Lounging Leafer Giraffe Doll

Lounging
Leafer
Giraffe Doll
Sewing Pattern
and Tutorial with
step-by-step
instructions
and photos
BONUS:
Includes variations for
different styles and skill
levels
SKILL LEVEL:
Confident Beginner with
Intermediate Variations
Rustic Horseshoe, LLC

Copyright 2009-2019
All Rights Reserved
Lounging Leafer
Giraffe Doll
ABBREVIATED SUPPLY LIST:

(See full supply list with extras and notions inside)
~ ²⁄³ yard Shannon Cuddle® minky for body (alternative
fabrics: fleece, quality cotton, repurposed clothing, etc)
~ ¼ yard minky for hooves (alternative fabrics: quality

cotton, fleece, corduroy, etc)
~ ¼ yard minky for markings and muzzle (alternative
fabrics: quality cotton, faux fur, corduroy, etc)
~ ¼ skein yarn or 10" x 10" piece of shaggy minky or a
scrap of kint fabric (these are options for the mane and tip
of the tail) BONUS
Free Dress and
~ 20 oz fiber filling*
Bandana Patterns
1 pair 30mm safety bolted eyes (or make them from fabric) online!
Find more patterns plus
free mini tutorials at
RusticHorseshoe.com
Copyright 2009-2019
All rights reserved.
RHS-LLGD-1
Rustic Horseshoe, LLC Copyright 2009-2019 All rights reserved Lounging Leafer Giraffe Doll Tutorial • B
Introduction
An imagination is a powerful thing! Help a child embrace it with
this soft toy. A softie can become an inseparable friend and com-
fort to a child and hold special childhood memories for years to
come. The first Teddy Bear was created circa 1880 and stuffed
animals have been synonymous with childhood ever since.
The Giraffe is approximately 23 inches from the bottom of the hoof

Welcome!
I’m excited you’ve decided to create
to the top of the horns (15 inches sitting) and approximately 10 with me. I’m a self-taught designer
inches wide at the widest point. It is generously sized to give plenty and seamstress. I founded Rustic
of cuddles. One pattern tester successfully made this giraffe at half Horseshoe in 2009.
size. So, if you're wanting a smaller plushie...give it a go! I hope you enjoy creating your
version of this cutie as much as I
enjoyed designing it! I originally
created my Giraffe Doll in the
spring of 2019. My pattern
templates are hand drafted then
put into their finished digital
format.
Thank you for reviewing my
copyright statement and terms
of use at the end of this tutorial. I
greatly appreciate your honesty
and respect of the hard work I
put into developing my patterns.
We are all diverse in our
methods of sewing and crafting.
I offer suggestions for different
options and encourage you to
find what suits you best.
It is beneficial to read this tutorial
in its entirety before beginning
this project. I stand behind all
of my products and encourage
you to contact me if you have
any questions along the way.
TABLE OF CONTENTS My contact information can be
Supplies..............................................2 Copyright & Terms of Use...........22 found at the end of this tutorial.
Now that I have that out of the
Preparation........................................3 Resources.........................................23 way…what are you waiting for?!
Let’s get this adorable giraffe
Glossary..............................................3 Pattern Templates................... 24-31
softie made!
Construction & Assembly.......4-19
Inspiration................................ 20-21
Rustic Horseshoe, LLC Copyright 2009-2019 All rights reserved Lounging Leafer Giraffe Doll Tutorial • 1
Supplies
FABRICS, TRIMS & FIBERS:
~ ²⁄³ yard minky for body (alternative fabrics:
quality cotton, faux fur, fleece, flanel, repurposed
clothing etc)
~ ¼ yard minky for hooves (alternative fabrics:

quality cotton, fleece, corduroy, etc)
~ ¼ yard minky for markings and muzzle

(alternative fabrics: quality cotton, faux fur,
corduroy, etc)
~ ¼ skein yarn or a 10 inch by 10 inch piece of

shaggy minky or a scrap of knit fabric (new or
repurposed from a t-shirt) -These are options for
the mane and tip of the tail.
TIP: When selecting your fabric, consider what NOTIONS AND EQUIPMENT:
colors you may want for ears, horns, horn tips, sewing machine
muzzle, the stripe down the center of the nose, belly
thread
triangle and the bottom half of the legs. Some of
these are optional and others just depend on the look fabric scissors
you'd like. You can certainly make a cute giraffe
with just a giraffe print fabric with a solid color for awl* (if using safety bolt eyes)
the hooves and muzzle or you can have several color
elements for these different options.
OPTIONAL FABRICS, TRIMS, FIBERS,
MATERIALS AND NOTIONS:
OTHER MATERIALS: Scrap of fabric for inner ear applique
~ 20 oz fiber filling* scrap of heavy fusible interfacing (to make ears
1 pair 20mm or 30mm safety bolted eyes (30mm stick out more and to stabilize fabric on ears for
is shown in this tutorial and is recommended, but applique)
20mm will work well too) Neck support dowel: ~9-11 inch long ¼ inch dowel
capped on both ends with a small ball, such as a 1
inch ball.
Scrap of iron-on adhesive (such as HeatnBond

light) for ear applique.
TIP: If you'd like to make your eyes out of fabric, I
offer a free tutorial for applique eyes on my website 1 pair false eyelashes* (the kind people wear) or a
in the "mini tutorials" section. strip of these ½ inch by 5 7/8 inch doll lashes
*Disclaimer: These products may contain affiliate links.
Please see the References page near the end of this tutorial for a list of vendors who supply some of the above
products. .
Preparation Glossary
Selvage Edge: The edge of
1. Gather the materials, notions and equipment listed on the supplies page.
the fabric which is woven
Print the template pages and confirm the 1 inch square on each template
to prevent fraying; it has a
page prints to 1 square inch to ensure your different appearance than the
templates printed to the correct size. body of the fabric.
2. Cut the full size pattern templates from Lengthwise Grain: The grain
paper. Trace the applique markings you’d like which runs the length of the
to use onto another sheet of paper and cut out fabric (parallel with the selvage
(or print those pages twice). edge).
3. Iron fabric pieces, excluding any fabrics you Applique: Ornamentation, as a

cutout design, that is sewn onto
have chosen that are not iron friendly.
or otherwise applied to a piece
4. Following the cutting instructions on each of material.
pattern piece, trace and cut your pattern
Satin Stitch: A series of
pieces out of fabric. flat stitches that are used to
The placement on the grain of the fabric is completely cover where two
imperative to the proper shape of the finished fabrics meet on an applique
design, basically a zig zag
animal.
stitch which is stitched so close
together there are no gaps.
TIP: It is easiest to trace the pattern templates Baste Stitch: To sew with long,
onto the back of the faux fur (or minky) and loose stitches, as in temporarily
cut the backing only (not the nap). tacking together pieces of fabric
while an item is being made
Cutting Fur: If you plan to use fur make sure Topstitch: To sew a row of
the nap is flowing the correct direction to lay properly on the finished plush stitching about ¹⁄8 inch from the
and cut only the backing of the fur by carefully snipping it with your scissors seam (or edge of folded fabric
or a razor blade (I prefer using scissors). (The nap is the direction the fur such as binding) on the outer
'grows'/ 'flows'.) This will help keep the fur from being blunt cut and will reduce side of the fabric.
how much fur is shed from the fabric. Ladder stitch: An embroidery
stitch in which thread crossbars
are created at equal distances
between two solid ridges of
raised work, then pulled tight to
‘disappear’ into the project and
connect one fabric to another.
Clipped Curves: Cutting or

notching the fabric of the seam
5. If applying any designs for applique, cut the designs from fabric and put allowance at even intervals
them in place using a temporary hold spray fabric adhesive or lightweight along a curved seam (on what
iron-on adhesive. Appliqué the designs prior to assembling your animal. will be the inside of the animal)
while being careful not to cut
6. Use a ¼ inch seam allowance unless otherwise noted. Double stitching is
into the seam. This is imperative
recommended. Seam allowance is included on all templates. to the final shape of the plush,
allowing ease in the seam
allowance portion of the fabric
along the inside of a curved
seam.
Construction & Assembly
Hoof and Leg Selection: Prior to cutting out your 2. Split Leg Color
fabric you'll want to decide what type of hooves
If you opted for the split leg color, sew the leg pieces
you want on your giraffe. I have included two hoof
together by alighning the top portion and bottom
styles: round and cloven. The cloven hoof is more
portion of one leg panel right sides together at the
suitable for an intermediate sewist, while the round
straight edge indicated on the pattern pieces. Pin
hoof is easier to make. The round hoof option will be
together and sew with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
demonstrated in this tutorial on the horse rather than
Repeat with the other 7 panel sets.
on the giraffe.
You'll also want to decide if you want a split leg color

or a solid leg color and follow the directions on the
templates for the option you choose. The split leg
color is the one pictured with giraffe print at the top
of the legs and a solid color for the bottom ¾ of the
legs.
1. Applique
If you are applying any markings to your giraffe,
now is the time to applique them in place. I don’t
recommend using an iron-on adhesive for any large
markings on the body as it inhibits the stretch of the
material. A repositionable spray adhesive or pinning
in place works well. Below is an example of the ear
applique and how I took the fabric piece out of a
larger piece of printed fabric.
3. Sew Legs (arms) & Hooves
Step 1: If you're making

your giraffe with a cloven
hoof, first sew each half
cloven hoof panel together
with another mirrored
cloven hoof panel to create
a full cloven hoof panel.
Place right sides together and sew only on the long
straight edge (the center of the hoof).
TIP: I recommend stitching all seams at least twice

for durability. Use matching thread for the most
professional finished look since the thread may show
at the seams at times depending on the fabric used!
Step 2: Sew the hoof side to the leg by placing the
straight top edge of the hoof side right sides together
with the wide straight end of the leg and sew along
the straight edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Repeat with the other 7 leg and hoof piece side sets.
The process is the same whether sewing the cloven or
round hoof. Just remember for each leg/arm there is
one side that is cloven and one side that is not.
Step 4: Attach the hoof bottom to the hoof sides. First

line up the notches on the hoof bottom with the seams
on the hoof sides. For the cloven hoof, also pin the
Step 3: Sew each leg together by placing the set of center seam on the cloven hoof panel to the indented
pieces for each leg right sides together. First line up point on the cloven hoof bottom. Then pin the rest of
at the seam where the hoof side meets the leg then the fabric together around the circle. Sew from one
pin in place along the rest of the leg. Sew the leg side seam to the other side seam using a ¼ inch seam
using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Leave an opening allowance. Don’t sew over the hoof side seams. Stop
between the notches on the leg and leave the top of the stitch and restart it sewing the other half of the
the leg open. For best results when stuffing, don’t hoof bottom from one side seam to the other side seam.
sew over the seam where the leg meets the hoof, Take it slow around the small curves of the cloven
stop the stitch and restart it on the other side of the hoof and be sure to sew a deep "V" at the center of
seam. Then sew the hoof sides together from the the cloven hoof.Clip the curves. Repeat with the other
seam where the hoof and leg meet to the end of the three legs.
hoof. Leave the bottom curved edge open. Repeat
with the other three legs. (shown in the round hoof
option, the process is the same on the cloven hoof).
4. Sew Muzzle
Step 1: (optional) Sew the nostril flap by placing
the fabric right sides together. The fabric pieces
should be oversized compared to the template piece
as instructed on the pattern template. Trace the
template piece on the wrong side of one of the fabric
pieces. Sew directly on top of the drawn line and
leave the top straight edge open. Trim the fabric to
about 1/8 inch seam allowance. Turn right side out.
Baste stitch the straight open edge closed using a
TIP: For best results on your finished cloven hooves,
1/8 inch seam allowance. Yep, they kind of look like
be sure to clip as close to the seam in the "V" as
underwear.
possible without clipping through the seam.
Step 5: Turn the leg right side out. Baste stitch across
the top open end of the leg using a scant ¼ inch seam
allowance. Repeat with the other 3 legs. Leave the
side opening open and set aside until step 7. Step 2: Baste
stitch the
nostril panel
to one of the
muzzel panels
across the top
straight edge
to anchor it
in place. Use
a scant 1/8
inch seam
CHECKPOINT:
allowance.
This is how
your legs
should
generally look
at this point.
Step 3: Sew the muzzle panels together. Place Step 2: Fold the top side toward the middle as indicated
the muzzle panel with the nostril flap right sides on the fold lines on the pattern template. Baste stitch in
together with the other muzzle panel. Line up the place with a 1/8 inch seam allowance. Repeat with the
two corners and the point first then pin the rest in other ear. Ensure the ears are mirrored to each other.
place. Sew using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving
the top straight edge open. Clip the curves and turn
right side out.
Step 3: Line up the raw straight edge of the ear with

the ear notches on the face piece. The correct ear for
each head side will be angled toward the top edge of the
face piece. Baste stitch in place using a 1/8 inch seam
allowance. Repeat with the other face piece and ear.
5. Ear Construction and Placement

Step 1: Place the inner ear piece right sides together
with the outer ear piece; pin in place and sew using a
¼ inch seam allowance. Leave the bottom edge open
as indicated on the template piece. Clip the curves and
turn right side out. Repeat with the other ear. You may
opt to add a medium to heavy fusible interfacing layer
on each ear to make it more rigid.
6. Attach Gusset to Face Sides Step 1: Place two horn panels right sides together,
align and pin in place. Sew together with a scant 1/4
Step 1: Pin the face gusset to one face panel. Pin inch seam allowance leaving the bottom open and
first at each corner then pin the middle in place. Sew the space between the two notches marked on the
together using a ¼ inch seam allowance. template. Clip the curves and turn right side out.
Repeat with the second horn.
Step 2: Repeat with the other

face panel.
7. Sew and Attach Horns
Applique Tip: (optional) If you'd like to make the tip of Step 2: Attach the horns to the face piece. Place
the horn a different color or perhaps furry by using what will be the inside corner of each horn adjacent
a more fury fabric than the rest of the giraffe, than to the center notch on the face gusset. The other
you'll want to follow this step. Place the oversized tip corner of the horn should end up sitting right next
piece right sides together onto the horn. The horn to the ear. Baste stitch in place using a 1/8 inch seam
tip will be upside down. Align the notches on the allowance. You will stuff them later, stuffing them
horn and the notches on the horn tip to align the now makes sewing the head too bulky and creates
tip and sew a straight stitch across from one notch an unneccesary challenge.
to the other. Flip the horn tip up so the right side is
facing up. Use a scant 1/8 inch seam allowance and
baste stitch the tip to the horn. Trim the excess fabric.
Repeat with the other horn tips.
8. Sew Chin
Step 1: Fold the face piece right sides together and

align the throat/chin area. Pin in place and sew only
along this short curved edge.
CHECK POINT: Your giraffe's face should look

something like this at this point (the bottom and back
9. Apply Muzzle to Face should be open)..
Step 1: The muzzle should be right side out and the

face piece should be wrong side out. Point the tip
of the muzzle in toward the face piece at the fold
on the front of the face. Make sure the nostril flap
is pointed upward toward the gusset. If you aren't
using a nostril flap, it won't matter which side is
facing up. Push the muzzle into the inside of the face
piece and align the raw edges of the muzzle with the
10. Apply the Mane
raw edges of the opening in the face. To make sure
it is centered, first pin the center of the top of the What material? First, you have to decide what
muzzle with the center of the gusset and the center material you'd like to use for the mane. I will show
of the bottom muzzle with the chin seam, then pin you how to make a mane with yarn, faux fur and a
the remaing raw edges together. Ease in the fabric knit fabric. Skip ahead in the instructions below to
where necessary. the material you are using.
Yarn Mane Option Step 4: Make sure there is about a ½inch of fabric
before the yarn starts at the
Step 1: Create bundles of yarn by using your fingers top of the head and about a
as a loom (alternatively you may use a piece of ½ inch of fabric after the
cardboard, book, etc). Wrap about 25 times around yarn ends at the base of the
your stretched fingers. Hold the bundle of yarn at its neck. Pin in place. This will
center and clip one end. be bulky. Sew along the
curved edge using a ¼ inch
seam allowance. Leave the
front and bottom edges
open.
Step 2: Stretch the bundle out and place it under the

foot of your sewing machine at the middle point of
the length. Sew directly over the yarn 2-3 times.
Then fold the bundle in half at the middle point and
sew over the top 1/8 inch 2-3 times. Repeat 3 or 4
times to create enough mane for your giraffe.
Step 5: Trim the yarn to the length you desire.
Faux Fur Mane Option

Step 1: Use the mane template and cut two pieces
from faux fur, I prefer the minky shag as it is light
and flexible compared to other long pile faux furs.
Be sure to watch the nap direction so your mane is
flowing in the correct manner.
Step 3: Place the sewn

bundles on the curved edge
of the back of the head
piece.
Step 2: Place the two pieces right sides together. Step 4: Place the opposite head panel over top and
Begin pinning the top side. The fur nap should be align it to the other head panel. Pin in place. Sew
pointed toward the top side and therfore sticking out using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Sew only the
as you try to pin this piece together. Tuck in the fur curved portion with the mane, leaving the bottom
as you go. Sew onlty the top and sides with a ¼ inch and front edges open. Clip the curved edge and turn
seam allowance. Turn right side out and pull any right side out.
tucked in fur from the seam with the tip of a straight
pin, etc. Baste stitch the bottom raw edge closed..
Knit Mane Option
Step 1: Cut the knit fabric using the mane template

as a guide. You can use 2 or more layers. Cut small
Step 3: Place the faux fur mane strip on the curved strips into each knit panel. They don't have to be
side of one of the back of the head panels. Align the perfect to look good. I made my fringes about 1/8 of
raw edge of the fur strip with the raw edge on the an inch wide.
head so that the mane is laying on the right side
of the fabric. Pin in place to hold before adding the
opposite head panel (trust me, it helps).
Step 2: Baste stitch the panels together along the
uncut edges to hold them in place while you arrange
and attach them to the head. Then lay the fringed
panels on one of the back of the head panels,
aligning the raw uncut edge with the raw edge of
the curved back of the head. Place the opposite head
panel on top, align and pin in place. Sew together
only along the curved edge with a ¼ inch seam
allowance. Leave the bottom and front edges open.
Turn right side out.
Step 2: Create a bundle of

yarn as instructed in the
steps for making a yarn
mane.Then stretch the tail
bundle out and place the
stitch on the tail bundle
along the bottom edge of
the giraffe tail. Comb the
yarn up so it sandwiches
the tail and sew along the
top 1/4 inch edge of the yarn making sure you are
also sewing along the giraffe tail to attach it. Comb
the yarn down off of the tail and topstitch across the
yarn about 1/8 inch from the top edge of the yarn.
This will hold the yarn down so it hangs properly.
11. Create the Tail
Trim as desired. You may opt to sew the yarn
What Material? As with the mane, you'll want to into the seam during the construction of the tail,
decide on what material to use for the tip of the tail. however, I find it can be a bulky process..
I generally match it to the material I used for the
mane, but maybe in a different color.
Yarn Tail Tip Option
Step 1: Sew the two panels of the tail together by

alighning them right sides together. Pin and sew
using a scant 1/4 inch seam allowance. Sew from one
corner of the wide end around the bottom and back
to the other corner of the wide end, leaving the wide
end open. Turn right side out..
Faux Fur Tail Tip Option Knit Tail Tip Option
Step 1: Cut the tip of the tail from fur following the Step 1: Cut the tip of the tail from the knit fabric.
nap flow direction indicated on the pattern template. Cut 2 or more layers. Place the right side of the tail
Place the tail tip right sides together with the tail tip to the right side of the tail panel at the narrow
and align the narrow straight edge of the tail with end. Align the flat edge of the tail tip panel with the
the straigh edge of the tail tip. Sew together with a narrow end of the tail panel. Sew together using a ¼
¼ inch seam allowance. Repeat with the other tail inch seam allowance. Repeat with the other side (if
panel and tip.. using more than 2 layers for the tail tip, simply stack
them and sew to the tail panel).
Step 2: Sew together the tail panels only. Sew a ¼

inch seam allowance along both long sides of the
tail panel. Stop at the tail tip. There should be an
opening at the top of the tail panel and at the narrow
end of the tail panel where the tail tip is connected.
Step 2: Align the two tail panels right side together.
Turn right side out. Topstitch across the top of the
Carefully pin the tail tip by tucking in the fur fibers
narrow end of the tail to close. Also top stitch across
as you pin, making sure they are tucked to the inside
the wide end of the tail to close. Cut the tail itip nto
the best you can. Sew using a scant ¼ inch seam
small strips to fringe.
allowance. Leave the top flat edge open for turning.
Turn the tail right side out (a chopstick is a handy
turning tool). Pic the fur fibers from the seam, comb
and trim the tail tip fur as desired.
12. Attach Face & Legs to Front Body Panel Step 3: Baste stitch the rear legs to the front body
panel. Place the top raw edge of the rear leg right
Step 1: Sew the face to the front sides together with the front body panel between
body panel. Align the bottom one set of leg notches. Watch the direction of the
raw edge of the face with the top cloven hooves. Baste stitch in place using a 1/8 inch
raw edge of the front body panel, seam allowance. Repeat with the other leg and
the top of the front body panel is opposite set of leg notches.
curved. Sew using a ¼ inch seam
allowance.
13. Attach Back of Head & Tail to Body

Step 2: Baste stitch the top raw edge of the arm/
front leg to the front body panel. Align the top raw Step 1: Align the bottom edge of the back of the
edge of the arm to the front body panel by centering head with the top straight edge of the back body
it over the arm notch, right sides together and baste panel. Pin together and sew using a 1/4 inch seam
stitch. Repeat with the other arm on the opposite arm allowance
notch. If you made your giraffe with round hooves,
the direciton is irrelevant. However, if you made your
giraffe with cloven hooves, you'll want to be mindful
of how you attach the arms on. I like to place mine
with the cloven side facing up when the arm is laying
across the body. No matter you decide to place it, just
make sure you place them both the same direction.
CHECK POINT: This is generally how the full front

& back sides of your giraffe should look at this point.
14. Connect Front Body Panel and Back 15. Attach the Bum
Body Panel Step 1: Tuck everything inside the body so no tail, legs
Tuck in the arms and place the full front body panel or hooves are sticking out. Line up the side notches
and the full back body panel right sides together. on the bum piece with the side seams where the
Line up and pin the neck seams, head seam, arm body panels meet. Then line up the center notch on
notches and bottom corners first. Then pin the rest the bum with the center of the front body panel, the
of the edges together, except the bottom edge. Sew middle point between the rear legs. Lastly, line up the
together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance, leave the square back notches on the bum with the square back
bottom open. notches on the back body panel. After these locations
are lined up and pinned, pin the rest of the edges
together. Leave the space between the two square
back notches open for turning and stuffing.
CHECK POINT: This is how your inside out giraffe

should generally look at this point. Step 2: Sew using a 1/4
inch seam allowance. Clip
the curves and turn right
side out. It will get bulky
to turn the head through
the neck, work it gently
pulling the ears and yarn
through and the rest should easily turn.
17. Stuff & Close
Dowel Option: If you'd like to give more support to

the neck, you may add a dowel, specifications noted
in materials section. This is best done after the head
and about half of the neck have been stuffed. Then
press and twist the dowel into the head leaving
about an inch or more of stuffing padded between
the dowel and the top of the head. Continue to stuff
CHECKPOINT: This is generally how your giraffe the giraffe, moving around the dowel as needed.
should look at this point.
Step 1: Stuff the head and neck firmly and stuff

the body to a medium firmness. Stitch the opening
closed using a ladder stitch. As the opening gets
smaller, tuck small bits of fiber filling inside to round
out the shape. (Not sure how to ladder stitch? See
16. Apply Eyes
the Ladder Stitch Tutorial on page 20.)
Use an awl to carefully poke a hole at the marked
eye location on each side of the face. Be careful not
to poke through any other locations on the fabric
by angling the awl downward and guided between
two fingers; be careful not to poke yourself. Push
the shank of the eye through the hole and push the
washer snugly over the shank on the inside of the
giraffe's head. Repeat with the other eye.
CHECKPOINT: This is generally how your giraffe Step 2: Sew directly on top of the drawn line (as done
should look at this point (except the legs/arms should with the nostril flap).
also be stuffed).
Step 3: Trim the excess fabric away to approximately
1/8 inch seam allowance.
Step 4: Pull the fabric

panels apart from each
other and cut a slit in the
back fabric panel only
and turn the eyelid right
side out.
Step 2: Stuff the arms and legs. When stuffing the

feet, especially the cloven hooves, be sure to stuff
them firmly. Shape out each point on the cloven hoof
by carefully working the fiber filling snugly in until
it is firmly filled and has the fullness of the shape.
Close each leg/arm with a ladder stitch.
Step 5: (optional) Add eyelashes.
False Eyelash Method: Use a conservative amount

of hot glue on the back of the folded edge. Carefully
apply the eyelashes by placing the top binding strip
Step 3: Stuff each horn. Use a stuffing tool such as that holds the lashes together onto the hot glue.
forceps or just a simple wooden fast food chopstick
to help you push stuffing tightly into these small
pieces. Use a ladder stitch to close. (Optional) You can
also stabalize each horn using a ladder stitch around
the base of each horn to made it less floppy..
Doll Eyelash Method: Cut the lashes to a length that
fits inside the folded length of the eyelid. Whip stitch
the lashes in place, ensuring you only stitch through
the back piece of fabric (you can push the needle
through the plastic on the lashes).
19. Sew and Attach Eyelids
Step 1: Draw the eyelid onto

your fabric at the fold and pin
in place to hold.
Step 6: Pin the eyelids in place over each eye. Play
with the angle and eye coverage to see what you like
best. The angle and coverage of the lid can alter the
expression of the giraffe Ladder stitch the eyelids in
place by stitching around the curved edge.
Step 2: Place the belly applique on the tummy of the

giraffe where you like the look the best. Pin in place.
Use a ladder stitch to attach the belly applique to the
giraffe, the same process as performed on the eyelid.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Optional Belly Applique: This is a darling
embelishment to add more detail to your giraffe
should you decide to apply it. It could be applied
by machine prior to constructing your giraffe. I'll
demonstrate the method of hand applique after the
giraffe is stuffed.
Step 1: Lay the two belly applique panels right sides Tack the Nostril Flap: That little flap has been
together, align the eges and pin in place. Sew all the waving in the wind, it's time to anchor it down. Push
way around using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Clip the end of the flap up on the muzzle to where you'd
the curves and cut a slit in one panel as you did on like the look of the nostrils (pulled flush against the
the eyelid and turn right side out.. muzzle or arched up a little for some flair). Ladder
stitch the end of the nostril flap to the muzzle.
Pick the seams: Fur tends to get caught in the seams, Step 1: Use a long piece of thread and fold it in half.
even if it is a short pile such as smooth minky. Insert the two ends of the thread through the eye of
Take the tip of a straight pin and pick the fur out of the needle. Secure the thread to the fabric in the
the seams. This doesn’t take too long and makes a location you want to place the applique item (or start
difference in the finished look of your giraffe. the closure of an opening) by inserting the needle
through a small section of
fabric and pulling the
thread through almost to
the end leaving a small
loop exposed. Insert the
needle into the loop and
pull the thread through.
Your thread is now connected to the fabric.
Step 2: Insert your needle into the edge of the item

to be appliqued, just above the seam if there is one.
COLOR YOUR EYES! Bring your needle back out just a very short distance
THE POSSIBILITIES ARE ENDLESS! away from where you entered and insert your needle
straight down into the other fabric. You’ll go back and
You are certainly not limited to the small selection
forth in this manner creating ‘rungs’ (like a ladder).
of standard color options. Grab a pair of clear safety
eyes (pupil is colored black already).
Step 1: Paint the flat back side of the eye with a layer
of clear nail polish and allow to dry.
Step 2: Paint 2-3 coats of desired color in either acrylic

paints or nail polish. Allow to dry between coats. If
you’d like a glitter shimmer, or dots, etc, apply it first Step 3: Pull tight after
after step 1 then add a coat or two of solid color. several stitches and
continue stitching.
Step 3: Seal the paint with a coat of clear nail polish.
Allow the paint to completely dry and set before Step 4: Once you reach
applying to your plush. I like to let them sit at least the end of what you’re
overnight before I use them. stitching, tie a knot as
discreetly as possible,
preferably near a seam or
where the two objects
meet so the knot can be
tucked inside. Insert your
needle at the location of
the knot and pull the
HOW TO LADDER STITCH: needle through a couple
of inches away. This will
Whether you’re closing an opening in a plush critter
tuck the tail end of the
or hand appliqueing something such as nostrils in
thread inside your object.
place, the ladder stitch technique is the same and
Trim the excess thread
provides a ‘hidden stitch’.
flush with the fabric and
you’re done!
What's Next?
Check out the Rustic Horseshoe website! You'll find
free tutorials for different fun variations including an
applique eye pattern to make your eyes from fabric
rather than use the plastic safety eyes.
You'll also find

free tutorials
and templates
to make your
giraffe a
bandana or a
dress! Have some
fun
Check out these and more on the

Rustic Horseshoe website
Inspiration
Find more inspiration on Instagram!
Share your photos and use the hashtag
#MadeWithRusticHorseshoe
Copyright and Terms of Use
I draft my patterns by hand and put each one through a trial, error and correction process until I reach my
end design. Many hours of meticulous work go into developing my patterns and writing my tutorials. I am
very grateful for your honesty and respect of my copyright.
WHAT YOU CAN DO: WHAT YOU CANNOT DO:

• Make as many as you like. • You may not reproduce, share, distribute or sell
this pattern/tutorial for any purpose in part or in
• Sell items you make using this pattern/tutorial on
whole by any means; including but not limited to
a small business scale, please credit the designer
electronic methods (i.e. e-mail, etc) or hardcopy
(outlined below).
methods (i.e. printed, etc).
• Make your own alterations for your finished item.
• You may not make and sell items using this
design/pattern/tutorial on a large commercial scale
All content, including photos, are copyright protected.
How to credit the designer on items for sale What if I altered the pattern and am selling
I am honored if my design aids you in your creation my finished product?
of handcrafted items in which you sell in order to You may make alterations to this pattern; however,
make a profit to provide income for yourself. Not you still must note on a hang tag that it is made
only am I excited about that, I encourage it when using a Rustic Horseshoe original design or an
honesty is at the forefront! My designs are intended altered Rustic Horseshoe original design. Altering
for use by home crafters and individual small your creation does not circumvent my copyright in
business owners only and cannot be made on a mass any manner.
produced large commercial scale.
CONTACT ME
The responsibility lies with you to follow any laws
regarding age-related safety protocols for the
construction and labeling of any items made by you Rena Dearden
and sold using this tutorial as craftsmanship and PO Box 33 Cornville, AZ 86325
material choices vary. 928-300-8335
Please give credit where credit is due as follows: RusticHorseshoe@live.com
Please note on a removable hang tag that this item RusticHorseshoe.com

is “handmade by {you} using a Rustic Horseshoe RusticHorseshoe.Etsy.com
original design”.
I have provided Facebook.com/RusticHorseshoe
Handmade by me
a basic printable Instagram.com/RusticHorseshoe
tag here and you Designed
by Pinterest.com/RusticHorse
can download
a full page of
tags on my
website for your
convenience.
Resources
Trims & Fabric: Awl:
Obviously the choice is yours. I prefer to use smooth, This is similar to an ice pick. This tool is needed for
dot or swirl/rose minky. Other fabrics which work the application of the safety bolted eyes. You may
well are quality quilting fabrics, corduroy, faux furs find awls of different sizes in a variety of stores.
and fleece. Shannon Fabrics Cuddle® minky is super Here is one source on Amazon.*
soft and my most favorite to work with for plushies.
A variety of fabrics can be found at www.Fabric. 20mm Safety Eyes:
com*. Find a variety of colors on Amazon here:
brown, black and clear
Occasionally you can find this size in a local craft store
Yarn:
such as JoAnn Fabrics, Hobby Lobby or Michaels.
There is such wonderful variety of yarns available
to inspire your creativity! I most often use Caron 30mm Safety Eyes:
Simply Soft® yarns for my Nutty Nags and if I go This is the size shown in this tutorial. You can find
with a chunky yarn I most often use Lion Brand them on Amazon.com or www.Etsy.com/6060
"Thick and Quick"® yarns. These can be found at
JoAnn Fabrics, Hobby Lobby, Michaels, Walmart
and other locations where yarns are sold.
Dowels:
Craft stores or hardware Stores
Fiber Filling:
You can use whatever fill you’d like. I prefer Fairfield's
Poly-Fil Fiber.
Amazon*
JoAnn Fabrics
Walmart
Are you new to sewing?

There are many online sewing resources, one I like is
www.SewMamaSew.com
Don't forget to check out my website for

Free Mini Tutorials and more projects!
https://RusticHorseshoe.com
*Disclaimer: These products may contain affiliate links.
One Piece Arm Option
Cut 4 Fabric - mirrored
LENGTHWISE GRAIN
Join to Hoof
LOUNGING
DIRECTION
Giraffe Doll
Join to Body
LEAFER
NAP
Open
Leave
Cut 4 Fabric- mirrored

Split Arm Option
Bottom Portion
Join Arm Top Portion
LENGTHWISE GRAIN
Leave Open
Leave Bottom Open
Applique Notches
LOUNGING
Giraffe Doll
Cut 4 fabric - mirrored
Join Hoof
LEAFER
LOUNGING
Giraffe Doll
LEAFER
Horn
Leave O
pen
Join to Body
NAP LOUNGING
DIRECTION LEAFER
LOUNGING Giraffe Doll
LEAFER Split Arm Option

Side
Giraffe Doll Side
Top Portion
Cut Cut 4 Fabric - mirrored
Seam Seam
Join to Arm Bottom
Leg Hoof Bottom
Round Hoof Option
Cut 2 Fabric
LENGTHWISE GRAIN 1" test
square
Join Hoof Join to Body
LENGTHWISE GRAIN

Bottom Portion
NAP
Split Leg Option DIRECTION
Giraffe Doll
Leav
LEAFER
LOUNGING
eO
Leave
pen
LOUNGING
Open
LEAFER
Giraffe Doll
Join Leg Top Portion
One Piece Leg Option
LENGTHWISE GRAIN
Join Hoof
Join to Body
LOUNGING
LOUNGING NAP LEAFER
LEAFER DIRECTION
Giraffe Doll
Side
Giraffe Doll Side
Seam Seam Split Leg Option
Arm Hoof Bottom
Round Hoof Option Top Portion
Cut 2 Fabric Cut 4- mirrored
LENGTHWISE GRAIN LENGTHWISE GRAIN
Join to Leg Bottom 1" test

square
Si am
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Cut 2 Fabric for

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Join to Arm
LOUNGING
LEAFER
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Giraffe Doll
Arm Hoof Back/Wall

Cut 2 Fabric for Cleft Hoof Option
or
Cut 4 Fabric for Round Hoof Option
LENGTHWISE GRAIN
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HW
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LOUNGING
LEAFER
Tail Tip
Fabric or Fur Giraffe Doll
Nap
Direction FRONT Body Panel
Cut 1 on the Fold
1" test Leg Notches

square
1" test
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LENGTHWISE GRAIN
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Leave Open
Ear Applique LOUNGING
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lap F
Nostril
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Attach M Center Top
LENGTHWISE GRAIN
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LOUNGING
Rustic Horseshoe, LLC Copyright 2009-2019 All rights reserved

LEAFER
NAP
Giraffe Doll
d
D IR E C T IO
Face Gusset
Cut 1 Fabric
Fold
Eyelid
DIRECTION
NAP
Cut 2 on Fold
Open
NAP
LEAFER
Cut 2 Fabric
Giraffe Doll
LOUNGING DIRECTION
Face Side
Eye Placement
Tail
Cut 2 Fabric - mirrore
Giraffe Doll
IS E G R A IN
LENGTHW LEAFER
Leave Bottom
LOUNGING
1" test
square
Ear Notches Top Center
Lounging Leafer Giraffe Doll Tutorial • 30

LOUNGING
LEAFER
Giraffe Doll
Belly Applique
Optional
Cut 2 Fabric NAP
DIRECTION
LENGTHWISE GRAIN
1" test
square

Lounging Leafer Giraffe Doll

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Copyright:

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Lounging Leafer Giraffe Doll

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Lounging

Rustic Horseshoe, LLC

ABBREVIATED SUPPLY LIST:

~ ¼ yard minky for hooves (alternative fabrics: quality

The Giraffe is approximately 23 inches from the bottom of the hoof

~ ¼ yard minky for hooves (alternative fabrics:

~ ¼ yard minky for markings and muzzle

~ ¼ skein yarn or a 10 inch by 10 inch piece of

Scrap of iron-on adhesive (such as HeatnBond

*Disclaimer: These products may contain affiliate links.

3. Iron fabric pieces, excluding any fabrics you Applique: Ornamentation, as a

Clipped Curves: Cutting or

You'll also want to decide if you want a split leg color

3. Sew Legs (arms) & Hooves

Step 1: If you're making

TIP: I recommend stitching all seams at least twice

Step 4: Attach the hoof bottom to the hoof sides. First

Step 3: Line up the raw straight edge of the ear with

5. Ear Construction and Placement

Step 2: Repeat with the other

7. Sew and Attach Horns

Step 1: Fold the face piece right sides together and

CHECK POINT: Your giraffe's face should look

Step 1: The muzzle should be right side out and the

Step 2: Stretch the bundle out and place it under the

Step 5: Trim the yarn to the length you desire.

Faux Fur Mane Option

Step 3: Place the sewn

Knit Mane Option

Step 1: Cut the knit fabric using the mane template

Step 2: Create a bundle of

Yarn Tail Tip Option

Step 1: Sew the two panels of the tail together by

Step 2: Sew together the tail panels only. Sew a ¼

13. Attach Back of Head & Tail to Body

CHECK POINT: This is generally how the full front

CHECK POINT: This is how your inside out giraffe

Dowel Option: If you'd like to give more support to

Step 1: Stuff the head and neck firmly and stuff

Step 4: Pull the fabric

Step 2: Stuff the arms and legs. When stuffing the

Step 5: (optional) Add eyelashes.

False Eyelash Method: Use a conservative amount

19. Sew and Attach Eyelids

Step 1: Draw the eyelid onto

Step 2: Place the belly applique on the tummy of the

Step 2: Insert your needle into the edge of the item

Step 2: Paint 2-3 coats of desired color in either acrylic

You'll also find

Check out these and more on the

WHAT YOU CAN DO: WHAT YOU CANNOT DO:

All content, including photos, are copyright protected.

Please give credit where credit is due as follows: RusticHorseshoe@live.com

Please note on a removable hang tag that this item RusticHorseshoe.com

Are you new to sewing?

Don't forget to check out my website for

Cut 4 Fabric- mirrored

LEAFER Split Arm Option

Cut 4 Fabric - mirrored

Join to Leg Bottom 1" test

Cut 4 Fabric for

Cut 2 Fabric for

Leg Hoof Back/