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Contents

This pattern is interactive and includes hyperlinks underlined in green. Click the links to
be taken to the relevant page or website.

Pattern Information 3
Fabric Requirements 4
Pattern Options 5
Body Measurements 6
Size Charts 7
Custom Fitting 9
Printing the Pattern 10
Print Layout 10
Print Guide 11
Cutting Checklist 12
Cutting Chart 13
Optional Preparation 14
Constructing the Bodice 15
Constructing the Puff Sleeves 23
Attaching the Puff Sleeves 27
Adding the Bodice Buttonholes 29
Constructing the Skirt 30
Gathering and Attaching the Skirt 35
Adding the Buttons 37
Glossary of Sewing Terms 39

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Pattern Information

Seam Allowance:
1/2” (1.3cm) unless otherwise advised.

Fabric Recommendations:
Light to medium weight woven fabrics including but not limited to:
 Cotton
 Poplin
 Linen
 Lawn
 Rayon
We recommend using a lightweight fabric for the sleeve lining.

Tools:
 Sewing Machine
 Serger / Overlocker
 Sewing Needles
 Removable Sewing Marker
 Pins
 Scissors / Rotary Cutter & Mat
 Iron / Ironing Board

Materials:
 4 x 1/2”-3/4” Buttons
 Lightweight Fusible Interfacing (Optional)
 Decorative Trims (Optional)

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Fabric Requirements

Based on 44” (112cm) wide, non-directional fabric. Additional fabric


may be required for directional prints.

Inches – Imperial
Vintage Length Mini Length Puff Sleeve
Size Bodice
Skirt Skirt including Lining
1 1/2 1 7/8 1/2
2 1/2 1 7/8 1/2
3 1/2 1 1/8 1 1/2
4 1/2 1 1/8 1 1/2
5 5/8 1 1/4 1 1/8 5/8
6 5/8 1 3/8 1 1/4 5/8
7 5/8 1 3/8 1 1/4 5/8
8 5/8 1 1/2 1 3/8 5/8
9 3/4 1 1/2 1 3/8 5/8
10 3/4 1 5/8 1 3/8 3/4
11 3/4 1 5/8 1 1/2 3/4
12 3/4 1 5/4 1 1/2 3/4
13 3/4 1 3/4 1 1/2 3/4
14 3/4 1 3/4 1 5/8 1

Centimetres – Metric
Vintage Length Mini Length Puff Sleeve
Size Bodice
Skirt Skirt including Lining
1 .45 .90 .80 .45
2 .50 1 .90 .45
3 .50 1.05 .95 .45
4 .55 1.20 1 .45
5 .55 1.30 1.05 .60
6 .55 1.35 1.10 .60
7 .60 1.35 1.20 .60
8 .60 1.40 1.25 .60
9 .65 1.45 1.30 .60
10 .65 1.50 1.35 .70
11 .70 1.50 1.40 .70
12 .70 1.55 1.40 .70
13 .75 1.60 1.45 .70
14 .75 1.65 1.50 .95

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Pattern Options

The Myrtle dress has a beautiful elegant wide neck and stunning puff
sleeves. The back bodice and skirt overlap in a beautiful soft V shape
with back button closure. It can be sewn in vintage or mini lengths.

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Body Measurements

Chest: Measure the whole way around the chest, at the nipple line. The
arms should be relaxed.

Waist: Measure at the natural waist, with both feet flat on the floor.

Hips: Measure around the


fullest part of the
hips/bottom, with both feet
flat on the floor

Height: Measure the child


barefoot, standing with their
feet flat, straight against a
wall. Take the measurement
from the top of the head to
the floor.
Trunk: Measure the
circumference of the body
by starting at the shoulder,
midway between the base of
the neck and shoulder joint.
Take the tape measure down
the back, through the crotch
and back up to the starting
point. This measurement must be taken with NO diaper/nappy for an
accurate measurement.

Height: ______________ Hips: ______________

Chest: ______________ Trunk: ______________

Waist: ______________

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Size Charts

Select the width based on the chest measurement and the length
based on height of the child. For this pattern, it is important to grade for
the waist if the waist size is significantly smaller than the chest size. If in
between sizes, it is recommended to cut between sizes. If
height/chest/waist sizes vary it is recommended to blend sizes for best
fit. This pattern has approximately 1 1/4” (3.2cm) ease through the
chest. The dress is designed to fall above the knee. Finished lengths are
taken from the inner shoulder of the garment to the hem – adjust
accordingly.

Inches – Imperial

Finished Finished
Size Chest Height Waist Vintage Mini
Length Length

1 19 32 19 17 1/4 16

2 20 34 7/8 20 18 5/8 17 3/8

3 21 37 3/4 21 20 18 5/8

4 22 40 5/8 22 21 3/8 19 7/8

5 23 43 1/2 22 1/2 22 3/4 21 1/8

6 24 46 3/8 23 24 1/8 22 3/8

7 25 49 1/4 23 1/2 25 1/2 23 3/4

8 26 52 1/8 24 26 7/8 25

9 27 53 5/8 24 1/2 27 7/8 25 7/8

10 28 55 1/8 25 28 7/8 26 7/8

11 29 56 5/8 25 1/2 29 7/8 27 3/4

12 30 58 1/8 26 30 7/8 28 3/4

13 31 59 5/8 26 1/2 31 7/8 29 5/8

14 32 61 1/8 27 32 7/8 30 5/8

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Centimetres – Metric

Finished Finished
Size Chest Height Waist Vintage Mini
Length Length

1 48.3 81.3 48.3 43.8 40.5

2 50.8 88.6 50.8 47.3 44.1

3 53.3 95.9 53.3 50.8 47.3

4 55.9 103.2 55.9 54.3 50.5

5 58.4 110.5 57.2 57.8 53.7

6 61 117.8 58.4 61.3 56.8

7 63.5 125.1 59.7 64.8 60.3

8 66 132.4 61 68.3 63.5

9 68.6 136.2 62.2 70.8 65.7

10 71.1 140 63.5 73.3 68.3

11 73.7 143.8 64.8 75.9 70.5

12 76.2 147.6 66 78.4 73

13 78.7 151.4 67.3 81.0 75.2

14 81.3 155.3 68.6 83.5 77.8

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Custom Fitting

If the child measures between sizes, for example, has a chest measurement
of size 3, height measurement of size 4, and a waist of size 2, blending can be
used to achieve a custom fit. Blending is applied to each pattern piece,
including measurements taken from the cutting chart. Using the above
scenario, each pattern piece would be kept at size 3 for width and increased
in height to the size 4 and taken down to a 2 waist on the bodice.
The diagram illustrates how to redraw the pattern (blue line) based on the
above scenario. If an extreme blend is necessary, adding length primarily
through the waist and skirt will assist in keeping the pattern proportionate – if
help is needed, ask us in our Facebook Group, we are always happy to help!

It is always recommended to sew a toile (muslin) beforehand. Use a similar


weight fabric (a less expensive or upcycled fabric where possible).
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Printing the Pattern

For detailed information on printing this pattern, click the interactive


hyperlinks below. FAQ can be found on the Peony Patterns website:

How Do I Print My File Correctly?


Printing with layers
How Do I Assemble the Pattern?

Print Layout

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Print Guide

The pattern pages are from page 40 to 49. To print the check square,
print page 40 only. Use the layers function to print the size/s required.
Peony Patterns believes in saving paper/ink wherever possible,
therefore providing cutting charts only for large rectangular pieces
such as the skirt pieces. Use the cutting charts on page 12 to select the
correct cutting measurements for the gathered skirt portion of this
pattern.

Puff Sleeve Puff


Size Bodice
Main Sleeve Lining

1 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 49 41-42

2 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 49 41-42

3 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 49 41-42

4 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 49 41-42

5 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 49 41-42

6 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 49 41-42

7 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 49 41-42

8 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 48-49 41-42

9 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 48-49 41-42

10 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 48-49 41-42

11 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 48-49 41-42

12 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 48-49 41-42

13 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 48-49 41-42

14 40-43, 45-49 43-44, 48-49 41-42, 46-47

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Cutting Checklist

Bodice: Cut 2 front bodice pieces on the fold (1 main, 1 lining).


Cut 4 back bodice pieces as 2 mirror image sets (2
main, 2 lining).

Sleeve: Cut 2 puff sleeve main pieces on the fold (2 main) and 2
puff sleeve lining pieces on the fold (2 lining).

Dress Skirt: Cut 1 front skirt piece and 2 back skirt pieces (3 main)
using the cutting chart. Choose between vintage or mini
lengths.

Designer Tip: It is really easy to add tulle to this pattern by simply cutting
additional skirt pieces and layering! Get creative!

Transfer all notches and buttonhole placement indicated on the pattern


pieces to the fabric.

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Cutting Chart

Inches – Imperial

Front Skirt – Back Skirt – Front Skirt – Back Skirt –


Size Vintage Length Vintage Length Mini Length Mini Length
Cut 1 (L x W) Cut 2 (L x W) Cut 1 (L x W) Cut 2 (L x W)
1 11 1/2 x 26 3/4 11 1/2 x 22 5/8 10 1/4 x 26 3/4 10 1/4 x 22 5/8
2 12 3/8 x 27 7/8 12 3/8 x 23 5/8 11 1/8 x 27 7/8 11 1/8 x 23 5/8
3 13 3/8 x 29 1/8 13 3/8 x 24 1/2 12 x 29 1/8 12 x 24 1/2
4 14 1/4 x 30 1/4 14 1/4 x 25 1/2 12 3/4 x 30 1/4 12 3/4 x 25 1/2
5 15 1/8 x 31 1/2 15 1/8 x 26 1/2 13 1/2 x 31 1/2 13 1/2 x 26 1/2
6 16 1/8 x 32 3/4 16 1/8 x 27 3/8 14 3/8 x 32 3/4 14 3/8 x 27 3/8
7 17 x 33 7/8 17 x 28 3/8 15 1/4 x 33 7/8 15 1/4 x 28 3/8
8 17 7/8 x 35 1/8 17 7/8 x 29 3/8 16 x 35 1/8 16 x 29 3/8
9 18 3/8 x 36 1/4 18 3/8 x 30 1/4 16 3/8 x 36 1/4 16 3/8 x 30 1/4
10 19 x 37 1/2 19 x 31 1/4 17 x 37 1/2 17 x 31 1/4
11 19 1/2 x 38 3/4 19 1/2 x 32 1/4 17 3/8 x 38 3/4 17 3/8 x 32 1/4
12 20 x 39 7/8 20 x 33 1/8 17 7/8 x 39 7/8 17 7/8 x 33 1/8
13 20 5/8 x 41 1/8 20 5/8 x 34 1/8 18 3/8 x 41 1/8 18 3/8 x 34 1/8
14 21 1/4 x 42 1/4 21 1/4 x 35 1/8 18 7/8 x 42 1/4 18 7/8 x 35 1/8
*Measurements rounded to the nearest 1/8”

Centimetres – Metric

Front Skirt – Back Skirt – Front Skirt – Back Skirt –


Size Vintage Length Vintage Length Mini Length Mini Length
Cut 1 (L x W) Cut 2 (L x W) Cut 1 (L x W) Cut 2 (L x W)
1 29.2 x 67.8 29.2 x 57.4 26 x 67.8 26 x 57.4
2 31.5 x 70.9 31.5 x 59.9 28.4 x 70.9 28.4 x 59.9
3 33.9 x 73.9 33.9 x 62.3 30.4 x 73.9 30.4 x 62.3
4 36.2 x 77 36.2 x 64.7 32.4 x 77 32.4 x 64.7
5 38.5 x 80 38.5 x 67.2 34.4 x 80 34.4 x 67.2
6 40.8 x 83.1 40.8 x 69.6 36.4 x 83.1 36.4 x 69.6
7 43.1 x 86.1 43.1 x 72.1 38.7 x 86.1 38.7 x 72.1
8 45.5 x 89.2 45.5 x 74.5 40.7 x 89.2 40.7 x 74.5
9 46.8 x 92.2 46.8 x 76.9 41.7 x 92.2 41.7 x 76.9
10 48.2 x 95.3 48.2 x 79.4 43.1 x 95.3 43.1 x 79.4
11 49.6 x 98.3 49.6 x 81.8 44.2 x 98.3 44.2 x 81.8
12 50.9 x 101.3 50.9 x 84.3 45.5 x 101.3 45.5 x 84.3
13 52.3 x 104.4 52.3 x 86.7 46.6 x 104.4 46.6 x 86.7
14 53.7 x 107.4 53.7 x 89.1 47.9 x 107.4 47.9 x 89.1

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Optional Preparation

To stabilise the back bodice buttonhole area, adhere a rectangle of


lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the left piece of the
back bodice lining, behind each buttonhole position.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: Staystitch around the curved edges of each


pattern piece, such as the neckline and armscye, to prevent
distortion/stretching of the fabric.

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Constructing the Bodice

Place the left back bodice main right side up. Using a removable
sewing marker, mark the four buttonholes on the back left bodice main
using the pattern piece as a guide. The buttons will be placed after the
garment is completed.

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Place the front bodice main right side up. Align one of the back bodice
main pieces to the corresponding shoulder, right sides together. Sew to
attach.

Repeat for the remaining side.

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Press the shoulder seams open.

Repeat for the lining pieces.

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Press the shoulder seams open.

Place the bodice lining over the bodice main, right sides together. Pin
around the neckline and centre backs, aligning the raw edges and the
shoulder seams. Sew to attach.

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Clip the corners and the curves, being careful not to clip through any
stitching. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4” (6mm). Alternatively, pinking
shears can be used.

Turn the bodice right side out. Gently push out the corners and press.
Understitch the neckline if desired.

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Place the bodice with the right side facing up. Separate the front
bodice main and lining.

Bring the corresponding back bodice main onto the front bodice main,
right sides together. Align the side seams and pin in place. Sew to
attach.

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Repeat for the remaining side.

Repeat for the lining pieces.

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Press all four seams open.

Optional: The armscyes can be basted using a 1/4” (6mm) seam


allowance.

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Constructing the Puff Sleeves

Locate one of the sleeve main pieces. Sew two rows of gathering
stitches along the bottom curved raw edge. Sew the first row of
gathering stitches 1/4” (6mm) from the raw edge, and the second row
3/8” (1cm) from the first line of gathering stitches.

Locate one of the sleeve lining pieces. Gather the bottom of the sleeve
main the same width as the bottom of the sleeve lining. Leave 1/2”
(1.3cm) at either end of the sleeve main ungathered.

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Place the sleeve main onto the sleeve lining piece, right sides together.
Align the gathered edge of the sleeve main with the bottom raw edge
of the sleeve lining. Pin in place. Sew to attach. Trim the seam to 1/4”
(6mm).

Open the sleeve out and remove any visible gathering stitches. Press
the seam allowance towards the sleeve lining. With right side facing up,
understitch the seam in place using a 1/8” (3mm) seam allowance.

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Fold the sleeve in half vertically, aligning the raw edges and the seams.
Pin in place. Sew to attach.

Press the seam open.

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Bring the sleeve main up over the sleeve lining, wrong sides together.
Align the raw edges of the top of both sleeves and pin in place. Baste
the sleeve main and lining together using a 1/8” (3mm) seam
allowance. The sleeve is designed so that the bottom of the sleeve
main will be drawn inside the sleeve slightly.

Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the top of the sleeve,
between the notches marked on the sleeve lining. Sew the first row of
gathering stitches 1/4” (6mm) from the raw edge, and the second row
3/8” (1cm) from the first line of gathering stitches.

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With the sleeve right side out, gather the sleeve cap, leaving the tails
long so that the sleeve can be further adjusted when set into the
bodice. Repeat for the remaining sleeve.

Attaching the Puff Sleeves

Turn the bodice wrong side out, keeping the sleeves right side out.
Insert one of the sleeves into the bodice to meet the arm opening.

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Align the sleeve seam with the bodice side seam. Match the top
centre of the sleeve to the shoulder seam. Pin the sleeve to the bodice
starting from the underarm, moving toward the shoulder. Adjust the
gathering stitches to fit the armscye between the notches and pin in
place. Sew to attach. Finish the raw edge with a serger/overlocker or
zigzag stitch.

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Repeat for the remaining sleeve. Remove any visible gathering stitches.
Turn the bodice right side out. Press.

Adding the Bodice Buttonholes

Create two sets of horizontal buttonholes on the left hand side of the
back bodice in the positions marked previously. Set aside. Depending
on the size of the buttons being used, the buttonholes are placed
approximately 1/4” (6mm) from the back bodice edge and 1”-1 1/8”
(2.5cm-2.9cm) from the bottom raw edge of the bodice. Always check
the button size being used will fit nicely when the seam allowance is
removed – i.e., when the bodice is sewn to the skirt.

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Constructing the Skirt

Pockets can easily be added to this garment simply by following the


Peony Patterns free pocket tutorial found here:
https://www.peonypatterns.com/products/peony-inseam-pocket-free

Place the front skirt piece and one of the back skirt pieces right sides
together. Pin the side seam. Sew to attach. Finish the raw edge using a
serger/overlocker or zig zag stitch and press towards the back of the
skirt.
Tip: Now is an ideal time to place size and care information tags into
the side seam of the skirt.

Repeat for the remaining side.

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Press the raw edges of both of the centre back skirt pieces 1/4” (6mm)
wrong sides together. Repeat for the raw bottom edge of the skirt.

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Place the skirt right side up. Fold one of the previously folded centre
back edges 1” (2.5cm) right sides together. Press, ensuring that the 1/4”
(6mm) fold remains folded. Repeat for the opposite centre back edge.

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Measure 1” (2.5cm) up from the bottom folded edge of the hem and
draw a horizontal line on the folded side of the fabric, using a
removable sewing marker. Sew over this line. Backstitch to secure.
Repeat for the opposite side.

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Flip the folded centre back edges to the wrong side of the skirt and
push the corners out nicely on each side. The bottom edge will
automatically start to flip up, creating a 1” (2.5cm) hem around the
edges of the skirt. Press the hem and centre back seams to create a
sharp crease.

Pin the centre back seams and hem in place. Starting at the top of one
of the centre back sides, edgestitch the sides and hem of the skirt using
a 1/8” (3mm) seam allowance. When the first corner is reached, drop
the needle to the down position, lift the sewing machine foot and pivot
the fabric to turn. Continue to sew the long bottom edge and
remaining centre back side to secure, pivoting again at the second
corner.

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Gathering and Attaching the Skirt

For a short video on how to gather, watch the Gathering Fabric tutorial:
https://www.peonypatterns.com/pages/how-to-gather-fabric

Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the top raw edge of the skirt.
Sew the first row of gathering stitches 1/4” (6mm) from the edge, and
the second row 3/8” (1cm) from the first line of gathering stitches.

Gather the skirt same width as the bodice. Do not gather the centre
back folded edge.

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Place the gathered skirt over the bodice, right sides together, aligning
the top raw edge of the skirt with the bottom raw edge of the bodice.
Align the side seams of the skirt with the side seams of the bodice and
the centre backs of the bodice to the centre backs of the skirt. Pin in
place.

Distribute the gathers evenly and continue pinning the skirt to the
bodice main, remembering to leave the folded centre back edges
ungathered. Sew to attach. Finish the raw edge using a
serger/overlocker or zig zag stitch.

Alternatively, the skirt may be enclosed in the waist seam. To do so,


follow the video tutorial:
https://www.peonypatterns.com/pages/enclosing-a-bodice-seam
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Turn the garment right side out and press the seam allowance towards
the bodice. Remove any visible gathering stitches. Topstitch the seam
allowance to the bodice using a 1/8” (3mm) seam allowance.

Adding the Buttons

Align the side seams allowing the back bodice pieces to overlap. The
following chart outlines the distance the back will overlap. Using the
buttonholes already created on the left side of the back bodice, mark
the corresponding button placement on the right hand side of the
back bodice. Attach the buttons.
Tip: On smaller sizes, two large buttons may be used in place of four
smaller buttons.

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Size Overlap (Inches) Overlap (CM
1 6 1/4 15.8
2 6 1/2 16.7
3 6 7/8 17.5
4 7 1/4 18.3
5 7 1/2 19.2
6 7 7/8 20
7 8 1/4 20.9
8 8 1/2 21.7
9 8 7/8 22.6
10 9 1/4 23.4
11 9 1/2 24.3
12 9 7/8 25.1
13 10 1/4 26
14 10 1/2 26.8

Congratulations! Your Myrtle dress is now complete. Share your work in


our Facebook sewing group or on social media using the hashtags
#myrtledress #peonypatterns #peonypatternsmyrtle

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Glossary of Sewing Terms

Baste Use a long stitch to temporarily hold two pieces of fabric


together before they are sewn permanently or to
stabilise a curve.

Backstitch Sewing backward over the first few stitches so they do


not come apart.

Casing A tunnel of fabric used to encase elastic or a drawstring.

Clipping Cutting into a seam allowance or cutting off the corner


to prevent excess bulk when the garment is turned inside
out.

Easing Evenly distributing fabric around a curve.

Finish a Seam Finish a seam by using a serger/overlocker or a zig zag


stitch to prevent the edges of the fabric fraying.

Edgestitch Stitching on the edge of a fold or seam to hold it in


place. Usually stitched 1/16” (1.5mm) from the edge.

Gather A long stitch is used along the length of the fabric, and
then drawn in to create a gather or ruffle.

Grade Trimming a seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Hem Finishing a garment so that no raw edges are shown.

Press Use of an iron to press a seam or piece of fabric in a


certain direction.

Staystitch Stitching through one layer of fabric, around a curve to


prevent distortion or stretching of the garment.

Topstitch Stitching on the outside of a garment to finish seams or


hold them in place. Usually this is done in a slightly longer
stitch length. Usually stitched at 1/8” (3mm) from the
edge.

Understitch A line of stitching along the inside of a garment, close to


the seam to prevent rolling or stretching.

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Peony Patterns believes in saving
Peony
Patterns
paper/ink wherever possible, therefore
providing cutting charts only for
rectangular pieces such as skirts.

1
Size and Symbol Key Use the cutting charts on page 13
to select the correct cutting measurements
Select the size using the size chart in the tutorial
for the skirt portion of this pattern.
1
2
Width
3

Length
4

Selvage
Selvage

Grainline
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
Buttonhole placement

Cut On Fold Grainline Notch


Place the edge of Align this to the Mark or cut a small snip
the pattern piece lengthwise grain of into the fabric, the
on the fold of the the fabric snip must be smaller
fabric than the seam
allowance.

Peony
Patterns

Test
Squares

When printed, this


2’’ x 2’’ square must measure 2’’x2’’

7cm x 7cm When printed, this


square must measure 7cm x 7cm
2
14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Grainline
3
14 13

Peony
Patterns
Cut On Fold

Myrtle
Puff Sleeve Lining
Cut 2 lining on the fold
1/2”/1.3cm seam allowance included
4
12 11 10
9 8 7
6 5 4
3
2 1
5 Peony
Patterns

Myrtle
Cut On Fold
Grainline

Puff Sleeve Main


Cut 2 main on the fold
1/2”/1.3cm seam allowance included
6
PeP
14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

My

Grainline
Front B
Cut 2 on
(1 main,
1/2”/1.3cm seam a
7
eony
Patterns
Cut On Fold

yrtle
Bodice
n the fold
1 lining)
allowance included
8
14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
9
Peony
Patterns
Grainline

Myrtle
Back Bodice
Cut 4 as 2 mirror image sets
(2 main, 2 lining)
1/2”/1.3cm seam allowance included
10

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