CHANEL .

COM
 SOME ENCOUNTERS YOU WEAR FOREVER .
RINGS AND COCO BRACELETS IN BEIGE GOLD, WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS .
 CONTENTS

REGULARS

41 EDITOR’S LETTER

48 NOTICES
Behind the scenes of the issue

88 FORCES FOR CHANGE

Ten years on, Vogue revisits
the tragedy of Rana Plaza.
By Emily Chan

124 CHECKLIST
Springtime shades

225 STOCKISTS

TRENDS

59 SPRING TO ATTENTION
Seasonal, covetable cues
for your wardrobe.
Morgan Porter
wears hoodie, POLO
Edited by Jessica Gerardi. RALPH LAUREN.
Photographs by Philip Messmann. Dress, trainers, and
pocket bags, ANN
Styling by Eniola Dare
DEMEULEMEESTER,
in TRENDS, page 59
SPOTLIGHT

74 POETRY IN MOTION
An ode to tailoring.
By Sarah Harris
SUSTAINABILITY

77 VOGUE DARLING
Meet musician Highlyy.
84 OUT OF THE WOODS
The matter of eco fabrics.
By Dana Thomas
By Amel Mukhtar
LIVING
JEWELLERY

79 LIKE A PRAYER
Heavenly crosses.
92 LIFE & STYLE
By Julia Sarr-Jamois

By Rachel Garrahan
95 SHOPPING SPECIAL
Edited by Jessica Gerardi

81 RIBBON CEREMONY
Bows to tie your next
look together.
ARTS & CULTURE

116
By Rachel Garrahan WHEN STARS COLLIDE
Hollywood legends take
on Hamlet in Sam Mendes’s
new play at the National.
COVER LOOK By Hayley Maitland
From left: Jill Kortleve, Precious Lee and Paloma Elsesser
all wear fine-viscose column dress, satin sandals, and
jewellery (unless otherwise stated), SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO. Satin body, SPANX.
VIEWPOINT
Precious wears vintage large gold tone cuff, RELLIK.

118 SWEETEST TABOO

Gold-plated ripple cuff, ELIZABETH HOOPER
STUDIO. Paloma wears gold-vermeil open cuff,
CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS. Brass bangles, Looking back on an affair
DINOSAUR DESIGNS. Get the look: make-up by with a younger man.
ZARA BEAUTY. Eyes: Magic Glaze Eye Shadow and
Cosmic Mascara. Lips: Jill wears Stiletto Demi-Matte By Annie Ernaux
Lipstick in La Journée. Precious and Paloma wear
Ultimatte Matte Lipstick in Giddy and Nourishing Jelly
Lip Oil in Exquisite. Skin: Limitless Soft-Matte ARCHIVE
Foundation. Jill wears Lip & Face Palette in Some Like It
PHILIP MESSMANN

Soft. Precious wears Bronzing Powder in Sublime Intense.

Paloma wears Manifesto Color Stick in Divine. Hair by
NEXXUS. Hair: LACY REDWAY. Make-up: DIANE
KENDAL. Nails: DEBORAH LIPPMANN. Set design:
121 STILL WATERS
Paolo Roversi’s free-flowing
swimwear shoot in April 1984.
JILL NICHOLLS. Photograph: INEZ & VINOODH.
Styling: GABRIELLA KAREFA-JOHNSON By Robin Muir > 30

25
CONTENTS

VOGUE PARTY

122 ROLL OF HONOUR

Inside our annual Fashion
& Film party

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

132 DIRECTOR’S CUT

How to nail a neat manicure.
By Lauren Murdoch-Smith

135 STRONG ENERGY

Emboldened make-up.
By Twiggy Jalloh. Photograph
Emma Corrin leads a dream RED CARPET, page 192

by Adam Goodison

FASHION & FEATURES

136 ONE MORE TIME
Nineties glamour returns.
By Tish Weinstock
164 THE TRINITY
Jill, Precious and Paloma

138 BEAUTY MUSINGS

This month’s new releases.
By Hannah Coates
reach super status.
By Janelle Okwodu. Photographs
by Inez & Vinoodh. Styling by
Gabriella Karefa-Johnson

141 SKINCARE SPECIAL

Edited by Kathleen Baird-Murray
180 WITHIN A BUDDING
GROVE
Natural forms for s/s ’23.
Photographs by Zoë Ghertner.
Styling by Jane How

192 “THE RED CARPET HAS

REALLY GIVEN ME A
CHANCE TO EXPLORE
MY IDENTITY
THROUGH CLOTHING”
Dressing for a night to
remember with Emma
Corrin and co.
Photographs by Will Scarborough.
Styling by Harry Lambert

204 TOP OF THE TOWN

Irina Shayk takes Manhattan
in a go-anywhere blazer.
Photographs by Cass Bird.
Styling by Tabitha Simmons

210 WEST SIDE STORY

Meet the real Central Cee.
By Amel Mukhtar. Photographs
by Adama Jalloh. Styling by
Hanna Kelifa
ZOE GHERTNER; WILL SCARBOROUGH

214
QUIET REFLECTION
Think: understated luxury.
Photographs by Alasdair McLellan.
Styling by Carlos Nazario
Anna Ewers wears top
and miniskirt, LOEWE, VOGUE ASKS
in WITHIN A BUDDING

256
GROVE, page 180 WHAT WOULD LAURA
DERN DO?

30
DISCOVER MORE ON DOLCEGABBANA.COM/BEAUTY
 EDITOR’S LETTER

he arrival of a major new face in modelling is always a thrill to behold.

Runways become re-energised, editorials fizz with new immediacy and a fresh
mood can sweep a fashion month as someone tilts the very notion of how we
want to feel – sometimes, even, of who we are.
From Twiggy to Jerry, Naomi to Gisele, past decades have certainly had
models as lightning rods. Rarer still is when three stars collide. The last time it
happened in such a definable manner was, of course, “The Trinity” of the late
1980s and early 1990s, when Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell and Linda
Evangelista united to become the fun-loving, fast-living, impossibly magnetic
embodiment of fashion itself. Later joined by the likes of Claudia Schiffer, Kate
Moss and others, their energy and beauty ricocheted through the end of one
century and into a new one as they became a byword for style itself.
And now, some 30 years on from that inception moment, modern fashion
watchers will be aware that the past few seasons have brought another trio to
global attention. With a shared mission born from friendship, and squarely
Above, from left: meet plugged into the revolutionary energy of the current zeitgeist, this month’s
the “New Supers”,
as models JILL cover crowns the rise of three extraordinary models.
KORTLEVE,
Paloma Elsesser, Jill Kortleve and Precious Lee are three exceptional
INEZ & VINOODH

PALOMA
ELSESSER and
PRECIOUS LEE women whose beauty is only one building block in the powerful space they now
star in The Trinity,
on page 164 hold in the fashion industry. From catwalks to campaigns, for designers > 44
41
EDITOR’S LETTER

such as Donatella Versace and Marc Jacobs,

they have become the go-to faces when it
comes to resonating with modern women
the world over. More than inspiring trends
and selling products, however, Jill, Precious
and Paloma are leading the way.
So what does this new modelling trinity
have to say about our times? What ephemeral
combination of identity, beauty and
personality have combined to make them feel
so very now? On page 164, writer Janelle
Okwodu speaks to the girls of the moment,
while photographers Inez van Lamsweerde
and Vinoodh Matadin join forces with fashion
editor Gabriella Karefa-Johnson to create a
series of stunning fashion portraits. As Lee
puts it: “How often do girls see a [US] size 16
brown, chocolate girl jumping through the air
on a Vogue cover or being called a supermodel?
None of us aspired to a title [per se], but
Above: model
IRINA SHAYK, inspiring others on this level is powerful.”
on page 204, is
photographed in New Elsewhere, the joy of spring is in full effect,
York City. Right: on
page 210, Vogue enters from Irina Shayk showcasing an easy seasonal style
the world of rising rap
star CENTRAL CEE on the streets of Manhattan to actor Emma Corrin
and friends indulging in the best red-carpet looks
under the watchful eye of stylist, and current prince
of premiere dressing, Harry Lambert. On page 118,
recent Nobel Prize winner Annie Ernaux takes us
on an erotic and emotional trip down memory lane,
while on page 210 Vogue has an exclusive audience
with the UK’s new emperor of rap: the one and only
Central Cee, a true modern poet. Enjoy.
CASS BIRD; ADAMA JALLOH

44
NOTICES

Janelle Okwodu
Adorned in Saint Laurent, models Jill Kortleve, Precious
Lee and Paloma Elsesser are crowned the “New Supers”

Adama Jalloh on this month’s cover. On page 164, Janelle Okwodu chats
with the trio about friendship and future plans beyond
modelling. “I couldn’t help but admire how thoughtfully
On page 210, photographer Adama Jalloh shoots they approached success, how they found strength by
portraits of Central Cee, as the hyped drill rapper uplifting each other,” the writer says of meeting them.
tells Vogue about his childhood, his relationships
and his newfound fame. “He was calm and open,”
she says of the shoot. “It was great getting more of
an insight on things centred around family, friends
and his artistic expression.”

MEET
& GREET
Introducing THE
FACES BEHIND
this month’s ISSUE

ANNIE ERNAUX
Nobel Prize-winning author
Annie Ernaux shares with

CASS BIRD
Vogue, on page 118, the first
translated extract from her book
COMPILED BY CHEYENNE DARKO. HUNTER ABRAMS; RICHARD DOWKER;

The Young Man, out in the UK

later this year, detailing the
esteemed writer’s historic affair When Cass Bird was tasked with capturing Irina
with a man 30 years her junior. Shayk, as she modelled a Gucci blazer on the
“He tore me away from my streets of New York, on page 204, things didn’t get
generation, but I was not part of off to the perfect start. “The weather was crappy,”
his,” she says of the relationship. the photographer says, “but we just went with it.”
ANDREW JACOBS; ADAMA JALLOH; GETTY IMAGES

A day of spontaneity followed. “Irina should

be known equally for her humour as for her
beauty. She is utterly captivating.”

Harry Lambert
Stylist Harry Lambert decks regular collaborator Emma
Corrin and others out in red carpet-worthy looks on page
192, before opening up about identity, fashion and
sartorial self-expression. “When I was 22, I interned at
British Vogue for a month in the fashion department,”
Lambert says. “To now be shooting for the magazine,
14 years later, is a very special moment for me.”

48
SS23 CAMPAIGN
GIGI HADID
PHOTOGRAPHED BY HEJI SHIN
Enjoy responsibly. Over 18s only.
 EDWARD ENNINFUL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & EUROPEAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

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All pistons GO
SPEED into s/s ’23! Our get-ups are SHIFTING gear Denim, £700,
thanks to the wardrobe-winning MOTOCROSS jacket ISABEL MARANT
PHILIP MESSMANN; GORUNWAY.COM; PIXELATE.BIZ

Leather and denim,

Leather, from £3,468, Leather, £2,000, from £3,400,
1017 ALYX 9SM KNWLS VERSACE

63
TRENDS

In hood SHAPE
An EXERCISE in elegance. The sportswear STAPLE excels
in sophistication when STYLED with party HEELS

Reversible trench
coat, £2,750. Hoodie,
£890. Dress, £2,900.
Shoes, £890.
All MAISON
MARGIELA

“It’s time for

CASHMERE
sweaters to step
aside. The
HOODIE just
became the
COOLEST
laid-back layer. Just
add ATTITUDEÓ
LAURA HAWKINS,
FASHION FEATURES EDITOR

PHILIP MESSMANN; PIXELATE.BIZ

Above, from top: cotton, £200, HEAVEN BY

MARC JACOBS. Cashmere, £1,805, LORO
PIANA, at Mrporter.com. Cotton, £128,
PALACE. Right, from left: cotton, £264,
JW ANDERSON, at Mytheresa.com. Cotton,
£1,620, PRADA, at Matchesfashion.com

64
TRENDS

Opposite, from left: look one, coat, £7,985.

Jacket, £5,625. Trousers, £3,075. All
CHANEL. Sandals, from £319, STUDIO
AMELIA. Look two, coat, £1,495. Shirt,
£495. Shoes, from a selection. All
16ARLINGTON. Look three, coat, £4,850.
Shirt, £1,100. Shorts, £830. Trainers, £800.
All THE ROW. Men’s socks, £20, FALKE

VETEMENTS

Gaberdine,
£4,510, GUCCI
SAINT LAURENT

Easy
LANVIN

GLIDER
Take the FLOOR this season in
a SWEEPING statement. Wool, from
GROUND level looks are going UP £934, BEARE
PARK. Above:
faux leather,
£775,
REJINA PYO

Marquisette,
£3,500,
DOLCE &
GABBANA
MAX MARA

PHILIP MESSMANN; GORUNWAY.COM; PIXELATE.BIZ

PETER DO

Above, from left: wool mix, £351,

TOD’S

MUSIER PARIS, at Luisaviaroma.com. Leather, £3,165,

DAVID KOMA, at Net-a-porter.com

68
 Hold your
OWN
LADYLIKE or laid-
back luxe, any STYLE
PERSONALITY is
within reach with a
compact BAG tucked
under the ARM

Jacket, £5,100. Layered tops,

from £610 each. Leather bag,
£1,900. All MIU MIU
 TRENDS

Above: leather, £1,710,

BOTTEGA VENETA.
Right: jewelled leather,
£995, 16ARLINGTON.
Above right: patent
leather, £1,400,
GIORGIO ARMANI

Above: jacquard,
£1,700, PRADA,
at Matchesfashion.
com. Left: leather,
£750, JW
ANDERSON

Leather, £650,
MOWALOLA
PHILIP MESSMANN; PIXELATE.BIZ

Halterneck dress,
£5,200. Leather
bag, £2,090. Ear
cuffs, £520. All
ALEXANDER
McQUEEN
Leather, £400,
MANU ATELIER

71
TRENDS
Clockwise from left:
leather, £395.
Embellished denim,
£455. Leather, from
a selection. All JW
ANDERSON

On
POINTE
BALLET pumps take
first position. We’re in
a SPIN over the delicate
dance FLAT setting the
barre HIGH

Leather,
£785,
CHANEL PHILIP MESSMANN; PIXELATE.BIZ

Clockwise from top: leather, £175, REPETTO. Leather,

£525, SIMONE ROCHA. Leather, £690, THE ROW,
at Matchesfashion.com. Leather, £590, MOLLY
GODDARD. Satin, £470, MM6 MAISON MARGIELA

72
 Sarah Harris wears her
own Wardrobe NYC suit,
with shirt by Ann
Demeulemeester and
Jimmy Choo shoes.
Hair: JOSH KNIGHT.
Make-up: LUCY BURT.
Nails: CHIARA
BALLISAI. Digital
artwork: CHARLOTTE
STEVENS

POETRY
in MOTION
Spring/summer’s ODE to tailoring
pairs BELGIAN influences with a
timely tenderness. SARAH HARRIS
reflects on a FITTING tribute.
Photograph by BUZZ WHITE.
Styling by JESSICA GERARDI

he idea of a day dress doesn’t – and has never – existed
in my wardrobe. Oh, but they’re so easy, everyone says. Slip
it on, and off you go! But what shoes? Tights, or bare-
legged? What underwear – and then what on earth goes
over the top? A cardigan seems trite. A jacket? Sure, but
what kind of jacket? Once you’ve overcome those
challenges, you have to adhere to some basic behavioural
codes, like how to sit, presumably upright, with legs
crossed. (You certainly can’t sit slouched in a chair or
with your legs remotely apart.) Frankly, it’s a minefield
– and one that, yes, even as a Vogue editor, I’ve never had
the patience nor the desire to navigate.
Tailoring, on the other hand, makes a whole lot of
sense: a two-piece solution that works for anything,
anywhere, in any season, where the only decision required
is whether to wear it with a white T-shirt or a white
shirt (or, perhaps, with nothing at all). I’ve always loved
an oversized shape with roomy, mannish pleat-front
trousers that sit low on the waist and pool a little – the
hems scrunching up over chunky flat boots while also

74
 SPOTLIGHT

long enough to accommodate a heel – and I lean toward a

shoulder line so broad that it announces your arrival into
a room a good while before the rest of yourself slips in.
Happily, we’ve seen a big tailoring resurgence lately, The SUIT is what I reach for
particularly of the edgy and mostly monochrome kind
favoured by influential avant-garde Belgian designers when I can’t DECIDE what to
of the ’90s. Ann Demeulemeester and Martin Margiela, wear – to the OFFICE, to a fashion
among others, did things their way, disrupting beauty
ideals while redefining both what luxury fashion meant show, to a BLACK-TIE event

VICTORIA BECKHAM
and what it looked like. At a time when fashion was
fixated on slim, Margiela disturbed proportions to all-
out gigantic. Margiela’s collections were always imbued
with a crafty, playful, DIY spirit: He turned clothes inside
out; he cleverly deconstructed only to reassemble again,
making jackets from pattern paper and layered looks
literally held together by dressmaking pins. (I bought
my first Margiela blazer on eBay with my first paycheque
from working as a Saturday sales assistant at Harvey
surprisingly, height restrictions don’t apply: Centenera’s
diminutive frame is proof that you don’t have to be six-foot-
something to carry off exaggerated proportions. Almost
no one looks as good in her clothes as she does – and
that’s saying something when she’s standing next to
Bieber at Caviar Kaspia later that evening for a dinner
to launch the collection.
I ordered the jacket and overcoat then and there,

STELLA McCARTNEY
Nichols. My local dry cleaner lost it a few years later, and and bought the matching trousers as soon as Net-a-
I still scroll through resale sites in the hope of finding it.) Porter replenished its stock. The suit is exactly what
More basically, there was something terrifically relatable I reach for when I can’t decide what to wear – to the
about Demeulemeester’s and Margiela’s collections – office, to a fashion show, to a black-tie event (just
something probably aided by who they chose to walk their switch out a T-shirt for a rivière). Nothing, but
shows: both were among the first to cast from the street nothing, in your wardrobe will work harder for you
and to use older models. Their designs never felt There are also very few pieces from Peter Do’s
prescriptive; they always seemed imbued with an triumphant collection that I don’t want. Do opened
essence of adaptability that empowered the wearer his almost entirely black and white show with a suit
to decide how she might put them together. comprising a sharp, long-line blazer, elegantly drawn
Demeulemeester’s shirts fell just so from a shoulder, in at the waist and with sleeves stretching to the
suspended by a strap, with ties and tendrils to inflate knuckles, and ballooning trousers. The surprise was
or deflate, while flattering bias cuts encouraged at the back, which he opened up completely with a
PETER DO

movement and worked on all body types. Demeulemeester
tried pieces on herself – especially her androgynous,
several-sizes-up tailoring – until she found that perfect
degree of slouch. (Her starting point: a child dressed in
their grandfather’s clothes.)
The s/s ’23 collections were awash with references:
see Gigi Hadid walking for Victoria Beckham in that
great suit, deconstructed at the back; moody, mannish
tailoring at Burberry; a series of inky all-black looks at
Dries Van Noten; minimal but gargantuan double-breasted
VALENTINO
circular cutout. Deconstruction was a recurring theme:
linings,frayed edges and tacking stitches were all exposed.
Do, a big Margiela fan, learned how to make suits from
scratch in tailoring classes at the Fashion Institute of
Technology. “After that, I was hooked on the process,”
he says. “I was fascinated by the inner construction.
Crucially, Do works on fittings on both men
and women. “The dialogues from those are what
inform our design details,” he explains, adding,
“We’re moving toward sizing in XS through XL,

blazers and breezy white shirts at Stella McCartney. Even instead of numbers, to accommodate a broader
Valentino, it seems, got the bigger-is-better shoulder memo. customer range.” Also of note were Demeulemeester
But we’ve seen big shoulders and boxy tailoring for a few -esque white oversized shirttails, cinched at the
years now, you cry, and you’d be right – but this time back, with an extra long buckled belt left to trail
around it feels softer, more romantic. Even more nonchalantly on the floor. Imagine turning to make
conceptual pieces were threaded with tenderness; an exit in that – a kind of fashion mic drop.
sometimes a hint of a waist came back into focus. After “Everything Ann [Demeulemeester] stood
a few years in which we seem to have been looking for for is still so relevant today,”says Ludovic de Saint
an element of protection from our wardrobes, this Sernin, who will debut his first collection for the label
season’s approach feels more optimistic. during Paris Fashion Week in March. “My vision is to
That’s how I feel wearing one of my recent go back to Ann’s early days; to something very fluid, but
acquisitions: a black suit by Wardrobe NYC, the tightly powerful. I want something that feels more feminine
edited line of luxury essentials cofounded by Christine and poetic. It’s a house that wears a woman’s name, so
Centenera. It’s from a capsule collection codesigned with I really want to honour that.”
DRIES VAN NOTEN

Hailey Bieber and also available in biscuit. “You’d be a
size S or XS,” she tells me in her Paris showroom as she
drapes what looks like – and feels like – an XXXL blazer
over me. There’s just something about the sheer weight
of her tailoring that, yes, makes it hang just so – but that
GORUNWAY.COM
Of course, there’s a lot to be said in favour of going back
to the original source. I recently stumbled across a vintage
Margiela blazer – not my long-lost favourite, but one from
Nick Royal’s archive: oatmeal-coloured linen, elongated,
strong-shouldered and wide-lapelled, and with a cleverly

also feels immediately reassuring, comforting even. curved sleeve that magically skims your every line and
“I’m drawn to strong shoulders and silhouettes,” movement. The jacket is 25 years old, yet it looks better
Centenera says. “I think tailoring frames you in a way that now than it did then. It’s the kind of jacket that, come to
makes you feel powerful, in control, and confident.” Perhaps think of it, one might consider wearing over a day dress.

75
 VOGUE DARLING

Flying
HIGH
Breakout singer HIGHLYY
is finding her own VOICE
Highlyy changed her life with a two-
minute track. The 19-year-old
Londoner, real name Highly Blessed
Mazina, had just dropped out of
music school when she was
encouraged by a friend to write a
song using a sample of “Hustle” by
Reminisce and BNXN. That demo
– “Soldier” – blew up on TikTok.
Rapper Tion Wayne jumped on the
remix. Then Afrobeats giant Oxlade
invited Highlyy on stage to perform
it at a sold-out UK show – her first
ever gig. “Everyone [knew] it word
for word. I couldn’t even hear myself,”
she says. For that first short and
deliciously sweet song, Highlyy sang
in four languages: the French and
Lingala of her Congolese roots, as
well as Yoruba and English. “I love
PRODUCTION: DIANA EASTMAN. DIGITAL ARTWORK: THE HAND OF GOD. DAN BOULTON; SHUTTERSTOCK; PIXELATE.BIZ

to embrace [all] African cultures,”

she says. “The culture in the UK [has
HAIR: MARK FRANCOME PAINTER. MAKE-UP: VERITY CUMMING. NAILS: AMI STREETS. SET DESIGN: JOSH STOVELL.

so many] Nigerians, and Jamaicans

[too], so I like to infuse pidgin,
Yoruba or patois.” In Congo, her
father was a bassist, her mother a
singer – even her grandparents
sing. “They’re so proud,” she says.
AMEL MUKHTAR
Gaberdine trench coat, satin top, and satin
trousers, LOUIS VUITTON. Silver-plated
earrings, LUCY WILLIAMS &
MISSOMA. Photograph: WILLOW
WILLIAMS. Styling: JESSICA GERARDI

“I’m obsessed
with my
cargos from
JADED
LONDON.” “NYX
Trousers, £70 PROFESSIONAL
MAKEUP Can’t
“DIESEL’s Stop Won’t Stop
bandeau is Contour Concealer
so dope.” [£8.50] and
“TIAKOLA, Ayra Top, £230 LAURA
Starr and Asake are the MERCIER
artists I’m most excited “DREAMGIRLS is very inspiring. I love seeing Translucent Loose
about right now.” how people came up. Even though it’s not real, Setting Powder
it’s a real path others went through.” [£34] are the best.”

77
 JEWELLERY

2.

4.

1.
5.
3.

6.

12.

7.

8.
11.

Like a
PRAYER
Saintly or SUBVERSIVE?
10.
Take your pick. Not since
MADONNA wore one in
the ’80s have CROSSES 9.

made such a mark, says

RACHEL GARRAHAN
1. Gold and multicoloured gemstone pendant brooch, VERDURA, at Obsidian. 2. Gold necklace with vintage charms, £9,500, COLETTE.
3. Gold and multicoloured gemstone clip earrings, DOLCE & GABBANA FINE JEWELLERY. 4. Yellow-gold, blackened white-gold and diamond earrings,
JESSICA McCORMACK. 5. Silver and pearl pendant necklace, £410, EMANUELE BICOCCHI, at Luisaviaroma.com. 6. Gold, iolite, garnet, amethyst and
citrine pendant, £4,250, THEO FENNELL. 7. Silver and zirconia pendant, £50, PANDORA. 8. Gold-plated and black-zirconia pendant, £598,
THOMAS SABO. 9. Gold, pearl, mother-of-pearl, pink-sapphire, diamond and turquoise pendant, HARWELL GODFREY. 10. Gold pendant necklace,
£1,400, TIFFANY & CO. 11. Silver pendant, £1,015, CHROME HEARTS & GARETH PUGH. 12. Gold-vermeil pendant necklace, £520,
EMILY FRANCES BARRETT. Prices on request unless otherwise stated. For stockists, see Vogue Information

79
 JEWELLERY

2.

3.
1.

4.

11.

10.

8.

7. 5.

6.

RIBBON
9.
ceremony
Looking to tie UP a
SHOW-STOPPING look
for spring? Take a BOW,
suggests RACHEL
GARRAHAN

1. White-gold and diamond brooch, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY. 2. Platinum and diamond necklace, TASAKI. 3. White-gold, diamond and sapphire
brooch, CINDY CHAO. 4. White-gold and diamond watch, GRAFF. 5. White-gold and diamond ring, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. 6. White-gold, diamond and
sapphire bracelet, DIOR JOAILLERIE. 7. Silver ring, £235, LEO COSTELLOE. 8. Aluminium earrings, from £190, HUGO KREIT. 9. White-gold and
diamond earrings, GUCCI. 10. Crystal, zirconia and rhodium-plated pendant necklace, £115, SWAROVSKI. 11. Recycled aluminium, white gold vermeil,
enamel, spinel and diamond earrings, £1,490, ANABELA CHAN. Prices on request unless otherwise stated. For stockists, see Vogue Information

81
armanibeauty.co.uk Cate Blanchett
SUSTAINABILITY

s we move into Earth Month, it’s a good time

to consider trees. Not only do these majestic
sentinels provide nourishment and shelter,
they also remove and store carbon from the
atmosphere – so much so, in fact, that scientists
believe forests could provide 30 per cent of
the climate change solution. And yet, more
than 15 billion trees are cut down every year
and only five billion are replaced.
Surprisingly, a large swath – 200 million
– are felled for fashion. They are used to
produce cellulosic material, such as rayon and
viscose. “Only 20 to 40 per cent of each tree
is ultimately used; 60 to 80 per cent is waste,”
explains Nicole Rycroft, executive director for
Canopy, a Vancouver-based non-profit
dedicated to protecting forests. But that’s
changing – and fast. There are now roughly
three dozen innovative companies worldwide
(such as Renewcell in Sweden and Worn Again
Technologies in the UK) that are developing
what is known as “next-generation fibres” –
materials made of agricultural residue or
existing material, such as discarded clothes.
Fashion is also helping restore the forests
lost each year. The streetwear company Tentree
has planted more than 100 million trees since
2011 and aims to reach one billion by 2030.
And last year, HM King Charles III’s SMI
Fashion Task Force launched the Himalayan
Regenerative Fashion Living Lab, a €1 million
project (funded by Italian designer Brunello
Cucinelli) to rebuild Himalayan forests and,
in turn, strengthen the cashmere industry.
So far, more than a million trees have been

OUT of
planted, with more to come. “Through this
programme, we have the power to restore the
balance between local communities, nature

the WOODS
and the environment,” says the Task Force’s
chair, Federico Marchetti. “Producing organic
materials through regenerative agriculture can
EMMA SUMMERTON

be more efficient than in the traditional way,

When it comes to FABRICS, fashion needs which will defeat the stereotype that
sustainable fashion is more expensive.” And
to BRANCH out, says DANA THOMAS give us a cleaner, healthier planet.

84
 2 0 2 3
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

23 - 27 APRIL

5 DAYS OF VOGUE BEAUTY is back.

Buy TICKETS now at Eventbrite.co.uk
From tastefully appointed PRIVATE VILLAS to
a WORLD-CLASS SPA, the Maxx Royal
Kemer Resort promises TRUE LUXURY
on the vibrant Turkish coast

I
magine waking from a peaceful sleep in the comfiest
bed imaginable, before walking out on to a sun-soaked
terrace where the waters of your own private pool lap
in the gentle breeze and the Mediterranean sparkles
just beyond. That’s what a stay at Maxx Royal Kemer
Resort on Turkey’s sunny, southern coast has to offer,
bringing together beautiful nature, thoughtful design,
unparalleled facilities and flawless service for an
experience that goes beyond mere luxury.
An elegantly conceived boutique resort with an
ultra all-inclusive concept, Maxx Royal Kemer Resort
ensures your every need is met, and your every
expectation exceeded. Overlooking the glistening, open
sea from its prime perch nestled among the palms,
pines and olive trees, the resort offers ultimate relaxation
and seclusion, with accommodation options ranging
from roomy, perfectly appointed suites to exclusive villas
where you can escape into your own private paradise.
Here, you have everything you need for the perfect
stay, whether that’s your own Jacuzzi, from which to
watch the sun go down, or the multiple ways in which
you can make the space your own – from the pillow
choices and room fragrance menu to a Maxx Assistant
to help you plan your ideal holiday. The wood-clad
architecture and natural stone used in the design of
each villa works in harmony with the nature surrounding
it, while the interiors focus on harmonious hues and
luxurious touches for ultimate comfort.
And that’s just the accommodation itself. Maxx
Royal Kemer Resort also boasts excellent food and
MAXX ROYAL Kemer Resort
ensures your every need is met, and your
every EXPECTATION EXCEEDED
VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
Opposite: the Royal Beach
Villa at Maxx Royal Kemer
Resort. This page, left:
poolside at the Presidential
Villa. Below: inside a
luxurious Laguna Villa
drink offerings, with everything from fine dining to
relaxed al fresco lunches to whet your appetite. For
something truly memorable, the decadent Azure Japon
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with exclusive service, while the Azure Turk à la carte
restaurant presents a contemporary twist on traditional
Turkish cuisine. And there’s plenty to do to build up
an appetite. Choose between indoor and outdoor
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opportunities for kids and families.
For those determined to escape the fast pace of life
back home, the MaxxWell Spa is a true haven. With
an extensive treatment menu ranging from Rhassoul
mud therapy and traditional Turkish bath experiences
to Ayurvedic massage and unique local therapies, guests
can enjoy pure relaxation in truly idyllic surroundings,
with services tailored to your specific needs. There’s
also the Maxx Well holistic programme for guests who
want to use their time at the resort to renew, reset and
recalibrate, incorporating individual analyses and
consultations to create personalised health and wellness
plans just for you. In short, after a stay at Maxx Royal
Kemer Resort, you’ll leave feeling better than ever.
Discover more and book your stay at Maxxroyal.com,
or email book@maxxroyal.com
 The price of
ILLUSION
A decade on from the
collapse of the RANA
PLAZA garment
factories, EMILY CHAN
asks survivors how far
we’ve REALLY come

C
racks were discovered in Rana Plaza the day before
it collapsed. The shops and bank in the eight-storey
complex on the outskirts of Dhaka, Bangladesh, were
closed on 24 April 2013, though many employees at
the premises’ five garment factories still went to work,
rather than risk losing their pay.
In fact, on that morning, the upper levels of the
imposing, illegally extended building were crammed as
usual. As many as 5,000 workers were there – sewing
buttons, hemming trousers, racing to meet demanding
targets – so that shirts, jeans and dresses could be
shipped off to myriad brands, with Mango, Primark
and Benetton among those linked to the complex.
“When my manager told me there was a big crack,
I panicked and said we should all walk out together,” says
Taslima*, now 31, who worked as a machine operator.
She never got the chance. What happened next made
headlines around the globe. At 8.57am the factory fell
dark. With a terrifying roar, thousands of tonnes of brick
and concrete came crashing down. More than 1,100
workers died, and 2,500 were injured. Many were trapped
under the rubble for days, completely terrified.
As it came to light that these workers were
making clothes for some of the world’s biggest labels,
it sent shockwaves through fashion. Never before had
imbalances in the industry been so apparent: productivity
was being prioritised over employee safety, over their
lives. Change couldn’t come quickly enough.

88

“A pillar fell down in the corridor as we all rushed
out – two people were dead beside me; others were
crying out,” Amena Begum, a sewing operator who took
cover beneath a steel table as the building collapsed, tells
Vogue. Parul Begum, then a knitting operator, remembers
the body of a colleague pressed up against her. “I could
feel blood from their abdomen running on to me,” she
says. “I lost consciousness soon after that.”
“It was devastating,” says Kalpona Akter, executive
director of the Bangladesh Center for Workers Solidarity,
a decade on. She’s part of a wave of campaigners fighting
for fairer working conditions in the country – a nation
whose 4,500 factories export $42.6 billion worth of
fashion every year. Akter – who, now 46, cofounded the
non-profit in 2000 – vividly remembers the horror of
Rana Plaza. She arrived to find thousands of distraught
relatives surrounding the site, clutching photographs of
family members. “You could feel the pain; loved ones and
children crying and screaming,” she says. The campaigner
recalls an indescribable stench in the air. Bodies were
moved to a nearby school, waiting to be identified.
As rescuers worked around the clock to look for
survivors, local labour rights activists helped clear the
rubble with their bare hands, searching for clothing
labels as they went. Kalpona was one of them. “[We
knew] that if they cleaned everything up, we wouldn’t be
able to hold brands responsible,” she says. It wasn’t just
the collapse that Kalpona was desperate for brands to be
held accountable for – it was the working conditions too.
Today, former Rana Plaza staff tell Vogue about being
beaten and verbally abused by bosses. They worked in
cramped, sweltering spaces, sometimes until the early
hours. Some were getting paid as little as 4,600 taka,
around £35, a month and were admonished if they
asked for time off. (In 2014, the minimum wage rose
to 5,300 taka, roughly £40. Amendments were made
to Bangladesh’s labour law after the disaster to improve
working conditions, though campaigners say they don’t
go far enough.) On the day Rana Plaza collapsed, Taslima
had wanted to be on leave – her husband was in hospital,
and she had hoped to be with him – but was told she
would lose her monthly paycheque if she was absent.
Even now this kind of treatment remains
commonplace for garment workers in Bangladesh, says
campaigner Nazma Akter of the Awaj Foundation. She
started at a factory as an 11-year-old, clocking 70 hours
a week in an environment where sexual violence was a
regular occurrence. She says factory safety in Bangladesh
has undoubtedly improved since the Rana Plaza collapse.
Almost 200 brands – including Mango, Primark and
Benetton, which has each expressed regret over the
tragedy, as well as contributing to a compensation fund –
LARRY TOWELL/MAGNUM PHOTOS; GETTY IMAGES
have signed the legally binding International Accord for
Health and Safety in the Textile and Garment Industry
that means suppliers to these retailers are inspected by
*SOME NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED.
independent engineers to check they’re safe. Factory
committees have been introduced too. That said, Nazma
highlights that low wages and a lack of social security
remain a huge challenge for garment workers. The right
for them to organise and collectively bargain also remains
under threat with a crackdown on unions that has seen
some criminalised. “We need to stop the exploitation,”
she says. “We need accountability. Brands don’t face any
penalties or punishments, yet when workers try to raise
FORCES for CHANGE
The IMBALANCE was apparent:
productivity WAS being prioritised
over EMPLOYEE safety
their voices, they lose their jobs, they’re blacklisted, or are
thrown into prison.”
It’s a message that’s echoed internationally. Ayesha
Barenblat started non-profit Remake, based out of San
Francisco, in 2015 to advocate for fair pay for garment
makers. “Why did workers – when there were cracks in
the building – still feel that they had to walk into work
that day?” she asks, her exasperation palpable. “Because of
the lack of a safety net. When you don’t make enough to
save, you have no way to come out of the cycle of poverty.”
This was highlighted at the start of the pandemic, when
an estimated million workers in Bangladesh were laid
off or furloughed without pay. Similarly, scores of Rana
Plaza victims, who were left with injuries that stopped
them from working, are now reliant on compensation
funds and assistance from charities for survival.
Taslima is one of them. She spent hours crushed
under rubble on the day of the collapse and is now
partially paralysed from the waist down. “I’m still in
a lot of pain,” she says. “It’s been really tough. I’ve lost
the ability to do anything on my own.” For others, the
psychological damage has been just as challenging as
their physical injuries. “I suffered panic attacks, and was
terrified of another building collapse,” describes Rashida
Begum, who had to have lower-back surgery following
the disaster and is now being helped by the Trust for
Injured Workers’ Medical Care. Amena and Parul say it’s
their children and grandchildren that keep them going,
amid ongoing medical issues and trauma.
These survivors all have one hope: that nothing like
the Rana Plaza disaster ever takes place again. Barenblat Below: the
aftermath of the
believes that the duty sits with all of us: from factory 2013 collapse of
owners to brands to shoppers. “If people come together the Rana Plaza
globally, change can happen,” she says. For her, the need factory complex in
Bangladesh, in
for progress is as urgent as it was 10 years ago. Lives are which more than
still at stake. As Nazma says: “Workers should not die 1,100 people died
for fashion. They should not go hungry for fashion.”
89
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TOTEME VACCARELLO

When stars COLLIDE
SAM MENDES’s return to the National THEATRE promises
a thrilling showdown between BURTON, Taylor and Gielgud.
HAYLEY MAITLAND meets the cast. Photographs by
WILLOW WILLIAMS. Styling by JESSICA GERARDI
W
hen, one night in Manhattan, 1964, Truman Capote
accepted a ride in Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor’s
limousine after the theatre, the author wasn’t prepared
to find himself at the centre of a mob scene. “Damp,
ghostly faces were flattened against the car’s windows,”
he wrote of the obsessive interest in the couple. “The
whole scene was like a stilled avalanche nothing could
budge.” The crowds would gather the following evening,
and the one after that too; Burton, fresh from starring
alongside Taylor in Cleopatra, had signed on to play
Hamlet on Broadway, and pandemonium raged outside
the Lunt-Fontanne Theatre.
116
From left: Johnny Flynn wears
recycled-cashmere/wool cardigan,
JOHN SMEDLEY. Flannel shirt,
TOM FORD. Wool trousers, PAUL
SMITH. Tuppence Middleton wears wool
coat, MAX MARA. Satin and lace slip
dress, RAEY, at Matchesfashion.com.
Hair: MARK FRANCOME PAINTER.
Make-up: VERITY CUMMING.
Nails: AMI STREETS. Production:
DIANA EASTMAN. Set design:
JOSH STOVELL. Digital artwork:
THE HAND OF GOD
It’s this fraught Shakespeare production – led by
Burton, directed by West End titan John Gielgud, and
underwritten by Taylor’s tangential involvement – that
has inspired director Sam Mendes’s The Motive and
the Cue, opening at the National’s Lyttelton Theatre in
London this spring. It marks the Oscar winner’s first
return to the stage since 2018’s The Lehman Trilogy.
“For me, The Motive and the Cue tries to find answers
to three questions,” Mendes says of the project’s allure.
“Why would the era’s biggest movie star – Richard
Burton – want to spend his honeymoon playing a role
which has already been played by thousands of actors,
 ARTS & CULTURE

while his new wife – Elizabeth Taylor – sits in a hotel the ingredients for a Bloody Mary wherever she went.”
room waiting for him to return? Why do we go back In person, the 36-year-old – recently seen in David
to these plays over and over, and what is the point of Fincher’s Mank and who auditioned for The Motive and
classical theatre at all? What goes on in a rehearsal the Cue shortly after the birth of her first child – more
room when you make theatre, and – if there is conflict closely resembles Taylor than I expected. To her mind,
– is that really such a bad thing?” Elizabeth is the wisest character – summoning Gielgud
Written by Tony winner Jack Thorne, the piece will to her room when tensions with Burton reach a breaking
examine the forces that made Burton’s Hamlet both a point. “She’s the one who’s able to make fun of herself
commercial triumph (with more than 200,000 tickets and to call herself out – she knows what her life is.”
sold over a record-setting 136 performances) and an As for Gatiss, his prep for the role of Geilgud has
interpersonal disaster. In truth, the chaos outside the involved a “certain physical transformation”, and listening
Lunt-Fontanne had nothing on the tumult backstage: to Gielgud’s 1941 Hamlet for the radio. Meanwhile,
Burton clashed bitterly with Gielgud over the staging through his myriad West End connections, he “keeps
ahead of opening night, with Taylor acting as go-between. bumping into people” who knew Gielgud personally. “I
“He wanted to be thought of as [being] in the met somebody in Brasserie Zédel the other day who was
line of great actors like Gielgud,” explains Johnny in his last play. She said, ‘Oh, I knew Johnny. I recorded
Flynn, who stars as Burton, when we meet at Vogue’s him in the dressing room, if you’d like to hear it?’”
photoshoot. “He’s hoping that by working with Sir Soon, a photographer’s assistant appears. The cast
John, he’ll become [like] that, but he’s instinctively are needed back in wardrobe. Within a month, the three
not. He’s kind of like a wild animal, really.” Flynn, by will be deep in rehearsals with Mendes, their every
contrast, is calm – reclining on a leather sofa next to waking thought devoted to Hollywood supernovas and
Tuppence Middleton, set to play Taylor, and Mark Shakespearean tragedy. I recall an earlier comment of
Gatiss, the production’s campy, energetic Gielgud. Flynn’s: “There’s a point in the script when Redfield
We’ve stolen 40 minutes between portraits, and the tries to justify why he’s chosen Hamlet over Hollywood,
rehearsal-like atmosphere – everyone in monochrome, and he says: ‘I wanted to be near greatness – to be part
studio lights, Colorama scrolls – is fitting. Gielgud, at of something great.’ That’s the thing with theatre: it’s
Burton’s suggestion, staged his Hamlet as if it were a ephemeral, and unless you’re there, in the room, you
final run-through, sans traditional costumes, props or never get to witness that magic.”
backdrops – “quite a modern idea at the time”, says Flynn, The Motive and the Cue is at the Lyttelton Theatre from
and something Mendes will reference in his staging. 20 April to 10 June
Despite being known for his work onscreen –
including a turn as Mr Knightley opposite Anya Taylor-
Joy in 2020’s Emma – Flynn is embedded in the world of Mark Gatiss wears
theatre. His late father, an actor, used to play cricket with herringbone coat,
Mendes, while his wife, Beatrice Minns, is a designer for CONNOLLY. Wool
immersive drama company Punchdrunk. rollneck, JOHN
SMEDLEY.
Like Burton in ’64, the 40-year-old’s star is in the For stockists, all pages,
ascendant. Last year, he spent more than eight months see Vogue Information
“rolling around Naples, the Amalfi and Rome” for
Ripley, Steven Zaillian’s eight-part adaptation of Patricia
Highsmith’s Tom Ripley novels, in which he stars as
Dickie Greenleaf. “It’s a bit darker, a bit more wintry,
than the 1999 film,” he teases of his outing as the toyboy
heir opposite Dakota Fanning and Andrew Scott.
Yet Burton seems the sybarite Flynn is most excited
to bring to life. “[Burton and Taylor] were famous in
a way that hadn’t happened [before],” he reflects. Less
than a month before opening night in New York, they
married in a private hotel suite, Elizabeth pinning an
emerald-and-diamond Bulgari brooch to her dress. The
public’s fascination with the couple was at a fever pitch.
Inevitably, when rehearsals for Hamlet began, the
level of intrigue among the cast rivalled that of the
Danish court. The production’s Guildenstern, William
Redfield, would later publish Letters from an Actor about
the blow-ups he witnessed, while Richard L Sterne
(playing the role of “Gentleman”) secreted a recording
device into his briefcase to get material for his own tell-
all. It was the discovery of these two books, both now out
of print, that sparked Mendes’s idea for the production.
Making the situation even more volatile? The sheer
volume of alcohol consumed during the run. “It blew my
mind reading about just how much they drank,” admits
Middleton. “Elizabeth would carry this cabinet with all

117
 Sweetest TABOO
She was a French literary DARLING. He was a student
30 years her JUNIOR. Nobel Prize-winning essayist
ANNIE ERNAUX recalls her most thrilling AFFAIR

118
 VIEWPOINT

not yet unpacked, the bags of provisions

once spent an awkward night with a
student who had been writing to me for
a year and wanted to meet me.
Often I have made love to force
myself to write. I hoped to find in the
fatigue, the dereliction that comes after,
reasons not to expect anything more
from life. I hoped that orgasm, the most
violent end to waiting that can be, would
make me feel certain that there is no
greater pleasure than writing a book.
Perhaps it was the desire to spark the
writing of a book – a task I had hesitated
to undertake because of its immensity
– that prompted me to take A home
for a drink after dinner at a restaurant,
during which, through timidity, he had
remained all but speechless. He was
almost 30 years younger than me.
We saw each other at weekends
and, in between, came to miss each
other more and more. He phoned me
daily from a public phone so as not to
arouse the suspicions of the girl he lived
with. Neither she nor he, caught up in
the routines of a couple living together
too young, and worrying about exams,
REPRODUCED COURTESY FITZCARRALDO EDITIONS AND EDITIONS GALLIMARD.
I had brought, we made love. There would
already be a CD in the player, usually The
Doors, which started to play as soon as
we entered the bedroom. At some point, I
ceased to hear the music.
The powerful chords of “Love Street”
and the voice of Jim Morrison entered
my consciousness again. We remained
lying on the mattress, on the floor. Traffic
was heavy at that hour. The beams of
headlights flickered on the walls of the
room through the high bare windows. I
felt as if I had been lying on a bed since
age 18 and never risen from it – the same
bed but in different places, with different
men, indistinguishable from one another.
His apartment looked out on the
Hôtel-Dieu, decommissioned the year
before and under construction, soon
to become the main prefecture. In the
evening, the windows of the building
were illuminated and often remained
that way throughout the night. The big
square courtyard in front was an expanse
of pale empty shadow behind the closed
iron gates. I looked at the black roofs,
the dome of a church looming in the
background. Apart from the security
guards, there was no longer anyone there.
It was to that place, that hospital, which
I had been transported, as a student, one
January night, because of a haemorrhage
resulting from a backstreet abortion. I no
longer knew in which wing the room I had
occupied for six days was located. There
was, in this astonishing, almost uncanny
coincidence, the sign of a mysterious
encounter and a love story that had to be
lived to the fullest.
On Sunday afternoons when it was
drizzling outside, we stayed in bed, and
eventually dropped off, or faded in and
out of sleep. From the silent street came
He PHONED
me daily from a
PUBLIC phone so
as not to arouse
the SUSPICIONS
of the girl he
LIVED with
of boiling water. The old fridge whose
temperature could not be adjusted froze
the lettuce in the salad drawer. You had to
wear three jumpers to withstand the damp
cold of the high-ceilinged rooms with
their poorly sealed windows, impossible
to heat even with electric heaters that
were ruinously expensive to operate.
He took me to Le Bureau and Big
Ben, cafés frequented by young people.
He treated me to meals at Jumbo. His
favourite radio station was Europe 2.
Every evening he watched Nulle Part
Ailleurs. The people he greeted on the
street were always young, often students.
When he stopped to talk, I stood aside;
they watched me sidelong. Afterwards,
he would relate the academic background
of the guy he had just talked to, with all
the details of his successes and failures.
Sometimes, discreetly, from a distance,
asking me not to turn around, he would
point out a prof from the department of
literature where he studied. He tore me
away from my generation, but I was not
part of his.
The Young Man by Annie Ernaux and
translated by Alison L Strayer (Fitzcarraldo
Editions, £7), is published on 20 September

had ever imagined that making love the voices of rare passers-by, usually
CHRISTOPHER ANDERSON/MAGNUM PHOTOS. COURTESY OF ANNIE ERNAUX

could be anything other than a more or
less slow-motion satisfaction of desire;
that it could be a sort of continuous
creation. The fervour he displayed in the
face of this new discovery bound me to
him more and more. Little by little, the
affair became a relationship which we
longed to take to the limit, without really
knowing what that meant.
When, to my satisfaction and relief,
he broke up with his girlfriend and she
left the apartment, I got into the habit
of staying at his from Friday night to
Monday morning. He lived in Rouen, the
city where I too had lived as a student,
in the ’60s, but for years had only driven
through to visit my parents’ graves. As soon
as I arrived, abandoning in the kitchen,
foreigners from a nearby hostel. Then, I
felt as if I were back in Y, where, as a child,
I would read beside my mother, who had
fallen asleep from exhaustion on her bed,
fully dressed, after Sunday lunch, when
the shop was closed. I became ageless and
drifted between one time and another in
a semiconscious state.
At A’s place, I was transported back
to the discomfort and the makeshift
amenities I too had known when my
husband and I were starting out, as
students. On the electric hotplate, whose
thermostat no longer worked, all that
could be cooked were steaks, always in
danger of sticking to the pan the moment
Writer Annie Ernaux
you put them in, or pots of pasta and rice photographed on the beach in Cabourg,
which overflowed in uncontrollable floods northern France, in May 1994

119
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I
t’s said that Paolo Roversi, the Paris-based
Italian photographer, made such an inglorious
mess of a location shoot many years ago in sun-
blasted Lanzarote that he vowed never to leave
the studio again. And from there, it’s true, he
has rarely strayed.
Amid the brashness and brilliance of the 1980s,
Roversi’s images stood out not just for their pared-
back aesthetic, but for their unfamiliar form. He
was the first to make extensive use of 10x8in
Polaroid film, each shot giving an immediate,
unique print with subtle tonal qualities. It bleached
out skin tones, made colour balance unpredictable
and brought to Vogue’s pages a stillness, due in part
to the long exposure times Roversi has always
preferred. As he considered his fashion pictures to
be portraits, this allowed his images to be, in his
own words, “more touching, more human”.
ARCHIVE
STILL
WATERS
ROBIN MUIR
looks back at the
unusual processes
behind the simple,
ETHEREAL
beauty of PAOLO
ROVERSI’s
swimwear
photoshoot, Vogue
April 1984
The pictures here are outtakes from one of
Roversi’s earliest fashion sittings: a swimwear story,
“Divers New Looks”, styled by then-fashion editor
Grace Coddington. The shoot also produced his
first British Vogue cover, with its star, Elisabetta
Ramella, wearing a linen hood by Issey Miyake
and a swimsuit by Norma Kamali.
Working with Polaroid film resulted in
unforeseen demands on Roversi’s collaborators.
Coddington recalls the instant prints – the finished
articles – springing to life: “Not only did I have to
be quick to react, I realised that if I didn’t speak
up immediately, there could be no excuse later…”
Decades on, the digital process has brought a
similar immediacy back to fashion photography,
and the irony is not lost on Coddington. “Forty
years ago, it might just be me looking at those rows
of Polaroids hanging up to dry,” she remembers.
“Now, everyone on set is a director!”
Roversi was widely imitated, but left his
copyists behind, turning his fashion pictures into
miniature works of art. “You see, with Paolo, it was
only ever about photography,” says Coddington.
“He really, really loves the camera.”
121
 Eddie
Redmayne
and Ariana
DeBose

Edward
Enninful and
RuPaul

Jamie
Foxx Jodie Turner-Smith Florence Pugh

Alexandra
Daddario

Adut Akech

Jourdan Dunn, Edward

Enninful and Anna Wintour Winnie Harlow Baz Luhrmann

Letitia Griff and

Wright Margaret Zhang
MARCO BAHLER; DARREN GERRISH;
JAMES D KELLY; GERMAN LARKIN

Lily Serena Williams and

Allen Naomi Campbell Ncuti Gatwa

122
 Neelam Gill
VOGUE PARTY

Nicola
Coughlan

Rajni Jacques
and Pearl Lee

Jourdan Dunn,
Edward Enninful and
Yasmin Finney Gabriels Anya Taylor-Joy

ROLL of HONOUR
British Vogue’s annual FASHION &
FILM PARTY salutes awards SEASON
Simone Ashley,
with an eclectic ALL-STAR cast
Anya Taylor-Joy
and FKA Twigs At London’s Annabel’s, a flurry of the world’s most famous partied
until the early hours for British Vogue’s 2023 Fashion & Film Party.
Held in partnership with Tiffany & Co and hosted by Edward
Enninful – alongside Jourdan Dunn and Anya Taylor-Joy, who both
Lily James wore pieces from the jewellery house – the Baftas after-bash, at the
decadent members’ club, was one of old-school R&B bangers and
extremely enviable fashion (Dunn, alone, donned three heavenly
Emma
Raducanu looks: first a shimmering floor-length gown, then a golden archival
number, before finally switching to a sheer mesh dress as the party
got going). Upstairs, amid heaving displays of Blooming Haus flowers
and with DJ Tiffany Calver setting the mood, the likes of Florence
Pugh, Joan Collins and Serena Williams rubbed shoulders.
Meanwhile, in the sparkling basement, a performance from Gabriels,
as well as DJ sets from Fat Tony and Hale Zero, had Jamie Foxx,
Vanessa Kingori Winnie Harlow and Letitia Wright dancing the night away.

123
CHECKLIST

LAURA MERCIER
Real Flawless
Coat, from £5,193, Weightless Perfecting
LORO PIANA Foundation, £38
Vogue, June 2020

Bag, £1,200,
DOLCE & GABBANA

Bag, £1,665, SAINT

LAURENT BY
ANTHONY
VACCARELLO

Sweater, £740,
RALPH LAUREN
COLLECTION
SET DESIGN: JEMIMA HETHERINGTON

Sandals, £675,
JIMMY CHOO
Watch, £16,400,
Skirt, from £1,740,
BREITLING
GUCCI
STATUS UPDATE
True icons are well
acquainted with the power of
a little reinvention. Take, for
instance, Dior’s Lady 95.22,
dreamt up by artistic director
Maria Grazia Chiuri, which
explores the Lady Dior’s softer
side – and in doing so
affirms its timeless allure.

Bag, £5,400, DIOR

SHADES of SPRING
Whether PALE and playful or moody and METALLIC, let your COLOURS fly.
Edited by HOLLY TOMALIN. Photographs by MATTHEW SHAVE
GIORGIO ON MY MIND
After a truly great, go-with-
anything bag? Hold that
thought – literally. So much
about Giorgio Armani’s La
Prima charcoal satchel looks
right for now, from the
grab-and-go top handle and
gold hardware details to the
MATTHEW SHAVE

detachable shoulder strap.

Bag, £980, GIORGIO

ARMANI
 CHECKLIST
Bag, £3,135,
CHANEL

Bracelet, £450,
VERSACE

Lamp, £230,
TOM DIXON

Vogue, October 2020

Dress, £4,955, Bag, £3,350,

MICHAEL KORS FENDI
COLLECTION

DOLCE &
GABBANA Q eau
de parfum, £86

Sandals,
Bra, £39, from £726,
INTIMISSIMI GIVENCHY
Fresh Skin Foundations
Award-winning formulas boosted with botanicals and skincare.

FIND YOU R SH A DE AT C HA NTECAILLE .CO.U K

LEO KRUMBACHER/BLAUBLUT EDITION

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

EDITED BY LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH
 DIRECTOR’S CUT
BIO SCULPTURE ETHOS
VITAMIN DOSE, £12
Sometimes even the best
manicures need a refresh, which
is where this product helps. Use
the pipette to drop a dose of the
vitamin formula on each nail and
rub in to revive and nourish
cuticles and polish. Think of it as
skincare for your nails.
NAVY PROFESSIONAL BERYL BASIC NIPS, £36.
DORIS CURVED MANICURE TOOL, £42
DIOR DISSOLVANT Navy Professional’s viral gold nail tools are not only
ABRICOT, £19 good to look at, they’re professional grade and
This gentle nail varnish remover great at what they do. Keep nails neatly trimmed or
from Dior is not only pretty help push back well-kept cuticles with the tools and
enough to leave on display, it manage your manicure in between appointments.
cares for your nails with apricot
concentrate. Most notably, it
smells acceptable – even
pleasant – which is unusual for
regular polish removers.

HERMES LES MAINS HERMES

NOURISHING OIL, £50.

SHOW of
NAIL FILES, £45 FOR 12
There’s cuticle oil and then there’s
Les Main Hermès Nourishing

HANDS
Oil. Luxurious inside and out,
apply this religiously to benefit
from the formula’s five oils that
will help protect your polish.
For extra points, keep nails neat
with an iconic orange file. As the trend for super
CLEAN, perfectly
PARED-BACK nails
continues into the new
season, LAUREN
MURDOCH-SMITH
points to the MANICURE
must-haves

SENSAI CELLULAR
PERFORMANCE INTENSIVE
PHILIPP JELENSKA/TRUNK ARCHIVE; PIXELATE.BIZ

HAND TREATMENT, £72.

TREATMENT GLOVES, £25
For an extremely luxurious but
hard-working hand cream,
Sensai have reformulated
its bestselling, and highly
hydrating, hand treatment, CHANEL LE VERNIS IN
which works to keep skin soft WATERMELON, £25
and protected using Japanese The colour of the season?
Koishimaru silk and squalene. Look no further than Chanel’s
After application, slip on the Watermelon hue. On hands or
cotton Treatment Gloves to feet, this bright shade is flattering,
intensify the treatment. fun and ideal for spring.

133
 Hyaluronic Acid
& Niacinamide
Acts on the cause &
visible signs of ageing**

Eau Thermale Avène, Need some

the confidence of healthy skin. expert advice?
 BEAUTY

STRONG
ENERGY
Get your daily dose of DOPAMINE
with COLOURFUL cosmetics,
says TWIGGY JALLOH.
Photograph by ADAM GOODISON
SET DESIGN: IMOGEN FROST. DIGITAL ARTWORK: DAVID WOOD

Clockwise from top left: ISAMAYA Wild Star Palette, £85. CAROLINA HERRERA The Compact Case in Green Waves, from £24.
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Rouge Louboutin Refillable Lipstick in SooooO… Glow, from £44. DRIES VAN NOTEN Refillable
Lipstick in Plastic Pink, from £62. HERMES Rouge Hermès Lipstick in Corail Parasol, £62
BEAUTY

ONE MORE TIME

Frosted eyelids, ombré and OVER-LINED lips… the beauty markers
of THE 1990S are back. TISH WEINSTOCK reports on the revival.
Photograph by MATT HEALY. Styling by JESSICA GERARDI

But that’s not to eclipse the glamour of the period. “There was
also very full-on gorgeous make-up à la Linda Evangelista,” notes
make-up maven Mary Greenwell, who was responsible for some of
the most iconic Vogue covers of the decade. In fact, it’s precisely this
idea of glamour, reinterpreted through the lens of the authentic self,
that underpins much of the ’90s redux, particularly the ombré, lips,
frosted eyes and high-shine textures currently commanding TikTok.
How might one go about adopting this season’s hottest trend?
e’ve seen echoes of it everywhere: last autumn, Kendall Jenner “Don’t put all of the elements together, it will look too gimmicky,”
took to Instagram with some lapis lazuli lids – a trend made advises Ffrench. “Work in contrasts to keep it modern: skinny
famous some three decades ago by popstars such as Jennifer brows with fresh glowing skin; bronzed cheeks with cute gems on
Lopez and Christina Aguilera; Hailey Bieber showcased a the eyes; lip liner with bleached brows.” “Fantastic skin – always,
monochromatic study in brown on a recent night out in LA; the most important thing is great skin,” adds Greenwell. But for
and Bella Hadid shut down Paris Fashion Week with some Harlow, the key is far simpler: defy all rules and be yourself, as she
Aaliyah-inspired ombré lips. Then there’s model of the moment surmises: “Rules are there to be broken.”
Amelia Gray, who’s been making the case for paper-thin brows.
“There’s something really empowering about the ’90s aesthetic,”
says Gray, who has looked to a young Angelina Jolie as a beauty
blueprint. “It represents this sort of teenage angst. The tattoos,
the piercings, going against the norms.”
Nostalgic references also dominated the s/s ’23 runways. At
Victoria Beckham, high-shine lips elevated barely-there beauty;
at Fendi, eyes were dusted with silver; at Chanel, mahogany lips
brought the drama; at Louis Vuitton, kohl-rimmed eyes tapped
into grunge; and at Dolce & Gabbana, where Kim Kardashian
curated a love letter to the era in which she came of age, Pat
McGrath looked back to the period’s ubiquitous nude pout.
So, what’s driving this current revivalism? Megan Bang, beauty
analyst at trend forecasters WGSN, puts it down to rising climate
anxiety and turbulent geopolitics: “During periods of crisis, people
tend to return to a time of nostalgic comfort.” Certainly, there’s a
rose-tinted appeal to retrospectivity, but why this decade in HAIR: ALFIE SACKETT. MAKE-UP: REBECCA WORDINGHAM. DIGITAL ARTWORK:
particular? For make-up artist Lucia Pica, the ’90s holds something
incredibly personal: “I guess we always revisit the things that have
heavily influenced our formative years, the years in which we rebel
and that we later romanticise.” And yet, much of the ’90s revival
is happening among people who weren’t even born until a decade
OUTPUT LONDON. MODEL: CARA TAYLOR. PIXELATE.BIZ

later, such as Gray. Where does the appeal lie for them?
“The ’90s were about authenticity, natural beauty and playing
with some glamour,” recalls supermodel Amber Valletta. “We were
the antidote to the epoch’s established definition of beauty,” adds
fellow super Shalom Harlow. “We brought the rebelliousness of
the times from the streets to the catwalks. We were rough and raw
around the edges.” Indeed, just like the ’90s was a rebuff of 1980s
excess and abundance – bushy brows, bold blush, eclectic hues – Clockwise from top left: DIOR 5 Couleurs Couture Velvet Limited Edition in Blue
perhaps its revival is a rejection of the photoshopped perfection Velvet, £49. PAT McGRATH LABS Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Primer,
synonymous with the Instagram age. “These days there’s a lot of £40. ISAMAYA Spur Stick in Buck, £22. BYREDO Liquid Lipstick Vinyl in
inauthenticity, contrived and styled identities,” confirms make-up Fantôme, £40. MAC COSMETICS Lip Pencil in Spice, £18. CHANEL
Crayon Sourcils, £23. LANCOME Ombre Hypnôse Stylo in Taupe Quartz, £23.
artist Isamaya Ffrench. “People like to connect with the sense of ESTEE LAUDER Double Wear Stay-in-Place Foundation SPF 10, £37.50.
true self that the ’90s heralded.” CHARLOTTE TILBURY The Super Nudes in Runway Royalty, £27

136
Sleeveless cashmere
sweater, MICHAEL
KORS COLLECTION
BEAUTY

AMERICAN
ACCENTS
An influx of great brands are arriving
from across the Atlantic, starting with
Merit Beauty, a minimalist line of
multitasking make-up. Our pick is the
roll-on cream blush, £30. Meanwhile
this month, New York-based make-up
artist Fara Homidi launches her
perfectly packaged lip products. In
each cornflower-blue compact is a
lip-balm primer and matt lipstick, £76.
And lest we forget LA’s Simihaze
Beauty, whose balmy blush duos,
£37, make skin look lit from within.

Beauty
MUSINGS
HANNAH COATES
highlights the best ways
to update your ROUTINE
this season

ROLL WITH IT
Once considered a product solely for the brave,
there’s now a crop of luxurious and efficient
natural deodorants that forgo aluminium (a
common ingredient used to temporarily block
pores to inhibit sweat). Exhibit one: Glossier’s
XAVI GORDO/TRUNK ARCHIVE; PIXELATE.BIZ

new refillable Deodorant, £18, combines

ingredients such as elderberry extract, coconut

oil and magnesium hydroxide to absorb moisture,
reduce perspiration and make underarms smell
delicious. Other must-tries include AKT The
Deodorant Balm, £19, which is made up of plant-
derived ingredients; the fresh-scented botanical
gel roll-on from Susanne Kaufmann, £25; Pacifica
Beauty Coconut Cream Clean Deodorant, £13;
and Aesop Déodorant Roll-On, £25.
HOME RUN
Forget spring cleaning, these scents will
refresh your space in seconds. From top:
Gloved by Tom Daxon cedarwood room
diffuser, £48. Alighieri Sacred Air incense,
£45. Bella Freud Hot Spell candle, £65.
Voya Oh So candle, £32

138
 TO THE CORE
Pilates is a supermodel favourite for a
reason. A low-impact workout that helps
strengthen even the smallest of muscles, it’s
particularly good for those with injuries.
Get acquainted with these online
platforms: Pilates by Bryony, from
£42 per month; Heartcore at Home,
from £52 per month; and Psycle
at Home, from £29 per month.
 Ultra Vital
New

Our iconic cream revitalises your skin

Our scientists capture the power of CytoPepTM Cellular Extracts - a blend of Collagen, Fibronectin, Actin
and Keratin - structural skin proteins. They improve skin’s elasticity and intensely revitalise skin, boosting its
functions whilst preventing signs of ageing.

An innovative Postbiotics Complex, based on our latest microbiome research, reveals the complexion’s true
radiance and reinforces the skin barrier function against external elements.

Firmer skin – Improved skin elasticity – Visibly reduced wrinkles – Brighter complexion –
Preserved skin microbiome – Moisturized skin – Strengthened skin barrier function

94% ingredients of natural origin

Clinically proven*
After 28 days, % of the panellists showing an improvement of :

100% in radiance
91% in hydration
91% in skin’s barrier function
86% in elasticity
82% in visible firmness

*Tested by an independent laboratory on 22 women aged 38 to 53

 TSUNAINA WEARS RIBBED SILK-KNIT DRESS, MARNI. STYLING: ENIOLA DARE. HAIR: ANNA COFONE.
MAKE-UP: KRISTINA RALPH ANDREWS. NAILS: LIIA ZOTOVA. SET DESIGN: ROXY WALTON

Soft
POWER
Photograph by FELICITY INGRAM
Find your FORMULA for healthy, FRESH skin.
Edited by KATHLEEN BAIRD-MURRAY.
SKINCARE
special
SKINCARE special

Just a PHASE
From PUBERTY to PERIMENOPAUSE, HANNAH COATES discovers
how to align your SKINCARE routine with all stages of your CYCLE.
Photographs by FELICITY INGRAM
“Life etches itself on to our faces as we grow older,” the famous Dutch painter Rembrandt once wrote. He should know, he painted quite
a few, but after more than 300 years these words still ring true. Life really does make its mark upon our faces and, in women, those phases
often dance in tune with our menstrual cycle and the hormonal fluctuations that accompany it. “As our bodies transition to different stages
of life, so should our skincare routines,” dermatologist Mary Sommerlad says. “If skin looks or feels duller, rougher or tighter than usual,
or you’re suffering from blemishes, flakiness or dryness, it’s likely you need to switch up your routine.” While we don’t all experience every
following life stage, we do all undergo shifts in our hormones. So how do we nourish our skin at every point in the life cycle?

PUBERTY
During puberty, the body’s reproductive system awakens and you can expect increased sebum production, blackheads and
inflamed acne spots on the face, chest and back, thanks to changes in testosterone, oestrogen and progesterone. “For some, the
rise in progesterone in the second half of the menstrual cycle will contribute to breakouts in the week before menstruation begins,
while for others it leads to skin and hair looking glossier,” says Sommerlad. While many assume puberty is a time to harness
stripping, foaming cleansers and oil-free moisturisers, dermatologist Sam Bunting advises otherwise. “Somewhere in breakout folklore
someone decided that removing all the moisture from skin would solve blemishes,” she says. “To be clear: it absolutely does not.”
A simple routine is best: employ a nondrying cleanser, a non-comedogenic moisturiser and a sunscreen, plus what Bunting calls
a “preventer”, such as a topical retinoid or azelaic acid, to tackle breakouts at every step of their evolution.

PRENATAL
“Increased oil production is one of the most pronounced features of the prepartum period,” says Bunting. “Progesterone is a
pregnancy-supporting hormone and, like in puberty, some people will experience a glow and others will suffer a blemish-provoking
oil slick.” It is key to choose your active ingredients wisely during this time, forgoing retinoids (which have never been tested on
pregnant women, so can’t be deemed safe) and focusing on things such azelaic acid and niacinamide, as well as benzoyl
peroxide and salicylic acid if you’re prone to spots. “Because melasma is a common occurrence during pregnancy, the simple
practice of wearing a daily sunscreen can help prevent hyperpigmentation and make a big difference to your skin tone,” she says.

POSTPARTUM
Dryness is common in postpartum skin, with many women experiencing eczema and other skin issues due to the hormonal and
immune system changes post-pregnancy. Pigmentation issues and breakouts can also become more prominent. With a lack of time
and less sleep, a successful skincare routine should be simple, effective and quick. “Look for soothing and hydrating ingredients, such
as ceramides and niacinamide,” says Sommerlad, who is also a fan of multitasking azelaic acid, which acts as an antioxidant,
exfoliates and brightens in one. These should help with sleep-deprived skin and any other issues related to the postpartum period.
Meanwhile, Bunting says that the “easiest way to cheat seven hours sleep, when you’ve only had four, is to use a retinoid”.

PERIMENOPAUSE & MENOPAUSE

The drop in oestrogen during the perimenopause and menopause has a significant impact on the skin all over the body, says Fiona
McCarthy, aesthetic doctor and medical oncologist at The Bronte Clinic. “In a 2018 survey of 1,287 French women, 72 per cent
reported that they noticed changes in their skin at this time. The main reason is that there are a lot of oestrogen receptors on the skin
cells, so its depletion has a noticeable effect on the skin,” she says. It also impacts sebum and hyaluronic acid production, which
has a detrimental effect on the skin barrier function, and skin can become dry and itchy. Furthermore, the drop in oestrogen can
result in imbalances in other hormones elsewhere: “This can result in acne, which can be very distressing in midlife, especially when
combined with concurrent signs of ageing,” adds McCarthy. Her tips include avoiding soap, hot baths and showers, and adding
in gentle, soap-free cleansers, a polyhydroxy acid exfoliant and an antioxidant, such as vitamin C, to stimulate collagen and protect
against free radicals. Seek out ceramide, cholesterol and fatty acid-rich moisturisers to improve skin barrier function, and ensure you
incorporate a retinoid into your routine to reduce signs of photo-ageing and boost collagen production. “SPF is the most important
step because it minimises further collagen breakdown – apply it regularly during the day.” And finally? With so many brands now
offering menopause-specific formulas, know that you don’t need a product to say “menopause” on it for it to work.
Jacquard knit sweater,
SCHIAPARELLI.
Knickers, STRIPE
& STARE
For a glow that lasts
 SKINCARE special

Smooth OPERATOR
FELICITY INGRAM; PIXELATE.BIZ

Can RETINOL pack its WRINKLE-REDUCING power without

the irritation? CHLOE MALLE test drives a new GENERATION
of formulas EXPERTLY designed to be KINDER to the SKIN
SKINCARE special
oon after I had my second child, and the tight,
brioche-bun sheen of pregnancy skin had faded,
I saw a meme on the Instagram Stories of a
younger friend’s younger sister: “If The OC was
your favourite show in 2004, it’s time to add
retinol to your skincare routine,” it read over a
cast photo of the beloved early 2000s high-
school dramedy. I was a little too old to be
gripped by Mischa Barton’s teenage shenanigans,
but the reference immediately aged me. That’s
likely due to the fact that at 37 I am starting to
seriously think about wrinkles – and how to
get rid of them. But there also seems to be a
retinol renaissance afoot thanks to new
technology, green and clean formulas, and, of
course, the medical school of TikTok.
It’s kind of like how Viagra’s intended use
was to treat hypertension, Elisabeth Bouhadana
confirms of retinol’s origin story via Zoom from
her lab in Clichy, France: 30 years ago the
rampant dispatch of Retin-A – also known as
retinoic acid or tretinoin in its prescription-
grade form – as an oil-reducing acne solution
inadvertently led to retinol’s discovery as a
panacea for optimising both skin tone and
texture. Wearing a crisp lab coat, the biochemist
and L’Oréal Paris international scientific
“Being able to have these INGREDIENTS in very sensorial FORMULAS, which
are also perfectly TOLERATED by most skin types, is really the REVOLUTION”
From left: VICHY LiftActiv Retinol Specialist Serum, £42.50. DERMALOGICA Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum, £89. MEDIK8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye 6,
£54. BEAUTY PIE Youthbomb Double Retinol-Action Skin Overhaul Serum, from £44. DR SAM’S Flawless Nightly Pro Serum, £60
director is giving me a quick overview of the
ingredient, which is often used as a blanket
term for a larger group of vitamin A derivatives
called retinoids. “It accelerates the rate at which
the new cells migrate onto the surface and
stimulate messengers, which then tell the cells
to produce more collagen,” she explains.
“It’s the gold standard,” adds Marie-
Veronique Nadeau, a chemist and the creator
of her namesake natural skincare line. Nadeau
and her business partner, holistic skincare
expert Kristina Holey, have signed on to a call
with me from their homes in San Francisco to
talk about their recently launched Multi-
Retinol Night Emulsion, which is billed as a
clean, microbiome-friendly replacement for
prescription retinoids. As someone who has
been hesitant to try retinol for fear of a bad
reaction (redness, flaky-dry skin), I find the
product particularly appealing because of a
general approach that Holey describes as
respectful of the skin’s delicate moisture barrier.
Holey and Nadeau have deployed a new
class of “alt-retinols” – gentle, plant-based
alternatives that often complement the hard
stuff. “They can enhance retinol to make it work
more efficiently,” Holey explains of ingredients
such as bakuchiol, which is derived from the
anti-inflammatory babchi plant. Their emulsion
also includes retinyl sunflowerseedate, another
alternative that works to support the skin’s
barrier function. “It’s an easier way to acclimatise
to a very active ingredient,” explains Nadeau.
But do these alternatives actually do
anything? “I’d rather you use something less
aggressive more consistently, so you get some
FIRM FAVOURITES
benefit,”suggests New York-based dermatologist
Shereene Idriss. I meet Idriss at her sleek
Manhattan office, her forehead as smooth as
the skating rink below. I repeat my concerns of
a possible reaction but she assures me that new
timed-release formulations for slower, gentler
absorption will likely prevent that from
happening. She recommends trying low
concentrations in over-the-counter formulas,
such as SkinMedica’s Retinol Complex 0.25%,
once a week, then gradually increasing the
frequency to every night. “Being able to have
these ingredients in very sensorial formulas,
which are also perfectly tolerated by most skin
types, is really the revolution,” Bouhadana says,
shouting out L’Oréal’s Revitalift Derm
Intensives 0.3% Pure Retinol Serum, which
also incorporates hydrating hyaluronic acid.
Less than two months after beginning my
own retinol experience, with no irritation to
speak of, I can’t help but agree. The skin above
my brows appears less crinkled too; my aunt,
who is prone to hyperbole, recently confirmed
as much. “Look at your baby skin,” she said as
I held my daughter, now 10 months. “You two
look the same!” An exaggeration, yes, but
validating enough to help me brush off another
triggering meme I saw a few weeks later,
one that time-stamped various TV doctors’
popularity and assigned skin treatments to their
respective ageing audiences: if you loved Grey’s
Anatomy’s Meredith Grey, retinoids; ER-era
George Clooney, Botox; Doogie Howser, fillers;
Hawkeye from Mash, skin-tightening devices.
I’ve always been team Meredith Grey, I thought
to myself, as I casually scrolled on.
PIXELATE.BIZ
 VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

From left: SENSAI

Absolute Silk Cleansing
Milk, £70. Absolute Silk
Micro Mousse Wash, £75

daily skincare routine is an important way to cleanse and

nourish your skin, but it can also become an enjoyable
ritual to look forward to. For Sensai, the skincare brand
inspired by the unique spirituality of Japanese beauty and
tradition, this discipline is of utmost importance. Sensai’s
Saho skincare ritual pays tribute to the code of etiquette
for the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, achieving flawless
skin through daily repetition of the same considered steps.
Key to this is double cleansing, which is why Sensai
has formulated two new rejuvenating cleansers as part
of its Absolute Silk collection – the purest embodiment
of the luxurious Koishimaru Silk that underpins the brand.
Forget harsh gels or abrasive scrubs, Sensai’s double-
cleansing ritual is all about decadent textures, exemplary
ingredients and an immersive sensorial experience
designed to leave skin supple and silky soft.
The Absolute Silk Cleansing Milk is a wipe-off
cleanser with an indulgent, milky texture, which carefully
removes make-up and impurities. Olive oil, jojoba seed
oil and squalane support its replenishing and rebalancing
cleansing action without leaving an oily residue. Then
comes the Absolute Silk Micro Mousse Wash, a whipped
cream-like mousse with carbonic acid microbubbles to
energise, purify and visibly refine pores.
The ingredient behind the smooth skin you’re left
with? Koishimaru Silk. Capable of supporting the skin’s
own production of hyaluronic acid, it’s at the heart of
Sensai products, including Absolute Silk’s moisturising
duo, the Micro Mousse Treatment Lotion, £149, followed
by the Fluid, £149, or Cream, £149. Used together, they
exemplify the beauty, care and consideration of the Saho
ritual, and its unparalleled results.
Available from April at Harrods and at Sensai-cosmetics.com,
where you can also receive a personalised digital consultation
using Sensai’s Silk Skin Checker. For more information, follow
@sensaibeauty on Instagram

As soft as SILK
Embrace the RITUAL of double CLEANSING with two
LUXURIOUS new innovations from SKINCARE brand SENSAI
VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

LA MER The
Moisturizing
Soft Cream,
from £78

A new ICON
LA MER’s innovative
Moisturizing Soft CREAM makes
SKIN feel firmer and plumper

AFTER THE CHILL of winter,

spring is the perfect opportunity to
embrace soft, smooth-feeling skin,
infused with a healthy-looking glow
that matches the golden light of the
season itself. And launching just in
time for these longer, warmer days
is cult skincare brand La Mer’s new
Moisturizing Soft Cream, with a
light, softer-than-soft texture that’s
suitable for all skin types, including
sensitive skin.
Ushering in a new era of profound
rejuvenation, The Moisturizing Soft
Cream introduces the innovative
technology of multi-sized moisture
spheres: billions of orbs that burst on
to the skin and dive deep within
its surface to deliver La Mer’s youth-
renewing Miracle Broth with 3D
precision, exactly where the skin
needs it most. A no-brainer for
skin that feels firmer and plumper, it

*IN CONSUMER TESTING CARRIED OUT ON 128 WOMEN AFTER FOUR WEEKS OF PRODUCT USE
aims to reverse and resist the look of
signs of ageing, by hydrating from
within the skin’s surface. In consumer
testing, 88 per cent said their skin felt
firmer, and 86 per cent said it looked
more youthful*.
Building on a 50-year journey of
discovery, Miracle Broth, La Mer’s
hero ingredient, helps support skin’s
barrier lipids – essential fatty acids
which are vital to keep skin looking
youthful, plump and radiant. The
Moisturizing Soft Cream is available
in myriad sizes – 15ml, 30ml, 60ml,
100ml and 250ml – to cover your
home and travel needs.
Discover your signature moisturiser,
and book a complimentary consultation,
a t C r e m e d e l a m e r. c o. u k / boo k -
your-appointment
 SKINCARE special
Clockwise from top left: DRUNK ELEPHANT
Bouncy Brightfacial, £60. OLEHENRIKSEN
Barrier Booster Orange Ferment Vitamin C
Essence, £36. ROC Multi Correxion Revive
& Glow Daily Serum, £36. YENDY SKIN
Super Shea Moisturiser, £26. DR JART+
Ceramidin Ectoin-Infused Cream, £50

ON THE BRIGHT SIDE

PIXELATE.BIZ

Radiate and ILLUMINATE with an array of GLOW-giving skincare,

says TWIGGY JALLOH. Photograph by BEATE SONNENBERG
149
VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
LISA FRANKLIN 7-Acid
Complex Resurfacing
Solution, £85
hether you’re suffering from rosacea or eczema,
acne or hyperpigmentation, or even just a
distinct lack of luminosity, treating problematic
skin can feel like a minefield at times, which
is why it pays to know the experts to visit for
special attention. Enter award-winning facialist
Lisa Franklin, who makes skincare magic
happen daily at her luxurious private clinic in
London’s Knightsbridge.
As well as being the founder of her
eponymous skincare brand and clinic, Franklin
is also a nutritionist, so approaches skin health
from a 360-degree perspective. She champions
science-backed ingredients, powered by plants,
to nurture the skin and achieve results
simultaneously. With a solid track record of
helping her clients combat their skin issues,
Franklin eschews invasive intervention in favour
of targeted facials that boost skin health. At
Lisa Franklin, there is no such thing as
TEST
of TIME
Whatever your SKINCARE
question, LISA FRANKLIN
has the ANSWER…
“anti-ageing” treatments – the focus is always
on healthy ageing and supporting the skin.
Franklin’s clinically proven skincare line,
which boasts a number of beauty credentials,
utilises biotech to create visible skincare results.
The award-winning collection is home to five
serums that target specific concerns. Those who
are prone to rosacea should try No4 Serum
Calm & Heal, £75, which helps reduce irritation
and redness. If you’re on a quest to address fine
lines and dullness, try No1 Serum Repair &
Protect, £70. And soon to launch, the Biome-
Balancing Cream, £65, will be the perfect
solution for perimenopausal skin.
Still struggling? Franklin’s team of skin
specialists can put together the perfect skincare
routine for your skin and its needs. The yellow
brick road to healthy, luminous skin starts here.
To discover more, visit Lisafranklin.london or
@lisafranklinuk on Instagram
 SKINCARE special
Ribbed silk-knit
dress, MARNI

The
COLLAGEN
collective
How do we keep our COLLAGEN
FELICITY INGRAM; PIXELATE.BIZ

abundant as we get older?

HANNAH COATES explores the
best ways to ACHIEVE impossibly
PILLOWY skin at every AGE

151
SKINCARE special

ow to solve a problem like depleting collagen? The truth

is that as we get older we say a tough farewell to the
collagen stores we inadvertently enjoyed in our youth.
“Collagen is the scaffolding that supports the skin,”
explains dermatologist Emma Craythorne. “It’s a protein.
If you were to press a baby’s cheeks, the skin boings back
– that’s because of the collagen that’s present.” The less
we have – and it’s worth noting it degrades at a rate of
around one per cent a year from our mid-20s – the more
laxity in the skin, and the larger pores and wrinkles appear.
Prevention is better than cure.The more we can inhibit
its breakdown, the better skin will fare as we age. It will
come as no surprise that, “The number one accelerator is
exposure to ultraviolet radiation or UV light,” confirms
Craythorne. There’s a reason why every dermatologist
worships at the altar of broad-spectrum SPF (at least
factor 30), because as well as preventing skin cancer and
hyperpigmentation it’s essential to preserve collagen levels.
When you’ve got the art of preservation nailed, it’s
time to actively pump up your collagen stores. “An easy
at-home route is to use a prescription-grade retinoid,”
says Craythorne. “Vitamin A acts like a hormone and THE SKIN
passes messages to the fibroblasts in the skin’s dermis,
instructing them to switch on and start making more PLUMPERS
collagen and hyaluronic acid,” she says. But if retinoids
are not for you, then vitamin C has also been proven to
synthesise collagen. Diet is key too. “Your body needs
vitamin C, zinc, manganese and copper to produce
collagen, so it’s important to have these in your diet,” says
aesthetic doctor Sophie Shotter.
As for collagen supplements: do they work? With so
many different types on the market, it can be difficult to
know where to start. Collagen is typically absorbed and
distributed via the bloodstream, working its way to the
dermis via other organs that need it. “There it stimulates
fibroblast proliferation, generating the production of fresh
collagen,” explains Anna Lahey, founder of Vida Glow,
who stresses the importance of ingesting a high-quality
hydrolysed marine collagen product. Dermatologists are
typically not huge fans of the supplement category, because
there is no strong evidence to show that collagen peptides
actually make their way directly to the skin. Craythorne
does, however, agree that they are at least a great product
to try for overall skin hydration, when taken regularly.
In the clinic, collagen induction therapy includes
treatments such as microneedling, radiofrequency and
ultrasound skin tightening, as well as laser. “Ablative lasers
burn tiny holes into the skin that have to heal, a process
that prompts collagen production,” explains Craythorne.
Injectables also play a part, with some types of filler (such
as Sculptra) specifically designed to stimulate collagen
production. These create an immediate plumping effect
by their nature (filler is made up of hyaluronic acid
molecules), but also encourage the body’s natural resources Clockwise from top: ELEMIS Pro-Collagen Rose Marine Cream, £94. AVENE Hyaluron
to produce more. Shotter has just introduced a new hybrid Activ B3 Concentrated Plumping Serum, £40. SUMMER FRIDAYS Midnight Ritual
injectable, Allergan’s HArmonyCa, to her practice, which Retinol Renewal Serum, £72. VIDA GLOW Natural Marine Collagen, £39. LIXIRSKIN
PIXELATE.BIZ

Night Switch Phytoestrogen & Peptide, £32. NOBLE PANACEA Vitamin C Booster, £149.
does the same. Over two separate treatments, she pairs QMS MEDICOSMETICS Collagen Concentrate 7-Days System, £128. STRIVECTIN
it with Volite, a skin-boosting hyaluronic acid treatment, Peptide Plump Line Filling Bounce Serum, £69. DE MAMIEL Winter Facial Oil, £85.
to hydrate and smooth texture, and leave skin glowing. TATCHA The Silk Serum, £110

152

Below, from left:
NATURA BISSE
Diamond Glyco
Extreme Peel, £235.
Diamond Cocoon
Sheer Eye, £153
ICONIC PIECES
onsider how your skin looks and feels after
a really incredible spa treatment.
Rejuvenated, brightened, balanced and
hydrated – essentially a lot better than it
did before you arrived. So if you want to
achieve those same excellent results from
your own skincare routine, it makes sense
to turn to a renowned spa-rooted brand
such as Natura Bissé.
Natura Bissé performs an incredible 7.5
million treatments every year, at the most
luxurious hotels and stellar spas around the
world. The brand draws upon the expertise
of its extraordinary aestheticians to create
hardworking skincare that’s a pleasure to
use and – crucially – really works, combining
high concentrations of active ingredients
with beautifully sensorial textures.
Take the bestselling Diamond Extreme
Cream, an iconic anti-ageing formula
launched 20 years ago and still offering
unbeatable results, infused with a unique
Smart Energy Complex to revitalise, lift
and protect as it hydrates. Now in two
beautiful textures, it offers tr ul y
transformative effects.
For 2023, Natura Bissé introduces
another chapter in the Diamond skincare
The collection ACTS
upon DARK spots
for youthful-looking
SKIN that GLOWS
VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
NATURA
BISSE
Diamond
Luminous
Perfecting
Cream, £205
Brighter
FUTURE
NATURA BISSE’s new
Diamond Luminous
COLLECTION further
cements the brand’s
REPUTATION for
spa-informed SKINCARE
story. Diamond Luminous is a new
collection acting upon dark spots and
hyperpigmentation, alongside global anti-
ageing concerns, for youthful-looking skin
that glows. There’s the Perfecting Serum,
£285, a brightening formula that combats
existing dark spots and prevents new ones
from forming. Calling upon hero
ingredients such as niacinamide, prickly
pear extract, carnosine and a cutting-edge
Crystal Illuminating Peptide, it’s also
formulated with four molecular weights of
hyaluronic acid to deliver intense hydration
and improve skin barrier function.
The Perfecting Cream boasts many of
these same ingredients, while the Perfecting
Glowing Mask, £79 – which includes a
Pro-Radiance Brightening Cocktail to
boost luminosity – is a weekly hero designed
to promote smoother, brighter and more
even skin, alongside unparalleled hydration.
Radiance and rejuvenation, bottled.
Discover more and shop at Naturabisse.com
 Satin dress,
PRADA

Saving
FACE
It’s one of our
MOST-ASKED
questions: who’s
your FAVOURITE
FACIALIST?
Here, the VOGUE
beauty team open
their ADDRESS
BOOKS to reveal
whose HEALING
HANDS they’ll
happily submit to,
time after TIME

DIJA AYODELE, London

KEREN BARTOV, London (above) & Israel
WE LOVE Newly arrived in London, Bartov tackles pigmentation,
acne, redness or tired, grey-looking complexions with an array of
machines. Unlike some clinics, every treatment here is bespoke to
WE LOVE A pioneer in the beauty industry, Dija Ayodele
addresses skincare problems with evidence-based solutions that
work. My skin feels safe in her hands and I have learnt so much
from reading her indispensable book, Black Skin: The Definitive
Skincare Guide, about the nuances of Black skin and the
importance of equity in the industry as a whole.
FELICITY INGRAM; PIXELATE.BIZ

what you need. For me, this meant five different machines,
combining intense pulsed light with ultrasound and radiofrequency
for an instant mini-lift effect and an enviable glow.
SKIN LOVES There’s minimal downtime, skin feels tighter and
smoother immediately afterwards, with full results after three weeks
and a plan of action in place for the next six months to get my
pigmentation and redness under control. Kerenbartov.co.uk.
KATHLEEN BAIRD-MURRAY
SKIN LOVES My skincare problems were specifically related to
my adult acne, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, scarring and
overall dullness. As my skin concerns needed a little more TLC,
Ayodele put me on her six-month Skin+ Facial Programme, which
restores skin with the help of peels, microneedling, LED and
mesotherapy. Dealing with my skin issues from the root has been
my saving grace. I can’t wait to finish the programme in time for
summer. Dijaayodele.com. TWIGGY JALLOH
 SKINCARE special

NILAM HOLMES, Milton Keynes

WE LOVE Adored by the A-list (Victoria Beckham, Charlotte Tilbury and Kate Moss
are fans), Nilam Holmes uses cutting-edge technologies to target a catalogue of
different skin concerns, with a particular focus on anti-ageing. “Understanding your
skin properly means you can get the correct skincare to address your concerns.”
SKIN LOVES Over a three-month period, I’ve tried a few sessions of SkinPen, a
special microneedling device, and Collagenwave, which uses an ultrafine needle
to deliver radiofrequency to deeper layers of the skin. An eyebrow wizard (Holmes
founded EyebrowQueen in 2019), at the end of my last session she also spent a
couple of minutes sorting out my brows. Nilamholmes.com. TISH WEINSTOCK

DEBORAH MITCHELL, Shifnal & Telford (right)

WE LOVE HM Queen Consort Camilla is a long-term fan of Deborah Mitchell’s
healing hands and her LIA therapy technique (LIA stands for lymph drainage,
incandescent massage and acupressure). A combination of intuition and subtle
movements allows her to gently stretch the neck or manipulate the skull to tighten
the face. “If people have puffy eyes I can smooth them out by improving the
channels in the nasal passages, allowing them to open up. It’s very scientific and
precise, but also very beautiful and healing.”
SKIN LOVES An instant glow is guaranteed, plus a tightening and lifting effect.
Massage-based, you’ll feel like you’ve been on holiday. Heavenskincare.com. KB-M

KATHARINE MACKENZIE PATERSON, London (right)

WE LOVE Whether you book in with Mackenzie Paterson for a specific skin issue or
just to maintain a healthy-looking complexion, you’ll walk away feeling energised and
healed, thanks to her warm manner and the calming sanctuary of her new Hanover
Square premises. With a combination of facial massage, red light therapy and
microcurrent technology, as well as reflexology, every treatment is unique.
SKIN LOVES I’ve been experiencing bouts of perioral dermatitis, when the skin around
the mouth becomes a bit red, and this has been improved drastically in just one
treatment. A customised cocktail of creams delivered instant results and I’ve seen a
long-lasting difference in my skin. Kmpskin.com. LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH

TERESA TARMEY,
London & Cotswolds (left)
WE LOVE With 25 years experience,
Teresa Tarmey, a celebrity favourite and
the global skincare expert for Dior, is
particularly gifted at troubleshooting
problem skin, from rosacea to acne.
Beyond that, her tranquil West London
clinic – a converted Jewish synagogue
decorated with chic mid-century furniture
– is worth a visit for the vibe alone.
SKIN LOVES With her less-is-more
approach, over the course of a year she
helped strip back my routine, cutting out
vitamin C that was congesting my skin.
“Skincare should be fairly simple in terms
of how many products you need,” she
says. She also helped calm my dermatitis
with LED and sculpted my face to
perfection ahead of my wedding day
with her lactic acid peels and lymphatic
drainage. Teresatarmey.com. TW
VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

THE PASSING OF time is inevitable.
But the effects on your skin? Well, there
are some things we can do about that.
Luxury French skincare brand Institut
Esthederm is revolutionising our
understanding of the science of ageing with
their new Age Proteom Advanced Serum,
which swaps the traditional DNA-centric
approach to ageing for a groundbreaking
protein-centric approach.
Institut Esthederm’s Age Proteom
Advanced Serum acts on all the signs of
ageing that might already be visible on the
skin, as well as slowing down skin ageing
by 49 per cent according to one clinical
study*. This makes it perfect for both
younger and more mature customers,
This UNIQUE formula
slows down SKIN
AGEING by 49 per cent,
as well as ACTING on
EXISTING signs
wrinkles by 26 per cent; loss of firmness by
28 per cent; lack of radiance by 47 per cent;
loss of density by 24 per cent; and uneven
complexion by 32 per cent**. In short, its
goal is to give you a radiant, youthful-
looking complexion for longer.
So how did this groundbreaking
innovation come about? Institut Esthederm
has been working on this product for 12
proteins in our skin for longevity, rather
than the DNA as previously thought. That’s
what led to the creation of Institut
Esthederm’s patented Age Proteom
advanced biotechnology, an extract of a
micro-organism capable of regeneration
under extreme conditions, which boosts the
skin’s ability to repair itself and slow down
skin ageing.
The serum durably protects and
strengthens the proteins in the skin,
including the all-important collagen and
elastin that promote a supple and youthful
appearance. Secondly, the product calls upon
a cellular water patent inspired by the water
naturally present in the skin, which optimises
skin cells’ energy to prolong the appearance

**CLINICAL TEST (SCORING), 55 VOLUNTEERS AGED 42 TO 65, STRESSFUL LIFESTYLE, SHOWING SIGNS OF FATIGUE & PIGMENTATION DISORDERS. TWICE-DAILY APPLICATION (MORNING & EVENING) FOR
*AVERAGE IMPROVEMENT IN THE FIVE SIGNS OF AGEING AFTER ONE MONTH VERSUS A PLACEBO WITH NO BIOLOGICAL EFFECTS AFTER TWO MONTHS. CLINICAL STUDY, SIX MONTHS, 55 VOLUNTEERS.
protecting, perfecting and preventing in one. years – as well as drawing upon 40 years of of youthfulness. It works well alongside

SIX MONTHS. RANDOMISED APPLICATION ONTO ONE HALF OF THE FACE: ON ONE SIDE AGE PROTEOM & NEUTRAL CREAM (TREATED AREA), ON THE OTHER NEUTRAL CREAM ALONE (CONTROL AREA)
In fact, another study found that as well as scientific research – and the key discovery aesthetic medical treatments too and boasts
causing your skin to age twice as slow as it was that it’s all about protecting the a milky-smooth texture that makes it a
would otherwise, the Age Proteom pleasure to use, whatever your age.

E
Advanced Serum tackles all five visible signs Discover more at @institut_esthederm_uki
of ageing: reducing the appearance of

M
on Instagram

TI
WN
W DO

SLOW down skin

O

ageing… INSTITUT
ESTHEDERM’s
L

Age Proteom
S

Advanced SERUM takes an

innovative new
APPROACH

INSTITUT
ESTHEDERM
Age Proteom
Advanced Serum,
£86, at Space NK
 SKINCARE special
Ruched jersey
minidress,
ATLEIN, at
Ssense.com.
Pearl, onyx
and diamond
earring,
CARTIER

Skincare
MUSINGS
KATHLEEN BAIRD-
MURRAY highlights the
newest LAUNCHES for
your bathroom cabinet
SPRING CLEAN

PEP TALK HITTING

Championing peptides and coming THE SPOT
hot on the heels of Lancôme's Rénergie
HCF Triple Serum, £99, is the new Time was, help for acne – whether teenage
Rénergie HPN Ultra Cream, £83, for or perimenopausal – meant numerous
those who like their 300 types of quick-fix spot creams or astringent cleansers
peptides, hyaluronic acid and that dried out the skin. Gallinée have gone
niacinamide in a richer format. for a two-pronged approach to keep the
cutibacterium acnes bacteria in a balanced
state (when inflamed, some strains can
trigger acne). Try its Vinegar Gelée, £35, to
topically target blemishes and reduce redness
and inflammation. It contains a fermented
active that promotes non-acneic strains while
reducing acneic ones and there’s a probiotic
supplement too. Zap any flare-ups with
FaceGym’s Acne Light Shot LED device,
£60, which kills the bacteria at the source
and helps to keep breakouts under control.
Finally, Oskia’s new Violet Water line
(including the D-Spot Clearing Blemish
Treatment, £28) uses sulphur-rich water from
Sicily, renowned for its healing powers, to
treat blemish-prone skin. >
SKINCARE special

REPAIR & CONTRAST

For compromised skin, trust in these barrier-boosting cure-alls…

ORVEDA HEALING SAP, £125

Orveda’s kombucha black tea is one
of the reasons this is a firm favourite
pre and post aesthetic procedure.

THE PERSONAL OMOROVICZA QUEEN OIL, £115

TOUCH
Think of this as an intervention for
troubled skin, with three sources of
omega to rebuild the skin’s lipid levels.
Clarins myBlend is an exciting 360 approach to skincare, with
an LED mask, restorative, respectful skincare and, best of all,
a new skin diagnosis mobile app, mySkinDiag, that enables
your photos and questionnaire to be analysed, delivering
effective personalised routines and product choices straight to
your phone or laptop. And for those who like to talk things
through, book in for a video call with one of the experienced
therapists from Renude, founded by Pippa Harman, a PAULA’S CHOICE CALM
formulation chemist turned skincare entrepreneur. My therapist, REPAIRING SERUM, £36
who was a facialist specialising in inflammatory and hormonal The Calm collection’s
skin conditions, suggested a nonaggressive approach that would serum, cleanser, exfoliant
calm and improve my melasma and rosacea, rather than further and two moisturisers have
disrupt my skin’s microbiome. The service is completely all been designed to
independent, so the products they send out to you are chosen strengthen the skin barrier.
with nothing but your skin – and your budget – in mind, with
SUSANNE KAUFMANN
no charge for the consultations. HYDRATING FACE
GEL, £60
This Face Gel is part of a
BRIGHTEN UP new Hypersensitive
collection and is rich in
mushroom extracts to help
Is your skin looking a little grumpy?
calm irritated skin.
Get your glow back with Estée
Lauder’s new Nutritious line,
which nourishes the skin thanks to
fermented coconut water, red algae
and sweet kelp. The Melting Soft
Creme/Mask, £39.50, is enough
to put a smile on your face.

V-ULE-Z VOUS?
Putting the planet, a sense of fun (parlez-vous
Franglais, anyone?) and, of course, strong,
healthy-looking skin firmly in equal first place, comes
a new skincare line, Ulé. Powered by Shiseido’s
legendary R&D (Ulé’s founder, Lindsay Azpitarte,
worked for them for almost 10 years), three of the
main plant actives are grown in an indoor vertical
farm just outside Paris, free from contamination and
pesticides, and ensuring consistency in terms of VIOLETTE_FR SKIN SET, £231
quality and 100 per cent traceable provenance. Skin a bit sensitive? Dull? Full of blemishes? Pick your fix from
We love the Oh La Plump Quenching Serum, £42. Violette_Fr’s genius set of 48-hour rescue solutions.
 VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Scientific WE’VE ALL BECOME a lot savvier

when it comes to our skincare. And
for the Vitamin C Day Cream SPF 30. A
multitasking hydrator, which offers UVA/

SKINCARE knowing what trending ingredients, such

as retinol and vitamin C, are capable of
UVB filters and two forms of vitamin C to
protect against UV damage, this glow-

HEROES
Offering INTELLIGENT
skincare backed by science,
SKIN THEØRY’s products
are designed to be MIXED
and MATCHED for your
PERFECT routine
01
achieving means we expect impressive
results from our products to match. Skin
Theøry is science-led skincare with a
difference, using the most advanced
technologies and high-quality active
ingredients while ensuring its products are
affordable and accessible to everyone.
Created by the team behind Europe’s
leading medical aesthetic clinic, Thérapie
Clinic, Skin Theøry is a peptide-based
product line that draws upon 20 years of
hands-on expertise. Split into six ingredient-
led categories – peptide, vitamin C, salicylic,
antioxidant, retinol and glycolic – the
products can be combined however you
choose to create a skincare routine that’s
tailored to your specific needs.
A good starting point? Anyone who
knows anything about the brightening
benefits of vitamin C will make a beeline
boosting cream also stimulates collagen
production and fights free radical damage.
In fact, in a four-week consumer trial with
50 participants, 88 per cent said that their
skin was more hydrated after using it.
Another hero, the Peptide Eye Cream,
achieved similarly impressive results in the
same trials, with 76 per cent saying their
under-eye area was less puffy and dark circles
reduced after using it. And for anyone keen
to dip their toe into the wonderful world of
retinol, 74 per cent said their large pores
were minimised by the Retinol Retinaldehyde
Cream, a powerful anti-ageing night cream
that aids in collagen production, reduces
breakouts and balances oil production, while
still being gentle for sensitive skin. Effective,
easy-to-use formulas that really work.
To discover more, visit Skintheory.com and
shop using promo code VOGUE25

03

04

05

02

06

1. SKIN THEØRY Retinol Retinaldehyde Cream, £70. 2. Vitamin

C Day Cream SPF 30, £45. 3. Vitamin C Cleansing Cream, £35.
4. Peptide Eye Cream, £60. 5. Antioxidant Soothing Serum, £55.
6. Antioxidant Triple Peptide Cream, £70
SKINCARE special
CHECKLIST

SENSAI Lift
Focus Essence,
£160

VENN Collagen
Intensive Phyto-Retinol
Resurfacing Mask, £113

INSTITUT
ESTHEDERM
Age Proteom
Advanced
SUNDAY RILEY Serum, £86
Good Genes Glycolic
Acid Treatment, £70
Vogue, November 2020

EVIDENS
DE BEAUTE
The Cleansing
Foaming Gel, £69

A lighter NATURA BISSE

Inhibit Retinol Eye
Lift, £136

TOUCH
Put your trust in SOOTHING,
SKIN-REJUVENATING saviours.
Edited by HOLLY TOMALIN LA MER The
Moisturizing Soft
Cream, from £78
 Bright SPARKLE
Achieve a DEWY, hydrated GLOW with
these protective, MOISTURISING wonders

CELLCOSMET
Active Tonic, £120

LISA FRANKLIN
Sol-Protect Sunscreen
SPF 30, £38
Vogue, July 2018

CAUDALIE
Premier Cru
The Rich
Cream, £92
LIZ EARLE
Revitalise & Glow
Illuminating Gel
Moisturiser, £28
RICHARD BURBRIDGE; FELICITY INGRAM; PIXELATE.BIZ

From PEPTIDES AVENE

SKIN THEØRY
Peptide Eye

and hyaluronic acid

Cream, £60
Hyaluron Activ
B3 Cell Renewal

to SPF, hydrating
Cream, £38

BALMS come in
myriad FORMS
CHANTECAILLE
Bio Lifting Serum+, £324
 SHOP.VOGUE.CO.UK
AVAILABLE NOW AT

PHOTOGRAPH: DANIKA MAGDELENA. MODEL: TWIGGY JALLOH, VOGUE BEAUTY & WELLNESS ASSOCIATE
 PHOTOGRAPH: WILL SCARBOROUGH. STYLING: HARRY LAMBERT. HAIR: SYD HAYES. MAKE-UP: HIROMI UEDA.
NAILS: LAUREN MICHELLE PIRES. MODELS: EMMA CORRIN, ALEXANDER POOLE, BO WANG

FASHION & FEATURES

The TRINITY
Opinionated, ORIGINAL and committed to giving back,
PALOMA Elsesser, PRECIOUS Lee and JILL Kortleve
are a new kind of supermodel, as JANELLE OKWODU
discovers. Photographs by INEZ & VINOODH.
Styling by GABRIELLA KAREFA-JOHNSON
“They’re singular talents,”
says casting director Anita
Bitton. “Clients request
them by name because
they aren’t just looking
for a ‘model’. They want
Precious, Jill and
Paloma specifically.”

From left: Jill wears

white-gold and diamond
earring, BULGARI.
Paloma wears white-gold
and diamond earring,
VAN CLEEF &
ARPELS. Precious wears
white-gold and diamond
earring, DE BEERS

165
 “My mother called me
a supermodel from the
beginning,” says Precious
Lee. “Back then, I’d get
annoyed with her.
‘Supermodel’ wasn’t a word
I’d use to describe myself.”

Embroidered veil and

belted Spandex all-in-one,
RICHARD QUINN

166
Cady playsuit,
VALENTINO. Leather
sandals, BROTHER
VELLIES. Gold-plated
earrings, PAULA
MENDOZA. Gold-plated
rings, PANCONESI, at
Browns and Ssense.com

167
 “The only images you’d
see [in the ’90s] were of
blonde, blue-eyed and
incredibly thin people,”
says Jill Kortleve. “If that’s
all you get exposed to, you
start to think that’s the only
definition of beauty.”

Cropped cady top with cape

detail, VALENTINO.
Shaping tights, FALKE.
Patent-leather mules, PARIS
TEXAS. Metal earring,
SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO. Gold
ring, CARTIER.
Gold-plated necklace
(worn as ankle bracelet),
LOUISE OLSEN, at
Dinosaur Designs

168
t’s about more than just a picture – what we’re doing is creating a
reference.” If anyone knows the difference between a mere
photograph and an image that signifies a culture shift, it’s Paloma
Elsesser. The 30-year-old multi-hyphenate has become one of
modelling’s tastemakers in just under a decade. Omnipresent in
galleries, on billboards and inside glossy magazines, Elsesser is her
generation’s resident cool girl. Still, when it’s time to step in front
of the camera, she’s anything but aloof. For Elsesser, the work isn’t
gratifying unless it’s in service of something bigger than sales.
“I always think about the 15-year-old girl sitting in her bedroom
in Milwaukee who needs to see someone with boobs or a belly
represented,” she says between sips of coffee at Sant Ambroeus in
downtown Manhattan. “I want her to know we can be chic, beautiful
and cool – to see all the possibilities.”
The statement is met with nods of agreement by Precious Lee
and Jill Kortleve, boundary-breakers in their own right, who share
in the vision of purposeful fashion and imagery. Huddled together
in a corner booth, laughing at in-jokes as they peruse the menu,
their phones ping relentlessly. “These days, we’re travelling more
in a month than most people do in a year,” explains Elsesser. “It
can be surreal. Taking in everything that is happening gets
emotional. Jill, Precious and I have spoken about this a lot because,
as incredible as this job is, it can be difficult to reflect upon. The
work affects your social life, relationships and even your
conversations with your body. It changes everything.”
Even in the abridged version, the recap of the trio’s past year
is eventful. Far-flung fashion shows and campaign shoots have
been a constant, but so too have private moments of creative
expression and personal growth. Lee has been honing her dramatic
skills, taking on auditions in Hollywood, while finding a way to
incorporate her breathwork training into the job. “I want to share
the healing work I’ve learnt and experienced,” she says. Kortleve,
who has a home in the Netherlands, has committed to building
a life beyond the spotlight’s glare. “I want to create a space where
I can be as grounded as possible,” she says. “Life in Amsterdam is
so different from New York or Paris, and when I’m home I try to
keep my full focus there, spend time with friends and family, and
give them my full attention.”
Elsesser, meanwhile, is in a particularly reflective zone, currently
working on her first collection of essays. Returning to the writing
practice she’d once considered as a career, she’s found joy in crafting
her narrative. “I always wrote poetry that was reserved for me, but
after having to turn my story over to others constantly, it’s exciting
and intense to be able to tell it myself,” she says. “So much of the
work we do is focused on empowering others, [but] now I’m giving
myself permission to centre my own needs.”
Having asserted in her first meeting with managers at IMG
Models that she’d like a career somewhere in between Chloë
Sevigny’s indie icon status and Oprah Winfrey’s self-help empire,
Elsesser is the right person to deliver a message of empowerment.
She’s not unlike the millions of young women who grew up without
seeing themselves represented in fashion, film or television. “I grew
up in the ’90s, which were arguably the most toxic years in fashion,”
agrees Kortleve, an elegant Dutch Surinamese beauty who has
become a runway fixture in European collections. “The only images
you’d see – especially in Holland – were of blonde, blue-eyed and
incredibly thin people. If that’s all you get exposed to, you start to
think that’s the only definition of beauty.”
As someone who came of age in the early 2000s, when the lithe
figures of women such as Gisele Bündchen and Alessandra
Ambrosio were heralded as curvaceous, I understand the impulse
to broaden the breadth of sizes featured in the media. It’s been two
decades since the “Brazilian wave”, but reference points are still
hard to come by. “I remember during my first seasons I would look
at pictures of myself on the runway and think, ‘Why do I look so
different from everyone else?’” says Kortleve. “I was comparing
myself to other girls, wondering why I felt out of place, and I realised
that it was because I’d never seen anyone who looked like me in
those spaces. I had to change the way I looked at things.”
Perspective shifts aren’t easy, even when you’re someone who
is changing society’s views. “My mother called me a supermodel
from the beginning,” says Lee, a former aspiring lawyer whose
innate charm has sold everything from Versace dresses to Zara
lipsticks. “Even when we were sitting in a waiting room at a casting
with dozens of other girls, I was her super. Back then, I’d get
annoyed with her. ‘Supermodel’ wasn’t a word I’d use to describe
myself, even once I started ticking off the boxes.” Supermodel is
a loaded term and it’s hard to imagine these women engaging in
any of the old clichés. Backstage meltdowns, dramatic rivalries or
quotations about not getting out of bed for less than $10,000 a
day feel passé. During brunch, they’d rather discuss the merits of
the menu’s sunflower-seed bread and ooh over snapshots of
Elsesser’s artfully remodelled house than talk shop.
“I don’t want to say we’ve come full circle, but we’ve finally
reached a place where we can give ourselves the space to see
our work and appreciate everything that has led us to this
moment,” says Lee. “The first time I met Paloma, we were
shooting for Target, and yesterday we were shooting this cover
for Vogue. How often do girls see a [US] size 16 brown, chocolate
girl jumping through the air on a Vogue cover or being called
a supermodel? None of us aspired to a title [per se], but inspiring
others on this level is powerful.” > 178
169
 Rollneck body and leather
skirt, ALAIA. Tights,
FALKE. Mules, as before

170
 “So much of the work
we do is focused on
empowering others,” says
Paloma Elsesser, “[but]
now I’m giving myself
permission to centre
my own needs.”

Belted Spandex all-in-one,

RICHARD QUINN

171
 “When I first started in this
business, I felt incredibly
alone,” says Elsesser.
“You’re confronting an
industry that is largely
white and thin-centric,
one that doesn’t always
see our worth.”

Biker body and patent-

leather and feather
sandals, ALAIA. Silver
earring, MOUNSER.
Tights, stylist’s own

172
173
 “The first time I met
Paloma, we were shooting
for Target, and yesterday
we were shooting this cover
for Vogue,” says Lee.
“Inspiring others on this
level is powerful.”

Body, ALAIA. Silver rings

(on right pinky finger and left
ring finger), PATRICIA
VON MUSULIN. Silver
rings (on right ring finger
and left middle finger),
KHIRY. Sandals, as before.
Tights, stylist’s own

174
Silk blouson cape,
HALPERN. Satin shoes,
SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO. Opera
gloves, MISCREANTS
FOR KAROLINE
VITTO. Tights, as before

175
176
“Getting here meant taking
a huge risk,” says Lee.
“Sometimes I think about
the kid version of me, the
little girl who would be so
proud knowing I’ve come
this far and managed to
stay true to myself.”

Jersey-knit jumpsuit,
VICTOR GLEMAUD

177
 “I would look at pictures of MYSELF on the RUNWAY
and think, ‘Why do I look so DIFFERENT
from EVERYONE else?’” says Kortleve.
“I had to change the way I looked at things”
Where straight-sized models are responsible for breathing
life into imagery, their counterparts not traditionally seen on the
runway must pose while serving as stand-ins for groups the
industry has continuously excluded. That Elsesser, Lee and
Kortleve consider such duties a part of their work speaks to how
fashion treats larger bodies. “It’s a privileged responsibility,” says
Elsesser of their unique role. “There are layers added to navigating
our careers and it’s all nuanced. When our contemporaries take
a season off, they aren’t worried about whether or not the level
of representation will decrease because they aren’t there.”
That representation goes far beyond old ideas about sizing.
Dividing models – and women – into opposing categories
separated by size has proven reductive. “Representing different
body types doesn’t just mean that you have one model who is
size 0 and another who is a [US] 14 – you also have to show
what is in between,” says Kortleve, who at an American 8 to 10
(which translates to around a 12 to 14 in British sizes) is in the
middle of the debate. “I have an average [-sized] body, but when
you put me next to any straight-size girls you can immediately
see a difference.”
Pigeonholing Elsesser, Lee and Kortleve as the industry’s
response to the body positivity and self-acceptance movements is
an oversimplification. While fashion relies on broader cultural trends,
its response to them can be reactionary. In the ’90s, when Hollywood
stars ditched glamour on the red carpet, the original supermodels
emerged to fill the void with George Michael videos and overt
sexiness. The 2000s obsession with reality television and social media
informed the meteoric – and voyeuristic – rise of Kendall Jenner,
the Hadid sisters and their follower-obsessed ilk.
In an era when the rigidity of beauty standards has been
repeatedly called into question, young people value service over
status and the unfiltered naturalism of point-and-shoot disposable
cameras has become buzzier than Instagram, this new breed of
down-to-earth supermodel seems appropriate. Elsesser, Kortleve
and Lee have resisted conformity. “They’re singular talents,” says
Anita Bitton, the casting director behind high-concept shows such
as Bottega Veneta and Marc Jacobs. “Clients request them by name
because they aren’t just looking for a ‘model’. They want Precious,
Jill and Paloma specifically and the gifts only they can bring.”
Their force of personality may have something to do with
maturity. “None of us are children; we entered this industry as
women,” says Elsesser, who credits their upbringings with keeping
them authentic. “Before fashion, we’d all worked other jobs, gained
life experience and understood who we were. It’s nice to be
affirmed with this title as self-made people.” Unlike the much-
reviled celebrity “nepo babies”, none experienced overnight
178
success. “This wasn’t a part of my original plan,” says Lee. “Getting
here meant taking a huge risk and that’s one of the things I’m
proudest of [because] I’m grounded in who I was before I began
this journey. Sometimes I think about the kid version of me, the
little girl who would be so proud knowing I’ve come this far and
managed to stay true to myself.”
Of course, all that authenticity doesn’t stand in the way of
embodying a character, and transformation remains a supermodel
prerequisite. “It’s important for me to always do the most
expressive thing,” says Lee. “You must hone your craft. I am
allergic to doing what’s expected. One moment I’ll be chill, the
next I’ll be planking on the floor with a leg up in the air! My hip
bone might hurt afterwards, but you always push yourself to hit
that highest level and create something new.”
“When I started, I didn’t know I could push myself as far as
I have while dealing with my mental health,” says Elsesser, who
has been vocal about her demons. “Learning that I could make
it through the hard days and still show up to do my job was huge
for me. Forget what’s going on in my personal life, I’m going to
make sure we get that shot!”
Having spent the previous day shooting with Inez and
Vinoodh, the recipe for great editorials is top of mind. Elsesser
finds energy in creative partnerships. “The most rewarding work
is a result of collaboration,” she says. “A shoot like yesterday’s
feels so representative of where we’re all at because we weren’t
just posing, we were invited to collaborate and be a part of the
decision-making. As models who are defining what is hopefully
a continuing moment, doing this story felt different.”
Reaching the point where that level of collaboration is possible
is the tricky part, but the camaraderie that exists between the trio
has made the process easier. Friendship isn’t easy in the modelling
world, where beauties are pitted against each other for a limited
number of campaigns and runway spots. “When I first started in
this business, I felt incredibly alone. You’re confronting an industry
that is largely white and thin-centric, one that doesn’t always see
our worth,” says Elsesser. “To be doing this now where I’m
supported, and alongside my sisters in the game, is beautiful.”
Growing together also means owning the supermodel title
they’ve worked so hard to earn. “I’m always telling other people to
own it, to tap into what inspires them and go for the things they
want, because they deserve that,” says Lee. “Now I have to take my
own advice and that’s a lot.” Still, the reward makes it all worthwhile.
“Even if I threw in the towel tomorrow, I’d know I made a difference,”
says Elsesser. “No matter what else happens in our lives, we know
that in some small corner of the world we’ve changed something
and not just for ourselves. How many people get to say that?”
 Corseted leather all-in-
one, ALEXANDER
McQUEEN. Pearl
necklace, ALIGHIERI.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information.
Hair: LACY REDWAY.
Make-up: DIANE
KENDAL. Nails:
DEBORAH LIPPMANN.
Set design: JILL
NICHOLLS. Production:
VLM PRODUCTIONS.
Digital artwork:
STEREOHORSE

179
 The Delphic draped
transparencies of this Alaïa
look aren’t appropriate for
shrinking violets.

This page: voile-jersey

body, sleeveless body,
draped skirt with leather
detail, and voile-jersey
leggings, ALAIA.

Fresh combinations
take root, as Gucci’s
pleated cape unfurls
alongside Victoria
Beckham’s latex tights.

Opposite: embroidered
silk-chiffon cape, GUCCI.
Tights and leather sandals,
VICTORIA BECKHAM

180
WITHIN A
BUDDING
GROVE
Turn over a NEW LEAF as designers
overlay FORM-FITTING silhouettes
with glimpses of skin, florals and
sheer ARTISTRY. Photographs by ZOE
GHERTNER. Styling by JANE HOW

181
 A verdant vista. The fiery sunset tones of Ferragamo’s minidress lick against
the lushest of foliage.

Dégradé silk minidress, FERRAGAMO

182
 Spring into action with knockout khaki silhouettes
by Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent.

Asymmetric crêpe-jersey gown with hood, SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

183
 Sow the seeds of the
new season and
embrace bedroom
dressing with
Burberry’s lace
all-in-one.

Stretch-lace jumpsuit,
BURBERRY

184
We’re taking pointers
from prom queens with
Blumarine’s corsage-detail
daffodil micro-mini.

Tulle top and draped tulle

miniskirt, BLUMARINE.
Tights, as before

185
 The grass is always greener when you’re wearing Victoria Beckham’s déshabillé ruffled dress.

Sheer jersey dress, VICTORIA BECKHAM

186
A warning for wallflowers! The cut-out ruched details of Supriya Lele’s violet party
dress bring dancefloor drama.

Spandex minidress, SUPRIYA LELE

187
 We heard on the grapevine
that there’s delicacy to the
floral foliage on Acne
Studios’s sheer silhouettes.

Tulle dress,
ACNE STUDIOS

188
Nip your neutrals in
the bud. There’s a
rosy disposition to
Coperni’s masterfully
cut cocktail number.

Draped jersey
minidress, COPERNI

189
 Ray of sunshine. Spring/summer ’23 comes into bloom courtesy of Lanvin’s
carnation-yellow goddess-worthy gown.

Draped tulle minidress, LANVIN. Tights and sandals, as before

190
 Fine-feathered foliage. Layer up lace and cobwebby dresses imprinted
with ghostly garden shadows.

Sheer cotton-voile sheath dress, ANN DEMEULEMEESTER. Sleeveless flower-motif sheer dress,
FENDI. Vintage lace body, stylist’s own. For stockists, all pages, see Vogue Information.
Hair: CYNDIA HARVEY. Make-up: LUCIA PICA. Nails: ADAM SLEE.
Set design: MAX BELLHOUSE. Production: FARAGO PROJECTS. Digital artwork:
STUDIO RM. Model: ANNA EWERS. With thanks to RHS GARDEN WISLEY, Surrey

191
 “The red
carpet has
really
given me a
chance to
explore my
identity
through
clothing”
The words of ACTOR and daring EVENT DRESSER
EMMA CORRIN reverberate, as they lead a step-and-
repeat like no other, in LOOKS masterminded by their
COLLABORATOR and stylist HARRY LAMBERT.
Photographs by WILL SCARBOROUGH
192
 Call in security. Saint
Laurent by Anthony
Vaccarello’s protective
leather layer conceals a
sultry transparent sheath.

Emma wears leather

coat, seamless viscose-mesh
dress, jersey knickers,
and satin sandals,
SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO.
White-gold and diamond
earrings, CARTIER.
Bo and Alexander
wear three-piece suit,
EDWARD SEXTON.
Shirt, BRUNELLO
CUCINELLI. Bow tie,
GUCCI. Shoes,
CHRISTIAN
LOUBOUTIN

193
 “If PEOPLE don’t
understand what
I’m WEARING,
we GIGGLE about
feedback or tabloid
HEADLINES”
EMMA CORRIN

A lightbulb style moment.

Emma Corrin always
looks like a VIP in JW
Anderson’s creations, such
as this twinkling dress.

Emma wears metallic wool

dress, JW ANDERSON.
Earrings, as before.
Reece wears jacket and shirt,
PRADA. Trousers,
EDWARD SEXTON. Bow
tie, GUCCI. Crystal-
embellished mules (in hand),
SEBASTIAN MILANO

194
 How to inflate your ego?
Bob into best-dressed lists
with Moschino’s pool-float
inspired ballgown.

Strapless gown with opera

gloves and inflatable
accessories, MOSCHINO

195
 Awards afterparty with a
plus one? You’ll have more
fun in Dilara Findikoglu’s
daring designs if you leave
your date at home.

Lulu wears duchesse-satin

minidress embroidered
with feathers, DILARA
FINDIKOGLU.
Stockings, stylist’s own.
Alexander wears jacket,
NEIL BARRETT.
Custom-made T-shirt
with bow tie, MAX ALLEN.
Trousers, SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

196
 “My WORK is
like having a PAGE
in a MAGAZINE,
but it’s a shot on the
RED CARPET”
HARRY LAMBERT

Forget flashback Friday.

Harris Reed’s debut
designs for Nina Ricci
will steal the limelight
every day of the week.

Maty wears tulle catsuit with

glitter polkadots, oversized
taffeta bow belt, sequined
hotpants, and satin shoes,
NINA RICCI BY HARRIS
REED. Bo, Reece and
Alexander wear clothes and
accessories, as before

197
198
 Prepare for your photocall.
Like Emma, you’ll stand out in
any line-up sporting Miu Miu’s
intentionally worn leather suiting.

From left: Maty wears canvas blazer,

lamé and silk shirt, bow tie, trousers
with cut-out garter detail, knickers,
and shoes. Bo wears twill jacket,
cotton shirt, bow tie, shorts, trousers
with garter detail, and shoes. All
GUCCI. Alexander wears jacket
and trousers, BRUNELLO
CUCINELLI. Shoes,
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. Hat
and socks, stylist’s own. Emma wears
leather jacket, jersey vests, leather
trousers, and leather shoes, MIU
MIU. Gold earrings, CARTIER.
Hat, stylist’s own. Lulu wears
feather-embellished dress with
corsage, RICHARD QUINN. Latex
hold-ups, ELISSA POPPY. Shoes,
JIMMY CHOO. Reece wears suit,
shirt, and tie, DRIES VAN
NOTEN. Shoes, MANOLO
BLAHNIK. Alessandra wears
tulle bolero and dress, MOLLY
GODDARD. Shoes, stylist’s own

199
 Know your angles. Loewe
offers the most photogenic
dimensions of the season.

Lulu wears velvet dress and

foam shoes, LOEWE. Velvet
gloves, MISCREANTS.
Earrings, stylist’s own.
Alexander wears clothes
and accessories, as before

200
 Maximise your red carpet
moment with the
look-at-me train of a
Valentino gown and a
larger-than-life accessory.

Duchesse-satin gown,
VALENTINO. Custom-
made clutch bag, MAX
ALLEN. Sunglasses,
“The INTENTION SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY

is to CREATE
VACCARELLO. Vintage
earrings, PAUME
LOS ANGELES
something that’s
MEMORABLE and
fun, JOYFUL and
INTERESTING”
HARRY LAMBERT

201
 The duo that styles
together stays together,
thanks to complementary
stripes and polka dots.

Maty wears linen minidress

and cotton bra, MARCO
RIBEIRO. Reece
wears jacket, shirt,
shorts and badge, ERL.
Tie, stylist’s own

202
 Who needs a trophy when
you’re clad in the twinkling
crystals of a bespoke
16Arlington gown?

Alessandra wears custom-

made crystal-embellished
dress and headpiece,
16ARLINGTON. Vinyl
shoes, GIANVITO ROSSI.
Vintage ring, PAUME LOS
ANGELES. Earrings,
stylist’s own. Bo, Reece and
Alexander wear clothes
and accessories, as before.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information.
Hair: SYD HAYES.
Make-up: HIROMI UEDA.
Nails: LAUREN
MICHELLE PIRES.
Set design: SAMUEL
PIDGEN. Movement
director: MJ HARPER.
Digital artwork: INK
RETOUCH. Models:
ALESSANDRA
CAPORASO, EMMA
CORRIN, MATY FALL,
ALEXANDER POOLE,
REECE NELSON, BO
WANG, LULU WOOD

203
 At the crossroads: easy
utilitarian style takes to
the bustling streets of
Manhattan. Givenchy
cargos and a hooded
bomber give Gucci’s
blazer edge.

This page: oversized bomber

jacket, cropped hoodie,
cargo trousers, and leather
mules, GIVENCHY.
Canvas blazer (throughout),
GUCCI.

Delectable suiting is
within reach. The flavour
of the month? Power
shoulders, pinstripes and
a tie mean business.

Opposite: canvas blazer,

cotton shirt with neck tie,
wool-crêpe trousers, and
leather loafers, GUCCI
204
 TOP
OF THE
TOWN
TAILOR your look to anything the CITY
throws at you, as GUCCI’s easy-does-it
double-breasted blazer pulls SHARP focus
in New York. Photographs by CASS BIRD.
Styling by TABITHA SIMMONS
205
 Max Mara’s floor-dusting
maxiskirt takes a smart
jacket to new lengths
– and the view has
never been better.

Cropped cotton-mix sweater

and linen skirt, MAX
MARA. Baseball cap,
’47. Gold ear cuff,
ANA KHOURI
206
 Don’t add water! Dior
florals and French toast
bring romantic appeal to
clean lines. Just one bite…

Lace corset, linen vest,

and cotton/silk jacquard
cargo trousers, DIOR.
White-gold and diamond
ring, ANA KHOURI

207
 Brace yourself. Corsetry
is the wardrobe binder
of the season, and ideal
for tying a tailored
look together.

Satin corset, MATTY

BOVAN & DOLCE &
GABBANA. Socks,
FALKE. Leather shoes,
DR MARTENS.
White-gold, diamond and
green-tourmaline ear cuff
and white-gold and diamond
ear cuff, ANA KHOURI
208
 Over your shoulders and
out – a boxy blazer makes
for an elegant addition to a
bejewelled evening gown.
The dazzle lies within.

Crystal-embellished gown,
AREA. Satin and crystal
bag, JIMMY CHOO.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information.
Hair: PANOS
PAPANDRIANOS.
Make-up: ROMY
SOLEIMANI.
Production: BOOM
PRODUCTIONS.
Model: IRINA SHAYK.
With thanks to CASA
CIPRIANI and LE
GRATIN, New York

209
 West side
STORY
From SHEPHERD’S BUSH to
world renown, RAP’s enigmatic
new STAR is finally ready to talk.
Meet the real CENTRAL CEE,
says AMEL MUKHTAR.
Photographs by ADAMA
JALLOH. Styling
by HANNA KELIFA

“I don’t go out of my way

to make people want to talk
about me,” says Central
Cee. “If it was up to me, I’d
just be living under a rock.”

Ventile panelled jacket,

wool tank top, and Seaqual
trousers, ROBYN LYNCH,
at Browns and Ssense.com.
Beanie, PALACE.
Jewellery, Central Cee’s own

210
storm is brewing on an east London photoshoot. On my way to
set, a text pings on my phone from a member of the Vogue team:
“Just a heads up, Central Cee is not in a great mood today.” As
I get closer, I bump into a fleeing fashion assistant. Summoned
from the office to haul over more outfits, she describes the panic
that has befallen the shoot. Central Cee (shortened to “Cench”)
will not try on the clothes. The day is already running behind:
apparently he’d objected to the first car that arrived for him because
the windows were not blacked out.
Bracing for an outsized ego, instead I find, sitting by the
dressing room mirror, a quiet young man in possession of a beautiful,
boyish face that’s almost swallowed up by a black hat and puffer,
with his rumoured girlfriend sat nearby for moral support. He
liked the clothes in the end. Calm has been restored, and there’s
no forcefield of self-importance. If anything, he seems to want to
shrink. While the 24-year-old’s features are all cut-glass angles
– sky-high cheekbones, sharp jaw – he’s disarmingly self-effacing.
“I’m not great at interviews,” he says, smiling meekly, as I
join him. “Apologies in advance.” He might be the first British
rapper in history to clock up more than one billion streams, but
explains, “I don’t go out of my way to make people want to talk
about me.” His west London accent is softer in real life than
on his monster hits, which so far include “Doja” and “Let Go”.
“If it was up to me,” he says, “I’d just be living under a rock.”
This wallflower is not who I expected when I set off to meet the
UK’s new emperor of rap. On the surface, Cench might seem like
your typical, model-faced musician on the come-up, fronting fashion
lines and walking red carpets, but it’s clear he is also a deep thinker,
an occasional recluse who goes long periods without leaving the
house. He’s become so famous for exclusively wearing streetwear,
even turning up to the British Fashion Awards in a tracksuit, that
the odd old photo showing him in a cardigan or with a septum ring
causes heated debate. But Jacquemus came calling, the French brand
choosing him as the star of its most recent holiday campaign, cosy
in oversized knits and cuddling puppies. He and his maybe-girlfriend,
Madeline Argy, have a contradiction in common: both have made
oversharing their careers, but are the most introverted of stars. A
#relatable social media raconteur, while Argy is well-known for her
candour and telling funny, embarrassing stories to her 3.5 million
followers on TikTok, she is almost completely silent on Vogue’s set.
Accordingly, internet discourse around “the real Central Cee”
now sits at fever pitch. No-one can agree on anything about him.
Today, though, with Argy at arm’s reach, Cench – real name Oakley
Neil Caesar-Su – is opening up. Chatting in low, hushed tones,
and at times almost whispering, he’s ready to make clear things
fans have been debating on social media for months.
Soon his air of mystery starts to make sense. “Last two, three
years I didn’t want to be outside. Maybe I had anxiety…” He pauses
a moment. “I didn’t want to go shop. I didn’t go to no club. I didn’t
[do] f**king nuttin. If I’ve not got money to make, I’m just inside
my yard. I live a very boring, simple life – always have.”
Has he? Over the past few years Cench’s crystal-clear rap
style, born from his watchful, incisive social commentary, with
tongue-in-cheek humour and some of the punchiest ledes in the
game, has made him a superstar. In July, his wildly viral, provocative
single “Doja” charted in 26 countries (the refrain “How can I be
homophobic? My bitch is gay” seemed to emanate from every
car and smartphone for a while), including the US where British
rappers have found it notoriously hard to get success. Travis
Scott reposts his freestyles. Drake put him in his “Jumbotron
Shit Poppin” music video. So, naturally, I assume this newfound
fame is causing him stress? Does he avoid going out for fear of
getting swarmed by fans?
“Not really,” he tells me. Antisocial since way before the fame,
he’s used to lying low, “But if anybody ever does see me, it’s
always love.” Even the more obsessive fangirls – the ones that
post slow-mo edits of him on TikTok and litter his comments
with yearning emojis – don’t faze him. Perhaps because, before
he was famous-famous, he was still a local heartthrob, getting
posted all over social media as girls’ #ManCrushMondays. I see
a cheeky glint in his eyes, as he laughs. “I always had a little suttin
going on my Instagram, innit?”
It’s not the first time during our chat that Cench’s eyes give
away what he’s thinking. Piercing and brown, they tend to rove
into the distance as he talks, assessing and reassessing what’s
going on around him. He throws out almost as many questions
as I throw at him: about my job; which office I’ve come from;
what song is playing on the studio soundsystem (it’s by Little
Dragon). He has always been inquisitive, he explains. His
perceptiveness forced him “to grow up quick”, he says, slouching
towards my recorder. “I never really got the chance to enjoy what
little kids would enjoy because I’m not seeing life from a little-
kid perspective. My head is always on. It’s a gift and a curse.”
Cench was born at the tail end of the ’90s in London’s
Ladbroke Grove. “My dad’s Guyanese and Chinese, and my
mum’s English,” he says, hesitating before he answers. (He >
211
 usually declines to reveal his ethnicity. This might be the first can probably get a better picture from my music.” This is classic
time he’s confirmed it himself.) When he was seven, his parents Cench. As a man of few words outside of the recording studio, he
broke up. He moved with his mother and two younger brothers seeks precision with those he does use. A control freak, yes, but
to Shepherd’s Bush, with another half-brother living elsewhere. it’s what makes him such a deft lyricist. “In rap, I can articulate
He was unruly, often disobedient, and didn’t really listen in class. myself better – you can get a better understanding of who I am.”
But he was an independent thinker. (He’d later teach himself There, he can take time to find the perfect phrase until he’s satisfied
unsung, Black and religious histories, along with the basics, such he’s left no room for misunderstanding.
as “f**king Henry VIII”.) And he paid attention to the world in I can’t imagine how maddening it must be, then, to be consistently
his own way – even at a very young age, he could see how his discussed and misinterpreted, such as in January, when social media
mother suffered during his parents’ split. filled with debate about pictures of him at a friend’s wedding in
Her heartbreak cast a sombre chill over her flat, Cench what was deemed a tracksuit (they were Rick Owens cargos and a
describes. But whenever he saw his father – once in a blue moon, Moncler puffer) and fans concluded that he was forcing a “gangster”
until he was old enough to make the plans himself – he seemed persona. He finds all this “jarring”. He didn’t have time to get a suit
unfazed. He would drive Cench and his brothers around in his and his friends didn’t care. “That’s the type of event I would wear a
van, with music blasting, or take them to play with their cousins. suit to – not to bullshit like the BFAs or the Brits.” At the BFAs,
Sometimes the boys would “I was begging not to take
sleep in the vehicle; after the a picture,” he says. “That’s
break-up, his father had why my face is screwed up.
become homeless. If it was up to me, I would
“Not having much, my have went to the BFAs and
mum’s hardships… I was went home, and no one
taking them on myself, would have saw me.”
subconsciously,” says Cench, In fact, he says, when it
of that time. “I wanted to comes to his now-signature
take matters into my own look, “I just know my style
hands.” It meant he always now.” The stakes are too
felt a responsibility to make high to experiment. “If I’m
enough money to support not comfortable in my
his mother. As a child, he clothes, I feel uncomfortable
wrote poetry, “just how I’m the whole day – even if my
feeling at the time, in a boxers are the wrong colour.”
t h e r a p e u t i c w ay ” , h e That explains the first
explains,“not how most hit impressions on set. “Back in
songs sound now”. When a the day, I had less and I was
friend brought him along to trying more,” he says. “That
a studio, aged 14, he became septum [ring] and all of
inspired to make it a career. that… I was, like, 14, just
To support those dreams, trying a ting. I know I can
and his family, he took to pull off bare things, but at
dealing party drugs for a the moment I just like to
while, but his artistic focus have one silhouette to repeat
endured. For seven years, he and feel comfortable, rather
tried different sounds, but than always changing it up.”
struggled to get heard. “It It makes sense that
just wasn’t going nowhere,” Cench would want to keep
he murmurs. “I’m seeing a things simple. He has had a
lot of people around me hectic few weeks since our
blow up and I’m questioning conversation, embarking on
why my ting weren’t. My a tour of North America
confidence was super low. I took a big break.” That was when (Europe is to follow) and also winning recognition at the Brit Awards,
he met Ybeeez, now his manager. Cench dropped the autotune where he was one of a controversial all-male line-up of nominees
and got his help distributing “Day in the Life”, his first drill for the gender-neutral artist of the year award. He hasn’t noticed
track. “The rest is history.” the debate around it. “I don’t care about the accolades. I’m in it for
You can tell he’s protective of Argy. The pair have been dating the peoples – to touch the peoples, innit. I don’t see the need to
since September. Or at least that’s when they started hinting about glorify these awards. If anything, they’re just making us compete
their relationship with cameos on each other’s socials. Later today, with each other, which I don’t feel the need to, or condone.”
she will make things official with a couple’s mirror picture they That’s what Cench appreciates the most about music: how it
took from the same spot we’re sat in. (She has almost one million brings people together. “My parents’ relationship is better than
Instagram followers; that picture gets more than 830,000 likes.) ever due to the blessing that music has brought me, and the peace
Right now, though, she’s hanging out quietly on set, only separating of mind it’s come with,” he says, with a small smile. “That’s
from Cench when essential. At one moment I spot the rapper something I’m thankful for.” He has plans to launch a label and
tenderly adjusting his diamond-emblazoned Chanel-logo chain pass those blessings on to a new generation of artists too. “I can’t
(his initials: CC) around her neck with a reassuring touch. make nobody successful,” he insists, explaining he knows first hand
When we catch up on the phone, weeks later, I ask him about that proximity to a star isn’t enough to launch a career. But he can
love. He’s cagey. “I don’t think I’ve been in love…” he says, but he try. “I had one small dream and I’m living it right now. My next
trails off. Something’s given him pause. “I mean, I don’t know. You dream is… yeah, my peoples do the same.”

212
 “I don’t CARE about
the ACCOLADES.
I don’t see the need
to GLORIFY
these AWARDS”

Linen shirt and linen shorts,

FENDI. Vest, AMI. Socks
and trainers, NIKE.
Jewellery, Central Cee’s own.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information.
Grooming: NICOLA
SVENSEN. Nails: AMI
STREETS. Set design:
TOBIAS BLACKMORE.
Digital artwork: KAJA
JANGAARD

213
 QUIET REFLECTION

For your CONSIDERATION this season: THOUGHTFULLY

STRUCTURED, sensual pieces in an intentional palette
to emanate EVERLASTING ELEGANCE. Photographs by
ALASDAIR McLELLAN. Styling by CARLOS NAZARIO

214
 Meditate on the mirrored
buckled details of Gucci’s
space-age suiting.

Opposite: belted wool-crêpe

jacket with detachable
collar, wool-crêpe trousers,
and leather shoes,
GUCCI. Felt hat,
PIERS ATKINSON.

Tinker tailor. Alexander

McQueen’s deconstructed
suiting is still razor sharp as
a corset or jumpsuit.

This page, from left: Anok

wears tailored wool
jumpsuit. Mona wears
strapless wool tuxedo jacket
and wool tuxedo trousers.
Both ALEXANDER
McQUEEN. Anok wears
felt hat, MAISON
MICHEL. Mona wears felt
hat, RUSLAN
BAGINSKIY. Bangle,
SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO

215
 Simply the zest. The
fiery hue of Bottega
Veneta’s dress has even
more impact when it
explodes in fringing.

Twill dress with fringing,

leather mules, and
gold-plated earrings,
BOTTEGA VENETA

216
 Can you keep a secret? The XL zip details of Louis Vuitton’s
sporty silhouette will have everyone talking.

Jersey dress with oversized roll detail, LOUIS VUITTON. Leather shoes, ATP ATELIER.
Gold earring, ANA KHOURI. Ear cuff, Mona’s own

217
 Take the plunge. Dare to bare your décolletage by wearing a Michael Kors
skirt-suit with zero underneath.

Crêpe jacket and crêpe skirt, MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION. Leather mules,
BOTTEGA VENETA. Felt hat, NOEL STEWART. Gold ring,
CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY

218
Shrouded in secrecy.
The hooded details of
Saint Laurent by Anthony
Vaccarello’s twisted and
draped top hark back
to the 1980s.

Wool coat, jersey top, and

draped jersey skirt,
SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO

219
 Fashion at your fingertips.
Givenchy advocates an
ensemble with in-built
gloves. It’s the finishing
style touch…

Ruched jersey top with

gloves and draped leather
skirt, GIVENCHY.
Lacquered straw hat,
SCHIAPARELLI

220
The nightie is the partywear hit of the season. It’s nothing like your
granny’s when it’s in ravishing Prada red.

Silk-satin dress and leather Mary Janes, PRADA

221
 Say “sleeves”! Maximise your mirror selfie with the wild wrist
details of Schiaparelli’s button-up.

Smocked satin shirtdress, SCHIAPARELLI. Patent-leather and vinyl shoes, ROGER

VIVIER. Straw and silk hat, EMILY-LONDON

222
Caution: avoid spills when
you’re sashaying in the
Delphic drapes of a
Ferragamo or Giorgio
Armani gown.

From left: Karen wears long

dress embroidered with
rhinestones, GIORGIO
ARMANI. Malgosia
wears draped cady dress,
FERRAGAMO.
Gold-vermeil ring,
CHARLOTTE
CHESNAIS. Wedding
band, Malgosia’s own.
For stockists, all pages, see
Vogue Information.
Hair: SYD HAYES.
Make-up: LYNSEY
ALEXANDER. Nails:
ADAM SLEE. Set design:
DAISY AZIS. Production:
RAGI DHOLAKIA
PRODUCTIONS.
Digital artwork:
OUTPUT LONDON.
Models: MALGOSIA
BELA, KAREN ELSON,
LARA STONE,
MONA TOUGAARD,
ANOK YAI

223
 Press play on The World of Interiors
The cameras have been rolling at some of our
most evocative locations. Transport yourself to the action!

DOPAMINE DECOR PALACE INSIDERS

Aglow with beaming yellows and baby pinks (and all the At Petworth House in West Sussex, the dividing line blurs
rest of the spectrum besides), the Birmingham home of beautifully between garden and ancestral home, from deer
interior decorator and stylist Richard O’Gorman floods grazing by windows to shrubs filling Rococo rooms with
the brain with all the good chemicals honeysuckle aromas

THE FLORAL HIGH GROUND BIER BONES

On a mountainside in Piedmont, Paolo Pejrone has Immersed in a vast swathe of her one-of-a-kind collection,
created his own slice of paradise, one that eschews all Emma Hawkins shows us her late Georgian villa-cum-
pesticides. Here, surrounded by animals, the esteemed showroom on west London’s Ladbroke Grove and reflects
gardener lives in splendid isolation on her story so far

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 B R I TA I N | P R O P E R T Y

FRENCH FASHION
Whether it’s an elegant flat in Paris, a chateau in the
countryside or a villa on the Riviera, owning a property
in France is surely the peak of chic

16TH ARRONDISSEMENT, PARIS

Located on the top floor of a historic building,
this magnificent apartment includes an
imposing marble entrance hall and beautifully
proportioned rooms with views of the Parisian
skyline. There are three bedrooms, including
a master suite, and multiple reception rooms.
€9 million.
Engel & Völkers: 00 33 145 643 030

F
rance has long held an irresistible
appeal to Anglophones, with
its beautiful architecture, rich
cultural heritage and excellent
food and wine. Different personalities
gravitate towards different parts – the
cosmopolitan crowd are drawn to
Paris, while country bumpkins prefer
France’s rural areas; sporty types head
for the Alps, and the jet set flock to the
French Riviera.
‘The Paris market has been extremely
busy since late August, partly driven by
the strength of the dollar,’ says Susie
Holland of the estate agency Vingt
Paris. ‘In particular, there’s a strong
micro market for properties with a top
address and a view, and that don’t need
too much renovation.’
Take the above apartment, for
example, with its fantastic outlook that
takes in two of Paris’s most famous
landmarks: the Arc de Triomphe and
the Eiffel Tower. With soaring ceilings,
enormous windows and classical
architectural details, the property
brims with light, space and charm, and
the majority of its rooms open out onto
large balconies. The formal reception
rooms are particularly notable, with
their ornate Belle Epoque decorative
mouldings (the building was built in
1908) and equally elaborate floors in
marble and wood.
Outside the capital, there are plenty
of regions that offer a lot in terms of
 VILLA VOGUE,
ALPES-MARITIMES
Situated in a prime location on
the Cap d’Antibes – one of the
most desirable spots on the French
Riviera – this villa comes with sea
views and its own private beach.
The property includes seven
bedrooms, a fitness centre and
wine cellar, while outside there’s
a generous garden and a
swimming pool. €26.9 million.
Sotheby’s International Realty:
00 33 492 921 288

8TH ARRONDISSEMENT, PARIS

Close to both the Avenue des Champs Élysées and
Avenue George V, this stylish apartment is presented
in turnkey condition with contemporary interiors.
With exceptionally high ceilings and almost 300
square metres of space, this four-bedroom property
makes for a luxurious Parisian base. POA.
vingtparis.com

FLEURANCE, GERS
This wonderfully romantic chateau occupies a bucolic
spot in a tranquil part of south-west France. The
chateau itself has six bedrooms, while the estate
provides additional accommodation in the form of
two further properties – there’s also a tennis court, a
swimming pool and equestrian facilities. €2,195,000.
Savills: 00 33 556 713 659

both properties and lifestyle. One such

area is the South West. ‘Its appeal lies
in its scenery, its accessibility and the
open space it offers,’ says Alice Storrie
of Savills. ‘Some of our buyers may not
want a property with acres of land, but
they do appreciate being surrounded
by open countryside – something
FAYENCE, VAR
the wider South West region has in Set on 28 acres, this Provençal estate comprises a traditional bastide and a guest
abundance.’ house, and comes with terraced olive groves and a vineyard. It’s the perfect spot
It’s easy to see how one of Savills’ for family gatherings, with a covered terrace off the generous kitchen, an outdoor
current listings in Fleurance, Gers, dining areas and a heated pool. €3.75 million.
home-hunts.com
would tempt buyers from around the
 globe. Surrounded by its own land and
set at the end of a 1.5 kilometre drive,
this quintessentially beautiful chateau is
in good condition, with plenty of original
features and ancillary accommodation.
Meanwhile, there’s another extraordinary
mansion for sale further south in the Côte
d’Azur, set high above the coast in a prime
spot just west of Monaco. Impressive in
both scale and position, Villa l’Aiglon is
one of the area’s most notable private
homes – a true dream retreat.

CANNES, ALPES-MARITIMES
Occupying an elevated spot overlooking the bay at Cannes, this fully
renovated bastide has a maritime panorama that spans from the islands of
Lérins to Saint-Tropez. Highlights of the property include the large infinity
pool flanked by shady terraces and places to soak up the sun. POA.
Beauchamp Estates: 00 33 493 944 545

MONFLANQUIN,
LOT-ET-GARONNE
Set atop a hill surrounded by 68 hectares
of rolling meadows and sunflower fields,
this charming estate is steeped in history. It
comes with several secondary properties and
would be perfect for equestrian enthusiasts,
as there’s a covered indoor arena, a sand
school and a gallops. €3.9 million.
Savills: 00 33 556 713 659

ROQUEBRUNE-CAP-MARTIN, ALPES-MARITIMES
Located east of Monaco and west of Cap Martin is a palatial villa
that was built in 1891 and commands fantastic sea views. It has
five storeys, with 30 rooms, including 10 bedrooms.
Outside, there’s a swimming pool, terraces, mature gardens
and a separate staff house. €39 million.
Sotheby’s International Realty: 00 33 492 921 288

CAP D’ANTIBES, ALPES-MARITIMES

Another standout property on the Cap d’Antibes is
this 10-bedroom villa, surrounded by landscaped
gardens and occupying an enviably private setting.
There’s plenty to recommend it, from the sea views to
the curving 1930s marble staircase that provides a
striking focal point to the interior. €26.75 million.
Engel & Völkers: 00 33 493 686 472
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 READY TO SEAL THE DEAL
I
dentifying your dream home in Central London – never mind the As discreet, bespoke, fully independent
confident acquisition of such a high-value investment – can be a
daunting process. With the keys of many of the most desirable
advisors, Aykroyd & Co leverage their
properties passing hands ‘off-market’, it’s easy to feel like an outsider. under-the-radar network to empower clients
Within an ever-changing market, one thing is certain: the sale of best- to make the right decisions to secure their
in-class family houses and large apartments remains highly competitive,
dream residential property in Prime Central
with prospective buyers encountering tense best-bid situations on the
few properties available. If, however, you enter the fray represented London and South West London
by independent advisors Aykroyd & Co, you come armed with a
secret weapon.
As a boutique, utterly discreet and speedy service, Hannah Aykroyd and
her team act solely on behalf of buyers. Understanding that the purchase
of a home is an emotional experience as well as a financial investment,
they safeguard each client from the intricacies of a painstaking search and
work exclusively in their client’s interest through to completion. Their
service extends to an extraordinarily thoughtful roster of professional
aftercare, courtesy of their trusted network of private bankers, lawyers,
surveyors, architects, project managers, interior designers, planning
specialists, educational consultants and so on.
‘We are here to save clients time and money and make the process as
enjoyable as possible,’ says Aykroyd. ‘In what is a complex and gossipy
market, we have absolute respect for privacy. As objective advisors, we are
here to source the very best properties, educating our clients along the way,
writing comparable reports on options, providing transparency on market
prices, empowering them to make the right decision when it’s time to act.’
All of this is done with a personal touch.
Much of the ease of the process is due to Aykroyd & Co’s forensic due
diligence in sourcing suitable properties that are likely to be off-market.
Having sensitively established a client’s requirements, the team – each
advisor working with only four or five clients – undertakes a meticulous
previewing process, employing a tried-and-tested team of professionals to
assess any potential challenges. A law graduate, Aykroyd’s respect in the
field means she is one of a select few who are invited to see the most hush-
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF FINCHATTON

hush of off-market opportunities.

On such a basis, she recently acquired a Grade II* listed house in
Chelsea: ‘We were just one of three parties permitted to view it. Three
days later, it went to “best bids” and I secured it for my British clients, who
are Chelsea stalwarts, and are now the proud owners of a unique property.’ WINNING TEAM
Clockwise from top left,
For further information, please see oydco.com or call +44 (0)203 034 0078 Hannah Aykroyd, Edward
or oydcoproperty Towers, Abi Frankish and
Chloe Leefe
 STOR E
Timeless prints from the world’s most iconic artists
condenaststore.com

CLOCKWISE, Mulberry
Square in bloom, inspired by
the Chelsea Flower Show;
a public sculpture trail; the
inaugural Chelsea Barracks
Spring Fair; Theo Fennell’s HQ
in Garrison Square
GARDEN GEMS
OF BELGRAVIA
Drawing on the local heritage of specialist gardens and the
neighbouring RHS Flower Show, Chelsea Barracks celebrates
the appeal of horticultural art and wellbeing for all the
T
community both in its landscaping and second Spring Fair
he world’s great capital cities
have their own iconic residential
architecture – think brownstone
houses in New York, glass-walled
penthouses in Singapore, 19th-
century apartments overlooking tree-lined
boulevards in Paris. In London, the most
desirable addresses have always conformed
to the template of the great Georgian
townhouses and formal garden squares of
Belgravia, whose symmetry and grandeur
confer a certain status on those lucky enough
to live in them.
The good news is that number is soon to
increase with the development of 12.8 acres of
land between Belgravia, Chelsea and Pimlico.
Previously a British Army barracks, and out
of public reach for 150 years, it is being
transformed by Qatari Diar Europe into a
new, prestigious neighbourhood that will
merge aesthetically with the sophisticated
ambience of the surrounding streets.
Chelsea Barracks comprises a rare collec-
tion of apartments, penthouses, mews and
townhouses built in Portland Stone as well as
village-style restaurants, shops and a state-
of-the-art health club and spa. A glorious
five acres is being dedicated to prettily
landscaped public green space, with seven
garden squares at its heart, planted with
native species of flowers and medicinal plants,
inspired by the nearby Chelsea Physic Garden
which was established in the 17th century
by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries.
Mulberry Square, for example, has been
designed as a communal kitchen garden.
In taking a conscientious approach to
creating future-proofed living in a historic
setting with the highest global standard
of sustainability, Chelsea Barracks has been
awarded LEED (Leadership in Energy
and Environmental Design) Platinum
certification. Chelsea Barracks is the most
sustainable development in Europe and one
of only 16 in the world. The philosophy is
resolutely outward-looking: last year, Chelsea
Barracks launched its inaugural Spring Fair
to celebrate its public spaces and the
neighbouring Chelsea Flower Show. 2023
will see a larger event, featuring seminars
B R I TA I N | P R O P E R T Y
NOTEBOOK
An update on the prestigious London
development that showcases green spaces
and interactive workshops with pioneers in
garden design, as well as an artisans’ market,
sustainable flower installations and food and
beverages. In addition, public sculpture trails
were launched to champion craftsmanship
and grassroots artists. These trails will be
updated throughout the year – another nod
to environmentalism.
This emphasis on the creative arts builds on
the presence of The Prince’s Foundation at
the Grade II-listed Garrison Chapel, whose
exhibition space showcases heritage craft
skills. In 2022, British jeweller Theo Fennell
added his renowned flair by establishing
his headquarters within the retail space at
Garrison Square.
Visitors to the Chelsea Barracks Spring Fair
this year will be able to enjoy a new restaurant,
The Campaner (from Barcelona operators of
the acclaimed Martinez restaurant). In an
award-winning space devised by architect Ben
Pentreath, The Campaner, too, will have
seasonality at its heart.
chelseabarrac .com
VOGUE ASKS

Which film should everyone watch?

“THE WIZARD OF OZ. It’s an
incredible allegory about finding
courage, heart, connection to your mind
and what you want.”
The book that
changed your
life? “ONE
HUNDRED
YEARS OF
SOLITUDE
by Gabriel
García
Márquez. It
cracked my
brain open to
boundary-less
storytelling.”
What is your beauty holy
grail? “AUGUSTINUS
BADER The Rich
Cream [£225].”

Have you ever been
starstruck? “The
first time I met
MERYL STREEP
I remember literally
falling at her feet.”
Where should I
go on holiday?
“For my
What would
Laura Dern do?
Advice on LIFE and STYLE from the American actor
How do you handle first-date nerves? Whose wardrobe would you love to raid?
I think it’s cool to be on a first date I suggest we all answer that question with
What’s your and be like, “Yep, this is who I am,” “myself ” – we all need to fall in love with
favourite item instead of pretending to be a things we haven’t worn in years.
of clothing in different person. Who would play you in a film of your life?
your wardrobe?
What is your signature scent? Reese Witherspoon knows me so well, but
COMPILED BY AMEL MUKHTAR. TOM SCHIRMACHER/TRUNK ARCHIVE;

son’s birthday “A cashmere

we went HERMES Essential oils. I take lavender I’d also like to see what Andrew Garfield
FLY- jacket I got when baths, and wear vetiver, orange would do because he knows my heart better
FISHING in I was first blossom and amber. than most people.
Colorado. I pregnant with
love fly-fishing my son. It Describe a dream day with You’ve transcended the whole idea of being a
– who knew?” always reminds David Lynch? “nepo baby”. What’s your advice to other
me of starting Making cappuccinos, looking at art children of famous people?
my life as a
mother.” Coat, and talking about life, followed by our Don’t read articles about nepo babies! I don’t
£6,820 favourite Italian dinner. think the people writing know how much
Which up-and-coming actor should insecurity it can create for children already
GETTY IMAGES; PIXELATE.BIZ

everyone be taking note of?
In The Banshees of Inisherin I
discovered actors I had never known before,
and all the young actresses in The Woman
King are incredible.
How can I be more joyful?
By scheduling in laughter every day.
raised with the thought, “Will I ever be enough
in the shadow of my parent?”
What are you most grateful for today?
My children. My amazing parents. That I have
found a job I truly love.
Honey, Baby, Mine by Laura Dern & Diane
Ladd (Hachette, £22) is published on 25 April
CHANEL.COM

EAU DE PARFUM