Luna Artemis Diana Plush Sewing Pattern

Luna
Artemis & Diana

plush
a free sewing pattern by

luna, artemis, & diana plush 2 free sewing tutorial
luna, artemis & diana plush

Fans of Sailor Moon are sure to recognize this adorable
trio! Luna is the steadfast feline friend and guide to
skills used:
Sailor Moon, while Artemis watches over Sailor Venus. • Fusible web applique
Meanwhile the last in the trio is their adorable daughter, • Curved sewing
Diana. They all share a cute sitting kitty pose with • Darts
arms held out on front and two tiny feet beneath their • Ladder stitch
haunches. They have tall perky ears and a small smile • Matching notches and points
with big expressive eyes. • Gathering, gathering stitch
• Basting
difficulty: • Sewing tiny pieces
makes:
The most difficult part of this plush is likely the forehead
and nose as well as the tricky curves in the legs. You'll Luna & Artemis: about 8" tall
want to sew one section at a time so you can focus better from bottom of body to top of
(as the instructions will show). head, 5" wide from each side of
legs, and 4" long from front of
arms to back of body.
Diana: about 7" tall from bottom
of body to top of head, 4½" wide
from each side of legs, and 3½"
long from front of arms to back of
body.
very Diana is
tiny about 1"
nose shorter
tail is
attached
by hand
feet are
attached
by hand
sew desu ne?

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// ©2023 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
materials & tools:

• ¼ yd. of fabric for main body (purple, lavender, or white)
• 1/8 yd. or 9" x 4" of pink fabric for inner ears
• 3" x 3" of white applique fabric for eye whites & eye shines
• 3" x 3" of dark red, dark blue, or dark pink applique fabric for eyes
• 2" x 2" of red, blue, or pink applique fabric for eye highlights
• 3" x 3" of black applique fabric for eyelids, eyebrows, and mouth
• 2" x 2" of pink applique fabric for nose
• 2" x 2" of yellow applique fabric for moon
• 6" x 6" of light or heavy duty fusible web
• sewing thread to match main fabric and applique fabrics
• poly-fil stuffing
• basic sewing tools (sewing machine, scissors, iron, needles, pins, fabric marker, seam
ripper)
fusible web: applique fabrics:

lightweight
• Fusible web adhesive is fusible
• Good applique fabrics
a sheet of adhesive with include flannel, cotton,
a paper backing. felt, minky, and fleece.
Not to be confused with • Flannel and cotton
fusible interfacing, are best for detailed
which is adhesive applique with a lot of
attached to a fabric/fiber layers because they’re
backing. thinner. Meanwhile
• Some common brands felt, minky, and fleece
are Pellon & HeatnBond heavyweight are better for simpler
• In countries outside the fusible applique like body
US, it may also be known markings.
as bondaweb • Flannel is used in the
• It comes in light and example instructions
heavy duty varieties. (page 7).
Lightweight strength
is meant for applique
you intend to sew later.
Heavy duty versions are
for a no-sew bond. If you
try to sew them later
your machine might
have trouble penetrating
the glue.
sew desu ne?

fa bric com p a r is on:
fe lt cotton j e r s ey f le e ce m i nky
suggested fabrics:
long pile minky
minky or fleece
Medium weight, plush fabrics with about
minky 20%-30% stretch along the crosswise grain work
best for this project. The varieties shown to the left
are some good options and names to look for. Try
cuddle fleece to avoid heavyweight versions of fleece that are
intended for outdoor apparel or they may cause
trouble for the detailed areas.
You can also use non-stretch fabrics (such as felt),
micro fleece but be aware that the curves will be more difficult
to sew and the result will look different. The plush
will become more elongated and the edges will
anti-pill fleece look sharper.
10" of minky
stretches to 13"
= 30% stretch
fleece
minky vs. felt
sew desu ne?

printing the pattern:

Set your computer to print
pages 24-29.
If you’re unfamiliar with
printing and assembling a
.pdf pattern, read the steps to
follow.
For the best results, use
a .pdf reader like Adobe
Reader. That's what is 1 2
shown here and will give you At the print dialog box, check Print the pages needed for
the most control over the the box that says print at the file. You might have one
settings. “Actual Size” or 100%. Any or more. Either way, be sure
other selection (such as “Fit to you have the full collection by
page”) will distort the pattern noting the page numbers in the
so it’s slightly larger or smaller corner.
and we don’t want that.
3 4 5
It’s likely your printer will have To line up the pattern pages, You can trace the patterns onto
a margin that ensures your match up the corresponding a different paper, or you can
image doesn’t print to the very diamond shapes. Each diamond also just cut them straight from
edge. Assembly will be easier if will have a letter, so it’s simply the printer paper -- be sure
you trim off this blank margin a matter of matching A1 to A2, that each piece is fully taped
edge. This will give you pages B3 to B4 and so on. The faint together along the joins so they
that overlap slightly during gray lines indicate the border of don’t fall apart when you cut
assembly. If you trim across the every page, you should be able them.
gray outline boxes, this will give to line those up as well. When
you pages that don’t overlap the diamond goes together,
but rather butt against each tape it in place.
other.
If you have many pages, it’s
easier to tape up the pages into
rows first. Then tape the rows
together into a full block.
sew desu ne?

cutting the fabric:
1 2 3 4
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, use Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake the
and make sure the stretch pattern weights, or trace the template, cut out the fabric. excess fuzz away.
line matches the stretch outline of the pattern with a Cut the required amount
of the fabric. The nap line washable marker. according to the pattern.
should go in the direction of
the fur.
cutting layout:
luna or artemis:
STRE TCH
main body fabric inner ear fabric
¼ yd.; 9” long
1/8 yd.
A3 A3
NAP
A1 B4 B1
A4 A4
NAP
B7 B7 B5 B5
9" wide
B3 A2
A3 A3 B2 B2
B6 B6 B6 B6
37" wide
diana:
STRE TCH
main body fabric inner ear fabric
A2
¼ yd.; 9” long
1/8 yd.
C6
A3 A3
NAP
A1 C4
A4 A4 C7
C7 C5
NAP
9" wide
C3
C1 C2 C6 C6 C6 C5
A3 A3
C2
33" wide
sew desu ne?

before you begin:

• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or
wait until the applicable step before transferring.
• Note that a ¼" seam allowance is used throughout the project, which is included in the
pattern templates.
trace onto fuse to hold applique while

paper side applique fabric pulling paper away
a. b. c.
1. prepare the face applique
a. Grab your fusible web and applique templates. Trace the pieces for the face. You should have:
• eye whites (2, white) • eyes (2, accent color) • eye highlights (2, accent color)
• eye shines (4, white) • eyelids (2, black) • eyebrows (2, black)
• mouth (1, black) • nose (1, pink) • moon (1, yellow)
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the fusible web onto the applique fabrics.
c. Cut out your applique pieces and grab your head front piece (A1). Grab your eye white piece.
Set your paper pattern on top of the head front piece. Align the applique piece on top where the
placement markings are. Next, carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique piece
in place.
d. Fuse the applique pieces
with your iron. Use a press
add eye add eyes & eye
whites first highlights next cloth, such as a scrap piece of
cotton. This will help protect
any polyester or fuzzy fabrics
from melting or scorching.
e. Continue adding the next
pieces; the eyes and eye
highlights.
d. e.
sew desu ne?

add eyelids
add eye & eyebrows add nose
shines next & mouth
2. finish the face applique

a. Continue adding smaller pieces, layering them over the previous ones. Use the paper pattern an
photos as a guide. Next up are the eye shine pieces.
b. Then add the eyelids and eyebrows.
c. Finally, add the nose and mouth.
3. fuse the forehead moon

a. Take this time to also applique your forehead moon applique
fuse moon (A2). Use the same method as the eyes. It will need one moon in
design the center.
b. If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the pieces
fused without sewing, or you can sew them in place a number of
ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here.
→ Refer to the next step for some other applique options.
sew desu ne?

4
2
straight stitch; applique 3
great for felt whipstitch 1
4. other applique options

a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of
the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whipstitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some
matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the
edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique
shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in
from the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape.
Continue this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
trace
seam lines
for darts
darts:
A wedge-shaped gap found in a pattern.
When sewn in fabric, it creates a tuck in
the fabric and develops a 3D shape. The
diagonal sides of the wedge are the legs;
these are matched up and sewn to the
point of the dart.
5. prep the darts

a. Grab your head front piece (A1). This piece has several darts along the bottom. They're labeled on
the paper pattern for extra help, but you'll find they're the small wedge shapes in the stitching line.
b. To sew them, it helps to trace the seam line from the paper pattern. Cut out the darts along the
stitching line and use the paper as a tracing template onto the back of your fabric.
c. For even better results, you can take this time to trace the point of the nose as well.
sew desu ne?

fold along
point of dart
repeat for
blend 3 darts
stitching
into fold
6. sew the bottom darts
a. Take your head front (A1) and fold it so right sides are facing and the lines of one of the darts
match up.
b. Sew the dart by starting at the opening and working your way into the fold of the fabric. Try to blend
your stitching into the fold for a smooth transition and a rounder finish to the plush.
c. Repeat this twice more so you have three darts total along the bottom of the head front.
forehead 1
will join to sew
align from point
head front points
1 1 to 2
1&2
2 2
7. begin the forehead

a. Grab your forehead piece (A2). These piece will be joined between the sides of the head front
(A1). But the pieces are marked with numbered points for extra help with alignment.
b. Start by lining up one side of the head front piece with the forehead so right sides are facing. Make
sure points 1 and 2 match up and line up the raw edges.
c. Sew the head front to the forehead from point 1 to point 2. For best results, stop precisely at point 2
and don't sew any further.
sew desu ne?

a. Grab the other side of your line up the

head front (A1) piece and other side completed
align it with the other side forehead
of the forehead (A2). This
should match up points 1 and
2 once again.
b. Sew the head front to the
forehead from point 1 to
2. You should stop exactly
where you stopped in the
previous step.
8. finish the forehead
fold head sew from the finished

in half along point 2 down nose!
nose & around
nose
9. sew the nose

a. Fold the entire head in half along the nose area. This should line up the short nose area beneath
point 2 at the forehead. Line up the raw edges between point 2 and the tip of the nose.
b. Sew from point 2 at the tip of the nose down to the corner, and curve around the nose. Try to pick up
where you left off in the previous seams so there are no gaps at point 2. Clip the seam allowance at
the corner so it turns nicely.
c. Turn the head right side out and this should create a very tiny little nose.
sew desu ne?

fold
along
fold line
align outer leave turn

fabric with open for right
inner ear
a. b. c. d.
turning side out
fabric
10. sew & baste the ears

a. Grab your ear pieces (A3). Take one from your main fabric and one from your inner ear fabric. Align
them with the right sides facing and the raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the ear pieces together along the long curved edge. Leave the straight edges along the bottom
free for turning the piece right side out later.
c. Turn the ears right side out through the opening you left previously.
d. Fold your ear fabric with the inner ear fabrics facing. Use the fold line found on the paper pattern as
a guide for folding the fabric. The bottom raw edges should line up.
align along top flip inward

of head front and baste
baste to
hold folds
in place
e. f. g.
e. Baste the fold of the ear in place by stitching along the raw edge. This
will hold the fold securely while we continue working with the ears.
f. Grab your head front so far. Take your ears and align them over the
basting:
A form of temporary
outer edge of the head so the inner ear fabric is facing up and the sewing meant to hold
folds are pointing toward the forehead. pieces in place. A long
If you haven't already, note the ear placement lines found on the stitch length is often
paper pattern for the forehead. Align the fold of the ears with these used for this reason.
placement lines so the raw edges match up. The finished result is
not meant to be seen
g. Now flip the ears inward so the inner ear fabric is facing down. Make and sometimes is even
sure the raw edges are aligned and pin the fabrics together. removed later (depending
Baste the ears to the head front to hold them in place for future steps. on your project).
sew desu ne?

inner legs will

join to belly sew from
point 3 to 4
3 3 3
line up points 4 4
3 and 4
11. sew the inner legs

a. Grab your belly (B1 or C1) and inner leg pieces (B2 or C2). These pieces will be joined along the
inner curves, but you'll find there are numbered points for help with alignment as well, points 3 and
4.
b. Align the inner leg with the belly so right sides are facing and points 3 and 4 match up.
c. Sew the inner leg to the belly along the inner curve from points 3 to 4. Repeat with the other inner
leg piece so both are joined.
a. Grab your under arm piece

(B3 or C3). Align it with the
12. attach the under arms sew
from point
top curved edge of your line up under 5 to 5
belly piece (B1 or C1). There arms with belly 5 5
are also numbered points for
help with alignment; point
5. Make sure right sides are
facing, then pin the fabrics
together.
b. Sew the pieces together from
point 5 to point 5.
c. Open up the pieces when
a. b.
complete.
flip to
d. Flip the under arm piece open
other side
around so wrong sides are up arm
pieces
facing. This will prepare the
pieces for attaching to the
outer arms.
c. d.
sew desu ne?
13. attach the outer arms view from outer

arm piece:
line up inner sew
with outer arms from
5 point 5
5
to 5 and
around
arms
trim seam allowance

between arms
a. b. c. d.
a. Grab your outer arm piece (B4 or C4). Align the outer arm with the under arm so right sides are
facing and the raw edges around the arms match up. This should also match up point 5 at the
seams.
b. Sew the pieces together from point 5 to point 5. Sew around both arms. This works easier with the
under arm piece on top.
c. Photo C shows what this might look like with the outer arm piece on top.
d. Trim the excess seam allowance between the arms to reduce bulk and increase flexibilty when the
piece is turned.
14. sew the front neck sew along

open
neck edge
line up center up when
dart with circle complete
head
front
will join
to body
front
a. b. c. d.
a. Grab your head front piece from before as well as your body front so far. The neck edges of both
of these pieces will be joined next. The outer arm neck edge is marked with a circle marking in the
center. This will align with the head front at the bottom center dart.
b. Layer the head front over the body front, matching up the raw edges and the circle marking at the
center. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the head front to the body front along this neck edge.
d. Open up the pieces when complete.
sew desu ne?

fold repeat
along point for both
of dart blend darts
stitching
into fold
15. sew the head back darts

a. Grab your head back pieces (A4). These pieces also have darts similar to the head front (A1). You
can find one along the bottom and another at the upper corner. Sew them the same way, starting by
tracing the stitching lines, then folding the fabric along the point of the dart. This should match up
the slanted edges.
b. Sew from the opening of the dart into the fold of the fabric.
c. Repeat this with the upper corner dart so you have two darts total. Repeat with your other head
back piece so you have two total.
the completed
leave head back
open for
turning
16. sew the head back

a. Take your head back pieces (A4) and align them with right sides facing and the raw edges
matching up.
b. If you haven't already, note the opening for turning markings found on the paper pattern for the
head back. Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric. Sew the head back pieces together
along this edge only, but leave the opening that you marked.
c. Open up the pieces when complete.
sew desu ne?

a. Grab your body back pieces

(B5 or C5). This piece also
has a dart, found in the
fold
bottom corner. Sew it similar along
to the others, starting by point of
folding it along the point of dart
the dart and matching the
slanted lines.
b. Sew starting at the opening
and work toward the point. blend
Try to blend your stitching stitching
into the fold of the fabric. into fold
This will create a rounder 17. sew the body back darts
finish to your plush. Repeat
with your remaining body
back piece for two total.
the completed
body back
sew
along
dart edge
18. sew the body back

a. Take your two body back pieces (B5 or C5) and align them with right sides facing and the raw
edges matching up.
b. Sew them together along the edge with the dart from the previous step.
c. Open up the pieces when complete.
sew desu ne?

19. sew the back neck sew along the

neck edge complete
line up body back
head center seams
back
will line
up with
body
a. b. c. d.
a. Grab your head back piece (A4) from before and your body back (B5 or C5). The neck edges of
both of these pieces will be joined next.
b. Layer the head back over the body back, matching up the raw edges and the center seams. Pin the
fabrics together.
c. Sew the head back to the body back along this neck edge.
d. Open up the pieces when complete.
sew around
line up head
center
top of
head
20. align the front to the back

a. Grab both your front and back pieces so far. Align them with right sides facing. We're going to sew
around the entire body. Experts should be able to handle this all in one go, but we're going to break it
down into several parts for beginners.
b. Start by aligning the head pieces. Match up the head back seam with the top center notch found on
the forehead (A2). The neck seams (from steps 14 and 19) should also match up. Make sure the
ears are tucked inside and pin the layers together.
c. Sew the head front to the back starting at the neck seam, then going around to the other neck seam.
sew desu ne?

sew
from
line neck to line
up body point 3 up inner
side & outer
legs
a. b. c.
21. sew the body front to the back
a. Next, line up the body pieces. This is the edge starting at the neck and going down to the top of the
leg at point 3. Keep the arms out of the way.
b. Sew from the neck down to point 3 at the top of the leg. You'll be sewing through the seam for the
arms at point 5 along the way.
c. Next, pin the inner leg to the outer curve of the body back. It starts at point 3 and goes around to
point 4. Pin the fabrics together.
sew sew up
align other side
around other
leg of body
side of
3 body
3
4
4
d. e. f.
d. Sew around the leg, from point 3 to point 4.
e. At the edge between the legs, the center circle marking on the belly (B1 or C1) will match up with
the bottom seam. Pin the fabrics together.
f. Sew between the legs, from one point 4 to the other.
Lastly, finish up the other side by repeating parts A through D in the other direction. Sew from point
4 to 3 around the leg, then up the side, and stop at the neck seam. This should take you all the way
around the body.
sew desu ne?

clip seam
trim seam allowance
allowance at corners turn
around leg right
side out
22. clip & turn the body

a. Clip the seam allowances at the curves and corners of the body. Trimming around the leg can help
reduce bulk.
b. Also clip at corners such as between the leg and body and at the neck seam. This will help increase
flexibility when the piece is turned.
c. Turn the body right side out through the opening in the back of the head. Define the curves with a
chopstick or similar turning tool.
stuff
arms fill
fill in legs upper
while body arms
is halfway lightly
stuffed
23. stuff the body

a. Begin stuffing the body with stuffing. Start by using small bits in the tips of the arms.
b. Next, fill up the body about halfway. Then start filling up the legs firmly. Having stuffing already in
the body will help keep the leg stuffing in place.
c. Fill up the rest of the body, being sure to keep it light near the upper arms. They're very likely to stick
out from the pressure of the stuffing. That's okay though, because we're going to correct it later in
step 25.
sew desu ne?

fill up rest
of head bring
stuff
tiny needle out
nose near one
firmly edge of
opening
a. b. c.
24. close up the plush
a. When the body is stuffed, move onto the head. Be sure to get small bits of stuffing in the nose, and
fill the rest of the head firmly so there are no wrinkles near the seams and darts.
b. Lastly, fill up the rest of the head so it's firm.
c. Once the plush is stuffed, make sure the seam allowances in the opening are tucked inside and
prepare to ladder stitch it closed. Thread a hand-sewing needle and knot it at the end. Insert the
needle from the inside of the opening and out of the plush near one edge of the opening. This will
leave the knot inside the plush.
ladder
stitch
closed
pull at
thread
bring while
needle out clipping
1-2" away
d. e. f.
d. Continue from here doing a ladder stitch. Take a 1/8" stitch into the
fold of one side of the opening, then go across and take another.
Keep going down the opening until you reach the end.
2 1
e. When you're finished, stitch a knot into the end of the seam. Then
insert the needle near the finished knot and out of the plush about
1-2" away.
f. Pull the thread through and hold it taut while snipping the thread. 4
3 seam allowance
The excess thread should sink back inside the plush -- all hidden! (folded inside)
sew desu ne?

25. anchor the arms

a. Chances are your kitty's arms might be anchor
sticking out due to the nature of the shapes. underarms
To help them point downward, use a ladder to belly
stitch to sew the underside of the arms to
the belly. Sew about ½-1" down from the
underarm seam. You can go further if you like.
This should make the front paws rest nicely
between the legs instead of sticking out.
trim
seam
allowance
around
shape
sew around
feet
a. b. c.
26. sew the feet
a. Grab your feet pieces (B6 turn right
or C6). Take two of them and side out
align them with right sides cut
facing and the raw edges through
matching up. one layer
of fabric
b. Sew the feet together all only
the way around the pieces.
Repeat with the remaining
feet so you have two total.
c. Trim the excess seam
allowance around the curves d. e.
to reduce bulk for when the
piece is turned later.
d. To turn the pieces, cut a 1" slit through one layer of the fabric only, near the base. There's also a
cutting guide on the paper pattern for extra help if you need it.
e. Turn the feet right side out through the opening you've cut.
sew desu ne?

stuff ladder
lightly align onto stitch
bottom of around cut
legs
27. attach the feet

a. Stuff the feet with stuffing so they take shape and puff out a bit.
If desired, whip stitch the opening closed to help keep any stuffing from falling out during future
steps.
b. Take one of your feet and align it over the bottom of the leg, centered over the leg seam. The cut side
should be facing your project.
c. Sew the foot to the leg using a ladder stitch. Go around the cut you made in step 26. Go around with
long stitches for the first pass. Check that you like the placement, then go around again with tinier,
neater stitches for the second pass. Repeat for both feet.
trim seam allowance

leave around curves
open for
turning
28. sew the tail

a. Grab your tail pieces (B7 or C7). Align them with right sides facing and the raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the pieces together along the long curved edge. Leave the short straight edge open for turning
the piece right side out later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance around the curves of the piece. This will reduce bulk and increase
flexibility for when the piece is turned later.
sew desu ne?

sew around
opening
stuff
semi-firmly
a. b. c.
29. attach the tail
a. Turn the tail right side out and define the
gathering:
The process of shortening the length of a piece of
curves with a chopstick or similar turning fabric by sewing long stitches through it. When the
tool. thread is pulled, it forms small folds that ruffle the
b. Stuff the tail semi-firmly. Be sure to get fabric.
small bits in the tip so the tip doesn't deflate
later.
gathering stitch:
A long version of the running stitch, which is a stitch
c. Grab a hand-sewing needle and thread it. done by weaving the needle in and out of a length
Sew a gathering stitch around the opening of of fabric going along a line. The long stitches (about
¼”-½” long) gather the fabric when pulled later.
the tail, about ¼" away from the raw edge.
pull at thread to
cinch closed
align above
back dart
ladder stitch
around base
d. e. f.
d. Pull at the gathering thread to cinch the tail closed. Sew a few knots into the center to hold the
opening closed.
e. Align the tail onto the back end of your plush, above the back dart. Here it's flush against the back of
the plush, then tilted to one side. This is so the curve of the tail can be seen from the front. You may
want to have it pointing straight backward if you prefer.
f. Ladder stitch the tail to the plush around the base to secure it in place.
sew desu ne?

pg. 1/6
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dart
applique placement
STRETCH STRETCH dar
t
¼” seam allowance
r turning
fabric
2
Cut 2 from main

(A4)
HEAD BACK dart
opening fo
Cut 1 from main fabric

dart
dart
NAP
( A1)
NT
FRO EAD
H
1
pg. 2/6
EYE WHITES
applique
trace & cut 1 each
in white
EYEBROWS
applique
trace & cut 1
each in black
EYE HIGHLIGHTS
applique
trace & cut 1 each in
EYES red, pink, or blue
applique EYE SHINES
trace & cut 1 each in applique
dark red, dark pink, or trace & cut 2 each
dark blue in white
MOUTH
applique NOSE EYELIDS
trace & cut 1 applique applique
in black trace & cut 1 trace & cut 1
in pink each in black
MOON
applique
trace & cut
1 in yellow
pg. 3/6
4
center
top
NAP
luna & artemis luna & artemis
OUTER ARMS INNER LEGS (B2)
(B4) Cut 2 from main fabric
5 5
STRETCH
NAP
NAP
luna & artemis

BODY BACK (B5)
cutting guide
luna & STRETCH
artemis da
rt
FOOT
NAP
(B6)
Cut 4 from
main fabric
¼” seam
allowance
4
pg. 4/6
5 5
NAP
3 luna & artemis 3
BELLY (B1)
Cut 1 from main
fabric
STRETCH
STRETCH
(B7) center
front
4 4
TAIL
artemis
luna &
5 5
luna & artemis Cut 1 from main

UNDER
NAP
fabric
ARMS (B3) ¼” seam
allowance
STRETCH
NAP
pg. 5/6
center
top
4
diana
OUTER ARMS
NAP
diana
5 (C4) 5 INNER LEGS (C2)

Cut 1 from main fabric ¼” seam allowance
STRETCH
NAP
NAP
3
diana
BODY BACK (C5)
cutting guide
diana
FOOT da
NAP
(C6) STRETCH rt
Cut 4 from
main fabric
¼” seam
allowance
4
5 5
NAP
5 5 3 3
diana
BELLY (C1)
Cut 1 from main
fabric
Cut 1 from main ¼” seam allowance
STRETCH fabric
¼” seam
diana allowance STRETCH
UNDER
ARMS center
(C3) bottom
4 4
NAP
(C7)
diana
TAIL
NAP
STRETCH
pg. 6/6

Luna Artemis Diana Plush Sewing Pattern

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Luna Artemis Diana Plush Sewing Pattern

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Luna

Artemis & Diana

a free sewing pattern by

luna, artemis & diana plush

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materials & tools:

fusible web: applique fabrics:

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fa bric com p a r is on:

minky vs. felt

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printing the pattern:

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cutting the fabric:

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before you begin:

trace onto fuse to hold applique while

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2. finish the face applique

3. fuse the forehead moon

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4. other applique options

5. prep the darts

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7. begin the forehead

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a. Grab the other side of your line up the

8. finish the forehead

fold head sew from the finished

9. sew the nose

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align outer leave turn

10. sew & baste the ears

align along top flip inward

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inner legs will

11. sew the inner legs

a. Grab your under arm piece

13. attach the outer arms view from outer

trim seam allowance

14. sew the front neck sew along

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15. sew the head back darts

16. sew the head back

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a. Grab your body back pieces

18. sew the body back

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19. sew the back neck sew along the

20. align the front to the back

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22. clip & turn the body

23. stuff the body

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25. anchor the arms

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27. attach the feet

trim seam allowance

28. sew the tail

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Cut 2 from main