ELECTRICAL

TRANSMISSION SWITCH
Transmission Switch - Circuit Breakout

Testing
1. With the switch installed, use an ohmmeter to test
continuity between the switch leads and engine ground.

2. First, shift the transmission into “neutral” and test for

continuity between the DG/WH wire and ground.

3. Then shift the transmission into “reverse” and test for

8
continuity between the DB wire and ground. In both tests
you should have continuity to ground.

8.7
ELECTRICAL
Removal IGNITION SYSTEM
1. Remove the CVT cover. The indicator switch will be
Overview
visible between the drive and driven clutch. Refer to CVT
Chapter for CVT cover removal and installation. The ignition system consists of a simple magneto-driven system
that includes a stator pulser coil, CDI Box, ignition coil and
2. Remove the (2) screws and pull on switch to release from related wiring / connectors.
crankcase. Timing is non-adjustable on this ignition system.
3. Inspect the shift indicator contacts, shift drum, pin and
spring. Verify the pin is not sticking in the drum or is Ignition System Troubleshooting
damaged. Replace any worn or damaged components. No Spark, Weak or Intermittent Spark
INSPECT • No 12 volt power on brown (BN) wire at CDI box or no
CDI box ground path from the black/white (BK/WH)
wire

• Spark plug gap incorrect

• Fouled spark plug

• Faulty spark plug cap or poor connection to high

tension lead

• Related wiring loose, disconnected, shorted, or

corroded

• Engine Stop switch or ignition switch faulty

Installation • ETC switch faulty
1. Install spring and pin into shift drum. • Poor ignition coil ground
2. Install switch with new O-ring. Route wires through • Faulty stator (measure resistance of all ignition related
crankcase. windings)
3. Install retaining screws. • Incorrect wiring (inspect color coding in connectors
etc)
4. Torque screws to specification.
• Faulty ignition coil winding (measure resistance of
primary and secondary)

• Sheared flywheel key

Pin
• Flywheel loose or damaged

• Excessive crankshaft runout on magneto. (RH) end

should not exceed .005”

• Faulty CDI module

=T
Indicator Switch Screw Torque:
39-52 in. lbs. (4.5-6 Nm)

8.8
 ELECTRICAL
Ignition System Testing
Whenever troubleshooting an electrical problem, first check all terminal connections to be sure they are clean and tight. Use the
following flow chart as a guide for troubleshooting. NOTE: The brown (BN) wire on youth models carries 12V key-on power.

Condition: No spark or intermittent spark.

Turn key switch to

ON.
Disconnect 2-wire
connector from
CDI

Measure between
engine ground and
BROWN wire.

Battery voltage on
Battery voltage on RED Replace key
Battery Voltage? NO YES BROWN wire at key NO
circuit at key switch? switch.
switch at ON position?

NO YES
YES

Check wiring
Check 15A fuse
between switch
and battery.
and CDI.
Disconnect 4-wire
plug from CDI.
Check the BLACK
wire for continuity
to ground.

Continuity? NO Check wiring.

YES

Disconnect DG
wire from ignition
coil.
8
Check for Check wiring and/
Continuity? NO
continuity between or key switch.
plug and key
switch in ON
position.
YES

Perform CDI
output test, pulser
coil output test and Replace suspect
Components
ignition coil NO components and
pass tests?
resistance test recheck.
detailed within this
chapter.
YES

If vehicle still has no spark,

repeat troubleshooting steps.
Pay close attention to
condition of wires and
connections.

8.9
ELECTRICAL
RPM Ignition Limiter Functions
NOTE: The CDI box reads the RPM signal from the stator. The CDI box acts as a limiter by retarding the
ignition timing if RPM reaches the specified limit. In reverse gear, the CDI box retards ignition timing and
limits RPM once it receives a ground path from the transmission switch dark blue (DB) wire indicating the
vehicle is in reverse. The CDI box can also receive a ground path from the ETC switch causing the CDI box to
retard timing and limit RPM if the throttle cable becomes slack or stuck.

8.10
 ELECTRICAL
RPM Limiter Specifications Pulser Coil Output / Resistance Tests
Disconnect the 4-wire connector at the CDI box. Install the Peak
Ignition
Model Max RPM Reading Adaptor (PV-39991) to your meter and connect one
Timing
meter lead to the dark blue / black wire (DB/YEL) and the other
170cc 8000 N/A to engine ground. Set meter to read DC Volts. Crank engine and
verify pulser coil output.
NOTE: There are no timing advance marks stamped
on the flywheel to read with a timing light. Connect
Voltage Reading
Meter Leads
Test (With Peak Reading Adapter)
Between:
Ignition Coil Test
DB/YEL to 5 DC Volts minimum @
Pulser Coil
Engine Ground cranking RPM
Measure between
the two wire tabs for
If readings are within specifications, test the resistance value of
primary reading.
the pulser coil. When finished, reconnect the 4-wire connector
to CDI box.

Connect
Ohm Test $#Reading
Meter Leads To:
Pulser Coil DB/YEL to Black 151 $ ± 20%

Test Description Resistance

Ignition Coil Primary Winding 0.2 $ ± 20%
Ignition Coil Secondary Winding
(With Cap Installed) 8 K $ ± 20%
(Without Cap Installed) 3 K $ ± 20%
Spark Plug Resistor Cap 5K$

CDI Output Test

Using Peak Reading Adaptor
Re-connect all wires to the CDI box. Disconnect the (BLACK/
8
YEL) CDI output wire from ignition coil primary terminal.
Install the Peak Reading Adaptor (PV-39991) to your meter and
connect one meter lead to engine ground and the other to the
(BLACK/YEL) CDI output wire at the ignition coil. Set meter
to read DC Volts. Crank engine and verify CDI output to the
ignition coil. When finished, reconnect CDI output wire to
ignition coil.

Connect Meter
Output Test Reading
Leads To:
BLK/YEL to
CDI Output 180 DC Volts ± 20%
Engine Ground

8.11
ELECTRICAL
CHARGING SYSTEM
Charging System Testing
Whenever charging system problems are suspected, proceed with the following system checks:

Using a volt meter, set it to read D.C. volts, Remove the battery and properly
measure the battery open circuit voltage No service. Reinstall the fully charged
(across the positive and negative posts). battery or a fully charged shop battery.
Is the reading 12.8 volts or more? Verify condition of 15A fuse.

Yes

Meter Setting: DC Volts

With the transmission in neutral, start the
engine and increase RPM to between 3000
and 4000. Read battery voltage with the Yes Check for a system current draw.
a voltmeter. Voltage readings should start
to increase towards 13.0 V D.C.
Was an increase noticed?
No

Meter Setting: AC Volts

Disconnect the wire connector between the
regulator / rectifier and stator. Using a volt
meter perform a stator output test.
See the test procedure detailed in this chapter
No
under Stator / Alternator Tests.
Does stator AC output meet specification?
Yes
Perform the resistance tests detailed
in this chapter under the
Stator / Alternator Tests. If stator
tests good, inspect the flywheel
magnets, stator coils and stator
wire harness for damage. Repair or
replace any damaged components.

Meter Setting: DC Volts

Reconnect the alternator wires. Note: Red
wire must be connected to harness. Battery
voltage must be present on red wire terminal
on harness side of voltage regulator connector.
Is it?
Yes
Check regulator / rectifier connections
and ground, battery connections,
No main fuse and connecting wires.
Repair or replace faulty wiring or
components.

If all of the previous tests indicate a

good condition, but the charging voltage does
not rise above battery voltage at the
connector or terminal board, replace the
voltage regulator.

8.12
 ELECTRICAL
Main Fuse / Fuse Holder Location Stator / Alternator Tests
A 15 Amp fuse protects the main electrical system. The fuse is Two tests can be performed using a multimeter to determine the
located in the battery compartment. condition of the stator:

15 Amp Fuse Take Measurements on

Stator Side of Harness

NOTE: Use only the recommended fuse capacity, as TEST 1: Measure resistance value of each stator leg.
use of a higher amperage fuse to correct blown-fuse
situations could lead to electrical component 1. Measure the resistance value of the stator legs. Use the
damage. following chart as a reference when testing.

Voltage Regulator / Rectifier Connect

Ohm Test $#Reading
Meter Leads To:
The voltage regulator / rectifier is located near the front of the BK to Ground 0.1 $ ± 20%
engine.
Battery Charge Coil BK to YEL 0.9 $ ± 20%
The regulator diodes can be tested with an ohm meter. Attach the BK to RED 1.1 $ ± 20%
positive ‘+’ lead to the BK pin and the negative ‘-’ lead to the
WHT pin. There should be measurable resistance. Reverse the
TEST 2: Measure AC voltage output of each stator leg. Test at
leads and test. There should be no continuity. The YEL and RED
cranking rpm with a voltmeter set to read AC volts.
pins should be tested the same and achieve the same results.
1. Turn over the engine with the starter motor.

2. First measure from the red wire (RD) to engine ground.

Compare readings to specifications.

3. Next measure from the yellow wire (YE) to engine ground.

Compare readings to specifications. 8
Connect
AC Output Test AC Reading
Meter Leads To:
YEL to Ground 8 Vac
Battery Charge Coil
RED to Ground 5 Vac

NOTE: To check the charging system output further,

start the engine and perform the same tests. Voltage
should increase with increased RPM.

Maximum Stator Output

6.5 Amps @ W.O.T.

8.13
ELECTRICAL
BATTERY New Battery Activation

Battery Maintenance Service Notes

WARNING

WARNING Battery electrolyte is poisonous. It contains sul-

Battery electrolyte is poisonous. It contains
sulfuric acid. Serious burns can result from
contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote:
External: Flush with water.
Internal: Drink large quantities of water or milk.
Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg, or
vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.
Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get
prompt medical attention.
Batteries produce explosive gases. Keep
sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away. Ventilate
when charging or using in an enclosed space.
Always shield eyes when
working near batteries.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
furic acid. Serious burns can result from contact
with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote:
External: Flush with water.
Internal: Drink large quantities of water or milk.
Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get
prompt medical attention.
Batteries produce explosive gases. Keep
sparks, cigarettes, etc. away. Ventilate when
charging or using in an enclosed space. Always
shield eyes when working near batteries.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
To ensure maximum service life and performance from a new
battery, perform the following steps.
1. Remove the battery (1), battery acid (2), funnel (3) and cap
(4) from the box.
1 2

CAUTION

Always wear safety glasses, rubber protective

gloves and appropriate clothing when
working with batteries.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT activate Youth RZR batteries

unless they will be put into service within 30 days of
activation. 4 3
Youth RZR vehicles use a low maintenance battery. Do not
2. Remove the protective strip from the top of the battery.
remove the battery cap strip to check acid level or add water
Insert the battery electrolyte funnel into the filler holes.
once the battery have been activated. Perform the proper battery
tests and charge or replace the battery as required. 3. Carefully press the battery electrolyte pack onto the funnel.
The funnel will puncture the pack seals, releasing
New batteries must be fully charged before use or battery life
electrolyte into the battery. Allow the pack to drain for 20
will be significantly reduced (10-30% of the battery’s full
minutes, periodically tapping the sides to release any air-
potential).
lock or bubbles that may be present.
NOTE: DO NOT use a constant high-amperage
4. Properly dispose of the battery electrolyte pack. Let battery
battery charger to charge this style of battery. Use a
set with the vent cap strip off for 30 minutes to allow full
low-amperage charger capable of charging voltage
absorption of the electrolyte. After 30 minutes, install the
that is 1/10 of the battery amp-hour rating.
battery seal strip onto the battery.

5. Charge the battery initially for 3 to 5 hours using Christie

Charger (PA-37453) or a charger with an output capable of
1/10th the battery’s amp-hour rating.

8.14

Battery Removal
WARNING
Improperly connecting or disconnecting battery
cables can result in an explosion and cause
serious injury or death. When removing the
battery, always disconnect the negative (black)
cable first.
When reinstalling the battery, always connect
the negative (black) cable last.
To remove the battery:
1. Remove the driver’s seat to access the battery.
Battery Location
2. Disconnect the hold-down strap securing the battery in
position.
3. Disconnect the black negative (-) battery cable first.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) battery cable last.
5. Lift the battery out of the compartment.
CAUTION
To reduce the chance of sparks:
Whenever removing the battery, disconnect the
negative (black) cable first. When reinstalling the
battery, install the negative cable last.
Battery Cleaning
Keep the battery terminals and connections free of corrosion. If
cleaning is necessary, remove the corrosion with a stiff wire
brush. Wash with a solution of one tablespoon baking soda and
one cup water. Rinse well with tap water and dry off with clean
shop towels. Coat the terminals with dielectric grease or
petroleum jelly.
ELECTRICAL
Battery Installation
1. Place the fully charged battery in its holder.
2. Attach the hold-down strap(s).
3. Connect and tighten the red positive (+) cable first.
4. Connect and tighten the black negative (-) cable last.
5. Torque the battery terminal bolts to 3.5 ft. lbs. (4.7 Nm)
6. Verify that the cables are properly routed.
NOTE: When installing a new battery, make sure it's
fully charged prior to its initial use. Using a new
battery that has not been fully charged can damage
the battery and result in a shorter life. It can also
hinder vehicle performance. If charging is
necessary, use a .5 amp battery charger.
Battery Voltage Test
Battery voltage should be checked with a digital multi-tester.
Readings of 12.8 or less require further battery testing and
charging. See Load Test.
NOTE: Batteries should be kept at or near a full
charge as possible. If the battery is stored or used in
a partially charged condition, crystal sulfation will
form on the plates, reducing the efficiency and
service life of the battery.
Battery Load Test
CAUTION
Remove the spark plug high tension lead and connect
securely to engine ground before proceeding.
A battery may indicate a full charge condition in the battery
voltage test and the specific gravity test, but still may not have
the storage capacity necessary to properly function in the
electrical system.
For this reason, a battery capacity or load test should be
8
conducted whenever poor battery performance is suspected. To
perform this test:
1. Connect a multi-tester to the battery in the same manner as
was done in the battery voltage test. The reading should be
12.8 volts or greater.
2. Engage the electric starter and view the registered battery
voltage while cranking the engine. Continue the test for 15
seconds. During this cranking period, the observed voltage
should not drop below 9.5 volts.
3. If the beginning voltage is 12.8 or higher and the cranking
voltage drops below 9.5 volts during the test, replace the
battery.
8.15
ELECTRICAL
Battery Charging Procedure
Charge the battery using a charger capable of producing voltage
1/10th of the battery’s amp/hr rating. Example: Youth batteries
have an amp/hr rating of 12 amps. Do not exceed 1.2 amps
charging voltage or damage to the battery will result.
Fully charged, the battery should read 12.8-13.0 Volts. After
charging is complete, let the battery stand 1-2 hours and re-test
the voltage. Do not overcharge the battery!
There is no need to remove the cell cap strip or add water for the
life of the battery.
STARTER SYSTEM
Starter Relay
The starter relay consists of a simple 2-way circuit. Power is
present at the (RD) wire from the battery. Once the switching
side of the relay receives power from the brake switch and a
ground path when the key is turned to the START position,
battery power is sent to the starter motor to crank the engine.
The relay assembly is attached to a cross member located above
the engine.

BATTERY CHARGING CHART

State
of VOLTAGE ACTION CHARGE TIME
Charge

100% 12.8-13.0 None FULL None Required

Slight
75% 12.5-12.8 3-6 Hours @ 0.5 A
Charge

50% 12.0-12.5 Charge 5-11 Hours @ 0.5 A

13+ Hours @ 0.5 A Use the illustration below when troubleshooting a “No Start”
25% 11.5-12.0 Charge
Check Charging condition.
Less than 20 Hours @ 0.5 A
0% Charge
11.5 Battery may be dead

Because of the characteristics of a sealed battery, overcharging

decreases the volume of electrolyte. The longer the overcharge
time, the greater the drop in electrolyte, and subsequently
starting power. Water cannot be added to a sealed battery. If a
sealed battery is overcharged, it will have to self-discharge
before it can be used. Overcharging can also warp plates,
making future charging difficult. Watch charging times
carefully, or use a charger with limited charging time/current
capabilities. Polaris recommends using the Christie Multi
Battery Charger (PV-67030), available from tool provider SPX
for charging batteries. Always stop charging if the battery
becomes warm to the touch. Let it cool sufficiently before
resuming charging.

Battery Storage
Whenever the vehicle is not used for a period of three months or
more, remove the battery from the vehicle, ensure that it's fully
charged, and store it out of the sun in a cool, dry place. Check
battery voltage each month during storage and recharge as
needed to maintain a full charge.

8.16
 ELECTRICAL
Starter Motor Service 2. Remove the three screws and washers.

The starter motor is a complete service part. If it is determined

that the starter motor is the failed part, replace as needed. See the
parts manual for correct part number.

Although the starter motor is not serviceable, it can be

disassembled, tested and cleaned.

O-ring

O-ring

3. Remove magnet housing while holding the armature and

brush holder section together.

Starter Disassembly
NOTE: Use only electrical contact cleaner to clean
starter motor parts. Other solvents may leave a
residue or damage internal parts and insulation.

NOTE: Some starter motors may not be serviceable.

Replacement of entire assembly may be required.
Check the parts manual for replacement part
information.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and starter motor

harness. Remove the (2) bolts from the starter and pull it
from the engine.

8.17
ELECTRICAL
Starter Brush Inspection / Replacement 2. Using a digital multi-tester, measure the resistance between
each of the commutator segments. The reading should be
1. Using an Ohm meter, measure the resistance between the .3 ohms or less.
cable terminal and the insulated brush. The reading should
be .3 ohms or less. Measure the resistance between the
cable terminal and brush housing. Make sure the brush is
not touching the case. The reading should be infinite (no
reading).

2. Remove the brush plate and brushes. Measure the brush

length and replace if worn past the service limit.

0.20” (5 mm) 3. Measure the resistance between each commutator segment

and the armature shaft. The reading should be infinite. (no
continuity)

Brush Length Service Limit

0.20“ (5 mm)

3. Inspect the surface of the commutator for wear or

discoloration. See Armature Test.

4. Be sure that the terminal bolt insulation washer is properly

seated in the housing and the tab on the brush plate engages
the notch in the brush plate housing.

Armature Test
4. Check commutator bars for discoloration. Bars discolored
1. Inspect surface of commutator. Replace if excessively in pairs indicate shorted coils, requiring replacement of the
worn or damaged. starter motor.
5. Place armature in a growler. Turn growler on and position
a hacksaw blade or feeler gauge lengthwise 1/8" (.3 cm)
above armature coil laminates. Rotate armature 360°. If
hacksaw blade is drawn to armature on any pole, the
armature is shorted and must be replaced.

8.18

6. Inspect the permanent magnets in starter housing. Make
sure they are not cracked or separated from housing.
CAUTION
Use care when handling the starter housing.
Do not drop or strike the housing, as magnet
damage is possible. If the magnets are damaged,
the starter must be replaced.
Starter Reassembly
1. Place armature in field magnet casing.
2. Inspect and replace the O-rings if damaged.
3. Install case sealing O-ring. Make sure O-ring is in good
condition and not twisted on the case. Lubricate the ends
of the armature shaft and oil seal with a light film of grease,
and install housing.
4. Install brush housing onto the armature, pushing back
brushes while installing armature shaft.
5. Reinstall starter motor housing screws and washers. Make
sure O-rings are in good condition and seated in groove.
Tighten sufficiently.
6. Reinstall the starter motor to the engine.
Voltage Drop Test
The Voltage Drop Test is used to test for bad connections. When
performing the test, you are testing the amount of voltage drop
through the connection. A poor or corroded connection will
appear as a high voltage reading.
To perform the test, place the meter on DC volts and place the
meter leads across the connection to be tested. Refer to the chart
on next page to perform voltage drop tests on the starter system.
Voltage should not exceed
.1 DC volts per connection
ELECTRICAL
Starter System Troubleshooting
Starter Motor Does Not Turn
• Battery discharged - low specific gravity
• Loose or faulty battery cables or corroded connections
(see Voltage Drop Tests)
• Related wiring loose, disconnected, or corroded
• Poor ground connections at battery cable, starter motor
or starter solenoid (see Voltage Drop Tests)
• Faulty starter button
• Faulty ignition switch (Do other systems function?)
• Faulty starter solenoid or starter motor
• Engine problem - seized or binding (Can engine be
rotated easily with recoil starter?).
Starter Motor Turns Over Slowly
• Battery discharged - low specific gravity
• Excessive circuit resistance - poor connections (see
Voltage Drop Test below)
• Engine problem - seized or binding (Can engine be
rotated easily with recoil starter?)
• Faulty or worn brushes in starter motor
• Automatic compression release inoperative
Starter Motor Turns - Engine Does Not Rotate
• Faulty starter drive
• Faulty starter drive gears or starter motor gear
• Faulty flywheel gear or loose flywheel
8
8.19
ELECTRICAL
Starter System Testing
Condition: Starter motor fails to turn engine. NOTE: Make sure engine crankshaft is free to turn before proceeding with dynamic
testing of starter system. A digital multitester must be used for this test.

Locate the starter relay.

See “Starter Relay”
earlier in this chapter for
location reference

Disconnect the 2-wire connector at

Connect meter Disassemble starter
the starter relay. Set volt meter to
leads to RED lug to motor to test and
read DC voltage and connect meter
YES starter motor and clean internal
leads between the DG/YEL and DG/
engine ground and YES components.
RED wires. Turn the key switch to
retest. If tests fail, or motor
the “START” position, and push in
Is battery voltage still does not work,
the brake pedal.
present? replace assembly.
Is battery voltage present?

NO
NO

Replace starter
relay.
Check battery condition,
Recharge and test
RED battery connections
battery, replace 15A
at relay and 15A fuse. NO
fuse, or repair
connections.
Condition Good?

YES

Check the key switch for

proper function. Turn key to
“START”. NO
Replace key switch and/or
Is there continuity between
check wiring circuits.
DG/RED and BLACK?
Is there continuity between
RED and BROWN?

YES

Set the meter to read Ohms.

Check the function of the foot
NO
brake switch. Replace foot brake
Is there continuity between the DG/ pedal switch.
YEL and BROWN wires when the
foot brake pedal is pressed?

8.20
 WIRE DIAGRAM

2009 RANGER RZR 170

WD-1