Oil of t u rp enti ne cop a iba oil m ustard
, , , ,

oi l and gi nger oil The m ost fr eq uent ad ult eratio n is

,
.

an ad m i xt u re of oil of t u rp en ti ne It i s r ecog n iz ed by .

t he oil not dissolvi ng cl ear i n eq u al parts of 9 0 p er

c ent alcoh ol as is the case w ith t he p ure prod uct To
.
,
.

d etect t he pr esence of copaiba oil mix 5 drops of the ,

Oil to b e t est ed wi th 1 5 to 2 0 d rops of fum i ng n itri c

acid shak e a nd allow it to sta n d for 1 to 2 ho u rs

,
.

A ft er th i s ti me t he 0 i portio n sho u ld b e ne ith er entirely

no r partially co ng eal ed b ut rem ai n fl u id
,
To d etec t .

traces of m ustard oil bri ng 1 0 drops of t he oil i nto a

,

wid e r eagent glass th en add 3 to 4 cu bic centi m eters

,

of absol ute alcoh ol 2 to 3 drops of si lv er nitrate sol u

,

tio n and 1 2 to 1 5 drops of a mmo nia The mi xt u re is .

cl ear and colorl ess and re mai ns so on h eati ng to boil ing

,
.
 V OL A T I L E OI L S USED IN P E R FU M E R Y . 135

I II th e pres enc e of m usta rd oi l t u rbidity a nd bl a ck en i ng

t a k e pl a ce i n co ns eq uence of t he for matio n of sil v er
s ulph id e A fte r boili ng allow t he fl u id to stand q ui etly
.
,

for 2 or 3 ho urs If i t th en sh o w s a grayis h t urbidity

.

th e Oil i s ad ul te rat ed with a no t h e r vo l a til e oi l .

I nstea d of p u re A merica n oil of p epp er m i nt a pro ,

d uct co m po u nd ed w ith c a m phor oil a nd m ostly fr eed ,

fro m m enthol is s aid freq u ently to Occ u r i n co mmerc e

,
.

A ccord i ng to E C F ed ere r th is is r ecog niz ed by dis

. .
,

solvi ng one vol ume of oil of p epp er m i nt i n 2 vol u mes

of 9 4 per ce nt a lcohol addi ng wate r a nd sh a ki ng P u re
.
,
.

p epp er m i n t oil i s th en s eparat ed wi t h a c ertai n portio n of

t he alcohol F o r e xa mpl e m i x 1 0 c u bic c e nti m et e rs of o i l
.
, .

of p epp e r m i nt in a gra d uated cyli nd e r of 4 5 to 5 0 c u bi c

centi meters ca p a city with 2 0 c u bic c enti met ers of 9 4 p er
’

c ent alcohol th e n a dd 1 0 c u bic ce nti meters of w a ter of

.
,

5 0 F a nd sh a k e
°
. A fter a llo w i ng t he m i xt u re to st a nd
.

q u i etly two lay e rs are for med t he u p per o ne of wh ich i f

, , ,

t he Oil is p u re will a mo u nt to 1 4 c u bic c enti mete rs b ut

, ,

o nly t o c ubic c ent imeters i f t he oi l is freed fro m

m enth ol a nd co m po und ed with ca mphor Oil A larg e r .

or s mall er additio n of wa t er to the a lcoh olic m ixt ure i s

wi tho ut i nfl uence u po n t he h eight of the u pp er lay e r
s epara ted .

I n p e rfu mery p epp er m i nt oi l s er v es chi efly for aro m a

t izi ng d entifri c es e tc It sho uld be k ept in w ell clos ed
,
.
-

bottl es i n a sh ady p l ace ; a n a dditi o n of p er c ent of .

alcohol h elps to preserv e t he oil for a lo ng ti me .

P oley oil (oleum menthoe p uleg i i) — I n S o u th er n F ra nce .

a nd S pai n thi s oi l i s obt a i ned by disti llatio n fro m t he

l eav es of JV I entha p u leg i um It has a n odor r esem bli ng .

that of p epp er mi nt is at firs t colorl ess b ut soo n b eco mes

, ,
1 36 M ANUFAC T URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

y ellow has a sp ecific gr a vi ty of

,
boils a t
to F a nd co nta i ns ne ith e r me nth ol no r carvol
.
,
.

I t i s u s ed for p erfu m i ng h e rb soaps .

P i mento o il or o il of a llsp ice (oleum p i menta ) fro m the

,

br uis ed fr u it of E ug eni a p imenta allspice nat ura l ord e r , ,

M yr ta ceoe T he oil is pal e y el lo w b eco mi ng r eddish

.
,

b ro w n by age ; it has a v ery p u ng ent t a ste a nd i ntens e

e dor v ery m uch r es em bli ng th a t of cl o v es
,
It i s h ea vi er .

th a n wa t er its sp eci fic gr a v ity b e i ng fro m

,
to
It m i x es w ith glaci al acetic a cid in all proportio ns Wh en .

treat ed wi t h n itric aci d p u r e pi me nto oi l ass umes a red

,

c o lor wi th stro ng effe rv escence

,
.

R os e oi l or a tta r of r os es (oleum r os oe) co m es a l m ost .

e xcl usi v ely fro m B ulgari a wh e r e i t is obt a i ned by di s

,

t ill at io n with w a t e r fro m t he flow ers of R os a d a ma s cena

The s mall q u a ntiti es of a n excell ent q u a lity of ros e oi l

prepar ed i n S o uth er n F r a nc e fro m R os a p r ovi nci a lis
r e mai n i n the co unt r v of th ei r prod uctio n a nd do not
e v en cov e r t he loca l d e ma nd T he s mall prod uctio ns Of
.

P e rsi a a nd I ndia need also not be t ak en into co nsid e ra

t io n . I n T un is wh e r e for m erly m u ch ros e w a te r was
,

prep a r ed fro m R os a ca ni na a nd also rose oi l of a v ery

fi ne q ua lity t he di sti ll a ti o n of ros es h a s a cco r d ip g to
, ,

C h ri sto C hri sto ff b een ent irel v ab a ndo ned g e ra n i u m oi l

, ,

o nly b ei ng now prod uc ed I n t he s u mme r of 1 8 8 4 .

,

S ch i m mel C o of L eip z ic G er m a ny mad e t he ex

.
, , ,

er i ment t o obt a i n oil o n a larg e sca l e fro m i ndig e no u s

p
ros es The res ul t w a s v ery s a tisfactory 2 00 0 lbs of
.
,
.

ros e l ea v es yi eldi ng a bo u t 1 l b of oi l the ex traord i .

,

nari ly a gr eea bl e odor of whi ch w a s so s up e r i or to th at

of t he T u rk ish oil th a t notwi th sta ndi ng the high price

,

do ubl e t hat of T urki sh oil— i t fo und r eady p urch as ers .

1 38 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

t he top is ski mmed off It may be s u ppos ed th a t o n an .

av er ag e 6 6 00 lbs of ros es a re r eq u i red to obtai n

.

l bs of oil and th a t th es e 6 6 00 l bs of ros es correspo nd

.
,
.

to a n area of 1 h ecta re acres) pla nted with ros e

b ush es .

P u re car e fully distill e d ros e oil is at first colorl ess

,
-
,

b ut soo n t ur ns y ellowish *
Its S p eci fi c gravi ty is be .

tween a nd It co nsists of a liq uid oi l a nd

a stearoptene the co ntent of t he latter v aryi ng v ery
,

m u ch . It i s a p u re hydroca rbo n odorl ess of sp ecific , ,

gra v ity ,
to a nd distils at 5 7 2 F Hence °
.

i t i s lighter th a n the el aeoptene on wh ich alo ne the odor

of t he ros e oil is d ep end ent R ose oil g enerally congeal s .

b etw ee n 5 0 a nd 60 F tho ugh so meti mes at a high er

° °
.
,

or low er d egree accordi ng to its co ntent of stearoptene

,
.

Whil e so me oils r eq ui re t he cold of wi nter for co ng eali ng ,

oth ers a re i n t he h ea t of s um mer e ith er e ntirely solid or ,

form a fl uid fill ed with many crys tals The odor of .

rose oi l is p ec uliarly h o ney li k e a nd too i ntense to be -

,

agreeabl e its entire d elicio u s ness b e i ng o nly d ev elop ed

,

by stro ng di l utio n be i t by dissolvi ng in wate r or

,

alcohol or by distri b ution u pon larg e q u a ntiti es of rigid

,

bodi es fats soaps etc I n a lcohol it dissolv es wi th

, , ,
.

greater di ffi cu lty th a n all oth e r volatil e Oils 1 part of it ,

r eq u i ri ng for sol utio n 1 40 to 1 6 0 p a rts of alcoh ol of

specific gravi ty .

The large r or s ma ll e r co nt e nt of st earopt ene i n ros e

oil s eems to be d ep end e nt on cli matic co ndi tio ns i t ,

havi ng been r emark ed that t he qu a ntity is t he greater

Th is , h ow e ver , ap p l ies o nl y t o B ul g a r i a n oi l ; Fr e nch and

Sa x on ros e o i l s h a ve a g r ee ni s h col or .
 V OL A TI L E OI L S USED IN P ER F U M ER Y 139

th e low er t he te mp eratu re of the r egio n The oil fro m .

t he cold est a nd h ighest r egio ns of t he Balka n i s ri ch er

i n st ea ropt ene tha n that fro m t he low er a nd war me r
r egio ns .

The g enui neness of ros e Oil i s g enerally j udg ed by its

Odor its capaci ty of co ng ea li ng a nd t he m a nner of i ts
, ,

crystall iza ti o n T he odor is by al l m ea ns the m os t re

.

l i a b le criteri o n b ut r eq u i res m uch exp eri ence a nd esp e

, ,

cial l r eliabl p u r sta ndard sa m pl s f or co m pariso n

y e e e .

The capaci ty of co ng eal i ng at c ertai n co nditio ns of t em

p e ra t ure is to be s u re also a req u irem ent of g en u i ne
, , ,

ros e oil b ut as previo usly m enti o ned th i s prop erty

, , ,

vari es v ery mu ch a nd i s s ubj ect to di fferent i nfl uences so

, ,

th a t a fix ed sta nd a rd at wh ich p u r e ros e oi l m ust co ng eal

ca nnot be est a blish ed A tte ntio n m u st h ow e ver be.
, ,

call ed to the fact tha t t he q uality of a ros e oil does b v

no mea ns ris e with its gr eat er capacity to co ng ea l si nc e ,

o nly t he liq u id oxyg inated portio n possess es Odor .

S chi m me l CO bri ng at pres ent i nto co mme rce a

.

l iq ui d ro se Oil freed fro m st earopt ene wh ich ca n be

highly reco m mend ed for fi ne r a lcoh oli c p erfum es It .

remai ns fl u id at 3 2 F b ut i n a cold m ixt u re co ng ea l s

°
.
,

t o a g elati no u s m ass a nd h enc e i s not absol u t el y free

,

fro m stearop te ne It has a n extr emely fine a nd pow e r

.

ful Od or a nd wh en dissolv ed i n alcohol do es not gi v e

,

t he d is ag r eea bl e cryst a lli ne s epar a tio ns of t he ordi nary

ros e oil wh ich prod uce a di st u rbi ng effect esp ecially in

, ,

t he pr eparatio n of extracts .

F o r t he i ns ul a ti o n a nd d et er m i nati o n of t he s t ea rOp
tene in rose oil S ch i m mel , CO proceed as follows .

Hea t 5 0 gra mm es of oil togeth er w ith 5 00 gr a mmes of

7 5 per c ent alcohol to fro m 1 5 8 to 1 7 6 F
. I n cool ° °
.
1 40 MANUFACT UR E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

i ng , t he stea roptene s ep a ra t es nearly q uantitati vely .

S ep a rate it fro m t he fl u id trea t i t a gai n i n t he sa me

,

m a nne r wi t h 2 0 0 gra mmes of 7 5 p er c en t alcohol a nd .

,

rep eat t he Op era tio n u ntil t he st ea roptene i s enti rely free

fro m odor T w o treat m ents of the cr ud e st ea ropt ene
.

a re g e n era l ly s uffici ent . I n th is ma nne r S ch i mmel

C o obtai ned fro m 1 8 8 7 G er m a n rose oil 3 2 % p er ce nt
. .

stearopt ene fro m 1 8 88 G er m an ros e oil 3 4 p er c ent

, .
,

fro m 1 8 8 7 T u rkish ros e oil 1 2 to 1 3 p er c ent a nd fro m .

,

1 8 8 8 T urk ish ros e oil 1 4 p e r ce nt .

It is e v id e nt that s uch a v al uabl e prod uct as ros e oi l

i s m uch s ubj ect ed to ad ulte rat io n it b ei ng e v en s a id ,

that oi ls co ntai ni ng sca rcely 1 0 p er cent of g enu i ne ros e .

oil occ u r i n the m a rk et The chi ef a d ultera nt u sed by

.

t he B u l ga r l a ns I s t he s o ca ll ed g era n i u m oil b ut a ct u ally

-
,

gi ng er gra ss oil d eri v ed fro m I ndia which is bro ught

-
,

by way of A rabi a to C o nsta nti nopl e and prep a r ed for t he ,

p urpos e of a d ulterati ng ros e oi l by trea tment with l em o n

j u i ce a nd bl ea ch i ng i n t he s un The S ophi s tica tio n is
.

g ene rally e ffected by S pri nkli ng the gi nger grass Oil -

th u s prep a r ed upo n t he ros e l ea v es b efore distilli ng .

T he g e neral charact e rs of th i s oil a re so si m ilar to thos e

of ros e oil that d etect io n wh en t he a d ulteratio n is k ept
,

withi n c ertai n l i m its is v ery d i ffic ult so th at d uri ng the

, ,

distilli ng ti me larg e b uy ers a nd exporters of ros e oil a re

forc ed to pay b esid es th ei r oth er offi ce rs i n K az anl ik
, ,

co nfid en tia l na tiv e ag ents who co nsta ntly m ov e aro und

i n t he distilli ng r egi o ns a nd r eport wh e re distillatio n h as
b een carri ed on ho nestly a nd wh ere the gi nger gra ss Oil
,
-

bottl e has b een seen H ow e v e r t he pr epared g mgcr

.
,

grass Oil i s freq uently no t e v en d istill ed with t he rose

l eav es b ut si mply m ix ed wi th t he finish ed ros e oil
, .
1 42 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

tio n of g era ni um oil b e r ed uced to fro m 6 3 5 to °

F t h us k eepi ng with i n t he l i mits p er m itt ed

.
,
.

N u mero u s a tte m pts hav e b een m ad e to find a rapid

a nd s u r e w ay for t he d et ectio n of g e ra n i u m oil i n ros e

oil b ut th u s far in v a i n A ttentio n m ust also be draw n

,
.

to t he fa ct th a t t he ad ultera nt is freq uently i t s elf ad ul

t er a t ed wit h oil of t u rp e nti ne b e for e b ei ng sold to t he
d istill ers of rose oil .

B esid es t he abov e m-
e n n n —
tio ed gi g er gra ss oil t he ,

act ua l g er a ni u m oils fro m P ela rg onium od or a tis s i mu m ,

a nd P . r os eum as w e ll as ros e w ood oil

,
sa nd a l wood
- -
,

oil s per m aceti p ara ffi ne a nd fat oi ls hav e b een men

, , ,

t io ned a s ad ultera nts of ros e Oil The g er a ni u m oils

.

hav ing a by odor of l emo n Oil by wh ich th e ir pr esence

-
,

co uld be r eadily d etected a re no t s ui tabl e for the p u rpos e .

N e ith e r ca n ros e wood or s a nd a l wood oils b e u s ed or

- -
,

a t l east s u ch ad ulteratio n wo uld be so cl um sy as to b e

i mmediately r ecog niz ed A tte mpts to a d ult erat e ros e

.

Oil by t h e additio n of a fa t crystallizabl e body tog eth e r

wi th a noth er vol atil e oi l fa il on acco unt of th e ch ara cter

i s t ic prop erti es of ros e Oi l stearopte ne which r es embl es no ,

oth e r body at present k now n Whi l e rose o il s tea rop

.

tene is l ighter tha n el a p tene a nd e ntir ely volatil e sp er ,

m acet i poss ess es ess enti a lly di ffer ent q ualiti es It do es .

n o t for m s uch lo ng a nd sp ecifically light crys t als as

ros e oi l stearoptene ; h ence it r eadily separates on t he

botto m a nd o n sh ak i ng e xh ibits a p eculiar i rid escent
loa my for mati o n F urth er m or e it m elts at 1 2 2 F
.
°
.
,

a nd not b e i ng volatil e l eav e s o n h eati ng a grea sy st a i n

, , ,

u po n pap e r wh i l e t he st earopt e ne m elts a t 95 F a nd °

, .
,

o n h eati ng ,
volatili z es co m pl etely witho ut l eav mg a
greasy stai n behi nd .
 V OL A TI L E OI L S USED IN P ERFUMERY 1 43

If a rose oi l i s to be test ed expose th e bottl e co nta i n

,

i ng t he Oil to a m od erat e h ea t u n til t he co nt ent s a r e en

t irel y liq u id ; th e n g ently shak e t he bottl e i n or d er to
bri ng abo u t a n i nti mat e m ixt u re Of ela p tene a nd stea r
O t ene N o w po u r so me of t h e oil i nto a cyl i ndric a l
p .

gl a ss fl a sk of 2 0 to 4 0 c ubic c enti meters capaci ty a nd ’

a l low it to co ng eal ; th en whi l e h eati ng i n t he h a nd

, ,

Obs e rv e how t he rigid portio ns act i n liq ue fyi ng Th es e .

rigid crysta lli ne portio ns sho uld be tra nsparently cl ear

,

a nd ,
b ei ng lighter tha n t he fl uid porti o n float whil e , ,

l iq uefyi ng i n t he upp er lay er of t he fl u id He nce i f

,
.
,

n e w t he fl uid b e agai n allow ed to co ng ea l t he crys t als ,

sho uld app ear with i n t he u pp er h a l f of t he oi l T he .

a bov e m e ntio ned vol a til e oils p a rti a lly lack t he prop
-

e rt y of s ep a ra ti ng a st earopt e ne i n cryst a ls a t fro m

F a nd tho ugh th ey m a h a v e a ros e

° °
338 t o 50 .
, y
Odor i t i s n ot t he m ild fragra nt odor of g enu i n e ros e
, ,

oil To r ecog ni ze t he latte r G ui bo urt mak es u s e of

.
,

p ure co ncentrated s ulph uri c a cid S ti r t og eth er i n a .

w a tch cryst a l a n eq ual nu m b er of drops of t he oi l a nd

-

of t he acid ; p ure rose oil pr eserv e s i ts ch a ract eristi c

odor whil e t he foreig n o ils exhibit a d isagr eeabl e odor
,

e v e n wh en m i x ed with g enu i ne ros e oi l .

S ch i m mel C O giv e a method for a n approxi m at e

.

q ua nti ta tiv e d eter m i natio n of sp ermaceti i n ros e oil

B oi l 3 to 5 gra mmes of st ea ropt ene s epara ted i n t he ,

ma nne r abov e gi v en with 2 0 to 2 5 gra mmes of 5 p er

,

cent alcoholic potash l ye for 5 to 6 ho u rs ; th en evap o

.

rate t he a lcoh ol a nd co mpo und t he r esid ue with h ot

wa ter I n cooli ng t he gr ea t er portio n of t he s tearop
.
,

t ene separates i n a crystalli ne m ass upo n t he s urface .

N o w po u r o ff t he a lkali ne fl u id wash t he st earopt ene ,

1 44 MANUFACT URE OF P ER F U M ER Y
w i th col d w ater th en melt i t agai n in hot w at e r allo w
, ,

i t to cool po u r o ff t he wate r a nd r ep ea t the s a me op era

, ,

tio ns u nti l t he w as h wa t e r i s neutral The co mbi ned

-
.

aq ueo us fl u i d s a re twice shak en wit h eth er to r emov e a ny

stearoptene s usp end ed in th em T he a lcoholic l ye s ep a .

ra ted fro m t he eth e r is a cid ul at ed w ith dil ute s ulph u ric

acid a nd aga i n e xtract ed with eth er A fter e v a pora .

ti o n no r esid ue (fa tty aci d s ) sho uld r em a i n To co ntrol .

t he e xp eri m en t w eigh t he r egai ned stearopt e ne dri ed a t

°
1 9 4 F addi ng of co u rs e th e eth er u s e d for e xtracti ng
, ,

t he a l kal i ne fl uid Th ere will be a s ma l l loss si nce

.
,

s mall q u a ntiti es of stearoptene alw ays ev a porate i n

d ryi ng .

R os ema r y oi l (oleum r os ema ri ni or ol a nthos) i s obtai ned .

i n S o uth er n E urop e esp ecially in S o u th ern F r a nc e D al

, ,

m ati a a nd N orth er n Italy by distillatio n fro m the fl o w

,

e r ing ros e m ar y R osma r i nus oflici na lis nat ural ord er

, ,

L a bi a toe . It i s wh en fresh li m pid colorl ess or y ellow

, , , ,

i s h of a p e netra t i ng ca m ph or lik e odor a nd tast e a nd

, ,
-
,

S p eci fi c gr a vi ty to By age i t b eco mes

d a rk e r a nd th ickly — fl u id T he F r ench ros ema ry o i l is
.

t he b est a nd m ost exp ens iv e It i s d isti ng u ish ed fro m

.

t he I t a l ia n oi l by its m u ch m or e pl easa nt o d or P ur e .

F r ench ros ema ry oil dissol v es i n a n eq ual p a rt of 90

er c e nt a lcohol wh il e t he It a lia n prod uct r eq u i r es
p .
,

2 to 3 parts . T he ch eap er ros em ar y o i ls a r e g ene ra lly

a d ult erated with oil of t u rp enti ne wh ich i s r e cog ni z ed ,

by the oil not dissol v i ng i n t he abov e m entio ne d pro -

portio n in a lcohol as w ell as by the iodi ne t est R os e

,
.

m ary Oil do es not d eto nate with i odi ne b ut si mply di s ,

sol v es with h eati ng and p erhaps the em issio n of v a pors .

1 46 MANUFACT URE OF PERFUME R Y .

y ellow and r ed Its ta ste i s p u ng ent and aro m at ic

.
,

b ei ng agreeabl e to m ost p erso ns It has a pl easa nt .

odor r es em bl i ng th a t of fennel a nd i s h ea vi er th an ,

w ater i ts sp ecific gravi ty bei ng

,
to It i s
sol ubl e in 4 to 5 parts of alcohol of sp ecific gra v ity ,

a nd co n sists of a m ixt ur e of vari o u s Oils a m o ng wh ic h

,

i s s a fre ne a d e xtroro t a tory t e rp ene wh ich boils

b etw ee n 3 1 1 a nd °
F By stro ngly cooli ng i n a
.

cold m ixt ure safrol a crystal lizi ng stearop tene of t he

, ,

co mpositio n i s s ep a rat ed S a frol is t he ch i ef

.

co nstituent of s assa fra s oil It is ob tai ned in ab u nd ance

.

by cool ing at a t em p erat ur e of 1 3 F t he porti o n

,
°

boili ng b etw een a nd 4 5 5 F It melts at 4 6 4

°
.
°

F a nd at a m ed ium t em p e ra t u r e for m s a colorl ess cl ear

.
,

oi l of p ung ent t a ste ch a ra ct eri stic odor a nd sp ecific

, ,

grav i ty Wh en t he crystals hav e b een h ea ted t o

a bov e 1 5 8
°
F th ey co ng ea l o nly aft er r em ai ni ng for
w eeks at a t em p erat ur e b el ow 3 2 F but o n b ei ng °
.
,

m elted at 6 8 F the fl u id ma ss agai n co ng eals r eadily

°
.
,

o n cool i ng . The safrol i s neu tral optically i na ctiv e , ,

bo ils at F a nd is sol ubl e i n alcohol a nd eth er

.
,
.

S a ssafras oil i s s a id to b e fr eq u ently ad ult era t ed with

oil of t u rp enti ne wh ich I s ho w e v e r r eadily d et ected by
, , ,

t h e energ e tic r ea ctio n a nd by distilli ng a sa m pl e of t he

s usp ected oil .

S a frol i s v ery s u itabl e for p e rfum i ng ordi nary so aps .

It has in a still high er d egree tha n c a m phor Oil t he

prop erty of r em ov ing t he disagreeabl e odor of so m e fat s ,

wh i l e at the s a m e ti m e i t i mparts to the soaps a n

aro matic refr eshi ng odor A s a r ul e 8 to 1 1 ozs are
,
. .

u s ed for 2 2 0 lbs of soap ; b u t i f it shal l at t he sa m e

.

ti me s erv e for removi ng t he disagreeabl e odor of l o w

 V OL A TI L E OI L S USED IN P ER FU M ER Y . 14 7

q ual ity fats esp ecially th os e extracted with bis ul ph id e

,

of carbo n or b enz i ne i t is advi sabl e to t ak e

,
lbs or .
,

still b ette r lbs for 2 2 0 lbs of so a p I n th is case t he

,
. . .

safrol sho u ld be a dd ed to the fa t aft er melti ng a nd b efore

s a on ifica t ion a nd thoro ughly m ix e d with i t by sti rri ng
p .

A n ex c ell en t p e rfume for ordi nary so a ps i s a m ixt u re of

s a frol a nd ci tro nella oil i t b ei ng a t a ny rat e preferabl e
,

to oi l of m i rba ne .

The sta nd ard of v a l ue for safrol is its S p eci fic gravi ty ,

which sho uld not be b elow at 5 9 F S peci fically °

.

lighter k i nds co nta i n ca mph or Oil a nd oth er i mp uriti es .

Thyme oi l is ob ta i ned i n S o u th er n F ra nce a nd S pai n

by distillatio n fro m t he floweri ng th y me Thymus vul ,

red thy m e Oi l
g a r i s,
L It i s
. gr ee n ish y e llow to r e d ( -
,

o leu m th mi r u br um u t by r e c t i fica tio n b e co mes color

y ) b ,

l ess (white thy me Oil oleum thymi a lbum) B oth oil s,

.

a re q u i te li m pid a nd poss ess a stro ng thy me odor T he .

sp ecific gravity of t he r ed oil i s to a nd that

of t he r ectifi ed oil to The oil pre pared fro m

t h e fr esh pla nt sh ows a s a r ul e a h igh er sp ecific gr a vity
, ,

tha n th a t fro m t he dri ed pl a nt Thy me oil co nsists .

e ss en tially of thy mene b esid es so m e cy mene

( w u)
C H a nd thy m ol C
( w H O) t he latt e r for
M
m i ng a,
n

ess ential co ns t i t ut ent of t he oil O ils fro m wh ich t he .

th y m ol has been w ithdraw n occ ur i n co mme rc e P ur e .

thy me oil dissolv es cl ear in e v ery proportio n in 9 0 p er

c ent a lcohol ; if su c h i s not t he cas e ad ulterat io n w it h
.
,

oil of t urp e nti ne i s probabl e .

T he oi l distill ed fro m t he field thy m e Thymus s erp yl ,

lum L i s li mpid y ellowi sh to gold y el lo w a nd of S p e

,
.
, , ,

cific gr a vity to Ol d Oil i s red or brow n a nd

n o lo ng er li mpid G ood oi l is sol u bl e i n e v ery propor
.
1 48 MANUFACT URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

tio n in 90 p er c ent alcohol and em its o nly slight vapors

.

w h en bro u gh t in co nt a ct with iodi ne It co nsists l a rgely .

of th y mene and cy m ene a nd co ntai ns a few p er cent of ,

.

ph enol li k e bodi es
-
.

“
Turp entine oi l of ,
U nd er th e g eneral na me oil of
.
-

”
t u rp enti ne a re co mpris ed t he vol a ti l e oils obtai ned by
distillatio n fro m t he resi ns or oth er portio ns of di ffer ent
sp eci es of t he pi ne Th ere is a larg e nu m b er of th es e.

oils t he most i m porta n t o nes of which shall h ere be men

,

t ioned t ho u gh b ut a few ar e of i nt er est to the p erfu m er

,
.

A us tr i a n oi l of turp enti ne fro m P i nus la r ici o P oi r , ,

.

It is colorl ess or y ellow i sh tra nsparent S p ecific gra vity , ,

boil i ng poi nt 3 1 1 to 3 1 4 F ; t ur n s pol a riz ed ,

° °
.

l igh t to t he l eft sol ubl e in 6 parts 90 p er c ent al cohol . .

Wh en r ectifi ed i t has a S p eci fic gravity of a nd is

sol ubl e i n 7 parts of 9 0 p er c ent alcohol . .

Ger man oi l of turp entine fro m P i nus sylves tr is P , ,

.

a bies P vu lg a r i s P i cea a nd P r otu nd a ta r es em bl e s

,
.
p ,
.
,
.
,

t h e for m er ; sp ecific gravity to boi li ng ,

poi nt 3 1 1 t o 3 2 0 F ; tu r ns polari z ed li ght to t he

,
° °
.

l eft Wh en r ecti fied i t i s sol u bl e in 7 parts of 9 0 p er

.

cent alcohol
. .

F r ench oil of turp enti ne fro m F r en ch t u rp enti ne of ,

P inu s ma r i tima — I t is colorl ess or fai nt y ello w ish

.

S p e c i fic gravi ty boil i ng poi nt 3 1 3 to 3 1 5

, ,
°

F . t u r n s polariz ed l ight to the l eft ; odor p e c uliar ;

tast e b u rni ng With 7 parts of 90 p er cent alcohol it
. .

gi ves a cl ear sol utio n .

Veneti a n oil of tur p entine fro m V enic e t u rp enti ne of ,

L a r ix d eci d u a JlI i ll i s la e vorotatory a nd r es e mbl es

,
.
,

t h e pr e c edi ng but has a m or e a gr eeabl e odor

,
V enice .
1 50 MANUFAC T URE OF PERFUMERY .

at 3 2 0 to F a nd tu rns polariz ed light to t he

°
.
,

right .

Of t he di fferent vari eti es of oi l Of t u rp enti ne m en

t io ned o nly pi ne oil a nd d warf p ine oi l a re u s ed i n
p e rfum ery .

Oils of t u rp enti ne m ust be k ept ca r efu lly prot ecte d

fro m l ight and ai r Wh en badly kept th ey grad ual ly
.

b eco m e r esi no us w ith for matio n of for m ic a nd a cetic

acids Wh e n expos ed to t he air oil of t urp enti ne absorbs
.

ozo ne ; with iod i ne it d eto na tes viol ently Wh en bro ught .

i n co n ta ct w ith a m ixt u r e of co nc entrated s ulph u r ic acid

a nd n itri c acid i t ig n it es .

Ver bena oi l of fro m the l em o n v erb ena A loys ia ci tr i o

, , ,

d ora H ooker
,
T he pla n t i s c u lti vat ed i n t he g a rd ens
.

of G rasse T he oil i s extracte d fro m t he l eav es by dis

.

t illa t ion i n A u g u st bu t on acco u nt of its h igh pric e i s

,

al most out of m ark et i t b eing e v erywh ere s ubst it ut ed

,

by t he oi l of l em o n grass A nd r op og on citr a tus ,

.

Vi olet oi l of — The p erfu m e of t he v i ol et Vi ola Od o

, ,

r a ta
,
n a t ural ord e r Vi o la ceoe is d u e to a vol a ti l e oil of ,

a gr een color a nd of s u ch a p enetrat i ng odor a s to cau se

h ead a ch e ; i t acq u ires t he a gr eeabl e odor of the viol et
o nly by stro ng d il uti o n The v io l et far m s fro m wh enc e
.

t he flow ers a r e proc u r e d for t he prod uctio n of t he oil ,

a re v ery e xt ensi v e a t N ic e a nd i n t he ne ighborh ood of

F lor ence The oi l is o n ly obtai ned by t he absorptio n

.

process all oth e r methods to proc u re it havi ng fail ed up

,

to thi s ti m e It is sca rcely obtai nabl e in co m merce a s

.
,

t he F r ench m a nu fact u r ers who pre p a re the gr eat e r p a rt ,

of i t u se the v ery s mall yi eld for ma n ufact uri ng fine

,

p erfu me ry .

Vi ti ver t or veti ver oi l (oelum i va r a nchusa ) fro m t he

 V OL A TI L E OI L S U S E D I N P ER FU M ER Y . 1 51

se -
c all ed rh i zo me of a n I ndia n grass A na
cus cus , t he ,

ther eum mu ri ca tum T he oil is obtai ned by distillatio n

.
,

e ith e r fro m t he fresh root i n I ndi a or fro m t he i mport ed ,

dri ed root in E u rop e T he yi eld is v e ry s mall T he oi l

. .

i s thickly fl uid of a r ed bro w n color a nd has a n i ntens e

-
,
-
, ,

b ut agreeabl e odor v ery m u ch l i k e that of oi l of orris

root L i k e t he latter i t poss ess es t he v al ua bl e p r Oper ty
.
,

of di ffusi ng a l asti ng p e rfu me Its v a l ue ca n o nly b e .

j udg ed by t he odor a nd h ence it sho uld o nly be p ur

,

chas ed fro m a thoro ughly rel i a bl e firm .

IVinterg r een oi l (o leum g a u l ther i oe) is obt a i ned by d is

t il l a t io n fro m t he W i nte rgr een Ga ulther i a p r ocumbens , ,

a pla nt co m mo n i n N orth A meri ca It is th ickly fl uid .

,

y ellowish gree n to gold y ello w of a sw eeti sh aro mati c , , ,

p unge nt taste a nd p enetra ti ng narcotic odor whi ch , ,

beco m es agreeabl e o nly by stro ngly d il uti ng t he oil .

By r ectificatio n t he oil b eco me s e ntir ely colorl ess Its .

ng to G l a d
S p ecific gra vity is to (accordi
sto ne ,
I t i s spari ngly sol ubl e i n w a ter b ut ,

r ea dily so in a lcohol eth e r chlorofor m e tc The a q ueo u s

, , ,
.

or d il ute alcohol ic sol utio n i s color ed d eep viol et by

fe rr i c ch lorid e .

\ Vinterg reen Oil boils a t 3 9 2 F ; t he boili ng poi nt °

.
,

h ow ev er soo n rises to
,
F wh en i t r ema i n s co n
m
.
,

sta nt Between 3 9 2 a nd 4 2 8 F a t erp ene (C

.
°
)
°
.

co nstit uti ng abo ut ft of t he oi l d istils off t he r est corre

s o nd s to t he co m posi tio n C H O i t is m thyl l i
p 8 8 3 e s a c
y
OH
l at e 0 “H4
C O OC H,
'

. .

Wi ntergreen Oi l is also Obtai ned by distillatio n fro m

Ga ulther i a p uncta ta a nd Ga u lther i a leucoca rp a . A n

oil v ery closely res em bli ng

, Wi ntergreen oil is
,
in th is
1 52 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

co untry distill ed fro m t he yo ung S hoots of the A merica n

sp eci es of bi rch B etula lenta vario usly call ed sw eet
, ,

bi rch black birch ch erry bi rch a nd m o unt a i n m a hoga ny

, , , .

A ccordi ng to P rocte r t he oi l d o es n ot exist i n t he b i rc h

,

b u t is for med by t he a ctio n of t he wate r u po n a n odor

l ess body c a ll ed g a ulth eri n wh ich is co n v erted i nto
, ,

vol atil e oi l by t he r ea ctio n of a noth er s u bsta nce a na lo

go u s to e m ulsi n He nc e t he for m a tio n of Oil i s si m ilar
.

to that of Oil of bitter al m o nds To obta i n t he oil fro m

.

B etula lenta t he mat erial is chopp ed u p a nd pl a c ed i n

,

t he still as m uch as th is will h old a s u ffi ci ent q u a ntity of

, ,

h u n —
wat e r b ei ng th en a dd ed to fill t e still a bo t o e third full .

The still i s g ene r a lly p er m itted to r em ai n i n th is co ndi

tio n ov er n ight a fi re is m ad e in t he m or n i ng a nd dis
,

t i ll at io n proc eeds n ic ely T he m a nu fa ct u re of bi rc h

.

o il is carri ed o n at q u it e a larg e scal e by M r A H . . .

S e idl e of M iddl eport S ch uylki ll Co u nty P a

, , ,
.

M ethyl sal icyl a t e m ay also be arti ficially pr e par ed by

h eati ng a m ixt ur e of methyl a lcohol s ulph uric a cid a nd ,

s a l icylic a cid wh ereby at first m ethyl s ulph uric acid is -

form ed wh ich is th en co n v erted i nto methyl eth er a nd

s u lph uric a cid
OH OC H
C H3OH S O2

0 6 11 ,
C OOH
OH
6 4
so , OH .

C O OCH,
.

Ether ificat io n s ucc eed s witho u t d i ffic ulty it b ei ng s uffi ,

ci e nt to h eat t he m ixt ure for some ti me a nd th en po ur

1 54 MA NUFAC T URE OF P ER FU M E R Y .

pared t he Oil distill ed i n the cold s ea so n b e i ng more

,

colorl ess a nd l i m pid th a n th a t prod uced in the warm

s easo n T he oil has a n e xq uisit e o d or partaki ng of t he
.
,

j a s m i ne a nd t he lil a c a nd i s u sed i n the ma nu fact ure of

,

t he fi n est p e rfu mery . V a rio u s k i nds are fo und in com

”
m erc e th a t ma rk ed S a rtori u s b ei ng pr e fe rred
,
.

T he di ffe re nc e i n q u al ity of t h e m a ny ki nds of oi l

fo und in co mmerce i s ch i efly d ue to t he m ethod of p re
a r a t io n a nd t he s e l e ctio n Of t h e flow e rs wh ich poss e ss
p ,

t he fi nest a ro m a wh en fr eshly gath er ed I n disti lli ng .

,

t he fi rst ligh t vol a til e portio ns passi ng ov er hav e a n

i nco mpar a bl e p erfu m e whil e t he oi l d istill ing ov er late r
,

o n poss ess e s a n i nsi pid odor Hence t he m a nufact ure r

.
,

w ho o nly ob t ai ns t he first port io ns wi ll fu r n is h t he ,

fi nest q ua l ity of oil a nd it is th is m ethod of preparatio n

,
“ ”
which has g a i ned t he S a rtori us oi l its h igh r ep utatio n .

Whi l e accordi ng to S chi m mel C o s r eport 22 0 lbs of

.
’
, .

fresh y l a ng yla ng flo wers yi eld

-
l bs of oil S artori us .
,

for t he pr ep a ra tio n of h is fine oil distils off o nly abo ut

hal f t he q ua ntity .

Cona ng a oi l is a poor e r q ua l ity of yla ng yla ng oil -

,

obta i ned fro m t he sa me pla nt T w o v a ri eti es are dis

.

t ing u is h ed i n co m me rc e vi z : t he Ja va nes e a nd I ndi a n

, .

T he Ja v a o i l is the b est a nd m ay be u s ed wh er e
,

ordi na ry q ualiti es of yla ng yl a ng oi l will do A ccordi ng

-
.

to S ch i m mel C o s r e port t h e ch ea p er I ndia n oil is

.
’

v e ry r esista nt a nd d ura bl e in so aps esp ecially wh en ,

co mbi ned with l icar i or l i nalo e oi l .

 I
R ES N S A N D B A LSA M S . 1 55

C HA P T ER V .

R ES N SI A N D BA L SA M S .

TH E term r es ins is appli ed to c ertai n orga ni c s ub

s ta nces w hich a re v ery cl osely rel ated to vol a til e oils i n ,

so far a s m a ny of th em a re form ed fro m t he latter by

oxid at io n A s previ o usly m e ntio ned by expos u re to
.
,

t he at m osph eric a ir all volatil e oi ls u nd e rgo a cha ng e ,

w h er eby th ey th ick e n a nd a re fi n a l ly co nv erted i nto

s ubs tances poss essi ng t he charact e r of r esi ns I n nat ur e .

m os t r esi ns also occ ur m ix ed with volatil e oils .

The el eme ntary co nsti t uents of resi ns a re carbo n ,

hydrog en a nd ox y gen ; b ut g e nerally sp eaki ng th ey

, , ,

a re poor i n oxyg e n a nd rich i n carbo n C h em ically .

th ey b eh a v e lik e w ea k acids th e i r sol uti o ns freq ue ntly

,

r edd eni ng l it m us and so meti mes e xp elli ng o n boili ng , ,

t he c a rbo nic acid fro m alkal i ne carbo nat es .

I nd ep end ent of a possibl e co ntent of volati l e oil ,

ev ery na t u r a lly occ u rri ng r esi n co nsists of s e v eral r esi ns

wh ich h owev er ca n as a r ul e be s eparated o nly wit h

, , , ,

diffi c ulty.

The r esi ns a r e generally d i vid ed i nto ha r d r es ins s ofi ,

r es ins or ba ls a ms a nd g u m r es ins
,
-
T h e h ard r esi ns ar e
.
,

at t he ordi nary t emp eratu r e solid hard a nd brittl e can

, , , ,

b e r eadily p u lv eriz ed and co ntai n li t tl e or n o volatil e

,

Oil. T he soft r esi ns or b al sa ms a re k neadabl e and ,

so meti mes ev en s emi fl uid t h ey r epres ent sol utio ns of

-

r esi ns in volatil e oils or a m i x t u re of volatil e oil a nd

,
1 56 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M E R Y .

r esi n On expos u r e to t he a ir th ey are cha ng ed by t he

.

volatil e oil s u fferi ng oxidatio n th ey b eco m i ng t hen m or e

,

or l ess hard a nd m ay be co nv erted i nto a ctual r es i ns

, .

Th e g um resi ns a re m ixt u r es of v eg etabl e g u m r esi n

-
, ,

a nd vo l atil e o ils a nd a re obta i ned by i nspiss a tio n of t he

,

m ilky j uic e of s e v er a l pl a nts Wh en trit u ra ted with

.

w at e r th ey yi eld a m il ky t u rbid fl uid a nd dissolv e

, ,

o nl y p a rti a lly i n al cohol .

T he r esi ns a re wid ely d i ffus ed in t he v egeta bl e k i ng

d om th er e b e ing scarc ely a pl a nt whi ch do es n ot co nt a i n
,

r esi n i n one for m or a noth e r S o me fa m il i es of pla nts

.

a nd org a ns of pl a nts a re how e v e r disti ng u i sh ed by

, ,

th e ir sp eci a l w ealth of r esi ns T he r esi n s a r e as a r u l e

.
, ,

s ec rete d si m ulta neo u sl y wi th volatil e oils i n sp eci a l

r es e r v oi rs fro m wh ich th ey flow o ut nat ura lly at cert a i n
,

p eriods or a re Obta i ned by i ncisio ns m ad e i n t he pl a nts

,
.

A fe w bodi es of t he charact er of r esi ns al so occ u r in t he

a n i m al ki ngdo m a nd a s eri es of th em the fossil r esi ns
, , ,

a re g e ne r a lly class ed i n t he m i ner a l ki ngdo m tho ugh ,

m ost of th e m a re v ery l ik ely d e riv ed fro m pla nts S o m e .

r esi ns s u c h as t he ald ehyd e r esi ns etc are p u rely a rti

, ,
.
,

fi cial prod u cts .

O f t he hard r esi ns b enzoi n al o ne is u s ed in p er

,

fum ery of the bal sa m s P e r u balsa m Tol u b a lsa m a nd

, , ,

stora x balsa m a nd of t he gu m r esi ns t he myr r h -

,
.

B enzo in is e xcl usi v ely obt a i ned fro m S tyr a a: ben

zoi n D r a nd enzo me o i cina le H a ne tr wh ic h
, y ( B fl y ) a ee , ,

grows i n Jav a S uma tra a nd S ia m The bark of t he

, ,
.

tree i s sl it to allow a fl u id to fl o w ou t which co ncret es ,

o n t he tr u n k i n t he for m of grai n s or is coll ect e d i n ,

v ess els i n wh ich i t co ng eals a nd ass um es the form of

“
l umps ( tamp a ngs Old e r tr ees which hav e b een
1 58 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

r es ins sol ubl e in alcohol a nd colori ng matter The con

,
.

t ent of ci nna m ic and b enzoic aci d s a mo unts to fro m 1 2

to 2 0 p er c en t The b est vari eti e s fro m S um atra and
.

S i nga pore co nt a i n n o b enzoic aci d a nd thos e fro m S ia m ,

no ci nna m ic acid .

A l l vari eti es of b en zoi n poss ess a p ec u liar odor that ,

of t he b etter v ari eti es b e i ng a greeabl e a nd a sw eet , ,

aro mati c b ut p u ng ent taste The melti ng poi nt gen

,
.

e rall l i es b etw een 1 7 6 d 2 F th t of h t ars

° °
y a n 03 a t e e .
,

a nd of t he al m o nds b e i n g low er tha n that of t he gro u nd

m ass . A low m elti ng poi nt is acc epte d as a m ark of

-

q u ality S ia m b enzoi n w h i ch i s co nsid er ed t he b est

, , ,

m elti ng at 1 6 7 F S o me v a ri e ti es for instanc e thos e

°
.
, ,

r ecently i mport ed fro m S i nga por e hav e a pro no u nc ed ,

—
va nilla l ik e odor ; t he pres ence of va ni lli n has b een
e stablish ed i n t hem The S um atra b enzoi n has a
.

stora x l ik e Odor
-
.

B e nzoi n is spari ngly sol ubl e i n chlorofor m o nl y par ,

t ially so i n e th er a nd co m pl etely i n alcoh ol

,
On m ix .

i ng t he alcoh ol ic sol u tio n with w a ter t he r esi n i s ,

s eparated P etrol eu m eth er a nd be nzi ne withdraw o nly

.
-

b e nzoic acid fro m the dry pow d e red b enzoi n A ll ,

.

vari eti es of b enzoi n d issol ve i n co nc e ntrated su lph u ric

acid to a b ea uti ful p u rpl e col ored fl u id fro m wh ich ,

b enzoic acid i f pres ent is s eparated i n crysta ls by t he

, ,

gra d ual additio n of water T he e stablish ment of the .

pres ence of ci nna mic a cid i s b est effected as follows :

B oi l t he sa m pl e i n m ilk of l i m e filt er a nd trea t the , ,

sol utio n with hydrochloric acid The precipitate th ereby .

s epara ted is thoro ughly wash ed trit urated w ith p otas ,

s ium p er ma nga nat e a nd water and h ea t ed w h ereby i n , ,

t he pres enc e of ci nna m i c acid oil of bitter al mo nds is ,

 R ES N S I A N D B A LSA M S . 1 59

for med fro m the l atter wh ich i s r eadily r e cog ni zed by

,

t he odor .

If b en zoi n co nta i ni ng b en zoic acid be h eated wh ite ,

v a pors a re emitted which on cold s u rfaces d eposi t i n , ,

v e ry d el icate l ustro u s a cic ul a r or foli at ed crystals of

, , ,

b enzoic a cid the s o call ed b enzoi n flow e rs (F lor is ben

,
-

e nzoic acid th u s pr e par ed poss ess es an agre eabl e

zoes.
) B ,

va nilla l i k e o d or si nce by h eati ng th e b e nzoi n the

-
,

gr eat er portio n of t he odori fero u s s ubs t a nce co ntai ned

i n it escap es B enzoi c acid s ep a rat ed by t he w et m ethod
.

i s o d orl ess .

B enzoi n i s esp eci ally us ed for fum igati ng p asti l l es .

It i s also of grea t i mport a nce o n acco u nt of i ts prope rt y

of pre v enti ng fats fro m b eco m i ng r a ncid i f add ed t o ,

th em in s mal l q u a ntiti es .

P er u ba ls a m (B a ls a mum P er u via num) i s the prod uce

of t he B al sa m C o ast S a n S alv a dor C entral A merica
, , ,

wh er e S a ns onate for ms t he c entr al poi nt of t he i nd ustry .

I n t he m o unt a i n forests back of t he coast grows t he , ,

balsa m tree (l lfyr orvylon P er eir re K lotzch ; Toluiferaa ,

P ereir oe B a illon) nat u ra l ord er P ap iliona ceoe

, ,
T he ,
.

gai ni ng of ba l sa m co mmences wh en the tree is fiv e y ears

old t he coll ecti ng t i me b egi nni ng i n the dry s easo n i n
,

t he first d ays of N ov e mb er The t r un ks of t he tr ees .

a r e b el a bor ed with ha mm ers o n fo u r pl a c es a ccordi ng

(
to oth er stat ements o n tw e nty to th i rty ) so t hat t he
, ,

b a rk is d etach ed i n strips A fte r a fe w d ays t he b a rk .

t h u s loos ened is b u r n t off by m ea ns of torch es wh er e ,

u po n a balsa mi c fl ui d ooz e s fro m t he yo u ng wood wh ich ,

is absorb ed by pi eces of clot h or rags pl a ced u po n t he ,

d e nud ed places Wh en the r ags a re t horo ughly sat u

.

rated with balsa m t h ey are sq ueez ed ou t a nd th en

,
1 60 MANUFACT URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

throw n i nto a n earth en pot fill ed wi th boil i ng water ,

wh ereby t he b a ls a m is d etach ed a nd coll ects on the bot

t o m of t he v ess el B y thi s proc ess t he B a ls a mo d e tr ap o
'

i s obtai ned B y boil i ng the b a rk wh ich falls o ff a

.
, ,

s ma ll q ua ntity of a poorer q ual i ty of b alsa m call ed ,

ta cua s ontc i s obtai ned whic h i t wo uld s eem is fr e

, , , ,

q uently add ed to t he b e tte r q uality C r ud e P er uvia n .

bals a m i s a gray green to di rty y ellow fl uid of t he co n

- -
,

sistency of syr up The proc ess of p uri fication in u s e o n

.

t he B alsa m ic C o a st is a s follows The cr ud e bals am is

bro ugh t into l a rg e iro n v essels holdi ng fro m 1 300 to
,

1 5 0 0 lbs each a nd allow ed to cl a ri fy by q ui etly st a nd

.
,

i ng fro m 8 to 1 4 days t he h eavy i m p u riti e s s ettli ng o n

,

t he botto m whil e t he light di rt toge th e r with t he w a t er

, , ,

a pp ears a s fo a m o n t he s urfa c e A fte r 8 to 1 4 d ays

.

t h e b a lsa m is draw n Off t h ro u gh a cock locat ed a bo ut ,

i nch es a bo v e t he botto m of t he v ess el i nto a ti nned ,

i ro n boil e r a nd boil ed ov e r a n Op en fire at a m od erat e

,

h eat for 2 to 3 ho urs T he fo a m which for ms is ski nned

.

o ff a nd boili ng co nti nu ed until n o m or e fo a m a pp ea rs

,
.

T he coll ectio n of bals a m co nti nu es u ntil the first rai n

fa lls in A pril or M ay w h en t he work cea s es A v ig
,
.

o ro u s tree w ell treat ed yi elds b a lsa m for 30 y ears i n

, ,

s u ccess I o n a nd i f th e n allow ed to r est 5 or 6 y ears ca n

,

b e us ed s e v eral y ears lo ng er T he a nnual yi eld of bal

.

s a m fro m 1 0 0 tr ees is said to be a bo u t 5 5 0 lbs .

F ro m t he v ery odori fero us flow e rs of t he b alsa m tree

or accordi ng t o oth ers by expressi ng t he fr u its a whi te
, , ,

P er u v ia n balsa m i s ob t a i ned which is how e v er s eldo m

, , ,

fo u nd in co mm erce It is of t he co nsistency of h o ney

.
,

al e y ello w s m ells of va n illa a nd m el ilot a nd has a n

p
-
, ,
162 MANUFACT URE OF P ER FU M E R Y .

3 parts of i t givi ng a ccordi ng to F l u ckig er a cl ear

, ,

sol utio n w ith 1 p a r t of bis ulph id e Of carbon ; i f how ,

e v er 8 parts m or e of t he latt er b e add ed u p to 3 0 p er

, ,

c ent of a dark r esi n i s s eparated whi l e th e bis ulph id e

.
,

of carbo n is bu t slightly col ored .

F ro m Sa n S alvador to lbs of P er u .

balsa m a re a nn ually bro ugh t t o Eu rop e it b ei ng gen ,

e r a l ly i m port ed i n t in ca ns a nd m or e r a r ely i n e ar th en
,

j a rs s u rro und ed by a ki nd of pl a it ed m a tti ng A ccord .

i ng to wh eth e r t he prod uct co m es by way of Engla nd ,

N e w Y ork B r e m e n or H a m b u rg i t is disti ng u ish ed as

, , ,

English A m erica n B r em e n or Ha mb u rg P er u b a ls a m
, , ,
.

T h e s u pply b ei ng freq uently i ns uffici ent t he bals a m i s ,

s ubj ected to ma nv ad ultera tions A ch eap s e ca ll ed .

,
-

L o ndo n P er u b alsa m a lw ays co ntai ned colopho ny a nd

had a sp ecific gra v ity of Th er e ca n be no do u bt
that p ur e u nad ulterated P er u b alsa m is di ffi c ult to '

Obta i n .

A s ad ult er a nt s ar e us ed
,
A l cho hol v olatil e oils fat , ,

oil esp eci a lly c a stor oi l ; fu rth er cop a iba balsa m Ca nad a
, , ,

balsa m g urj un balsa m stora x b enzoi n a nd a sph alt um

, , , ,
.

The est a blish ment of th es e ad ult era nts is co nnect ed

with d i ffi c ulti es but t he prop erti es of P er u b alsa m
a re so ch a ract eristic th a t i t i s q uit e ea sy to d etect
wh eth er i t i s genu i ne a nd p u re or not t he sp ecific , ,

gravity and proportio n s of sol ub ility d es ervi ng esp eci a l

attent io n i n thi s res pect The t est by t he sp ecific
.

gravity is ava il a bl e si nce m ost of t he ad u lt era nts r end er

,

t h e b a lsa m sp e cifica lly light er esp ecially alcohol b ut, ,

also C opaiba balsa m (sp eci fic gravity castor oi l ,

oil of tu rp enti ne g urj un etc T he .

c usto mary proced ur e i s as fol lows : P repare a co mmo n

 R ES N SI A N D B A LSA M S . 1 63

salt sol utio n of S p ecific gravi ty by di ssolvi ng 1 part ,

of dri ed sodi um chlorid e i n 5 parts of di still ed water ;

drop t he ba lsa m i nto t he sol utio n e ve ry drop of p ur e
P er u bals a m si nks i n a ro undish for m to t he botto m
b ut i f t he drop agai n co m es to t he s u rfa c e a nd spreads
o ut u po n i t i t i s a s u r e S ig n of so me ki nd of ad ultera
,

tio n H ow ev er t he ch a ng e i n the sp eci fic gravi ty by

.
,

t he ad mixt ure of fa t oi ls i s b u t v e ry sligh t si nce t he ,

balsa m ca n o nly be m i x ed with th e m to a co nformabl e

fl ui d in t he proporti o n of fro m 7 to 1 0 to 1 C astor oi l .

form s a n exceptio n in th is resp ect i t bei ng m iscibl e also ,

i n o t h er proportio ns .

P etrol eu m eth er is a n e xc ell en t t esti ng ag ent

-
B ri ng .

i nto a test tu b e abou t

-
gra mm es of P er u balsam and ,

6 to 7 c enti met e rs of p etrol e u m e th er clos e the t u b e -

,

with t he fi nger a nd shak e vigoro usly a brow n th ickly ,

fl uid mass adh er es i n u neq ua l l ay ers to t he sid es of

t he t u b e a nd b e for e r unni ng tog e th e r r em a i ns i n this
,

positio n 1 to 2 m i nu tes after t he p etrol eu m eth er has -

b een po u red i nto a porcelai n sau cer If how e v er the .

, ,

m ass is t hi nly fl uid a nd do es not in t he abov e mentio ned

-
, ,
-

m a nner adh ere to t he sid es of t he t u b e b ut aft er shak

, , ,

i ng coll ects b elow t he p etrol e um e th er t he balsa m is

,
-
,

ad ulterated A fter S haki ng i mm edi a tely po ur off t he

.
,

p etrol e um eth er ; i f t he l a tter is al most colorl ess or

-
,

b ut slightly colored y el lowish the balsa m i s p u r e ; i f , ,

h ow ev e r it i s t urbid and soo n for ms a s edi ment or i f

, , ,

it is y ellow or brow nish or brow n t he balsa m i s ad ul

, ,

t erat ed .

A lcohol is add ed e i th er by it s elf or in t he form of

sat urated sol u tio n of stora x benzoi n or Ca nad a balsa m
, , ,

by which means the S p ecific gravity of the balsa m is but

1 64 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

sl ightly ch anged B ri ng the a bov e mentioned co m mo n

.
-

salt sol utio n t og eth er with 2 0 gra mmes of t he P eru

,

balsa m to be ex a mi ned i nto a s m all flask and distil off

, ,

abo ut 5 gra mm es ; gra d u ally m ix t he distillate with 5

drops of ca u stic pot a sh l ye and potassi u m i odid e sol u
tio n sat urated with iodi ne shaki ng g ently u ntil t he ,

m ixt ur e acq u ires a slightly y el l ow brow n ish color a tio n -

.

If thi s colorati o n do es not disapp ear in one m i n ute ,

add drop by drop m ore o f t he potash lye unti l di scolora

‘

tio n app ears I n t he pres ence of alcohol y el low crystals

.
,

of iodoform wh ich a re readily r ecog n iz ed u nd er t he

,

m i croscop e by th e ir for m coll ect on t he botto m of t he

,

fl u id A d ult eratio n with a volatil e oil i s r ecogniz ed i n

.

t he dis t illat e by odor a nd ta st e .

F at oil C a nada balsa m cop a i ba bal sa m g urj u n bal

, , ,

sa m a nd volatil e Oil m a b r cog n iz d by t he follow

, y e e e

i ng t ests : If p u re P er u b alsa m i n a porcelai n sa ucer

i s thoro ughly m ix e d with a n eq u al vol u m e of p ur e co n
cent rated s u lph u ric acid t he m ixt u r e th e r eby b eco m es
,

h eated vapors of a p u ng ent odor b ei ng emitt ed a nd i f

, ,

th en set a sid e to cool i t cong eals I n the pres ence of

,
.

fat or volatil e oils cop a ib a balsa m g urj un balsa m or

, , ,

C a nada balsa m it r em a i ns how ev er m or e or l ess thickly

, , ,

fl u id or m ore or l ess soft s meary If t he ba lsam be -

.

p u re t he cold m i xtu r e afte r washi ng with w a ter sho uld

, , ,

y ield a hardish or soft fr ia bl e m ass wh ich wh en -

, ,

k nead ed with t he fi ng ers sho uld not prov e smea ry or ,

stick y .

F a t oils are also v e ry r eadily r ecog niz ed by the u se

of war m p etrol e um eth er The extract is e vaporated
-
.
,

s ap on ified with potash l ye extracted with alcohol e vap , ,

orated and d eco mposed with hydrochloric acid A m ix .

166 MANUFACT URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

t he P balsa m with eth er co mpo u nd ed with abo u t

e u r
alcohol A ny asphalt um pr es ent re mai n s u ndi ssol ved
.
,

a nd m ay be coll ect ed u po n a filt e r .

I n p e rfu me ry P e r u b a lsa m i s ch i efly u s ed for po ma d es

a nd fum igati ng p a still es b ut also for cos metics a nd
,

soaps .

Tolu ba ls a m i s t he prod uce of M yr oazylo n toluifer um ,

H umb B onp l et K u nth To luifer a ba lsa mum L a

.
,
.
, ,
.
,

tree of t he nat ural ord er P ap ili ona ceoe growi ng i n ,

N orthw est er n S o u th A merica It e x ud es d uri ng the .

h eat of t he d ay a nd i s coll ected in go u rds It soo n

,
.

hard ens by which it is disti ng u ish ed fro m P er u balsa m

,
.

I n co mmerc e two v ari eti es of Tol u balsa m are fo und ,

o ne of t he co nsist ency of t u rp e nti ne a nd t he oth e r solid .

The first vari ety B ra zilia n balsa m for m s a sem ifl uid

, , ,

t urp enti ne l ik e sticky m ass of t he color of copaiba

-
, ,

bals am By lo ng stor a g e it b eco mes hard and brow nish

. .

T he sol id vari ety Tol u or C arthag ena balsa m i s a

, , ,

brittl e m ore or l ess tra nsl ucent y ello w bro w n or r ed

,
-

brow n r esi n of a granul a r or crystalli ne app earance It .

softens a t abo u t 86 F a nd melts b etw een 1 4 0 and

° °

149 F °
Vi ew ed und er the m icroscop e it a pp ears rich
.
,

i n crystals of s eparat ed ciannam ic and b enzoic acids .

Its sp eci fic gravity vari e s b etw een 1 and 2 B oth va ri e .

ti es o f Tol u balsa m hav e a n aro matic slightly p ung ent ,

a nd so urish tast e resem bli ng so mewhat th a t of P er u

,

balsa m Th ey are r ea d ily sol u bl e in ord i nary spirit of

.

wi ne alcohol aceto ne ch lorofor m and potash l ye but

, , , , ,

in sol u bl e i n p etrol eu m eth e r a nd bis u lph i d e of c a rbo n

-
.

I n Tol u bals a m h av e b ee n fo u nd tol uene ci n na m ic and ,

b enzoic acids a nd s e v e ral r esi ns not yet s uffici en tly ex

,

am i ned A ccordi ng to S ch a rli ng tol uene co nstit ut e s

.
,
 R ES N S I A N D BA LS A M s . 167

abo ut 1 p er cent of t he T ol u b alsa m It for ms a col or

. .

l ess li m p o il boils accord i ng to D e vill e at 3 3 8 F

, , , ,
°
.
,

a nd accordi ng to E K opp a t b etw ee n 309 a nd 3 2 0 F

° °
. .
, ,

a nd ha s a sp ecific gravity of It ha s a sh a rp ,

p ung ent p epp er li k e ta ste a nd a n odor r es e m bli ng that

,
-
,

of el e mi I n t h e air it i s gra d ua lly co nv e rt ed by

.
,

oxidatio n i nto a soft r es in witho ut h ow ev e r b eco mi ng

, , ,

colored .

On boili ng Tol u bals a m with w at e r ci nna m ic a nd ,

benzonic acids a re s ep a rated fro m t he sol u ti o n W h en .

treated with potash lye the r esi no us a cids a re fi x ed a nd ,

t he tol uene floats u po n t he fl u id .

C o mmercial Tol u b a lsa m is fr eq ue ntly m ore or l ess

m i x ed wit h v eg eta bl e r emai ns w h ich how ev e r ca n b e, , ,

r eadily d etec ted wit h t he m icroscop e esp eci ally afte r ,

t he sol u ti o n of t he r esi no u s co nstit uents It i s fre .

q ue ntly a d ulterat ed with t urp enti ne or pi ne r esi n .

S u ch ad ulteratio ns m ay be d etect ed by bis ulphid e of

carbo n wh ich co mpl et ely dissol v es th es e s ubsta nces
, ,

b u t no t t he Tol u balsa m Wh en p ure To l u balsa m is

.

trit ura ted with co ncentrated s ulph u ric aci d a ch erry r ed ,

-

fl u id is a ccordi ng t o U l ex obtai ned wh ich do es not

, , ,

e vol v e s ulph uro u s acid as is t he cas e i n t he pr es en c e of

,

t u rp enti ne r esi ns
-
.

Tol u balsa m i s ch i efly used for fu migati ng p astill es .

The ti nct ur e pr epared fro m it i s also fr eq u ently u s ed

with adv a ntage to gi v e d urabili ty to t he scent of h a nd
k erch i ef p erfum es .

A ccordi ng to Hol mes a nd N a lor a T Ol u b als a m di f ,

fe r i ng i n its ch em ical b eh a v i or i s fo u nd in t he E nglish

whol esal e trad e I n th ic k l ay e rs i t is y ellow brow n
.
-
,

but p erfectly tra nspar ent a nd gold y ellow in t h i n lay ers -

1 68 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

a nd xtraord i na rily sticky By storag e it hard ens bu t

e .

slightly a nd do es not b eco me brittl e ev en i f e xpos ed for

,

s ev e ra l d ays to a t em p era tu re of 2 1 2 F Its Odor r e °

.

m i nds o ne so m e wh a t o f gl ue and i t d e v elops a p u ng en t , ,

sh a rp t a st e o nly a fte r ch ewi ng it for a fe w s eco nds Its .

m elti ng poi nt li es a t F b ei ng low er th a n th a t .

,

of ord i nary Tol u b al sa m fro m which it also d i ffers i n ,

th a t i t co mpl etely d issol v es in eth er as w ell as i n ben

zi ne wh il e i t is o nly p a rti a lly dissol v ed by pota sh l ye
, .

The b a ls a m co nt a i ns n o tol uene no r a hydrocarbo n , ,

boili ng a t 3 2 0 F F u rth er i nv estigati o ns h a v e show n

°
.

it actu a lly to b e a nat u r a l prod uc t t he d erivatio n of ,

wh ich h ow e v er co uld not be a scert a i ned

, ,
.

S tor a x i s t he prod uc e of L iq u id a mba r or i enta le IlI ill a , ,

pla nta i n li k e tree wh ich r ea ch es a h e ight of abo ut 3 2 fee t

-
.

I n S o u th er n A s i a M i nor esp eci a l ly i n Cypr u s t he tree

, ,

for ms h andso me d ens e forests A ccord ip g to F l u eki ge r

,
.
,

t he balsa m i s extr a ct ed fro m t he p eel ed o f f bark wi th -

,

t he assista nc e of war m w a te r The m ass th u s m elt ed .

o ut si n ks dow n i n t he w at e r a nd is lat er o n co m bi ned ,

with t he s u bsta n ce obt a i ned by ex pressi ng the boil ed

bark w hil e still w a rm This m ixt u re for m s t he li q ui d
.

ue r em a i ni ng aft e r
s tor a a:
(S to r a x li ui d us
g ) T h e r e sid .

e xpr essio n i s dri ed i n t he s u n a nd for m s u nd er t he ,

na m e of Co r tex thymi a ma tis a n articl e of co mm e rc e ,

,

wh ich i s u s ed for fum igati ng p urpose for t he prepara ,

tio n of ordi nary stora x et c T he cr ud e storax i s bro ugh t

,
.

to S myr na S yr a a nd K OS a nd co mes i nto t he Europ ea n

, , ,

m a rk et a l most e xcl usi v ely fro m Tri este .

L iq uid storax i s a sticky opaq ue s u bst a nce of t he co n ,

s is tencv of t u rp enti ne It has a m o u se gray color wh ich

.
-
,

by co nta ct with t he air b eco mes brow n on the s u rface ,

 70 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

sol ubl e bu t i s m isci bl e in all proport io ns with a nhydro u s

,

S pi rit Of wi ne chlorofor m b enzi ne eth e r a nd oils

, ,
It , ,
.

sta nds i n the sam e relatio n to ci nna m ic a c id a s b enzol

to b e nzoic a cid and is form ed by distill i ng a m ixt ure of
,

ci nna m ic acid a nd bari um oxid e .

S tyr a ci n is ci nnyl ci n na mat e On d istill i ng liq u id .

storax with water styrol p a ss es ov er If ne w fro m the

,
.

r esi d ue t he ci nna m ic acid be w ithdra w n by m ea ns of

soda —sol utio n a nd the r esi n wh ich r em a i ns b eh i nd be
, , ,

trea ted with cold S pirit of w i ne styraci n is l eft wh ich , ,

crystalliz es fro m eth er hot a lcohol or benzol It for ms

, ,
.

colorl ess odorl ess a nd t astel ess crysta l s which melt a t

, ,

1 1 3 F a nd r emai n for a lo ng ti m e fl u id a ft e r m elti ng

°
. .

It is i nsol ubl e in wat e r bu t sol u bl e in 2 5 p a rts cold

, ,

a nd 2 parts boil i ng spi ri t of wi ne a s w ell as i n 5 p a rts

, ,

e th e r .B y oxidizi ng s u bsta nc es it i s co n v erted i nto bitte r

al mo nd oil a nd b en zoic a cid a nd by the a cti on of p otas ,

si u m hydroxid e it is d eco mpos ed to ci nnyl alcohol and

ci nna mic ac id .

G ood liq uid stora x sho uld yi eld to 9 0 p er ce nt alco .

hol at l east so mu ch sol ubl e matter th a t t h e dri ed r esi

d ue o f the filter ed alcoho l ic sol utio n a mo u nts to 6 5 p er
cen t of t he q ua ntity of storax
. .

Ordi na ry liq u id stor a x wh ich has not b ee n stor ed too

,

lo ng co ntai ns 1 0 to 2 0 p er cent of w a ter and abo u t t he

,
.

s a m e q ua ntity of i mp u riti es (fr a g ments of pl a nt tiss ue)

wh ich re m ai n b ehi nd on tr eat ment with t he a bov e m en -

t ioned sol v e nts .

L iq uid stora x i s s a id to be a d ult e rat ed wi th the t ur

entines O f so me S p eci es of l a rch a nd pi ne S u ch a d ul
p .

ter a tio n i s pri m ar ily d et ect ed accordi ng to Hager by , ,

t he S p ecific gr a vity Ta k e u p a drop of t he b a lsa m

.
 R ES N SI A N D B A LS A M S . 1 71

with a k nitti ng needl e a nd by h ea ti ng t he needl e m ak e

-
,

it fall i nto a cold sol u tio n of 1 part co mm o n salt a nd 8

parts w ater On stirri ng the drop m u st si nk oth erwis e
.
, ,

ad ultera tio n with t urp enti ne i s v ery l ik e ly N ext bri ng .

5 gra mmes of t he storax i nto a t est t u b e m el t i t i n th e -

,

water ba th a dd vol ume of a bsol ute alcohol a nd m ix

-
, ,

by shaki ng ; th en co m po u nd t he m ix t ure wit h se v era l

ti mes i ts vol u me of p etrol eu m eth er S hak e vigoro u sly -
, ,

allo w to s ettl e a nd d eca nt t he lay er of pe trol eum eth er

,
-
.

R ep ea t twic e thi s sh a ki ng with p etrol eu m eth er ; th en -

e v a por a t e t he p e trol e um eth e r sol utio n i n a tar ed fl a sk

-

i n t he wat er b a th -
T he r esid ue r e mai ni ng aft e r e va p o
.

ratio n is colorl ess bl uish opal esc ent a nd of a n agreeabl e

, ,

odor ; i n t he pres ence of t u rp enti ne i t is y ellowish a nd

has the not to be mistak en odor of t u rp e nti ne
, ,
.

S tor a x i n g ra ins co nsists of ro u nd lo ngi sh grai ns of a ,

brow n bl a ck col or a nd s mooth l ustro u s s urface which

-
, ,

soften by the war mth of t he ha nd It i s nothi ng bu t .

liq uid stora x bro ught i nto a gra nular for m a nd by stor
ing fr eed m or e or l ess fro m i m p u ri ti e s .

Or d ina r y s tor a x (S tyr a x ca ta mitu or S t vu lg a r is ) i s a n

s
.

arti ficial prod uct prepared by m ixi ng l iq uid storax with

vario u s co mm i nuted v eg eta bl e s u bsta nc es F or merly .

t he abov e m entio ned bark of t he stora x tr ee ( Cor tex

-

thymia ma tis ) was o n ly u s ed for th is p u rpos e b ut at ,

present sa w d ust and exh a usted ci nna m o n a re also

tak en This storax form s a r eddish or brow n black
.
-
,

h u mu s— l ik e mass wh ich is g eneral l y moist Wh en

,
.

dri ed it is v ery friabl e a nd has a stora x l ik e odor -

disti nctly calli ng to m i nd that of c inna m o n G ood .

q ualiti es are ab unda ntly cov er ed w ith crysta lli ne effl or

es cences of ci nna m ic acid a nd styraci n
( ) poor er q u al i
1 72 MANUFACT URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

ti es pr epa red with t he add itio n of sawd ust hav e a musty

odor T he a d m i x ed v eg etabl e ti ss ue ca n a ccordi ng to
.
,

Wi es ner be r eadily recogni z ed by boili ng the storax

,

wi th a lcohol a nd a fter w a shi ng tr ea t i ng with dil ute

,

ch ro m ic acid to wh ich a s ma ll q ua ntity of s ul ph uri c

,

a cid ha s b ee n a d d ed .

L iq u i d stora x was a lrea d y u s ed for fum ig a ti ng p ur

pos es by t he a nci ent G reeks and Jews a nd i t for m s to ,

d ay a co nstit u ent of fu m ig a ti ng pastill es ess ences et c , ,

.

S tora x ti nct ur e fu rth er m or e poss ess es th e prop erty of

gi vi ng m ore co nsta ncy to scents r es em bli ng it P ies se .

says i n r egard to the odor of liq uid stora x that it com

, ,

bi nes t he agreeabl e with t he d isagreeabl e i t poss essi ng ,

p a rti all y a n odor si m ilar to th a t of t he t ub e ros e and

partially o ne re m i ndi ng of coal tar o il How e v er i t -
.
,

posses s es this disagreeabl e od or o nly i n a con centrated

sta te ; wh en fi nely d i vid ed or di l uted i t di ffus es a v ery ,

agreeabl e p erfume .

U nd e r t he na m e A mer ica n s tor a x w hi te P er u ba ls a m , ,

w hi te I ndi a n ba lsa m or li q ui d a mba r is fo u nd in co m

m e rce a prod u ct si m i l a r to storax whi ch is d er iv ed fro m ,

L i qu id a mba r s tyr a ciflu a L a tree i n digen o u s to M e xico

,
.
,

a nd L o u isi a na Th i s b als am form s a cl ea r tra nsp a re nt

.
, ,

brow ni sh y el lo w s e mi fl u id mass It has a stor a x l ik e

-
,
-
.
-

odor a nd a sharp a nd p ungent taste

,
It is o nly .

parti ally sol ubl e I n a lcohol sp ecifically lighte r tha n ,

w a ter a nd sh ows a n acid reacti o n It is said to co nsist

,
.

of 2 4 p er ce nt styraci n 1 p er cent ben zoic a cid vol atil e

.
,
.
,

oil et c It i s so meti mes u sed for fu migati ng p u rpos es

,
.
,

b ut chi efly s erv es for the ad u lt e ratio n of Tol u balsa m .

—
M yrr h ( Gu mmi r es ina myrr ha Gummi myrr ha ) is a ,

u m r e si n t he prod uce Of B a ls a mod end r on E h ren

g ,
 4 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

r ecog n i z ed by t he d a rk brow n col of and dirty app ear

-

a nce . M yrrh i s with di ffic ulty r ubb ed to a fine powd er ,

thi s b ei ng possibl e o nly aft er dryi ng which must h ow , ,

e v e r b e do ne at a v e ry m od erat e h ea t i n ord er to re
, p
v e nt loss of volatil e oil .

A ccordi ng to Hag er myrrh co nsists i n 1 00 parts of

,

a bo u t parts vol ati le oil (myrrhol ) 2 5 to 3 5 parts ,

resi n (myrrhin) 5 5 to 6 5 parts gu m sol ubl e i n wat er

, ,

3 to 8 parts salts i m p u riti es a nd water

,
Water for m s
,
.

with myrrh a n em u lsio n and dissol v es t he g u m The

,
.

re si no u s co nstit uents a r e d issolv ed by S pi rit of wi ne .

T he gu m wh i ch for ms t he portio n of the myrrh

,

sol u bl e in w a te r b ut i nsol u bl e in a lcohol a nd a m o u nts

, ,

to fro m 5 7 to 5 9 p er c ent is accord i ng to Oscar K o ehl er

.
, ,

a hydroca rbo n of t he form u la C6H OO The portio n , ,

.

sol ubl e i n a lcohol i s accordi ng to t he same ch emist a

, ,

m i xt ure of v ari o u s r esi ns a n indi ffer ent soft r esi n of t he

,

form ul a O 6H3 0 sol u bl e i n alcohol a nd eth e r form i ng

2 4 5, ,

t he gr ea t er portio n of it Th ere a re fu rth e r present

.

two resi n acids one of wh ich has to be co nsid ered a

,

bib asic a ci d of co mpositio n C ,2H, 60 and t he oth e r as a 8,

m o nob a si c acid of t he for m ula C 6 H32 O The pri ncipal 2 g.

co nstit uent of th e volat il e oil of wh ich accordi ng to ,

K o ehl e r 7 to 8 p er c e nt i s pr es ent whil e R u ickhol d t

,
.
,

for me rly fo und o nly p e r c en t corr espo nd s to t he .

formu l a C H H O T he volatil e oi l is lae vorotatory and

M
.
,

wh en dil uted with bis u lph id e of carbo n b eco mes accord ,

i ng to F l u ck ig e r vi ol et by t he actio n of bro m i ne
,
An .

e x tract of m yrrh pr epar ed with bis u lphid e of carbo n,

,

giv es t he sa me reactio n with bro mi ne v apor Hydro .

chloric or nitric acid also colors myrrh v iol et which ,

a lso appl ies to the volati l e oil .

 I
R ES N S A N D BA L SA M S . 1 t5

P etrol e um eth er sho uld at the ut m ost tak e u p 6 p er

-
, ,

c ent of t he myrrh a nd t he extract m u st be colorl ess

.
,
.

M yrrh is freq u e nt ly co nta m i na t ed w ith b a rk wh ich ,

for m s eith er a fil m of cork as th ick as pape r or a cr ust

of a fibro u s a nd a t t he sa me ti me brittl e na t ur e Sa nd
, ,
.

or s mall p ebbl es are a lso freq u ently m ix ed w ith t he

myrrh . Oth er vari eti es of gu m or gu m resi n wh ich -
,

co nsi d erably d ecr eas e t he val ue of the prod u ct are Often ,

fo u nd i n t he co m mercial articl e th e i n ferior q ua li ti es esp e

,

c iall b e i ng ad ult erated a nd m ix ed with d a rk pi ec es of

y
S ua ki m g u m g um of the pl um or ch erry tree bd elli um
, , ,

a nd si m il a r s u bsta nc es which a re partially m oistened

,

w ith myrrh ti nct ur e a nd scatt e red ov e r with m yrrh

,

powd er A d u lt era tio n with g

. u m —
arabi c g um of t he ,

pl um or ch erry tree w h ich a re co at ed with alcoholi c

,

myrrh sol utio n i s r ecog n iz ed by the pal er l u stre gr eate r

, ,

tra nsp a rency a nd m ucil agi no u s tast e P i eces of r esi n

,
.

m elt o n h eati ng w h i l e myrrh o nly sw ells up

,
Bd elli u m .

i s d etect ed by t he d a rk or bl ack brow n color to ugh ness -

, ,

l ess bitte r ta ste and by crackli ng a nd spitti ng wh en h eld

,

i n th e fl a me of a ca ndl e a s w ell as by t he r eactio n of

,

myrrh with n itric acid discov ered by B o nastr e By m i x .

i ng 5 c u bic c enti m et e rs of alcoholic myrrh ti nc t u r e with

5 to 1 0 d rops of fum i ng n i tric a ci d a ros e Color colorati o n
'

-
,

passi ng i nto red r es ults P a rk e r g iv es the followi ng

.

m ethod for t esti ng myrrh P repare a ti nct u re of 1 part

myrrh a nd 6 parts spi rit of w i ne S atu rat e wi th th i s .

ti nct ure wh ite filtering pap er allow it to d rai n off and , ,

th en wra p i t aro u nd a glass rod m oistened with nitric

aci d of sp ecific gravity With genu i ne myrrh the .

pap e r i mm ediately b eco mes d ee p y ello w— brow n and th e n

black , whil e t he edges of the pap er strip app ear da rk
176 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

u rpl e r ed Wh e n a few drops of t he ti nct u r e of m yrrh

p
-
.

a re a llow ed to dry i n a tra nsp a re nt r esid ue r ema i ns

,

b ehi nd The ti nct ures of sp u rio us art icl es (w ith t he ex

.

ce t io n of biss a bol gi v e t u rbid r e sid u es

p ) .

M yrrh w as a lready i n M os es s ti me a n a rticl e u s ed i n

’

t he sacrifice s of t he Isra elite s It s ee m s to hav e b een .

m a d e u se of by D em ocrat es D ioscorid e s en u merat es .

eight v a ri eti es of it a nd P li ny s e v e n
,
wh ich he ob ,

ta ined fro m A byssi nia He rodot us a nd D iod o r us

.

S icu l us m enti o n A rabia a s t he ho me of t he m y rrh tr ee .

I n p e rfu mery myrrh i s ch i efly u s ed for d enti frices

,

a nd fu mig a ti ng p a still es a nd ess e nc e s .

Op op a na x i s t he i nspiss a t ed j uice of t he root of Op o

ona x Chi r oniu m K och or F er u la O o ona x L It
p , p p
, ,
.

for ms gra i ns or l um ps of a red y ellow or brow n color -

,

a nd ha s a fract ure of a w a x y l ustr e It can be r u bb ed .

to a gold y ellow powd er It has a stro ng a nd p ec uliar

-
.

od or a nd a v ery bitte r a nd ba lsa m ic t aste With w a ter

,
.

i t for m s a n em ulsi o n wh il e it i s o nly parti ally sol ubl e

,

i n spi rit of wi ne It co ntai ns v e ry littl e vol a t il e o il

.
,

a nd a r esi n wh ich m elts at 2 1 2 F a nd i s sol ubl e in

°
.
,

e th er a nd a q ueo u s alk a li es It fu rth e r co ntains g um

.
,

orga n ic a nd i norga nic salts and foreig n ad mixt ures ,

.

Opopa nax is b ut lit t l e u s ed in p erfu me ry F or Extra i ts .

t he Opopa nax oil is b ett e r a dapte d tha n t he ti n ctu re p re

pared fro m t he g u m t he latter colori ng t he Extr a i t dark
,
.

Oli ba num o r F r a n/ci ncens e is t he i nspissated j uice of va

rio ns variet ies of B osw ellia partially i ndigeno us to A frica
,

a nd partially to A sia The p u re pi eces are pal e y ellow sel

.
,

d o m r eddish tra nsp a rent,or op a q ue brittl e cov ered with

, , ,

a mea ly coating and of a spli ntery fractu re The sp ecifi c .

gravity of O liba num is its odor is sligh tly balsa m i c ,

a nd its taste bitte r a nd p u ng ent It mel t s o nly incom .

1 78 MANUFACT URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

C HA P T ER VI .

P ER FU M E -
S U BS TA N C E S F R OM THE A N IM A L K I N G DOM .

M U S K is
a p ec uliar co ncrete s ecretio n obtai ned fro m
IlI os chus mochiferus L an an i m al b ea r ing a clos e r e
,
.
,

s embl a nce to t he d eer in shap e and siz e a nd i ndig eno u s ,

to t he high platea us of A sia The m usk is co ntai ned .

i n a n ov al hairy proj ecti ng sac fo und o nly i n t he

, , ,

m al e sit u ated b etw een t h e u m bi l ic u s and t he pr ep u c e

,
.

It i s fro m 2 to 3 i nch es lo ng a nd fro m 1 to 2 bre ad .

I n co mmerc e s e v era l vari eti es of m usk ar e di sti n

,

u is hed t he pri ncipal o nes how e v er b ei ng To n ki n a nd

g , , ,

K ab a rd in m usk .

Tonkin Thi bet or Or i enta l mus k Y unna n mus h (M os

, , ,

chus tongu i nensi s or or i enta li s or tr a nsg a ng eta nu s ) is t he

, ,

b est vari ety It co mes fro m C h i na To nk i n a nd T hibet

.
, ,
.

It co nsists of sacs of a p uffed — u

p app ea ra nc e m ore ro u nd ,

i sh tha n lo ngish varyi ng i n S iz e b e i ng at t he u t most

, ,

i nch e s lo ng u p to ,
i nch es bro a d and to
i nch es th ick and w e igh i ng fro m
,
drach ms to 1 oz .

drach m s ea ch The h a iry sid e of the sac is con

.

cav e and the oth e r flat F ig 2 1 shows an u nshor n . .

To nki n mu sk sac of medi um siz e fro m t he co ncav e or

hairy sid e a nd F ig 2 2 th e sa me from t he sid e The
. .

en v elop of th e sac co nsists of a do u bl e ski n t he o u t e r ,

sk in b ei ng gray brow n One sid e of the sac is cov ered

-
.

with sti ff, y ellowish hair with red brow n poi nts g ener -
,
 P E R FU M E S U B S -
TA N C ES F R OM A N IM A L K I N G D OM . 1 79

a lly cu t sh ort The origi na l pack ages co ntai n i ng u s u

.
,

a lly 2 4 s a cs ea ch co nsist Of l o ngi sh fo ur cornered

, ,
-

box es l i ned with l ead foil a nd cov ered o utsid e w ith -

so m e silk en st uff Each s ac i s s eparately wrapp ed i n

.

tiss ue paper The m usk s u bs ta nce a pp ea rs as a d a rk

.
-

red to bl a ck brow n m a ss i nt e r mi ngl ed w i th h ai r a nd

-
,

form i ng ro u ndish grai ns T he Odor is p enetrati ng a nd .

t he t as t e bitt er .

K a ba r d i n S i ber i a n or R us si a n mu s h (ItI oschus s ibir i us

, , ,

or ca ba r dinicus) is a ch eap e r v a ri e ty of a n i nferior q ual

i ty wh ich is bro ught fro m M o ngoli a a nd S ib eri a The
,
.

sacs (F ig 2 3 ) a re lo ngish g e nera lly p ear shap ed flatter

.
,
-
,

in proportio n to th e ir lo ngit u di nal a nd l a tit udi nal d ime n

sio ns a nd not of a p uffed up app eara nce t he s urfa ce
,
-
,

b ei ng freq uent ly e v e n shri v ell ed or wri nkl ed T he o ute r .

FI G . 21 . FI G . 22 . FI G . 23 .

ski n is d enser a nd hard er a nd on the co nv ex sid e co v ,

er ed with lo ng er hair
( p
u to i nch lo ng ) of n early a ,

si l v er or brow n ish color Towards t he ed ge of t he sac .

t he ha irs a re ho w e v e r fr eq uently so tri mmed a nd shor n

, ,
1 80 MANUFAC T URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

as to gi v e the sac a r esemblance to the To nki n articl e .

The m usk s ubsta nce i nclos ed i n the sac a mo unts to fro m

-

dra ch ms to 1 oz It is so m ewhat pal er m ore .

,

brow n or y ellow brow n soft al most u nct uo us wh en

-
, , ,

fresh b ut after stori ng solid or gra nular p ulv er ul ent

, ,
-
,

l ik e gro und b ur nt co ffee T he odor is w eak o ffe ns ive

,
.
, ,

m or e u ri nos e res em bli ng that of Castor or hors e sw ea t

, ,
.

M os chus ex ves i cis i s s a id to be t he m usk t a k en fro m

To n ki n sacs A s a r ul e h owe v er it co nsists of a m ix
.
, ,

t ur e of m usk s ubsta nce ta k en fro m good sacs wh ich p re

se nt a bad a pp ea ra nce or h a v e b een t orn a nd fro m sa cs
, ,

of a n i nferior q ua l ity fr eq uently ad ultera ted with for

,

ei n s u bst a nc e s s u ch a s d ri ed blood d u ng of birds

g , , ,

w ea t h e red bica rbo nate of soda etc ,

.

To Op en a m u sk s ac c ut i t with a sharp p enk ni fe ,

a ro u nd wh ere the hairl ess si d e j oi nts t he hairy sid e a nd ,

e m pty it by scra pi ng i t o ut u po n a sh eet of pap e r T he .

mem bra nes a nd ha ir a re th en r em ov ed by mea ns of

pi ncers .

T he m usk s u bstance of t he To nki n sacs i s g ene ra lly

-

a h eavy dry feeli ng ma ss ; i t is p a rtially i nte r m i ngl ed

,
-

wi t h a nd parti ally env elop ed by s mall th i n soft brow n , , , ,

so mewhat tra nsp a re nt me mbra nes a nd freq uently m ix ed

w ith s mall hair It is partially loos e a nd cr u mmy a nd
.
,

p a rti a lly co nsists of v a rio u s l um ps or gra i ns of t he siz e

of a m ustard s eed to that of a p ea which are mor e or ,

l ess ro u ndi sh m ore seldo m a ng ular softer or hard er

, ,

b ut ca n a l wa ys b e r eadi ly cu t ) Of a fatty l ustre a nd

( ,

bl a c k bro w n or dark red color I n fres h sacs t he ma ss

- -
.
,

freq uently soft a nd wh e n br uised so m ewhat s m eary

, , , ,

b ut ne v e r u nct u o u s On r u b bi ng i t b eco mes pal e r i n

.
,

color a nd gl is teni ng h a ir li ke p a l er gray or wh i t ish

,
-
, ,
1 82 MAN U FACT URE OF P ER FU M ER Y .

locat ed b etw een the a nus a nd g enerati v e orga ns and is ,

e m itt e d wh e n t he a n i m al b eco m e s excit ed A ccordi ng .

to R S C risti a ni thi s m usk i s i nv al uabl e for t he

. .
,

toil et so ap i nd ustry of A merica i t b ei ng nea rly as good ,

a nd stro ng as g e nu i ne m usk C risti a ni has for merl y

.

u s ed m u ch of i t for sc e nti ng soaps pow d e rs et c bu t , ,

.
,

do es n ot r eco mmend it for ess ences Wh en u s ed for .

so a ps so me ti m e is r eq u ired for the odor to b eco me r e

,

fi ned a nd i f a pi ec e of soap scented w ith it i s stor ed

,

for a fe w m o nths i t wo u ld accord i ng to C ris t iani s

, ,
’

a ss er t io n b e d i ffic ult e v en for a n e xp ert p erfu m er to

,

d isti ng u ish t he odor fro m that of g enu i ne To nki n m u sk .

A s possi bl e s ubsti t ut es for t he m usk d ee r m ay fu rth er

b e m en tio ned a S p eci es of rat i ndigen o u s to t he \ Vest
I ndi es a nd a n a nt elop e of N ort h A frica It i s also
,
.

s a id th a t m u sk d eri v ed fro m t he M ississippi alligator

has b een bro ught i nto co mm erce The sacs a re said to .

b e s m a ll t he odor so mewh a t di ffer ent fro m t hat of

,

g enu i ne m usk r es em bli ng that of ci v et b ut s uit a bl e for

, ,

p erfum i ng p u rpos es .

A process for t h e preparatio n of a rtificia l mus h has

b een pat ented by D r Ba ur of G i sp ersl eb en A ccordi ng
.
,
.

t o t he sp eci ficatio n t ol u ol i s m i x e d with t he h alog en

,

co m po u nds of b uta ne a nd boil ed with t he additio n of

al um i ni um chlorid e or a l um i n i um bro m id e The pro .

d uct of the r eactio n i s m ix ed with wat er a nd d istill ed

wi th st ea m The fractio n pass i ng ov er b etw een 33 8 a nd
.
°

3 9 2 F i s ca u ght a nd trea t ed w i th fum i ng n itric acid

°
.

a nd fum i ng s u lph u ric a cid The prod uct obta i ned i s

.

wash ed with wate r and alcohol and crystalliz ed The ,

.

arti ficial mu sk for ms an am orphou s w hite pow d er ,

wh ich i n ti me b e co mes y ellow It i s r eadily sol ub l e .

 P ER FU M E S U BSTA N CES F R OM
-
A N IM A L K I N G DOM . 1 83

i n 9 0 p er cent alcohol b ut fro m sol utio ns i n weak e r

.
,

alcohol it aga i n crystalliz es out a t a cool t em p erat u r e .

The odor b eco mes v e ry pro no u nc ed afte r t he additio n of

5 drops of a m m o nia to 1 po u nd of a o ne per cent .

sol utio n .

This a rtifici a l prod uct havi ng b ee n in ex istence b ut

for a sh ort ti me it i s not possibl e to co m e to a fina l con
,

e l usio n as to its availabi li ty How e v e r its odor di ffers .

,

e ss en ti ally fro m that of t he g en u i ne art icl e a nd i t ca n ,

scarcely be e mploy ed for fine e xtracts ; i f l o w eno ugh i n

price i t might how e v er be s uita bl e for soaps a nd
, ,

ch eaper p erfumes .

M usk i s v ery m uch a d ulte ra t ed t he C hi nes e b e i ng ,

ad epts in th is soph isticatio n D ri ed blood on a cco u nt .

,

of i ts res em bla nce to musk i s a mo ng the most co mm on ,

ad ultera tio ns b ut besid es this sa nd i ro n fili ngs hair

, , , , , ,

t he d ung of birds wax asph a lt um a nd m a ny oth e r

, , ,

s ubsta nces a re i ntrod uced Th ey a re m i x ed w i th a .

s mall portio n of mu sk the pow e rfu l od or of wh ich is

,

co mmuni cated to t he entire mass a nd rend ers t he dis ,

co v e ry of t he fra u d so me ti mes d i ffi c ult The bags con .

t ai ni ng the mu sk sho u ld hav e t he characte rist ics be fore

d escri bed a s b elo ngi ng to t he na tu ral sac a nd present ,

no sig n of havi ng b een op ened O ne of t he gross est .

fra uds wh ich is also p e rp etrat ed i n Eu rope co nsists

, , ,

accordi ng to Hager i n pe rforati ng t he mu sk sac w ith a

,

need l e placi ng i t i n stro ng r um or w eak S piri t of wi n e

, ,

a nd a ft e r pressi ng it wit h t he fi ng e rs wash i ng with spi ri t

, ,

of wi ne a nd dryi ng in the ai r By th is mea ns a ti nctu re .

s uitabl e for p erfum i ng p u rpos es is obtai ned whil e t he ,

m u sk s u bsta nce i s i ncreas ed i n w eight by t he absorpt io n

-

of moist ure S acs th us tr eated a re how ev er r eadily

.
, ,
1 84 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

r e cog niz ed th ey bei ng after dryi ng gnarl ed a nd un

, , ,

e v en .

G ood mu sk sa cs sh o u ld yi eld fro m 5 0 t o 60 per cent

-
.

of m usk A n ad m ixt u r e of bl oo d i s d etected by t he

.

m usk a cq u iri ng a p u trid odor w h e n m oi stened with

w at e r The p resence of pi ec es of m et al p ebbl es r esi n
.
, , ,

et c.
,
i s recogn i zed bv th e nak ed eye or w i t h t he assistance
of a magni fyi ng gl ass The m icro s cop e r e v ea l s in p ur e
.
,

m usk wh ite a nd bro w n ish i rr eg ularly for med gra i ns

, ,
-
,

c ells oi l drops and ge ne rally also fungoid threads

, , , ,
.

G e nui ne m u sk b u r ns wi th a wh ite fla me a nd l eav es a

gray ash whi ch sh o u ld not a mo u nt to m ore tha n fro m
,

5 to 8 p er ce nt .

I n p erfu mery mu sk i s used for soap sach et po wd ers , ,

a nd e xtrac ts By its elf it i s how e v er sc a rcely em pl oy ed

.
, , ,

not e v en for t he s o call ed m u sk soaps or m u sk extr acts

-
.

It i s ch i efly v al ued by t he p erfu me r for i ts prope rty of

r end e ri ng oth e r rfu m e s u s e d i n co m b i natio n with i t
p e

m or e d u r a bl e a nd bri ngi ng o u t th e i r scen t F or scen t .

i ng soaps the m u s k m u st fi rst be pre pared If to be .

us ed for m ill e d so a p s it i s trit ur at ed i n a m ortar w ith

,

cl ear s ugar wh il e for cold sti rr ed soaps w eak po tash

, ,

l ye of at t he u t m ost 3 t o 5 B é is po u r ed ov e r it ° °
. .

W ea k lye m a k es t he odor m ore pro nou nced whil e strong ,

l ye d estroys it .

Ci vet (zi bethum) i s d e ri v ed fr o m t w o a n i mals of t he

g enu s Vi verr a T he a ct ual ci v et ca t ( Viver ra civetta L )
.
,
.

l i v e s i n t he h ottest p a rts of A frica fro m the G ui nea C oast

a nd t he S eneg a l to A byssi n ia wh e re i t i s c a r e fully br ed ,

for it s civ et The prod uct is a l s o Obtai ned from Vi verr a

.

zi betha L i nd ig eno u s to t he M ol uccas and P hilippi nes

,
. .

The ci v et i s secr et ed i n a ca vity be t w een t he a nu s a nd

1 86 M A N U FA C T U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

vari es b etween a nd
i nch es t he width b et w een ,

a nd i nch es a nd the th ick ness b etween,

a nd i nch es ; it w eighs fro m to ozs One .

of t he s a cs is g enera lly so mewh at s mall er th an the oth er .

The ext erior ski n of t he sac i s al m ost s mooth a nd in a ,

dry sta te dark brow n the interi or is dirty v ell o w i nter

, ,

m ix ed with a d ens e c ell ul a r ti ss ue which env elops t he ,

ca ste r s u bsta nce and i s grow n togeth e r with i t I n a

-
.

dri ed state t he l atter i s dark brow n w ith o ut l ustre

, , ,

al m ost friabl e of a v ery stro ng p e cu li a r odor a nd a

, , ,

p u ngent som e wh at bitte r aro matic t aste

, ,
.

The sacs Of Ca nadi a n castor a r e s ma ll e r tha n the

S i b eria n th ey b e i ng a t t he u tm ost
,
i nch es lo ng ,

i nch thick a nd d a rk er a nd u nev en T he i nterior

,
.

m ass i s re si no us hard w ith a l ustro u s fract ure r ed

, , ,

brow n and ca n be r eadily p ul veriz ed T he odor is

,
.

w ea k er so m ewh a t m usty and a mmon iacal a nd t he taste

,

m or e bitt er and l ess p u ng ent tha n that of t he S iberia n

castor .

C astor is much ad ulterat ed — p ebbl es pi ec es of l ead , ,

dri ed blood etc b e i ng fr eq u ently fo u nd in the sacs

,
.
,
.

Th es e fra uds can g enerally be d etected in c utti ng t he sac

Op en; S p u rio u s sacs a re said to be freq u ent ly fo u nd
a m o ng t he g en ui ne s acs of C a nadia n castor Th es e .

sp u rio u s sacs are prepared by dry i ng a m ixt ure of castor ,

resi n dra go ns blood et c

,
i n t he scrot u m of goats
’
,
.
,
.

I n p erfu mery castor i s no w v e ry s eldo m us ed t he

, ,

p erfume rs preferri ng m u sk and ci v et which certai nl y , , ,

gi v e a so m ewhat di fferent scent .

A mberg r i s is a fatty waxy s u bsta nce oft en fo u nd float

, ,

i ng on t he s ea o n t he coasts of A rabia M ad agascar Japa n , , ,

et c
. It is also fo und i n the caec um of t he S p er m whal e
 P ER FU M E -
S U BS TA N C E S F R OM A N IM A L K I N G D OM . 187

( y
P h p )
s etus ma cr oce ha lus , S chow , a nd is s upposed by
so m e to be a morbid s ecretio n i n t he u ri nary bla d d e r .

A ccordi ng to M r B eal e i t m erely co nsists of t he i nd u

.
,

ra ted faeces of t he a n i mal p erh a ps so me what altered by ,

disease It has a gray whi te color ofte n wi t h a black

.
-
,

strea k a nd a sl ight agreea bl e odor lik e th at of b enzoin

.
, ,

which b eco m es more pro no unced o n h ea ti ng Wh en .

h eld for so me ti me in t he ha nd it b eco mes soft and

fl exi bl e It m elts at the temp erat ure of boil i ng w ater
.
,

a nd wh en m or e stro ngly h ea ted vol a tiliz es i n t he for m

, ,

of a wh ite vapor l ea vi n g bu t sl ight tra ces of as h b ehi nd

,
.

Its sp ecific gra vity i s to It i s i nsol ubl e i n

water spari ngly sol u bl e in cold S pi ri t of wi ne a nd
, ,

m o re r eadily so in h ot S pi ri t of w ine e th er a nd volatil e ,

a nd fat oils It i s al most co m pl et ely sol u bl e i n a bsol ute

.

alcoh ol Tho ugh a mb ergris cr u mbl es r eadily i t can

.
,

o nly with di ffic ulty be co nv erted i nto coars e powd er .

With t he fi ng er i t can be pol ish ed l i k e h a rd soda soap -

.

The pri ncipal co nstit uent Of a m b ergr i s I s a mb r in or

a mbr ei n a no n sapo nifia bl e fa t wh ich fro m a sat urated
,
-
, ,

alcohol ic sol utio n of a mb ergris crystalliz es a fter st a nd , ,

i ng for so m e ti me i n t he for m of v err ucos e whitish or

, ,

l ustro us acic ular crystals A ccordi ng to Joh n a m b ergri s .

,

co nsists of 8 5 p er c ent a mbr in p er c en t sw

. ee t ,
.

b a lsa m ic extract furth e r benzoi c aci d sodi um ch lorid e

, , ,

a nd er c e nt i nsol u bl e brow n r esid ue Wh en dis

p . .

till ed with w a ter a mb ergris yi elds 1 3 p er cent of a

,
.

vol atil e oil havi ng an agreeabl e odor A red h ot i ro n .

-

w ire r eadily p enetrates a mb ergri s and fro m t he hol e th u s ,

m ad e flows a n oily l iq u id of a stro ng a nd agr eeabl e

odor .

On acco unt of its h igh price a mb ergris is fr eq uently ,

1 88 M A N U F A C TU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

ad ult erated t he co mme rcial articl e b ei ng often noth i ng

,

b ut a n a rti fici a l m i xt ure of b enzoi n Oli ba n um wax and , , ,

flo u r wi th oth e r s u bsta nces p erfumed w ith m usk S uch

, , .

a d u lt e ratio n s a re d et ect e d by t he a pp eara nc e proportio n s ,

of sol u bility natu re of t he fra ct ure a nd the content of

,

ash A s ma l l q ua ntity of p u r e a m bergris exposed to

.
,

h eat m elts with o u t formi ng b ubbl es or scu m It is

,
.

ea sily p u nct u r ed with a h eated needl e which w h en , ,

wi th draw n sh o u ld co m e o u t cl ea n a nd w itho u t a nythi ng

,

adh eri ng to it a nd t he characte ristic Odor of a mbe rgris

,

sho u ld be i mm edi a tely e volv ed The s u rface sho uld be

.

r ugged th a t with a s m ooth and u n ifor m s urface b e i ng

,

generally factiti o u s .

I n p e rfum ery a m b ergri s is not so m u ch u s ed o n

,

a cco u nt of its a greeabl e odor b ut rath e r to m ak e t he

,

p erfumes m ore co nsta nt .

1 90 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

r es embl i ng that of t he l atte r b ut it co nt ai ned abo ut o ne

,

si xth cy mol wh ich it w as i m possibl e to rem ov e Tho ugh .

th u s far this artificial Oil of l e mo ns is of no i m porta nce

for p erfum ery it i s of i nte rest as showi ng t he possibility
,

of co nv e rti ng o ne volatil e oil i nto a noth e r .

“ ”
T he artificial m usk spok en of u nd er ,
M usk ca nnot ,

be cl a ss ed wit h t he pr e vio usly mentio ned artificial p er -

fumed materi a ls
-
The odori fero u s pri n cipl e of t he
.

nat u ral a nd a rti fici a l m u sk hav e n othi ng i n co m m o n ,

t he odor d ep endi ng not on a co m m o n ch em ical com

bi nati o n .

B esid es t he artificial p erfu me mat eria ls already men -

t io ned b u t a fe w oth e rs a re em ploy ed i n p erfum e ry

, ,

vi z : Cuma r in heli otr op in va nilli n a nd ni tr obenzol or

, , , ,

oi l o
f m i r ba ne A.n oth e r s e ri es of arti ficial p e rfu m e

mate ria ls t he s o call ed fr u i t eth ers h av e also b een

,
-
,

r eco m mend ed for p erfu mery p u rpos es A ltho u gh s uch .

prod ucts are so meti m es used th e ir employ m ent i s not ,

a dvis a bl e ,
si nce th ey prod uce an i rrita ti ng effect upo n
t he bro nchial t ub es a nd r espiratory orga ns and fr e ,

q uen tly ca u s e h ea dach e .

m
Cu a n r i — T he a gr eea bl e odor of new mow n hay i s -

ch i efly d u e to the sweet sc ented v er nal grass (A nthoxa n

-

thu m o d or a tum ,
Th is grass co ntai ns an odorifero u s
s ubsta nce the cuma r in The l a tter is a lso fo und i n
,
.

ma ny oth er plants for i nsta nce in t he to n ka b ea n (t he ,

seeds of D ip teri x od or a ta ) in the s weet woodr uff (A s,

a nd co m bi ned with mel il ot ic acid

p er u la o d o r a ta
) , , ,
i n

t he m elilot (M elilotu s ofiici na lis ,

C u m ari n for m s s mall colorl ess crystals of a sil ky

,

l ustre. It is v ery hard cracks b et w een the t eeth , ,

shows a s mooth fract ure and si nks in w ater It has ,

.
 A R TI F I C I A L P EE F U M E M A T ER I A L s
-
. 191

a v ery agreea bl e aro ma tic odor wh ich on r u bbi ng the , ,

s u bs t a nc e w ith t he fi ng ers b eco mes l ik e th a t of oi l of ,

bitt e r al mo nds a nd has a bi tte r warm and p ung ent taste

, , ,
.

Wh en p u r e i t melts a t F b u t wh e n co nt a i ni ng .
,

fa t l i k e th a t s ep a ra t ed fro m to n ka b ea ns at fro m 1 0 4
°
, ,

t o 1 22 F Its boil i ng poi nt l i es at 5 5 4 F ; i t vol a

°
.
°
.

t il izes how e v er at far lo w e r t e m p erat u r e s di ffusi ng a n

, , ,

Odor r e s em bl i ng that of o il of bitt e r al mo nds a nd s u b ,

l i ma t ing in wh it e needl es It i s sol ubl e i n alcohol .

,

eth e r ac etic acid fat a nd vol a til e oils

, ,
Of cold water
,
.

( F ) p a rts a re accordi ng to B u ch ne r r eq u i r ed
°
5 9 4 00 .
, ,

for i ts sol utio n b ut of boi li ng wate r o nly 4 5 parts

,
.

To nk a b ea ns a re the ri pe s eeds of D ip ter ix od or a ta .

Th ey a re m uch u sed i n p erfumery o n acco u nt of th ei r

co ntent of c umari n a nd for merly co nsti t ute d t he i niti a l
,

poi nt for its ma nufa ct ure I n co m merce two vari eti es .

a re disti ng u ish ed v iz D utch tonka bea ns d e ri ved fro m

, .
, ,

D ip ter ix od or a ta Wi lld i nd ig eno u s to t he forests of

,
.
,

G u i a na a nd Eng lis h tonka bea ns fro m D ip ter ix opp o

, ,

si tifol ia Wi lld i ndigeno us to Cayenne

,
.
,
.

The D utch to nka b ea n i s to i nch es lo ng ,

to i nch wid e and to i nch thick It

,
.

i s g e nerally slightly c urv ed provid ed und e r t he poi nt ,

with t he h il um and cov ered with a thi n fragil e brow n

, , ,

bl a ck or bl a ck ski n of a fatty l ustre upo n wh i ch s mall ,

crystals of c umarin a re g eneral l y fou nd S O that i t ap ,

p ea rs coated especial l y in t he wri nkl es wi th a wh itis h

, ,

d ust The k ernel co nsists of two y ellow brow nish ol eife

.
-

ro u s catyl ed o ns b etw een which lay ers of c umari n are

,

generally fo u nd T he odor i s agreeabl e r es em bli ng

.
,

th at of melilot a nd the taste aro matic bitter D utch

, .

to nka b ea ns co ntai n fat s ugar malic acid , and m al ate , ,

 92 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P E R F U M ER Y .

of l i me ; furth er starch gum a nd 1 to 5 p er cent of

, , ,
.

c u ma ri n (C H OQ The English to nka b ea ns are

Q G .

s mall er wh i te y ellowish i nsid e nea rl y black o utsid e

,
-
, ,

a nd of i n fe rior q u ality to t he D utch b ea ns .

F r o m t o nk a b ea ns c u mari n may be obtai ned by two

.
,

d i ffer en t methods One m ethod co nsists i n r ep eatedly

.

e xtrac t i ng t he br u is ed b ea n s with S pirit of wi ne distill ,

i ng t he latt er o ff fro m t he ex tract a nd m ixi ng t he r e s i ,

d ue w ith cold wat e r wh er eby c u mari n co nta m i nat ed

,

w ith fat is pr eci pita ted To r em ov e t he fa t bri ng t he

.
,

whol e to t he boili ng poi nt filt er t he hot sol uti o n ,

th ro ugh a moist filter u po n wh ich t he fat is r eta i ned ,

a nd allow to cool wh e r eby t he gr eat e r port io n of t he

,

c um ari n crysta lli z es o ut ; t he r ema i n i ng s mall portio n

is Obtai ned by e vapora ti ng t he m oth e r l ye -
.

A ccordi ng to t he oth er method t he br u is ed to nka ,

b ea ns a re distill ed with wate r A fte r 2 4 ho u rs t he .

great er portio n of t he c um ari n separates in a crystall i ne

f or m The res id ue re mai ni ng in sol utio n can be w ith
.

dra w n fro m t he wate r by sh a ki ng with p etrol e um eth er -

a nd s u bs eq u ent e v a p o ratio n of t he solv e nt F ro m one .

po u nd of good to nka b ea ns up to 4 drach m s of c umari n ,

m ay be obtai ned .

C u mari n is so meti me s also Obtai ned by p uri fyi ng by

r ecrystallizatio n t he d ebris fo und i n t he origi nal box es
of to n k a b ea ns w h ich chi efl y co nsists of c u mari n
,
.

P erki n has recently s u cc eed ed i n artific ially pr epari ng

c uma ri n fro m salicyl ic a cid By boili ng t he sod iu m .

salt of t he latter i n acetic a nhydrid e for a fe w m i nu tes

a nd th en po uri ng i nto wat e r a n o i l l ik e body is s epa ,
-

r a ted whilst sodi u m acetat e pass e s i nto sol utio n

,
Th e .

for me r is a m i x t u r e of acet ic a nhydrid e salicyl ic acid ,

1 94 M A N U F A C TU R E O F P ER FU M E R Y .

cli mates to at o nce dissolve the h eliotropi n i n alcohol

a nd to k eep t he sol u tio n i n a cool plac e .

P epp e r s erv es as t he i n iti a l poi nt for h eliotropi n or

pip ero nal t he wh ite vari ety b ei ng t he b est for t he p u r
,

pos e To Obtai n pip e ri ne co nta i ned i n varyi ng q uan

.
,

ti e s (7 to 9 per c ent ) i n p e pp e r t he l a tt er is r ep eatedly

.
,

e xtract ed with boil i ng a lcohol The e xtract i s th e n

.

e v a porat ed to o ne third its vol u me or t he great e r por

-
,

ti o n of t he alcohol is distill ed off a nd t he r esi no us m a ss

, ,

ob tai ned a ft er t he ad d iti o n of w at er i s rep ea tedly wash ed

,

i n w a ter wi t h t he additi o n of a s mall q ua ntity of po t a sh

or so d a lye dissolv ed in a lcoh ol a nd p urifi ed by r ep eat ed
,

r ecrystallizatio n To co nv ert t he wh ite y ello w pip eri ne

.
-

th u s Ob t ai ned i nto potassi um pip erat e it i s tog eth er w ith ,

e q ua l p a rts of potassi u m hy d roxid e a nd 5 to 6 parts of

alcohol k ept g ently boili ng for 2 4 ho urs i n a w ell clos ed

,
-

fl a sk provid ed w ith a n a sc endi ng L i e b ig cool er A ca .

acio us flas k sho uld be u s ed a s t he ma ss po unds q u it e

p ,

v igoro u sly A ft er cooli ng t he pr ecipit a t e w h ic h i s oh

.
, ,

fai ned i n y e llowish l ustro u s la mi na is s ep a rated thro u gh

, ,

a filt e r fro m t he dark brow n m oth e r l ye w a sh ed with

- -
,

cold alcoh ol a nd se v era l ti m es r ecrystalli z ed fro m hot

wat er A furth er discoloratio n m ay be effected by t he
.

a dditio n of a n i ma l ch a rco a l .

T he potassi um pip erat e t h u s obtai ned for ms nea rly

colorl ess pris ms i n v eru cose gro u ps wh ich how e v e r , , ,

t ur n y ellow wh en expos ed to l ight By boili ng t he .

alcoholic m oth er—lye with of t he previ o usly used pota sh

l ye furth er s mall q u a ntiti es of potassi um p ip erat e may
,

b e obta ined .

To obtai n pipero na l fro m t he pota ssi um pi p erat e dis ,

solv e 1 part of t he latt er in 4 0 to 50 p a rt s of hot w a te r ,

 A R TI F IC I A L P ER F U M E -
M A TER IA LS . 195

a nd th en slowly i ntrod uce with co nsta nt stirri ng a sol u

, ,

tio n of 2 parts pota ssi um p er mang anate in 5 0 p a rts of

wate r Thi s pr eca utio n i s absol ut ely necessary as oth er
.
,

wis e the pi p ero nal for med wo uld be partially furth er ox i

diz ed a nd lost The p a ste l i k e mass for med i s p a ss ed
.
-
,

wh il e still hot thro ugh a strai ni ng cloth a nd t he re sid ue

, ,

repeatedly w ash ed wit h boili ng wate r u ntil i t shows

n othi ng m or e of t he charact e risti c odor of h eliotrop e .

T he wash wate rs a re co mbi ned with t he fi rst filtrate

-
,

a nd s u bj ect ed to dist illatio n ov e r a free fire .

The fi rst distillates are rich est i n pip e ro nal i t g ener ,

ally s epa ra ti ng already i n t he cool er T he fracti o nally .

ca ught distill a te is a llow ed to st a nd o ne or two d ays in

as cool a place as possi bl e wh ereby t he greater portio n
,

of t he pip ero nal s eparate s in a crysta lli ne for m or i n fi ne

la m i na To obtai n t he pip ero nal still re mai ni ng dis
.

sol v ed in t he w a te r t he m oth e r l ye a fter t he s eparatio n

,
-
,

of t he crystals th ro ugh a fi lter m ay be rep ea tedly agi ,

t at ed with eth e r wh ere by t he pip ero nal dissol v es i n t he

-
,

eth e r. T he latte r is care fu lly distill ed o ff at as l o w a

tempera tu r e as possi bl e (1 0 4 to 1 2 2 F ) i n t he wat er ° °
.

bath or allo w ed nat urally to e vaporate .

Va n llin
i — Va nilla i s t he not enti re ly rip e pod l ik e
.
,
-
,

caps ular fr u it (wro ngly ca ll ed pod ) of a tropical orch i d ,

a nifo li a
( V a ni lla
p l A nd r ews
) wh
,
ich i s c u ltivat ed i n,

M e xico t he West I ndi es a nd S o uth A merica

'

, ,
It i s .

e xt ens iv ely u s e d for flavori ng a nd its odorife ro u s s ub

,

sta nce i s h ighly val ued in p erfumery The cross secti o n .

-

of the caps ul e is thick and fl eshy fill ed w ith v ery s mall , ,

bl a ck l ustro us seeds stuck togeth er by a g ummy balsa m

,

with which th ey are coated The caps ul e has a so u rish .

tast e a nd has no val ue the s eeds or rath er t he balsa m

, ,
1 96 M AN U FA CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y
en v elopi ng t he s eeds b e i ng t he s ubsta nce on whi ch the
,

odor a nd taste of vani lla d ep end Wh en t he va nilla .

fr u it b eco mes ri p e t he c aps u l e op ens a nd e mpti es it s

,

co ntent of s eeds in the for m of a ba lsa m— li k e mass .

T he l ustro us black brow n s u r fa c e of va n illa i s

-

freq uently coated with whi te d el icate crystals whic h , ,

w ere formerly tak en for b enzoic acid Bl ey and V ee .

fi rst r ecog n iz ed th e m as a p ec uli a r s u bsta nce w h ich wa s ,

furth er ex a m i ned by G obl ey a nd S t okkebye Th is s u b .

sta nce to wh ich G obl ey appl i ed t he ter m va nillin is t he

, ,

ch ief ord or iferous s u bsta nce of va ni lla It is d eposited .

u po n t he va n illa crystals -
wh en the latte r are d ensely ,

a nd clos ely pack ed tog eth e r a nd for so m e ti me e xpos e d

to a h eat of abou t 7 7 F Of va n illi n vanill a co ntai ns

°
.
,

to er cen t ; t he M exica n vari e ty co ntai n i ng

p .

to p er c e nt t he B o u rbo n N O I
.
,
to .
,

p er c ent . B o
,
urbo n N 0 II to p .er c e nt a nd
,
.
,

t he Java ,
to p er c ent It i s si n g u lar that t he .
,

h ighly val ued M e xica n v a nilla has generally sp eaki ng , ,

a low er co ntent of va nilli n tha n the oth er vari eti es .

A t pres ent va nilli n i s prep a r ed arti ficially

,
Ti em a nn .

a nd Har m a n n first show ed that by t he oxidatio n of

co niferi n a gl u cosid e occ urri ng in t he ca m bi a l s ap of t he

,

Conifer oe a prod u ct p e rfectly id en tical with the va nilli n

, ,

pr epa red fro m v an illa is obtai ned The co nife ri n is

,
.

ob t ai ned by barki ng t he p i ne or sil ve r fir scrapi ng ,

tog eth er t he sap unde r t he bark tog eth er with a port io n

of t he libe r and po uri ng it i nto a v essel T he sap i s .

th en press e d o ff boil ed to separate t he al b um i n fi l tered

, , ,

e v a porate d to one fift h i ts vol ume

-
a nd s et a sid e to ,

crystalliz e One h u ndred q u arts of s ap a re said to yi eld

.

fro m 1 to 2 po u nds of co n i feri n cryst a ls By no w -

.
1 98 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

e th er chlorofor m fat a nd vol a til e oils as w el l as in

, , ,

sol uti o ns of cau stic alkal i es and alkali ne carbo nates It .

melts wh en h ea ted to fro m 1 7 6 to F ; at a

°
.

high e r t e mp era t u re i t s ubl imates witho ut l eavi ng a

r esid ue .

“
A ccordi ng to a n oti ce p u blish ed in t he D eutsch
A m e rika nisch e n A p ot hek e r "e it u ng va ni lli n ad ultera ted
”
,

wi th b enzoic a cid ha s occ u rr ed i n t he U ni ted S tates A .

sa m pl e s ubj ect e d to ex a mi nati o n i s said to ha ve b een

n oth i ng b ut b en zoic a cid p e rfumed wi t h va ni lli n S uch .

a n ad ulte ratio n ca n be d et e ct ed with t he m icroscop e

,

s inc e va n illi n crystal liz e s i n acicu lar crystals and ben ,

zoic a ci d in lam i na wh ich can b e readily recog n iz ed

, .

P u re va nilli n melts at 1 7 6 F wh il e t he melti ng poi nts

°
.
,

of s uch m i xt u res are co nsid e rably h igh er it b eing i n ,

o ne cas e a t 2 4 9 F By e xtracti ng s uch m ixt ure with

°
.

th i n sodi u m carbo na t e sol utio n b en zoic aci d pass es i nto ,

sol uti o n A fter neu tral izi ng with hydrochloric a cid t he

.
,

filtrate yi elds with ferric ch l orid e a faw n brow n p recipi -

tate of ferri c b enzoate a nd on add i ng hydrochlori c acid

,

i n e xcess t he b enzoic acid wh ich dissolv es with g r eat

, ,

di ffic ulty in cold water is preci p i t ated By treati ng t he

,
.

latter or t he ferri c b en zoate wit h dil ut e s ulph uric acid

, ,

a nd m a g nesi u m t he b en zoic a cid i s r ed u ced to b enz a l

,

d ehyd e wh ich is r e cog n i z ed by it s ch a racte ri stic odor

,

o f oil of bitt e r al m o nds .

N itr o benzol i s obt a i ned by treati ng b enzol or a m i x ,

t ure of it with tol u ol a nd th e ir high er ho m olog ues wi th

, ,

stro ng n itri c acid or a m ixt ure of n itric a nd s ul ph u ric

,

a cids wa shi ng t he prod uct of r ea cti o n with water a nd

,

soda ca usti c soda or a mm o ni a e xp elli ng t he u n al tered

, ,

hydrocarbo ns with stea m and rectifyi ng the r esid ue

'

.
 A R TI FIC I A L P ER FU M E -
M A TE R IA LS . 1 99

Three vari eti es disti ng uish ed by th ei r boili ng poi nts a nd

odor Occu r in co m m erc e T he nitrobe nzol or oil of
.

m i rbane (es s ence d e mi r ba ne) i s t h e s o call ed lig ht ni tr o -

benzol which boils at fro m 4 0 1 to 4 1 5 F The ° °

.
,

hea vi er vari eti es boi l at a h igh e r t e mp era t u r e a nd h av e

a m ore or l e ss dis agre ea bl e Odor ; th ey a re u s ed i n t h e

m a nu fa ct ur e of a nili ne a nd a n ili ne colors .

P ur e oi l of m ibra ne i s pal e y ello w t he fi nest q ual iti es ,

b ei ng colorl ess a nd al most as cl ea r as water It ha s a n .

a greea bl e odor r es e m bl i ng that of oi l of bi tte r a l mo nds ,

a sp ecific gravity of to 2 5 B é a nd co n °
.
,

geals at 3 74 F to a crystalli ne mass It i s scarcely

°
. .

sol ubl e in wa t e r spa ri ngly so i n a lco hol a nd with di lfi

,

c ul ty i n wat e ry S i rit of wi ne ; i t i s m is cibl e i n al l pro

p
portio ns with eth er b enz ine volatil e oils a nd most fa t
, , ,

oi ls
.

O il of m irb a ne is la rg ely m a nu fa ct u re d i n E ngla nd ,

b ut t he G e r ma n pro d uct i s no w g enerally pre fe rr ed i t ,

b ei ng p ure r a nd do es not i mp a rt to so a p p erfum ed w ith

i t a y ello w ish ti nge T he fi nest oi l of m irba ne i s p re
.

p a red fro m p u re c rv s ta l liza bl e b enzol a nd agai n p u rifi ed ,

by wash i ng with potassi um bichro mate a nd s ulph u ric

acid and by r ecti fica ti o n with stea m
,
.

P ur e n itrob enzol s uffe rs n o cha ng e by boili ng wi t h

sod a l v e whil e t he poorly rectifi ed prod uct colors the
,

lye y ello w or bro w n .

N it ro benzol i s freq uently ad ul t era te d with spi rit of

wi ne which i s recog ni z ed by shaki ng t he oi l w ith fat
,

oil of a l mo nds ; i n t he pres ence of spiri t of wi ne a t u r

bid m ixt u re i s for med By S hak i ng n itrob enzol con
.

ta ini ng S pirit of wi ne with a n eq ual vol u me of wate r

i n a grad uated cyli nd e r its vol u me d ecreas es
,
.
2 00 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

Oil of m irba ne i s m uch u s ed for p erfum i ng soaps but ,

e v en t he fi ne st q u a l ity of it ca n not r epl a ce oi l of bitt e r

a l m o nds for fi ne soaps a nd p e rfu m e ry G r ea t car e h as .

to be exercis ed in stori ng as w ell as in worki ng n itro

, ,

b en zol it ig niti ng v e ry readily a nd i t is also poiso no us

, , .

E v e n t he vapors wh en i nh a l e d for so me ti me m ay pro

, ,

d uce sy m p t o m s of poiso ni ng wh ic h co nsist i n t he ski n

,

a cq u iri ng a l ead en color a nd h ea vy feel i ngs i n t he li mbs

,

w ith cold extr em iti e s esp e c ia lly t he h a nds a nd feet

, .

F R U I T ET H E R S A t t he L o ndo n Exh i bitio n i n 1 85 1

.
, ,

vari o u s prod ucts ca ll ed a ppl e oil p ea r oi l pi ne a ppl e oil, ,

-
,

etc . w ere sh ow n Th ey w er e ex a m i ned by A W Ho f

,
. . .

ma n n a nd fo und to co nsist of sol utio ns of c e rta i n eth ers

,

i n a lcohol S inc e th en the m a nu fa ct u re has greatly in

.

creas ed a nd larg e q ua ntiti es a re no w b ro ught i nto co m

m erc e u nd e r t h e na me of fr u it ethers or fr u i t es s ences .

F r u it eth ers a r e fl u ids pos s essi ng a n agreeabl e r e fresh ,

i ng odor clos ely re s e mbli ng that of so me fr uits For .

th is rea so n th ey a re used in co n fect io ne ry i n t he ma nu ,

fa ct u re of l iq ueu rs a nd also as a s ubstit u te for volatil e

Oils i n t he ma n ufa ct u r e of p e rfu me ry
,
C h e m ically fr u i t
.
,

e th e rs a re co m b natio s of a
i n n n —
orga i c acid acetic b u t y ,

, ,
— —
ric val e ria n i c etc w ith a s o call ed a lcohol radicl e s uch ,

as ethyl a nd a myl T he prepara tio n of fr u it eth e rs b e i ng

.

co nne cted with m a ny d iffic ulti es i s s el d o m attem pted by,

p erfumers esp eci ally a s prod ucts of a n ex cell ent q uality

,

ca n at a l o w rate b e proc ur ed fro m ch e m ic a l l a boratori es

m ak i ng a sp ecia l t v of th ei r m a nufa ctu re H ow e v er for .

,

t he sak e of co mpl eteness a bri e f d escriptio n of t he fa bri

,

cati o n of the pri ncipal eth ers us ed i n th e ir preparatio n

shall h ere be gi v en .
202 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

acid always co ntai ns 5 or 6 per cent of wate r this has to be .

,

tak en i nto co nsid eratio n a nd 1 0 5 to 1 0 6 parts of it hav e

,

to be us ed in or d e r to d eco m pos e t he entire q uantity of

sodi u m acetate The cr ud e sodi um a cetate fo u nd i n com
.

merc e m ay be u s ed It i s nearly wh i te a nd at t he ut
.

m ost co nta m i nated by trac es o f s u lph uric acid a nd

chlori ne which i n th i s cas e a re not i nj urio us T he
,
.

c rvs ta l l i ze d salt i s hea t ed i n a n i ro n k ettl e wh er e by i t

melts i n its wate r of crystalliz a ti o n Wi t h co nsta nt .

sti rri ng t he w ater i s th en co m pl etely e v a po rated u ntil

a n e nt i r ely dry m ass of s a lt r e m a i n s b e hi nd The l a tter .

m ay b e q u ite stro ngly h eat ed witho ut fear of d estroyi ng

t he ac etic a cid The dri ed sal t i s i mmedi a t ely powd er ed
.
,

pass ed th ro ugh a m ed i u m fine si ev e and k ept for us e

i n w ell clos ed v ess els
-
.

On a large scal e t he distill a tio n of t he eth e r m ay

b e effect ed i n a n i ro n k ettl e which i s prov id ed with a
,

w ell fitt ing l id a nd co nnect ed by a copp er h ead with a

-

—
cooli ng a pparat us a wor m lyi ng i n cold water B ri ng .

i nto t he k ettl e t he r eq u i red q ua nt i ty of co nc e ntrated s ul

h u r ic a cid add with V igoro u s stirri ng t he alcoh ol a nd
p , , ,

allo w t he mi xt u re to r est for 2 4 h o u rs Th en throw t he .

d r v sodi um ac et a te i n to t he m ixt ure m ix i t t horo ughly , ,

by stirri ng with t he ethyl s u lph uric ac id a nd a ft e r

, , ,

l uti ng all t he j oi nts of t he a ppara tus h eat a t first m od e ,

r a te l D istillatio n proc eed s q u i etly a nd un i for m ly

y.
,

t he fi re b e i ng r eg u l at ed accordi ng to how t he e th e r r u ns
off fro m t he wor m S uch u ni for m distillatio n is how e v e r
.
, ,

o nly a tt a i ned by t he us e of the sod i u m a cetate i n t he

form of powd e r a nd thoro ughly m ixi ng it with t he aci d
,
.

If l a rg e pi eces of t he s alt a re pres ent or the pow d ered

salt balls tog eth er t he for matio n of et her so meti mes tak es
,
 A R TI F I C I A L P ER FU M E -
M A TE R I A LS . 20 3

pl a ce so s ud d enl y th a t t he v a pors ca nnot co nd ens e in the

cool i ng app a rat us bu t escap e v iol ently or i f th ey ca nnot
, ,

esc a p e r apidly fro m t he co nd ens e r m ay e v e n b u rst t he ,

a pp a rat us . The r easo n for this is th at t he l a rg er pi ece s

float i n the s upe rh eated a cid wi tho u t b ei ng sat urated by
it a nd wh en th ey s udd enly collapse for m a m ass of
, , ,

e th er v a pors
-
.

D i still a tio n i s co nti nued u nti l that wh ich a t l a st pass es

ov er is not i nfla mmabl e W ith t he a bov e me ntio ned
.
-

proportio ns 88 parts of acetic eth er a re for med but a s ,

so me water always p a sses ov er d istill atio n need not be ,

i nt err upt ed u nti l t he r ec e i v e r co ntai ns a t l eas t 9 0 parts

of cr ud e eth er .

The cr ud e eth er always co ntai ns m ore or l ess wat er ,

so m e alcoh ol a nd a s mall q ua ntity of free ac etic acid

,
.

With t he abov e me ntio ned proporti o ns t he co nte nt of

-
,

alcohol ca n h ow e v er be o nly v ery s ma ll To ne utraliz e

, ,
.

t he ac etic a cid add so me b u r nt m ag nesia or S hak e w ith

,

ca rbo nate of so d a sol utio n unti l t he acid r ea cti o n d isa p

p ea rs F or t he absorptio n of t he wate r a nd alcohol add
.
,

as m u ch S harply dri ed (not fused ) calci um ch lorid e as

t he fl uid will dissol v e a nd th en l et it sta nd w ith a n
,

e xc ess of t he salt for o ne day The c a lci u m chlori d e

.

co m bi nes w ith t he wate r a nd a lcoh ol a nd separa tes a s a

h ea v y l ay er b enea th t he eth e r T he latte r is d eca nted .

o ff a n d bro u gh t i n to a r ecti fyi ng v e ss el — a copp e r still ,

h eat ed by st ea m and provid ed wi th a cooli ng pip e T he

,
.

e th e r i s distill e d o f f a t a m od erat e h eat t he last porti o n , ,

abo u t b e i ng ca ught i n a sp ecial r ece i v er to be agai n ,

r ectifi ed a t t he next op eratio n .

A ccordi ng to G r osss ch0 p f 4 0 lbs of p ul v e riz ed a nhy

,
.

d ro us sod ium acetat e tog eth er with a cool ed m i x tu re of

,
204 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

46 lbs of co ncentr a ted s ulph u ric acid a nd 3 7 l bs of 9 5

. .

p e r c e nt alcoh ol. fr ee fro m fu s e l oil

,
a r e d istill e d i n a ,

copp e r still h ea ted by stea m D istillatio n is co nti n ued .

with co nsta nt sti rri ng by mea ns of a n apparatu s i n t he

still u ntil no m or e fl u id s melli ng a nd tasti ng of acetic
,

e th er pass es ov er The cr ud e disti ll a te a mo unti ng to 5 5

.
,

or 5 6 lbs i s bro ugh t i nto bottl es which a re fi ll ed full

.
, .

The bottl es a re th en fill ed u p with wate r a nd potassi um

carbo nate i s add ed u ntil th e fl uid a ft er sh a k i ng shows , ,

n o a cid r eactio n The a q ueo us fl u id b eneath t he e th er

.

i s th en draw n Off by mea ns of a sipho n a nd t he eth er ,

s e v eral ti mes wash ed by shaki ng wi th w a ter a nd a llow

i ng to s ettl e S i nce t he wash w a te r absorbs a q u it e con
.
-

s id e r abl e q u a n tity of eth e r it i s coll ect e d a nd s ubject e d

,

to r ectificatio n w h ereby an alcoholic a ce ti c eth er is o h

,

t a ined T he eth e r b ei ng freed fro m acetic acid and

.
,

alcohol by ne utra lizatio n and w a sh i ng is bro ught i n ,

co ntact with fus ed calci um chlorid e to free i t fro m

wa te r a nd fi nally r ectifi ed ov er mag nesi a I n thi s
,
.

m a nne r 3 6 to 3 7 lbs of p u re a ceti c eth e r a re obtai ned

. .

A c etic eth er i s a cl ear colorl ess fl u id of a pl easa nt

, ,

e th er a l Odor It boils at . F a nd a t 5 9 F i t s .
,
°
.

sp ecific gra vity i s P u re ac etic eth er d issol v es

i n 1 1 to 1 2 parts of wat e r ; a co nt ent of alcohol or t he
ad d iti o n of w a t e r i ncr ea s e s its sol ubility H e nc e i ts .
,

sol ubility in water i s a cr i terio n of its p u rity .

B enzoi c ether or ethyl benzoa te C7 H O OC H is m ost , s

.
, 5,

r eadily prepar ed by m ixi ng 4 parts of alcohol 2 parts ,

of crystall iz ed b enzoi c a cid and 1 part fum i ng hydro ,

chloric acid and for som e ti me beat ing t he m ixt ure in a

,

fl a sk . T he b enzoi c acid is th er e by grad ua lly a nd c om

l et el co nv e rted i nto eth er T h e fl u id is m i x e d with
p y .
2 06 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

addi ng 5 % lbs of s ulph u ric acid dil uted with a n eq ual

.
,

vol um e of w a te r b utyric acid i s s eparated as a d a rk

,

colored oily mass .

T he cr u d e b u tyric a cid th us obta i ned a nd freed fro m

water by sh a ki ng with calci um chlorid e is a m i xt u re of ,

acetic b utyric a nd ca pric acids bu t do es not co ntai n

, , ,

propi o n ic a nd val eri a n ic acids To Obtai n fro m i t pu re .

b u tyric acid fra cti o nal distill a tio n is r eq u i red F o r

,
.

m a nufa ct u ri ng o n a l a rg e scal e a copp er disti lli ng appa ,

rat u s with sil ver h ead a nd silv e r cool i ng pip e is used ,

t he b ulb of a th er m o me t e r b ei ng pl a c ed in t he h ead In .

t he first r ecti fica t i o n t he r e c e i v er is ch a ng ed aft er t he

,

th er mo meter ha s risen to 3 1 1 F t he portio n passi ng °

ov er b etw een 3 1 1 a nd 3 2 9 F i s ca ught up by its elf

° °
.
,

a nd t he r ec e i v e r b e i ng a gai n cha ng ed d isti ll a tio n is co n ,

ti n ned u ntil fi ni sh ed T he first distillat e co nta i ns m ostly

.

acetic a cid b e s id es a s m all q u a ntity of b utyric a cid t he

, ,

s eco nd t he greater port io n of t he b utyric aci d b esid es

a littl e acetic a nd ca pri c a cids wh il e t he thi rd co nsis t s ,

ch i efly of capric acid F o r prepa ri ng b utyri c eth er for

.

tech ni ca l p u rpos es t he fractio n passi ng ove r b etween

,

3 1 1 a nd 3 2 9 F is s uffi ci ently p ur e
° °
. To Obtai n ch em i .

cally p u re b utyric acid t he rectificatio n of t he portio n

,

p assi ng ov e r betw een 3 1 1 a nd 3 2 9 F is in the sa m e ° °

.

m a nner r ep eated u nti l fi na lly a prod uct with a co nsta nt

,

boil i ng poi nt at F is obta ined . .

B utyric acid fe r m entatio n proc eeds mor e rapidly by

u si ng i nst ead of rott en ch ees e p u t re fyi ng meat a nd i n
, , ,

place of s ugar starch paste or mash ed boi l ed potato es

, ,

1 part of m eat to 4 p a rts of starch or a corr espo ndi ng

q ua ntity of potato es bei ng em ploy ed The s a me pro .

d ucts a re for med as in the preced ing process but mu ch ,

 A R TI F I C I A L P ER FU M E -
M A TE R I A L S . 20 7

m ore rapidly fe r mentatio n b ei ng fi nish ed accordi ng to

, ,

S ch u b ert in 5 t o 6 d a y s
,
.

B utyric acid C H O OH or C3 H7C OOH is a liq u id

, 4 ,
.
, ,

of a v e ry so u r taste a nd odor a nd at a n i ntens e cold co n ,

g ea ls to a crystalli ne m ass wh ich melts at 3 2 F I n a °

.

p u re state i t boils a t F It i s sol u bl e i n w a ter

.
,

b u t s ep a ra t es ag a i n i f sol u bl e salts a re add ed to th i s sol u

tio n Its sp eci fic gravity after b e i ng co m pl etely fr eed
.
,

fro m w a t er i s ,

B esid es t he nor m al b u tyric acid th ere i s k now n ,

a noth er o ne call ed is obyter i c a ci d or di methyl a ceti c a ci d .

It i s di sti ng u ish ed fro m t he n or mal acid bv b ei ng l ess

sol u bl e in w a ter a nd by its boili ng point which li es at ,

F . It occ u rs i n S t Joh n s brea d or carob in .

’
,

t he volati l e oi l fro m A r ni ca monta na a nd in cro t o n Oil .

B u tyr i c ether is for m ed by m ix i ng 2 p a r t s of b utyri c

acid wi th 2 parts of alcohol a nd 1 p a rt of s ulph u ric
a cid . The fl uid i s h eat ed to 1 7 6 F a nd aft e r b e i ng °
.
, ,

for s ev eral ho u rs k ept at that temp era t u re i s po ured ,

i nto cold w at er wh er eby t he eth er s ep a rates as a n oily

,

fl uid It is th en s ep a rated fro m t he aq ueo us sol utio n

.
,

wash ed wi t h wat e r to wh ich so me chal k has been add ed

for t he neutra l iza tio n of t he fr ee acid a nd fi nally t he ,

w a ter is withdra w n fro m t he eth e r by for s ev eral d ays , ,

l e avi ng it in co ntact wit h calci u m chlori d e To obtai n .

i t entirely p ure i t i s o nly necessary to dis t il i t o nce It

,
.

form s a cl ear v ery m ob il e fl uid of a pi ne appl e odor

,
-
,

a nd a sp ecific gra vity of It boils at F .

C o mm ercial b utyric eth er larg e q ua ntiti es of wh ich ,

are u s ed for t he pr eparat io n of t he s o call ed i n l

p e a
pp e - -

ether or ess ence i s s eldo m p u re i t bei ng g enera lly ob

, ,

ta i ned fro m S i m ply r ectifi ed b utyric acid A ccordi ng to .

 208 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

a noth er method which is h ow ev er not as profitabl e i t is

, , , ,

obtai ned by distilli ng b utte r so ap with alcohol a nd s ul -

p h ur ic acid F.o r th is p u rpos e bri n g 2 0 po u n ds of ,

b utter so a p c ut up in s mall pi eces i nto a di still i ng a p pa

-
, ,

rat us po u r ov e r i t 1 0 po unds of 9 0 p er cent alcohol

, .

a nd h ea t m o d e r a t e ly u nti l t he soap i s dissolv ed S i nc e .

a portio n of t he a lcohol e vapor a t es th er e by add 1 0 ,

pou nds more of alcohol and th en 2 0 po unds of s u lph u ric

acid On furth er h ea ti ng a fl uid of a v ery agreea bl e
.
,

odor distils ov er wh ich i s a n alcoh olic sol uti o n of t he

,

eth e rs of t he volatil e a cids fo u nd i n b u tt e r Towards .

t he end of t he op er a ti o n i n co ns eq uenc e of t he fu rth er

,

progress of d eco mposi t io n a d e v elop ment of s ulph u ro u

,

a cid g ene rally tak es plac e This i s r e mov ed fro m the

.

distill at e by allowi ng it to remai n for s e v eral days in

co nta ct with fi nely p ul v eriz ed pyrol usit e (p eroxid e of
-

m a nga nes e ) a nd r ectifyi ng ov er b u r nt m ag nesi a I II t he .

first distillatio n t he h eavy vol atil e acids of t he b u tter

,

r emai n b eh i nd ; th ey are freed fro m the e xc ess of s ul

h u r ic aci d a nd t he s ul phat e of sodi u m or pot assi um by
p
wash i ng with h ot wat er a nd can be u tiliz ed in t he
,

m a nu fact u re of soap .

The b u tyric eth er Obtai ned fro m b u tt er soap is fa r -

fro m b e i ng p ure b u tyri c eth er it co ntai n i ng b esid es it , , ,

a m ixtu re of vari o u s k i nds of eth er d eriv ed fro m the

volatil e a cids— caproic ca pric a nd capryli c acids Ho w
, ,
.

e v e r th es e vari e ti es o f eth e r poss ess si m il a r prop erti es

,

to that of b u tyric acid i n alcohol ic sol utio ns th eir taste

a nd odor a re nea rly ali k e a nd h enc e ca n be em plo yed
,

i n this m i xt u re for t he pr ep a ra tio n of ess ences of a n

agreea bl e odor and taste .

A s u itabl e material for t he pre paratio n of b u tyric

2 10 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

t he distill a t e obtai ned th er eby b ei ng still ri ch i n b u tyri c

eth e r.

’
T he S t Joh n s br ead u s ed sh o uld be of t he b est
.

q uali ty fr ee fro m worm s a nd mo uld as oth erwi se t he

, ,

e th e r wo u ld no t poss ess t he p u r e agr ee abl e odor char ,

a cte r i s t ic of b u tyric et h e r .

F orm i c ethyl ether or ethyl for ma te , ,

Th is eth er is also m uch m a nu fa ct ured for the pr ep a ra

tio n of the s o call ed ess ences w h ich a re employ ed for
-

t he p u rpos e of i m itati ng t he odor of pla nts fr u its et c , ,

.

It i s formed by t he actio n Of for m i c acid upo n alcohol ,

or by bri ngi ng eth yl s u lph u ri c acid or a m i xt ur e of a l ,

cohol a nd s ulph uric acid in co ntact w ith for mat es or, ,

fi na lly by bri ngi ng for m ic a cid at t he m o ment of it s

for matio n in co nta ct w ith a lcoh ol .

The m ost si m pl e proc ess i s that r eco mmend ed by

L ori n
I nto a ca p a cio u s d istilli ng app a ra t us co nnected with
t he cooli ng pi p e so that t he di still a te co nsta ntly flows
,

back bri ng 1 part by w eight of glyceri n of t he co n

, , ,

si stency of syr up a d d %
of its w eight of crystalliz ed
, 7

oxal ic a cid a nd t he sa m e q uanti ty of alcoh ol of 90 to

9 5 p er cent With m od era te h eati ng a vigoro u s d ev el
.

O me nt of a s soo n tak e s pl a ce T he oxalic a cid i n

p g .

co ntact wi th t he glyce ri n S plits i nto for mic a cid a nd

ca rbo n ic acid accordi ng to t he followi ng eq uatio n
,

C HOO H C O,

x
O al i c aci d . F or m i c aci d . Ca r b on i c a ci d .

The glyceri ne do es not und ergo alteratio n t h ereby .

T he n asc ent for m i c acid co n v e rts t he alcohol pres e nt

 A R TI F I C IA L P ER FU M E -
M A TE R IA LS . 211

i nto for mi c eth er water b e i ng s eparated Wh en after

,
.
,

co nti nued h eati ng t he d ev elop ment of carbo nic acid

,

a bat es add t he s a m e q u a ntiti es of ox a l ic acid a nd a lco

,

hol to t he co ntents of the still h eat aga i n until b ut l ittl e ,

carbonic acid i s evol ved a nd th en a dd twice i n s u cc es

, ,

sio n t he s a m e q u a ntiti es of oxal ic acid a nd alcoh ol as

,

b e fore u ntil fi nally as m uch oxalic acid is cons um ed as

,

glyceri n has been employ ed Wh en t he e vol utio n of .

carbo nic acid ceases t he r ecei v er i s re v ers ed a nd t he

,

e th er distill ed o ff The glyce ri n r emai n i ng b ehi nd is

.

agai n co nc entrat ed to t he cons is te nc f syr u p a nd m a

y O .
y ,

—
be r e u s ed .

The distillat e i s fr eed fro m free acid by t he add iti o n

of m ag nesia a nd the a lcoh ol and water a re s eparated by
,

s hak i ng with ca l ci u m chlorid e aft er which t he p u re ,

e th e r i s obt a i ned by r ectificatio n .

F or m ic eth er is colorl ess thi nly fl uid of a pl easa nt ,

-
,

s mell sp eci fic gravity

,
boili ng poi nt 1 3 0 F °
.
,

sol u bl e i n cold water and m iscibl e in e v ery proporti o n

,

with a lcohol and eth er .

N ti r o u s et e or et yl n tr i te C 2 H ON O
h r h i — I n a p u re .
,
.
, 5

state th is et h er is b est pr epared accordi ng to t he method

gi v en by E K opp It co nsi sts in bri ngi ng eq ua l vol
. .

u mes of a lcohol a nd ordi na ry n itric a cid tog eth e r wi th

copp er fili ngs i nto a distilli ng app a ratu s wh ich i s so ,

arra nged that t he vapors first pass thro ugh a fl ask fill ed
with wate r of 7 7 F th en th ro ug h a calci um chlorid e
°
.
,

t ub e a nd are fi nally co nd ens ed i n a r ec e iv e r s u rro u nd ed

,

by s now and co m mo n salt The nitric acid i s first d e .

co mposed by t he copp er n itro u s acid b ei ng th ereby d e,

v el oped wh ich i s so transpos ed that its radicl e N O

,

occu pi es the pos it io n of t he typical hydrogen i n the

2 12 M A N U FA C T U R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

alcoh ol wh il e t he r est of t he acid for ms water with t he

,

hydrog en of t he alcoh ol By t he r ea cti o n s uch a q u an

.

tity of h ea t is lib erated th a t t he process r eq u ires assist

a nc e by exte rna l h ea ti ng o nly towards t he e nd of t he

op erati o n I n the recei v e r is th e n a pal e y ellow fl u id

.

h a vi ng the t a ste and odor of appl es a nd a t 5 9 F a ,

°
.
,

sp eci fic gra vi ty of A ccordi ng to L i e big t he ,

boili ng poi nt of nitro us eth er l i es at 6 1 5 F h ence °

.

it ca n be co nd ensed o nly by carefu l cooli ng a nd has to ,

be kept i n glass t u b e s fus ed tog eth er I n water it is .

b u t spari ngly sol u bl e bu t r eadily so i n alcohol

,
By .

t he additio n of w at er it is s eparat ed fro m t he alcoh olic

so l utio n .

M oh r has m odi fi ed K opp s meth od as follows : M i x ’

alcoh ol of S p eci fic gravity wat e r a nd nitric acid , ,

of sp eci fic gravity each 2 4 part s and add 4 parts

,

of copp er fili ngs Of th is m i x t ur e draw off 2 4 p a rts of

.

distillate m ix t he l a tter with lit mus ti nct ure and neu

,

t ra l ize t he free aci d by addi ng drop by drop sol utio n , ,

of ca usti c potash or so d a until t he lit m us ti nct ur e be

co mes bl ue R ecti fy t he distill at e and catch of it 8
.

p a rts C o mpo und t he latter with 1 6 p a rts alcohol of

.

sp eci fic gravity wh ereby the prod uct i s mad e eq ua l

,

to t he q u a ntity of alcohol origi na lly u s ed The prod u ct .

i s k ept in glass es holdi ng fro m 2 to 3 ozs each Thi s . .

a lcoholic n itro u s eth e r i s of a y ellow color v ery stro ng ,

a nd has a p u r e odor .

I n Engla nd a nd A m erica nitro us eth er i s m uch us ed ,

for aro matizi ng w hiski es a nd for oth e r p u rpos es A o .

cordi ng to S ti nd e it is prepared on a large sca l e as

*

follows

Di ngl er ’
s P ol y t Jou r n
. .
,
1 84 , 3 6 7 .
2 14 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

car e b ei ng had that the eth e r passes ov er in a n u ninter

r u ted str ea m of t h e th ick ness of a goos e q u il l
p
-
.

Wh en with t he ad m issi o n of t he s a me a mo unt of

,

stea m t he di sti llat e com mences to r un drop by drop t he

, ,

st ea m cock is closed a nd the Op eratio n interr upted th is

-
,

bei ng t he c a s e i n abo ut si x to s ev en h o urs .

The nex t day t e as h fl k— witho u t rem ovi ng t he r esid ue

—i s charg ed in t he s a me m a nner How ev er the th ird
.
,

day o nly 3 0 po unds of alcoh ol a re po u red in .

T he co mbi ned distillat es co me i nto a C opp er still with

do ubl e walls b etw een wh ich stea m can be ad mitted
, ,

a nd a re neu traliz ed with dry calci u m hydrat e T he .

cooli ng pip e co nnect ed with t he still co nsists of t in and ,

i s provid ed with a b eak di ppi ng i nto a fl ask fill ed hal f

fu ll with 4 po u nds of alcohol A slight c u rrent of stea m
.

s uffi ces for d istillatio n T he first disti ll a te is d a rk

.

y ellow a nd co ntai ns l a rg e q ua nti ti es of ald ehyd e N ot

, .

withstandi ng car eful cooli ng t he vapors can be b ut in

,

co m pl etely co nd ens ed and th eir i nhalatio n has to b e

,

car efully avoid ed th ey prod uci ng st upor and h eadach e

,

as w el l as i nfla mmatio n of t he ey es Wh en t he disti l .

late is colorl ess a nd sh ows no r eaction with l it m us paper ’

t he r ece i v e r i s r e m ov ed a nd r epl a ced by a larg e glass

balloo n in wh ich t he entire distillate is coll ected D is .

t il la t io n m u st b e q uickly fi n ish ed as oth erwi se color ed

,

e th e r i s Obtai ned .

Va ler i a nic a myl ether or a myl va ler a te ,

Thi s eth e r is for med by treati ng a myl alcohol w i th

chro m ic acid .How ev e r b esid es the eth er a larg e
,

q ua n ti ty of val eri a n ic acid is also for med wh ich has to ,

be con v e rt ed by its el f i nto eth er .

To pr epare t he eth er bri ng 5 % parts of powd ered

 A R TI F I C I A L P ER FU M E -
M A TER IA LS . 215

potassi um dichro mate togeth er w ith 5 p a rts of wat er

i nto a distilli ng apparat us and v ery grad ually add a
m ixt u re of 1 par t a myl a lcohol a nd 5 parts co nc entrated
s ulph u ri c acid T he fl u id b eco mes so stro ngly h eat ed
.

that i t a l most boils Wh en r eactio n i s fi nish ed h eat

.
,

a nd distil off t he r est T he d istillate co nsists of two

.

lay ers ; t he low er o ne b e i ng an aq u eo us sol utio n of

val eri a nic acid a nd t he u pper o ne a m ixt u re of val eria ni c
acid a nd a myl v a l er ate To s epa rate both add co neen
.
,

t ra ted ca rbo nat e of sod a sol u tio n u nti l all t he fr ee acid

i s ne utra liz ed T he oily l iq uid s eparati ng th ere by i s
.

t he e th e r. It is s epa ra te d fro m t he val eria nat e of

sodi u m t he latter e va porat ed to a s mall vol u m e a nd
, , ,

aft er cooli ng s uffi ci e nt s ul p h uric a cid to fix the entire

,

q ua ntity of t he soda i s add ed T h e val e ria n ic acid is

.

th e reby separated a nd fl o a ts upo n the sol utio n of t he

,

sodi u m s ulphate It i s s eparated fro m the latter a nd

.
,

1 % p a rts of i t a re add ed to a m i xt ur e of A part Of a myl

alcohol and 1 p a rt s ulph u ric a cid a nd h eated to 2 1 2 F °
.

A fte r t he a d ditio n of wate r t he a ppl e eth e r s ep a ra t es

,
-

a nd o nly r eq u ires wash i ng with wat e r a nd so me sodi um

carbo na te to yi eld a p ur e prod u ct .

The s eparatio n of t he val eria n ic acid ca n h ow e v er , ,

b e readily avoid ed E vaporat e t he ne utral sol utio n of

.

t he val e ri a nate of soda to dry ness i n t he wat e r bath -

,

w eigh of 1 m ol ec ul e or 1 2 4 p a rts and g e ntly h ea t

, ,

it with a m ixt ure of 1 m ol ec ul e or 9 8 parts of s ulph u ric

acid (o n acco u nt of t he co ntent of water in t he com
mercia l a cid 1 0 5 parts of i t will hav e to be tak en) a nd
,

1 m ol ecu l e or 8 8 parts of a myl alcohol .

The eth er th u s obtai ne d i s a fl uid wh ich i n a co n , ,

ce nt rat ed stat e do es no t poss e ss a n agr eeabl e odor b ut

, ,
2 16 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

wh en m ix ed w ith 1 0 parts of alcohol i mparts to the

l att er a n odor r es e mbl i ng that of appl es It boils at .

fro m 3 7 0 to 3 7 4 F a nd a t 6 4 F has a Sp eci fic

° °
.
,
°
.

gra v ity Of
Va ler i a nic ethyl ether clos ely res embl es t he a myl eth er ,

a nd ,
li k e i t is pr epared fro m val erianate of sod i um
, ,

ordi na ry alcohol a nd s ulph uri c acid ,

.

A pp le ether ess entially co n sists of val eri c a myl e th er ,

of wh ich 1 part is dissolv ed in 6 to 1 0 parts of stro ng

alcohol .

A p r i cot ether is b utyric eth er wi t h so m e a myl alcohol .

C her r y ether i s aceti c e th er wi th b enzoic eth er .

P ea r ether co ntai ns a cetic a m yl eth er .

P i neapp le ether is b u tyric eth er .

S tr a w ber r y ether i s acet ic eth er with acetic a myl eth er

a nd b utyr ic e th e r .

The et h e rs a re dissol v ed in v a rio u s proportio n s i n

a lcohol a ccordi ng to t he i nt e nsity of t he odor wh ich it
,

i s d esi red to obtai n The a ro ma of m ost of th em i s .

g e nera lly i ncr eas ed by a sligh t additio n of chlorofor m .

F o r t he pr ep a r a t io n of d iffer en t fr u it ess enc es K l et

z ins k giv e s t he followi ng dir ectio n s T h fig u r es
*
y e .

i ndica te add iti o ns i n c ub ic c enti meters to 1 liter of r ec

t ified alcohol of 90 p er c en t .

A pp le ess nce e —C hlorofor m 1 0 ni tro u s e th er 1 0 ald e

.
, ,

hyd e 2 0 acetic eth er 10 val eric a myl eth er 1 00 ox a lic

, , ,

acid ] 1 0 glyc eri n 4 0

L
.
,

A p r i cot es sence — C hlorofor m 1 0 b utyric eth er 1 0 0

.
,

Di n gl er P ol y t Jo u r n 1 80 , 7 7
’
s . .

t Th e fig u r e s for fr e e a ci d s r e fe r t o cu b ic ce n t i me t er s o f col d ,

s a t u r a t ed ,
al coh ol i c s ol u t i o ns .
218 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

R as b es s ence — N itro u s
th er 1 0 ald ehyd e 1 0
e
p y
err , ,

acetic eth e r 5 0 for m ic eth e r 1 0 b utyric eth er 1 0 ben

, , ,

zoic eth e r 1 0 grap e— ,

seed oil 1 0 Wintergreen oi l 1 0 , ,

a ce tic a myl eth e r 1 0 b u tyr ic a myl eth er 1 0 tartari c

, ,

acid 5 0 s u cci n ic acid 1 0 glyceri n 40

*
,
*
,
.

S tr a wber r y ess ence —N itro u s e th e r 1 0 acetic eth er 50 , ,

for mic eth er 1 0 b utyric eth e r 50 Wi ntergr een Oil 1 0

, , ,

a c etic a myl eth er 30 b utyric a myl e th er 2 0 glyc eri n

, ,

Th e fi g u r e s fo r fr e e a cid s r e fe r to cu b ic ce n t i m e t e r s o f col d ,

s a t u r a t e d , a l co h ol i c s ol u t i on s
.
 A L C OH OL I C P E R FU M ES . 219

C HA P T ER VIII .

A L COH OL I C P ER F U M ES .

“
lcoholi c p erfumes a lso call ed Extr a i ts
'

TH E a ,

d Od eur s
’
a re di vi d ed i nto fl o w er odors Extr a i ts a ux -
,
“ ”
fl eurs
”
,
a nd i nto co m po u n d odors B o u u ets
q T h e ex
,
.

tracts Of F r ench flow e r po mad es for m t he fo undati o n of

a ll Extr a i ts d Od eu r s
’
al l oth er additio ns s erv i ng t he
,

p urpos e of r end eri ng th ese odors m or e pro n o unced and

d ura bl e Hen ce the art of t he p erfumer co nsist in a t
.

tai ni ng th is obj ect as p erfectly as possi bl e by t he correct

co mpositio n of t he p erfu me m aterials at h is disposal
-
.

If for i nstance t he fl o w er odor j a s mine is to be p re

, ,
-

pared i t wo uld not be s uffi ci ent to si m ply us e t he

,

alcoh olic ex tract of jas mi ne po mad e for t he p urpose

-
,

si nce t he odor of jas mine wo uld soo n vo l atilize i n t he

air or u po n t he h a ndk erchi e f if t he p erfu me r did not ,

u nd e rst a n d h ow to pr e v en t i t To pr e v e nt t he rapid
.

vol atil izati o n of the scent to r etai n it or to fix it ex tracts

, ,

of vario us p erfume mat erials k now n as ti nctu res or

-
,

extracts a re u s ed .

T he m ethod of pr epari ng the fl ow er po ma d es i n -

F ra nc e has alr eady b een d escri b ed on p 5 8 et s eq It . .

need h er e o nly b e add ed th a t accordi ng to th e ir q u al ity

, ,

th es e po mad es a re d esig nated by d ifl erent n um bers by

t he F r ench m a nu fact ur e rs Th ere are three q ual iti e s
.
,

wh ich by so me manu facturers are d esig nated as N o 6 .

,
2 20 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

N o . 1 8, a nd N o 30 ; a nd
. by oth ers as N o . 1 2, N o . 24
a nd N so o . 3 6, th at N o 6
a nd N o 1 2 N o 1 8 a nd N o . . .
, .

2 4 a s w ell as N o 3 0 a nd 3 6 corr espo nd to each oth er

,
. .

P o m ad es N o 6 or N o 1 2 a re not s u itabl e for t he prepara

. .

tio n of extracts th ey containing b ut l ittl e actual extract

,

of flow ers a nd a re g e nerally m i xt ures to u ch ed u p w ith

,

volatil e oils Th ey a re al most e xcl usi v ely u s ed for h a ir

.

po mad e s for wh ich th ey a re w ell ad a pted N o 1 8 or

,
. .

N o 2 4 i s t he q ua l ity g e nerally em ploy ed by t he p er

.

fumer for alcohol ic extracts N O 3 0 or N o 3 6 is t he . . .

stro ngest a nd h ence m ost exp ensi v e fl ow er po mad e

, , ,
-
,

a nd is u s ed o n ly by a fe w p e rfu me rs wh o h a v e c u sto m ers

for t he fi nest q ual iti es of Extr a its d Od eur s ’

.

Wh en freshly prepared t he a bov e mentio ned flow e r ,

-

po mad es do not poss ess t he fine odor of t he resp ectiv e

flow ers t he full aro ma b e i ng d e v elop ed o nly a fter abo ut
,

si x m o nths The t in ca ni st ers co ntai ni ng th em sho uld be

.
-

provid ed w ith w ell fitting lids a nd k ept i n a cool dry -

,

c ell a r Th us stored fl o w e r po mad e k eeps for abo ut fi v e

.
,
-

y ears with the exceptio n of j as m i ne a nd t u b eros e wh ich

, ,

k eep o nly for abo u t t w o y ears .

I n ord er to S how how the extractio n of fl o w er po mad es -

is effected w e w i ll ta k e as an exa m pl e 2 lbs of F rench

, , ,
.

fl o w er po mad e N o 1 8 a nd 3 % q u arts of b e st alcohol

-
.
*
.

Thi s proportio n yi elds a good a nd s u ffici e ntly stro ng

e xtract for t he pr eparatio n of Extr a i ts d Od eurs
’
It .

m ust of co u rs e be s u it ed to t he si z e of t he e xtr a cti ng

, ,

apparat us 8 lbs of fl o w er po mad e a nd 1 4 q uarts of al

,
.
-

cohol b e i ng for i nsta nce tak en tho ugh tha t d ep ends

, , ,

By “
b es t a l coh ol
”
is u nd e r s t ood r e ct ifi e d a l co h ol o f 95 to 9 7

p e r ce n t .
2 22 MANUFACT URE OF P ER F U M ER Y .

rat us . ar ms with wh ich the v erti ca l shaft i s pro

The ‘

v id ed k eep t he ma ss in t he appara tu s i n co nsta nt

,

m otio n a nd pr ev en t t he po m ad e fro m s ettli ng on t he

botto m The appa rat us is arrang ed to be dri v en e ith er
.

by h a nd or stea m a fly wh ee l i nstead of a p ull ey b e i ng

,
-
,

in t he fi rst case provid ed at 9 .

Wh ere t he manu factu re r has st ea m pow er at h is d is -

posal the a pparat us may be co nnected with t he trans

,

m issi o n a nd a llow ed to r un for 4 8 to 6 0 ho u rs d uri ng

work i ng ti me A fter t he expi ra tio n of this ti me pro
.
,

ceed to strai n off t he fi nish ed extract

(N o 1 ) as fol .

lows : Ov er a cl ea n t in v ess el str etch a close wh ite ,

li nen cloth and po u r t he e nti re co nt ents of t he app a

,

ratu s u po n t he latter ; t he liq uid portio n r uns t hro ugh

t he cloth i n to t he v ess el whil e t he po m a d e r emai ns
,

b eh i nd u po n t he cloth F i nally t he cloth is thoro ughly

.
,

wr ung o ut in ord er to obtai n a s m uch alcohol ic extract

fro m t he po m ad e a s possi bl e B ring t he e xtract N o 1 .
,
.
,

th us obtai ned i nto a glass flask allow i t to stand i n a ,

cool c ellar for abo ut 48 ho u rs a nd th en filter i t thro ugh ,

pap er i nto a noth er glass bottl e Thi s filteri ng th ro u g h .

paper i s n ecessary ev en if t he extract sho u ld app ear

,

cl ear and p ur e as in strai ni ng not o n ly do s mall particl es

, , ,

of fat p a ss thro ugh t he cloth b ut are also dissolv ed i n ,

t he extract By q u i etly sta ndi ng in a cool cell a r th ese

.

particl es of fat a re separated a nd a pp ear as whit e flak es

.

o n t he botto m a nd sid e s of the flask A t a high er t em .

era t u re th es e flak es m elt a nd app ea r as drops of oi l

p ,

o n t he botto m of t h e flask If filteri ng w ere o m itted

.
,

th es e particl es of fat wo uld be tra nsferred to t he ex

tracts and th us cau s e stai ns u po n hand erchiefs clothi ng , ,

et c
. If the ma nu fact ure r has not a cool c ellar at h i s
 A L C OH OL I C P ER F U M ES . 223

disposal the fatty p a rt icl es a re r ea dily s eparated by

,

pl a ci ng t he flasks co nt ai ni ng t he extra ct u po n ice a nd ,

filteri ng i m mediately after separatio n i s co m pl et e The .

fa t th en r emai ns upo n t he filt e r .

The po mad e r em ai ni ng u po n t he str a i ni ng cl oth is ,

witho u t b ei ng pr evi o usly m elted r et u r ned to t he appa ,

rat us and after ad d i ng t he s a m e q ua ntity of a lcohol

, ,

q arts to v ry lbs of po mad e) t he m i xt u re i s a gai n

( %
3 u e e 2 .
,

work ed as pre vio usly d escr ibed T he stra i ni ng o ff a nd .

filteri ng of extract N o 2 i s effect ed in precis ely t he sa me

.

m a nne r as extract N o 1 . .

T he po mad e u po n t he cloth i s no w bro ught for the

th i rd ti me i nto t he apparatu s a nd a fter addi ng 3 % q uarts ,

of alcohol for e v ery 2 lbs of po ma d e s ubj ected to t he .

,

sa me treatme nt as for e xtracts N o s 1 a nd 2 A fter . .

thoro ughly wri ngi ng o ut the cloth co nta i ni ng t he po mad e ,

t he latt e r i s bro ught i nto a cl ea n t in v ess e l a nd e ntir ely

m elted u po n t he water bath The v ess el co nt a i ni ng t he
-
.

melted po mad e i s plac ed i n a cool c ellar a nd i f a fte r ,

co m pl ete cooli ng a l iq u id app ears u po n th e s u r face it

, ,

i s add ed to t he fl a sk co nta i n i ng e xtra ct N o 3 This . .

e xtra ct ,
N o 3 i s u s ed i n pl ac e of alcohol wh en p re
.
,

pari ng t he next ti me extract N o 1 fro m t he sa me ki nd

, ,
.

of po mad e I n th is ma nner a n extract N o 1 of still

.
,
.

greater strength is obta i ned a nd by tr eati ng t he po mad e ,

three ti m es wit h alcohol it i s more co mpl et ely e xha usted

,
.

The exha u st ed po mad e can i n co nj u nctio n with fresh ,

fat be u sed for ordi nary hair po mad es

, .

A ltho ugh t he e xtra cti o n of po mad es i s so m ewhat

laborio us and r eq u ir es great care it neverth el ess pays ,

t he p erfu mer .

Bey er fr er es of P aris h a v e e ss entially i mprov ed the

, ,
2 24 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

extracti ng app a rat u s prev io usly d escribed the i m prov e ,

m ent b e i ng show n in F ig 2 6
-
. T he cyli nd ers A a nd A ,
.

a r e of c opp e r ti nned i nsid e ; t he l ids clos e ai r tight ; -

a bov e t he cocks d a p rfora d pi c of i is

f a n f, e t e e e t n

placed in the i nterior of t he cyli nd ers upo n thi s piece

of t i n a disk of felt may be plac ed a nd th us t he extra ct
,

be draw n of cl ear I n or d er to r ed u ce t he po mad e

.

to a fi nely divid ed state a nd th u s bri ng it in co ntact

,

with t he alcohol it i s passed th ro ugh a v erm icelli press

, ,

h placed upo n t he cy l i nd e r A
,
T he po m ad e pass es i n ,

t he for m of fine v er m ic elli thro ugh a si ev e i n t he low er

,

portio n of t he press into the alcohol co ntai ned in t he

cyli nd e rs The pr ess can be tra nsferred fro m o ne ex
.

tracti ng v essel to the oth er The shafts a and a , also

.
226 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

and g enu i ne and

,
lcoh ol free fro m fus el oil si nce
t he a ,

a p erfect ti nctur e can o nly be obta i ned u nd er th es e co n

d it ions F o r t he pr e para tio n of ti nct ur es Bey er fr eres

.

h a v e co nstr ucted v ery s u ita bl e appara tus es (F igs 2 7 .

a nd By t he vigoro u s a nd u ni nterr u pt ed agi tatio n

prod uced by means of s uch an apparat us extractio n i s
effe ct e d m uch mor e rapidly a nd m or e co m pl et ely tha n

by tr eati ng the su bsta nces to be extracted in ord i nary

bottl es and by shaki ng wit h t he ha nd .

The apparat us (F ig 2 7 ) is provid ed with two box es

.

FI G 2 7
. .

for t he r eceptio n of bottl es fill ed with t he s ubsta nces to

b e e x tracte d a nd a lcohol I n t he acco mpa ny i ng i ll us
.

t rat ion o ne b ox i s charg ed with two glass bottl es a nd

 A L COH OL C I P ER F U M ES . 22 7

t he oth er with a copp er flask How e v er B ey er freres

.
,

a lso co nstr uct apparat u s es wh i ch ca n at one ti me be

, ,

charg ed with 6 8 or 1 0 glass bottl es so that 6 8 or 1 0

, , , , ,

d i ffe r ent ti nct u res ca n be prepared a t one op era t io n .

The apparat us (F ig 2 8 ) co nsi sts of a ro u nd tabl e pro

.

v id ed wi th caviti e s cov e red with l eath er in wh ich r e st

,

FI G 2 8. .

bottl es of a sp eci al shap e The bottl es fit ex a ctly i n the

.

ca v iti es. T he stopp e rs wi t h w h ich t he bottl es a r e

,

clos ed r est ag a i nst a scre w of large dia met er placed in

,

t he c e ntr e of t he a pparat us A gai nst th is screw t he

.

bottl es a re fir mly press ed by means of cla mps a nd

screws T he bottl es b ei ng fill ed with the s ubsta nces to
.

b e ex tra cted t he tabl e i s s et i n m otio n m o v in g alte r

, ,

n ate l y fro m l e ft to right a nd fro m righ t to l e ft .

It is advisabl e to have alw ays a s uffici ent s upply of

ti nctu res o n ha nd si nce th ei r aro ma i mprov es by age
,
.

T he r ec e ipts gi v en i n t he followi ng pag es hav e b ee n

2 28 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

p ractica lly test ed a nd can be r eco mmend ed as pe rfectly

r eliabl e .

I l I us k tinctur e — To n ki n m usk 1 1 d rach ms rose wat e r ,

8 ozs be st q uality of alco hol 2 q uarts

.
,
.

C are ful ly empty t he mu sk sac i nto a glas s fl ask add ,

t he ros e wat er a nd l et t he flask sta nd for abo ut 1 0 days ,

shaki ng freq uently Th en add t he a lcohol a nd let the

.

whol e sta nd for se v eral w ee ks shak ing freq uently ,

.

C ut u p the em pty m u sk s a cs i n to a s s mall pi eces as

possibl e and in a noth er bottl e treat th em i n t he sa me
, , ,

ma nne r as th ei r co nt ents ; di still ed w at er may how , ,

e v e r be u s ed i nst ea d of r o se wate r
,
T he obj ect of t he .

wa ter i s to so ft en t he m u sk which sw ells u p so t h at t he

, ,

alcohol ca n b ette r pe netrat e i nto t he cell ular ti ss ue a nd

absorb t he aro ma .

T he extract fro m t he em pty m u sk s a cs i s us ed for

ch eap er prod uct s or m ix ed with t he extra ct fro m the
,

co nte nts of t he sacs a cco rdi ng to wh eth er a more or

,

l ess fine q uali ty of ti nct ur e is t o be obta i ned A still .

h igh e r yi eld migh t pe rh aps be obtai ned by the u se of a

, ,

m achi ne for co mm i nu ti ng t he m u sk wh ich gri nds t he

’

s a c to ato m s wh e r eby t he c ell u lar ti s ue i s still m or e

,
s

co mpl ete ly di si nte gra ted tha n by c u tti ng u p .

Civet tinctur e — C i v et 5 % drach ms be st q uality of ,

al cohol 3 pi nts .

C i v et i n its nat u ral st a te be i ng wi th di ffic u lty sol ubl e

, ,

i n a lcohol trit urat e i t i n a m orta r to a p ul v er u l en t mass

,

to geth e r with so me dry s u bsta nce for i nsta nce wh iti ng , ,

or exhau sted orris root powd er T he mi xt ure i s th en

-
.

bro ught i n to a glass flask the alcohol add ed and t he

.

, ,

wh ol e freq uently sh a k en .
2 30 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

c ut u with a sharp i nstr ument a nd a ha mmer T h

p e .

pi eces d etach ed are rapidly bro ught i nto t he alcohol s o ,

l uti o n taki ng pl a ce i n abo ut 1 4 days If the alcohol .

w ere add ed t o t he tol u balsa m t he l a tte r wo u ld b all

,

tog eth er r e nd eri ng sol utio n v ery diffic ult F req u ent
,
.

vigoro us shak i ng is nec ess a ry .

Oli ba nu m tinctu r e — Olib a nu m 2 lbs be st q u al ity of .

,

alcohol 4 q u a rts .

R ed uc e t he Oli b a nu m to as fine a powd e r as possi bl e ,

bri ng i t i nto a fl ask add t he alcohol a nd sh a k e fr e

,

q uently .

Op p a na x
o ti n t
c u er — Opopa nax 2 lbs b est q ual ity of .
,

alcohol 4 q uarts .

R ed uce t he opopa na x to a co ars e powd er bri ng it i nto ,

a bottl e add t he alcoh ol a nd sh a k e fr eq ue ntly

,
.

S to r a x ti nc tu r e — S tor a x li q u id us 4 lbs alcohol of b est .

,

q ual ity 5 q uar ts .

B ri ng t he al cohol fi rs t i nto t he fl a sk
.
Th en pl ace t he.

pot co ntai ni ng the storax i n war m w a ter until it b eco mes

m or e li q u id and th e n po u r i t i n v ery th i n thr eads i nto
,

t he fl a sk . S h a k e fr eq uently .

JII g/ r r h ti n ct u r e — M yrrh 1 1h b est qu ali ty of alcohol

.
,

2 q uarts .

JlI us s-
k ee d or a b el m os lc t i nctu r e — A b el m osk gra ins 2 1
.

ozs b est q ua lity of a lcoh ol 2 % q uarts

.
,
.

R ed uc e t he gra i ns to a fine powd er bri ng the powd er ,

i nto a bottl e and a d d t he a lcoh ol Th is tincture a bet

,
.

moschi fu lfils its obj ect as a fix ing a g ent o nly wh en

abo ut one y ear old wh e n it poss ess es a v ery fine aro m a
,
.

A be l m osk grai ns a re t he seeds of a pla nt (A belmos chus

mos cha tus M 6nch ; H ebis cus a belmos chus L ) i ndigen o u s ,
.

t o C entral A fric a A rabia a nd I ndia

, ,
Th ey are r eddish
.
 A L C OHO L C I P ER F U M ES . 23 1

gray kid ney sh a ped slightly corr ugated o n t he s urface

,
-
, ,

a nd of a n a re ebl e m u sk lik e odor T h e s u bsta nc e pro -

g .

d uci ng t he m usk odor li es i n t he s eed coa t T he odor .

becomes v ery pro no unced o n r u bbi ng the seeds b etw een

t he h a nds .

A ng eli ca r oot tinctur e — A ng elica root 1 6 ozs b e st

p

.
,

q uality of alcohol 2 q uarts .

B r u is e or r a sp the root bri ng it i nto a bottl e add t he , ,

alcohol a nd sh ake freq uentl y

,
.

Or r is o t t ctur e
r
-
o i n — P ulv e ri z ed orri s root of b est
q ua lity 2 l bs a lcohol of best q u al i ty 3 q uarts
.
,
.

P ulv eriz e t he root bri ng it i nto a glass flask a nd a dd , ,

t he alcoh ol The powd e r havi ng a gr eat t end enc y to

.

ball togeth er i t is nece ssary to shak e fiv e or si x ti mes

,

da i ly and co nti nue to do so for 1 4 d ays I n strai ni ng

,
.

off th e ti nct u r e it i s a dvis a bl e to bri ng t he en t i r e co n

,

tents of t he fl a sk u po n a close li nen cl oth stretch ed ov er

a t in v essel The orris root powd e r r emai n i ng upo n the
.
-

cloth after the ti nctu re has r un off is ret urned to t he

flask and fresh alcoh ol add ed in ord er to Obtai n a
,

seco nd e xtract .

—
M us k r oot or sumbul r oot tinctur e
- — S um b ul root 1 1b , .

bes t q u al ity of alcohol 2 % q u arts .

P roceed i n t he s a me m a nne r as g i v e n u nd e r a nge lica

root ti nctu re .

Tonka bea n ti nctur e — To nka b ea ns 8 ozs alcohol of

-
.
,

b est q ual ity 3 pi nts .

The to n ka b ea n is of great i mpo rtance for p erfu m ery .

The ti nctu re pr e par ed fro m it has an agr eeabl e p ene ,

t ra t i ng odor a nd i n m i xi ng i t with oth er odors great

, ,

care has to be exercised so that the to n ka odor is not ,

too pro mi nent The ti nctu re is prepared as follows

.
23 2 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

B ri ng t he b ea ns witho u t co m m i nuti ng th em or remov

,

i ng t he wh it e co a ti ng adh eri ng to th em i n to a flask

’

, ,

a d d t he alcohol a nd l et t h e wh ol e ma c e r a t e w ith fre

, ,

q u ent shaki ng for abo ut 1 4 days Th en filter off t he

,
.
.

fl u id The ti nct ure prepared in this ma nner o nly con

.

tai ns t he c umari n fo u nd as a wh ite coati ng u po n the

b ea ns a nd is u sed o nly for t he fi nest prod ucts N ow
,
.

t a k e t he b ea ns fro m the fl a sk co mmi nute th em r etu rn

, ,

th em to t he flask a nd a dd 1 % q u a rts of alcohol This

,
.

e xtract gi v e s a n e xc ell en t ti nct ur e s uitabl e for prod uc t s

of medi um q u ality .

Cuma r i n ti nctu r e — C u mari n 5 % drach m s b est q u al ity ,

of alcohol 1 quart .

He l i otr o
p i n ti n ctu r e — T h e wh i t e cryst a ls of h eliotropi n

yi eld w ith alcohol a sol utio n cl ear as water which is much ,

u s ed i n t he pr eparatio n of Extr a i t heli otr op e

'

Va nilla ti nctur e — B est q ua l ity of B o u rbo n va n illa

5 % ozs alcohol of best q u ality 2 q ua r ts
.
,
.

To prepare the ti nct ure proc eed as follows : C ut the

s o ca ll ed v a n illa po d s l ength wis e a nd th en i nto as s mall
-

pi eces as possibl e and bri ng t he latter togeth er with t he

,

a lcohol i nto a fl a sk S o m e p erfu mers trit urate t he co m

.

m i m ute d va n illa with s ugar i n a porc el a i n m ortar ,

wh ereby t he s mall s eed bod i es co ntai ned in t he pod

-

a re gro u nd up a nd a b e tt e r yi eld is cl a i med to be

,

obtai ned Tho ug h by th is trit u rat io n a ti nct u re of a

.

dark er color may be ob tai ned t he color alo ne is by no ,

m ea ns a proof of t he strength of t he ti nct u re Car e .

m ust be had to bri ng t he wh ite dow ny crys t als of ,

va nill i n fo und upon t he va nilla pod s i nt o t he flask .

Va ni llin t nct r e
i u — Va nil li n 1 % drach ms alcohol 2 ,

q uarts .
2 34 M A N U F A CTU R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

recei pts ca n be v ery adva ntageo usly utiliz ed F or t he

,
.

s eco nd e xtra ctio n l ess a lcohol has to be tak en th an for

t he first .

S i nce ma ny p e rfu mers co nsid er it of gr eat er adva ntage

a nd m ore s u i ta bl e to first dissolv e t he vol a til e oi ls u s ed

for t he Extr a i ts d Od eu rs and to pr epare a ti nctu r e in

’
,

thi s manner s ev eral r ecei pts for t he p u rpose a re gi v en

,

b elow I n t he rece ipts for p erfumery giv en i n the next

.

following secti ons the vol atil e Oils are sp ecifi ed as s uch
, ,

a nd n ot as ti nct ur es b eca use t he Extr a its d Od eu rs ’

,

co nta i ni ng e vid e ntly m uch non sa t ur ated alcoh ol t he -

,

volatil e oils will i n ti m e co mpl etely dissolv e i n them .

A n exc epti o n to this r u l e m ight be yla ng yl a ng oil -

a nd p e rhaps orris root oil Y la ng yla ng oil is sol ubl e

-
.
-

with di ffi c ulty ev en i n v ery stro ng alcohol and i f

, ,

directly u sed for t he Extr a i t t he l a tter r ema i ns tu rbid ,

for w eeks a nd freq uently esp eci ally i n wi nt er do es not

, , ,

b eco m e cl ear notwithsta ndi ng r ep eated filtering How

,
.

e v e r by pr epari ng i n good ti m e a n yla ng yla ng ti nct u re

,
-

th is e vi l i s avoid ed .

A lmond oi l (bi tter ) tinctur e

-
B i tt er al m o nd oi l 2 % .

drach m s alcohol 1 q uart

,
" <
.

B a lm oil ti nctu r e
- — Bal m oil 5 % drach ms alcoh ol 1 ,

q uart .

i
B a si l oi l t nc u e
-
t r — Ba sil oil 1 4 drach ms alcohol 1 ,

q u art .

B erg a mot oi l ti nctur e — B erga m ot o il 3 % ozs alcohol

-
.
,

4 q u arts .

Ca n u ng o oi l ti n ctu r e —-
C a nan o oil (Java
g ) %1 .ozs ,
.
,

alcoh ol 1 q uart .

For al l t h e t i n ct u r es , 9 5 to 9 7 p e r ce nt . al coh ol of t h e b es t

q u al i t y i s t o b e u s ed .
 A L C OH OL I C P E R F U M ES . 23 5

C a s si a oi l — i
tnctu r e — Cassi a oil 12 ozs .
,
a lcohol 1
q uart .

Ced a r -
o il ti nctu r e —C ed ar
oi l 1 oz alcohol 1 q uart .
,
.

C i nn a m o n —o i l ti nc tu r e — C eylo n ci nna mo n oi l 5 %
drach ms a lcohol 1 q ua rt
,
.

Ci tr onella oil tinctur e - — C itro nella oil 1 o z alcohol 1 .

,

q uart .

C lo ve o-
i l ti n ct u r e — Oil of clov es 1 1 drach ms alcohol ,

1 q uart .

Euca lyp tus — oil ti n ctu r e —E ucalypt us oil 1 o z alcohol .

,

1 % q ua rts .

G a nium oi l tinctur
e r - e — P al m a rosa oi l 1 4 drach m s
.
,

alcohol 1 q uart .

L a vend er oil tinct e -

ur — L a v end e r oi l 1 % ozs a lcohol .
,

1 q u art .

—
L emon g r as s oil tinctur e
- — L em o ng rass oil 1 o z a lco .
,

hol 1 q uart .

L emon oil t nctur e

-
i — Oil of l emo ns 1 3 ozs a lcohol 1 .
,

q u art .

L i ca r i oi l ti nctur eé—L icari oi l 5 % d rach ms alcoh ol 1

-
,

q uart .

M yrr h oil tinct e

-
u r — M yrrh oi l 5 % drach ms alcohol 1 ,

q uart .

N er oli oil tinctu r e — N erol i oi l 5 % drach ms a lcohol 1

-
,

q uart .

Op op a na x oi l tinctur e - — Opopa nax oil 5 % drach ms ,

alcohol 1 q uart .

Orr is r t oo-
o il i
t nct -
u r e — Orri s root oi l 5 % drach ms
.
-
,

alcoh ol 1 q uart .

P a tchou li oi l ti nctu r e —P atcho ul i oil 5 % drach ms ,

-

alcohol 1 q uart .
2 36 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y
P eti t g r a i n
- -
oi l tinctur e — P e tit gra i n
.
-
Oil 1 1 d rach ms ,
alcoh ol 1 q uart .

P i ne -
leaf oi l tinctur e
- — P i ne l eaf oi l *
.
-
14 drach ms ,

alcohol 1 q uart .

i l i
P or tug a l o t nc ur e
t —-
P ort uga l Oil 1% ozs alcohol
.
,
1
q uart .

S a nd a l woocl oil tinctu r e S a nd al —

w ood ] oi l
L
- -
. 5%
d ra ch ms , alco hol q uart1 .

Ver bena -
oil ti nctu r e — V e rb e na oil 11 dra ch ms alco ,

h ol 1 q ua rt .

Vi ti ver t -
i i
o l t nctu r e — V it iv ert oil 2 3 drach ms alcohol ,

1 q uart .

Winterg r een -
oil tinctur e — Wi nt ergr een oil 5 % drach ms ,

alcohol 1 q uart .

Y la ng — la ng - oi l ti nctu r e — Y l a n - l a ng oil 1 1 drach ms

y g y ,

alcohol 3 q uarts .

R os e- oi l ti nctur e — R os e oil (T urki sh ): 1% ozs alcoh ol.

,

6% q u arts .

R ose oil if d ire ctly add ed to the alcohol dissol ve s with

, ,

di ffi c ulty and i nco mpl etely By the followi ng method .

t he obj ect i s how e v e r r eadily acco mplish ed

, ,

B ri ng abo u t 5 % ozs of p u lv eri zed s ug a r into a c a pa .

ciou s porcelai n m ortar add t he ros e oil a nd m ix i nti ,

m at ely wi th t he p estl e Th e n po u r the thi ckly fl uid -

m ass thro u gh a glass funnel into a gl a ss flask a nd ri nse

the m ortar with alcohol u ntil t he pr escrib ed 6 % q u arts
of t he latter hav e b een bro ugh t i nto the flask F re .

By p i ne -l e a f o il is u n d e rs t oo d i
p en oi l or d w a r f-p i n e oil . See

p . 1 49 .

t Th e b et te r q u al i ty of oi l from I
th e Ea s t n d i a n w ood i s t o b e u s e d .

1 Bu l g ari a n r os e oil i s g en e r a l l y d e s i g n a t e d Tu r k i s h ro s e oil .

238 M A N U F A CTU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

Oil 5 , clov e oi l 1 storax ti ctu re ,

m usk root ti nct ur e n -

ti nct ures of m usk a nd a mbergris 1 % each .

Extr a it j as min — Extracts N o 1 fro m P omm Ja smin

. . .

5 0 0 drach ms a nd fro m P omm Or a ng e 1 0 0 ; ci v et ti n c

,
.

t ur e a mbe rgris ti nct ure 1 s a nda l wood oil 3 drops ,

-
.

Es sence of the od o r of li nd en blos s oms — Extracts N o .

1 fro m P omm A ca ci a 2 5 0 dra ch ms fro m P omm Jas

.
,
.

mi n 50 a nd fro m P omm Jonq ui lle 1 0 0 p u r e ca mo m il e oi l

,
.

oil of l emo ns a m b e rgri s ti nct u re 5 civ e t t i nct u r e 3 ,

.

Extr a i t j onqui lle — Extra ct N O 1 fro m P omm Jon

. . .

u i lle 7 5 0 drach m s lav n d r oil b rga m ot oil

q e e e ,

C eylo n ci nna mo n Oil storax ti nct ure ti nct u res of

ab el mosk a nd a ng elica each 5 m usk tinct ur e civ et ,

ti nct u re 1 .

Extr a i t mag nolia — Extra cts N o 1 fro m P omm Tu be

. . .

r eus e 1 5 0 dr a ch m s fro m P omm A ca cia 2 5 0 a nd fro m

,
.
,

P omm R ose 1 2 5 bal m oi l

. ti nct u res of va nilla a nd
,

c u mari n ea ch ci v et ti nct u re mu sk ti nct u re

Extr a i t mug u et (li ly of the va lley) — E xtracts N o 1 . .

fro m P omm Jonq uille 7 50 d ra ch ms fro m P omm Ja s

.
,
.

min 1 00 fro m P omm Tu ber eus e 2 00 a nd fro m P omm

,
.
,
.

A ca ci a a nd P omm Or a ng e each 1 0 0 ; b erga m ot oi l 7 %

.

dra ch m s oil of l em o ns
,
a ng elica oi l 3 drops storax ,

ti nctu re 5 dra ch ms m u sk ti nct ure ,

v a n illa t inct u re 5 ,

a m b ergri s ti nct ure 2 yl a ng yla ng ti nct u re 1 00 wi nter

,
-
,

gr ee n t inct u re 2 5 bitte r al mo nd oil ti nct u re

,
- -

E vtr a i t fieu r s d e M a i (M a y fl ower s ) — Extract N o 1 . .

fro m P omm R és éd a P omm R os e a nd P omm Heli o

.
,
. .

tr op e e ach 7 5 drach ms ; fro m P omm Jas min 1 2 5 a nd

,
.
,

fro m P omm Or a ng e 50 ; b erga m ot oi l

. Ceylo n ci nna
m o n o il orr is root ti nctu re 5 0 ti nctu res of a mbergri s
-
,

a nd m usk eac h 1 5 yla ng yla ng ti nct u r e 2 5

, ,
-
.
 A L C OH OL C I P ER F U M ES . 2 39

Extr a it i xor a — Extracts N O . 1 fro m P omm Tu ber eus e

.

fro m P omm Ca ssi e a nd P omm R ésed a

'

1 2 5 d rach ms , . .
,

e ach 1 7 5 b erga mot oil 5 or rr is root ti nct ure 1 2 5 mu sk ,

-
,

ti nct ur e 1 0 b enzoi n ti nct u re 2 5

,
.

Extr a i t Or a ng e — E xtracts N O 1 fro m P omm Or a ng e

. . .

5 0 0 drach m s fro m P omm A ca ci a 1 00 ; P ort ugal oil

,
.

ti nct ures of mu sk a nd a mbergris each 1 ,

.

E x tr a i t w hi te r os e —
R os e —
oil ti nct ure fro m T u rkish
.

ros e oil 500 drach m s berg am ot oil sa nd a l wood oi l 3

,
-

drops nut meg oil 1 drop m usk ti nct ure g d rach m civ et
, , ,

ti nct u re drach m .

Extr a i t r os e 22 d centifoli a — Extract N o 1 fro m

. . .

P omm R os e 500 drach ms ros e oil ti nct u re fro m T urkish

.
,
-

rose oil 5 00 rose gera ni u m Oil 1 0 m usk t inct ure

,
-
, ,

sa ndal wood oil 7 drops

-
,
.

Extr a i t vi olette — Extracts N O 1 fro m P omm Vi olette

. . .

5 0 0 drach m s a nd fro m P omm Cas s i e 2 5 0 ; orris root

,
.
-

ti nct ure 1 2 5 m usk ti nct ure ,

sa nd al wood oi l 3 drops -
.

To giv e t he extr a it vi olette a n apparently greater co n

ce ntra tio n i t i s co mpo und ed w ith a green colori ng
,

ti nct ure The la tter may be prepar ed by bri ngi ng co m

.

m i nu ted dri ed S pi nach l ea v es i nto a bottl e a nd po u ri ng

9 6 p er c ent alcoh ol ov er t hem
. The r es ult is a ha nd .

so me green colori ng m atter ; b ut car e must be t a k en not

to add too m uch of i t to the extr a i t as oth e r w ise i t ,

m ight sta i n t he h a ndk e rch i e f etc *

,
.

Extr a t ole v lette e P a r me

i i o d — Ex tract N O 1 fro m .

Th i s S p i n ach e xt r act u n fo r t u n a t el y b l e ach es v e ry r a p id ly

w h en e x p os e d t o l i gh t , and th e e x t r a i ts col o r ed w ith i t ac q u ir e a

d i ty
r -
b r ow n col o r . He n ce it is r e co m me n d e d t o use th e
“
g een
r

b e p u rch a s ed fr om t h e l a rg e r m a n u fa ct o r i es
”
t i n c tu r e , w h i ch ca n of

v ol a t i l e o il s .
2 40 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

P omm Vi olette 7 5 0 d rach m s ,

. orris root oil and be rga mot -

Oil each ti nct ures of musk a mbergris a nd bi tter , ,

a l m o n d oi l ea ch

Thi s extr a it may a lso be colored sl ightly green .

Extr a it tu ber eus e — E xtract N O 1 fro m P omm Tu be

.
~
. .

r eu s e 5 0 0 dr a ch m s b e rga mot Oil Ceylo n ci nna m o n Oil

,

m u sk ti nctu r e stora x ti nctu re

Extr a it r es ed a Extra cts N o 1 fro m P omm R ésed a
' '
-
. . .

7 5 0 drach ms a nd fro m P omm Vi olette 1 0 0 ; b e rg a m ot

,
.

oi l ros e gera ni um oi l
-
clov e oi l musk ti nct u r e
2 a mb e rgri s ti nct u r e 1
,
.

A trace of t he abov e m entio ned green colori ng s ub -

s ta nce may be add ed .

Extr a it yla ng yla ng — Extra cts N o 1 fro m P o mm

-
. . .

Jas min, P o mm Jonq ui ll e, P

. o mm Or a ng e,
. a nd P o mm .

A ch 2 5 0 dra ch m s b erga mot oi l

ca ci a , ea a ng elica ,

oil yla ng yl a ng ti nct u r e 5 00 ab el mosk ti nct ur e 2 5

-
, ,

t o nka b ea n ex tract 7
-
m u sk ti nct ur e 4 a mb ergris ti nc ,

t ure
COM P OU N D OD O R S (B OU Q U ET S
) E xtr a i t Ed elweis s . .

— E xtracts N o . 1 fro m P omm Ja s mi n a nd P omm Tu be . .

r eus e 2 50 drach ms each ,

a n d fro m P o mm Ora ng e, P omm
. .

Heliotr op e, a nd P omm Ja ci nthe 1 2 5

ch b erga m ot oil . ea ,

1 0 b a sil oil 5 ti nct u r es of m usk a nd a mb e rgris each 5

, , ,

bitter —al m o nd oi l ti nct ur e-

ti nct ures of a ng elica a nd
V i t i v e r t e ach 2 5 .

E xtr a i t es s bou quet — E xtra cts N O 1 fro m P omm

-
. . .

A ca ci a a nd P omm Cas si e e ach 1 0 0 drach ms fro m .

,

P omm Ja s mi n 3 2 5 fr o m P omm R os e 7 5 a nd fro m

'

.
.
, ,

P omm Or a ng e 2 5 0 ; b erg a mot oi l 4 0 Ceylo n ci nna

.
,

m on oil a nd clov e oil each 5 F r enc h ros e gera ni um ,

-

oil 1 0 sa ndal woo d oil

,
licari oi l 8 ros e oi l ti nct ur e
-
,
-
2 42 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

tr op e ch 30 ; b erga m ot oi l 8 Ceylo n ci nnamo n oi l 2

ea
, ,

P ort ug a l oil 6 c edar oi l 1 clov e oi l 2 ti nct ur e of ros e

, , ,

oil fro m T u rk ish ros e oi l a nd of orri s root each 4 0 m usk ,

root ti nct u re 8 m usk ti nct u re 1 0 a mbergris ti nctu re 3

, , ,

va nilla ti nct ure 5 .

Extr a i t op op a na x — Extracts N O 1 fro m P omm . . .

Or a ng e 2 5 0 drach m s and fro m P omm Heli otr op e 1 2 5

'

,
.

opopa na x oil 1 0 C eylo n ci nna m on oil 5 ros e oi l ti nct u re

, ,
-

fro m T u rki sh ros e oi l 1 2 5 opop a nax ti nct ur e 2 5 orri s , ,

root ti nct u re m u sk ti nct ur e 4 a m bergris ti nct ur e 5 , .

Extr a i t p a tchou ly — E xtract N O 1 fro m P omm A ca ci a

. . .

1 00 dra ch ms patcho ul i oil 4 clov e oi l a nd P ort ugal o il

, , ,

each 2 ros e oil ti n ct u r e fro m T u rkish ros e o i l 4 0 orris

,
-
,

root ti nct u re 30 m usk root ti nct u re 1 0 V it i v er t ti nct ur e

,
-
,

1 0 patcho ul i ti nct u r e 1
,
.

Extr a t m fl
i ill e e u r s — E xtracts N o 1 fro m P omm Jas
. . .

mi n 2 5 0 drach ms fro m P omm Jonq ui lle 1 00 P omm

,
.
,
.

R os e 7 5, P o mm A . ca ci a 1 00, P o mm Or a ng e. a nd P o mm
.

Tu ber euse ach 1 50 a nd P omm Ca ss i e 1 0 0 ; b erga m ot

e ,
.

oi l 2 0 rose gera n i u m oi l a nd P ort ugal oil each 1 5 o ils

,
-

of a ng elica a nd sa ndal wood each 5 ros e oil ti nct u re , ,

-

fro m T u rkis h ros e oil 1 5 0 orris root ti nct u re 2 5 0 ,

-
,

v a nilla ti nctu re 1 5 m u sk root ti nct ure 3 5 tol u balsa m

,
-
,
-

ti nct ure 1 0 t i nct u res of storax a nd patcho ul i each 5

, ,

m usk ti nct u r e 30 ci v et ti nct ur e 2 5

,
.

Extr a i t bouq uet Vi ctor i a — Extracts N o 1 fro m P omm . .

R os e 2 00 drach ms P omm Or a ng e a nd P omm Tu ber eus e

,
. .
,

e a ch 1 0 0 P omm Jas min 300 a nd P omm H eli otr op e 2 00 ;

'

. .
, ,

l emo n oil 2 0 v erb ena oi l 5 F r ench ros e gera ni u m oil 1 0

, ,

m u sk ti nct u r e 2 0 ti nct ur es of ci v e t a nd a mb ergris ea ch 5

, ,

m usk root ti nct ure 4 0 tol u bals a m ti nct u r e 2 0 orris root

-
,
-
,
-

ti nct ure 1 5 0 .
 A LC OH OL C I P ER F U M ES . 243

i
Extr a i t h ss me— u i ck -
E xtr a cts N o 1 fro m P o mm
q
- .
. .

A ca ci a a nd P omm Jonq u i lle ea ch 1 0 0 drach m s , a nd .

P mm Ja s min 4 0 ; b erga m ot
o . oil 4 oil of l em o ns 2 , ,

ros e—oil ti nct ur e fro m T urkish rose oil 3 0 ti nct u res of ,

v i t iv er t a nd a ngelica 8 ,
a m b e rgri s ti nct ure 4 ci v et ti nc ,

t ure 2, mu sk ti nct u re 1 .

Extr a it mog a d or e — Extracts N o . 1 fro m P o mm Ja s .

min 1 00 dra ch ms fro m P omm Jonq ui lle a nd P omm ,

. .

A ca ci a each 50 fro m P omm Or a ng e 4 0 ; b erga m ot

, ,
.

oi l 6 Oil of l a v end e r 1 F rench ros e g eran i um oil 2

, , ,

ti nctu res of mu sk a mb ergris tol u balsa m and c u mari n

, , , ,

each 1 0 ti nct u re of orris root 5 0

,
.

Extr a it bouq uet P r i nce A lber t — Extracts N o 1 fro m .

P omm Ja s min 1 5 0 dra ch ms fro m P omm Tuber eus e

.
,
.
,

R omm Or a ng e a nd P omm Ca ss i e each 5 0 P omm R os e

.
,
.
,
.

2 5 nerol i oil 2 b erga mot oi l 4 musk ti nct u re 2 to nka

, , , ,

b ea n extra ct 4 a ngelica ti nct ure 1 0 a mb ergris ti nct ure 2

, ,
.

Extra i t mu s c — Extracts N O 1 fro m P omm Or a ng e

. . .
,

P omm Heli otr op e and P omm Ca ss i e each 5 0 dra ch ms

'

. .
,

clov e oil 4 cassi a oi l 2 ti nct ures of ab el mosk a nd m usk

, ,

root each 1 0 opopa na x ti nct ure 4 m usk ti nct ure 3 0

, , ,

ci vet ti nct u re 5 orris root ti nct ure 50 ,

-
.

Ext a it new m w ha y
r o n — Extracts N o 1 fro m P omm
-
. .

R esed a 2 00 drach ms P omm R os e 4 0 P omm Ca ss ie 8 0

' '

. .
, , ,

P omm A ca ci a 4 0 F rench ros e g era ni um o il 4 b e rga

.
,

mot oil 1 0 myrrh o i l 5 to nka b ea n e xtract 3 0 v itiv ert

, ,
-
,

ti nct ur e 1 0 m usk root ti nct ur e 1 6 benzoi n ti nct u re 4

,
-
, .

Extr a it chyp r e — Extracts N o 1 fro m P omm Or a ng e . .

60 drach m s P omm Ja s mi n 4 0 P omm Ca ss ie 1 1 0 P omm

,
.
,
.
,
.

Heli otrop e 40 ; F renc h ros e gera ni u m oi l 6 b erg a m ot

'

oi l 2 c edar oi l
,
b enzoi n ti nct ure 4 orris root t inct u re ,
-
2 44 M A N U FA C T U R E OF P E R FU M ER Y .

3 0 , m u sk ti nctu re 5, ci v et ti nct u re 4, ab el mosk ti nc

t u re 10 .

Extr a i t ma r écha l — E xtra cts N fro m P omm Héli o

. o . 1 .

tr op e a nd P omm Or a ng e each 2 0 0 drach ms fro m

.
,

P omm Ja smi n 7 5 oils of sa ndal wood a nd clov es ea ch

.

5 P ort ugal oi l 1 0 c edar oil 1 ros e oil ti nct u r e fro m

, , ,
-

T urki sh rose oil 1 00 orris root ti nct ure 7 5 v it ivert t inc,

-
,

t ure 2 5 ci v et ti nct u re 1 0 mu sk ti nct u re 2 0 bi tt er al

, , ,

m o nd oi l ti nct ur e
E x tr a i t mouss eli ne — Extracts N O 1 fro m P omm Ja s . . .

min 2 5 0 dr a ch ms P omm R os e 1 5 0 a nd P omm Jonq ui lle

,
.
,
.
,

P omm Heli otr op e a nd P omm Cas s i e each 1 2 5 F r ench

'

. .
, ,

rose ge ra ni um oil oi l of clov es 10 cassi a oi l 5 w in , ,

t erg reen oil 1 orris root ti nct u r e 1 2 5 ros e oi l t inct u r e

,
-
,
-

fro m T u rk ish ros e oi l 1 0 0 m u sk ti nct u re ci v et ,

ti nct u re 1 0 v it i vert ti nct ur e

,
abel mosk ti nct ure 2 5 .

I n co mpili ng t he ab u nda nt choic e of r ec e i pts for

Fa tr a i ts d Od eur s gi v en abov e t he gold en m ea n ha s
’
,

b een chosen in regard to t he q u ality of th ese Odors th ey , ,

wh en carefully pr epared givi ng at a m od erate cost of , ,

m an u factu r e a prod uct which i n m ost cas es w ill satisfy

,

t he d em a nd s of lov ers of p erfum es T 0 enabl e the p er .

fumer how e v er to sati sfy t he h igh est d emands attenti o n

, ,

i s call ed to a nd a bri e f expla natio n gi v en of t he s o call ed

, ,
-

”
Extr a i ts tr ip le concentr es
'

F o r t he pr epara tio n of th ese stro ng er prod ucts t he ,

e mploy me n t of a stro ng er fo u ndatio n i e of m ore ,

. .
,

h ighly sat urated ex tracts fro m F rench flow er po mad es ,

i s r eq u ired F o r th is p u rpos e t he F rench p erfum ers p re

.

par e u nd er N O 3 0 flow er po mad es of all o d ors wh ich

,
.
,

a re ex cl usi v ely u s ed for co nc entrat ed Extra i ts Th ey .

246 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

s ubst a nces l eav ing b ehi nd solid resid ues th er e b e i ng also ,

o n ha nd t he s eco nd extract fro m t he flow e r po mad es .

B esid es t he alcoh ol s uch ti nctu r es a nd extract s cost

,

o nly t he s m all tro ubl e of tr eat ment F or th i s s eco nd .

q uality o nl y hal f t he q ua ntity of volatil e o ils prescribed

for t he best q ual ity is used S uch ti nctu res fro m which .
,

a s eco nd extract ca nnot be had may for th is p urpose be , , ,

dil uted o ne h alf wi th alcoh ol whi ch need not be of t he

-
,

best q uality th us prepari ng a seco nd q u al ity of th em

,
.

T he proc ess to be follow ed i s ill u stra ted by a s el ecti o n

fro m t he first Extr a i t r ec ei pts which hav e b een co n v erted
i nto Extr a its of q uality II .

Extr a i t vi olette I I — Extracts N o 2 fro m P omm Vi o

. . .

lette 500 drach ms fro m P omm Ca s si e 2 5 0 ; b e rga m ot

,
.

Oil m u sk ti nct u r e N O 2 a mbergris ti nctu re NO .

,
.

2,
dil uted wi t h alcoh ol bitter a l m o nd oil ti nct u re
N o 2 1 orris root ti nct ur e N o 2 1 2 5
.
, ,
-
.
,
.

A d d a s m all q ua ntity of gr een colori ng s u bsta n ce .

Extr a i t r os e 1 1 — Extract N o 2 fro m P omm R os e 5 00

. . .

d rach ms A fri ca n ros e g era ni u m oil 4 sa ndal wood oil

, ,
-

3 drops m usk ti nct u re N o 2 2 % d rach ms ros e Oil ti nc

,
.
, ,
-

t ure fro m T u rkish ros e oil 2 5 0 drach ms dil uted with an

e q u al q ua ntity of alcohol wh ich may be call ed rose ,

ti nctu re N O 2 . .

Extr a i t r esed a I I — Extracts N o 2 fro m P omm

'

. .

R esed a 7 5 0 dra ch m s a nd fro m P omm Violette 1 0 0 ber

’ '

.
,

ga mot oil A frica n ros e g e ra n i u m oil 1 clov e oil 1 -

, ,

m u sk ti nct u re N o 2 2 a mb ergris ti nct ur e .

,
dil ut ed
,

w ith alcohol

Extr a i t l n la ng I I — E xtr a cts N o 2 fro m

y a g
y
-
.

P o mm Jas min, P omm

. . Jonqu i lle, P o mm Or a ng e,
. a nd

P o mm A . ca ci a e ach 2 50 drach ms b erga mot oi l

 A L C OH OL I C P E R F U M ES . 247

an g elica oil yl g yl a ng t i nctu re 2 50 dil ut ed with

an -

the eq ua l q u a ntity of alcohol ab el m osk N o 2 2 5 to nka ,

.
, ,

bea n extract N o 2 m u sk ti nct u re N o 2 4 a m b er

.
,
.
, ,

gris ti nct ur e 1 % dil uted wi th t he sa me q uanti ty of

'

alcoh ol .

Extr a it new mown ha y I I —Extra cts N o 2 fro m

-
.

R omm R eseola 500 drach m s fro m P omm R os e 1 0 0

' '

. .
, ,

fro m P omm Ca s s i e 2 00 and P omm A ca cia 1 00 pal ma

. .

rosa oi l 5 berga mot o il

,
myrrh oi l 6 to nka b ea n ,
-

e xtra ct N o 2 7 5 v it i ver t ti nct u re N o 2 2 5 m usk

.
, ,
.
, ,

root ti nct ure N o 2 4 0 b enzoi n t i nct u r e 5 dil uted with, ,

t he sa me q ua nti ty of a lcohol .

Extr a i t chyp r e I ll — Extra cts N O 2 fro m P omm .

,
.

Or a ng e 1 5 0 drach m s fro m P omm Ja s min 1 00 P omm ,

.
,
.

Ca ss ie 2 7 5 a nd P omm Hel iotr op e 1 00 ; p a l m a rosa oi l

'

.
,

berga mot oil ced a r oil orris root ti nct ure N o -

.

2 7 5, m u s k ti nct u re N O 2
,
abel m osk ti nct u re N o .
, .

2 2 5 civ et ti nct ure 5 dil uted w ith a lcohol 5 b enzoi n

, , ,

t inct ure 5 dil uted with alcohol 5 .

Extr a it ess bou q u et I I — Extra cts N O 2 fro m P omm

. . .

A ca ci a a nd P omm Ca ss ie ea ch 1 0 0 fro m P omm Ja s mi n

.
,
.

3 7 5 P omm R os e 7 5 P omm Or a ng e 2 50 ; b e rga m ot o i l

,
.
,
.

2 0 Ceylo n ci nna mo n oi l a nd clov e oil ea ch

,
A frica n
rose g erani um oil 5 sa ndal wood oil lica ri oi l 2,
-
,

ros e—oil ti nct u re fro m T urkis h ros e Oil 3 7 % dil uted with
a n eq u a l q ua ntity of a lcohol orris root ti nct u r e N o 2 ,
-
.
,

5 0 a mb e rgris ti nct ur e 5 dil ut ed with a n eq ua l q u a ntity

,

of alcoh ol ci v et ti nct u re 5 dil uted w ith an e q ual q u a n

,

tity of alcohol mu sk ti nct u r e N o 2 1 5 m usk root

,
.
, ,
-

ti nctu re N o 2 3 7 b enzoi n ti nct ure 7 % dil uted with a n

.
,

eq ual q ua ntity of alcohol .

2 48 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

Extr a i t mug uet I I — Extr a cts N O 2 fro m P omm Jon . .

uille 7 5 0 dra ch m s , R omm Ja s mi n 1 0 0 , P omm Tu ber eus e

q . .

2 00 a nd P o mm . A ca ci a a nd
ach 1 0 0 ; P omm Or a ng e . e

b erga mot oi l oil of l emo ns a ngel ica oil 2 drops ,

storax ti nct ure 2 % dra ch ms d il ut ed with a n eq ual q u a n

t i ty of alcohol m u sk ti nct ur e N o 2
,
va nilla ti nc .
,

tu re 5 a mb ergri s ti nct ure 1 di l uted with a n eq u al

, ,

q ua ntity of a lcoh ol vl ang ylang ti nct ure 5 O di l uted w i th

,
-

a lcohol 5 0 Wi n t e rgr een ti nct ur e 1 2 % dil ut ed wi th alco

,

h ol bitte r a l mo nd oil 1 % dil uted w ith a lcoh ol

-

Ex a
t i t b u u t Vi t i 1 1 — E xtracts N 2 fro m
r o
q e c o r a o . .

P omm R os e 1 00 d rach ms P omm Or a ng e a nd P omm

.
,
. .

Tuber eus e each 5 0 ; P omm Ja smi n 1 5 0 P omm Heli o .

,
.

tr op e 1 00 l em o n Oil 5 v erb ena oil A frica n ros e

,

ge ra ni u m Oil mu sk ti nct ure N o 2 1 0 m u sk — root ti nc .

, ,

t ur e N o 2 2 0 orris root ti nct ure N O 2 7 5 civ et ti nct ur e

.
, ,
-
.
, ,

1 % dil u ted with a lcoh ol a m b er ris ti nct ur e 1 dil t d

g % u e

wi th a lcoh ol tol u bals a m ti nctu re 5 dil uted w ith a l

-

coh ol 5 .

Extr a t sp
i r i ngf l ow e r I I — E xtr a cts N o 2 fro m P o m m . .

Ja smin, P o mm Cas s i e P omm Or a ng e, P

.
, . mm Jonq uille,
o .

P mm Tu ber eu s e a nd P
o . o mm Vi olette, . e ach 1 00 drach ms ,

mm R mm R a nd P omm
'

fro m 50, P es ed a
'

P o . os e o . 1 00 , .

Heli otr op e a nd ch 50 ; ne rol i oil

A ca ci a , ea b erga mot
'

oil v i t iv e rt oil 1 3 drops ros e oil ti nct u r e fro m T u rki sh ,

-

ros e oil 2 5 drach m s dil u ted with a lcoh ol 2 5 m usk root

, ,
-

ti nct u re N o 2 . m usk ti nct u re N O 2

,
orris .
,

root ti n ct ure N o 2 2 5 ci v et ti nctu re 1 % dil uted with

.
, ,

alcoh ol
E xtr a it ixo r a I I — E xtracts N o 2 fro m P omm Tube . .

r euse 1 2 5 drach m s fro m P omm Ca ssi e a nd P o mm R es ed a

' '

. .
,

e ach 1 7 5 ; b erga m ot oil orris root ti nctu re N o 2 1 2 5 -

.
, ,
2 50 M A N U FA C T U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

v eIO ed , a nd
i f on t he oth e r ha nd too old th ey h a v e
p , , ,

lost t he greate r portio n Of th e ir aro ma a re thickly fl u i d , ,

acq uire a dark colora tio n and are fi nally co nv ert ed i nto
,

a resi no u s s ubsta nce in wh ich co nditio n th ey a re e ntirely

u n fit for fi ner prod ucts A cool a nd dry c ellar i s re
.

q u ired for stori ng volati l e oils and th ey m us t also be ,

protected fro m a ir a nd s unlight .

R eg a rdi ng t he d urab il ity of t he vo l atil e oils used i n

t he pr e paratio n of C olog ne w at e r t he followi ng m ay be ,

said
B erg a mot o il is q u ite d u rabl e ; i n w ell closed bottl es -

stored in a cool cellar it k eeps q u it e w ell for 3 to 4 y ears .

Oil of lemons is how e v e r v ery s e nsiti v e a nd has to be

, , ,

es ecially prot ected ag a i nst h eat by wh ic h it is r eadily

p ,

d eco m pos ed a nd so to say t ur ns so u r F reshly distill ed

, ,
.
-

ner o li oil sho u ld ne v e r be u s ed it acq u iri ng its prop e r ,

a ro ma o n ly aft e r b e i ng stor ed for abo ut 2 y ears on t he

oth er ha nd it sho uld not be too Ol d Wh en 6 to 8 y ears

,
.

old i t shows a tend ency to ra ncidity wh ich ca n how

, , ,

e v e r b e pr e v ent ed by m i x i ng it at t h e prop e r ti m e with

,

a n eq u al q u a ntity Of alcohol of t he b est q u ality P eti t .

a i n oil is apt to spoi l wh en k e pt for s e v e ral y ears a nd

g r ,

h ence it is n ot advisabl e to hav e too large a s upply of i t

o n h a nd B esid es t he F r ench vari e ty of this vo l ati l e
.

oil th e re has e xi st ed for s ev eral y ears past a noth er ki nd

, ,

na me ly t he P a r a g u a y p eti t g r a i n oil whic h i s abo u t

-
,

o ne h alf ch eap e r tha n t he F r e nch

-
Wh il e so me co n .

s id er both Oils as eq ually good t he F rench prod uct no ,

do u bt d es erv es t he pre fe rence Of la vend er oi l o nly the

.

b est F rench oil esp ecially mad e i n F ra nce for t he pr epa

,

rati o n of Ea u d e Colog ne sho uld be u sed T he price

,
.

of the Engl ish M itcha m lav end er oil be i ng S I X ti mes ,

 A L C O HOL C I P ER F U M ES . 25 1

that of the F rench oil i s si m ply excessi v e Of ros ema r y

,
.

o il a n esp ecially fine q uality for C olog ne wat er wh ich

, ,

ca n b e high l y r eco mm end ed i s also m anu fa ctu red in ,

F r a nc e Of ba lm oil o nly t he b est G er m a n prod uct

.

sho u ld be tak en The th ree v a ri eti es of vo l a til e oils

.

last mentio ned k eep for y ears esp ecially wh en k e pt i n ,

m —
h er etically closed bottl es i n a cool place protected fro m
t he s un .

R ose wate r ora g blosso m wat er also need carefu l

a nd n e-

trea t ment t he bottl es co ntai ni ng th e m r eq u iri ng to be

,

w ell stopp ered a nd k ept in a cool pl ace Th ese w a ters .

be i ng l iabl e to spoil the s u pply of th e m sho u ld be

,

renew ed fro m y ear t o y ear A S rega rds t he co m po u nd

.

i ng of t he volati l e oils i t is ad v isabl e to m ix th em i n a

,

ca pacio u s gl a ss flask add at l east a n eq ua l w eight of

,

alcohol of the best q ual ity shak e thoro ugh ly l et the , ,

m ix t u r e sta nd abo u t 1 4 days a nd th en i n the appara t us ,

i ncorporate it with t he r eq ui red q ua ntity of a lcohol .

Wh en t he alcohol a nd vol atil e oi ls a re inti mately

m i x ed t he m ix t u r e i s allow ed to sta nd q ui etly for
,

a bo ut 1 4 days wh e n sol u ti o n of t he volatil e oils will

,

b e co mpl ete N ow add with vigoro u s agitatio n t he ros e

.
, ,

w a ter a nd t he orang e blosso m water a nd l et the whol e

-
,

sta nd q ui etly to b eco me cl ear .

C ol ogne w a te r th u s ca r efully prepared a ns w e rs al l d e

ma nds . S p ecial attentio n i s h er e c a ll ed to t he fact that
all m a nip ul a tio n by t he addi tio n of fix i ng or co nspic u o u s
s ubsta nc es is i nj ud i cio u s A n additio n of ti nctu re of
.

m usk or ci v et sho uld partic ularly be avoid ed N ervo u s .

p eop l e i m m ediately d etect s uch a dd iti o ns e v en i f pres ent ,

o nl y i n v ery s mall q ua ntiti es a nd in most cases refus e ,

t he C olog ne w at er co ntai n i ng th e m .
2 52 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

E xp e ri enc e ha vi ng h ow n th a t al l alcohol ic p erfumes

S

d ev elop th eir prop er aro ma o nly a fte r stori ng for so me

ti m e provisio n m u st be m ad e to h a v e a lways a s uffici ent
,

s upply of C olog ne wate r on h a nd It is b est to k eep i t .

i n larg e glass b a lloo ns i n a cool c ell a r Wood en v ess el s .

a re i m pr a ctic a bl e o n a cco u n t of th e ir p e r m ea bility and

oth er e v ils M etallic v essels if us ed sho uld be ti nned

.
, ,
.

V ess els d efecti v e i n th is r esp ect or ti nned with t in con ,

t a i ni ng l ead e x e rt a n i nj u rio u s effect u po n t he a ro ma of

,

th e wat e r I n t he latte r cas e l ead is dissol v ed e v e n i f

.
, ,

o nly i n s mall q uant iti es a nd a d irty precipitate i nj u rio us

,

to t he odor of t he C olog ne water is for med .

T he filt eri ng of t he C olog ne wat e r is b est effected

thro ugh wh ite filteri ng p ap er a nd a gl a ss funnel ; the
pap e r h ow ev er S ho uld not hav e b een bl each ed with
, ,

chlori ne t he odor of t he latte r b e i ng r ea dily p erce i v ed

,

a nd havi ng a n i nj u rio u s effect u po n t he aro m a of t he

wate r F i lteri ng sho uld be avoi d ed a s m uch as possibl e

.

by ca r efully d ecanti ng off the cl ear water and filteri ng

t he s edi m ent o nly F ilt eri ng th ro ugh charco a l mag
.
,

nes ia or oth er clari fy i ng a g ents sho u ld not be m ad e

, ,

u se of for fine p e rfu mes th e ir odor b e i ng i nj u r ed by all

,

s uch mea ns .

I n t he followi ng a s el ectio n of r eceipts for C olog ne

w a te r I S g l v en i t i s h ow ev er esp ecially mentio ned that
, ,

o nly good p u re m aterials m u st b e used ev en for the

,

i n fe ri or q ual iti es A r ec e ipt for the no w fash io nabl e

.

”
M a igl ockchen Eau d e C ol og ne is also gi v en .

Co log ne w a te r
q u a li ty I — ,
B ri ng i n to a larg e gl a ss

b alloo n 9 5 to 9 6 p er cent alcohol of t he b est q ual ity .

gallo ns l e mo n Oil ,
ozs b erga mot oi l 1 5 ne rol i .
, ,

oi l F r ench ex tra lav end er Oil 1 05 oz ros em ary .

,
a dd q ua rts of d istill ed w a t er
7 9 . . P roceed i n t he sa me
m a nne r as giv en for q uality IV
M a ig lockchen Ea u d e Col og ne — 9 5
to 9 6 p er c ent alco .

hol of t he fi nest q uality q uarts b e rga mot oi l and ,

l emo n o il each ozs neroli oil F r ench extra

.
,

l a v end e r oil ros ema ry oil best Ger ma n bal m

o il y la n g yla ng oi l -
m a ig loc k chen (l ily of t he

v al l ey ) extract pi nts .

D issol v e t he oz of yla ng yla ng oil by i ts el f in

.
-

pi nt of alcohol Of th e b est q uality a nd wh en t he ,

sol utio n is enti rely cl ear ad d it to t he r est in the balloo n .

A ft e r sta ndi ng for 1 4 d ays add car e fully ora nge blosso m -

water and rose wat er each pi nts shak e thoro ughly

a nd l e t th e m i xt ur e sta nd q u i etly u nti l p e rfectly cl ea r .

— I m
Va r ious o th e r r ece
p f
i ts or C o lo
g n e w a ter B e rg a ot . .

Oil 2 drach m s oi l of l e m o n 2 drach m s o il of origa nu m

, ,

6 drops oil of ros em ary 2 0 drops alcoh ol 1 pi nt ora ng e

, , ,

fl o w e r wat er 1 oz .

II Berga mot oil 1 4 parts ci tro n oil 34 Oil of nerol i

.
, ,

(p e t al e) 2 0 oi l of n e roli
, (b igar ade
) 7 ros em a ry oil 1 4 , ,

gra p e spirit 6 000 .

III C ologne S pirits 3 q u arts oi ls of ros ema ry b erga

.
, ,

m ot cedrat a nd l emo n ea ch 2 drach m s oi l of neroli

, , ,

1 drach m wat er (war m) 2 pi nts ; m ix filte r unti l cl ear

, ,
.

I V C olog ne S pirits 3 q uarts oi l of l em o n 5 drach m s

.
, ,

Oil of b erga m ot 4 drach ms P ortu gal oi l 3 % d rach ms , ,

ne rol i oil drach m p etit gr a i n oil and rosema ry oi l

,
-

each drach m lav end e r oi l 2 5 drops Oil of clov es

, ,

6 drops extract P omm j a smine 4 ozs

,
. water (warm) .
,

3 2 ozs m ix. .

V C olog ne S pi rits 1 gallo n ros emary Oil oz l em o n

.
,
.
,

oi l 1 oz lav end e r oil 1 % ozs ci nna mo n oi l 2 0 drops

.
,
.
, ,

war m water 1 q uart ; mix .

 A L C OH OL C I P ER FU M ES . 2 55

Ea u d e L a va nd e — F o r ea u d e la va nd e, b ut two receipts
mbr ee a nd
'

a re gi v en : Ea u d e vi e d e L a va nd e d ou ble a

ea u form er b e i ng a v ery a greeabl e

d e L a va nd e d ouble, th e
p erfume for toi l et p u rpos es a nd i s u s ed as an additio n to ,

w ash water as w ell as to baths a nd for fumigati ng On

-
.

acco u nt of its balsa mi c co nstit uents ea u d e L a va nd e ,

a mbr ee i n b e i ng m a nu fa ct u r ed ca nnot be m ix ed w ith

’

water as th e latte r wo u ld prod uce a n em u lsio n wh ich

,

ca nnot be r em ov ed Ea u ole L a va nd e d ou ble is u sed for

.

t he toil et i n t he wash w a ter or t he bath

,
It i s v ery -
,
.

pop ular its actio n u po n the S ki n and nerv es bei ng re

,

fresh i ng a nd sti mul a ti ng .

Ea u d e vie d e L a va nd e d ou ble a mbr é e — A lcohol of t he .

b est q ual ity q uarts best q uality of lav end er oil ,

ozs F r ench ros e gera ni u m oi l

.
,
oils of cassi a ,

berga mot l em on a nd F rench p etit gra in each

, ,

P e r u balsa m orri s root ti nctu r e q uarts am ber -

,

gris ti nct u r e ozs m usk ti nct ure stora x ti nc .

t ur e tol u bals a m ti nctu re b enzoi n ti nctu re

-

N 0 water sho u ld be add ed .

Ea u d e L a va nd e d ou ble — Best q uality of alcohol

q uart s best l a v end er oi l
,
ozs P ortuga l oi l .
,

a nd b e rga mot oil ea ch A ft er 1 4 days add

pi nts of ora ng e blosso m wate r -
.

A qua mellis — C oria nd e r s eed 7 lbs clov es 1 2 ozs

. .
, .
,

stora x 8 ozs nut megs (br ui sed ) 8 ozs l e mo n p eel 1 0

.
, .
,
-

ozs cal a m us 6 ozs proof spirit 1 5 pi nts wat er 8 pi nts

.
, .
, , .

M ac erat e for a mo nth i n a clos ed v ess el th e n disti l ,

2 2 pi nts a nd to t he distillat e add Ora nge fl o w er wate r

,
-

5 pi nts ros e Oi l 2 4 drops a m b e rgris 1 grai n va nilla 2

, , ,

ozs M ac erate for 8 days and filter

. .

Ea u d e Lis bonne — L emo n oi l 2 % ozs P ort ugal oil . .

,

4 % ozs rose oil 4 % drach m s alcohol 5 q uarts

.
, , .
256 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

C HA P T ER IX .

DR Y P ER FU M ES .

IN a nci ent ti mes dry p erfumes w ere al most e xcl usi v ely
u s ed b ut i nd ep e nd ent of fu migati ng ag e nts which w ill
, , ,

be co nsid er ed lat er o n t he co ns u mptio n of d ry or solid

,

p erfum es is at present a l im ited o ne S ach et powd ers .

a r e h o w e ve r still m a nu fa ct u r ed
(p o ud r es
p ou r s a chets
) , ,

i n larg e q ua ntiti es The pr eparatio n of solid p erfum es

.

with t he assista nce of pa rafli ne has b een recent ly com

menced bu t u p to t he pr es ent ti me s uch p erfu mes h a ve
,

no t b eco me of a ny i m porta nc e S melli ng salts may also

.

b e class ed a mo ng th e dry p erfumes .

S A C H ET P O WD E R S — S ach et powd e rs (p oud r es p our

.

)
s a chets a re g ene rall y
p u t i nto S i lk or sati n bags or i nto

or na me nta l p ap er e nv elop es and a re u se ful for p erfumi ng

cloth es dra w ers tr u nks d esks l ette r pap er etc
, , , , ,
.

The i ncorporatio n of t he powd ers with bags or

e n v elop es is ef fected by di vidi ng th em b etw een th i n
lay ers of cotto n bri ngi ng t he cotto n togeth er with t he
,

po wd er in fine tiss ue pap er i nto t he sh a p e of the r eSp ec

ti v e bag c u sh io n etc and th en i nclosi ng th em i n the
, ,
.
,

bag or env elop e .

A sel ectio n of r ec e ipts for s u ch powd ers i s h er e g i v en .

Th ei r ma nu factu re i s not di ffic ult how ev er t he w eigh ,

ing off of t he co nstit uents sho uld be co nsci entio usly do ne ,

and in m ix i ng t he powd ers w i th t he v olatil e oils , etc .

,
2 58 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

S a chet a ux mi llefleu r s —G ro und starch 50 dra ch ms

.
,

gro u nd orris root gro u nd lav end er flow ers gro u nd rose
, ,

wood a nd exhausted v a nilla p ulv eri z ed each 5 0 drach m s

, , ,

p ul veri z ed clov es 2 0 berg a mot oi l and A frica n g era n i um

,

oil ea ch v erb ena oi l 1 ti nctu re of benzoi n and m u sk

,

root each 5 m u sk ti nct ure 5

,
.

L y f
i l o t h e v a l l e
y sa ch e t w d — P u lv ri z d st rch
p o er e e a .

5 0 drach ms gro u nd orr i s root 2 5 gro u nd lav end er

, ,

flow ers a nd gro u nd rose wood each gro u nd v it i ver t

root a nd gro und b enzoi n ea ch 2 5 berga m ot oi l 5 wi nt er , ,

green oi l 2 yla ng yla ng oi l a nd a ng elic a oil ea ch

,
-

bitt er al m o nd oi l 2 drops storax ti nct u re 5 drach ms , ,

m usk ti nct u re e xtr a it m u g u e t 2 5 .

P a t h u l i h t w d — G ro u nd patch o u li l ea v e s
c o s a c e
p o er .

1 0 0 gro und ros e l ea v es a nd gro u nd l a v end er flow ers

, ,

ea ch 2 5 p a tcho u l i oi l
,
oi l of clov es 1 berga mot oil ,

a nd A frica n g e r a ni u m oi l each

F ngp n s h t w d r — P u l v eriz ed st rch 2 5

r a i a i a c e
p o e a .

dra ch m s gro u nd orris root 7 5 gro u nd rose l ea ve s 5 0

, , ,

gro und lav end e r flow ers 2 5 P ort uga l oi l 5 p etit gra in , ,
-

oi l a nd A frica n g era ni u m oil C eylo n ci nna mo n Oil ,

m u sk ti nct u re ci v e t ti nct ure ti nct ure s of

c um a ri n a nd v it i vert ea ch 1 0 .

Vi ctor i a s a chet p ow d er — G ro und lav end e r flow ers 5 0

d ra ch ms gro u nd ros e wood a nd gro und ros e l eav es each
,

2 5 gro und ora ng e p eel

,
gro und b enzo in 2 5 gro u nd ,

v it iv er t root T urkish ros e oi l 1 b ergam ot oil ,

oils Of clov es and v erb ena ea ch 1 musk ti nct u re ,

c i vet ti nct u re 1 .

’ '

R esed a s a chetp owd er — G ro und orri s root 1 00 drach ms

.
,

gro und rose l eav es 5 0 gro und ros e wood 2 5 clov e oil
, , ,

A frica n g erani um o il a nd b erga m ot oi l each ,

m u sk
 DR Y P ER F U M ES . 2 59

root ti ncture 1 0, va nilla ti nct ure 5 , m us k ti nct ure 1,

ex trait r és éda 25 .

M us ic sa chet p owd er .
—G ro u nd m usk root , gro und ex

ha nsted m usk sacs and gro und lav end er flow ers each
, ,

5 0 drach ms gro und b enzoi n 2 5 c ass i a oil pal ma ros e

, , ,
-

oi l a nd clov e Oil each

,
m usk ti nct ure
Ess — bou quet s a chet p owd er G ro und ros e wood a nd
.
-

gro und lav end er flow e rs ea ch 5 0 drach ms gro u nd vi ti ,

v ert root 2 5 gro u nd opopa nax

,
gro und orris root
2 5 b e rgam ot oil a nd l emo n oi l each
,
clov e oil 1
Ce y lo n ci nna m o n oi l A frica n g e ra n i um o il s a nd a l
wood oil and licari oil each 1 m usk ti nct ure ,
ci v et
ti nct ure extrait eSS bo uq u et 2 5 -
.

N ew mown ha y s a chet p owd er — P ulv e ri z ed sta rch 2 5

-
.

drach m s gro u nd ros e l eav es a nd gro u nd lav e nd e r

,

flow ers each 5 0 gro u nd orris root a nd gro und b enzoi n

, , ,

each 2 5 b erga mot oil 5 a ng elic a oi l a nd Java ca na nga

, ,

oi l ea ch to nk a b ea n extract-
m u sk ti nct ur e
v it i ve r t ti nct u re 7
1

Or a ng e s a chet p ow d er — G ro und ora nge p eels 1 00

.

drach ms gro und l e mo n p eels 5 0 gro und lav end e r

, ,

flow ers 2 5 P ortug a l oil 1 0 neroli Oil a nd p etit grai n

, ,

oil each b erga mot oil m usk ti nct ur e m u sk -

root ti nct u re 1 0 .

S OL I D P E R F U M ES W I T H P A R A FF I N E The solid .

p erfu mes si mply co nsist of hard paraffi ne which wh e n , ,

melt ed i s p erfumed with a correspo ndi ng q u a ntity of

,

an d e s i r e d p erfum e e ss en c e a nd po u r d i nto m o lds

y e u
-
.

A few mi xt ur es for s uch p erfu mes a re h ere giv en

White r os e — R os e gera ni u m oil a nd b ergamot oi l each
1 0 drach m s patc ho u l i Oil a nd oi l of clov es
,
2 60 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

bou qu et — C ori a nd e r
Ess — . oil 1 drachm oi l of clov es ,

7, nu t-m e
oi l l a v end er oi l 1 0 sa ndal wood oil
g
-
,

b erga mot oi l 30 ,
ros e o il and ros e gera ni u m oi l ea ch 2
-
,

neroli Oil

L a vend er od or .
— L av end er
oil 50 dra ch ms b erga mot ,

oi l 2 5 ci nna mo n oi l
,
g eran i u m oil nerol i oil

Ea u d e Co log ne — B erga m ot Oil a nd li m e oil each 30

d rach m s l e mo n oi l a nd nero l i Oil each 1 5 rosemar y oil
, ,

5 ros e g era ni u m oil

,

S M E L L I N G S A L TS S melli ng salts a r e a mmo ni a cal

.

p erfumes i n a sol id for m P resto n s a lt (s el d e P r es ton)

,

b ei ng o ne of t he most pop u lar It is g enerally prepa red .

by i ntimatel v r ubbi ng tog eth er in a porcelai n m or tar

eq u al parts of sal a mm o n iac or a m m o n i um carbo nat e

a nd li me freshly S lak ed to a powd er and p erfu m i ng t he ,

m ixt u re accordi ng to t he q u a lity of volatil e salts d esi red

, ,

wi th a finer or i nferi or p erfu me .

W illia m W B artl ett prepar es P resto n salt with ou t

.

li me accordi ng to t he followi ng r eceipt : P owd er ed chlo

rid e of a m m o ni um 1 % ozs powd ered carbo nat e of p o tas
.
,

si u m 1 oz 6 dra ch m s coarsely powd ered carbo nate of

.
,

a mm o n i um 3 drach ms oils of clov e and b erga mot each

,

1 0 drops .

M r B artl ett al so g iv es a for m ul a for a menthol p un

.

”
ent wh i ch is q u it e agr eeabl e to t he s mell a nd a n o v elty
g ,

for h eadach e and fai ntness It is pr epared by l eavi ng .

o ut t he ess ential oi ls i n t he abov e for m ula a nd s u bs ti

t uti ng i n th ei r place 1 drach m of menthol .

White smelli ng salt co nsists ess entially of p erfumed

carbo nate of a mmo n i a Th ere a re s everal rece ipts for
.

i t o ne freq uently u sed be i ng as follows : M ix i n a capa

,

c i ou s porc elai n mortar lbs of a m moni um carbo nate .

262 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

CHA P T ER X .

F U M I GA TI N G I
E S S E N C E S , P A S T L L ES , P OIVD E R S , E T C .

F U M I G A TI N ag ents are div id ed i nto liq u id a nd dry

G

t he first b ei ng alcoh ol ic sol utio ns a nd p erhaps m ost ,

pop ular Th ey co nsist of extractio ns fro m r esi ns ba l

.
,

sa ms l eav es flow ers seeds wood a nd roots co mpo u nd ed

, , , , , ,

with v olatil e oils alcohol a nd alcohol ic e xtracts fro m

, ,

F r ench flower po mad es .

It sh o uld be the aim of t he p erfum er to co mpo und

th es e s ubsta nc es so that a harm o nio u s bl endi ng tog eth er
of all t he i ngredi ents is attai ned The Obj ect of fumi .

gati ng l i vi ng roo ms sl eepi ng roo ms a nd S ick chamb ers

, ,

is no t o nly to m ak e abod e i n th es e roo m s m ore agreeabl e

by an attem pt to cov er t he d is agreeabl e odors b ut ch i efly ,

to r end er th em i nnoxio u s th us co m bi n i ng the U s eful with

,

t he agr eeabl e .

F o r s ev e ral y ears past a stro ng prej udic e agai nst fum i

gati ng has b ee n d e v elop ed S uch prej ud ice may be j usti
.

fied in certai n ca s es esp eci a lly wh e n the fu miga ti ng ag ents

,

co ntai n m usk or a re oth erwi s e i ncorrectly co mposed A n .

a dd itio n of m u sk e v en i n v ery s m all q u a ntiti e s c a us es

, ,

n e rvo u s p erso ns to dislik e fu m igati ng ag ents co nta i ni ng

i t b ecau se it is a w ell k now n fact that m u sk e xcit es t he

,
-

ne rv e s i n a h ig h d egree a nd h e nce i n m ost c a s es fu m ig at

,

i ng with ag ents co ntai n i ng it do es m ore har m tha n good .

T he mod e of fu m igati ng h as also to be tak en i nto con

 FU M I G A T IN G E SS E N CE S , I
P A S T L L ES , ETC . 263

sid eratio n It is for i nsta nce e ntir ely i ncorrect to place

.
, ,

t he fum igati ng agent u po n v e ry h ot iro n a hot stov e ,

pi pe or glowi ng coals b eca use i n e vapor at ing u po n h ot

, ,

iro n it l eav es b eh i nd a n em pyre umatic p ung ent odo r

, ,

e xcita tory to co u gh wh il e t he act ua l aro m a i s lost a nd

,

th u s the obj ect of fu m igati ng i s fr ustrat ed .

To d e ri ve the b est effects frOm t he fu migati ng ag ent

i t S ho uld be placed u po n a mod erately war m articl e S O
th a t i t w ill slowly e vaporate L iq u id fu migati ng agents
.

may also be m ix ed i n a porcel a i n v essel with d isti ll ed

water By pl a ci ng t he v ess el u po n a war m stov e e vap o
.
,

rati o n proceeds at a still S low er rate b eca use t he fum iga t

,

i ng ag ent ca n o nly e v a pora te tog eth er with th e water ,

wh ereby its aro ma b eco mes stil l m ore agreea bl e T he .

u s e of ros e wate r or ora ng e wat e r i nst ead of distill ed

water co nsid erably enha nces the s ucc ess of fumigati ng .

T he so call ed ato miz ers m ay h ere be mentio ned

-
Th ey .

a re v ery practicabl e for cold fu m ig a ti ng i e for t he d is ,

. .
,

t r ibut io n of pi ne odor C olog ne w a te r etc

,
On a cco u nt
,
.

of th ei r co ntent of m usk t he ato mizatio n of Extr a i ts

d Od eu rs i n t he pres enc e of nervo u s p eopl e ca nnot be
’

reco mme nd ed .

T he dry fum igati ng agents s uch as powd ers pastill es

, , ,

p ap er and lacq uer are l ess pop ul a r than t he fl u id i t

, , ,

b ei ng necessary for t he p urpos e of fum igati ng to pl ace

th e m upo n hot articl es h eat t hem or b ur n th em Th ese
, ,
.

ma ni p ulatio ns d e v elop m ore or l ess s mok e wh ich fre ,

q uently ex erts a dis agreeabl e e ffect upo n the r espiratory

orga ns The most inj urio us of th es e methods of h ot
.

fumigatio n i s that by mea ns of hot coals wh er eby t he ,

a ro m a of t he fu m igati ng ag e nt i s l a rg ely d e stroy ed a nd

,

t he v ery i nj u rio us gas ema nati ng fro m the coals i s

264 M A N U FA C T U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

i nhal ed . h eated pi ece of sh eet i ro n is h owe ver v ery

A -
, ,

s u itabl e for fu m iga tio n by m ea ns of powd er or lacq ue r

-
.

S catter t he powd e r u po n it or coat i t with t he lacq u e r .

S e v eral approv e d rec e i pts for liq uid a nd dry fum i

g a ting a gents ar e h ere gi v en .

F U M I G A T I N C ESS E N C E S A N D V I N E G A R s G reat ca re .

S ho uld be e x e rcis ed i n m a ki ng t he followi ng r e c e i pts for

liq u id fu migati ng ag ents A ft e r m i xi ng S hak e th or

.
,

o ughly and l et t he prod u ct sta nd q u i etly for at l ea st

,

s ev eral w eeks t he aro ma of al l alcoh ol ic p erfumes be i ng

,

i m proved by stori ng for so m e ti me It need scarcely .

b e sa id that alcohol of t he fi nest q uali t y i s to be us ed ,

S i nc e ,
i f i t co nt a i ns fusel oil the a tta i nment of a fine ,

prod uct i s absol utely i m possi bl e To d ecrea se the cost .

of ma nu fact u re it m ight be p erm i ssibl e to i ncreas e t he

,

proportio n of alcoh ol b ut a n i nferior q uality of i t S ho ul d

,

u nd e r no co nd i tio n s b e e m ploy ed ,
.

R os e fl ow er fu mig a ting ess ence — A lcoh o l e xtract N o

-
,
.

1 fro m F rench ros e po m a d e a nd b e nzoi n ti nct u re each

,
-

1 q uart m u sk roo t ti nct u re N o 1 8 % ozs

,
-
T urkish .
,
.
,

ros e oi l a nd clov e oi l ea ch 2 % drach m s F rench rose ,

g era ni um oil 5 % drach ms D issolv e t he ros e oi l i n t he

.

oth e r volatil e oils .

F lower fumig a ting ess ence héli otr op e — A lcohol a nd ,

.

extract N o 1 fro m F r en ch h é liotrop e po mad e ea ch 1

.

q uart va nilla tinct ur e N o 1 a nd orris root ti nctu re

,
.
-

each 1 pi nt ti nc t u r es of b e nzoi n a nd tol u b a lsa m each

,

pi nt mu sk root ti nct u re N o 1 7 ozs c u m ari n ti nc

,
-
.
,
.
,

t u re 5 % ozs P o rtugal oil 1 o z F rench ros e gera ni um

.
,
.
,
-

oil 1 1 % drach ms clov e oil 5 % d ra ch m s best lav end er oi l

, ,

1 1 % drach ms .
266 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

t ur e 1 q uart ti nct ures of b enzoi n tol u balsa m a nd stora x

, , ,

each 1 7 % ozs Ol ib a n um ti nct ur e 8 % ozs

.
,
ti nct ures of .
,

abel mosk a nd musk root each 3 % ozs vanilla ti nct ure -

.
,

1 % ozs P e r u bals a m 4 % ozs b erga mot Oil 1 % ozs l emo n

.
,
.
,
.
,

oil 1 4 drach ms A frica n rose gera n i um oi l 1 1 % drach m s

, ,

clov e oil a nd cassi a Oil each 1 4 d rach ms p etit grai n oil ,

-

1 1 % d rachms fi ne lav end e r oi l 1 % ozs

, ,
.

F umig a ting wa ter A lcohol 1 0 q u arts orris root ti nc

.
-
,
-

t ur e N o 2 ti nctures of storax benzoi n and tol u ba lsa m

.
, , ,

e ach 1 q uart ab el mosk ti n ct ur e N o 2 7 ozs

,
Oliba nu m .
,
.
,

t inct ur e 8 % ozs P er u balsa m and lav e nd er oil each

.
,

3 % ozs cass ia oi l a nd b erga mot oil ea c h 1 o z thy me

.
,
.
,

O il o z .
,
il n —
clov e O a d p a l a rosa Oil each 1 oz
m .

Fumig a ti ng vineg a r — A lcohol 2 q uarts orris root ti nc ,

-

t ure 1 q uart b enzoi n ti nct ure 1 pi nt ti nctures of tol u

, ,

balsa m a nd storax each pi nt mus k root ti nct ure ,

-

4 % ozs ti nct u r es of v it ive rt a nd va n illa each 3 % ozs

.
,
.
,

P e r u balsa m 1 % ozs lav e nd e r oi l a nd clov e oil each .

,

8 % drach ms C eylo n ci nna mo n oil a nd A frica n ros e

,

gera n i u m oi l each 5 % drach ms acetic acid 4 % ozs ,

.

F U M I G A TI N G P OWD E R S T he lav end er flow e rs mari .

,

gold flow ers ( Ca lend u la oflicina lis ) rose l eav es etc us ed , ,

.
,

in t he pr eparatio n of fum igati ng po w d ers a re not p ul

v er ized b ut so far co m m i nu ted with a s u itabl e ins t r u
,

ment as to for m a disti nctly color ed m i x t u re To dissolv e .

t he volatil e oils th ey a re thoro ughly mix ed with t he a lco

,

h olic extracts m entio ned in t he r ece ipts The p erfu me .

th us obtai ned is finally i ncorporated with t he powd ers

by r u bbi ng togeth er with t he ha nds To pre v ent loss .

of p erfum e it is mi x ed with the po w d ers i n a porcela in

,

or ena mell ed v ess el .

Or d ina ryfumig a ting p owd er L av end e r flo w ers mari .

-
,
 F U M I GA T IN G E S S E N C ES , P A S T L L ES , I ET C . 267

gold flow ers corn flow ers ros e l eav es rasp ed orris root
, , ,

each 2 lbs clov es a nd ci nna m o n each 3 % ozs ra sp ed

.
,
.
,

sa nd ers wood 1 7 ozs rasp ed c edar wood 8 % ozs fum i .

,
.
,

g a ti ng ba lsa m 1 7 ozs b erga m ot oil and A frican ros e .

,

g era ni um oi l each 1 % ozs lav end er oil 1 1 % drach m s .

,
.

B esid es the abov e m entio ned dry co nstit uent S t he r esi

- -
,

d ues fro m odorife ro u s s ubsta nc es su ch as va nilla orris , ,

root v it iv ert root j uni p er b erri es etc em ploy ed i n t he

, , ,
.
,

prep a ratio n of ti nctur es may be used for ordi nary fu m i

gati ng powd ers .

f mi i
R os e u g a t g p
n o w d er — R os e l ea v es and ros e wood .

ea ch 2 lbs lav end e r fl ow ers and sa nd e rs wood each

.
,

1 1h cor n flow ers

.
,
1b ti nct u res of m usk root a nd .
,

a b el m osk each 1 % ozs A frica n ros e g era ni um oi l 1 o z

.
,
-
.
,

T u rkish ros e Oil 2 % drach ms b erg a mot oil 8 % drach ms , ,

clov e oi l 2 % drach ms nutmeg oil 1 % drach ms extract , ,

fro m F rench ros e po mad e 3 % ozs .

Vi olet fumig a ting p ow d er — R asp ed orri s root 4 lbs . .

,

lav end er flowers and rasp ed sa nd ers wood each 1 1h .

,

orris root ti ncture ab el mosk ti nctu re and berga mot oi l

-
, ,

each 1 % ozs orris root oil basil oil a nd C eylo n ci nna

.
,
-
, ,
-

mon oi l eac h 2 % drach m s extract fro m F re nch cassi e ,

po mad e 1 % ozs .

Or a ng e fumig a ting p ow d er — C ra nge p eels 4 lbs . .

,

orange flo wers a nd marigold flow ers each 1 1b m u sk root .

,
-

ti nct u re and P ort ugal oil each 1 % ozs p etit grai n oil 5 % .
,
-

drach m s b erga mot Oil 1 1 d rach m s ex tract fro m F re nch

, ,

ora nge flo w er po mad e 3 % ozs .

N ew mown ha yfumig a ting p owd er — L av end er flow e rs

-
.

2 lbs ros e l eav es rasp ed sa nd ers wood a nd ra sp ed orris

.
,
-
, ,

root each 1 1h powd ered b enzoi n R o ma n ca mo m il e

.
, , ,

c url ed m i nt and bal m each 1h ex ha usted to nka b ea ns .

,
268 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

1 1h , . p a tcho ul i l ea v es a nd b e rgamot oil each 1 1 %

dr a ch m s A frica n rose gera ni u m oi l 8 % dra ch ms to nk a
,
-
,

b ea n extra ct a nd a b el m osk ti nct u r e each 1 % ozs extract .

,

fro m F r ench r és éd a po mad e 3 % ozs .

F U M IG A TIN G P A P E R B ri ng i nto a ca pacio u s sh a l

.

low dish a q u a ntity of fum igati ng bal sa m a nd r ep eatedly

dra w sh eet s of ca rd board thro ugh it allowi ng t he sh eets
-
,

to thoro ughly drai n off a nd dry after ea c h drawi ng

th ro ugh . A ft er r e peati ng the Op eratio n abo ut fo u r
ti mes t he sh eets will be s uffici ently p erfu med a nd a re
,

th e n co ated by m ea ns of a fine br u sh w ith a sol utio n of

—
u m a r a bi c i n ros e wat er This gi v e s to t he S h eets a
g .

d ull l u str e whil e the th i n lay e r of g um ara bic also p re

,
-

v ents t he v ol atil izatio n of the aro m a T he sh eets th us .

p erfu med are cut U p i nto pi eces the size of a playi ng

card a nd si x to tw el ve s uch pi eces p ut up in an e n velope
,
.

F or us e t he p a p er is not ig nited bu t o nly h eat ed ,

With .

o ne s uch pi ece a roo m ca n be s e v e r a l ti m es p e rfum ed .

It may be r emark ed that b e fore p erfum i ng the nam e of ,

t he fir m d irectio ns for us e e t c a re g e ne rally pri nt ed

, ,
.
,

u po n t he card board -
.

F U M I G A T I N G P A S T I L L ES S o me p erfumers mak e
.

m or e or l ess a S p ecialty of t he ma nufa ct ur e of fu migati ng

pastill es Th ey a re gene rally of a r ed or bl ack color
.
,

d i ffer ent p erfumes n a mes a nd q u al iti es

,
.

To prepare th em t he fi nely p ulv eriz ed s ubstances are

,

passed thro u gh a S i eve and m ix ed in a ca pacio us dish

w ith the volatil e oils ti nctu r es et c ,
T he m i xt u r e of
,
.

powd er and p e rfume i s th en ma d e i nto a m a ss with a

m u cil a ge of gu m tragaca nth which is thoro ughly ,

k nea d ed to mak e it h o mog eneo u s .

The sal tp etr e giv en i n t he rece ipts is dissol v ed by

2 70 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

a nd cedar oil each 5 % drach ms M u cil age of um

.
g
tragaca nth as m uch as req u ired .

R os e f u mi a ti n
g g p a s ti lles .
—P ulv erized sand ers wood
2 l bs powd ered sa ndarac and S ia m b enzoi n each 1 1h
.
, .
,

car m i ne d issolv ed in rose w a ter 1 % drach ms ; saltp etre

, ,

3 % ozs b erga m ot oil 5 % drach ms clov e oil T u rki sh

.
, , ,

rose o il a nd F r ench ros e—g era n i u m oil each

,

drach ms G u m tragaca nth d issol ved i n ros e wat er as

.
-

m u ch a s r eq u ir ed .

Vi o et f
l u m ig a ting p a s ti ll es — P owd e r e d orr i s root 2
l bs p ulv e riz ed sa nd ers wood 1 1h p u l v eriz ed S ia m
.
,
.
,

b enzoi n and opopa nax each 1h sa ltp etr e 3 % ozs .

, .
,

dissol ved i n disti ll ed water ; tol u balsa m ti nctu re 3 % -

ozs orris root o il a nd b e rg a mot oi l each 5 % d rach ms

.
,
-
,

m yrr h oil 2 % drach ms M uc ilag e of g u m tra gaca nth .

-

as m uch as r eq u i red .

M i llefl eur s fumig a ting p as tilles — P ulv eri z ed li nd en .

charcoal 2 lbs p ulve riz ed sa nd ers wood S ia m b enzoi n

.
, , ,

a nd orri s root each 1 1h p u lv eriz ed ol iba nu m lb

.
,

saltp etre 4 % ozs dissolv ed in disti ll ed water ; b erga mot

.
,
‘

oi l a nd A frican ros e ge ra n i u m oil each 1 4 drach ms -

,

C eylo n ci nna mo n oi l P arag u ay p et i t grai n oi l a nd ,

-
,

j u nip er b erry oil each 5 % drach ms P er u balsam 1 %

-
,

ozs civ et ti nctu re 5 % drach ms musk root ti nct u re

.
, ,
-

ozs . M u ci lag e of g u m tragaca nth as m u ch as r e -

q u ired .

F u mig a t ng la cq uer
i — F umigati ng lacq uer co nsists
.

chi efly of resi ns to w hich s uffici e nt liq u id storax is

,

add ed to rend er t he mass pl a stic so th at sticks of any ,

d esired l e ngth and t hick ness ca n be for med th ere fro m .

T he resi ns a nd licorice mentio ned in the r ec eipt gi v en

b elow are gra d ually a nd v ery c a re fully mel ted i n an
 FU M I G A TIN G ESS E N C ES , I
P A S T L L ES , ET C . 2 71

i ro n ov
an er a gas or p etrol e u m fl a m e To pr e v e nt
p .

t he r esi ns fro m scorch i ng t he bo t to m of t he p an m ust

,

co nst antly be k ept free wi t h a s mall i ro n S patul a .

Wh en t he ma ss i s p erfectly fl uid t he F ra nk fort black is

add ed a nd t he whol e thoro ughly work ed u ntil no more
,

l u m ps of F r a nk fort b l a ck a re pres ent The pa n is t h en .

t a k en fro m t he fire and after a llow i ng t he m a ss to

, ,

cool so mewhat i t is p erfu med w ith t he thoro u ghly

,

m i x ed p erfume .

A lithogra phic sto ne no t too s mall is u s ed for gi vi ng

, ,

the fum ig a ti ng lacq uer a ro und for m The sto ne i s .

r u bbed wit h a r ag m oiste ned with a v ery s ma ll q uantity

of ol i ve oil A s mall portio n of t he still v e ry war m
.

mass i s th en po ur ed upo n t he sto ne and roll ed with th e

h ands which S ho uld a lso be mo istened with a li ttl e oli v e
,

oil i nto sti cks of d esired th ick ness The sti ck s a re cut
,
.

i nto t he d esired l engths whi l e the lacq ue r i s still war m ,

and t he Op era tio n i s th u s co nti nu ed until t he ent ire m ass

'

i s work ed up The m ass i n the pa n m ust of co u rs e be

.
, ,

co nsta ntly k ept l iq u id .

S ia m b enzoi n Ol iba num a nd m yrrh each 8 % ozs

, ,
.
,

stora x as free fro m water as possibl e 3 % ozs l icorice .

,

1 7 ozs P er u balsa m 3 % ozs F ra n kfort bl a ck 5 % ozs

.
,
.
,
.

berga mot oil 14 drach ms A frica n rose gera ni u m oil ,

-

cassi a oil j unip er b erry o il a nd e ucalypt u s oil each

,
-
,

1 1 % drach ms .
 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

C HA P T ER XI .

DE N T I F R I C ES ,
M OU TH WA TE R S ,
-
E TC .

F OR cl ea nsi ng an d pres ervi ng teeth and g u ms

t he ,

s oa
p s,
p ow d ers , a nd tinctur es are us ed a nd for r em ovi ng
,

fo ul br ea th mouth wa ter s ,
-
.

G reat care is req u ir ed i n co m po und i ng d enti frices

a nd m o u th wat e rs a nd sp eci a l a ttentio n m u st be paid
-
,

to t he corr ect s el ecti o n of t he material The s ubs ta nc es .

u s ed m u st be ch e m ic a lly p u r e a nd no ca u sti c or S harp

,

or grati ng materials s uch as p u m ic e sa nd oss a s ep ioe

, , , ,

e tc
. sh o uld be employ ed th ey d estroyi ng t he ena mel of
, ,

t he teet h .

T he colori ng s u bsta nces us ed to gi v e t he d enti fri ces

a nd m o uth wat e rs a pl ea si ng a pp eara nce sho u ld u nd e r
-

n o co nditio n b e i nj u rio u s or poiso no u s s u ch as for i n , ,

sta nce brillia nt rosa ci nnab a r a nil i ne chro me yellow

, , , , ,

picric a ci d et c The p e rfum es hav e also t o be ca reful ly

,
.

sel ected a nd all rep ugna nt volatil e oil s a nd ti nctu res

, ,

s u ch as bitte r — al m o nd oil sandal wood oil m us k ti nc ,

-
,

t ure etc S h o uld be avoid ed

,
.
,
On t he oth e r h a nd .
,

p epp er m i nt oi l for ms t he pri ncip a l co nstitue nt of t he

p erfume for m ost d entifric es and m o ut h waters th is -
,

pre ference bei ng not o nly d ue to its agreeabl e Odor bu t ,

chi efly to its pl ea sa nt re fresh i ng a nd sti m ulati ng a ctio n

, ,

u po n o ur org a ns .

I n a ccord a nce with r ec e nt med ical d irectio ns a nd

2 74 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

fr ices and m o uth —

waters ,
fulfills a do u bl e obj ect on t he
o ne ha nd i t s actio n u po n t he t eeth a nd m o uth i s b ene
,

fic ial a nd o n t he oth e r it cov ers t he na t u rally bitter

, , ,

taste of ma ny s ubsta nc es co nta i ned in th e prepara ti o ns ,

and th u s ma kes th e m m or e a greeabl e to u se .

The r ece ipts for d entifrice s a nd m o uth w at ers h ere -

g iv en hav e been th oro ughly tested a nd can be highly ,

reco m mend ed .

Tooth a nd m o u th w a ters h m
T y ol tooth w a ter — A lcohol .
-
.

of best q ua lity 5 q uarts ch e m ically p u re glyceri n of ,

28
°
B 1 7 % ozs
. crystallized thy mol 1 oz wh ite
.
, .
,

thy me oi l a nd best p epp er m i nt oil each 1 % ozs ti nc .

,

t u res of a r ni ca a nd g uai a c um each 1 % ozs cochi neal .

,

ti nct ure for colori ng 2 % to 3 % ozs

, ,
.

B ri ng all t he i ngr edi e nts i nto a glass b alloo n S h ak e ,

thoro ughly and protect t he liq u id fro m s un light

,
-
.

The cochi neal ti nct ure i s prep a red fro m 1 4 ozs of .

coch i neal and 1 q ua rt of alcohol of b est q uality t he ,

arn ica ti nctu re fro m 2 lbs of ar nica root and 2 % q uar t s .

Of alcohol of b est q ua lity a nd t he g uaiac um t i nct ur e ,

fro m 5 % ozs of g u ai ac um wood a nd 1 q u art of alcohol

.
-

of best q u ality .

Ea u d entifr i ce B otot — A lcohol of b est q ual ity 5 q u art s

.
,

ch emically p ure glyc eri n of 2 8 B 1 7 ozs p epp er m i nt °

. .
,

o i l 2 ozs clov e oil 1 1 dra ch ms a nise s eed oil 5 dra ch m s

.
, ,
-
,

rata ny ti nct ure and va nill a ti nct ure each 5 % ozs P e r u .

,

via n bark ti nct ur e 1 % ozs s and ers wood ti nct ur e as .

,
-
,

colori ng matter 3 % ozs P roceed as abov e ,

. .

T he sa nd ers wood ti nct ur e is pr epared by m ace rati ng

-

5 % ozs of red sa nd ers wood w ith 1 q uart of alcoh ol

. .

Ea u d entifr ce Or
i i en ta le — A lcohol of b es t q ual i ty 5
q uarts , p eppe rm i nt oil a nd ros e gera ni um oil each 1 % ozs -
.
,
 DEN T I F R I C ES , M OU TH WA T ER S-
,
ET C . 2 75

clov e oil 1 1 % d rach ms extr a it r os e and ra ta ny ti nctu re ,

ea ch 3 % ozs v a n ill a ti nct ure 1 % ozs P roc eed as abov e

.
,
.

a nd color ros e color wit h cora lli n ti nct ur e .

The rata ny ti nct ure is prepared fro m 1 7 % ozs o f rata ny

'

root and 1 q uart alcohol a nd the coral l i n ti nct u re fro m ,

1 7 ozs of cora lli n a nd 1 q uar t alcohol

. .

Vi olet m o u th w a ter — Ti ncture of b enzoi n 7 parts ti n c

-
.
,

t ure of ra tany 30 ti nct u re of m yrrh 60 rose wate r 2 5 0

, , ,

ti nct ure of orris root 5 00 alcohol 2 50 ,

.

A ntis ep ti c g a rg le — T he followi ng sol utio n i s reco m

.

m end ed for steri lizi ng t he mo u th afte r t he teeth ha v e

b een cl ea ns ed with a tooth br ush a nd soa p Thy m ol 3 % -

grai ns benzoic a cid 4 5 ti nct ure of euca lypt us 1 8 0 wate r

, , ,

1 % pi nts .

O nt ne
d o i — E xha u st 3 ozs of p ulv e riz ed myrrh with .

a m ixt u re of 2 5 ozs of alcoho l a nd 8 ozs of wate r . . .

Th en dissolve 1 % ozs of C a stil e soap S h a vi ngs in a m ix.

t u re of 2 5 0 2 5 o f alcohol a nd 8 ozs of water a nd

. .
,

color wi ne red wi th al ka nni n Th en add l emo n Oil 3 0

-
.
~

d rops pe ppe rm i nt o i l 3 0 drops W i nt e rgreen oil 1 0

, ,

drops sta r a nis e oi l 30 drops a nd fi nally 4 ozs of

,
-
,
.

glyce ri n A fte r allowi ng t he whole to sta nd in a cool

.

place for one or two wee ks filte r m ix t he filtrate w ith , ,

1 0 drach m s of a ce tic e th e r a nd fill i n bottl es ,

.

S o od ont
z — White Ca st il e soap oz oil of p e ppe rm i nt
. .
,

5 drops oi l of W i nte rgreen 1 2 drops glyc eri n

, ,

w a te r 1 oz alcohol 2 ozs cochi neal ti nct u re s uffi ci e nt

.
,
.
,

to color .

Ea u d e B otot (imp roved ) — C lov es star a nis e a nd soap .

,
-
,

bark each 2 % dra ch ms, coch ineal 1 % drach ms P ulv eriz e

,
.

a nd p ercolate with the follow i ng mi xt u re : A lcohol 2 0

ozs rose wate r 4 ozs To t he p ercolate add : C rea m of
.
, .

tarta r 4 5 grai ns oi l of p epp ermint 1 % drach ms F ilter

,
. .
2 76 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

Q uinine tooth- w a ter .

— A lcoh ol of b est q ual ity 5 q uarts ,
p epp er mint oi l 1 oz clov e oi l oz C eylo n ci n na mo n
.
,
.
,

oil 2 % dra ch ms P e ru vi a n bark ti nct ur e 8 % ozs g ua ia

,
-
.
,

cu m t inct u r e 3 % ozs
-
myrrh ti nct ur e ozs glyce ri ne
.
,
.
,

of 2 8 B 1 7 % ozs P roceed a s abov e

°
. . .

T he P e r u via n b a rk ti nctu re i s pr epar ed by m a c erati ng

-

8 % ozs of P er u via n b a rk i n 1 q u art of a lcohol of b est

.

q uality .

D r S ta hl s tooth tinctur e
.
—’
A lcohol of b est q uality 5
-
.

q uarts p epp er m i nt oi l 1 % ozs clov e oil 5 % drach m s

,
.
, ,

F r ench rose g er a ni u m oil 8 % d rach m s va nilla ti nct u r e

-
,
-

5 % ozs g ua i a c u m ti nct u re 3 % ozs b enzoi n ti nct ur e 8 %

.
,
.
,

ozs h enna ti ncture as colori ng m atte r 8 % ozs

.
,
-
, ,
.

B ri ng all t he i ngredi ents i nto a gl a ss bottl e shak e ,

t horo ughly a nd prot ec t t he m ixt u r e fro m s u n light -

.

T he ti nct ur e wh en m i x ed with wat er gi v es a n e m ulsio n

, ,
.

The h enna ti nct u re i s obtai ned by m a c erati ng 1 7 %

-

ozs of h enna root in 4 q u arts of alcohol

.
-
.

Esp r i t d e menthe — A lcohol of b est q uality 5 q ua rts

.
,

p epp er m i nt Oil 4 % ozs .

i h i
A r n ca toot t nct e u r — A lcohol of b est q uality a nd
-
.

ar n ica ti nctu re eac h 1 q uart P e r uvia n bark ti nct ure 1

-
,
-

pi nt glyceri n of 2 8 B 5 % ozs coch i neal ti nct ure, as col

,
°
. .
,

ori ng matter 1 % ozs ,

.

JlI yr r h tooth ti nctu re — A lcoh ol of b est q ual ity 1

-
.

q uart myrr h ti nct u re 2 q u arts g uaiac u m ti nct ure

, ,

8 % ozs .

A fe w r em arks may h er e be m ad e regardi ng t he u s e

Of tooth ti nct u r e s The ti nct u r es sho uld not be u s ed
.

u ndil u t ed th ey b ei ng apt to m ak e tend er g um s sor e

, ,

c a us e pai n a nd may e v en prod uce i nfla mmatio n It is

,
.

b est to dil ute t he t i nctu res so mewh a t wi th water w he reby

278 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

o nly the proportio n of water has to be tak e n i nto con

sid e ra tio n To pre ven t t he mass fro m b eco mi ng too soft
.
,

t he w a te r sho u ld be v e ry grad ual ly add ed .

Thymol toot p a s te
h — C arbo nate of mag nesi um 4-
.

l bs s ugar of m il k 2 l bs p ul v erized gu m arabic a nd

.
,
.
,
-

soap powd er each 3 % ozs carm i ne na ca rat as colori ng .

, ,

m att er 2 % drach m s a nd al i zari n as colori ng matt er 6 %

, , , ,

drach ms s ugar 1 0 % ozs d issol v ed i n d istill ed water 1 %

,
.
,

q uarts p eppe r m i nt oil 1 % ozs wh ite thy m e oi l 2 % ozs

,
.
,
.
,

crystall iz ed thy mol 1 % ozs ar nica t i nct u re 7 ozs The .

,
.

thy me oi l p epp er mi nt oil a nd ar nica ti nct u re a re bro ught

,

i nto a bottl e a nd t he thy m ol i s dissol v ed i n t he m ixtu re .

By pr e vi o u sly co nv erti ng t he thy mol to a coars e powd e r

sol utio n ta k es place q u ite rapidly T he furth er m ani p u .

latio n is the same as gi v en fo r tooth p a ste N o 1 -

. .

C herr y tooth p a s te — B oi l briskly 1 oz pot a ssi um

-
. .

carbo nat e a nd 1 oz of powd ered coch i neal i n a pi nt of .

wate r until r ed uced to 1 2 or 1 3 ozs Wh en cold ad d 1 .

,

oz crea m of t artar
. oz al u m 2 ozs glyceri n a nd ,
.
,
.
,

wate r s uffici ent to mak e 1 6 ozs of filtered sol utio n . .

Th en ad d 4 ozs of ho ney a nd s et asid e a fe w days to s ee

.

i f fer mentatio n occ urs C arefully m ix t he liq u i d with .

2 l bs pr epared ch alk 1 % o zs orri s powd er and

. ozs ,
. .

cassia powd er .

N on fer menting cherry tooth p a s te

- — F i ne pow d e red -
.

p um ice sto ne 2 ozs pow d ered orris root 2 ozs powd er ed .

,
.
,

myrrh oz h o ney 4 ozs s uffi ci ent l iq uid cochi nea l t o

.
,
.
,

color oil of clov es

,
drach m essenc e of l emo n 1 % ,

drach ms ro se oi l 8 drops M ix w ell

,
. .

Od ont ne p a s te
i — F r ench chal k 3 0 drach m s soap l o , ,

s ugar 1 5 g um arabic 2 p ep perm i nt oi l 2 glyc eri n 8

,
-
, , ,

wate r 8 Work i nto a paste . .

 D E N TI F R I C ES , M OU T H - WA T E R S , ET C . 2 79

Thymol tooth p owd er of m ilk a nd carbo na t e

-
.
— S ugar
of m ag nesi u m ea ch 2 l bs precipitated carbo nat e of .
,

ca l ci um 1 1b b est so a p —powd e r 7 ozs alizari n as color

.
,
.
, ,

i ng matt e r a nd crystalliz ed t t ,
o l ea ch 1 o z glyce ri n ,
.
,

o f 2 8 B 5 % ozs arnica ti nct ure 7 ozs wh ite thy me

°
. .
,
.
,

oil 1 % ozs p epper m i nt oi l 1 1 % d ra ch ms

.
,
.

Thoro ughly m ix— p refe ra bly in a cap a cio u s ena mell ed

—
v essel t he po w d e red a nd colored i ngredi e nts add t he ,

thy mol dissol ved in t he m ixt u re of t he vo l atil e o ils ,

‘

ar nica ti ncture a nd glyce ri n r ub a nd uni for mly mix t he ,

w hol e w i t h t he h a nd s so th a t n o S p ecks of colori ng m a t ,

t er a nd pe rfu m e a re p e rce pti bl e a nd th en a gai n pass ,

thro ug h a fine si e ve .

Tooth powd e r is best k ept i n w el l clos ed t in box es

box es of wood o r pa ste boa rd a re not s ui t abl e for the -

p urpos e t he powd e r wh e n k ept in th e m losi ng in

, , ,

q uality .

T he a bov e ex pl a na tio ns refe r to all t he follo w i ng toot h

po wd ers
P oud re d entifri ce — Bre d pit a ted carbo nate of ca lc ium
2 lbs ca rbo na te of ma g ne si u m 1 1h s u gar of m ilk 1 %
.
,
.
,

lbs fine soap powd e r 5 % ozs al iza ri n as colori ng matter

.
,
-
.
, , ,

5 % ozs p epp er mi nt oil 2 ozs clove o il 5 % drach ms

.
,
.
.
, ,

C eylo n ci nna mo n oil 2 % drach ms rose— ge ra ni um oil 5 % ,

d rach m s va nilla t inct ure 1 % ozs

,
P roc eed as giv en for .

thy mol tooth powde r -

.

V i l t t th wd — O rris r o ot po w d e r 3 lbs car

o e o o
p o er - -
. .
,

bo nate of mag nesi um 1 1h s ugar of m il k 1 % lbs bes t .

,

soap— powd e r 5 % ozs P ort uga l oi l a nd pe p pe r mi n t Oil .

,

e ac h 1 o z rata ny ti nctu re 3 % ozs P roceed as gi v e n

.
, .

for thy m ol tooth po w d er -

.
2 80 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

Dr . Hufela nd — P ul v eriz ed sa nd ers

’
s tooth p o wd e - ~

wood P e r u via n bark a nd preci pitated carbo nate of

, ,

calci u m ea ch 2 l bs b est so a p powd er 7 ozs be rga mot .

,
-
.
,

oil and P ort uga l oil each 1 1 drach ms cl o v e Oil a nd ,

cassi a Oil each 1 4 dra ch m s myrrh ti nct u re 1 % ozs ,

.

P roc eed a s gi v e n for thy m ol tooth powd er -

.

t ite tooth p o wd er C a rbo na t e of m a g nesi u m p re

-
.
,

ci i t a t ed carbo na t e of c a lci u m a nd pre p a red ch a l k each

p ,

1 l h so a p powd e r 3 % ozs p e pp e r m i nt oil 1 oz clo v e

.
,
-
.
,
.
,

oil 5 % dra ch ms P roceed as gi v en for t hy m ol toot h

.

powd er .

B la c k t t h w d e — F i nely p ul v e ri z ed li nd en ch a r
o o
p o r -
.

coal 2 l bs precipita ted ca rbo na te of calci u m 1 l b b est

.
,
.
,

soap powd er 3 % ozs p epp er mi nt oil 1 % ozs clo ve oi l

-
.
,
.
,

8 % drach m s g ua iac um ti nct u re 3 % ozs

,
P roc ee d a s .

gi v en for thy m ol tooth powd er -

.

P o ud r e d e c o r a il — Ca rbo na t e of mag nesi u m 1 l b

. .
,

s ugar of m il k 7 ozs pr epared ch a l k 1 l b be st soap .

,
.
,

powd er 7 ozs a li zari n 3 % ozs p epp er m i nt oi l 1 % ozs

.
,
.
,
.
,

clov e Oil 5 % d ra ch ms cassia oil 2 % drach ms P roceed ,

.

a s g iv e n for thy m ol tooth powd e r -

.

Ca pm h t th w d — P r e par ed ch al k a nd rec i i
o r oo
p o e r
p p
-
.

t a ted carbo nat e of calci u m ea ch 1 l b b est soap powd e r .

,
-

2 % ozs p epp e r m i nt oi l 5 % drach m s c a m ph or 1 oz dis

.
, ,
.

sol v ed i n t he necess a ry q ua ntit y of alcohol Of b est q ual ity .

Th oro ughly m ix al l t he i ngred i ents a nd p a ss t he m ix

t u r e th ro ugh a fine si ev e This tooth powd er sho u ld be .
-

u s ed o nly e v e ry 5 or 6 days ; wh e n too fr eq uently u s ed

i t affe cts t he ne rv es ;
Op i t li u i d u l d nts — G nu i ne ho ney 1 % lbs
a
q e
p o r es e e .
,

s ugar syr up 2 % ozs b est wh eat flo ur 7 ozs ro u nd lak e .

,
.
,
-

2 ozs p epp er m i nt oil and clov e Oi l each 1 1 % drach m s

.
,
.
 82 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

color a nd i s th en sift ed : The powd er i s p erfu med with

,

p epper mi nt oil 1 oz a nd cl o v e oi l a nd ca ssia oil each 5 %

.

o zs. s u ffici e nt glyc e ri n to pre vent d ust bei ng a t t he s am e

, ,

ti me r u bb ed in With t he a dditio n of the glyceri n t he

.

bea utiful cri m so n color of t he powd e r rea ppears Th is .

tooth powd e r poss esses excell e nt cl ea nsi ng q ual iti es and

-

ca n b e r eco m m end ed chi efly to p e rso ns ha v i ng y e llow

t eeth a s w ell as to s mok e rs wh ose teet h co mmence to get

,

bl a ck .

D r Hufela nd s tooth s o ap — B est q u al ity of tallow

.
’

melt ed witho ut acid 1 4 l bs sod a lye of 3 8 B 6 % lb .

,
°
.

pota sh lye of 2 0 B 1 lb F u rth er y ellow och re 1 l b

°
. .
,
.
,

u m b e r 4 % ozs a nd pre cip it a t ed c a rbo na t e of calci u m 3

.
,

lbs sti rred togeth er with hot wa te r 2 q uarts P epp e r

.
,
.

m i nt oi l 5 % ozs clov e Oil 1 4 dra ch m s

.
,
.

T he k ettl e with t he tallo w stra i ne d thro ugh a clo t h

i s bro ugh t u po n the w a t er bath a nd t he tallo w h eated to
-

167 F T he l ye h ea ted to abo ut 1 00 F is th en slowly

° °
. .

a dd ed to t he t allo w i n t he k ettl e a nd afte r stirr i ng for , ,

abo ut h o u r t he mass is allo w ed to r est q ui etly t he

, ,

k ettl e b e i ng lightly cov ered a nd o nly a littl e stea m a d

mit ted or fire k ept u nd e r t he k ettl e so that s a po ni fi ca ,

t i o n d o es not tak e plac e too r a pi d ly .

S ap onifica t ion wi ll be slowly e ffe cted fro m t he sid es of

t he k ettl e i n abou t o ne ho u r t he m ass in t he k ettl e risi ng,

so mewhat Th i s risi ng i nd icates th a t t he process of

.

sa onifica t io n i s goi ng o n
p T he m a ss is no w a ga in
.

s ti rr ed whi ch m u st be d o ne car e fu lly a nd no t h astily as

, ,

oth e rwise t he so a p r ead ily b eco mes S p u mo u s Wh e n .

t he soap agai n l i es q ui etly i n t he k e ttl e i t will h a v e t he ,

app eara nce of a white pri me gra i n soa p N o w add t he -

.

colori ng su bsta nc es a nd t he precipita t ed carbo nat e of

 D EN TI F R I C ES ,
M OU TH - WA TE R S , ETC . 2 83

ca lci um a nd thoro ughly sti r so that the m ass acq u ires a ,

u nifor m b row n color Th en remov e t he k ettl e fro m t he

.

water bath add t he p erfumes with co nstant sti rri ng

-
, ,

bri ng t he finish ed tooth soap i nto t he fra me l ightly cov e r ,

t he latt e r wi t h t he wood en lid a nd let sta nd ov e r n ight .

The next d ay t he too t h soap may be c ut u p i nto s uitabl e

pi eces wh ich are allow ed to dry for abo ut 1 2 ho urs and
,

th en p ack ed in ti nfoil etc ,

.

To oth s oap —
-
Ca stil e soap 1 l h
. pre pared ch a l k 1 .
,

oz. thy m ol 2 0 grai ns oil of Wi ntergreen 3 0 drops

, ,
.

S hav e the soap i nto ribbo ns b eat it i nto a paste w i t h ,

.

a l itt l e wat e r a nd add first t he pr epa red chal k a nd last ly

,

t he thy mol a nd Wi nt e rgr e e n oil dissol ved i n a littl e wat e r .

S ap ona ceous tooth wa s h — Whit e Castil e soap 3 ozs

'
-
.
,

o il of ora ng e p eel 1 0 drops oi l of ci nna mo n 5 drops , ,

water 4 o zs alcohol 1 2 o zs
.
,
.

S hav e the s o ap i nto ri b bo ns mel t with t he water i n

a water bath ad d i ng the alcohol whil e stil l w ar m
-
, .

C o nti nue t he h eat if necessary u ntil sol utio n is effected , .

Wh en col d , d iss ol v e t he o ils in the l i q ui d .

284 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

C HA P TER XII .

HA IR P OM A D E S HA IR OI L S , A N D HA IR TON I CS ; HA IR
D YE S A N D DEP I L A T OR I E S .

TO prop erly pres erv e t he h a ir it r eq u ires to be occa

s io na l l oil ed a nd t h scalp to b fr q u n t ly cl ea nsed
y e ,
e e e .

P o mad es a nd oils s e rv e for t he for m e r p u rpos e a nd h ai r ,

to nics for t he latter F or t he prepara tio n o f po mad es .

,

fa ts s uch as l a rd b ee f ta llow a nd b ee f m arrow a re

, ,
-
,
-
,

pri nci p ally used th o ugh cocoa b utter coco a nu t oi ]

, , ,

castor oil al m o nd oil sp e r ma ceti a nd wax a nd m ore

, , , , ,

r ece ntly v a s eli ne a re a lso em ploy ed F o r t he prepar a

,
.

tio n of hai r oils fa t oils esp eci ally ol i v e oil a nd a l m o nd

, ,

oi l a re u s ed but a lso poppy Oil p ea nu t o il sesa me oil

, , , ,

et c . The fats a nd oils us ed sho uld not be ra ncid for o n , ,

”

th e o ne ha nd t he bad odor arisi ng fro m ra ncidity i s

,

tro u bl eso me in p e rfum i ng a nd o n the oth er wh a t i s of , , ,

still greater i m porta nce ra ncid fa t i nj urio u sly affects the ,

scalp a nd t he growth of t he hair Of t he oils abov e .

mentio ned wh ich ar e so me ti m es u s ed poppy oil i s a

, ,

dryi ng oil a nd th er e fore n o t s uita bl e for the p u rpos e

, , ,
.

S o me fats enj oy a S p ecial r ep ut a tio n as hair po m ad es ,

t he prop e rt y of str e ngth en i ng t he scalp a nd pro m o ti ng

t he growth of t he h ai r b ei ng ascrib ed to th e m Th is is .

e sp eci a lly t he cas e as r eg a rds b ee f m arro w a nd horse

whilst in old en ti mes t he bo ne marro w of t he d ee r

G e n u i n e h or s e fa t i s o b t a i n ed fr om t h e u p p er p o rtion of the
nec k of t h e h or s e .
286 M A N U F A C TU R E O F P ER F U M ER Y .

i ng the scum for med A fter sta ndi ng for sev eral ho urs
.
,

t he fat th u s p uri fi ed is car efully tak en off fro m t he s edi

me nt a nd wate r ; it is th en tog eth er wi th 4 to 6 lbs of , .

p ul v e rized b enzoi n for so me ti me h eated at 1 6 7 F and

,
°
.
,

fi nally strai ned i nto sto ne j a rs wh ich after t he fat i s , ,

cold a re clos ed with a pi ece of bl add e r or wax ed p a pe r

,

a nd k e pt for u s e F a t th u s pre pared k eeps for y ears

. .

F o r color i ng the p oma d es a re u sed : 1 F or r ed .

A lka nni n ci nnabar car mi ne (trit u rat ed with a s mall

, ,

q ua ntity of sal a mmo niac a nd add ed to t he fat) and

safra ni n (1 part of i t dissol v ed i n 2 0 parts a l cohol and
8 0 p a rts wate r a nd add ed to t he m elted fa t) 2 F or . .

ellow : A n notto t ur m e ric cad mi u m s ulphid e 3 F or

y , ,
. .

br own : C ocoa powd er a nd och r e 4 F or g r een : C hlo . .

ro h l B esid es t he abov e m entio ned colori ng s u bsta nc es

p y
-
,
.

a v ery i ntense colori ng m atte r for po mad es is bro ught

”
i nto co mmerce und er t he na me L ed eri n by Sa l tzer
Voigt of Ok e r Ger ma ny It i s m a nu fact ured in l emo n
, ,
.

color ora nge ci nna bar v i ol et a nd brown shad es a nd 1 0

, , , , ,

to 1 2 drach ms of it trit urated in a porcelai n dish with

,

abo u t 1 l b of t he war m fat will i mpar t a tr uly b ea u tiful

.
,

color to 1 00 lbs of fat or oi l . .

F i n e F r en ch P om a d es
(F l o w er P o ma d es
) — I n F ra nc e .
,

e sp ec ially i n t he so uth e r n part wh er e t he c ulti vatio n of ,

t he v a rio u s flow ers s uch as ros es vi ol ets m ig no nett e

, , , ,

h eliotrop e et c is carri ed on o n an extensi ve sca l e t he

,
.
, ,

fi ne po mad es a re pr epar ed by t he m ethod pre vio u sly

menti o ned (s ee p 5 8 et .

The maceratio n or extracti o n of the flow ers is efl ected

'

as follows : The fat g ener a lly co nsisti ng of 3 parts l a rd

,

a nd 1 part b eef tallow is m elt ed i n a n ena mell ed v ess e l

-
,

ov er the s tea m or water bath The flow ers i n a cl ea n -

.
 HA IR P OM A D ES , HA IR OI L S A N D TON I C S . 28 7

li nen bag are s usp end ed in t he fa t a nd after cov eri ng ,

t he v ess el the fa t is k ept accordi ng to t he str ength of ,

t he p erfu me of th e r esp ectiv e vari ety of flow e r for a d ay ,

or two m ore at a temp era tu re of fro m 1 33 to 1 4 5 F ° °

.

T he extracted a nd ex ha u st ed flo wers are th en t ak en out ,

s lightly pr ess ed o u t a nd throw n aw a y ,

The sa me o pe .

ratio n with always t he sa me q ua ntiti es of fresh flow ers

is th en re peated t en to twe lv e ti mes with t he sa me fat ,

u ntil i t i s s uffi ci entl y p e rfum ed T he po m ad e th us .

obtai ned to wh ich so me w h it e vas eli ne is freq uentl y

,

a dd ed is t h e n sti rr e d u n ti l cold
,
.

R eceipts for so me flo w e r po m ad es a r e h er e g i v en
P omma d e a la r os a — Extract i n t he m a nner a bov e ,

gi v en w ith 6 lbs of lard a nd 2 lbs of b ee f tallow both

,
. .
-
,

th oro ughly p urifi ed 8 lbs of fresh rose l eav es Treat

,
. .

t he fa t t en to tw el v e ti mes in t he sa me ma nner with a n

eq u al q u a ntity of fresh ros e l eav es .

P omma d e a a l ca ci a —Extract 6 lbs of fresh acaci a

’
. .

flow ers with 2 0 lbs of fat and rep eat the op eratio n t en
.
,

t i m es w ith a l ik e q ua ntity of fr esh flow ers .

P omma d e a a fll e u r d n
o a g
r e — Extract 8 lbs of fresh
’ -
. .

ora ng e flow ers with 8 lbs of fat a nd r ep eat t he op era .

,

tio n eight ti mes wi th a l ik e q ua ntity of fr esh flow ers .

P omma d e a l heli otr op e — Extract 8 lbs of fr esh h eli o

’ ’
. .

trop e flow ers with 8 lbs of fat a nd rep eat th e operatio n

.
,

e igh t to t en t i me s with a n eq u a l q u a nti ty of fresh flow e rs .

A l l si mpl e F r ench po mad es for wh ich flow e rs fur ,

n i sh t he p e rfume are pr ep a re d i n a si mil a r m a nne r

, .

F or po mad es a re chi efly u s ed t he flow e rs of t he gera

n i u m j as m i ne m ig no ne tte hyaci nth t u b e ros e na rciss u s
, , , , , ,

lily etc the po mad es as a r u l e rece ivi ng t he na me of t he

,
.
,

p erfume i m parted to th e m .
2 88 M A N U FA C T U R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

P OM A D E S A C C OR D N G I TO TH E GER M A N M ET H OD .

M ost of t he po m ad es co ns u m ed in Ge r ma ny a re
prepared fro m fresh p u ri fi ed lard a nd bee f tallo w ,
-
,

tho ugh so meti mes ad d itio ns of w a x sp er maceti stea ri n , , ,

castor oil coco a nu t oi l etc a re ma d e or t he po mad e i s

-
, ,
.
, ,

e nti r e ly co mpos ed Of t he l atter fa ts F o r i n fe rior .

q ua liti es of po mad es borax is mu ch us ed si nce i t not , ,

o nly poss ess es t he prop erty of co m bi ni ng a q ua ntity of

w at er w ith t he fa t b u t also m a k es t he po mad e more
,

d urabl e S o a p dissolv ed in h ot wat e r is a lso oft en

.

a dd ed to t he fa t wh e r eby no t o nl co n sid e rabl e wat e r

, y
i s fix ed i n t he po mad e bu t t he l a tter also b eco mes v ery ,

wh it e a nd pli ant I II r egard to po m ad es co ntai ni ng

.

bora x it may be mentio ned th a t safra ni n ha s proved a

,

d ur abl e s u bstance for colori ng the po mad es red whi l e ,

a lka nn i n s uffers alt e r a tio ns .

T he fa bricatio n of po m ad es i s v ery si m pl e The fat .

,

a ft e r b e i ng melt ed a nd so m e wh a t cool ed of
,
f i s g enerally ,

vigoro usly work ed or bea ten with a wood en p estl e or

S pat ul a u ntil i t acq u i r e s a frothy cr ea m li k e app eara nce
, ,
-
.

By th is tr eat men t t he fa t a lso gai ns i n vol u me s m all ai r ,

b ubbl es b e i ng i nclos ed in i t On the o th e r ha nd the fat .

,

i s sti rr ed until cold th en p erfu med a nd po u r ed i nto pots

,
.

T he followi ng m i xt u res of fa t m ay s erv e as s uitabl e

fo u ndatio ns for white po m a d e
I L a rd 6 lbs b ee f t allow 2 lbs
. .
,
-
.

II L ard 6 lbs bee f tallow 3 l bs

. .
,
-
.

III L ard 7 % lbs sp e r macet i 1 % lbs

. .
,
.

IV C astor oil 6 lbs vaseli ne 1 % lbs wax 1 lb

. .
,
.
,
.

V L ard 8 lbs coco a nu t oil 2 lbs

. .
,
.

VI Ca stor oi l 6 l bs sp er macet i 1 lb
. .
,
.

VII L ard 6 lbs cocoa nut oil 3 lbs

. .
,
.
2 90 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

v ia n bark ex tract pre vio usly r ubb ed up with as l ittl e

wat er as possibl e and sti r i n the ta nni n disso lv ed i n t he
,

volatil e oils .

oma d e m —
Q u i n i n e
p ( i ita ti on
) IVo 1 B e n zo a ted l a rd . .

6 lbs .b eef fallo w 2 lbs color ed with prepared cocoa

,
-
.
,

powd er abo u t 1 4 ozs a nd p erfumed with P er u via n .

,

bal sa m 2 % ozs b erga m ot oil citro nella oil a nd eau d e

.
, , ,

C olog ne each 5 % dra ch ms and oils of clov e s lav end e r , , ,

and ci n na m o n each 4 0 drops .

oma d e i mi ta ti on N o 2 — L ard 6 lbs

Q u i n i ne
p ( ) b ee f . . .
,

tallow 2 % l bs cocoa powd e r 1 5 % ozs P eru balsa m 2 %

.
,
.
,

ozs cassia oi l 1 % ozs clov e oil 2 % drach ms oi l of bitter

.
,
.
, ,

al monds 1 0 drops .

B enzoin p oma d e — D ig est for s e v e ral ho u rs i n a wa t er

bath at 1 6 7 F 6 lbs of lard 2 lbs of b ee f fallow and
°
. .
,
.
-
,

1 % lbs of p u l v eri z ed b enzoi n a nd strai n off t he fa t

.
,
.

D ens d o f p oma
r d e — Ca stor oil 6 lbs vaseli ne 1 % lbs
. .
,
.
,

y ellow wax 1 lb b erg a mot oil 2 % ozs l em o n oil 1 % ozs

.
,
. .
,

g era ni um oi l 4 % drach ms .

I ce p oma d e N o 1 — B est oli v e oil 6 . . vas eli ne

a nd sp er mac eti ea ch 1 % lbs b erga mot oil 3 ozs bitte r .
,
.
,

al mo nd Oil 1 1 dra ch m s ros e g era ni um oi l 8 % d rach ms ,

-
,

ci nna mo n Oil 5 % drach m

I ce p oma d e N o 2 — F a t al mo nd oil 6 lbs S p er mac eti
. . .
,

1 % lbs b erga m ot oi l 1 % ozs citro nella oil 1 4 drach m s

.
,
.
, ,

pal m a ros e oi l 2 % drach m s .

F a mily p o a d (m — r e sh lard 6 lbs b ee f t a llow

e r ed ) F . .
,
-

3 l bs b e rgam ot Oi l 1 % ozs oils of l emo n lav end er and

.
,
.
, , ,

ci nna mo n each 1 4 drach ms C olor with alka nnin . .

m m — F
Fa il yp o ad e
(w hi te
) r esh lard 6 lbs b ee f t a llow . .
-

3 lbs l em o n oil 2 ozs sw eet ora ng e oil 1 % ozs b erga

.
,
.
,
.
,

mot oil 1 oz .
 HA I R P OM A D ES , HA I R OI L S A N D TON I CS . 291

F a mily p oma d e — F r esh l ard 6 lbs

( r os e co lor
)
. b ee f
.
,

tallo w 3 lbs pal ma ros e oil citro nella oil a nd

.
,
-
, ,
lav end er
Oil each 1 % ozs C olor wi t h a lka nn i n . .

m —
F a i lyp o ma d e
(y el lo w) F r esh lard 6 lbs b ee f tallow . .
-

3 l bs b e rg a m ot oil 1 % ozs ca ssia oil 14 dra ch m s clov e

.
,
.
, ,

Oi l 8 % drach ms thy me oi l 5 % drach ms C olor with,

.

l ed erin or a nnotto .

F a mi lyp oma d e (br own) F resh lard 6 lbs b ee f tallow . .

,
-

3 lbs ca ssia oi l 1 % ozs caraway oil 1 oz s wee t ora nge

.
,
.
,
.
,

Oil a nd clov e o i l each 1 1 % drach m s C olor brow n wit h .

cocoa powd er l ed erin or u m ber , ,

.

S tr a wber ry p oma d e ; F resh rip e strawb e rri es 1 % lbs -

.
,

fresh lard 6 l bs fresh b ee f tallow 2 lbs rose Oil 5

,
.
,
-
.
,

drops .

P ut the strawb e rri e s i n a cl ea n li ne n bag a nd d igest ,

th em for so me ti me w ith the fa t in t he wate r bath -

.

Th en m od e rately pre ss t he stra wb errie s color w ith ,

a lk a nn i n a nd fi na lly p e rfu m e
,
.

F ine ha i r p oma d e — F resh lard 8 lbs cocoa nut Oil .

,

a nd wax each 1 lb berga m ot Oil 3 ozs l em o n Oil 1 % .

,
.
,

ozs gera nium oi l 5 % dra ch m s m usk ti nct ure 1

.
, ,

P oma d e for p r omoting the g r ow th of the ha ir — L ard

6 lbs bee f fallow 2 lbs ti nct u re of ca n tharid es 1 0 % ozs
.
,
-
.
,
.
,

l emo n oi l 2 % ozs bergam ot Oil 2 ozs ci nna m o n oil .

,
.
,

1 % drach ms .

Heliotr op e p oma d e fines t qu a lity — L ard treated with ,

b enzoi n 6 lbs b ee f tallow treat ed w ith b enzoi n 2 lbs

.
,
.
,

h eli otropi n 3 % drach m s d issolv ed in a s mall q ua nti ty of ,

t he fat h eated to abo u t 1 1 1 F ne rol i o il 3 5 drops

°
. .

A p om a d e con t a i n i ng mu s k ca nn ot be u s ed by e v e ry on e , S i nce
i n n er vo u s p e r s ons i t m ay r ea d il y ca us e h e a d ach e .
2 92 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

Heli otr op e m a d e — F r esh

lard 6 lbs fresh b eef
p o .
,

t allow 2 l bs .
,
P e r bals a m 2 %
ozs ca ssi a oil 1 % ozs
u .
, .
,

clov e Oil 8 % drach ms arti ficial bitter — al m o nd oil 1 % ,

drach m s .

J a s m i ne
p o m a d e — B e nzo at ed lard 6 lbs b en zoat
. ed .
,

b eef t allow 2 lbs fat j as mi ne oi l 2 % lbs ros e oil 2 5 .

,
.
,

d rops .

Emp er or p oma d e — M elt tog eth e r 7 3

lbs of fresh . .

ol i v e oil 2 lbs of ca stor oil a nd 2 % lbs of S p er m a ceti

,
.
,
. .

P e rfum e wi th fa t j a s m i ne Oil 7 ozs T urkish ros e Oil a nd .

,

b erga m ot oi l each 2 % drachm s nerol i oil 5 0 d rops g era , ,

n i um oi l 2 0 d rops orri s root oi l 1 0 drops h eliotropi n

,
-
,

drach m a nd c umari n T 0 drach m

,
1
.

D issol v e the h eliotropi n and c um a ri n in a portio n of

t he fa t h eat ed to 1 1 1 F add t he sol ut i on t og eth er with
°
.
.
, ,

t he oth e r p e rfu m e m at e ri a ls to t he fat b e for e i t con -

,

g eals th en po u r the po made i nto j ars and allow it to

,

cool slowly .

IlI a ca ss a r p oma d e — Ca stor o il 6 l bs v as eli ne 1 % .

,

lbs w ax 1 l b b e rga m ot oi l 2 ozs cassia oil a nd ci n

.
,
.
,
.
,

na mo n Oi l each 1 oz ros e g era n i um oil 2 % dr a ch m s .

,
-
.

P or tug a l p oma d e — F r esh lard 4 lbs whit e vas eli ne .

,

1 l b w ax 3 % ozs P ort ug a l oil 2 ozs b erga m ot oil 1 %

. .
,
.
,

ozs caraway oil 2 % drach m s

.
,
.

H e r b p om a d e — M elt t o et lier fr esh lard 8 lbs

g . Japa .

nes e wax a nd bayb erry oil ea ch 3 % ozs i m prov e t he .

,

color w ith chlorophyl a nd p erfu me with l emo n Oil 1 4 ,

drach ms b erga mot oi l 1 1 dra ch m s clov e oil 5 % drach ms

, , ,

gera ni um oil 3 % drach ms and a few drops of c urly m i nt ,

oil.

L a noli n p oma d e — Be nzoated fat 4 l bs , b enzoi n . .

i zed oli v e Oi l a nd la n oli n each 2 lbs b erg amot oil 3 % .

,
2 94 M A N U FA C T U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

l a v e nd er oil each 1 4 drach ms ne roli oil 6 % drach ms ,

.

C olor ros e color with a lk a nn i n .

F ine p oma d e — Be nzoat ed l a rd 6 l bs b e n zoat ed b ee f

. .
,

tallow 2 l bs l e mo n oil 2 ozs sw eet ora ng e oi l 1 % ozs

.
,
.
, .
,

b erga m ot oi l 1 oz C olor y ellow with a nnott o . .

B eef ma r r ow p oma d e —M el t t oget he r 4 l bs of l a rd

-
. . .

a nd 1 l b of b ee f m arrow. or 4 l bs of l a rd 1 4 ozs of
-
, ,
.
,

sp erm aceti a nd 1 % ozs of y ellow w a x color y ellow a nd

,
.
,

p erfume with l e m o n oi l 1 4 drach m s berga mot oil 6 % ,

d rach ms and a fe w d rops of clov e oi l

,
.

R og ers s p o ma d e fo r p rod u cing a bea r d — L ard 7 % l bs

’
.
,

y ello w wax l h fi ne ca ntha rid es powd e r 1 0 % ozs b e rga

.
,
.
,

m ot oil 1 % ozs oils of l em o n ci nna mo n a nd lav e nd er

.
, ,

e ach 1 1 d rach m s .

R os e p oma d e — F r esh l a rd 6 l bs fresh b ee f tallow 2 .

,
-

lbs pal ma rosa oil 2 % ozs citro nell a oil 1 1 drach ms

.
,
.
, ,

alka nn i n for colori ng 1 to 1 % ozs .

F ne r os e p ma e
i o d — F r es h lard 2 % l bs sp er ma c eti ,
.

a nd fa t al mo nd oi l e a ch 3 % ozs ros e g era ni um oi l 1 %

,
.
,

ozs bitte r al m o nd oil 1 % ozs

.
,
.

F ines t r os e p oma d e — F a t ros e oil 2 % lbs S p er mac eti .

,

7 ozs .whit e w a x 3% ozs ros e —

g era ni u m oi l 1 % ozs
, , ,
. .

ros e oil a nd b erga mot oi l each drach m C olor red ,

.

w ith a lk a nn i n .

S a licyli c p oma d e — F resh lard 7 lbs wh it e wax 1 l b .

,
.
,

fa t j as m i ne oi l 1 % lbs P e r u b a lsa m 5 % ozs s alicyl i c . .

,

acid 2 ozs dissol ved i n al cohol 4 ozs

.
,
.

Victor ia p oma d e — M elt tog eth er 3 % lbs of fat al mo nd .

Oil a n d 1 0 % ozs of wh i t e w a x a nd p e rfu me the m ixt u r e

.
, ,

wh en q u ite cool ed o ff w i th fat j as mi ne oi l l b ros e ,

.
,

oil a nd ge ra n i u m oi l each 1 d rach m C olor ros e color .

w ith al kann i n .

To nka p oma d e — L a rd 7 % lbs S p e r m ac eti l h c u ma .

,
.
,
-
 H A IR P OM A D E S , HA IR OI L S A N D TON I CS . 2 95

r in 4% drach ms dissolv ed ,
in a s mall portio n of the warm

F i ne va nilla oma d e — B e nzo a t ed l a r d 6 lbs b eef

p . .
,

tallow 2 lbs va nill a 2 % dra ch ms dissolv ed i n

.
, ,
a s ma ll
portio n of t he w a r m fat .

Va nilla p oma d e — L a rd a nd vas el i ne each 2 lbs wax .

,

3 % ozs P er u vi a n balsa m 1 % ozs bitt er al mo nd oil

.
,
.
,
-

drach m ci nnam o n oil 2 0 drops

,
.

Vi olet p oma ed — L a rd 4 l bs v as eli ne 2 l bs w a x 5 % . .

,
,

ozs S p er ma cet i 1 % ozs fat orris root oil 2 lbs b erga

.
,
.
,
-
.
,

m ot oi l 3 % drach ms clov e Oil 2 % drach ms ci nna mo n oil

, ,

drach m ros e oil d rach m ,

.

l Va lnut p oma d e — Work i n a m ortar to a u n iform p a ste

l b of fresh gree n w a l n ut sh ells a nd 2 ozs of al um
.
-
. .

D ig est t he past e w ith 2 % l bs of be nzoi nized lard a nd .

t a llo w i n t he wat e r bat h unti l t he fat app ears cl ear -

.

Th e n stra i n of the fat sti r u nti l cold a nd p erfu m e , ,

w it h 1 % d rach m s of nerol i oil and dra ch m of ros e Oil .

D —
V A S E L I N E P OM A ES Vaseli ne po mades co nsisti ng .

neith e r of a n a n i mal n o r of a v eg etabl e fa t b ut al most ,

entir ely of a m i ne r a l fat for m a sp ecial d ivi sio n of ,

po mad es On acco unt of its good prop er t i es a nd ch ea p

.

ness v as eli ne wh ich i s obta i ned fro m p etrol e um r esi

, ,

d ues etc has for s e v eral y ears p ast b ee n m uch us ed i n

,
.
,

t he pr eparatio n of po m ad es T he po m ad es prepar ed .

fro m vas eli ne a re no t o nl y v ery s uita bl e for o ili ng t he

h a i r a s th ey nev er beco me ra ncid b ut may a lso a d
, ,

v a nta eo us l b u s e d a s a r emed y for chapp ed S k i n

g y e ,

i nfla m ma t io n c uts b u r ns et c ,
F or po mad es odorl ess
, ,
.

vas eli ne has t o be u s ed 1 lb of it req u iri ng abo u t 5 % to ,

.

8 % d rach m s of p erfu me L ed er in wh ich has b een p re .

,

v io us l y m entio ned is b est s u ited for colori ng t he po m ad e s

, .
2 96 M AN U FA CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

Wh e n u s ed for po mad es vas el i ne th o ugh by itself s uffi ,

ci e nt for t he p u rpos e freq uently r ece iv es a n additi o n of

,

para ffi n w a x (mostly ceresi n) a nd lard To vas eli ne

, , .

po mad es i ntend ed for e xp or t to war m cl i mates an a ddi ,

tio n of to c er esi n is req u ir ed .

The followi ng m ixt u res g i v e good fo u ndatio ns for

vas el ine po mad e
I Y ello w or wh ite v a s el i ne 2 parts para ffi n 1
.
, .

I I V a s eli ne 5 parts p a ra ffi n or c er esi n 1

.
,
.

III V a s el i ne 3 parts c eres i n 1

.
,
.

IV Vas eli ne a nd lard each 1 0 parts cer esi n 1

.
,
.

T he po mad es a re prepared by first m el t i ng th e para ffi n

or c e res in a nd th en S lowly sti rri ng i n t he vas el i ne Wh en .

t he fa t co m mences to t h ick en t he p e rfu m e is a dd e d a nd ,

t he po mad e po u r ed i nto j ars or t in box es .

A fe w good r ece ipts for vas el i ne po mad es a re h e r e

g iv e n .

B o uq uet vas eli ne poma d e — V Vhite v a s eli ne a nd fr esh

l a rd each 2 l bs c eresi n 3 % ozs b erg a m ot oi l 1 % ozs
.
,
.
,
.
,

lav end er oi l 6 % drach ms ci nna mo n oil 5 % drach ms , ,

ne roli oi l 3 % drach m s g era ni u m oil 2 % drach m s

,
.

F a mily vas eline p oma d e — P a l e y ellow v a s el i ne 1 0 l bs .

Oils of b e rg a m ot a nd l em o n s each 1 o z citro nella oi l .

,

1 2 % drach ms cass i a Ol l 8 % drach ms l a v end e r oi l 4 %

, ,

drach ms clov e oil 3 % drach m s ; or b erg a mot oi l 2 ozs

, ,

pal m a rose oi l 1 % ozs l a v e nd er oil 5 % drach ms

-
.
,
.

h
L ily of t e va ll y va s el i n m d
a e — W h it e v a s eli ne a nd
e e
p o

fresh lard each 2 3 % ozs b erga m ot oil 1 o z .

,
.
,

yl a ng yl a ng oil 2 % d rach m s l icar i oil drach m

-
,
.

N e o li v li n m d — Vas eli ne 1 0 lbs c e r esi n 2

r as e e
p o a e .
,

l bs g e ra ni u m oi l 1 o z ner ol i n 3 % drach m s di ssolv ed

.
,
.
, ,

i n a s m all portio n of t he war m fat .

2 98 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

par af
fin 1 lb . oil
,
b ergamot 1% ozs ros e gera n i um Oil 1
.
,
-

oz .
,
lav end er 8 % drach ms . C olor r ed w ith al k a nni n or
l ed er i n .

E oma d e —
fi
xtr a ne va s eli neWh it e vas eli ne 4 l bs
p .
,

c eresi n 1 0 % ozs berga m ot oi l 1 % ozs l em o n oi l 9

.
,
.
,

dra ch ms pal ma rosa oi l 2 % drach ms

,
-
.

S tick p oma d es — B esid es t he soft u nct uo u s po mad es ,

th s far tr at d of w e h av e a solid prod ct the s o

u e e ,
u —
c a ll ed stick po mad es Th es e po mad es wh ich s erv e for
-
.
,

t h e b ett er fast e ni ng of t he hai r a r e bro ught i nto co m ,

merc e e ith er as w a x p oma d es or r es i n p oma d es t he ,

for mer b ei ng prepar ed fro m a m i xt u re of l a rd t a llow , ,

a nd wax a nd t he l a tt e r fro m t a llow wax a nd r esi n to

, , , ,

which so m e V enetia n t u rp e nti ne m ay be a dd ed .

T he followi ng m i xt u res gi v e good fo u ndat io ns for

stick po m ad es
I F r ench flowe r po mad e 4 p a rts wh ite wax
.
,

II F r esh bee f tallow 3 parts fresh lard 1 wax

.
, ,

III B est b ee f tallow 5 p a rts yellow w a x 1

.
,
.

IV Tallow 1 0 parts wax

. r esi n 1 V ene tia n t ur
, ,

p enti ne
V Tallo w 8 % parts r esi n ceresi n
.
,

VI Tallo w 4 parts pal e r esi n 1 y el lo w wax

.
, ,

V II Ta llow 1 0 parts w a x 2 pal e r esi n 1

.
, ,
.

VIII Oli v e Oil 2 parts p ure steari n 1 y ellow wax 1

.
, ,
.

Tallow 9 % parts ceresi n ,

X B est bee f tallo w 1 0 parts y el low w a x

.
-
,

T he u s ual process of ma nu fa ct uri ng stick po m ad e is -

as follows : M elt t he fat wax and r esi n i n t he w ater ,

bath th en strai n t he mixt ur e and cool i t off by co nsta nt

,

stirri ng u ntil a th i n fil m is formed u po n the s urfa ce .

Th e n p erfume a nd po u r i nto t in m o ulds of oval ro und ,

 H A IR P OM A D ES , HA IR OI L S A N D TON I CS . 2 99

or sq u are form a nd of vari o us siz es A dozen of su ch .

t in m o ulds of t he sa m e siz e a re g enerally sold er ed

togeth e r a nd a re provid e d b elow e ith er with a h inged
pi ece or th ey a re op en I n t he latter cas e th ey are
,
.

pl ac ed u po n a t i n s u pport with a h igh edge wh ich serv es

for t he recepti o n for t he fat escapi ng fro m a ny of t he
m o ulds T he cold po mad es a r e p u sh ed o ut by mea ns of
.

sticks of wood fitti ng exa ctly i nto t he mou lds Th ey .

a re t he n w ra pp ed i n t in foil l a b ell ed a nd bro ught i nto -

,

co mme rc e .

S tick po m ad es a re e ith er wh it e ros e color y e llo w

-
, , ,

brow n or bl ack ; alk a nni n l ed er in um b er F ra nk , , ,

fort black etc bei ng us ed a s colori ng su bsta nces

,
.
,
.

I n t he fol lowi ng so m e r ece ipts for wax a nd r esi n

po mad es a re g i v e n
R o s e w a x p om a d
-
e — B est fa ll o w 6 lbs b e st lard 2 .
,

l bs wh it e w ax 3 l bs color ed with a lka nni n

.
,
-
P erfume .
,
.

L e mo n oil 1 o z l a v end er oil 1 4 dra ch m s g era ni u m oi l

.
, ,

1 1 drach ms clov e oil 6 % dra ch ms ; or b e rga m ot oil 1

, ,

oz.
,
oils of gera ni um cassia a nd P ort ugal each 1 0 , ,

drach ms clov e oi l 3 % drach m s,

.

B la ck w a x p oma d e — B est ta l low 1 0 lbs y ellow wax

-
.
,

1 % lbs color ed w ith F ra nkfort black

.
, P erfume Ber .

ga m ot oil 3 % ozs cassi a oi l 1 3 % dra ch ms ; or b e rga m ot .

, ,

oi l 3 % ozs citro nella o il 6 % drach m s

.
, .

B lo nd e w a x p oma d e — Be st t a llo w 6 lbs b est lard 2 .

,

lbs w hi te or y ellow wax 3 lbs P erfume : C lov e o i l

.
, .

1 % ozs l em o n Oil b erg a mot oil a nd P er u b a ls a m each

.
, ,

1 4 drach ms ; or b erga m ot Oil 2 % ozs cassia oil 5 %

, .
,

drach ms th y me o il 2 % drach ms, .

B r o w n w ax
p oma d e — B e st t allo w 1 0 lbs y e llow wax .
,

2 lbs colored with u mb er

.
,
P erfume : C itro nella oi l .
300 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y
2 ozs clov e Oil 1 2 % d rach ms b erga mot oil 8 % drach ms
.
, , ,

a nis e s eed oil 6 % drach ms or b erg a mot oil 2 % ozs cas

-
,
.
,

sia oi l 1 % ozs clov e oi l 5 % drach m s .

,
.

Cheap w a x p oma d e (colo r a s d es ir ed ) — Best t allow 9 %

-
.

l bs c eresi n
.
,
lb. P erfume L a v e nd er Oil 1 % ozs cas .
,

sia oil 1 oz pal ma ros e Oil 1 1 d rach m s ; or b erg a mot

.
,
-
,

oil 1 % ozs pal ma rosa oil 1 o z lav end e r oil oz

.
,
-
.
,
.

R es in p oma d e N o 1 — B est t a llow 10 l bs y ellow w ax . . .

,

2 l bs pa l e resi n 1 lb
.
,
P erfume : B erga mot Oil 1 % ozs . .
,

cassia oi l 1 4 d rach ms la vend er oil 1 1 drach ms clov e oi l , ,

8 % drach ms thy me oil 5 % d ra c h m s ,

.

R es in p oma d e N o 2 — B est tallo w 1 0 lbs y ellow . . .

,

w a x 2 % lbs pal e resi n 1 lb V enetia n t urp enti ne

.
,
.
,

4 ozs P erfu me : C assia oil 2 % ozs lav end er oi l 1 oz

. .
,
.
,

l e mo n grass oil 1 1 dra ch ms clov e oil a nd thy me oi l each

-
,

5 % d rach m s .

C h a in m d — B est t allo w 8 % l bs pal r si n

e
p r es
p o a e e e .
,

a nd pal e c e r esi n ea ch 1 3 ozs P erfume : B e rga m ot o i l .

3 % ozs cassia oil 9 % drach ms thy m e oil 5 dra ch ms ; o r

.
, , ,

P ort ug a l oil 2 % ozs cassia o il 1 oz lav end e r oil 5 % .

,
.
,

dra ch ms .

H A I R OI L S — L i k e po m ad es hair oils a re p e rfumed ,

e ith e r with vol a til e oils or by treat ment w it h larg e r

q u a nt iti es of fresh flo w ers T he oils ob t ai ned i n t he .

latte r ma nner a re k now n as Huiles a nti q ues a nd are ,

t he fi nest a n d m ost e xp ensi v e Vas el i ne oil which i s .

,

ch eap and do es n ot b eco me ra ncid i s al so at present ,

m uch u sed as h a i r oi l To ma k e t he fat oils u s ed as .

h a i r oils m ore d urabl e a nd to protect th e m fro m beco m

ing ra ncid t hey a re also tr eate d wi th b e nzoi n
,
F or .

this p u rpose dig est for three ho urs w ith fr eq uent sti r ,

r i ng I n t he w a te r bath 1 00 lbs of t he oi l with 1 lb of

,
-
. .
302 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

or , wit h b erga mot oi l 2 % ozs l emo n oil 1 % oz g era ni um .

,
.
,

Oil 3 % drach m s .

P er u ha ir o il —B enzo a ted ol i v e oil 1 0 lbs P er u

. .
,

balsa m 3 % ozs cassia oi l 1 1 drach ms

.
,
.

B u r d ock r oot ha ir oil N o 1 — D ig est a t a m od erate . .

h ea t 8 lbs of oli v e oi l or s esa me Oil with 2 lbs of fresh

. .

b u rdock roots th e n po u r off t he o il fro m t he roo t s add ,

7 ozs of castor oil color with a lka nn i n a nd p e rfum e

.
, ,

with b erga mot oil 2 ozs a nd pal ma ros e oi l 1 oz .

-
.

B u r d ock r oot ha i r oi l N o 2 — C olor 1 0 l bs of ben . . .

zoa ted ol i v e oil pal e gree n w ith chlorophyl a nd er

p ,

fume wi th be rga mot oi l 2 ozs gera ni u m o il 1 % ozs .

,
.
,

a nd lav end e r oi l 1 1 drach ms .

M a cas s a r ha i r oi l N o 1 — Benzo at ed ol iv e oi l 1 0 lbs

. . .
,

ge ra n i u m oil a nd l em o n oil each 1 % ozs cassia o il 1 4 .

,

drach ms C olor red with alka n ni n

. .

M a cass a r oil N o 2 — Benzoated oli v e Oil 1 0 l bs

. . .
,

colore d w ith al ka nni n a nd p erfumed wi t h b erga mot oil,

1 % ozs l e mo n oi l 1 % ozs ci nna m o n oi l 1 drach m m u sk

.
,
.
, ,

e ss enc e l d rach m .

N er o li ha i r oil — Benzo a t ed ol i v e oi l 1 0 lbs nerol i n

. .
,

5 % drach ms di ssolv ed i n a s mall q ua ntity of war m o i l ,

ros e oil 1 0 drops .

M ig no nette ha i r oi l N o 1 — Be nzo a t ed ol iv e oil 1 0 . .

lbs cassia o il 1 % ozs gerani u m oi l a nd tol u b alsa m

.
,
.
,
-

ti nct u re each 1 1 drach ms nerol in 1 drach m dissol ved , ,

i n a s mall q ua ntity of war m oil .

M ig nonette ha i r oi l N o 2 — Be nzoated Ol i v e oil 4 . .

l bs fa t m ig no nette oi l 3 l bs tol u bals a m ti nct u re

.
,
.
,
-

3 % ozs .

Fine ha i r o il — Benzoat ed oli v e oil 1 0 lbs l emo n

. .
,

oi l 1 % ozs b erga mot o il 1 5 % drach ms l avend e r oi l 3 %

.
, ,
 HA IR P OM A D E S , H A IR OI L S A N D T ON I CS . 3 03

dra ch ms neroli oil 2 % drach ms ros em ary oil 1 %

, ,

drach ms p etit grain oil 1 dra ch m

,
-
.

—S m
Cheap ha ir o l ( i r e d or
yello w ) e sa e oil or p uri fi e d .

colza oi l 1 0 lbs b erga mot oil 2 % ozs citro nella Oil 1 %

.
,
.
,

ozs m irba ne oil 1 0 drach m s ; or P ortugal oil 2 % ozs

.
, ,
.
,

ca ssia oil 1 oz lav end e r oil 5 % drach ms.

,
.

P ort g a ha
u l i r o i l — Benzoate d ol iv e oi l 1 0 l bs P o r
. .
,

t uga l oi l 2 ozs b erga mot oil 1 % ozs cara w ay oi l 3 %

.
,
.
,

d rach m s .

Ja s m i ne ha i r o il — B enzoat ed ol iv e oil 1 0 lbs . fat .

,

j as m i ne oi l 1 % lbs b erg a m ot oi l 1 % ozs clov e oi l 1 1

.
,
.
,

drach ms ros e g era ni u m oil 4 % dra ch m s nerol in 1

,
-
,

drach m dissolv ed in a s ma ll q ua ntity of warm oil

, ,

thy me oil drach m .

Va s eline ha i r oil N o 1 — Wh ite vas eli ne oil 8 lbs . . .

,

wh ite oli v e oil 2 lbs colored red with alka nni n b erga .
, ,

mot oil 1 % ozs l a v end e r oi l a nd l e m o n oil eac h 1 1

.
,

dra ch m s nerol i oi l 5 % drach ms

,
.

Va s eline ha i r oil N o 2 — Y e llo w vas eli ne oil 8 lbs . . .

,

ol i v e oi l 2 lbs cassi a oil 1 % ozs l em o n grass oil 1 oz

.
,
.
,
-
.
,

clov e oil oz .

Va ni lla ha i r oi l — Be nzoated ol i v e oi l 1 0 l bs va ni l
. .
,

l in d issolv e d in a s m a ll q u a nti ty of war m oil a nd P er u

, ,

ba lsam each 5 % drach ms b e rga mot oi l 1 drach m m us k

, , ,

ti nc t ure 1 0 drops .

—
Y la ng yla ng ha i r oi l — Benzoated ol iv e oil 5 lbs . .
,

yla ng yla ng Oil 2 drach m s rose oil 1 drach m nerol i oil

-
, ,

1 0 drops .

P i locome ha ir oi l
h — M elt togeth er b e nzoat ed oli v e
oil a nd y ellow wax each 2 lbs and wh en abo ut half .
,

cold add fat orris root oil a nd fat j as mi ne oil each 1 %

,
-
,

lbs rose geranium Oil 1 drach m a nd stir until cold

.
,
-
,
.
30 4 M AN U FA CTU R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

S u lta na ha i r oi l .
—B enzoat ed
ol i ve Oil 1 0 l bs ,
.

colored red with alk a nni n b erg am ot oi l 1 % ozs l a v end er ,

.
,

o il 8 dr a ch m s ci nna m o n oil 7 dra ch m s nerol i oi l 5 %

, ,

drach m s g era n i um Oil 3 % drach ms m u sk ti nct ur e 1

, ,

drach m .

R os e ha ir oi l — B enzo a t ed oli v e oi l 1 0 lbs color ed .

,

pal e r ed with a lka nn i n g era ni um Oil 2 ozs b erga mo t , .

,

oi l 1 oz cassia oi l 1 4 drach m s
.
,
.

T onka ha i r oi l — B enzo a t ed ol iv e oil 1 0 lbs c uma r in

. .
,

1 0 dra ch m s dissolv ed i n a s mall q u a ntity of war m oil

,
.

Vi o let ha i r oi l Benzoat ed ol i v e oi l 1 0 lbs

. fat .
,

orris root Oil 3 l bs b erga mot oi l 6 % drach ms clov e oil

-
.
, ,

3 % drach m s ci nna m o n oil 1 drach m ros e oil

,
drach m ,
.

Vi ctor i a ha ir oil — B en zo a t ed ol iv e oil 1 0 lbs S lightly .

,

color ed w ith alka nni n pal ma rose Oil lav end er oil a nd ,
-
, ,

citro nella oil each 1 o z mu sk ti nct ure 1 % drach m s .

,
.

C h ea
p ha i r o il Ivo 1 — S unfl o w er oi l 5 00 dr a ch m s
. .
,

b erga mot oi l 3 rosemary oi l 1 l em o n oil 1 nerol i a nd

, , ,

th y me Oil each
C heap ha i r oi l N o 2 S u nfl ow e r oil 5 00 drach m s
. .
-
,

l emo n Oil 2 ros emary oil 3 lav end er oi l 5 g eran i um

, , ,

Oil 1 m u sk ti nct u r e
,
thy me oi l 1 .

B A N D OL I N E s —Ba ndoli nes a re m uci l agi no us liq uids

.
,

a nd a re pr epar ed fro m s u bs t a nc es for m i ng mu cil ag e ,

s uch as g um tr agacanth g u m ara bic Japanese g el a ti ne

-
,
-
, ,

q ui nce seeds flax seed et c G um arabic adh eri ng v ery

, ,
.
-

fir mly its use h owe v er ca nnot be r eco mmend ed The

, , ,
.

s u bstances a bov e m entio ned are h eated with water unti l

t he m ucil agi n o us m att e r is ex tract ed The latt er i s th en .

strai ned thro ugh a cloth and the m u cil aginou s thick , , .
,

tra nspar ent li q u id th us obtai ned p erfumed Volatil e .

306 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER FU M E R Y
i f i t do es not enti rely pr ev ent ,
t he formati o n of t he an

noyi ng d a ndr uff .

F lower br i llia nti ne N o 1 — C h em ica lly p u r e gl c eri n

. .
y
1% ozs alcoholi c extract N O 2 fro m F rench fl o w er
.
,
.
-

po mad e N o 2 4 1 0 % ozs F re nch huile a nti qu e as mu ch

. .
,

a s r eq u i r ed .

V goro us l y sh ak e t he glyceri n a nd a lcoholic po mad e

°

e xtract i n a glass flask u ntil a un i for m fl u id is for med ,

wh ich sho uld be cl ea r as wat er To gi v e i t h ow ev er .

, ,

a n oi ly app ea ra nce car e fully m ix with i t a l ittl e sa n

,

d e rs wood ti nct u re a nd t urm eric ti nct ure F ill t he

-
.

br illi a nti ne gl a ss es h alf full with t he a bov e mi xt u r e a nd

fi l l u p t he gl a ss es with F r en ch hu i le a nti q u e of t he s a me
fl o w er— p erfume as the respe cti v e alcoh olic flo w er
po mad e extract but do not S hak e th i s b ei ng d o ne only
, ,

wh en u sed .

Owi ng to the co nt ent of glyceri n wh ich as w ell , ,

k now n is non volatil e t he co ns u m pti o n of thi s br ill ian

,
-
,

ti ne i s v e ry eco no m ica l w h il e it i s mad e v ery agr eea bl e

,

by the fine F r ench flow er p erfumes .

If i t is d esired to prepare t he brillia ntine at l ess cost ,

p ur e alcohol may be s u bsti t uted for t he po mad e extract

a nd a n p e rfu med hai r oi l for th e F r en ch hu ile a nti q ue
y .

B r illia nti ne N o 2 — F or bri llia nti ne of q ua lity II t he

. .
,

glasses are first fill ed h alf full with pe rfumed hair oil
a nd th en fill ed u wit h n o n p e rfu m ed alcohol S ligh t ly -
p
colored with sa nders wood tinct ure or t u r meri c ti nct ure
-
.

G lyce ri n is not us ed a nd h enc e i n thi s ca s e th e oi l w ill

, , ,

be on t he botto m a nd the alcohol b eing light er o n top , ,

.

This brillianti ne co ntai ni ng no gly ceri n i s not so

, ,

e co n o mical as t he pr ecedi ng It e vaporates q uite rapidly .

a nd so meti mes m ak es t he hai r hard esp ec ially that of ,

 HA IR P OM A D ES , HA IR OI L S A N D T ON I CS . 30 7

perso ns h avi ng na t urally dry h a i r H ow e v er th is s eco nd .

,

q ual ity is also q u i te pop ular a nd t he p e rfum er m ust sati sfy

t he d e ma nd s of his c u sto me rs as m uch as possi bl e .

B r illi a ntine N o 3 — Ca s t or oil 1 0 l bs p u re alcohol 5

. .
,
.

l bs P ort ugal oi l 7 ozs clo ve oil 1 % ozs petit gra i n o il

.
,
.
,
.
,
-

1 o z ca ssia oil 1 o z ci tro nell a oil 1 1 d ra ch ms

.
,
.
,
.

M ix t he a l coh ol a nd Ca s t or oil i n a gl ass fl a s k t h en add -

,

t he volati l e oils a nd sha ke v igoro us l y If t he ca stor oil .

is p u re and genui ne it forms a n i nt i m ate m i x t ure w it h

,

t he a lcohol ; i f o n t he o t h e r h a nd tr a ce s of oil a pp ea r
, ,

o n t he s u rfac e of t he fl u id t he cas t or oil is ad u l t er a t e d ,

wi t h o t h er fat Oils and uns uitabl e for t his p u rpose The .

castor oi l sho u ld a lso be as fresh a s possi bl e a nd und er ,

no co nditio ns ra nci d ,
.

If this brillia nti ne i s d esi red of a so mewh a t yellowish

color t he o bj ect may be a ttai ned by t he ad ditio n o f
,

sa nd ers wood ti nct ure or t urm eric t i nct u re

-
.

That t h is brill i a nti ne is of a n i nfe rior q uality is S how n

by its co mpositio n It ha s t he fu rt h er d isadva nt ag e
.

t hat it pl a sters t he hai r esp ecially wh en t he c a s t or oil,

b eco mes ol d How ev e r th ere a re co ns u mers w i t h

.
,

who m th is q ual ity is q u ite pop ular .

The followi ng for m ulas for brillia nti ne a re tak en fro m

vario us so u rces
I V ea l fa t 4 ozs sper macet i 2 ozs castor Oil 1 2 ozs ,
. .
,
.
,
.

oil of bit te r al mo nds 1 drop oi l of clov es 1 0 drops oi l , ,

of b erga mot 20 drops M elt togeth er t he first t hr ee .

i ngredi ent s and ad d t he pe rfu mes wh en nea rly cold

, .

II A l mo nd oi l 2 % lbs S p er ma ceti l b oil of l em o n

. .
,
.
,

3 ozs M elt t he sp er macet i at a low te mp erat u re ; a dd

.

t he oi l a nd h eat u nt il a l l flak es d isa pp ear L et t he j a rs .

308 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y
i nto wh ich i t is to be po u red be wa r m and th en cool as ,

slowly as possi bl e to i ns ur e good crystals .

The followi ng altho ugh so m e what p ec u liar is offe r ed , ,

as a good brill i a nti ne

III H o ney 1 fl uid o z glyceri n a nd C olog ne water
. .
,

e ach fl uid o z alcohol 2 fl uid ozs M ix .

,
. .

—
HA I R T ON I CS Hair to nics s erv e for cl ea ns ing a nd .

i nvigorati ng t he scalp a nd for pre v enti ng t he hai r fro m

falli ng o ut G lyceri n havi ng a beneficial effect upon t he
.

scalp is much u sed as one of t he co nsti t uents The to nics .

also freq uently co ntai n i ngredi ents said to pro m ote t he

growth of t he h air s uch as P er uvia n bark ex tra ct q ui , ,

ni ne ti n ct u r e of c a ntharid es a nd s ubsta nc es co ntai ni ng

, ,

ta nni n Hai r to nics co ntai n i ng ti nct ure of ca nth arid es

.

S h o uld h ow e v e r not be too fr eq uently u s ed as oth e r

, , ,

wi se an ex cessi ve sti m ulatio n of t he scal p m ight be t he

r es ult wh ich wo uld b e m ore i nj u rio us tha n beneficial to
,

t he growth of t he hair .

S o m e r ec eipts for hai r to nics a re h ere giv en .

Ea u A t en n
h i e ne — A lcohol of b est q uali ty 8 q uar ts
’

.
,

va nilla ti nctu re 1 % l b c umari n ti nct ure 7 o zs berga mot .

,
.
,

Oil 3 % ozs ros e g era ni um oil 1 1 drach m s clov e oil 1 4

.
,
-
,

drach ms .

A fter 8 days add 1 q uart of ros e wat er and mix ,

thoro ughly .

F lor id a w a ter N o 1 — A lcohol 50 q u art s b est lav en . .

,

d er oi l 3 lbs b erga mot oil 1 l h A frica n ros e—

.
,
gera ni u m .
,

oil l b ti nctu r es of sa nd ers wood and t ur meric each

.
,
-

1 1 drach m s distill ed wat er 1 6 q u arts

,
.

The alcoh ol volat il e oil s and ti nctu res are i nti mately
, ,

m ix ed i n a glass balloo n th en allow ed to st a nd two to ,

thr ee w eeks wh en t he d istill ed water is add ed a nd t he

 10 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

balloo n m ight b u rst C olor the water with coch i nea l .

t i nct u re or h e nn a ti nct ur e .

E a u d e
q u i n i n e
(i m i ta ti o n ) — A lcohol 2 5 q u a rts va nilla .
,

ti nct ure N o 2 2 q ua rts P ort ugal oil 1 l h pal marosa

.
, ,
.
,

oi l 8 ozs clo ve oi l 3 % ozs glyc eri n of 2 8 B 3 l bs

.
,
.
,
°
. .
,

P a na ma wood 3 l bs boil ed i n ra i n wat er 2 0 q ua rts .

,
-
,

bicarbo nate of sod a 1 l b dissol v ed i n rai n w at er 1 .

,
-

q uart P roceed i n t he m a nner gi v e n for genu i ne Ea u

.

d e q ui nine C olor wit h h enna ti nct u re

. .

Honey w a ter — A lcohol of b est q ua lity 8 q uarts orri s ,

root ti nct ure 1 q ua rt a ng elica ti nct ur e 1 l b to nka bea n ,

.
,
-

e xtra ct 1 % ozs t urm eric ti nct ure as colo ri ng matter 5 %

.
, , ,

d rach ms P ort ugal oil 7 % ozs l em on oil 1 % ozs cit

,
.
, .
,

r o nella oil 5 % dr a ch ms A fter 8 d ays add 1 l ite r of .

ora nge fl ow e r w ater

-
.

Glycer in ha ir toni c — G lyce ri n of 2 8 B 1 q u art °

.
,

borax 1 o z ros e wate r 2 q uarts alcohol 4 ozs oi ls of

.
, ,
.
,

p etit grai n a nd clove s eac h 2 drach ms ros ema ry o il 4

-
,

drach m s .

D issolv e t he borax i n the wate r t he p erfu me i n t he ,

alcohol a nd m ix a l l togeth e r I t sh o uld be cl ea r C olor

,
. .

y ello w i f d esired with sa ffro n ti nctu re

, ,
.

—
Ea u l u s tr a l ( h a i r r es to r a tiv e
) C astor oi l 2 q u arts l in .
,

s eed oi l a nd t i nct u re of ca ntharid es each 4 ozs a lcohol .

,

1 3 q uarts b e rga mot Oil 2 ozs l e mo n oil 1 oz clov e Oil

,
.
,
.
,

oz. ne rol i oi l 2 drach m s

,
.

M ix t he two fat oils a nd dissol ve th em i n t he alcoh ol

by agitatio n Th e n a d d t he ti nc t ure of ca ntharid es a nd
.

t he p erfumes a nd color red with cochi neal t inc t ure or

,

h e nna ti nct ure .

Tea ha i r to n i c — Bay r u m 2 ozs glyceri n 2 ozs alco

. .
,
.
,

hol 2 ozs i nfusio n of bl a ck t ea 1 0 ozs M ix a nd per

.
,
.
 HA IR P OM A D E S , HA IR OI L S A ND T ON I CS . 311

fume to s uit The tea i nfusio n sho uld be m ad e v er y

.

stro ng say 1 oz of best tea (best q ual ity ) to 1 0 ozs of

,
. .

boil i ng water l et sta nd till cool strai n a nd add t he

, , ,

oth e r i ngred ie nts .

L ocock s loti on for t

’
he h a i r — Expr ess ed oil of n ut meg .

5 fl uid ozs oli v e oil a nd stro ng e r wate r of a mmo n i a

.
,

each 2 0 fl u id ozs sp iri t of rosemary 4 0 fl uid ozs ros e

.
,
.
,

water s ufli c ie nt to mak e 2 0 pi nts The abov e S ho uld .

b e m ix ed with S kill b est by grad ually po u ri ng t he co m ,

b ined oils with co nsta nt sti rri ng i nto the stro ng er wate r
, ,

of a m mo ni a pre vio u sly dil uted with t he S pi rit a nd a fter

, ,

wards S lo w ly i ncorpora ti ng t he rose wate r .

S h m l t i n — N e w Engla nd r u m 1 p i nt bay r u m
a
p o o o o .
,

1 2 ozs glyc eri n 2 ozs carbo nat e of a mmo n i u m 1 o z

.
,
.
,
.
,

borax 2 ozs .

S ha m p o o li q u id — T h e r eadi e st ag e nt to prod uc e a good

lath er upo n t he hair of t he h ead is a sol uti o n of pota ssa

or sod a or a dil ute wate r of a mm o n ia The latte r h ow .
,

e v e r owi ng to its p en e trati ng odor is n ot u s uall y l ik ed

, ,
.

T he follo w i ng co m bi natio ns will be fo und s e rvi ce

abl e
I S ol utio n of potassa 4 fl uid ozs borax 1 oz bay
. .
,
.
,

r um fl u id oz ti nct ure of q u ill aga . fl uid oz wate r .

, ,

e no ugh to m ak e 1 6 fl u id ozs This may be sce nted .

accordi ng to tast e .

II F r esh eggs 3 s p ir it of soap 1 % fl u id ozs carbo

.
,
.
,

na t e of potassi u m 1 6 0 grai ns w ate r of a m mo nia 1 6 0 ,

l —
drops O s ugar of c umari n 8 grai ns oils of ros e a nd
i , ,

be rga m ot each 2 drops F re nch gera ni um oil 1 dro p , ,

al mo nd oi l 1 drop ros e water 2 7 fl uid ozs Thoro ughly , .

b eat t he 3 eggs a nd th en dil ute with t he ros e water

, .

Th e n add t he other i ngredi e nts .

312 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

Oil s ugar of c u mari n is pre pared by tritu rati ng 1 part

-

of c u mari n w i t h 9 9 9 parts of s ugar of m il k .

D a nd r uy c ur es — I O i nt m ent of n i trate of merc u ry

f
.

1 d rach m p etrolat u m 7 drach m s

,
M ix C ut t he hair . .

S hort a nd k ee p w ell br ush ed a nd apply t he oi nt me nt ,

e v e ry n igh t fo r a fort nigh t .

II R ed oxid e of m erc ury 1 0 grai ns a mm o niated

.
,

m e rcu ry 1 0 grai ns p etrol a t u m 1 oz ,

M ix a nd a pply .
,

e v e ry n ight .

III C orrosi v e s u bl i mate 3 0 grai ns glyce ri n 5 fl uid

.
,

ozs C ologne water 5 fl uid ozs w a te r s uffi ci ent to m ak e

.
,
.
,

1 5 fl uid ozs M ix to ma k e lotio n N o 1

. . .

B et a naphthol 1 2 0 gra i ns alcoh ol 2 0 fl u id ozs M ix ,

.

to ma k e lotio n N o 2 . .

S al icy l i c acid 1 2 0 grai ns co m po u nd ti nct u re of ben ,

z o in 2 0 fl u id drach m s Ol i v e oi l 1 0 fl u id ozs M ix to
,
.

mak e lotio n N o 3 . .

Wash t he h ead th oro ughly with tereb ene soap ri ns e ,

w ell and dry thoro ughly ; th en r u b i n so me of sol utio n

,

N o 1 a nd a llow to dry th en use N O 2 i n a lik e ma nne r

.
,
.
,

a nd fi na lly apply N o 3 T he tr ea t m ent S h o uld be ca rri ed

. .

o u t d aily for a m o nth a nd th e n e v e ry a lt e r nat e d ay for a

,

fort nigh t T he da ndr u ff disapp ears i n a fe w davs a nd

.

t he hair i n a short ti m e b eco m es v igoro us a nd s u ppl e .

D a nd r ufi lotion — C hloral hydrate 1 drach m glyce ri n

.
,

4 d rach m s ba y r u m 8 ozs
,
.

B a y r um — Ge nui ne hay r u m as bro ught i nto com ,

merce fro m S t Tho ma s i s said to be pr epared b y twi ce

.
,

distilli ng a fine q uality of r u m with the l eav es a nd b erri es

of M yr ci a a cr is or the bay b erry tree The b erri es a re -
.

much rich e r i n volatil e o il tha n t he l ea v es b ut o n acco unt ,

of t he h eight of the t rees t he gath eri ng of t he b erri es ,

3 14 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

oil of oil of pi mento 1 drop acetic eth er 4

b ay oz .
, ,

drops A llow to sta nd at l east 3 w eeks b e fore u si ng

. .

HA I R D Y E S — T he r eq u i re me nts of a good h a ir d ye
.
-

a re that i t ca n be r eadily appli ed that i t co ntai ns n o i nj u ,

rio ns s u bsta nc es and that t he colora tio n be as nat ural

,

a nd d urabl e as possibl e Th ese d e ma nds a re di ffic ult t o

.

fulfil and i t ca nnot b e said that t h ere i s o ne of t he

,

ordi na ry h a i r dy es w hich in e ve ry r esp ect co mes u p to

th e m Black hair dy es giv e t he most nat u ral colora
.

tio n b ut t he p ec u li a r sh ad e of bl ue black hair ca nnot

,
-

be i m itat ed The m edi u m colors light brow n a nd

.
,

blo nd e a re t he l east nat ura l M ost dy es allo w of r a pid

, .

colora tio n tho ugh in ord er to m a k e t he d ec eptio n m ore

, ,

co m pl ete a grad ual colorat io n i s by ma ny p erso ns p re

,

ferred S uch grad ual t ho ugh o nly v ery S lightly dark e r

.
,

colora tio n i s a ttai ned by t he u se of hai r Oils a nd cer

,

ta i n a ni mal fats co ntai ni ng a S light co ntent of s ulph ur

or i ro n s uch as freshly e x p ressed egg Oil a nd neat s foot
,
’
-

oil It was formerly b el i e v ed that egg oil i f u s ed i n

.
,

ti me wo uld ev en pr e v ent t he hair fro m t u r ni ng gray

,
.

T he grad ua l dark eni ng of t he hair may a lso be effected

by agents wh ich a re co nv erted i nto colored co m bi na
,

tio ns o nly by t he at m osph eric oxyge n or t he co nte nt of

s ulph ur in t he h a i r s uch as e xtract fro m nu t S h ells
, ,

t a nni n pyrogallic a cid a nd ma ny m etals t he latte r

, ,

ch i efly i n t he for m of po m ad es o r h a i r oil D il u te a ci d s .

u s ed for so m e ti m e m ak e th e hair so me w hat l ight e r .

M oth ers w ishi ng to k eep t he h a ir of th e i r childre n

blo nd e avoid oils a nd freq uently w ash t he h eads of t he
, ,

ch ildren with vi negar or l emo n j u ice N O coloratio n i s .

,

howev e r d urabl e ; it b eco mes in t he co urs e of ti me

,
 H A IR P OM A D ES , HA I R OI L S A N D T ON I CS . 3 15

grad ual l y w eak er and t he new growth of hair al w a y s

,

r eq u ires afte r coloratio n

-
.

F o r dy ei ng th e hai r m etallic salts a re ch i efly e mploy ed .

Owi ng to th e i r poiso no us actio n t he use of lea d s a lts

for t he p u rpose i s proh i bited i n so me co untri es for ,

i nsta nce in Ger ma ny a nd A u stria

,
S ilver is used i n .

t he for m of ni tra te of s ilver (l u nar ca u sti c) I n the .

pres enc e of organ ic s ubsta nces as w ell as und er t he in ,

fl uence of ligh t th i s co mbi na tio n is r ed uced metalli c

, ,

sil v er i n s mall bl a ck grai ns b ei ng separat ed S i lv er .

salts also giv e a black pr ecipitate of silver s ulph id e wit h

s ul ph u r etted hydrogen By S i mply m oisteni ng t he hai r
.

m
with sil v er sol utio n th ey b eco e brow to bro w black
n n — ,

t he colora tio n a pp eari ng mor e rapidly by pr evio us l y

treati ng t he hair w ith pyroga llic acid or after the a p , ,

pl icatio n of t he si lv er sol utio n with s ulphydra te of ,

sod i u m or potass iu m T he coloratio ns prod uced with

.

n itra t e of S ilv e r a re v e ry d u rabl e b ut i f not d y ed agai n

, ,

for so me ti me t he ha ir acq u ir es a green ish or red dish

,

color th i s be i ng especi a lly t he ca s e i f t h ey w er e not

,

s uffici ently freed fro m fa t b efore d y ei ng F or fr eei ng .

t he hai r fro m fat w a sh t he h a i r with a m ix tu r e of 1 part

,

spirit of sal a mmo nia in 1 0 par t s of bra nd y a nd dry ,

carefully .

Copp er s a lts with cer t ai n s u bsta nces s uch as pot assi um ,

ferrocy a ni d e sol utio n potassi u m s ulphyd rate calci um

, ,

s ulphydrate a nd pyrogallic acid gi v e dark brow n colora

,
-

tio ns Of the copp e r salts t he s ul ph ate i n a mmo niacal

.
,

sol utio n is m ost freq uently em ploy ed tho ugh occasio n ,

ally also the chlorid e Th ese salts gi v e a b ea utifu l

.

brow n color to the hai r S mal l q ua ntiti es of C opp e r salt

.

a re also fr eq ue ntly add ed to t he act ual black dy e s the

3 16 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

hai r by th is mea ns acq u iri ng a bro w n black i nst ead of a -

,

d eep bl a ck color .

A l l t he i r on s a lts with t he exceptio n of t he chlorid e

, ,

m ay be u s ed for dy e i ng t he hai r S ol ubl e i ro n salts by .

th e m s elv es mak e t he hai r so me wh a t dark e r b ut th is ,

slo w nat u ral proc ess is n ot reli ed o n a nd a s eco nd s ub

, ,

sta nce for m i ng dark colored co m bi na tio ns with t he i ro n ,

s uch as s ulph ur ta nni n or pyrogallic acid is as a r ul e

, , , , ,

em ploy ed To th i s cl a ss b elo ngs a Tu r kis h ha ir d ye

.
,

wh ich accordi ng to X L a nd e rer is prepared as follo w s

,
.
,

G a ll nuts co n v erted to a fine po w d e r a re m ix ed with oil

-

a nd roast ed i n a p a n u ntil no more e m p y r e u matic vapors

a nd odor a re e vo l v ed T he black powd e r th us obtai ned

.

i s mad e i nto a paste with wa te r a nd i nto i t i s sti rred a ,

fi nely p u l v eri z ed ma ss pr epared fro m fe rro u s oxid e ,

co p pe r a nd a nti mo ny t he r es ult b ei ng a d eep bl a ck

, ,

m ass . This d ye is call ed R as ti kop etr a (ey ebro w

sto ne) It i s one of t he Ori ental cos met ics us ed by
.

both men a nd wo men .

P ota ssi um p er ma ng a na te s olu ti on is red uc ed by o r

ga ni e s u bsta nces p eroxid e of ma nga nes e b ei ng for med
,
.

A co nc entra ted sol utio n of this salt i mparts to t he hai r

a nd ski n a n i n t e ns e brow n color wh ich how e v e r is no t , , ,

v ery d ura bl e a nd r eq u i res fr eq uent r e ne wi ng

,
.

P yr og a llic a cid may be u s ed for d a rk eni ng t he hai r ,

no t o n ly i n co m bi natio n with met a ll ic s ubsta nc es bu t ,

also by its elf or with a lk a li es Hair m oiste ned with

,
.

pyroga llic acid b eco mes und er the i nfl uence of light a nd

ai r dark gra y to black i sh H ow e v e r t he colo r i s not .
,

handsome a nd ap pears o nly i n t he co u rs e of w eeks I n

,
.

co nnectio n with a lkal i es pyrogall ic acid prod uces a red ,

bro w n to black brow n coloratio n -

.
318 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER FU M E R Y .

i t s ly bl
n en e ue —
black color,
w h ich is extraordi narily
d ura bl e the hair o nly a fter sev eral m o nths r eq u iri ng to
,

be agai n dy ed .

The freshly express ed j uic e a nd t he fresh parenchy ma

of g r een w a lnut shells or of u nri p e wal nuts grad ually
, ,

color ligh t or gray h air d ark to nut brow n The color -

.

i ng s ubsta nce is no t thoro ughly k now n but is v ery ,

lik ely a p hl orogl uc id e ; it is e xtracted by fats and alcohol ,

bu t accordi ng to P aschk is is n o lo ng er effecti v e in s uch

, ,

sol utio n This how ev er i s not Corr ect in regard to t he

.
, ,

al coh ol ic e xtract b eca us e th e extract fro m ordi na ry wal

,

nu t sh ells prepa r ed by m i xi ng t he expr ess ed j u ic e of

,

gree n wal nut sh ells wi th 1 0 par ts of alcohol allowi ng ,

t he m i x t u r e to sta nd for t en d ays a nd th en filteri ng , ,

also colors brow n .

P er oxid e of hyd r og en bl each es orga n ic s u bsta nces ,

dark or red h a ir b e i ng th er eby cha nged to r eddish yel -

l ow o r p al e blo nd e T he coloratio n or rath e r bl ea ch i ng

.
, ,

do es not app ea r a t o nce b ut is co m pl et e o nl y afte r so m e

,

t im e The p e roxid e of hydrog en o nly ex ists in aq ueo u s

.

sol utio n wh ich sho uld be q u ite co ncentrated (1 5 to 2 0

,

O w i ng to t h e m od e of pr e paratio n th e sol u
p er ,

t io n always co nta i ns so me nitric a cid and readily d e

co mpos es wh en expos ed to ligh t and air wh er eb y i t
, ,

b eco m es us el ess .

I n t he followi n g a n u m b er of for
,
m ul ae for hair —
dy es
a re g iv en A ccord ing to th ei r co nstit utio n th ey may
.
,

be d i vid ed i nto t w o gro u ps v i z : A D y es which co n,

.

tai n t h e colori ng matte r in a fi nish ed state ; a nd B ,

.

D y es wh ich a re for med u po n the hai r by a c he m ical

process T he d ye S h o u ld first be a ppl i ed i n a dil ute
.

state a nd t he appl icatio n r ep eat ed i n cas e t he d esi red

,
 HA IR P OM A D ES , H A IR OI L S A N D T ON I CS . 3 19

sha d e i s not prod uced S i nce by the u se of the d ye i n a

,

co ncentra ted form a sh ad e not r esembl i ng a ny na t u ra l

color m ight be obta i ned hai r wh ic h i s to be colored ,

black acq u i ring for i nstance a m et a ll ic bl ue black

'

-
, ,

l ustre .

A S I N G L E HA I R D YE S Teintur e Or i enta le (K a r s i )
. . .

A m b e rgris 2 % d ra ch m s ga ll — n ut s 4 lbs p ulv e riz ed i ro n

,
.
,

1 % ozs p ulv e riz ed copp e r 1 d ra ch m m u sk 1 d rach m

.
, ,
.

C o nv ert t he gall n uts to a fine powd e r a nd ro a st t he

-
,

powd er i n a n i ro n p a n sti rri ng co nsta nt ly unti l it is ,

dark brow n to bl ackish R u b t he powd e r toge th er .

with t he m etallic powd ers and t he p erfume s u bsta nces ,

a nd k ee p t he mixt u re i n a d a m p plac e F o r us e m oisten .

so me o f t he powd e r upo n t he h a nd and apply to t he

-

h a ir r u bbi ng it in vigoro u sly I n a few days t he hair

,
.

acq ui res a d ee p bl a ck q u ite nat ural color I n roasti ng

,
.
,

t he t a nni n s u bsta nc e s co nta i ned i n t he gall nuts a re co n

- -

v erted i nto gallic a nd pyrogall ic acids which yi eld with ,

t he metals co m bi natio ns of a d eep black color and a re ,

e v e n r eadily co nv e rt ed i nto black brow n bodi e s h u m i n

( -

bodi es) .

Teinture Chino is e (K ohol) — G um arabic 1 oz C hi nes e .

-
.
,

i nk 1 % ozs rose w a t e r 1 q uart

.
,
-
R ed uce t he g u m .

ara bic a nd C h i nese ink to fine powd e r and tri tu ra te ,

t he powd er i n s mall q u a nti ti es wit h ros e wate r u nti l a

ho mogeneo us black fl u id free fro m grai ns is for m ed .

C oll ect th is fl u id i n a bottl e a nd m ix i t with t he r e

mai ni ng rose w a t e r K ohol i s o nly s u itabl e for p e rso ns
.

wit h bl ack hai r a nd i s e sp ecially us ed for dy ei ng the eye .

brows The colori ng matte r of this pre paration con

.

sisti ng o nly o f ca rbo n in a v ery fi nely di v id ed state it

'

is p e rfe ctly har ml ess .

3 20 M A N U FA CTU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

P otas s iu m p erma ng a na te ha ir d ye — P otassi um p er

ma ng a nate 5 ozs distill ed wate r 2 q u arts C rysta lli z ed

.
,
.

po ta ssi um p e rm a nga nat e dissolv es w ith great ea s e i n

wate r to a d eep viol et fl u id By bri ngi ng t he sol utio n .

i n co ntact with a n orga ni c s u bst a nc e— p a p e r li nen sk i n , , ,

horn h a ir— it rapidly discolors i mparti ng to the s ub

, ,

stanc es a brow n color wh ich origi na tes fro m p eroxi d e of

,

m a nga nes e .F ree t he hai r fro m fat by wash i ng a nd ,

apply t he dil ute sol utio n wi th a soft br ush The color .

app ears i mm edi ately a nd a ccord i ng to t he d egree of

,

dil utio n all shad es of color fro m blo nd e to dark est

,

brow n m ay be prod uc ed with th is p erfectly har ml ess

ag ent It may of co u rs e also be used for dy ei ng t he
.
, ,

beard .

B i sm u th ha i r d ye — S ub nitrat e of bis mu th 1 0 parts

.
,

1 0 p er cent sol utio n of potassa a nd citric acid ea ch a

.

s uffi ci en t q ua ntity glyce ri n 1 5 0 parts water s uffi ci ent

, ,

to m ak e 3 00 parts I nti mately m ix t he s ub ni trat e of

.

bi s m uth and t he glyc eri n by trit u ratio n th e n h eat t he ,

m ixt ur e i n a water bath a nd gra d ua lly add to it sol u

-
,

tio n of potassa u nd er co nsta nt sti rri ng u ntil the bis

, ,

m uth sal t is dissolv ed N ex t add a co nc entrated sol utio n

.

of citric acid unti l o nly a S light alkali nity r ema i ns .

F i nally add eno ugh water to m ak e 3 0 0 parts a nd p er ,

fume accordi ng to pre fe r enc e .

Wa lnut ha ir dye — Bru is e 4 0 parts of fr esh gr een

wal nut p eel with 5 parts of a l um dig est w ith 2 00 parts ,

of oli v e oil u nti l all m o ist u r e has b een dissi pated strai n ,

a nd p erfu me t he oi l accordi ng to pr e fe r enc e .

li
P yr og a l c ha r s ta in
i — P yrogall ic ac id oz , water 3
. .

o zs , alcohol 1 oz
. This l iq uid g iv es a d ark brow n
.

color .
3 22 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

t he fl u id hot i nto the bottl es as oth erwise m o u ld i s readily ,

for med ) II (in t he dark bottl e) — N itra te of silv e r 5

. .

ozs di still ed w a ter 1 q uart A dd wat er of a mmo nia to

.
, .

t he S ilv er sol uti o n u ntil t he precipitat e at first for m ed is

r edissolv ed .

M ela nog ene I (in t he d a rk bottl e) — N itrate of sil v e r

. .

5 % d rach m s distill ed wat e r 2 % ozs w a t er of a mm o n i a

,
.
,

1 oz . in h —
II ( t e whit e bottl e) P yrogall ic a ci d .

dra ch m 4 0 p er c ent spirit of wi ne 1 7 ozs

,
. .

Ea u d A fr i q u e
’
I (in the dark bottl e) — N itrate of
. .

sil v er 1 % drach ms di still ed w ater 3 % ozs II (in the , .

white bottl e) — S odi u m s ulphid e 4 % drach ms distill ed

.
,

water 3 % ozs .

K r inochr om I (in t he wh it e bottl e) — P yrog allic

. .

acid 5 % dr a ch m s di still ed water 6 % ozs alcohol 5 % ozs

,
.
,
.

II (in t he d a rk bottl e) N i trat e of S ilv er 6 % drach ms .

,

water of a m m onia 2 ozs di still ed water 1 0 % ozs .

,
.

— m
C pp
o er ha i r d ye I (i n t he whit e bottl e
.
) P otassi u .

fe rrocya nid e (y ellow pru ssiate of potash ) 7 ozs dis .

,

ti ll ed wate r 1 q uar t II (in t he dark bottl e) — Cu pri c

. .

s ulph a te (bl ue vi triol ) 7 ozs distill ed water 1 q ua rt .

, .

A d d to t he c upri c s u lph at e sol utio n wate r of a m m o n ia

u ntil t he pal e bl u e pre ci pita t e at fi rst for med is dissol v ed

to a b eau tifu l dark bl ue fl uid This hai r d ye gi v es a dark .

brow n color bu t great care has to be ex erci s ed i n its

,

u s e t he y ello w pr ussiat e of potash b ei ng v ery poi so n o u s

,
.

D E P I L A T OR I E S — Wh il e t he nu mb er of agents for pro

.

mot i ng t h e growth of the hair is a v e ry s mall one a nd ,

th e i r effi cacy not abov e do u bt th er e a re o n the oth e r , ,

ha nd q uite a nu mb er of v e ry effecti v e agents for

,

t he r em oval of hai r s ulph u r co m bi natio n s b ei ng m ost ,

freq uently used for the p u rpose R hus ma i s a d epila .

 HA IR P OM A D E S , H A IR OI L S A N D TON I CS . 3 23

tory which has lo ng b een k now n and is still al m ost ,

e xcl u siv ely u s ed i n t he Ori e nt It co nsists of 1 part .

orpi m en t a nd 6 p a rts of li me S l a k ed to a powd e r M ix .

i nti m ately by passi ng t he i ngredi e nts th ro ugh a S i e v e ,

a nd pres erv e t he m ixt u re i n tig htly clos ed v e ss els F or -

.

us e sti r so m e of t he powd e r to a p a ste with wate r a nd

, ,

apply it to th e pl a ce u po n wh ich the h a irs ar e to be

d estroy ed A s soo n a s th e l ay e r of p a ste b egi ns to dry
.

r em ov e i t w ith a thi n sh a vi ng of wood Owi ng to t he .

e ne rg eti c a cti o n of t his d epil a tory u po n t he sk i n ladi e s ,

a re advi s ed no t to us e i t for t he fa c e .

Co mbi na ti o ns of s ul ph u r with the alk ali es a nd alka

li ne earth s a re m u ch u s ed as d epilatori es Of th es e .
,

s od ium s u l h d r a te how e v e r sho u ld ne v e r be u s ed wit h

p y , ,

o u t t he a dvic e Of a phys icia n as i t a cts v e ry en e rg etica lly

,

u po n the ski n a nd fr eq u e ntly l e av e s scars b ehi nd

,
C al .

ci um s ul hi d e i s co ntai ned i n B oet t e r s d e i latory

’
p g p It .

i s u s ua lly pr epar ed by h eati ng a t a l o w r ed h eat i n a

sec u rely clos ed cr ucibl e a n i nti mate m ixt ure of 1 0 0
-

parts of finely powd ered q u ickli m e w ith 90 p a rts of

-

precipitated s ulph u r Of the calci um s ul ph id e th us o b

.

t a ined m ix 1 l b with 8 ozs of starch a nd 7 drach m s of

,
. .

l emo n oil A pply t he p a st e to t he place u po n wh ich

'

t he h a irs a r e to be d estroy ed allow ing i t to r em ai n 2 0

,

to 30 s eco nds The actio n of ba r ium s ulp hi d e wh ich

.
,

is fr eq uently u sed as a d epilatory is m uch l ess ene rg etic ,

th a n th at of ca lci um s u lphid e It is for i nstance a .

, ,

co nstit uent of Bartholo w s d epilatory wh ich co nsists of

’
,

bari um s ulphid e 1 part ca u stic li me 1 part a nd s tarch

, ,

2 parts m ad e i nto a p a ste w ith alcohol

,
.
3 24 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

C HA P T ER XII I .

C OS M ET C S I .

U th is h ead i ng w ill be co nsid e red toil et V i neg a rs

N D ER
,

w a sh e s p erfu m ed powd ers p ast es ski n po m a d es as w e ll

, , , ,

a s pai nts .

T he fabrica tio n of co s m etics is a n i mporta nt bra nch

Of p e rfu m e ry T he m a teri a ls u s ed for t he p urpos e
.

sho u ld be s el ect ed and of good q uali ty e v en for ch ea p

articl es wh ich a re of co urse also repre s ented in t he fol
, , ,

lowi ng r eceipts .

S K I N C OS M E T I C S — T0 il"l vineg a r s —P erfu m ed vi ne

. .

ga rs w hen ad d ed to w a sh w a t er h a ve a re fresh i ng effect

, ,
.

a nd a r e also u s ed a s fu m ig a ti ng ag e nts by m ixi ng t h e m

with w at er in a dish a nd pl aci ng t he l a tt er in t he roo m .

V i n i d B u ll — A lcohol of b s t q u a lity 1 0 q u a rt s
a
g r e e
y e
,

ti nct u res o f orris root tol u b als a m be nzoi n a nd stor a x

, , ,

each 1 l b ol iba nu m t i nct u re l b v a nill a ti nct ure a nd

.
,
.
,

b est l a v end er oi l 5 % ozs b e rga m ot oil a nd l em o n oil .

,

ea ch 4 % ozs a c e ti c a ci d 2 l bs
. .
,

Vi na ig r e d e toi lette 62 la r os a — A lcohol of b est q ual ity

5 q u a rts b enzoi n ti nct u r e 1 l b a ng elica ti nct ur e 8 ozs
,
.
,
.
,

extra i t r os e N o 1 1 l h F r e nch rose ge ra n i u m Oil 3 %

.
,
.
,

ozs a c eti c acid 14 ozs

.
,
.

Vi na ig r e ole toi lette 62 la vi olate — A lcohol of b est

q ual ity 5 q ua rts orris root ti nct ure 2 q u a rts ti nctu r es
,
-
,

of b enzoi n a nd stora x each 7 ozs be rga m ot oil 2 % ozs .

,
.
,

l iq uid orri s root oil 1 1 d ra ch ms acetic acid 1 lb

- l ><

,
.

S e e foo t -
n o te , p . 25 7 .
3 26 M A N U F A CTU R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

co nsti tutes a n e xcell ent m ed i u m for r eta i ni ng t he l iq u id

i n t he bottl e It a cts si m ply as a n i ncorrodibl e spo ng e
.
.

To ilet vineg a r —Esse nce of b e rga mot 2 0 drops es

.
,

s ence of a mb ergris 4 d ra ch m s ess ence of va nilla a nd ,

Oil of n e rol i each 3 0 d rops stro ng ac etic a c id 1 6 0 drops, ,

a lcohol 6 ozs .

Wa s hes — W a sh es a re m ostly m ilky fl u i d s or emu l

s o ns for med by t he fi ne di v isio n of r esi n s or b a ls a m s
,

i n w a t e r b e nzoi n a nd myrr h b e i ng esp eci ally em plo y ed

,

for t he p u rpose Of the for m e r it w a s a t o ne ti me

.
,

b eli e v ed that fu m iga ti o ns with it e v ery e v eni ng a ft er

w a shi ng w o uld pre v ent wri nkl e s in t he fa ce T he emu l .

sio ns a re us ed by addi ng o ne to two t abl espoo n fuls to

t he w a s h w a t e r
-
P e rfu med glyc e ri n is a lso m u ch e m
.

p l oy ed as a n a dditio n to w a sh water -
.

m —
V g a
i r i n l il k L
( a it v ir
g i na l ) A lcoh ol of fi n e st .

q ual ity 2 % q uarts b e rga m ot oil a nd T urk ish rose Oil

,

each 5 % d ra ch m s b e nzoi n ti nct u r e 1 q uart

,
.

P ul v e riz e i n a p orc elai n mortar abo u t 1 4 dra ch m s of

s uga r ad d t he b erg a mot oi l a nd ros e oi l a nd m ix i nti
,

m a tely N o w bri ng t he p ast e l ik e s u bst a nc e i n to a

.
-

gl a ss bottl e ri ns e o u t t he m orta r with t he alcoh ol a nd

,

add t he l a tt er to t he co nt e nts of t he bottl e C lose t he .

latter wi th a w ell fit ting stopp er a nd place it i n a w a r m

-

roo m for 8 d ays sh a k i ng freq uen tly Th en add t he

,
.

b enzoi n ti nctu re m ix i nti ma tely a nd fi nally filter

,

thro ugh p a pe r Thi s fl uid i s u s ed by addi ng s uffici ent

.

of i t to t he w a sh water to for m a n emu lsio n w h ich

-
,

e x erts a r e fresh i ng a nd i n vigor a ti ng effect u po n th e ski n

a nd Olfa ctory ne rv es .

R os e milk (L a t d e r os )
i e — R os e wat e r 5 lbs wh it e b ees
. .
 C OS M E T I CS . 3 27

w ax an d co m mi n uted C astil e
soap each 3 % ozs potash .
,

4 % ozs Extr a i t r ose N O 1 8 ozs

.
,
. .

Heat t he rose— w a ter in a n ena m ell ed or porcelai n v ess el ,

a nd dissolv e i n i t the C a stil e soap Th en add t he wax .

,

a nd,
wh en this is dissolv ed t he potash stirri ng con , ,

s t a nt l y wh il e t he s ubsta nces a re dissolvi ng

,
Wh en .

sol utio n is co m pl ete stra i n t he m ilk lik e fl u id thro u gh a

,
-

cloth (best ga uz e or m usli n) i nto a noth er v ess el cov er i t ,

a nd a llow it to cool Wh en cold add t he Extra i t r os e

.
,

shak e thoro ughly a nd fill i t i nto bottl es for sa l e .

If t he L a it d e r ose is to he ros e color add v ery care ,

fully a s mall q u a ntity of coralli n ti ncture a nd S h ak e

vigoro u sly .

B esid es wax fatty or oily s ubstanc es S ho uld not b e

,

e m ploy ed in t he pr eparatio n of th es e e m ulsio ns as ,

oth erwise th ey wo uld soo n beco me ra ncid .

A lmond milk (L a i t d a ma nd es a mer es ) — D istill ed water

’
.

5 lbs bitt er a l mo nds 1 l b wh ite b ees w ax 1 % ozs co m

.
,
.
,
.
,

m i nuted Ca stil e soap 2 % ozs potash 3 % ozs bitte r .

, .
,

al mo nd oil 8 % drach ms dissolved in extract fro m P omm

,
.

Tu ber eus e 8 ozs .

S cald a nd p eel t he bitter a l m o nds Th en co n v ert .

th em to a pas t e by po u ndi ng i n a cl ean mortar bri ng ,

t he past e i nto t he distill e d wat e r a nd extract i n a w ater ,

ba th for abou t ho u r Th en strai n the liq u id thro ug h

.

a cloth s uccess i vely dissol ve the oth er s ubstances in t he

,

strai ned fl uid i n the water bat h and wh en all i s dis -

,

solv ed stra i n aga i n a nd proceed as g i ve n for ros e m ilk

,
.

The bitte r a l m o nd oi l i s dissolv ed i n the ex tract fro m

-

P omm Tu ber eus e a nd add ed last of all to the liq u id

.

m ass .
328 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

L ily mi lk —
( L a it d e l s )
y R os e wat er , ora ng e fl ow e r
.
-

w a ter ,
and j a s m i ne w a t er each 1 q u art white b eesw a x
,

3 % ozs C astil e soap 2 % ozs pota sh a nd orris root ti nc

.
,
.
,
-

t u re each 3 % ozs c u mari n ti nct ur e 1 % ozs dissolv ed in

.
,
.
,

m u sk root ti n ct u r e 3 % ozs b erg a mot Oil 1 % ozs

-
P ro .
, .

ceed a s gi v e n for L a i t d e R os e
'

I n r eg a rd to t he Castil e soap i t may h ere be r em ark ed ,

that it S ho uld b e neutral and co ntai n no excess of oil as ,

oth erwis e al l t he prep a ra tio ns abov e gi v en m ight i n a ,

short ti m e b eco me ra ncid

,
.

P erfumed g lycer in w i th r os e od or — C hemical ly p u re .

glyc eri n of 2 8 B 1 0 lbs Extr a i t r os e N O 1 8 ozs

°
. .
,
.
,
.

By addi ng t he Extr a i t r os e t he glyce ri n b eco mes t u r ,

bid bu t clari fi es by sh a k i ng thoro ughly a nd allowi ng

,

t he m i xt u r e to sta nd q u i etly for s ev eral d ays F ilt eri ng .

t he fl u id i s not a dvisabl e a nd b esid es entir ely u s el ess

,
.

P erfumed g lycer in w ith fr u it od o r — C h em ic ally p u r e .

glyc eri n of 2 8 B 1 0 lbs a ny ki nd of fru i t eth er 1 %

°
. .
,

ozs S hak e th oro ughly The glyceri n i f ch em i cally

. .
,

p u re is not r e nd ered t urbid by t he fr u i t eth er whi ch

, , ,

of co u rs e mu st also be of t he b est q ual ity

,
.

P E R FU M E D M A L S A N
E D P S s
A T E — The p erfume d .

mea l s a re fr eq u ently u s ed for wash ing i n place of soap ,

or th ey are appli ed after w a shi ng or shav ing to the ski n , ,

t o pre v en t t he latt er fro m b eco m ing ro ugh or ch a pp ed .

T he pastes a re a ppl i ed in ord e r to m ak e t he sk i n so ft er .

F a r i n d e noi s ette (nu t mea l ) — B est q ua l ity wh eat flo ur .

3 lbs al m o nd m eal 1 % lbs orris root powd er 1 l b b er

.
,
.
,
-
.
,

g a mot Oil 2 ozs .

M ix the i ngredi ents i nti m ately a nd pass t he m ixt ur e

thro ugh a fine si ev e .
3 30 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

a g l ass a nd th oro ughly S h a k en T he s a me directio ns .

h old good for al l s ucceedi ng r ece ipts for P oud r e d e r iz .

O f talc o nly t he whit est pi ec es S ho u ld be u s ed t he ,

B ria nco n t a lc or F r ench chalk b ei ng v ery s uit a bl e for

th e p u rpos e it yi eldi ng a v e ry wh it e a nd d elica t e powd er
, .

It i s prepa red as follows : Ov er 1 part of ta lc po ur 2

parts of vi nega r l et i t sta nd with freq uent S h a k i ng for
, , ,

1 4 d ays th en filter a nd thoro ughly w ash t he tal e w ith

,

di still ed wate r .

If ros e colored p ou d r e d e r iz r os e i s d em a nd ed add to

-
,

t he proportio ns of w e ight abov e gi v en abo ut 1 oz of .

madd er trit urate it thoro ughly with t he powd er p er

, ,

fu me trit urate agai n a nd fi nally pass the whol e thro ugh

, ,

a fi ne si e v e .

T hes e rice po w d ers a re b est k ept in w ell clos ed t in -

ca ni ste rs .

P o ud r e d e r iz hél iotr op e — R ice flo ur 4 lbs pr epared

. .
,

t alc 1 9 ozs b erga mot oi l 1 0 drach m s F rench ros e

.
, ,

gera n i u m Oil 5 dra ch ms clov e oil 2 % dra ch m s va n illa , ,

ti nct ure 1 0 drach ms Extr a i t heli otr op e N o 1 1 % ozs

'

. .
, ,

P roceed as direct ed for P ou d r e d e r i z a la r os e .

P ou d r e d r d
e iz la v io lette — R i c e flo u r 4 lbs pr epar ed
. .
,

tal c 1 9 ozs b erga mot oi l 1 0 dra ch m s liq u id orris root

.
, ,
~

oi l 2 % drach m s Extr a it Vi olette N o 1 1 oz c umari n

,
.
,
.
,

ti nct ure 5 drach ms .

P roceed a s dir ect e d for P ou d r e r iz a la r os e .

P ou d r e d i n — R ic e flo u r 4 l bs pr epar ed
e r z o r a g e .
,

talc 1 9 ozs P ort ug al oi l 1 oz p etit grain oil 5 drach m s

.
,
.
,
-
,

e xtra ct fro m P omma d e Or a ng e 1 oz .

P rocee d as di recte d for P ou d r e r iz a la r os e .

P oud r e d e r iz mug u et — R i c e flo u r 4 lbs prepar ed .

,

talc 1 9 ozs yla ng yla ng oil wi nter green Oil a ngelica

.
,
-
,
-
,
 C OS M ET I CS . 33 1

oil a nd bi t ter al m o nd oi l ea ch 2 drops b e rga mot oi l 5

,
-
,

d rops storax ti nct ure 1 4 drach ms Extr a i t l V

,
I ug u et N O ,
.

1 3 % ozs
,
.

P roc eed a s directed for P ou d r e d e r iz a la r os e .

P ou d r e d e r i z i xo r a — R ice fl o ur 4 lbs pre pared talc .

,

1 9 o z b erga m ot oi l 2 % dra ch m s C eylo n ci nna m o n oi l 1

.
, ,

drach m ti nctu res of orris root a nd va n illa ea ch 1 % ozs

,
.
,

e xtract fro m P omm Ca ss ie or Extr a i t i xor a 1 % ozs

. .

P roceed as di rect ed for P ou d r e d e r iz a la r ose .

P ou d e d i b u u t — R i c e flo u r 4 l bs pr e p a r ed
r e r z o
q e .
,

t alc 1 9 ozs b e rga mot oil 8 dra ch m s A frica n ros e Oil a nd

.
, ,

C eylo n ci nna m o n oil each 2 % drach ms Extr a i t ess ,

bou qu et N o 1 3 % ozs .
,
.

P roc eed a s d ir ect ed for P oud r e d e r iz a la r os e .

C O L D C R E A M S A N D L I P —S A L V Es The p urpos e of .
-

cold crea ms a nd lip —sal ves i s to i mpart l ustre to the S k i n

a nd prot ect i t fro m cracki ng i n ch a ng es of t em p e rat u r e .

Cold cr ea m — —
F a t al mo nd oil 3 l bs sp e r mac eti 5 % ozs
. . .
,

w h it e beeswax 7 ozs b e st ros e wat er 1 q u art b erga mot

.
, ,

oi l 1 4 d rach m s T u rk ish ros e oi l 5 % drach ms,

.

M elt i n a porc el ai n di sh i n t he wat er bath first t he -

,

sp er ma ce t i a nd wax t h en ad d t he al m ond Oil and wh en

, ,

t he whol e for m s a liq ui d allo w t he pr e vi o usly war med

ros e w a t e r to flow i n sl owly stirri ng co nsta ntly N ow ,
.

t a k e t he dish fro m t he wat er bath a nd with a larg e -

,

spoo n of silv e r or hor n stir t he mass unti l i t b egi ns to

th ick e n Th en sti r i n th e p erfume and fill the fi nish ed
.

co l d crea m in box es .

Va s eline cold cr ea m — Wh it e vasel i ne 2 lbs fa t al mo nd .

-

oi l 1 l h wh ite b eeswax 1 % ozs b ergam ot oil 1 4 dra ch ms

.
,
.
, ,

F r ench ros e ge ra ni um oil a nd T u rki sh rose oil each 2 %

-

drach ms .
332 M A N U FA C T U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

P roceed (witho ut t he ros e w a te r) a s di rected for cold

crea m .

G yce i n c a m
l r r e — —
F a t a l mo nd oil 3 l bs , wh ite b ee s
. .

w a x a nd sp e r mac eti ea ch 7 ozs , ch e m ic a lly p u r e glyc eri n .

of 2 8 B 1 l h b e rga m ot Oil 1 oz clo v e oil T u rkish

°
. .
,
.
, ,

ros e oil a nd F rench gera ni um oi l ea ch 2 % drach m s

, .

P roc eed as abov e .

C éme d e c c
r o n om b r e — F a t a l mo nd oi l 8 ozs wh it e
.
-
.
,

b eeswax 1 0 dra ch m s S p e rm aceti 1 2 drach ms freshly , ,

e xpress ed c u c u m b er j u ic e 7 ozs vol a til e c uc u mb er oi l .

,

2 % dra ch ms b erga m ot Oi l 1 % d ra ch m s
,
.

G r a t e t he c u c u m bers o n a grat er plac e t he gra ted ,

m ass u po n a cl ea n whi te cloth a nd g ently expr ess t he ,

j uice so th a t no m uc us p ass es thro ugh the cloth The .

c ucu m b er j ui ce is S ligh t ly w ar m ed t he r est of t he pro ,

cess b ei ng t he s am e as wi t h col d crea m

Gy l — G u m tra g a c a nth 5 % dr a ch ms sw ell ed
'

l c er i n g e e e .
-
,

n ros e wat e r 1 0 % ozs ch em ically p u r e glyc eri n of 2 8

°
u
p i .
,

B 7 ozs h o ney 3 % ozs Extr a it r os e N O 1 1 % ozs

. .
,
.
, .
,
.

C o nv ert t he g u m tr a ga ca nt h to a co a rs e pow d e r bri ng ,

t he powd er i nto a capacio us glass flask po u r t he ros e ,

water u po n it a nd afte r corki ng t he flask l et it sta nd

, , ,

for a bo u t 3 d ays S h a ki ng i t freq uently a nd vigoro u sl y

,
.

Th e n strai n t he s w ell ed gum tr agaca nth w hich no w rep ,

r es ents a thi ck fl u id t hro ugh a wh it e clot h or fine—m esh ed

,

si ev e i nto a dish a nd a ft er addi ng t he glyce ri n ho ney

, , ,

a nd Ex tr a i t r os e m ix t he wh ol e i nti m at e ly a nd fill t he
, ,

t ub es or glass es with t he fi nish ed preparatio n It is a n .

approv ed r e medy for ch a pp ed sk in .

Glycer in j elly — G lyc e ri n 1 l h fat a l mo nd oil 3 lbs .

,
-
.
,

soap 2 % ozs ora ng e p eel Oil 2 % drach ms thy me oil 5 %

.
,
-
,

drach ms .
33 4 M A N U F A CT U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

colog ne a nd oil of lav end e r with the alcohol add t he ,

sol uti o n to t he mucilag e a nd m ix t he whol e w ell .

wa sh for the ha nd s Ta nni n 8 grai ns glyc eri n 5

—
,

drach m s ros e water 4 ozs M ix a nd filter The h ands

,
. .

sho uld be w a sh ed wi th so a p in soft water or water to ,

wh ich a l ittl e bora x has been ad d ed thoro ugh ly dri ed ,

a nd th en w ell r u bb ed w ith t he loti o n .

N a i l p ow d er — The followi ng pr eparatio n s erv es for

-
.

t he p u rpos e of i m parti ng s mooth ness a nd l u stre to t he

fi ng er nai ls F o r u se apply so me of t he powd e r to a
.

pi ece of soft glove l eath er a nd r ub t he nails u nti l th ey

-

S h ow l ustr e .

S ta nn ic o x id e (p utty powd er) 2 lbs , car m i ne 5 % .

drach m s Oils of berga m ot a nd la vend e r each 2 % drach m s

,
.

R u b t he sta nnic oxid e as fine a s possi bl e a nd m ix it i n

t he m ortar with t he oth er i ngr edi ents .

L ip sa v
-
l e N o 1 — P omm R ose N o 2 4 or 3 0 8 ozs
. . . .
, ,
.

b est carm i ne naca rat 2 % dra ch ms .

C o n v ert th e ca rm i ne to a fine powd er a nd thoro u ghly

tritu rate it with t he P omm R os e i n a porc elai n m ortar
.

u nti l n o m ore sp ecks of car m i ne a r e p erc eptibl e By .

th is trit uratio n t he s a lv e b eco m es v ery so ft and d elicat e ,

so that it can be co nv eni ently press ed i nto t he s mall

bo xes A pl easi ng l u stre i s th en i mparted to t he s ur
.

face of th e sal ve by care fully m ovi ng each b ox to a nd

fro ov er the fl a me of a n alcohol la mp It may h ere be .

r em ark ed that car m i ne na ca rat is t he best colori ng m at

t er for lip s a lv e it b e i ng fa r m or e r esistant tha n for i n
-
, ,

sta nc e alka nn i n wh i ch in co ntact with t he sk i n readily

, , , ,

acq u ires a bl u ish coloratio n .

If l ip salv e of a m ore solid co nsistency is d esi red t he

-
,

obj ect may be attai ned by the add itio n o f a few d ra ch ms

 C OS M E T I CS . 33 5

of wh ite b eeswax H ow ever i n th is c a se t he po mad e

.
, ,

m u st be melted in a water bath or t he po m ad e a nd w ax -

,

melted tog eth er T hen add the car m i ne stir u ntil cold
.
, ,

fill i nto box es a nd mak e t he s urfac e l ustro us ov er a n al

coh ol fla me .

i
Lp a s lv
-
e N o 2 — P omm R os e N o 6 or 1 2 1 0 % ozs .
,
. . . .
,

Hu ile a ntiqu e r ose N O 6 or 1 2 1 4 dra ch ms whit e b ees .

, ,

wax 5 % dra ch ms car m i ne nacara t 2 % drach m s

,
.

M elt t he w ax i n a porcelai n or ena mell ed v essel th en ,

a dd first th e oil co m bi ne it with t he wax th en add t he

, , , ,

po m ad e a nd fi nally t he car mi ne Wh en all th is is i nti .

m ately m i x ed sti r i t u ntil cold

,
The furth er proc ess is .

t he sa me as gi v en for N o 1 . .

P A I N TS — The obj ect of p a i nts is to h id e bl em i sh es of

t he S ki n a nd to i m part to i t a d i ffer ent color — as a r ul e
a yo u thfu l o ne— fro m that b estow ed by nat ure th o ugh ,

u nd er c e rta i n co nditi o ns esp eci a lly i n t he cas e of a ctors , ,

th ey are also em ploy ed for the p u rpos e Of cha ngi ng the

e xpr essio n of t he fa c e A disti ncti o n is m ad e b etw een
.

p ulv er ul ent solid liq uid and fat pai nts

, ,
.

P U L V E R U L E N T P A I N T S (P OWD E R S ) — The si m pl est .

powd er i s wh eat starch It for m s a d ul l wh ite powd er .

with a bl uish l ustre a nd is p erfe ctly harm l ess P o w, .

d ered talc prepared i n t he m a nner pr e vio u sly d escri b ed

,

( p. i s also m u ch u s ed for powd er By m ixi ng 1 00 .

parts of prepared tal c wh il e still m o i st with 1 2 parts , ,

of S p er maceti pre vio usly r ubb ed to a m oist powd er

,

w ith so me r ectifi ed a lcohol a nd dryi ng at a mod era te ,

“
h eat a prod u ct k now n i n co mmerce as B lane fa rd
,
”
,
”
or B l a ne fra ncais i s obtai ned ,
.

T al e by i ts elf not fur nis hi ng a b ea uti ful whit e it i s ,

mi x ed , accord ing to ci rcu msta nces w i th s ubni tr a te of ,

 M A N U F A CTU R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

bis mu th (fla ke whi te ,

) -
mag nes i a ,
or zinc w hi te cha lk -
.

White lea d th o ug h freq ue ntly us ed ca nnot be recom

, ,

m end ed it b ei ng i nj uri o us to h ealth

,
S ub n itrate of .

bis m u th fu rn ish es t he b est whi te ; it has how e v er t he , ,

dis adva ntag e of t u r ni ng brow n i n air co nta i ni ng s ul

p h u r ett ed hydrog e n " i n c wh it e do es no t hav e th is d e
.
-

fee t but l acks t he l ustre a nd p ure w h ite color

,
.

C usto m ary m i xt u res for powd ers are as follows

I C a rbo nate of m ag nesia a nd wh eat sta rch ea ch 5
.

p a r t s pr e pa r ed t al c 1 5 zi nc wh ite 1 0
, ,
-
.

II C a rbo nate of m ag nesia and ch alk ea ch 5 p arts

.
,

prep a red tal e 1 5 s u b n i trate of bis m uth 2 0

, .

T he powd ers a re pr epared i n th ree colors : white ,

ros e color a nd yellowish To h e ight en the white color

-
.

t he powd e r is m ix ed with abo u t of one per c ent of .

ultr a m ari ne
-
F o r ros e color so me car mi ne i s u s ed a nd
.
,

for colori ng y ellowish so m e car m i ne and y ellow ochre .

A powd er for colori ng m or e i ntens ely r ed is prepar ed

a s follows : M ix 1 00 parts of pr ep a red tal e wit h or
m or e parts of ca r m i ne accordi ng to t he d esi r ed sh a d e
,

of color .T he carm i ne i s tritu rated by its elf a nd i n

s mall portio ns add ed to t he ta l e It sh o u ld n ot be .

d issol v ed as giv en i n m a ny directio ns i n a m m o nia i t

'

, , ,

losi ng th er eby its fi ery r ed To obtai n an especially .

d elicate powd er t he fi nish ed a rticl e sho u ld be car eful ly

,

bolted th ro ugh s ilk .

S OL I D P A I N T S — S olid p a i nt s m ay b e pr epar ed fro m

t he a bov e m entio ned powd e rs by stirri ng th em to a past e
-

with t h i n g um sol utio n .

—
Or d i na ry r ed p a i nt ( g)
r o u e P r e par ed t al e 2 lbs .car .

m i ne 1 o z g u m tragaca nth m u ci l ag e pre p a r ed fro m dis

.
,
-

till ed water 3 % ozs a nd g u m tragaca nth 2 % drach ms b est

.
-
,
338 M A N U FA C T U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

p a r ed 3 or 4 days b efore fro m 2 % drach m s of p u l v er

i zed g um tr agaca nth a nd 3 % ozs of w a t er work t he
-
.
,

m ass th oro ugh ly th ro ugh a nd ad d t he 5 % drach m s of

,

b est ol i v e oil T he Oil b ei ng a lso i ncorporat ed with

.

t he m ass m ix in t he 1 oz of Extr a i t r os e or alcohol

,
.
,

a nd a g a i n work t he m a ss t horo ughly th ro u gh wh en t he ,

pai nt is ready to be bro ugh t u po n porcel a i n plates .

The proc ed u re i s no w as follows : By m ea ns of a

spoo n bri ng a q ua ntity of the p ai nt abo ut the si z e of ,

three h az el nuts u po n t he centre of a porcelai n plate ,

S pr ead i t o u t u ni for m ly to t he edg e of the pl a te by

k nocki ng t he lat te r agai ns t t he tabl e a nd i n t he s a me ,

m a nner co v e r 6 or 8 plat es Th ese a re t he t est plates

.
-
.

Tie a pi ec e of p a p er o v er t he dish co nt a i ni ng t he r est

of t he pai nt a nd s et i t a sid e P l a ce the p l a tes coat ed
.

with pai nt i n a dry place to dry but d o not expos e th em ,

to s unligh t no r sho u ld soaps be k ept in t he roo m as i n

, ,

both cas es t he pa int w o u ld beco m e bl ue A ft er 1 2 to .

1 8 h o u rs the pai nt u po n t he plates w ill be dry a nd no w ,

co mes t he m ost d i ffic ult p a rt of the m a ni p ulatio n With .

a s mal l h or n k nife or t he sharp edge of a pl ayi ng card

-

scrap e off v ery c a refully a nd u ni for ml y a s ma ll q ua n

tity fro m the s u rfa ce of th e pai nt proceedi ng fro m t he ,

edg e s towards t he c en tr e of t he pl a te Th en to see .

,

wh ether the pai nt adh e res fir mly to the pl ate k nock t he ,

edg e of t h e latt e r q u it e vigoro u sly a gai n st t he tabl e If .

i t adh er es fir m ly cov er t he e ntir e plat e with a pi ec e of

,

w ater ed S il k ca tch t he ends of the latt er b eneath t he

,

plat e with the l eft h a nd a nd with t he pal m of t he right

, , ,

r u n q u it e hard ov e r t h eS ilk By th is means t he m oir é

.

of t he sil k i s i m pri nted u po n t he pai nt gi vi ng it a n ic e ,

a ppeara n ce P roceed in t he sa me ma nne r wit h t he s ix

.
 C OS M ET CS I . 39

or eight t est p l ate s a nd if t he p a i nt u po n th em b ears

-
,

t he m a nip ulatio n witho u t droppi ng off work U p t he r e st ,

of t he p a i nt i n the dish If how ev e r t he pai nt do es .

, ,

not a dh er e to the plat es i t is proof of i t co n ta ini ng n ot

,

e no u gh um tr a g a c a nth I n th i s cas e add so me of th e

g
-
.

m u cil a g e to t he pai nt in t he dish work it thoro ughly ,

thro ugh a nd proceed in t he ma nner d escri b ed P ack

,
.

i ng l a b ell ing et c b e i ng s u bj ect to fash io n nee d n o t

, , .
, ,

h er e be d escri b ed b ut as t he char m of nov elty con

,

trib ut es much to t he sal e of a n articl e t he m a nu fact ur er ,

sho uld mak e it his b usi ness to i nv ent new a ttracti v e d e

s ig ns wi t ho ut too m uch im ita tm g oth ers
,
.

R ed s ti ck p a int (S ti ck r oug e)
- — P rep a r ed t al e 1 l h ,
. .

carm i ne 5 % drach ms ol iv e oil 2 % drach ms alcoh ol 8 %, ,

drach m s S piri t of sal a m mo niac a good t easpoo nful

, ,

distill ed water and g um tragaca nth m ucil age as mu ch as -

r eq u ired .

T he m od e of pr eparati o n i s the sa me as for solid

p a i nts exc ept that i n ord er to giv e the ro ug e mor e con
,

sist ency l ess water and gum tragaca nth m ucilag e are to
,
-

be us ed .

F o r m o uldi ng the ro u ge i nto sticks ro u nd t in m o ulds ,

abo u t 2 % i nch es lo ng a nd of the thick ness of a fi nger

a re u s ed To facilitat e t he r em oval of the ro ug e
.

sticks t he i nsid e of t he m o u lds i s r u bb ed with a r ag

,

m o i stened with oliv e oil and w rapp ed aro und a th i n

stick of wood A ft er r em ovi ng the sticks fro m t he
.

m o u ld th ey are allow ed to dry s up erficially ahd nex t

, ,

wrapp ed first in t i ssu e pap er and th en in ti nfoil one ,

e nd how ev er b ei ng l eft free fro m pap er and ti n foil

, ,
.

Th ey are fi nally lab ell ed and pack ed in paste board bo xes -

.
3 40 M A N U FA C T U R E OF P ER FU M ER Y .

Whi te s tick p a int i s pr epa red sa m e ma nner a s i n t he

stick ro ug e with t he excepti o n t hat t he ca rm i ne is o m itt ed
, .

R oug e en feui lles P rep a red ta l e 1 % ozs carm i ne 2 %

.
-
.
,

dra ch m s ol iv e oil 1 0 to 1 5 drops S pirits of sal a mmo

, ,

n iac abo u t 50 drops p u re alcoh ol 5 % ozs distill ed wate r

,
.
,

or ros e wate r 8 ozs g um trag a ca nth m ucilage 1 % ozs

_
.
,
-
.

T he carm i ne i s first r u bb ed fine th en t he oli v e oi l , ,

S pi rits of s a l a m m o n iac a nd u m tragaca nth mu cilag e

g
-
,

a re s u cc essi v ely thoro ughly trit u rat ed wi th th e car m i ne ,

ne xt t he t a l e is add ed th e n t he w a t e r a nd fi nally t he
, ,

a lcoh ol . M ix a l l i nti m a t ely i n a m ortar with t he p estl e .

T he whol e for m s a fl uid which by m ea ns Of a fine br ush , ,

a ppl i ed to a sq ua r e pi ece of wh it e c a rd board so that a ,

circ ul a r d isk t he S i z e of a S il v er dollar l i es i n t he centre

of th e pap er T he a pplicatio n of t he ro uge to t he p a p er
.

has to b e rep eat ed th ree or fo u r ti m es allowi ng one lay er ,

to dry b efore a pplyi ng t he next Wh en t he last lay er is .

dry t he ro uge i s s m ooth ed by l ayi ng a pi ece of tiss ue

,

pap er upo n i t a nd r u nn i ng t he broad sid e of a paper

c utt er ov er t he ti ss ue pap er I n p a ck i ng a pi ece o f .
,

tissu e is l aid b etw een t he s eparat e pi eces .

L I Q U I D P A I N TS L iq u id pai nts a re ch i efly u s ed by

.

actors .

L i q ui d r o g e
u — R os e wat er 1 % q ua rts car mi ne 1 % ozs ,
.
,

Extr a i t r os e N o 1 1 l b .
,
.

Heat t he rose wat er w itho u t allowi ng it to boil in a

, ,

glaz ed earth enware v essel add t he ca r m i ne pr e vi o u sly , ,

r ubb ed fi ne to t he hot ros e wat er a nd sti r t he fl u id wit h

'

, ,

a cl ea n wood en spat ula u ntil the carm ine i s co mpl et ely

d ivid ed Th en tak e t he v essel fro m t he fire and add
.

a tabl espoo nful of S pirits of sal ammo niac T he latt er .

i mpar t s to t he ro ug e a brighter red bu t not too much ,

3 42 M A N U FA CT U R E OF P ER F U M ER Y .

ros e color ,
a nd y ellowish . A fe w recei pts for th em a re

as follows
Cr éme d L s — M e lt 3 % ozs of sp er mace ti and 7 ozs
e
y . .

of wh ite w a x i n the w a t er bath , a nd aft er ta ki ng t he

-

m ass fro m t he fire m ix it with 3 % lbs of s u bnitrate of .

bis muth pre vio usl y r ubbed fine with 1 % lbs of a l m o nd

, ,
.

oil T hen a l low to cool so mewh a t next stir until en

.
,

t ir el y cold a nd p erfume
,
.

C r eme d e r os a — S p e rm ac eti 3 % ozs white w a x 7 ozs .

,
.
,

B la ne F r a nga is 3 % lbs car m ine 8 % drach ms al mo nd oi l

.
, ,

1 % lbs .

P roc eed as dir ected for cr i me d e lys .

 I N D EX .

B ELM OS K o r m u s - s eed t i n c k A m e ri ca n soap i nd u s t r y , co ns u m p

t u r e 23 0 , 2 31
. t i o n o f c i t r o nel l a o il i n t h e ,
A b s o r p t i o n o r e nfl eu ra g e , p ro ces s 1 08
o f, 6 0 6 5-
s t o ra x 172
,

A ca c i a Oi l , 8 7 A myg d a l i n , 88
A ce t i c a m yl a ce t a t e o r a m yl a c e A my l ac e t a t e o r a c e t i c a myl a c e
t a t e , 201 t a t e , 20 1
h h
e t yl o r e t yl a c e t a t e , 2 0 1—2 04 h
v a l e r a t e o r v a l e ri an i c e t e r ,
A c i d nu mb e r , 8 1 2 1 4 - 2 16
A fri c a n a n d F
r e nc g e rha n i u m o i l s, h
A ne t o l , 1 1 1
A ng el i c a O i l , 9 2 , 9 3
A h h
l c o o l a nd s ul p u ri c a ci d t es t , ro o t t i nc t u re , 2 3 1

H ag e r s , 7 8
’ ’
A ni m a l k i ng d o m , p er fu me- s u b
h
c l o r o fo r m , a nd b e n z i n e , q u a n s t a n ce s fro m t h e , 1 7 8 — 1 88
t i t a t i ve d e t e r mi n a t i o n o f A n i s e s ee d o i l , 9 3 , 9 4
-

h
a d u l t e r a ti o ns w i t , 7 2 , 7 3 A nt i se p t i c g a rg l e , 2 7 5
o r s p i ri t o f w i ne , d e t ec t i on o f, h x
A p p a r a t u s fo r a l co o l i c e t ra c t s
i n vo l a t i l e o i l , 6 8- 7 1 fr o m fl
o w er p o ma d es , 2 23
A h
l co ol i c p e r fu m es , 2 1 9 2 55 — 9 0 V

A l l s p i ce , Oi l o f, o r p i ment o o i l , 1 3 6 fo r d e t e r mi ni ng th e p er ce n t
A l mo nd b a nd o l i n e , 3 05 a g e o f vo l a t i l e o i l i n a y e g e
m ea l , 3 2 9 t a b l e s u b s t a n ce , 4 0 , 4 1
k
mi l , 327 fo r d i s t i l l i ng l e m o n o i l , 1 1 8
oil ( b i t t e r ) , 8 7— 93 1 20
a d u l t e r a t i o n s o f, 9 0 92
-
for t h e a b s o r p t i o n p r o ces s , 6 2
fi
a rt i c i a l , 8 9 , 9 0 64
t i nc t u r e 2 3 4 fo r t h e d i s t il l a t i o n o f vo l a t i l e
h
.

p a s t e o n e y, 3 2 9 o i l 4 1 —46
A h
l p i ne e rb
, ,

x
fo r t h e e t ra ct i o n o f vol a t il e
A mb e rg ri s , 3 1 , 1 8 6—1 8 8 Oi l s , 4 8 57 -

a d u l t e r a t i o n s o f, 1 88 fo r t h e p r ep a r a t i o n o f t i nc
t i n c t u r e , 22 9 t u re s , 2 2 6 , 2 2 7
A mb rei n o r a m b ri n , 18 7 A p p l e e s s e nc e , 2 1 6
A m er i c a a n d E ng l a nd , u s e a n d h
e t er , 2 1 6
h
p re p a r a t i o n o f ni t ro u s e t e r i n , p o m a d e , 28 9
2 12 - 2 14 A p r i co t es s e nc e , 2 1 6 , 2 1 7
A me r i c a n cu rl ed m i nt o i l , 1 3 2 h
e t er , 2 1 6
h q
E ng l i s , o r C a na d i a n c a s t o r , A u a m el l i s , 2 5 5
h
A ra b i a n p ys i c i a ns , r e c ei p t s fo r
k k
m u s -r a t , m u s o f t h e , 1 8 1 , co s m e t i c s i n t h e w r i t i ng s o f, 2 6
1 82 h
A r ni c a t o o t -t i nc t u r e , 2 76
o i l o f t u r p en t i n e , 1 4 9 A r o m a t i c vi n eg a r , 3 2 5
p ep p er mi nt o i l , 1 3 2 , 1 3 3 h
Eng l i s , 32 5 , 32 6
3 44 I N D EX .

A r ti fi c ial
m u s k , 1 82 , 1 83 B en z oic et h er or et h yl b en z o at e ,

p e r fu m e m a t e r i a l s , 1 8 9 2 1 8
- -

h
A t en s , l u x u ri o u s u s e o f o i nt m e nt s Ben z oi n, 1 5 7 -
159
i n , 22 a m yg d a l o i d , 1 5 7

A z
t o m i er s , 2 6 3 d e t e r m i na t i o n o fci nn a mi c a c i d
A z
t o m i i ng , p i ne Od o r fo r , 2 6 5 i n , 1 58 , 1 5 9
A t t a r o f r o s es o r r o s e o il , 1 36 flo w e rs 1 5 9
,

1 44 i n t ea rs , 1 57
A u s t r i a n o il o f t u r p e n ti n e , 1 4 8 l ump , 1 57
A v i ce nn a , r ec e i p t s fo r co s met i c s i n p o m a d e , 29 0
t h e w r i t i ng s o f 2 6 t i nc t u r e , 22 9
h
.

t r e a t ment o f fa t Oi l s w i t , 3 0 0 ,
30 1
A L M o il , 9 6
B
v a ri et i es o f, 1 5 8
B a l m o i l t i nc t u re , 2 3 4
-
B erg a m o t o il , 9 7 , 9 8
z
B a l s a m , B ra i l i a n , 1 66 t i nc t u r e , 2 3 4
h
C a rt a g e na , 1 6 6 B et u l a l en t a , Oi l fr o m , 1 5 2
fu mi g a t i ng , 2 6 5 , 2 6 6 B eye r fr eres , a p p a ra t u s fo r a l c o
P e r u , 1 5 9— 166 h
o l ic x
e t r a ct s

p i n e o il ,
1 4 9 ,
1 50 fro m o w er p Ofl
T ol u , 1 6 6— 1 68 m a d es , 2 2 3 2 2 5 -

n e w v a r i e t y o f, 1 6 7 , 1 6 8 fo r t h e p rep a r a
h I
w i t e nd i a n , 1 7 2 t i o n Of t i nc
P eru , 1 7 2 t u re s , 2 2 6 , 2 2 7
P e r u vi a n , 1 6 0 , 1 6 1 h
B i rc o i l , 1 5 2
B al s a m s , 1 5 5 , 1 5 6 Bi s m u t hh ai r d y e , 3 2 0
a n d r es i n s , 1 5 5 - 1 7 7 ni t r a t e o f, 3 3 5 , 33 6
B al s a m u m P er u vi a nu m , 1 5 9 — 1 66 h
B i s ul p i d e O f c a r b o n , 4 8
B a nd ol i ne , a l mo nd , 3 05 Bl ac kh a i r d ye s , 3 2 1

r o s e , 3 05 h
t o o t p o wd e r , 2 8 0
-

B a n d o l i nes , 3 0 4 , 3 05 w a x p o m a d e , 299
Ba r e n t h i n s a pp l i ca t i o n o f H u b l s
’
’
Bl a n c fa r d o r b l a nc fra nc 118 , 3 3 5
h
i o d i ne m e t o d t o v o l a t i l e o i l s , Bl o n d e l , D r m e moi r o n t h e s t a r
80 a ni s e t re e , b y , 9 5
’
B a r t h o l ow s d e p i l a t o ry , 3 2 3 Bl o nd e w a x p o ma d e , 2 9 9
B a rt l e t t , W W , m e n t h o l p u ng ent
’
. . B o et t g e r s d e p il a t o ry , 3 23
a s p r e p a re d b y , 2 6 0 Bo r o g l y c e r i n c r e a m , 3 3 3
P r e s t o n s a l t a s p re p a re d b y , h
Bo u c a r d a t a n d L a fo nt , c o nv e r
2 60 s i o n o f o i l o f t u rp e nt i ne i nt o

B a s i l Oi l , 9 6 l e m o n Oi l b y , 1 8 9 , 1 90
t i nc t u r e , 2 3 4 q
B o u u et va s el i ne p o m a d e , 29 6
B a yb e r ry o i l , o r Oi l o f b a y l e a ves , q
B o u u et s , 2 1 9 , 240- 2 4 5
96 , 97 z
B ra il ian b al s a m , 1 6 6
B a y l ea ve s , oi l o f, o r b a yb e rry o i l , B ri l l i a n t i ne , 3 05 —3 08
9 6 , 97 fo r m u l a s fo r , 3 07 , 3 08
B ay r u m , 3 12 - 3 14 h
B r o w n a i r d ye , 32 1
fo rm ul ae fo r , 3 1 3 , 3 1 4 w a x p o ma d e , 2 9 9 , 3 00
B e a rd , R og e r s s p o ma d e fo r p ro B a r i a , r o s e Oi l i nd u s t ry i n , 13 7 ,
’

d u ci ng a , 29 4 T E
0 S

B e a r s g r ea s e , 2 8 5
’
k h
B u r d o c - roo t a i r o i l , 3 02
p o m ad e , 2 89 B u t yr i c a ci d , p re p a r a t i o n o f, 2 0 5
h
B e a u t y p at c o r m o u c e , 2 8
-
h 2 07
B e e f m a rr o w p o ma d e , 2 9 4
- h
e t e r , fo r m a t i o n o f, 2 07 , 2 0 8
z
B e n i ne , d e t e ct i o n o f, i n vo l a ti l e or e t yl hb u t y ra t e , 2 05
o il , 7 1 , 72 2 10
3 46 I N D EX .

Den t i fri ce , s i ng u l a r , u s ed by the Eg yp t i a n s , u s e o f p e r fu me s u b -

Rm a n l a d ies , 2 6
o s t a nc e s b y t h e , fo r e mb a l m i ng
Dent i fri c es a nd m o u t hw
- a t e rs , c o l t h e d ea d , 1 8
o r i ng s u b s t a n c es fo r , 2 72 El a p t en e , 33
mo u t h
w a t e rs , e t c
-
.
,
2 7 2 —283 E m p e ro r p o ma d e , 2 9 2
Dep il a t o ri e s , 3 2 2 , 3 23 E n fi e u r a g e o r a b s o r p t i o n , p r o c es s
u s e o f i n a n ci en t me , 2 5 , 2 6
R o o f, 60— 65
Di o s co ri d e s s d i r ec t i o ns fo r m a k i ng
’
Eng l a nd a n d A m eri ca , u s e a nd
a ni m a l fa t s s u i t p re p a ra ti o n o f ni t r o u s e t er h
fo r t h e r ec e p
ab l e i n , 2 1 2 —2 1 4
t i o n o f p er fu m es , u s e o f p e r fu me ry i n , 3 0
24 h
Eng l i s a r o m a t i c vi neg a r , 3 2 5 , 326
fo r p r e p a I i ng ro s e C a n a d i a n , o r A m er i c a n cas t o r ,
Oi nt m e nt , 2 3 , 24
M ed i c a m a t er i a , 23 p e p p e r mi n t o i l , 1 3 2 , 1 3 3
”

x
D i s t il l a t i o n o f e p r e s s ed o i l , 39 k
t o n a b ea n , 1 9 2
o f l e m o n o il , 1 1 8 E s p ri t d e m e nt e , 2 76 h
o f r o s e o i l , 1 3 7 , 1 38 q h
E s s b o u u e t s a c e t p o w d er , 2 5 9
-

o f v o l a t i l e o il s , 3 9 — 48 s o l i d p e r fu m e, 2 6 0

a nc i e n t m o d e o f, 2 4 z
Es s enc e a l ecu el l e , o r a n es t e , 1 1 7
’

D i s t i l l i ng a p p a ra t u s fo r l e m on o i l , a p pl e , 2 1 6
1 1 8- 1 2 0 a p ri co t , 2 1 6 , 2 17
h
Do u b l e a i r d yes , 3 2 1 , 3 22 h
c erry , 2 1 7
D ra g en d o rff s t e s t , 6 8 , 6 9
’
c u rr a n t , 2 1 7
D ry p e r fu m es , 2 5 6— 26 1 j
d e a s mi n , 1 14
h k
D u t c t o n a b e an , 1 9 1 , 1 9 2 d e l a va n d e M o nt b l a nc , 1 1 5
D w a r f p i n e o il , 14 9 d e mi rb a n e , 1 99
g ra p e ,
2 1 7
l e m on , 2 1 7
A S I N D I A N g era ni u m o i l , 11 2
T m el o n , 2 1 7
E Ea u A t eni e nne , 3 08 h o f P o r t u g a l , 1 25
Ea u d A fr i q u e , 3 2 2
’
o f t h e o d o r o f Li n d en b l os
d e B o t o t ( i m p rove d ) , 2 7 5 s o ms , 2 3 8
d e C o l o g ne , 24 9—2 54 o r a ng e , 2 1 7
d u ra b i l i t y o f v o l a t i l e o i l s h
p eac , 2 17
fo r , 2 5 0 , 2 5 1 p ea r , 2 17
h
a i r t o ni c , 3 09 p i n e a p pl e , 2 1 7
-

p re p a ra t i o n o f, 249 , 2 5 0 p l u m , 2 17 .

rec e i p t s fo r , 2 5 2— 2 54 r a s p b e r ry , 2 1 8

s o l i d p e r fu m e , 2 6 0 s t r a w b e r ry , 2 18
d e l av a nd e , 2 5 5 V
Es s e nces a nd i neg a r s , fu mig a t i ng ,
d oub l e , 255 2 6 4- 2 6 6
d e Li s b o nne , 2 5 5 p a s t il l es , p o w d e rs , e t c , fo r
.

q
d e u i n i n e , 3 09 , 3 1 0 fu mi g a t i ng , 2 6 2 — 27 1
( i m it a t i o n ) , 3 10 Es s en t i a l o r vo l a t il e oi l s , o c cu r
d e vi e d e l a va n d e d o u b l e a m r e nc e o f, i n p l a nt s , 3 1

b ré e , 2 5 5 h
E s t e r o r e t e r n u mb er , 82
d en t i fr ic e Bo t o t , 2 7 4 h
E t er , a p p l e , 2 1 6
Ori e nt a l e , 2 7 4 , 2 7 5 a p ri c o t , 2 1 6
h
l u s t I a l ( a i r r es t o ra t i ve ) , 3 1 0 h
c e r ry , 2 1 6
Ec u el l e p r o ce s s fo r o b t a i ni ng l e m on o r e s t e r nu m b er , 8 2
Oi 1, 1 17 , 1 1 8 p ea r , 2 1 6
V
Eg g o il , i r t u es o f, 3 1 4 p i n e -a
p p l e , 2 16
Eg yp t , a nci ent , p a i nt s u s ed i n , 1 8 , s t ra w b er ry 2 1 6
h
Et e r s , fru i t , 2 00—
,

19 2 18
 I N DE X . 34 t

h
E t yl a c et a t e , o r a c e t i c e t h yl 2 01
,
x
E t r a ct Op o p a n a x ,
24 2
2 04 23 9
o r ang e ,
z z
b en o at e , o r b e n o i c e e r , th 204,
h
p a t c o u l i , 2 42
2 05 éé
r s d a , 2 4 0 , 24 6

b u t y r a t e , or b u t yri c e er , th 2 05 r o s e , 246

210 v d c e nt i fol i e , 239

t h yl h
. .

fo r m a t e , o r fo r mi c e e t er , s p ri ng fl o w e r , 24 1 , 2 48
-

2 10, 21 1 t u b e re u s e , 24 0
ni t r i t e , o r ni t r o u s e th
er , 211 V
i ol et t e , 2 39 , 2 4 6
2 14 h
w i t e r os e , 2 39
E u ca l yp t e ne , 1 1 1 y l a n g yl a ng , 2 40 , 246 , 2 4 7
-

E u c a l yp t o l , 1 1 1 x
E t r a-i t s a u x fl eu r s , 2 1 9 , 2 3 7 - 240
’
E uc a l yp t u s oil , 1 1 0 , 111 d o d eu r s , 2 19
t i nc t u r e , 23 5 t ri p l e c o nce nt i é s , 2 44 , 2 45
E u g e n o l , 1 0 3 , 1 09
E p r es s i o n o f vo l a t il e o i l s , 3 6 —
x 39
x fl
E t r a ct , co nc e nt r a t ed ow e r , 24 5 A C E , p a i nt i ng t h e , p r ac t i s ed b y
h
p a t c o u l i , 2 33 t h e Heb r ew w o men , 1 9
s p i nac , 2 3 9h F a mi l y p o m a d e , 2 9 0 , 2 9 1
E t ra c t i o n o f v o l a til e o i l s , 48—
x 58 v a s el i n e p o m a d e 2 9 6
o r m a c er a t i o n o f fl
o w e rs , 2 8 6 , F a ri n d a m an d e s a m e re s , 32 9
’

2 87 d e no i s ett e , 3 28
x h
E t r a c t s , a l c o ol i c , fr o m fl
ow e r x
F a t mi t u r e s fo r a i r p o ma d es , h
p o m a d es , a p p a ra t u s fo r ,
2 23— 2 25 p ai nt s , 3 41 , 3 4 2
a n d t i nc t u r e s , 2 2 5 — 2 37 F a t s , a ni m a l , p r e p a ra t i o n o f, fo r
x
E t r a i t a c a c i a , 2 37 t h e re c e p t i o n o f p er fu m es ,
q
b o u u et E ug eni e , 241 24
P r i nce A l b e r t , 2 4 3 fo r p o m a d e s a nd a i r o il s , 2 8 4 h
V i ct o ri a , 2 4 2 , 2 4 8 p r o t ec t i o n o f, a g a i ns t ra n c i d
ca s si e , 2 37 i t y , 28 5
h
c yp r e , 2 4 3 , 2 44 , 24 7 fi
p u ri ca t i o n Of, 28 5 , 286
V
d e i ol e t t e d e P a r m e , 23 9 , 240 F e d e r e r s , C F , t e s t fo r p epp e r
’
. .

e d el w ei s s , 2 4 0 m i nt o i l , 1 3 5
q
e s s - b o u u e t , 2 40 , 2 4 1 , 247 F e nn e l o i l , 1 1 1 , 1 1 2
x
e cel s i o r , 2 4 1 F i l t e r , i l l u s t ra t e d a n d d es cr i b e d ,
fl e u r s d e M a i , 2 38 38 , 3 9
F r a n i p a ni , 2 4 1
g 24 9 F x
i l t ra t i o n o f e p r es s ed o i l s , 3 7 — 39
é
h l i o t r o p e , 2 37
,
F k h
l a e- w i t e , 3 36
x
i or a , 23 9 , 2 48 , 2 4 9 F fl
l o re nt i ne a s k s , 4 6 , 4 7
j h
ac i n t e , 2 3 7 , 2 3 8 Fl o r i d a w a t e r , 3 08 , 3 0 9
j
a s min , 2 38 F l o w e r b ril l i a n t i ne , 3 06 , 3 07
j k
oc ey c l u b , 2 41 , 2 4 2 x
e t r a c t , c o n c e nt r a t e d , 2 4 5
j q
o n u i ll e , 238 fu mi g a t i ng es s en ce ,h el i ot rop e ,
k q
i s s - me- u i c , 2 4 3 k 264
l i l y o f t h e va l l ey , 2 38 h a i r o i l , 3 01
m ag nol i a 2 38 p o m a d es , 2 86 , 2 8 7
m a ré cb a l 2 44 e t ra ct i o n o f, 2 2 1 —
x 2 25
fl
M a y o w er s , 2 3 8 F l ow er s fo r t h e p r o d u ct i on o f vol a
m il l efl eu r s , 2 4 2 t i l e o il s , l o c a l i t i es b e s t s u i t ed
m og a d o re , 2 4 3 for t h e c u l t i va t i o n o f, 3 2 , 3 3
m o u s s e ll i ne , 2 44 m a cer a t i o n o r e t r a c t i on o f, x
m u g u e t , 2 38 , 24 8
m u s , 24 3k F mi c et yl e t
or h h er , o r e t hyl for
n e w - m o w n h a y , 2 43 , 2 4 7 m at e , 2 1 0 , 2 1 1
 IN D EX .

F ran c e , c u l t i va t i o n of t h e b i tt e r Germa n t u rp e nti n e , 1 4 8

o il o f
o ra ng e i n , 12 6 p ep p e r mi nt o i l , 1 32 , 13 3
e xt r a va g a nt us e o f rou ge i n, G er m a ny , m a n u fa ct u r e o f r o s e o il
2 8 , 29 i n , fr o m i nd i g e n o u s r o s e s , 1 36
g o l d e n a g e fo r t o il et a r t i cl e s G l yc e r i n c re a m , 3 3 2
i n , 2 7— 29 fo r d e nt i fri ce s , 2 7 3 , 2 74
’

i n t ro d u ct i o n o f t h e a r t s o f t h e g e l e e 332

t o i l et i nt o , 2 7 h ,

a i r t o ni c , 3 1 0

o l d p r o ce s s o f m a c e r a t i o n i n , je l l y , 3 3 2 , 3 33
59 h
p er fu m e d w i t fr u i t Od o r , 3 2 8
F h
ra n g i p a ni s ac e t p o w d e r , 2 5 8 w it h
ro s e o d o r , 3 2 8
F k
ra n i nc e n s e , i n a nc i e n t t i m e s , 1 9 G r a p e e s s en ce , 2 1 7
21 k
G r ee s , p ra ct ice o f a n o i nt i ng t h e
o r ol i b a n u m , 1 76 , 1 7 7 b od y b y t h e , 2 1
F re nc h a n d A fri c a n g e r a ni u m o il s , Gr ee n c a mo m i l e o i l , 99
G u a i acu m r e a c t i o n , Ha g er s , 7 8 —
’
80
Oi l o f t u r p en t i ne , 1 4 8 G u mm i m yr rh a , 1 7 2 17 6 -

h
p a t c o ul i oi l , 1 3 1 rcs i na m y rr a , 1 7 2— h 17 6
p er fu m e rs , a n ci e nt , p ri vi l eg e s G u m re s i ns , 1 5 5 , 1 5 6
-

o f, 2 9 , 3 0 G uy d e C h a nl i o s r ec ei p t s fo r co s
fl
,

p o m a d e s ( ow e r p o m a d e s ) , m et i c s i n t h e w o r s o f, 2 6 k
fi n e , 2 8 6 , 287
F h
r u i t e t e r s , 2 0 0— 2 18
F h h h h
H A GE R S ’
u c s i n e , d e t ec ti o n o f al c o o l b y , a l co o l a nd s u l p u ric
69 t es t , 78
a ci d

F j
u m ig a t i ng a g e n t s , d ry , o b e c t i o n s Ha g e r s g u a i ac u m r e a c t i o n , 7 8 —
’
80
t o , 263 , 264 t a nni n t es t , 6 9 7 1 -

b a l s a m, 265 , 26 6 Hai r , co p p e r s al t s fo r d yei ng t h e ,

e s s e nces a n d V
i n eg a r s , 2 6 4- 2 6 6
p a s t i l l e s , p o w d e rs , e t c , . d ye , b i s m u t , 3 2 0h
2 6 2— 9 71 b l ac , 32 1 k
l a c q u er , 2 7 0 , 2 7 1 b r ow n , 3 2 1
m o d e o f, 2 6 2 , 2 6 3 co p p e r , 322
j
O b e c t o f, 2 6 2 p assi um
o t p e r m a n g a na t e,

p ap e r, 2 68 32 0
p as t i l l e s ,
2 6 8 -
27 0 q
r e u i r e m ent s o f a g o o d ,
o r d i n a ry b l a c , 2 6 9 k 3 14
r ed , 2 69 t a nni n , 3 2 1 , 322
p o w d e r , or d i n a ry ,
2 6 6 ,
2 67 T k
u r i s , 3 16 h
vi o l et , 2 6 7 w a l nu t , 32 0
o w d e r s 2 6 6 —2 6 8 d yes , 3 1 4- 3 2 2
p ,

j
p re ud i c e a g ai ns t , 26 2 d o u b l e , 3 2 1 , 3 22
v i neg a r , 2 6 6 s i l ve r , 3 2 1

w a t er , 2 6 6 s i ng l e , 3 1 9 , 3 2 0
F u nn el , s e p a r a t o ry , 4 7 u s e o f, i n a nci en t R o m e ,

g reen w a l nu t s el l s fo r d yei ng h
ER A N I OL , 1 1 2 t h e , 3 18
G e ra ni u m Oi l , E a s t n d i a n , 1 1 2 I h
e n n a fo r d ye i ng t h e , 3 17 , 3 1 8

Ge ra ni u m o i 1, p a 1m a ros a o i l , u r T k i r o n s a l t s fo r d y ei ng t h e , 3 1 6
i s h g e r a n i u m o i l , 1 12 l e a d s a l t s fo r d y ei ng t h e , 3 1 5
t i nc t u r e , 2 3 5 n i t ra t e o f s i l ve r fo r d ye i ng t h e ,
Oi l s , F
re nc h a n d A fr i c a n , 1 1 2 ,
1 13'
Oi l , a l p i ne h e rb 3 01
,

Germ a n c u rl ed mi nt o il , 1 32 ~ b u rd o c k r o o t , 3 02
3 50 IN DE X .

K re mel ’
s s a p o ni fi ca t i o n t es t , 81 , A CA SS A R h
a i r o il , 3 02
82 p o m a d e , 2 92
K r i noch r o m , 322 M a ce o i l , 1 2 4
K ru mm h ol z oil , 1 49 x
M a c e r a t i o n o r e t r ac t i o n o f fl o w
K yp ro s , 1 9 e r s , 28 6 , 2 8 7
o r i n fu s i o n , p r oc e s s o f, 58- 6 0
M a g ne s i a , 336
A C QU ER , fu m i g a t i ng , 27 0 , 2 7 1
L
M a n d a r i n oi l , 1 25 , 1 2 6
L a i t , d a m a nd es a m ere s , 327
’ ’
M a r i n el l o s w o r onk C o s met ics
”
L a i t d e l ys , 328 fo r L a d i e s , 27
d e r o s e , 32 6 , 327 j
M a r o r a m o il s , 1 2 2 , 1 23
V i rg i na l , 3 2 6 M a u me né s t es t , 8 2 , 8 3
’

L a n ol i n p o ma d e , 2 9 2 , 2 93 M ea l , a l m o nd , 3 2 9
L a t s c h e n o el , 1 49 n u t , 3 28
L a v a nd e M o nt b l a nc , e s s ence d e M ea l s a nd p a s t es , p er fu m e d , 328
11 5 331
L a ven d er o d o r s ol i d p er fu m e , 26 0 M e l a n o g ene , 3 22
oi l ,1 15 , 1 1 6 M el o n e s s e n c e , 2 1 7
a d u l t e r a t i o ns o f, 1 1 6 h
M ent ol , 1 33
t i nc t u re , 2 35 p u ng e nt , 2 6 0
Lea d s a l t s fo r d yei ng t h e ai r , h M es s i na , yi el d o f l e m on o i l i n ,
3 15 1 20
h
w i t e , 33 6 h
M et yl s al i cyl a t e , 1 5 1
h
L e a t e r , p e r fu m e d , 3 0 fi
a r t i ci a l p ro d u ct i o n o f,
h
L eb o n a , 1 9 — 21
M i e rzi ns k i s fo rm u l ae fo r b a y r u m ,
’
L ed e r i n , 2 86
L e m o n e s s enc e , 2 17 3 13 , 3 1 4
g r a s s -
o i l t i n ct u r e , 23 5 h
M ig n o ne t t e a i r o i l , 302
Oi l , 1 1 6 - 1 2 1 oil , 1 2 3
c o nve rs i o n o f o i l o f t u r p om a d e , 2 93
p ent i ne i nt o , 1 8 9 , 1 9 0 v a s el i n e p o m a d e , 296
t i nc t u r e , 2 3 5
“
k
M i l , a l mo nd , 327
L i c a r i o i l , l i na l o e o i l , 1 2 2 l i l y , 328
t i nc t u r e , 2 3 5 ro s e , 3 2 6 , 3 27

Li l a c o il , 1 2 1 V
i rg i n a l , 3 2 6
L i l y mi l , 3 2 8 k M i l l e fl eu r s fu mi g a t i ng p a s t il l es ,
o f t h e va l l ey s a c et p o w d er , h 27 0
25 8 M i nt , c u rl e d , o il o f, 1 3 2
va s el i ne p o m a d e , 2 9 6 M i rb a ne , Oi l o f, 1 99
L i m es , o il o f, 1 2 1 , 1 2 2 h h
M i t c a n a nd Hi t c i n l a ve nd e r o il .

L i na l o e o il , l i c a r i Oi l , 1 2 2 11 5
M o nfa l co ne s , D , d i s t il l i ng a p p a
’
L i p - s a l ve , 3 3 4 , 3 3 5 .

Li p - s a l ves a nd c ol d c rea ms , 3 3 1 r a t u s fo r l e m o n o i l , 1 18 - 1 2 0

h
M o s c u s e x ve s i c i s , 1 8 0
Li qu i d a mb a r , 1 7 2 h
M o s es , t h e o l y o i l p r es c rib e d b y ,
34 0- 3 42
p a i nt s , 21
r o u g e , 34 0 , 34 1 h
M o u c e o r b ea u t y p a t c , 2 8 h
st or a , 1 6 8— x
17 1 M ou t h h
a nd t o o t - w a t e rs , 2 7 4 2 7 7
-

’
L oco c k s l o t-i o n fo r th e ai r , 3 1 1 h w a t e rs a nd d ent i fr i c es , c ol o r
L ot i on , d and r u ff, 3 12 i ng s u b s t a nc es fo r , 2 7 2
’
L o c o ck s , fo r t h e a i r , 3 1 1 h d en t i fri c es , et c , 2 7 2—28 3
h
.

s a mp oo , 3 1 1 M us , 3 1, k
h
L u b a , 1 9- 2 1 a d ul t e r at i o n s o f, 183 , 1 8 4
L u na r ca u s t i c fo r d yei ng t h e a i r h fi
a r t i ci a l , 1 8 2 , 1 8 3
3 15 fu mi g a t i ng p a s t il l es , 2 6 9 , 2 7 0
 IN D EX . 35 1

M us k -
ra t , A m e ri ca n , m u s k of th e, Od o r a nd t a s t e , t es t i ng t h e , o f vo l a
t i l e o i l s , 66 , 6 7
r oot or s u mb u l -r o o t t i nc t u r e , Od o rs , co m p o u nd , 2 4 0- 24 5
23 1 Oi l , c a s t e r d et e r m i nat i o n o f, i n
h
,

s ac p o w d er , 2 59
et vo l a t i l e o i l , 6 7 , 6 8
s ac , h o w t o o p e n a , 1 80 h
fa t , a d u l t er a t i o n w i t , Of vol a
s a cs , i l l u s t r a t e d a nd d es c r i b e d , t i l e oi l , 6 7 , 6 8
1 78 , 1 79 t h h o l y , p r e s c r i b e d b y M o s es ,
s e ed o r a b el m o s k
t i nc t u r e , 2 30 , gl
23 1 vo l a ti l e , a p p a ra t u s fo r d et e r
s ub s t i t u t es for , 1 81 , 1 82 m i ni ng t h e p e r
t i nct u r e , 2 2 8 c e n t a g e o f, i n a
M y r i s t i ci n , 124 veg e t a b l e s ub

M y ro n , 2 1 s t a nc e , 4 0 , 4 1
M y r r h,
1 72 -
17 6 fo r th e d i s t i l l a t i o n
a d u l t er a t i o ns o f, 1 7 5 , 1 7 6 o f, 4 1- 4 6
o i l , 1 2 3 , 1 24 h ’
P l a nc o n s p r oc e d u r e fo r
t i n ct u r e , 2 3 5 t h e reco g ni t i o n o f a , 83
t i n ct u r e , 2 3 0 86
h
t o o t t i nct u r e , 2 7 6
-
s ep a r a t i o n Of t h e , a nd
M h
yr r a el e c t a , 1 7 3 w at er , 4 6 , 47
i n s o rt i s , 1 73 t es t i ng t h e Od o r o f, 6 6
v ul g a ri s , 1 7 3 t h e t a s t e o f, 6 7
M yrrh i n , 1 7 4 Oil s , fa t , t r e a t m en t o f, w i t b e n h
M h
y rr o l , 1 7 4 zo i n , 3 0 0 , 3 0 1
M y r t o l , 1 2 3 , 1 24 x h
o yg e n a t e d , b e a vi o r o f, t o
w a rd s ni t ro p r u s s i d e o f co p
p ,e r 7 6 — 78
A I L P OWDER , 3 34
-
p e r fu m i n g o f 6 1 62
h
N e r o l i a i r o i l , 3 02 vo l a t il e , 33 - 65
, ,

N e r o l i o il , a d u 1t e ra ti o ns o f 1 2 7 1 28
, ,
a n ci e nt m o d e o f d i s t i l l i ng ,
o r o ra ng e- fl o w e r o il , 1 2 6 24
a p p a r a t u s fo r t h e e t r a cx
t i n c t u r e , 23 5 t i o n o f, 48— 57
p e t a l e , 1 27 h
c a r a c t e ri s t i c s o f, 33 , 34

p o m ad e , 2 9 3 co nc ent r a t e d , 3 5
v a s el i n e p o m a d e , 2 96 d e t ec t i on o f a d u l t e ra t i o ns
N e w m o w n h a y fu mi g a t i ng
-
p ow o f, w i t h a n Oi l O f l o w e r

d e r , 2 6 7 , 2 68 u a l i t y , 7 4—
q 83
h
s ac et p o w d e r , 2 5 9 d i s t i l l a t i o n o f 39 — 48
N h
i t ra t e o f b i s m ut , 3 3 5 , 3 3 6 h
,

d i vi s i o n o f, w it r e fe r e nce
of i ver fo r d yei ng t h e h t o t h e g u a i a c u m r ea c
qé
air,
3 t i on , 7 9 , 8 0
N i t r o b enzol , 1 98— 2 00 x
e p r es s i o n o f, 3 6 - 3 9
a d u l t e ra t i o ns o f, 1 99 e t r ac t i on o f, 4 8 —
x 58
N i t r o p r u s s i d e o f c o p p e r t es t , 7 5 —78 x
e t r a s t ro ng , 3 5
N h h
i t r o u s e t e r , o r et yl ni t ri t e , 21 1 fo r C o l og n e w a t e r , d u ra
2 14 b i l i t y o f, 2 50 , 2 5 1
N u t m ea l , 328 l o ca l i t i es b es t s u i t e d fo r
N u t m eg Oi l s , 1 2 4 , 12 5 t h e cu l t i va t i o n o f fl o w
er s fo r t h e p r o d u c t i o n
o f, 3 2 , 3 3
D ON TI N E 27 5 m o d es o f Ob t a i ni ng , 36 - 6 5
or h ,
t o o t -p a s t e , 2 7 7 , 278 o r e s s en t i a l , o cc u rr e nce o f,

p a s t e , 27 8 i n p l a nt s , 3 1
3 52 IN D EX .

Oil s , p a t en t e d , 3 5
vo l a t i l e , Ol e u m p eti t g r a i n , 1 29
p ri nc i p a l d i vi s i o ns o f, 34 p i m e nt a , 1 3 6
s o l u b i l i t y o f, 3 3 p i ni , 1 4 9
s t o ra g e o f, 6 5 p u mi l i o ni s , 1 4 9
t es t i ng o f, 6 6 — 86 r e s e d ae , 1 23
t h e , u s ed i n p er fu me ry , r o s e m a r i ni , 1 45
8 7 —1 5 4 t e m p l i nu m , 1 49
k
Oi nt m en t m a er s , a n ci ent , c o nd i u o n ae , 1 53 , 1 5 4
t i o n o f, 2 4 , 2 5 Ol i b a n u m i n a n c i e nt ti m e s , 1 9 — 21
r o s e , a c c o r d i ng t o D i o s c o r id e s , k
o r fr a n i n c e n s e , 1 7 6 , 1 7 7
t i nc t u r e , 23 0
Oi nt m en t s , d i r e c t i o n s fo r p r e p a r q
Op i a t l i u i d e p o u r l es d e nt s , 2 8 0 ,
k
i ng , i n a nc i e n t w o r s , 2 3 , 2 4 28 1
fo re i g n, ed i c t a g a i n s t , i n R o m e , Op op a n a , 1 76 x
22 oi l , 1 25
fo r t h e d i ffe rent p a rt s o f t h e t i n c t u r e , 23 5
h
b o d y u s e d b y t h e A t e ni a n s , t i nc t u re , 2 3 0
22 Ora ng e , b i t t er , l o c a l i t i es fo r t h e
Ol eu m a b i e t es , 1 4 9 c u l t i va t i o n o f t h e , 1 2 6
c a n a d en s i s , 1 4 9 , 1 5 0 e s s en ce , 21 7
a myg d a l ae a m a r ae , 8 7 9 3 -
fl o w e r o il , o r n e r ol i o il , 1 2 6
a ni s i , 9 3 , 9 4 12 9
a nt h em i d i s , 9 9 , 1 00 w a t e r , 128
h
a nt o s , 1 4 4 , 1 45 fu mig a t i ng p o w d er , 26 7
c aje p u t i , 9 8 , 9 9 p eel Oi l , 1 2 5
ca r u i h
s ac e t p o w d er , 2 5 9
ca ry o p h yl l i , 1 0 8 1 1 0
-
fl
Or i en t al o w e r fu mi g a t i ng e s s enc e ,
c a s s i as , 1 0 3 , 1 04 26 5
c ed ri , 1 0 1 p o ma d e , 29 3
c i nna m o ni c e yl o ni c i , 1 02 1 03 Or ri s - r o o t o i l , 1 2 9 , 1 3 0
c i t r i , 1 06 , 1 0 7 q
l i u i d , 257
e u c a l yp t i , 1 10 , 1 1 1 t i n c t u r e , 23 5
a u s t r a l e , 1 10 t i nc t u re , 2 3 1
fl o r u m a u r a nt ii , 1 2 6— 1 29 Orri s s t e a r op t e ne , 1 2 9
foeni c u l i , 1 1 1 , 1 1 2
u l t h i ae 1 5 1 — 1 53
ga e r ,

g e r a nii , 1 1 2 , 1 1 3 I T
A N , fi ne r e d , 3 3 7
i r i d i s , 1 29 , 1 3 0 OI d i n a ry r e d , 3 3 6 , 33 7
i va r a nch u s a , 1 5 0 , 1 5 1 r ed s t i c , 3 3 9 k
ju ni p er i , 1 1 4 h
W i t e , 33 7
l a u r o c e ra s i , 1 0 1 , 1 02 q
l i u i d , 3 41
l a va n d u l ae , 1 1 5 , 1 1 6 s t i c , 3 40 k
i
l g n i r h o d i i 1 4 5 P a i n t s 33 5 — 34 2
, ,

s a nd a l i , 1 4 5 fa t , 3 4 1 , 3 4 2
s as s a fr a s , 1 4 5—1 4 7 l i u i d , 34 0—
q 34 2
l i m et t ae , 1 2 1 , 1 2 2 r
p p e a ra t i o n o f,
33 7 -
33 9
l i m o ni s , 1 1 6 —1 21 p u l ver u l e n t , 3 3 5 , 33 6
m a ci d i s , 1 24 s o l id , 3 3 6 3 4 0 -

m e nt h ae c r i s p ae , 1 3 2 u s e o f, b y t h e R o m a n l a d i es , 2 5
i e i t a e 1 3 2 —1 3 5 P a l e r m o , yi e l d o f l e m o n o i l i n , 1 2 0
p p r ,

p u l eg i i , 1 3 5 , 1 3 6 T k
P a l m a r os a oi l , g e r a ni u m o i l , u r
my r t h ae , 1 23 , 1 3 4 i s h g e ra n i u m Oi l , 1 1 2
na p h ae , 1 2 6 — 1 29 P a p er , fu mi g a t i ng , 2 6 8
n e r o l i , 12 6 — 1 29 P a ra fli ne , s o l i d p e r fu me s w i t , h
nu c i s t ae aet h er e u m , 1 2 4 2 59 , 26 0
3 54 I N DE X .

P l u t a rc h on x
t h e e t r a v a g ant u s e P o m a d e , V i c to r i a , 2 94
o f o i nt men t s i n R o m e , 2 2 23 v a s e l i n e , 2 9 7 , 29 8
,
P a r a ffi n i c e p o m a d e , 29 3 v i ol e t , 2 9 5
P o l ey o i l , 1 3 5 , 1 3 6 Vi rg i n i a va s el i ne , 2 9 7
P o ma d e , a p p l e , 2 89 w a l n u t , 2 95
P o m a d e s , 28 5—3 0 0
’
b ea r s g r ea s e , 2 8 9
b ee f m a rr o w , 2 94
-
a cc o r d i ng to th e G er ma n
z
b e n o i n , 29 0 h
m e t o d , 28 8—2 9 5
k
b l a c w a x , 2 99 a nd ha i r o il s , fa t s fo r 28 4
,
b l o nd e w a x , 2 9 9 c o l o r i ng s u b s t a nc e s fo r 2 8 6
,

q
b o u u e t v a s e l i n e , 2 96 q
d e s ig n a t i o n o f t h e u a l i ti e s Of,
b r o w n w a x , 2 9 9 , 3 00 2 1 9 , 220
c a s t o r o il , 2 9 3 fo u nd a ti o ns fo r , 2 8 8 , 2 89
h
c ea p , 2 9 3 r e s i n, 2 9 8
w a x , 3 90 k
s t i c , 2 9 8— 3 00
D ens d o r f, 2 9 0 fo u n d a t i o ns fo r , 2 98
e m p e r o r , 2 02 v a s el i n e , 2 95— 29 8
x
e t r a fi ne va s el i n e , 298 w a x , 298
fa mi l y , 2 9 0 , 2 9 1 P o m m a d e a l a c a ci a , 2 8 7
’

va s e l i n e , 2 9 6 a l a fl e u r d o ra ng e , 28 7
’

fi ne , 2 9 1 , 2 94 a l a r o s e , 28 7
.

v a s e l i n e ( yel l ow 2 97 a l h é l i o t ro p e , 2 8 7
’

fo r p r o mo t i ng t h e g r o w t h o f P ort ug a l h a i r o i l , 3 03
h
t h e ai r , 29 1 oi l , 1 25
h el i o t ro p e , 2 9 1 , 2 9 2 t i nc t u re , 2 3 6
h e rb , 2 9 2
p o m a d e , 2 92
i ce , 2 9 0 v a s e l i n e p o m a d e , 2 96
j a s m i n e , 2 92 P o t a s s i u m p e r m a ng a na t e fo r d ye
l a n o l i n , 2 9 2 , 2 93 i ng t h e h a i r , 3 1 6
l il y o f t h e v a l l ey vas el i ne , 2 9 6 h a i r d ye , 32 0
m a ca ss a r , 2 92 p i p era t e , 1 94
m i g no n e t t e , 2 93 P o u d r e d A l g er i ne , 28 1 , 28 2
’

v a s e l i ne , 2 96 d e co r a il , 28 0
ne r o l i , 2 93 d e ri z a l a r o s e , 3 2 9 , 3 30
v a s el i n e , 2 9 6 V
d e r i z a l a i o l e t t e , 33 0
o ri e n t a l , 2 9 3 q
d e ri z b o u u e t , 3 3 1
fi
p a ra f n i c e , 29 3 d e riz hé l i o t ro p e , 33 0
P o rt u g al , 2 9 2 x
d e ri z i o r a , 3 3 1
v a s e l i ne , 2 96 d e r i z m u g u e t , 3 30 , 3 31
p r i nces s , 2 9 3 , 2 9 4 d e r i z o ra n g e , 33 0
q u i ni ne , 28 9 , 2 9 0 d ent i fri ce , 2 7 9
( i m i t a t i on ) , 2 90 P o w d e r fo r col o ri ng i nt en sel y r e d ,
r es i n , 3 00 33 6
n ew - m o w n h ay fu m i g a t i ng ,
’
R og e r s s , fo r p ro d u c i ng a
b e a rd , 294
r os e , 2 9 4 o ra ng e fu m i g a t i ng , 2 6 7
w a x , 2 99 o r d i na ry fu m i g a t i ng , 2 6 6 , 2 6 7
s al i cyl i c , 2 94 ros e fu mi g a t i ng , 2 67
k
s t i c , m a nu fa c t u r e o f, 29 8 , 299 P o w d er s , 33 5 , 33 6
s t r a w b e r ry , 29 1 a n d p as t es fo r t h e t eet , 2 7 7h
k
t o n a , 2 94 , 2 9 5
v a n i l l a 2 9 5 fu m i g a t i n g, 2 66 — 2 68
,

v a s el in e ( r e d ) , 29 7 x
m i t u r e s fo r , 3 3 6
h
( w i t e ) , 2 97 p a s t i l l es , a n d e s s en ces , et c , .

fo u n d a t i ons fo r , 2 9 6 fo r fu mig a t i ng , 2 62— 27 1

 I N D EX . 3 55
.

P res t o n s al t , 26 0 R o se o i l , a d ul t e ra t i o n o f, i n B ul g a
P r i nces s p o ma d e , 2 93 , 2 94 1 40
ri a ,
P yr og a l l i c a ci d fo r d yei ng t h e h ai r , d et er mi na t i o n o f s p er m a
3 16 c e t i i n , 1 43 , 1 4 4

h
a i r s t ai n , 3 2 0 i n s u l a t i o n a nd d e t e r mi na
t i o n o f t h e s t ear o p t e ne
i n , 139 , 1 4 0
U I N I N E p o m a d e , 28 9 , 2 9 0 ju d g i ng t h e g e nu i nene s s

( i m i t a t i o n )
h
t oo t -w a t er , 2 7 6
,
A S P B ER R Y es s ence , 2 1 8
R a s t i k o p e t ra , 3 1 6
R ec a m i er c r ea m , 3 3 3
R ed p a i n t , fi ne , 337
o r d i n a ry , 33 6 , 3 37
stic k
p a i n t , 3 39
290 o f, 1 39
q
l i u i d , 1 39
o r a tt a r o f r o se s , 1 3 6 — 1 44
p ri nci p a l l o ca l i t i es o f p r o
d u c t i o n o f, 1 3 6
t es t fo r , 1 4 3
u s ed i n B u l ga r i a , 1 4 1
t i n c t u r e , 2 36 , 2 3 7
o i nt m e nt , a cc o r d i ng t o Di o s c o
r i d es , 2 3 , 24

h
t ym e o i l , 1 4 7 p o ma d e , 2 9 4
R egg i o , m o d e o f m an u fa c t u ri ng w a x p o ma d e , 29 9
b e rg a m o t o i l i n , 1 1 8 R o s e m a ry o i l , 1 4 4 , 1 4 5
éé h
R s d a s ac et p o w d er , 2 5 8 , 2 59 R o s e s , c r ea m o f, 3 3 3
R es i n p o m a d e , 3 00 R h
os e w o o d o i l , o r r o d i u m o i l 1 4 5
,

p o m a d e s , 298 R oug e, 336 , 3 37

R es i ns a n d b a l s a ms , 1 55 — 1 77 e n fe u i ll es , 3 4 0
fi
d e ni t i o n o f, 1 5 5 x
e t ra v a g a nt u s e o f, i n F
r a nce ,
d i ffu s i o n o f, i n t h e veg e t a b l e 2 8 , 29
k
i ng d o m , 1 56 q
l i u i d , 3 40 , 3 4 1
el e m en t a ry c o ns t i t u en t s o f, m o u l d i ng o f, i nt o s t i c s , 3 3 9 k
155 k
s t i c , 3 39
h a rd , 1 5 5 R u s s i a n o r S i b e ri a n ca s t o r , 1 8 5 , 1 8 6
s o ft , 1 5 5 , 1 56 k
m u s , 1 7 9 , 1 80
hz
R a es , r ec ei p t s fo r cos me t i cs i n
h w i ti g
t e f 26 r n s o
R h d i m il
,

o u w O o r ro s e oo d o i l , 1 45 A C HET a l a r os e , 2 5 7
Rh
,

m 32 2 32 3
us a, a l a V i o l et t e , 2 5 7
m th d f
,
R ig h i i a u x m i l l efl e u r s , 2 5 8
’
n ts e o or es t i ng b er
ga mo t 98 oi l , j o c ey cl u b , 2 57
k
R o g e rs s p o m a d e fo r p ro d u c i ng a
’
p o w d e r e s s —b o u u e t 2 5 q
9
b e ar d , 2 9 4
,

F
ra ng i p a ni , 2 5 8
,

R o m a ns , a n ci e nt , co n s u m p t i o n o f h lie o t ro p e , 257
p e r fu m e -
s u b s t a nc es b y t h e , 2 4 lily of t he va l l ey , 2 5 8
R o me , i nt ro d u ct i o n o f o i n t m e n Is m u s k , 2 59
i n , 22 n e w m ow n h a y , 259
-

P l u t a rc h
o n t h e e t r av a g a n t x 2 59
o r a ng e ,
u s e o f o i nt me nt s i n , 2 2 , 23 p a t c o u h
l i ,
2 58
R os a al b a , 1 3 7 éé
r s d a , 25 8 , 259
d a m a s cena , 1 3 7 Vi c t o ri a , 2 5 8
R os e b a n d o l i n e , 3 05 y l a n g yl a ng , 2 5 7
-

fl
o w er fu mi g a t i ng e s s e nc e , 26 4 p o w d e r s ,
2 5 6 — 259
fum i g a t i ng p a s t il l es , 2 7 0 S a fr e ne , 1 4 6
p o wd er , 2 6 7 S a fr o l , 1 46 , 1 4 7
h
a i r o i l , 3 04 h
S t J o n s b re a d o r c a r ob
.
’
2 09
k
m i l , 3 2 6 , 327 S a l i cyl i c p o m a d e , 2 9 4
o i l , a d ul t e r a nt s o f, 1 4 2 S a l t s , s mel l i ng , 2 6 0 , 2 6 1
3 56 I NDE X .

S a l ve , C y p r i a n , 1 9 Stil l , o rd i n a ry , co n ve rs i o n o f, i nt o
S a nd al — w o o d o i l , 145 h
w i t s t e a m , 4 2 , 43
use
t i n ct u r e , 23 6 h
s i p on , 4 1 , 42
S a nd a r ac , 1 77 S t h n an s t es t fo r oi l o f c l oves ,
’

S a nd a r a c i n , 1 7 7 oé0
h
S a p on a c e o u s t o o t w a s , 283 -
h S t o r a , 1 6 8—1 7 2
x
S a p o ni fi ca ti on n u m b e r , 8 1 A m er i ca n , 1 7 2
t es t , K r e m e l s , 8 1 , 82
’
i n g r a i ns , 1 7 1
S a s s a fra s o i l , 1 4 5—
.

1 47 q
l i u i d , 1 6 8- 1 7 1
S a r t o ri u s yl a ng yl a ng oi l , 1 5 4
-
a d u l t e r a t i o ns o f, 1 7 0 , 17 1
h
S c i m me l C o s d i r ect i o ns fo r
’
. o rd i na r y ,
h a y ru m , 3 1 3 t i nc t u r e , 2 3 0
d i rec t i o ns fo r t h e S t ra w b er r y es s enc e , 2 18
q
u a nt i t a t i v e d e h
et e r , 21 6
t er m i na t i o n of p o ma d e , 2 9 1
c i nna m a l d e yd e ,h S t yra c i n , 1 7 0
1 04— 1 06 x
S t y ra ca l a mi t a s , 1 7 1 , 1 7 2
i mp r o ved s t i l l , 4 4 v u l g a r i s , 17 1 , 1 7 2
46 S tyr ol , 1 6 9 , 17 0
S e p a ra t o r funn e l , 4 7
-
h
S ul t a n a a i r o i l , 3 04
h q
S a m p o o l i ui d , 3 1 l , 3 1 2 S u m b u l r o o t , o r m u s - r oot t i n c k
l ot i on , 3 1 1 t u re , 23 1
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S ol i d p a i nt s , 3 3 6 34 0 -
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