Text Only Crochet Giant Wyvern PDFPattern

Text Only Crochet Giant Wyvern PDF Pattern
by Imagined Yarn
This is the Text Only version, but I recommend using the photos on the other PDF if
you need help.
This pattern is for making your very own Large Wyvern! A wyvern from this
pattern is about 11 ½ inches (29 cm) tall, and approximately 20 inches (50 cm) long
from the tip of the tail to the nose. You can make these dragons with normal worsted
weight yarn, or for my feathered wyvern I made him with light worsted weight yarn.
This pattern also includes all the extra add-ons to make Drogon from Game of
Thrones! This pattern took me absolute ages to make, so I hope you enjoy and good
luck crafting!
Pattern Notes
● This pattern is for you to make your own giant Wyvern! It includes 3 different
head & tail variations for you to mix and match for a unique dragon.
● One of the head and tail variations is for the game of thrones wyvern, Drogon!
You can make a GoT dragon with it, or just a unique frilled dragon.
● You can use safety eyes (Which you can find at your local craft store), or yarn to
embroider your eyes.
● If you want your dragon to be poseable, you will need wire. I used sturdy
notebook wire in my body and wings. I recommend using Very sturdy wire in
your legs and wings so that they can support themselves easily.
● Since this dragon is a wyvern and has no front legs, it will be a bit difficult to
keep your dragon balanced and standing. To solve this problem, I would
recommend using multiple small weights in the tail to help with balance. Make
sure to insert them while you’re making the body. Of course, weights are mostly
for if you want wire in your dragon.
* This pattern is for your personal use only. Please do not sell, share, or distribute
this pattern in any way. Feel free to sell handmade items from this pattern in a
limited number. If you are going to sell this item, please give credit to Imagined Yarn.
page 1
© Copyright 2022 Imagined Yarn. This pattern is for your personal use only. Feel free to sell handmade items from this pattern in
a limited number. Please do not distribute this pattern in any way. If you are going to sell this item, please include in the item
description “ This item was made from a design and pattern by Imagined Yarn.”
by Imagined Yarn
Skills needed for this pattern:

● I recommend being an advanced crocheter to use this pattern, so have plenty
of experience.
● Know how to crochet in rounds and rows.
● Know how to sew crochet pieces together and embroider on certain pieces (for
example- embroidered eyes).
● Know how to do a variety of different stitches (Listed in Abbreviations and
Stitches on Page. 3).
● Know how to follow a pattern and count stitches/rows.
● Know how to use wire and stuffing.
If you don’t know how to do one or more of these, there are sources you can use all
over the internet!
Materials
● 3.25 mm(D) crochet hook
● Worsted weight (Medium 4) yarn in any color(s), or light worsted weight yarn
● Eye materials: There are 2 options - 10 mm Safety eyes (Use 8 mm for light
worsted weight yarn), or Worsted weight (Medium 4) yarn in any colors for
embroidering eyes.
● Scissors and Stuffing
● (Optional) Wire (make sure it's sturdy and can hold weight). A good choice for
wire would be paper wrapped stem wire, which you can find at your local
hardware store (since it’s in separate pieces, for the wings or legs you’ll need to
tape them together).
Note- The wire I usually use is wire taken from a spiral-bound notebook. This
works well and is a good way to reuse. Wrapping two or more strands of wire
together could give a better result.
● Yarn needle and pins
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by Imagined Yarn
Abbreviations and stitches

(Not all of these terms may be used for this pattern)
● Yo- Yarn over
● Sc- Single Crochet
● Inc- Increase
● Dec- Decrease (I use the Invisible decrease technique)
● Sl St- Slip Stitch
● BLO- Back Loop Only (Stitches that should be done in BLO will be underlined.
For Example- In BLO, Sc 2 )
● FLO- Front Loop Only (Stitches that should be done in FLO will be underlined.
For Example- In FLO, Sc 2 )
● Hdc- Half Double Crochet
● Hdc Dec-(Invisible) Half Double Crochet Decrease:
○ Yo, insert hook into next 2 FLO, Yo, pull up, Yo, pull through all 3 loops.
(You may use the normal Hdc Dec if you like)
● Dc- Double Crochet
● Dc Dec-(Invisible) Double Crochet Decrease:
○ Yo, insert hook into next 2 FLO, Yo, pull up,Yo, pull through 2 loops, Yo,
pull through 2 loops. (You may use the normal Dc Dec if you like.)
● Dc Dec-(Normal) Double Crochet Decrease
○ Yo, insert hook into next stitch, Yo, pull up,Yo, pull through 2 loops, Yo,
insert hook into next stitch, Yo, pull up,Yo, pull through 2 loops, Yo, pull
through all three loops
● Htr- Half Triple Crochet:
○ Yo twice, insert your hook into the next stitch, Yo, pull up, Yo, pull
through 2 loops, Yo, pull through all remaining loops.
● Tr- Triple Crochet:
○ Yo twice, insert hook into the next stitch, Yo, pull up, Yo, pull through
2 loops, Yo, pull through 2 loops, Yo, pull through the last 2 loops.
● F/o- Fasten off
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by Imagined Yarn
Head and Body (the head and body are crocheted in one piece)
1: Sc 6 in ring [6]
2: Inc 6 times [12]
3: Sc 5, then for the first nostril, (Ch 2, in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Hdc 1). Sc 1 into
the next available stitch, Sc 1, Then repeat the parentheses to make a 2nd nostril,
Sc 1 into the next available stitch, Sc 4 [12]
4: Sc 5, skip over the nostril, Sc 2, Skip over the 2nd nostril, Sc 5 [12]
5: Sc 12 [12]
6: (Sc 5, Inc) 2 times [12]
7: Sc 14 [14]
8: (Sc 6, Inc) 2 times [16]
9: (Sc 3, Inc) 4 times [20]
10: Sc 20 [20]
11: Sc 6, Inc, Inc, Sc 7, Inc, Inc, Sc 3 [24]
12-14: Sc 24 (3 rounds of) [24]
15: (Sc 4, Dec) 4 times [20]
If you are using safety eyes, insert them between rounds 10 and 11 with an
interspace of 4 stitches. Make sure the eyes line up with the nostrils. Stuff the head
evenly and continue to stuff the body as you go.
16: Sc 8, Hdc 1, Dc 2, Dc Dec*, Dc 2, Hdc 1, Sc 4 [19]
17: Sc 1, Inc, Inc, Sc 3, Hdc 1, Dc 4, Dc Dec, Dc 4, Hdc 1, Sc 1 [20]
18: Sc 3, Inc, Sc 5, Hdc 1, Dc 1, Dc Dec, Dc Dec, Dc 2, Hdc1, Sc 2 [19]
19: Sc 4, Inc, Sc 5, Hdc 1, Dc 1, Dc Dec, Dc 2, Hdc 1, Sc 2 [19]
20: Sc 4, Inc, Inc, Sc 5, Hdc 1, Dc 1, Dc Dec, Dc 2, Hdc 1, Sc 1 [20]
21: Sc 6, Inc, Sc 6, Hdc 1, Dc 1, Dc Dec, Dc 1, Hdc 1, Sc 1 [20]
22: Sc 6, Inc, Sc 13 [21]
23: Sc 7, Inc, Sc 9, Dec, Sc 2 [21]
24: Sc 7, Inc, Inc, Sc 9, Dec, Sc 1 [22]
25: Sc 9, Inc, Sc 9, Dec, Sc 1 [22]
26: Sc 9, Inc, Inc, Sc 9, Dec [23]
27: Sc 10, Inc, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 8, Dec [24]
28: Dec, Sc 8, Inc, Sc 3, Inc, Sc 7, Dec [24]
29: Sc 12, Inc 3 times, Sc 9 [27]
*See P.3 on how to do a Dc Dec.

30: Dec, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 1, Inc, Inc, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 3, Dec [31]
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by Imagined Yarn
31: Dec, Sc 5, Inc, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 7, Inc, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 5 [34]

32: Dec, Sc 7, Inc, Sc 7, Inc, Sc 7, Inc, Sc 6, Dec [35]
33: Dec, Sc 10, Hdc 1, Dc 11, Hdc 1, Sc 10 [34]
34: Dec, Sc 8, Inc, Hdc 1, Dc 5, Dc 2 into the next stitch, Dc 2 into the next stitch, Dc 5,
Hdc 1, Inc, Sc 6, Dec [36]
35: Sc 10, Inc, Hdc 1, Dc 14, Hdc 1, Inc, Sc 6, Dec [37]
36: Dec, Sc 6, Inc, Sc 3, Hdc 1, Dc 14, Hdc 1, Sc 3, Inc, Sc 5 [38]
37: Sc 13, Hdc 1, Dc 13, Hdc 1, Sc 10 [38]
38: Sc 1, Inc, Sc 12, Hdc 1, Dc Dec, Dc 3, Dc Dec, Dc 3, Dc Dec, Hdc 1, Sc 10 [36]
39: Sc 15, Hdc 1, Dc Dec, Dc 6, Dc Dec, Hdc 1, Sc 9 [34]
40: Sc 10, Dec, Sc 3, Hdc 1, Dc 8, Hdc 1, Sc 3, Dec, Sc 4 [32]
41: Sc 2, Inc, Sc 4, Dec, Sc 2, Dec, Sc 2, Hdc 1, Dc 3, Dc Dec, Dc 2, Hdc 1, Sc 1, Dec, Sc 2,
Dec, Sc 1 [28]
42: Sc 28 [28]
43: Sc 3, Inc, Sc 24 [29]
44: Sc 4, Inc, Sc 24 [30]
45: Sc 30 [30]
46: Sc 5, Inc, Sc 9, Dec, Sc 7, Dec, Sc 4 [29]
48: Sc 7, Inc, Sc 12, Dec, Sc 6 [28]
49: Sc 18, Dec, Sc 3, Dec, Sc 3 [26]
50: Sc 8, Inc, Sc 11, Dec, Sc 4 [26]
52: Sc 10, Inc, Sc 10, Dec, Sc 2 [25]
53: Sc 22, Dec, Sc 1 [24]
54: Sc 3, Dec, Sc 12, Dec, Sc 5 [22]
55: Sc 9, Dec, Sc 11 [21]
56-58: Sc 21 (3 rounds of) [21]
59: Sc 19, Dec [20]
60: Sc 20 [20]
61: (Sc 8, Dec) 2 times [18]
62-65: Sc 18 (4 rounds of) [18]
66: (Sc 7, Dec) 2 times [16]
67-72: Sc 16 (6 rounds of) [16]
73: (Sc 6, Dec) 2 times [14]
74-79: Sc 14 (6 rounds of) [14]
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by Imagined Yarn
80: (Sc 5, Dec) 2 times [12]

81-88: Sc 12 (8 rounds of) [12]
89: Sc 10, Dec [11]
90-95: Sc 11 (6 rounds of) [11]
96: Sc 9, Dec [10]
97-101: Sc 10 (5 rounds of) [10]
102: Sc 8, Dec [9]
103-106: Sc 9 (4 rounds of) [9]
107: Sc 7, Dec [8]
108-110: Sc 8 (3 rounds of) [8]
111: Sc 6, Dec [7]
112-114: Sc 7 (3 rounds of) [7]
115: Sc 5, Dec [6]
116: Sc 6 [6]
117: Sc 6 [6]
118: Sc 4, Dec [5]
119: Sc 5 [5]
F/o. Then using your yarn needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of
each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
Lower Jaw (Optional)

1: Ch 2, Sc 3 into the 2nd Ch from your hook [3]
2: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3 [3]
3: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 1 [4]
4: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4 [4]
5: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4 [4]
6: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 1 [5]
7: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 2 [6]
8: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 3 [7]
9: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 5, Inc [9]
10: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 4 [10]
11: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10 [10]
12: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10 [10]
13: Ch 1, turn, Dec, Sc 6, Dec [8]
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by Imagined Yarn
15: Ch 1, don’t turn, Sc all the way down the next edge to the beginning yarn tail, Inc
into the corner, Sc along the next edge (You can hide the beginning yarn tail while
crocheting). F/o with a long tail for sewing.
Legs (Make 2)
There are two versions of the legs. One is easier to make but makes the dragon
harder to balance. The other is harder to make, but is much steadier and has claws.
Make sure to stuff the legs firmly so your dragon can stand.
Legs with Sturdy Claws (Used in Game of thrones dragon and Ice dragon- Make 2)
Begin with a long yarn tail for sewing the toes together.
1: Sc 6 in ring [6]
2: Inc 6 times [12]
3: Inc, Sc 3, Inc, (Ch 5, starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 4, Sc 1 into the next
available stitch) 2 times, Ch 5, starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 4, Inc into the
next available stitch, Sc 3, Inc [16]
4: In BLO, Sc 7, Then there should be your first toe. (Sc 4 up the 4 Ch of the first toe,
Ch 2, Sl St into the 2nd Ch from your hook [if you want a slightly longer claw, Ch 3,
Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 2], Sc 4 down the 4 stitches, Sc 1 into the
stitch between the claws [after the claw for the 3rd time]) 3 times, then in BLO, Sc 6
[16]
(You can change the color for your claws right after the Sc 4 in round 4)
5: Sc 7, Skip the first toe and Sc 1 into the stitch between the first and second toe,
Sc 1 in the stitch between the 2nd and 3rd toe, then Sc 1 into the stitch after the
3rd toe, Sc 6 [16]
Now you can sew the toes together. Taking the beginning yarn tail and a yarn
needle, bring it through the gap towards the first toe. Now sew the 4 stitches on
either side of the toe together. Then bring your long tail through the toe back to the
inside of your foot. Repeat this process on the 2nd and 3rd toe. Weave in any extra
yarn ends if you used multiple colors. (If you want, you can use wire in the toes for
more stability, it’s just difficult to put in)
(Resume crocheting)
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by Imagined Yarn
6: Sc 5, Dec, Sc 2, Dec, Sc 5 [14]

7: Sc 5, Dec 3 times, Sc 3 [11]
8: Inc, Sc 10 [12]
9: Sc 7, Dec, Sc 3 [11]
Stuff the foot enough that it's firm, but not too much so that the bottom of the
foot pushes out. You want the bottom of the foot to be flat. Continue stuffing the leg
firmly as you go.
10: Sc 1, Inc (If you want an ‘ankle claw’ like on my gray Wyvern, Ch 3, Starting in the
2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 2. Continue the round as normal and skip over the
claw in the next round), Sc 2, Dec, Sc 3, Dec [10]
11: Sc 7, Inc, Inc, Sc 1 [12]
12: Sc 1, Dc 4, Sc 3, Inc, Inc, Sc 2 [14]
13: Dec, Dc 2, Dec, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 3 [13]
14: Sc 13 [13]
15: Sc 8, Inc, Inc, Sc 3 [15]
16: Dec, Dec, Sc 6, Inc, Sc 4 [14]
17: Sc 1, Dec, Sc 3, Dc 6, Sc 2 [13]
18: Inc 3 times, Sc 2, Dc 6, Sc 2 [16]
19: Sc 9, Dc 2, Dc 2 into the next stitch, Dc 2, Sc 2 [17]
From now on, stuff the leg lightly.
20: Sc 3, Inc, Sc 5, Dc 6, Sc 2 [18]
21: Sc 18 [18]
22: Sc 4, Inc, Sc 13 [19]
23: Sc 10, Dec, Sc 5, Dec [17]
24: Sc 5, Inc, Sc 11 [18]
25: Sc 14, Dec, Sc 2 [17]
26: Dec, Sc 8, Dec, Sc 2, Dec, Sc 1 [14]
27: Sc 11, Dec, Sc 1 [13]
F/o with a long tail for sewing.
If you want wire in your legs, finish both legs and take your coil of wire. (Use
strong wire, because the legs will support most of your dragon) Carefully push the
end all the way down to the bottom of your foot, making sure to still keep the shape
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by Imagined Yarn
once you have pushed it through. If the end of the wire pokes through, you can pull it
about an inch out, fold the end over, and poke it back into the foot. Make sure you
bend the wire inside back to the original shape of the leg, and that the bottom of the
foot is still flat. Don’t insert wire into the other leg yet, you will assemble the legs in
the assembly section.
Legs Option 2- (with normal toes, but less balance, used in the feather wyvern,
Make 2)
1: Sc 6 in ring [6]
2: Inc 6 times [12]
3: Inc, Sc 3, Inc, (Ch 5, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 4, Sc 1 into the next
available stitch) 2 times, Ch 5, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 4, Inc into the
next available stitch, Sc 3, Inc [16]
4: In BLO, Sc 7, Sc 1 into the stitch between the 1rst and 2nd toe, Sc 1 into the stitch
between the 2nd and 3rd toe, then Sc 1 into the stitch after the 3rd toe, Sc 6 [16]
5: Sc 5, Dec, Sc 2, Dec, Sc 5 [14]
6: Sc 5, Dec 3 times, Sc 3 [11]
7: Inc, Sc 10 [12]
8: Sc 7, Dec, Sc 3 [11]
Stuff the foot enough that it's firm, but not too much so that the bottom of the
foot pushes out. You want the bottom of the foot to be flat. Continue stuffing the leg
firmly as you go.
9: Sc 1, Inc, Sc 2, Dec, Sc 3, Dec [10]
10: Sc 7, Inc, Inc, Sc 1 [12]
11: Sc 1, Dc 4, Sc 3, Inc, Inc, Sc 2 [14]
12: Dec, Dc 2, Dec, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 3 [13]
13: Sc 13 [13]
14: Sc 8, Inc, Inc, Sc 3 [15]
15: Dec, Dec, Sc 6, Inc, Sc 4 [14]
16: Sc 1, Dec, Sc 3, Dc 6, Sc 2 [13]
17: Inc 3 times, Sc 2, Dc 6, Sc 2 [16]
18: Sc 9, Dc 2, Dc 2 into the next stitch, Dc 2, Sc 2 [17]
From now on, stuff the leg lightly.
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by Imagined Yarn
19: Sc 3, Inc, Sc 5, Dc 6, Sc 2 [18]

20: Sc 18 [18]
21: Sc 4, Inc, Sc 13 [19]
22: Sc 10, Dec, Sc 5, Dec [17]
23: Sc 5, Inc, Sc 11 [18]
24: Sc 14, Dec, Sc 2 [17]
25: Dec, Sc 8, Dec, Sc 2, Dec, Sc 1 [14]
26: Sc 11, Dec, Sc 1 [13]
If you want wire in your legs, finish both legs and take your coil of wire. (Use
strong wire, because the legs will support most of your dragon) Carefully push the
end all the way down to the bottom of your foot, making sure to still keep the shape
once you have pushed it through. If the end of the wire pokes through, you can pull it
about an inch out, fold the end over, and poke it back into the foot. Make sure you
bend the wire inside back to the original shape of the leg, and that the bottom of the
foot is still flat. Don’t insert wire into the other leg yet, you will assemble the legs in
the assembly section.
Wings
The Wings consist of 6 parts each. 5 of these pieces are referred to as wing pieces A,
B, C, D, and E. The other is the wing arm, which will cover the wire and lies above wing
pieces A & E (There is also the optional wing claw).
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Wing Piece A (Make 2)

2: Ch 1, turn, Inc [2]
3: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2 [2]
4: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc [3]
5: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 1 [4]
6: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4 [4]
7: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 1 [5]
8: Ch 1, turn, Sc 5 [5]
9: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 4 [6]
10: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 5 [7]
11: Ch 1, turn, Sc 7 [7]
12: Ch 1, turn, Sc 6, Inc [8]
13: Ch 1, turn, Sc 8 [8]
14: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 7 [9]
15: Ch 1, turn, Sc 9 [9]
16: Ch 1, turn, Sc 8, Inc [10]
17: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10, Ch 13 [23]
18: Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 12, then Sc 10 [22]
19: Ch 1, turn, Sc 20, Dec [21]
20: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10, Dec, Sc 9 [20]
21: Ch 1, turn, Sc 20 [20]
22: Ch 1, turn, Sc 20 [20]
23: Ch 1, turn, Sc 18, Dec [19]
24: Ch 1, turn, Sc 19 [19]
25: Ch 1, turn, Sc 9, Dec, Sc 8 [18]
26: Ch 1, turn, Sc 18 [18]
27: Ch 1, turn, Sc 14, Hdc 1, Dc 2, Htr 1* [18]
28: Ch 2, turn, Htr 1, Dc 2, Hdc 1, Sc 9, Hdc 2, Dc 2, Htr 1 [18]
F/o with a short tail. *If you don’t know how to do a Htr stitch, See P. 3.
Wing Piece B (Make 2)

3: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2 [2]
4: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc [3]
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5: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3 [3]
6: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 1 [4]
7: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4 [4]
8: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 1 [5]
9: Ch 1, turn, Sc 5 [5]
10: Ch 1, turn, Sc 5 [5]
11: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4, Inc [6]
12: Ch 1, turn, Sc 6 [6]
13: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 5 [7]
14: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 6 [8]
15: Ch 1, turn, Sc 8 [8]
16: Ch 1, turn, Sc 7, Inc [9]
17: Ch 1, turn, Sc 8, Inc [10]
18: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10 [10]
19: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10 [10]
20: Ch 1, turn, Sc 9, Inc [11]
21: Ch 1, turn, Sc 11 [11]
22: Ch 1, turn, Sc 11 [11]
23: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 10 [12]
24: Ch 1, turn, Sc 12 [12]
25: Ch 1, turn, Sc 12 [12]
26: Ch 1, turn, Sc 11, Inc [13]
27: Ch 1, turn, Sc 7, Hdc 3, Dc 3 [13]
28: Ch 1, turn, Dc 3, Hdc 3, Sc 7 [13]
29: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 5, Hdc 5, Dc 2 [14]
30: Ch 1, turn, Dc 2, Hdc 5, Sc 7 [14]
31: Ch 1, turn, Sc 7, Hdc 4, Dc 2, Htr 2 into the last stitch [15]
32: Ch 2, turn, Htr 1, Dc 2, Hdc 5, Sc 6, Inc [16]
33: Ch 2, turn, Htr 1, Dc 1, Hdc 1, Sc 9, Hdc 1, Dc 1, Htr 1, Tr 1 [16]
F/o with a short tail.
Wing Piece C (Make 2)

3: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2 [2]
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4: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc [3]

5: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3 [3]
6: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3 [3]
7: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 1 [4]
8: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4 [4]
9: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4 [4]
10: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 1 [5]
11-13: Ch 1, turn, Sc 5 (3 rows of) [5]
14: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 2 [6]
15-17: Ch 1, turn, Sc 6 (3 rounds of) [6]
18: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3, Inc, Sc 2 [7]
19: Ch 1, turn, Sc 7 [7]
20: Ch 1, turn, Sc 7 [7]
21: Ch 1, turn, Sc 6, Inc [8]
22: Ch 1, turn, Sc 8 [8]
23: Ch 1, turn, Sc 7, Inc [9]
24: Ch 1, turn, Sc 9 [9]
25: Ch 1, turn, Sc 9 [9]
26: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 8 [10]
27: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10 [10]
28: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10 [10]
29: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 9 [11]
30: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 10 [12]
31: Ch 1, turn, Sc 12 [12]
32: Ch 1, turn, Sc 12 [12]
33: Ch 1, turn, Sc 11, Inc [13]
34: Ch 1, turn, Sc 13 [13]
35: Ch 1, turn, Dc 2, Hdc 3, Sc 8 [13]
36: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 6, Hdc 4, Dc 2 [14]
37: Ch 1, turn, Dc 3, Hdc 3, Sc 8 [14]
38: Ch 1, turn, Sc 12, Hdc 1, Dc 1 [14]
39: Ch 1, turn, Dc 2 into the next stitch, Hdc 5, Sc 7, Inc [16]
40: Ch 1, turn, Sc 11, Hdc 3, Dc 2 [16]
41: Ch 2, turn, Htr 1, Dc 1, Hdc 2, Sc 12 [16]
42: Ch 2, turn, Htr 1, Dc 1, Hdc 1, Sc 9, Hdc 1, Dc 1, Htr 1, Tr 1
[16]
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Wing Piece D (Make 2)

3: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2 [2]
4: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc [3]
5: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3 [3]
6: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3 [3]
7: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 1 [4]
8: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4 [4]
9: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4 [4]
10: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 1 [5]
11: Ch 1, turn, Sc 5 [5]
12: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 2 [6]
13: Ch 1, turn, Sc 6 [6]
14: Ch 1, turn, Sc 5, Inc [7]
15: Ch 1, turn, Sc 7 [7]
16: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 6 [8]
17: Ch 1, turn, Sc 8 [8]
18: Ch 1, turn, Sc 8 [8]
19: Ch 1, turn, Inc, Sc 7 [9]
20: Ch 1, turn, Sc 9 [9]
21: Ch 1, turn, Sc 8, Inc [10]
22: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10 [10]
23: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10 [10]
24: Ch 1, turn, Sc 9, Inc [11]
25: Ch 1, turn, Sc 11 [11]
26: Ch 1, turn, Sc 11 [11]
27: Ch 1, turn, Sc 10, Inc [12]
28: Ch 1, turn, Sc 12 [12]
29: Ch 1, turn, Sc 12 [12]
30: Ch 1, turn, Sc 11, Inc [13]
31: Ch 1, turn, Sc 13 [13]
32: Ch 1, turn, Sc 13 [13]
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33: Ch 1, turn, Sc 12, Inc [14]

34: Ch 1, turn, Sc 14 [14]
35: Ch 1, turn, Sc 14 [14]
36: Ch 1, turn, Sc 13, Inc [15]
37: Ch 1, turn, Sc 15 [15]
38: Ch 1, turn, Sc 15 [15]
39: Ch 1, turn, Sc 14, Inc [16]
40-43: Ch 1, turn, Sc 16 (4 rows of) [16]
44: Ch 2, turn, Tr 1, Htr 1, Dc 1, Hdc 2, Sc 6, Hdc 2, Dc 1, Htr 1, Tr 1 [16]
45: Ch 2, turn, Tr 1, Htr 1, Dc 2 into the next stitch, Hdc 2, Sc 6, Hdc 2, Dc 2 into the
next stitch, Htr 1, Tr 1 [18]
Wing Piece E (Make 2)

3: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2 [2]
4: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2 [2]
5: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc [3]
6: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3 [3]
7: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3 [3]
8: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 1 [4]
9-12: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4 (4 rows of) [4]
13: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 1 [5]
14-19: Ch 1, turn, Sc 5 (6 rows of) [5]
20: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 2 [6]
21: Ch 1, turn, Sc 6 [6]
22: Ch 1, turn, Sc 6 [6]
23: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3, Inc, Sc 2 [7]
24-32: Ch 1, turn, Sc 7 (9 rows of) [7]
33: Ch 1, turn, Dc 1, Hdc 1, Sc 2, Hdc 1, Dc 1, Htr 1 [7]
34: Ch 1, turn, Tr 1, Htr 1 into the same stitch space as the Tr,
Dc 1, Hdc 1, Sc 3, Dc 1 [8]
page 15
by Imagined Yarn
Wing Arm (Make 2)

Begin with a long tail.
1: Ch 11, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 10 [10]
3: Ch 1, turn, Sc 8 [8]
4: Ch 1, turn, Sc 8 [8]
6-9: Ch 1, turn, Sc 6 (4 rows of) [6]
10: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Dec, Sc 2 [5]
11: Ch 1, turn, Sc 5 [5]
12: Ch 1, turn, Sc 5 [5]
13: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3, Dec [4]
14-27: Ch 1, turn, Sc 4 (14 rows of) [4]
28: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Dec, Sc 1 [3]
29-68: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3 (40 rows of) [3]
69: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Dec [2]
F/o with a Very long tail for sewing both the wing arm together, and the wing
arm to the wing later.
Wing Claw (Optional, Make 2)

2: Ch 1, turn, Hdc 1, Sc 2 [3]
3: (This is the tip of the claw, you can change yarn colors if you want) Ch 3, Starting in
the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 1, Sc 1, (Change back to body color here) Sc 3 [3]
4: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3 (leave the last two stitches unworked) [3]
5: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, Hdc 1 [3]
F/o with a long tail for sewing. Now find the two opposite edges with the 3 sc
and beginning Ch. Then using your yarn needle, sew these sides together, one ch to
one sc. Then bring the yarn tail through the sewed cylinder out the bottom for sewing
onto the wing later.
page 16
by Imagined Yarn
Assembly
● If you made the Optional lower jaw, Pin it right underneath the head so it lines
up with the head structure. If you want a closed mouth, sew it closed all the
way around. If you want an open mouth, sew just the back edge to the head.
Legs Assembly - Without Wire

● Taking Your Dragon body and two legs, position the legs on either side of the
body; behind the chest but slightly in front of where the tail angles downward.
Pin the legs to the body, making sure that your dragon can stand and balance
as well as possible. Once you are satisfied with the positioning, sew the legs to
the body and weave in the ends.
Legs Assembly - With Wire

● Taking Your Dragon body and two legs, position the legs on either side of the
body; behind the chest but slightly in front of where the tail angles downward.
Pin the legs to the body (including the one with wire sticking out of it), making
sure that your dragon can stand and balance as well as possible. Then taking
the coil of wire, insert the end into the body right next to where it comes out of
the leg, through the body and out of the corresponding side next to the other
leg. Carefully push the wire end through this leg and all the way down to the
bottom of the foot, making sure to still keep the shape once you have pushed
it through. Push the wire out through the bottom of the foot, and once you’re
done, cut the wire so there is about an inch poking out. Then fold the end over,
and poke it back into the foot. Make sure you bend the wire inside back to the
original shape of the leg, and that the bottom of the foot is still flat. Once you
are satisfied with the positioning, sew the legs to the body and weave in the
ends.
page 17
by Imagined Yarn
Wings Pieces Assembly

● Taking half of your wing pieces, (Pieces A-E, One of each), arrange them so that
each piece is on the right side of the piece before it, Starting with piece A, and
the ending yarn tails are on the right side (left side for the left wing). Instead of
sewing the wing pieces together, you will be crocheting them together. First,
start with wing pieces A and B. Position them according to the wing diagram
below. Using your body color, insert your hook through both pieces at the
starting tails of piece A and B. Sc down through both pieces until you get to the
end, hiding any extra yarn ends as you go. Then Ch 3, turn, Sl St 1 into the 2nd
Ch from your hook, Sl St 1, Sl St through the rest of the Scs until you get to the
end, Ch 1. Now position wing piece C onto the other side of wing piece B. Insert
your hook through both sides where the beginning tails are. Do the same
procedure by Single crocheting down through both sides, Ch 3, turn, starting in
the 2nd Ch, Sl St all the way back up, Ch 1. Repeat this connecting procedure
between pieces C and D, and then D and E (There will be a spot at the end of D
and E where you will just be crocheting on D). F/o with a short tail. Repeat this
whole procedure for the other wing, except your wing pieces should all be
flipped to face the opposite direction. Make Sure You have One right wing and
One left wing. (Not two left wings or two right wings)
Wings Assembly - Without Wire

● Taking your Wing Arms, fold them in half lengthwise and sew them together
using the ending long tails. Then bend them along the top of each wing, and
using the same long yarn tails, sew the wing arms to the wings (The thickest
part of each wing arm should be above Piece A). Then lightly stuff the thickest
part of both wing arms. Weave in any extra short ends.
● Pin both wings on either side of your dragon so that the wing arms are over the
shoulder area and the lines of single crochet connecting the wing pieces are
facing downward. When you are satisfied with the positioning, sew the wings to
the body using the long yarn tails. (If you used a different color for the wing
pieces, tie a long tail of that color to an extra yarn tail so you can sew the wing
piece A’s to the body) Weave in all the extra yarn ends.
● If you made the Wing claws, Sew them to the tip of each wing.
page 18
by Imagined Yarn
Wings Assembly - With Wire

● Using your coil of wire, bend it along the top of one wing so the tip touches the
end of piece E.
● Take one wing arm and line it up with the wire so that the Wing arm’s F/o is
against the tip of the wire. Then using the wing arm’s ending long tail, Sew the
wing arm together around the wire.
● Place the Wing arm along the top of the wing, and sew them together using the
same long tail you used to sew the Wing arm together. Then lightly stuff the
thickest part of the wing arm. Weave in any extra short ends.
● Flip your wing over and insert the other end of the wire through your dragon’s
shoulder area and out the other side so that the lines of single crochet
connecting the wing pieces are facing downward. (Make sure they’re
symmetrical).
● Taking your other wing, flip your dragon over, and bend the wire on the other
side to match the top of the wing. Cut your wire once you are satisfied with the
length, and sew the other wing arm around it just like the other wing.
● Place the wing underneath the wing arm, and sew them together using the
same long tail you used to sew the Wing arm together. Then lightly stuff the
thickest part of the wing arm. Weave in any extra short ends.
● Pin both wings down on either side of your dragon. When you are satisfied with
the positioning, sew the wings to the body using the long yarn tails. (If you
used a different color for the wing pieces, tie a long tail of that color to an
extra yarn tail so you can sew the wing piece A’s to the body) Weave in all the
extra yarn ends.
● If you made the Wing claws, Sew them to the tip of each wing.
● You can add more wire through the bottoms of the wings if more support is
needed, however, it’s easy to see the wire if you do this.
page 19
by Imagined Yarn
Optional Details
Nose Shaping
● On two of my Wyverns I created a ridge above the nose for more facial
definition. To do this, take a long piece of yarn and a needle. Weave the yarn
back and forth through the sides until you have the length you want.
● If you used safety eyes on your dragon, you can add more slant to the eyes by
adding a couple strips of body color yarn above the eyes.
● If you haven't done your eyes yet, feel free to embroider them now.
Add-On Decorations (Horns, Spikes, ect)
Ice Dragon Add-Ons

● 6 Horns and line of spikes.
Horns (Make 2)
The Ice dragon’s horns are made in two pairs of three horns connected together, so
three horns on either side of the head.
1: Ch 13, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 5, Hdc 3, Dc 4 [12]
2: Ch 1, turn, Dc 6, Hdc 3, Sc 3 [12]
3: Ch 1, turn, Sl St 1, Sc 2, Hdc 3, Dc 6 [12]
4: Ch 1 (This Ch 1 just separates the first and second horn)
6: Ch 1, turn, Hdc 4, Sc 5 [9]
7: Ch 1, turn, Sl St 2, Sc 4, Hdc 3 [9]
8: Ch 1 (This Ch separates the 2nd and 3rd horn)
9: Ch 8, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 3, Hdc 4 [7]
10: Ch 1, turn, Dc 1, Hdc 2, Sc 3, Sl St 1 [7]
page 20
by Imagined Yarn
Now using your long tail, fold the last horn you made in half lengthwise and
sew it together. Bring the tail through the connecting Ch to the next horn. Fold the
2nd horn in half lengthwise and sew it together. Bring the yarn tail down through the
horn and through the next connecting Ch. Fold the last horn in half lengthwise and
sew it together. Bring the yarn tail down through the last horn so you can sew the
horns to the head later.
Optional Rims Above the Horns (Make 2)

The rims are two strips of crochet made from the body color that go on top of the
horns’ bases. They help make the seam of the horns straighter and more realistic.
Line of Spikes
These spikes extend from the back of the head to the tip of the tail. Feel free to
modify the amount of spikes to fit your dragon.
1-2: (Ch 3, Sl St into the 2nd Ch from your hook) 2 times
3-6: (Ch 4, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 1, Sc 1) 4 times
7-16: (Ch 5, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 1, Sc 1, Hdc 1) 10 times
33-34: (Ch 4, Sc 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook) 2 times
35: Ch 4, Sl St into the 2nd Ch from your hook
Ice dragon Add-Ons Assembly

● Taking your two groups of horns, pin one on each side so that the biggest
horns are on the top, and the smallest toward the bottom. When you are
satisfied with the positioning, sew the horns to the head. Weave in the ends.
● If you made the Optional Horn Rims, place one over the base of each group of
horns. When you are satisfied with the positioning, sew them onto the horns
and the head. Weave in the ends.
page 21
by Imagined Yarn
● Pin the line of spikes onto the body so that the ending yarn tail is over the
dragon’s tail. When you are satisfied with the positioning, sew the spikes on
and weave in the ends.
Feather Dragon Add-Ons

● Feather Headpiece and Tail Piece.
Feather Tail Pieces (Make 2)

1: Ch 9, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 1, Hdc 7 [8]
2: Ch 1, turn, In BLO, Inc, Sc 5, leave the last 2 stitches unworked [7]
3: Ch 6, turn, Starting in the 2nd from your hook, Sc 1, Hdc 4, In BLO, Hdc 7 [12]
13: Ch 2, turn, Starting in the 2nd from your hook, Sc 1, In BLO, Sc 3 [4]
Feather Head Piece

1: Ch 3, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 1, Sc 1 [2]
2: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Leave the last stitch unworked, Ch 4, Starting in the 2nd Ch from
your hook, Sl St 1, Sc 3 [4]
3: Ch 1, turn, Sc 2, leave the last 2 stitches unworked, Ch 4, Starting in the 2nd Ch
from your hook, Sl St 1, Sc 4 [5]
from your hook, Sc 2, Hdc 4 [6]
page 22
by Imagined Yarn

from your hook, Hdc 1, Dc 6, Hdc 1, Sc 1 [9]
13: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, leave the last 3 stitches unworked, Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch
from your hook, Sc 1 [2]
Feather Dragon Add-Ons Assembly

● Pin the feather tail pieces on either side of the tip of the tail, and sew them on
when you are satisfied with the positioning. Then pin and sew the Feather head
piece onto the head and weave in the yarn ends.
page 23
by Imagined Yarn
Game of Thrones Dragon Add-Ons

● 4 large horns, 2 smaller horns, Face Spikes, Back of the neck fins, and tail fins.
Large Horns (Make 2)

The Game of Thrones dragon’s horns are made in two pairs of two horns connected
together, so two horns on either side of the head.
1: Ch 13, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 5, Hdc 3, Dc 2, Htr 2 [12]
2: Ch 1, turn, Htr 3, Dc 2, Hdc 3, Sc 3, Sl St [12]
3: Ch 1, turn, Skip the Sl St, Sl St 2, Sc 4, Hdc 3, Dc 2 [11]
4: Ch 2 (These two Chs separate the 1rst and 2nd horns)
6: Ch 1, turn, Dc 1, Hdc 2, Sc 3, Sl St 2 [8]
Now using your long tail, fold the last horn you made in half lengthwise and
sew it together. Bring the tail through the connecting Chs to the next horn. Fold the
2nd horn in half lengthwise and sew it together. Bring the yarn tail down through the
horn so you can sew the horns to the head later.
Small Horns (Make 2)

These horns will go just below the large horns on the head to make 3 horns on each
side.
1: Ch 5, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 2, Sc 1, Hdc 1 [4]
Line of Spikes Around the Head

The line of spikes will begin along the top of the largest horn on one side of the head,
continue down along the tops of the other two spikes, down the jawline, extend
around the chin and up the other side.
1: Ch 2, Sc 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook
page 24
by Imagined Yarn

14: Ch 6 (these Chs mark the midpoint of the spikes and will go right underneath the
chin)
27: Ch 2, Sc 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook
Line of Spikes around the eyes (Optional, Make 2)

1-7: (Ch 2, Sc 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook) 7 times (You can add a Ch 1 between
each spike if you want larger spacing)
Head and Neck Fins (Make 2)

1: Ch 28, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 2, Sc 3, Hdc 2, Dc 13, Hdc 2, Sc 4,
Sl St 1 [27]
2: Ch 1, turn, skip the first Sl St, Sl St 2, (Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook,
Sc 1 into the next stitch, Sl St 1) 8 times, (Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your
hook, Sl St 1 into the next stitch, Sl St 1) 3 times
page 25
by Imagined Yarn
Tail Fins (Make 2)

1: Ch 69, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 1, Sc 6, Hdc 13, Sc 31, Hdc 10,
Sc 6, Sl St 1 [68]
2: Turn, Don’t Ch 1, Skip the first Sl St, Sl St 3, Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your
hook, Sl St 1 into the next St, Sc 1, (Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 1
into the next stitch, Sc 1) 2 times, (Ch 3, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 2,
Sc 1 into the next stitch, Sc 1) 2 times, Ch 3, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl
St 2, Dec into the next two stitches, Sc 1, (Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook,
Sc 1 into the next stitch, Sl St 1) 2 times, Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook,
Dec into the next two stitches, Sl St 1, Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 1
into the next stitch, Sl St 1, Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 1 into
the next Stitch, Sl St 18, Dec, Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 1 into the
next stitch, Sl St 1, Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 1 into the next
stitch, Sc 1, (Ch 3, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 2, Hdc 1 into the next
stitch, Sc 1, Ch 3, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 2, Hdc 1 into the next
stitch, Dec) 2 times, Ch 3, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 2, Hdc 1 into the
next stitch, Sl St 1, (Ch 2, Sl St 1 into the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sc 1 into the next
stitch, Sl St 1) 2 times, Sl St 1
Game of Thrones Dragon Assembly

● Taking your two groups of horns, pin one on each side of the head so that the
biggest horns are on the top, and the smallest toward the bottom. When you
are satisfied with the positioning, sew the horns to the head. Weave in the
ends.
● If you made the Small horns, pin them underneath each set of horns and sew
them on. Weave in the ends.
● Pin the line of Spikes around the head so that each end starts above the
biggest two horns’ bases, runs along the bases of the other horns, wraps
around the jaw and underneath the chin. When you are satisfied with the
positioning, sew the line of spikes on and weave in the ends.
● If you made the optional line of spikes around the eyes, position them so they
make an arc above each of your eyes. When you are satisfied with the
positioning, sew them on and weave in the ends.
page 26
by Imagined Yarn
● Taking your Head & Neck Fins, press both of them against each other and pin
onto the back of the head and along the neck.
● To Sew the fins on, do them one at a time. Cut a long strand of body color yarn
and take your yarn needle. If you aren’t embroidering lines onto the fins, just
sew the fins to the body and weave in the ends. If you are, begin by sewing the
fin to the body until you get to a spot under the first top point on the fin. Then
bring your strand up through the tip of the point and down the other side so
they’re symmetrical on both sides. Continue doing this process of sewing the
fin to the body but stopping for each top point on the fin. For the middle
points, I doubled up 3 of the lines so they were thicker. Just bring your strand
through the tip of the point and around the other side twice. You can also add
a loop at the top of the fin point for more body color. Repeat this process on
the other head fin and weave in any yarn tails.
● Taking your tail fins, pin them on either side of the tail so that the side with the
greater amount of fin points is closer to the tip of the tail.
● Then taking a long strand of Body color Yarn and a yarn needle, repeat the
same process as the top fins (Just sew them to the tail if you don’t want
embroidered lines). Embroider lines along the points and sew the fins to the
tail. You can double up the middle points of both the top and bottom sections
of the tail fins. For the middle section, I made about ten lines evenly spaced
out on either side. When you have finished sewing the fins, weave in any
remaining yarn ends.
Congratulations!
You’ve finished your Wyvern!
page 27

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Text Only Crochet Giant Wyvern PDF Pattern

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Abbreviations and stitches

*See P.3 on how to do a Dc Dec.

31: Dec, Sc 5, Inc, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 7, Inc, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 5 [34]

80: (Sc 5, Dec) 2 times [12]

Lower Jaw (Optional)

6: Sc 5, Dec, Sc 2, Dec, Sc 5 [14]

19: Sc 3, Inc, Sc 5, Dc 6, Sc 2 [18]

Wing Piece A (Make 2)

Wing Piece B (Make 2)

Wing Piece C (Make 2)

4: Ch 1, turn, Sc 1, Inc [3]

F/o with a short tail.

Wing Piece D (Make 2)

33: Ch 1, turn, Sc 12, Inc [14]

Wing Piece E (Make 2)

Wing Arm (Make 2)

Wing Claw (Optional, Make 2)

Legs Assembly - Without Wire

Legs Assembly - With Wire

Wings Pieces Assembly

Wings Assembly - Without Wire

Wings Assembly - With Wire

Add-On Decorations (Horns, Spikes, ect)

Ice Dragon Add-Ons

Optional Rims Above the Horns (Make 2)

Ice dragon Add-Ons Assembly

Feather Dragon Add-Ons

Feather Tail Pieces (Make 2)

Feather Head Piece

5: Ch 1, turn, Sc 3, leave the last 3 stitches unworked, Ch 5, Starting in the 2nd Ch

Feather Dragon Add-Ons Assembly

Game of Thrones Dragon Add-Ons

Large Horns (Make 2)

Small Horns (Make 2)

Line of Spikes Around the Head

7-10: (Ch 3, Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook, Sl St 1, Sc 1) 4 times

Line of Spikes around the eyes (Optional, Make 2)

Head and Neck Fins (Make 2)

Tail Fins (Make 2)

Game of Thrones Dragon Assembly

You’ve finished your Wyvern!

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