BTLE 30233

CLOTHING
CONSTRUCTION
BBTLEDHE 3-1
Monday (5:00 – 8:00 PM)
 UNIT V: FABRIC
 5.1 Fabric Widths
 5.2 Grain Lines
 5.3 Preparation of Fabric for Clothing
Topics to be Construction
discussed:  5.3.1 Straightening
 5.3.2 Tearing
 5.3.3 Shrinking
 5.4 Different Types of Fabrics and its Application
in Clothing
 UNIT V: FABRIC
5.1 Select a suitable fabric for given
LEARNING application
OBJECTIVES 5.2 Prepare a given fabric for given
application using appropriate technique
 FABRIC WIDTH
❑ The overall width is defined as the distance, at
right angles to the length of the fabric, between
the outermost warp threads in the piece.
❑ Usable width is defined as the distance, at right
I. Defining angles to the length of the fabric, between the
Fabric Width outermost warp threads of the body of the
fabric.
❑ It is the width of the fabric excluding any
selvedge materials, marks, pinholes or other
non-homogeneous areas of the fabric
I. Defining
Fabric Width
 FABRIC WIDTH
❑Faults in the fabric occur when the
usable width the delivered piece is less
than that specified in the contract.
I. Defining
Fabric Width
❑Fabric is purchased by yard. Whenever
you buy a yard of fabric, someone
measures out 36” of material.
 Basic Guide in Buying the Right Amount of Fabric
1. 20” – Generally, the only material this narrow
is interfacing. It doesn’t need to come in wide
widths, since you mostly use it on small
I. Defining pattern pieces (waistbands, collars, etc.)

Fabric Width
 Basic Guide in Buying the Right Amount of Fabric
2. 36” – Many vintage fabrics are narrower than
the current standard, measuring 36” wide or
less. If you’re looking at modern fabrics in this
I. Defining width, they’re probably utilitarian (muslin,
cotton duck, etc.).
Fabric Width
 Basic Guide in Buying the Right Amount of Fabric
3. 45” – This is the standard width for quilting
cottons and apparel fabric.

I. Defining
Fabric Width
 Basic Guide in Buying the Right Amount of Fabric
4. 54” – Upholstery and home decorating fabrics
are usually wider than average. This is
because they’re used for home décor.
I. Defining
Fabric Width
 Basic Guide in Buying the Right Amount of Fabric
5. 60” – Non-standard apparel fabrics (knit jersey,
corduroy, twill, etc.) tend to come in wider-than-
average widths.

I. Defining 6. 90” – 100” – While its rare to find fabric that’s

Fabric Width wider than 60”, they do make quilt backings and
sheeting fabrics that are extremely wide. They’re
more expensive than standard widths – likely
because you’re getting a lot more fabric per yard.
I. Defining
Fabric Width
I. Defining
Fabric Width
I. Defining
Fabric Width
  Lengthwise yarns are called warp – they form
the skeleton of the fabric; crosswise yarns
which lie perpendicular to the selvedges of the
fabric are called weft, or filling or woof.

II. How to Find

Grain Line
  In terms of sewing, a reference to the
grain of the fabric indicates how the fabric
should be cut so that the lengthwise
yarns will be parallel to the length of
II. How to Find the body for better fit and drape.
Grain Line
 For example, the lengthwise grain is cut
so that they run vertically on the garment/
body, and the crosswise grain runs
horizontally across the body.
  In terms of sewing, a reference to the
grain of the fabric indicates how the fabric
should be cut so that the lengthwise
yarns will be parallel to the length of
II. How to Find the body for better fit and drape.
Grain Line
 For example, the lengthwise grain is cut
so that they run vertically on the garment/
body, and the crosswise grain runs
horizontally across the body.
 GRAINLINE

 On fabric, it refers to the direction of the

yarns along the warp thread i.e., lengthwise
yarn. This is the lengthwise grain.
II. How to Find
Grain Line  The weft thread is referred to as the
crosswise grainline. The crosswise grainline
is perpendicular to length or warp grain. It
has some stretch to it but not as much as
bias grain.
 GRAINLINE
 In a sewing pattern, grainline refers to the
lines marked on the pattern to give you
directions on how to place it on fabric.
II. How to Find  The ends of the grainlines will have
Grain Line arrowheads to show direction, for your
understanding.
 The sewing pattern is kept on the fabric such
that the grain line mark is parallel to the
selvedge of the fabric
 GRAINLINE
 In a sewing pattern, grainline refers to the
lines marked on the pattern to give you
directions on how to place it on fabric.
II. How to Find  The ends of the grainlines will have
Grain Line arrowheads to show direction, for your
understanding.
 The sewing pattern is kept on the fabric such
that the grain line mark is parallel to the
selvedge of the fabric
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/fabric-width
http://yesterdaysthimble.com/fabric-widths/
https://sew4home.com/fabric-width-yardage-conversion-chart/
https://www.uptownatelier.com/create-your-happy/what-is-grainline
Activity:

1. Discuss the difference between

fabric width and grain lines.
2. Why is it important to understand
fabric widths?