the

KNITTING
BOOK
VIKKI HAFFENDEN • FREDERICA PATMORE
CONTENTS

6 Foreword 148 I-cord 282 Men’s textured hat

8 About this book 152 Lace knitting 284 Men’s striped sweater

154 Colorwork 288 Cute hooded baby jacket

MATERIALS 165 Textural and color effects 292 Baby blanket

12 Yarns 174 Structural effects 294 Child’s owl toy

34 Embellishments 180 Short rows 298 Child’s Fair Isle bobble hat
186 Circular knitting 300 Geometric coasters
TOOLS 194 Reverse, twice knit, and
302 Elegant table runner
Tunisian
38 Knitting needles 304 Checkered pillow
196 Finishing details
42 Other equipment 306 Checked blanket
220 Embellishments
48 Garment care 308 Chunky pillow
238 Knitted toys
310 Color-block blanket
244 Felted knitting
SWATCH GALLERY 314 Magma felted pillow
247 Using unusual yarns
52 Stitch pattern gallery 316 Arm-knitted rug
252 Arm knitting

TECHNIQUES PROJECTS STITCH PATTERNS

88 Key techniques
264 Harlequin scarf 320 Stitch patterns

118 Preparing and repairing 266 Delicate lace shawl

122 Following stitch patterns 270 Cabled armwarmers 356 Glossary

126 Following a pattern 272 Textured women’s shrug 358 Index

128 Increases and decreases 276 Cozy double-sided scarf 363 Acknowledgments

146 Twists and cables 278 Women’s cardigan 364 About the authors
6

FOREWORD

Every knitting book claims to be the one you they have been using for many years. I also hope

should own, but The Knitting Book truly is one to have that students studying textiles and fashion will

at your side. If you are new to knitting, there is plenty find this book to be a valuable resource to inspire

of informed advice about choosing equipment and and enable their creativity.

yarns, and the beautifully photographed step-by-step As you leaf through the pages you will find that

instructions will gently lead you through casting-on techniques are helpfully grouped together by type,

and knitting your first stitches. As your experience and with lots of additional information and hints and tips

confidence grows, every technique—from purl stitch about how or where to best use them in your knitting.

to garment making—is clearly explained so that you Garment finishing details, including buttonholes

will be able to build on your skills at your own pace. and pockets, are explained, as are instructions

More experienced knitters will find new techniques to for embellishing your knitting. More challenging

try out; they may even find fresh variations of those techniques, such as intarsia and cables, are also put
 FOREWORD 7

under the step-by-step spotlight. These then feature store of knowledge and skills accumulated through

in the stitch pattern library alongside lace, Fair Isle, my own design and teaching practice. As such, I do

and textural patterns. This comprehensive library hope that it will become your indispensable reference

really helps you see how combining individual book. I am confident that no one will put this book

techniques from the step-by-step techniques section down without having learned something, and that

can produce gorgeous, colorful, and textural knitted anyone even slightly interested in knitting will enjoy

fabrics. Of course, the big advantage of this book is owning it and, most importantly, using it.

that while working the stitch patterns, you can refer

to the step-by-step instructions for help at any time.

Having been a knitter for more years than I care to

count, and have taught knitted textile design for most

of these, I am proud to say that this book represents a DR. VIKKI HAFFENDEN
8

ABOUT THIS BOOK

This book is suitable for all knitters, chapter makes up the majority of the book, taking you

whether you have never held a pair of knitting needles through more than 250 techniques, including those

before or have been knitting for years. All of the key for starting off and understanding a pattern, and then

areas are covered—tools and materials, stitch moving on to each specific discipline, from cables and

patterns, techniques, and projects—providing lace knitting to colorwork and embellishing. This new

everything you need to get knitting. edition also includes arm knitting.

Start by familiarizing yourself with the Materials The Projects chapter contains 20 fantastic ideas

and Tools chapters—which are packed full of essential covering a range of skill levels and a variety of

and specialized gear for a variety of disciplines. The techniques. Bring your skills to fruition knitting hats,

Swatch Gallery shows all of the beautiful fabrics you scarves, and garments, as well as items for the home.

can make using the techniques in this book, many of With The Knitting Book, you’ll find everything you need

which only need simple stitches. The Techniques to knit with accuracy, confidence, and flair.
MATERIALS
 12

YARNS
M AT E RIAL S

Yarn is the long, stranded, spun fiber that we use for knitting. There are many types of yarn,
allowing knitters to enjoy a variety of sensory experiences as they express themselves through the

medium. Yarn may be made of different fibers (see pp.12–19) and have a range of textures (see

pp.20–24). The possibilities are exciting: you can, in theory, knit with anything—from a skein of

supple silk sock yarn to the plastic bag that you used to bring it home. Choose from a color palette

that sweeps from subtle, muted tones to eye-popping brights.

FIBERS
Yarns, like fabrics, are made from fibers. A fiber may be the hair from an animal, man-
made (synthetic), or derived from a plant. The fibers are processed and spun to make
yarn. Yarn may be made from a single fiber, such as wool, or mixed with other fibers to
enhance its attributes (for example, to affect its durability or softness). Different blends
are also created for aesthetic reasons, such as mixing luxurious silk with wool to add
a lustrous sheen. As a result, all yarns have different properties, so it is important to
choose an appropriate blend for your project.

NATURAL FIBERS

Wool ▶
The wool fleece of a variety
of breeds of sheep, such as the
Shetland and Bluefaced Leicester,
is made into pure wool yarns or
blended with other fibers. It is
very warm and durable, and ideal
for winter wear such as jackets,
cardigans, hats, and gloves.
Rough-feeling wool contains
short, coarse fibers that may
irritate, so clothing worn next
to the skin is best knitted with
softer types. Unless labeled
“superwash,” wool should always
be carefully handwashed.
 YARNS 13

◀ Merino wool
This special wool is from the
merino sheep, which has one
of the finest wools of any sheep
breed. The long, lustrous fibers
produce a soft yarn that is a
fantastic choice for items that
will be worn against the skin,
such as scarves, armwarmers,
and children’s garments. It is
commonly blended with other
fibers and is often treated to
make it machine washable.

◀ Mohair
This fiber is the hair of the
angora goat, and it produces
a unique natural “halo” when
knitted up. Working with it is
quite challenging, since its
fuzzy appearance makes it
difficult to see the structure of
the knitting and any mistakes
made. Mohair makes particularly
interesting oversized sweaters
and accessories. It is not
recommended for use in baby
clothes, since it may shed hair
when newly made, which could
be dangerous if inhaled.

◀ Alpaca
This fiber has a luxurious
feel and is one of the warmest
natural fibers you can use for
knitting. Even a fine, sport-weight
garment provides sufficient
insulation in bitterly cold
weather. The alpaca is related
to the llama. Alpaca yarn is
perfect for ski hats and thick,
cozy sweaters and socks. You
will also find baby alpaca yarn
available, which is even softer.
 14 YARNS

Cashmere ▶
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This fiber is the soft

undercoat from a goat, which
makes an ultra-luxurious,
velvety-soft yarn. It is light
but strong, and usually offers
more yardage per gram than
equivalent yarns in other
fibers. Cashmere is an
expensive fiber to produce
and is often blended with
other fibers to add softness
and a touch of luxury. It
should be enjoyed close to
the skin in scarves, cowls,
or sweaters. Only ever
handwash this fiber.

Angora ▶
The lush coat of the angora
rabbit produces a fiber that
is soft and long. It is usually
blended with other fibers to
produce yarns that have a
furry “halo” effect similar to
mohair. Each individual hair
is very silky and the resulting
spun yarns, although soft,
tend to shed fibers. Angora
makes delightful knits but
is very delicate, so it is not
recommended for bags or
housewares. As with other
delicate fibers, check the
ballband for care instructions.

Matte cotton ▶
Cotton is the fluffy mass that
grows around the seeds of the
cotton plant. It is spun into
a breathable, summery fiber.
Most cotton yarns are easy
to wash, and when cared for
correctly, can be incredibly
robust and last for decades.
It is therefore a good fiber for
housewares, knitted pouches,
and shoulder bags. Pure,
untreated cotton is ideal
for hand-dyeing.
 FIBERS 15

Mercerized cotton ▶
Cotton yarn can be mercerized,
a treatment during which it
undergoes mechanical and
chemical processing to
compress it, transforming it
into an ultra-strong yarn with
a reflective sheen that does not
shed lint. Mercerized cotton is
usually a more expensive
choice, but it is perfect for a
project that needs to be strong
and hold its shape, such as a
shiny evening bag, a long
summer cardigan, or a throw
that requires regular washing.

◀ Silk
The silkworm is a caterpillar
that eats mulberry leaves and
spins a cocoon in which it
develops into a moth. To make
the cocoon, the caterpillar
extrudes a fine silk filament;
these filaments are twisted
together to make silk yarn.
Mulberry silk is very fine,
lustrous, and sleek, while that
of the tussah silk moth is a
little thicker and less lustrous;
both are extremely strong.
Because of its extraordinary
source, silk fiber has always
been expensive. Its luxurious
texture makes it ideal for
wedding and christening gifts,
and indulgent fitted knitwear.

◀ Linen
This fiber is commonly derived
from the flax plant. It is
somewhat wiry, with an oily,
waxy surface, but blossoms
into a sleek, soft, breathable
yarn that is ideal for knitting
into lightweight cardigans and
tops to wear in warm weather.
 16 YARNS

Hemp ▶
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The hemp plant is particularly

versatile, and the use of its
fibers for knitting yarn is one
of its less common applications.
Hemp has an earthy roughness
that will soften with age and
wear. It is usually produced in
an environmentally friendly
way, and the strong fiber is good
for knitting openwork shopping
bags and housewares such
as placemats and coasters.

Ramie ▶
A plant from the nettle family
yields the fiber called ramie.
The inner bark of the plant
is processed into fibers that
have a luster but are a little
brittle, so they are usually
blended with other fibers
before being spun into yarn.
As with other vegetable fibers,
ramie does not insulate
well, but it does produce a
breathable, durable fabric.

BIOSYNTHETIC FIBERS

Soy and milk protein ▶

Proteins derived from soy and
milk (casein) can be used to
make fibers, which are often
seen in blended yarns. The
stringy, sleek fibers add a soft,
draping quality to fibers such as
linen or wool. Yarns containing
soya protein are less likely to be
machine-washable and do not
retain heat particularly well.
They are more suitable for
lightweight shrugs, flowing
cardigans, and summer wear.
 FIBERS 17

◀ Bamboo
Bamboo fibers used in
handknitting yarns are
produced by crushing the
stems to produce a linenlike
fiber or by chemically processing
the pulped plants, in which case
it is called “bamboo viscose.”
The fiber has a sheen and feel
that resembles silk, and it knits
best when blended with other
fibers. Bamboo improves the
breathability and elasticity of
pure cotton and is ideal for
summer clothes and shawls.

Developments in biosynthetic fibers

Fibers can be produced from a wide range of natural sources including banana,
pineapple, seaweed, and chitin (present in crabs, shrimp, lobsters, and fungi).
Apart from soya, bamboo, and viscose, these are not widely available in
handknitting yarns, and where they do appear they are blended with other
fibers. These alternative fibers are being developed to reduce the environmental
impact of traditional fiber production and disposal, and some claim additional
health benefits for wearers.

SYNTHETIC FIBERS

◀ Microfiber
With its velvety softness,
microfiber is increasingly
common in blended fiber yarns.
Synthetic fibers such as this may
not appeal to you, but they are
often included in a yarn to
reduce density, increase softness,
or to prevent excess fiber from
migrating and pilling on the
surface of knitted fabrics. Despite
these advantages, there are
concerns that plastic microfibers
are being released into the
environment during laundering.
 18 YARNS

Metallics ▶
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Although not a fiber, metallics

are part of the library of yarns/
fibers that is available to
knitters. Lurex and other
metallic yarns make highly
effective trims and decorations.
They may be uncomfortable to
wear if used on their own, but
if blended with other yarns,
they create very interesting
mixes and are fun to
experiment with.

Acrylic ▶
Acrylic fibers are produced
from ethylene, which is derived
from oil, and they are very
cheap to manufacture. Acrylic
yarn feels slightly rougher than
other synthetics, and often
comes in very bright and
luminous shades that are
hard to create with natural
fibers. Robust and resistant to
moths, acrylic yarn is ideal for
toys, novelty knits, and budget
projects. The yarn does tend to
accumulate static electricity.

Nylon ▶
Polyamide, or nylon, is
an incredibly strong and
lightweight fiber. Its elasticity
makes it perfect for knitted
fabrics, and it is often used to
reinforce yarn blends for items
that may be subjected to heavy
wear, such as sock and darning
yarns. Like other man-made
fibers, nylon improves the
washability of the fibers it is
blended with by preventing
shrinkage and felting.
 FIBRES 19

YARN BLENDS

◀ Wool and cotton mixes

The strength and softness
of cotton adds smoothness,
breathability, and washability
to wool’s very warm (and
sometimes scratchy) qualities.
The blend is great for those with
sensitive skin and for babies.
Cotton and wool absorb dye
differently, which may lead to
a stranded color appearance in
such blends. Wool sheds fewer
hairs when mixed with a
stabilizing plant fiber.

◀ Natural and
synthetic mixes
Man-made fibers are often
blended with natural fibers to
bring structure, strength, and
washability; but it can be for
aesthetic reasons, too, such as
to add a sheen. They help bind
other yarns such as mohair and
wool together, and prevent
shedding; they also prevent
animal fibers from shrinking.
The strength of such blends
makes them perfect for socks
or gloves.

◀ Synthetic-only mixes
Manufacturers can mix
man-made fibers to create a
variety of textures such as furry
eyelash yarns, soft and smooth
babywear yarns, and chunky
aran substitutes. Although they
do not hold much warmth in
comparison to animal fibers,
most synthetic-only blends
can be washed frequently and
some can even be tumble-dried.
 20 YARNS

SPECIALTY YARNS FOR TEXTURAL EFFECTS

For knitters who love something a bit different, specialty yarns make life very exciting. From
velvety chenille to yarns with different textures, there is a lot to experiment with. Each yarn
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creates a different effect when knitted into a fabric, perhaps even looking like a fabric that has
not been knitted at all! Read this section to bring out your inner textile artist, and let the yarns
inspire you to create something fresh and edgy.

Chenille yarn ▶
This yarn is often composed
of cotton and synthetics, and
is made up of short fibers
emerging from a strong core.
A fabric knitted in it will have
a luxurious, velvety feel.
Chenille is ideal for a plain
stockinette stitch, but less so
for intricate patterns and for
work such as lace and cables,
as it can hide the detail. It
is a delicate yarn, which is
likely to deteriorate with
heavy wear and tear. It is
therefore most suitable
for plain-knitted garments
for adults, and for hats
and scarves.

Plied yarn ▶
A plied of “folded” yarn is
made up from more than
one strand of single-spun
yarn twisted together. The
number of “plies” held
together in a yarn (that is,
4-ply, 6-ply, or 8-ply) broadly
define its thickness, but this
will always depend on the
thickness of the yarns being
plied together. Most yarns for
handknitting are plied
because plying increases
stability as well as thickness.
Plying several colors together
creates marl yarns, and
plying different textures
creates effect yarns.
SPECIALITY YARNS FOR TEXTURAL EFFECTS 21

◀ Eyelash yarn
When mixed with other yarns,
eyelash yarn creates a variety
of effects, even resembling
faux fur. This hairy yarn is an
excellent choice for trims or
edgings, and is a popular
choice for scarves. It can be
found in many forms, with
combinations of metallic,
ribbon, and silky “hairs”
attached to a solid core.
It is usually knitted with
larger-size needles.

◀ Slub yarn
Slub yarn is characterized by
varying thickness along its
length. This effect resembles
some hand-spun yarn, and the
thick and thin areas create a
unique, somewhat uneven-
surfaced fabric when knitted.
The texture produced by slubby
yarn makes for unusual
accessories and outerwear
such as jackets.

◀ Braided yarn
Also called “cord” yarn, this often
has yarn made from a soft fiber,
such as wool or cotton, as the
core, which is then wrapped in
a finer yarn, such as metallic
thread or nylon. Stretch yarns
are often spun in this manner,
with a core of elastane. The
covering yarn is generally
wrapped quite densely, and
this smooth surface highlights
individual stitches, improving
overall stitch definition.
 22 YARNS

Soft-spun yarn ▶
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This type of yarn is usually

more aerated and less dense
than a regular yarn; multiple
strands of softly twisted
fibers are loosely plied
together. It can be made
from cotton, wool, or a blend
of fibers and when knitted,
it is light, bouncy, and very
soft. Very thick yarns are
often spun in this way to
prevent knitted garments
from being too heavy, or
subsequently losing their
shape. These thick yarns are
good for chunky, quick-to-
knit accessories such as
cowls and leg warmers.

Tape yarn ▶
The main characteristic of
tape yarn is its flat profile. It
may have been knitted as a
tubular “chainette” yarn and
flattened when wound into
a ball. A fabric knitted in it
varies, depending on whether
you twist the yarn when
knitting, or lay it flat over the
needle when working each
individual stitch. Twisting it
will produce a nubby fabric;
laying it flat will produce a
smooth surface on the
finished item.

Ribbon yarn ▶
The shape of ribbon yarn is
similar to that of tape yarn,
but usually a bit wider. Both
yarns are often comprised
of synthetic or plant-fiber
blends, to give them strength
and sheen. Ribbon yarn lends
itself especially well to
making pretty accessories
such as unique evening bags,
scarves, and belts. It is also
suitable for summer tops.
Many ribbon and tape yarns
are slippery, and special
attention must be paid to
gauge and handling.
SPECIALITY YARNS FOR TEXTURAL EFFECTS 23

◀ Bouclé yarn
Also known as “poodle” yarn,
bouclé yarn’s curly appearance
results from whirls of soft fiber
attached to a solid core yarn.
When knitted, these fiber
loops stand out and create a
poodle-fur effect. Bouclé yarns
often specify a deceptively low
gauge guideline as a result of
their overall thickness. This
yarn is a lovely choice for very
simply shaped garments, or for
adding interesting texture to
plain stockinette stitch knits.

◀ Tweed or Donegal yarn

The term “tweed” describes a
classic woven cloth composed
of wool, usually with flecks of
contrasting color present in
the cloth. Original tweed was
made of undyed fleeces from
a variety of colored sheep,
but nowadays they come in
a wide array of colors with an
assortment of bright to subtle
flecks. Tweed yarn may have a
“heathered” or a marl base and
the signature flecks are added
as it is spun so they sit on the
surface, adding texture and
color interest.
 24 YARNS
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Stretch yarn ▶
These yarns contain a small
percentage of stretchy elastane
fiber, which enhances the
natural springback of the
resulting fabric. The main fiber
may be natural, such as cotton,
but can also be blended or
totally synthetic. Stretch yarns
are more common in fine
to medium weights, and are
ideal for summer beachwear
and activewear.

Reflective yarn ▶
This yarn is made by plying a
thin strand of synthetic fiber
yarn that reflects light with
strands of more traditional
knitting fibers, such as wool,
acrylic, or nylon. Reflective yarn
is fun for decorative items or
partywear, but it is also perfect
for scarves, hats, and gloves to
provide additional but snuggly
safety for nighttime walkers
and bicyclists; it would also
make an extra-safe and cozy
dog coat for late-night walks. It
is available in different weights
across a range of colors.
 UNUSUAL YARNS 25

UNUSUAL YARNS
Subvert the traditional image of knitting with these radical departures from the historic
heritage of wool and the convenience of modern synthetic yarns. Expand your horizons from
everyday knitting and venture into the worlds of jewelry, sculpture, rugmaking, furnishings,
and even housewares such as bowls and boxes. Many materials can be used as yarns; here
are some ideas to experiment with.

◀ Plastic bags
Recycle plastic bags by cutting
them into strips and joining
these together with tight knots
or the chaining technique on
p.261 to form yarn. Create
interesting textures by mixing
colored and clear bags; the
joins will give more texture. Knit
on large needles, depending on
the width of the strips you have
cut; also choose the size
according to whether you want
a very tight or a floppy plastic
fabric. Use this technique to
make bags, mats, and waterproof
items such as toiletry bags or
garden seat covers.

◀ Wire
This unusual medium is often
used for knitting jewelry: buy
beading wire, which is available
in a range of colors, and knit it
into chokers, necklaces, and
bracelets. Try stranding beads
on the wire before you work and
place them in the knitting as
you go along (see p.220). For a
really unusual project, strand
the wire with another yarn to
knit a malleable fabric that
holds its shape, and make
three-dimensional sculptures.
 26 YARNS
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Fabric ▶
Traditionally, fabric from old
clothes and other textiles was
often made into doormats and
rugs by tying strips together.
Think about using fabric strips
to knit with, too. The needle size
will depend on how thick the
strips are. Some knitters have
used a pair of broom handles
to knit very thick strips of
raffia and furnishing fabric
into hugely chunky and
robust mats!

String ▶
Ideal for knitting practical
household items such as bowls
and boxes, string is available in
a range of colors and weights.
Experiment on relatively small
needles, such as US8 (UK6/
5mm), to create a very stiff
fabric capable of holding its
shape. Coat finished household
items with diluted craft glue
to waterproof them and make
future cleaning easy: just wipe
with a damp cloth.

Rubber, plastic, and

silicone yarns▶
This family of yarns includes
“jelly yarns” and is used to make
decorative accessories such as
belts and 3-D sculptures. They are
available in fluorescent, glittery,
and glow-in-the-dark versions
and in different weights. The yarn
may stick to knitting needles, so
work with plastic or metal
needles and use a lubricant such
as baby oil. Some have a hollow
core, making them lighter, with
potential for inserting wire to
sculpt the knitting.
 UNUSUAL YARNS 27

Wool roving ▲
This bulky fiber is fuzzy and lofty; the fibers lie parallel
with each other along its length. Roving is produced in
the early stages of fiber processing, before any twist is
introduced to form yarn. Consequently, wool roving
tends to pull apart when tugged lengthwise; it will also
shed fibers and may pill excessively. Before attempting
to knit or arm knit with wool roving, it is wise to felt the
fibers slightly. The fibers of synthetic roving are longer
and, therefore, it has more inherent strength. It is best
to avoid joining roving mid-project, and pieces appropriate
for both small and larger projects are available from
yarn suppliers.
 28 YARNS

BUYING YARN
Yarns are packaged in different ways. It is most common for knitting yarn to be sold
in balls, hanks, or skeins, and these are usually measured in yards or, for international
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yarns, grams. Larger quantities of yarn come in cones, most commonly sold for machine
knitting, and giant balls for arm knitting (see p.252) or knitting with giant needles.

◀ Ball
The stock in a yarn store will consist mostly of
balls of yarn. These are ready to use: just pull
the yarn from the center to start knitting.

Skein ▶
The oblong skein of yarn is
ready to use without any
preparation. Pulling the yarn
from the middle will allow you
to keep the label in place as you
work to ensure that the skein
doesn’t totally unravel.

◀ Cone
This is often too heavy to
carry around in a knitting bag
and the yarn is best wound
into balls before you start
knitting. Very fine yarns
designed for machine
knitting are sold in cones. If
you plan to use this type of
yarn, it is best to wind two
or more strands together into
a ball before you knit with it.
Hank ▶
A twisted ring of yarn, which needs to be
wound into a ball before it can be used.
You can do this by hand, or by using a
swift and a ball-winder (see pp. 46–47).
This gives you the opportunity to check
that there are no knots or faults in the
yarn as you wind it. Some yarns avaliable
as hanks consist of soft, delicate fibers,
and these are unsuitable for certain
industrial ball-winding machines.
 YARN LABELS 29

YARN LABELS
Everything you need to know about a yarn is on its label. It will include symbols that tell you
how to knit with it and how to clean it. Here is just a selection of the most common symbols.
Always keep the labels—they are vital for identifying the yarn if you run out and need more.
New yarn needs to have the same dye lot number as the original purchase in order to avoid
a slight difference in color in the finished item.

Symbols 22ss
Yarn manufacturers may
use a system of symbols

3
to give details of a yarn. 28r
4in rows
These include descriptions
of suitable needles and
the required gauge.
US 7 (UK 7/4.5mm) 4in

Yarn weight and Recommended needle Gauge over a 4in (10cm)

thickness size test square

SHADE/ DYE LOT 50g 100%

COLOR NUMBER NETT AT STANDARD

520 313
CONDITION IN
ACCORDANCE WOOL
WITH BS984
▲ Ballband
A yarn label is also known
as a ballband. It features Shade/color number Dye lot number Weight and length of Fiber content
information on the yarn’s yarn in ball
weight and thickness as well as
washing guidelines. Yarns range
from the fingering and light to
the thick, chucky, and bulky.

Machine-wash cold Machine-wash cold, Handwash cold Handwash warm

gentle cycle

A P
Do not bleach Dry-cleanable in any Dry-cleanable in certain Do not dry-clean
solvent solvents

Do not tumble-dry Do not iron Iron on a low heat Iron on medium heat
 30 YARNS

CHOOSING YARN COLORS

When embarking on a new knitting project, the choice of color is a very important decision.
The color wheel is a useful tool that will introduce you to color theory. Each segment shows
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the hue, shade, tone, and tint of a color. A hue is the pure, bright color; a shade is the color
mixed with black; a tone is the color mixed with gray; and a tint is the color mixed with
white (pastels). The use of color can affect the appearance of a project dramatically. When
picking colors for Fair Isle, use a mixture of dark, midtone, and pale shades to optimize the
contrasts in the pattern.

◀ Using a color wheel

Artists use this to see how colors work together.
Blue, red, and yellow are primary colors; green,
orange, and purple are secondary colors; and the
colors between these are tertiary colors. Colors
that lie side by side harmonize with each other.
Colors that are directly opposite, such as purple
and yellow, complement each other and provide
a bold contrast in a design.

Warm shades ▶
The warm end of the color spectrum
consists mainly of red and yellow tones;
browns, oranges, and purple are part of this
group. Use these colors to bring richness
and depth. A blend of warm shades can
be a very flattering mixture to use,
depending on your coloring: hold
yarn against your face to see
what suits you.

◀ Cool shades
Blue, green, and violet are at the cool end of
the spectrum, and these can be very effective
when used together. Cool colors are generally
darker in tone than warm ones. If used with warm
shades, their impact is lessened; if you need to
balance a warm mixture in a project, you will need
a higher proportion of cool to warm colors to do it.
 CHOOSING YARN COLORS 31

Pastels ▶
Black and white
These very pale, often cool variations of deeper,
You won’t see black and white on the
darker colors are very popular for babies’ and
color wheel, since they are not classified
small children’s garments; consequently, a
as colors. Black is an absence of all color
variety of suitable synthetic yarns and blends
and white is a combination of all colors
are available in these colors. Pastels also
in the spectrum. In yarns this is the
feature strongly in spring/summer
opposite; black will have been heavily
knitting patterns for adults; look for
dyed and bright white yarn will have been
ice-cream colors in lightweight
bleached of all color. Bear in mind that
yarns, and enjoy using a delicate
when using black, your work will be more
color palette.
difficult to see, but also that complex
textures will not be seen to best effect
in the final garment. White, however,
guarantees that every stitch and detail
will be clear.

Brights ▶
Vivid and fluorescent shades are fun to use in a
project, and often make particularly eye-catching
accessories or intarsia motifs. A great way to liven
up a colorwork project that consists of muted
shades is to add a bright edging or set of
buttons. This burst of color can change the
project’s overall impact completely.

◀ Seasonal mixtures
Nature can be a great source of inspiration,
particularly when planning garments knitted in Fair
Isle, intarsia, or stripes, where many colors will be
used simultaneously. Think about sunsets, fall leaves,
frosted winter berries, or vibrant spring flowers. Keep
a record in a sketchbook or in photographs, and notice
the proportion of each color in view. Most good yarn
stores change their range of colors according to the
season; in spring, for example, more pastels and
brights will be available.
 32 YARNS

YARN WEIGHTS
Yarns come in different weights and thicknesses, and in combination with needle size, this
will affect the appearance of a finished item and the number of stitches required to knit a 4in
(10cm) gauge swatch. Find the most suitable weight of yarn and needle size, according to the
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project, below. The samples opposite show what the yarns look like when knitted in stockinette
stitch. The yarn weight names give the common US term(s) first, followed by the UK term(s).

YARN WEIGHT CHART

WHAT DO YOU YARN YARN RECOMMENDED NEEDLE SIZES

WANT TO KNIT? WEIGHT SYMBOL
METRIC US OLD UK

LACE Fingering, 2mm 0 14

lace, 2-ply 2.5mm 1 13

Fingering

FINE-KNIT SOCKS, Sock, fingering, 2.25mm 1 13

SHAWLS, BABY baby, superfine, 2.75mm 2 12
CLOTHES 3-ply 3mm N/A 11
Sock 3.25mm 3 10

LIGHT SWEATERS, Sport, 4-ply, 3.25mm 3 10

BABY CLOTHES, fine, baby 3.5mm 4 N/A
SOCKS, 9
Sport 3.75mm 5
ACCESSORIES
4mm 6 8

SWEATERS, DK, Double-knit, 3.75mm 5 9

LIGHTWEIGHT light worsted, 4mm 6 8
SCARVES, 5–6-ply
BLANKETS, TOYS DK 4.5mm 7 7

SWEATERS, CABLED Worsted, Aran, 4.5mm 7 7

MENSWEAR, medium, Afghan,
BLANKETS, 12-ply 5mm 8 6
HATS, SCARVES, Worsted
5.5mm 9 5
MITTENS

RUGS, JACKETS, Chunky, bulky, 5.5mm 9 5

BLANKETS, HATS, craft, rug, 14-ply 6mm 10 4
LEG WARMERS,
Chunky 6.5mm 10 ⁄21
3
WINTER
ACCESSORIES 7mm N/A 2
8mm 11 0

HEAVY BLANKETS, Bulky, super 8mm 11 0

RUGS, THICK bulky, super 9mm 13 00
SCARVES chunky, roving,
16-ply and Bulky 10mm 15 000
upward 12.75mm 17 N/A

ACCESSORIES, Jumbo, roving, 12.75– N/A 17–50

BLANKETS, giant 25mm and
THROWS, RUGS and larger
Roving larger
 YARN WEIGHTS 33

KNITTING WITH DIFFERENT WEIGHTS OF YARN

Fingering/Lace/2-ply Worsted/Aran/12-ply
This yarn is extremely This thick, warm yarn
light, so 50g of yarn commonly uses US8
will have plentiful (UK6/ 5mm) needles.
yardage (meterage) It is good for men’s
and go a long way. garments with thick
If worked on needles cabled detail, and the
of the recommended result is not too heavy.
size, the yarn produces Works well for
a very fine-knit, functional items;
delicate result. many yarns in this
thickness employ
a large variety of
fibers to make them
machine-washable.

Sock/Superfine/3-ply Chunky/14-ply
An ideal choice for Although bulky, the
lightweight lace work, yarn mainly consists
it goes a long way per of lightweight fibers
ball, and requires to prevent garments
very slim needles. A from pulling out of
mohair-mix yarn such shape over time.
as the one shown can Commonly worked
be worked on slightly on US10½ (UK2/7mm)
larger needles and needles to create a
will produce a pretty, chunky fabric for
gossamer-light, open outerwear, hats,
fabric. Intricate and leg warmers.
lacework looks Quick to knit; perfect
stunning in this yarn. for gifts.

Sport/Fine/4-ply Bulky/Super
Many knitters prefer chunky/16-ply+
sport-weight to The yarn thickness
sock-weight, since it varies, but it is
uses a more comfortable commonly used with
needle size yet still very large needles
produces a very fine from US15 (UK000/
knit. This yarn is good 10mm) upward. A
for socks and baby great choice for
clothes; the small beginners, as stitches
stitches and neat are so large that
appearance also suit mistakes are easily
items with designs visible. Knits up very
that feature texture quickly; good for
or colorwork. rugged scarves.

DK (Double-knit)/ Roving/Jumbo/Giant
Light Worsted/5–6-ply These very thick, soft
Double-knit yarn is yarns are ideal for arm
used for anything from knitting. Although
blankets and toys to smaller items such as
sweaters and cardigans. snoods can be worked
It is mostly associated on exceedingly large
with US6 (UK8/ 4mm) needles, they are not
needles. This slightly generally long enough
thicker alternative, with for knitting blankets
the same attributes and throws. Even if
as sport-weight yarn, you could find long
knits up more quickly needles they will be
and may therefore be extremely unwieldy
preferable to work with. to use.
 34

EMBELLISHMENTS
M AT E RIAL S

Add dazzle and give your knitting an edge with embellishments, from embroidery to
beads, sequins, pretty trimmings, unique fastenings, and attractive notions such as handles. These

can completely change the feel of a project, depending on the way that you use them. Embellishment

gives you an opportunity to express your creativity: try some of the ideas here.

◀ Embroidery thread
Silky, shiny embroidery threads come in a
mixture of colors and styles. Metallic threads
are particularly interesting and will jazz up
a solid knitted background. Use a tapestry
needle to embroider knitting, remembering
that most embroidery threads stipulate that
they must be handwashed.

Machine embroidery thread ▶

This thread is very fine, and is sold on cones
or small reels. It is intended for machine
embroidery, but you could try double-
stranding a metallic one (check its yardage)
with a knitting yarn for a subtle hint of
sparkle. Alternatively, use variegated threads,
or several at the same time, with the yarn.

Ribbon ▶
When choosing ribbon, take the project with you to
color-coordinate effectively (although you may feel able
to remember a color, this is unreliable). Among the vast
choices available, you could try organza, patterned, striped,
or metallic ribbons. Thread them through your work, trim
an edge, or form them into bows or rosettes.
Knitting beads ▲
Most knitting beads are specifically manufactured
to be washable, and not to lose their color over
time, whereas other types may not withstand wear
and washing. They come in sizes for specific yarn
thicknesses, such as worsted, for example.
 EMBELLISHMENTS 35

◀ Bag handles
Knitted bags are given added
strength when carried on solid
bag handles. These will take
▲ Trimmings
the weight of the bag’s contents
There is a whole world of trimmings
without stretching out of shape or
for dressmaking: although these are
breaking. There are jazzy colored
less commonly used in knitting, they
plastic handles, wood, and metal
can impart a frilly, delicate feel to an
versions available, which can be
otherwise blocky project. Trimmings
used to make a bag look classic,
come in all shapes and sizes, from
contemporary, or quirky.
the glittery to virginal broderie
anglaise, fringe, and marabou
feathers, to name a few. Each
can add an exciting dimension
to your work.

Fastenings ▶
Choose fastenings with care, according to the type
of project and the yarn you are using, and make
sure they are not so heavy that they will pull the
knitting out of shape. Buttons usually double as
a feature, but other fastenings are more discreet,
such as a hook and eye or a snap. Sew these on with
knitting yarn or sewing thread. Use push-on snaps
for felted work. A second, flat button or a scrap of
firm fabric can be used to reinforce the back of the
knitting when attaching fastenings.

◀ Buttons
The choice of buttons for a
garment is an important one.
Sequins ▲
They are decorative as well as
Knit sequins into your work as you
serving a practical purpose;
go, or embroider them on afterward.
make sure you select them to
If you’re going to knit them in, look
suit the way that the garment
for pailettes, which have a larger
will be cleaned, or they may
hole than regular sequins, which are
have to be removed beforehand.
only suited to thin yarns. Choose flat
Coconut, shell, wood, and
sequins, which will sit flat against
metallic buttons are fairly
the work and each other, and are less
neutral and work with many
inclined to get scratched and lose
colors. Take your project with
surface color.
you to assess the way that
button shapes, colors, and
sizes work with it.
TOOLS
 38

KNITTING NEEDLES
Experienced knitters often settle on a preferred needle type according to their knitting
TOOLS

style and tension. Needles come in assorted types and are made of different materials, and both

have benefits when using particular techniques or working with certain fibers. Discover here how

to choose the most suitable needles for the project you have in mind.

STRAIGHT NEEDLES
Straight needles give a great deal of support to the hand when
knitting. If you are new to knitting, start with these. Short needles are
recommended for small projects; long needles are more suitable for
wider knits such as a pullover or a baby’s blanket, and for knitters who
like to work by holding the needles underneath their arms or elbows.

Metal needles ▶
When working with hairy fibers such as mohair or wool, which may
stick, slippery metal needles are great. If you find that you tend to
knit too tightly, the slippery surface can help, since it will cause a
knitter’s tension to loosen. Needles of more than US11 (UK0/8mm)
in diameter can be clunky to work with, so are rarely available.

Ebony/rosewood needles ▶
These wooden needles feel luxurious to work with, and can be
quite expensive. They often have a waxy surface, which becomes
smooth with wear, creating a soft and tactile surface. Like bamboo
needles, they help to create an even tension; they hold their shape
and remain straight when used, giving them a solid feel.
 STRAIGHT NEEDLES 39

◀ Size CONVERSION CHART

Knitting needles vary in diameter, from just 1⁄16in (1.5mm) thick
to more than 1in (25mm). There are three common needle-sizing
This chart gives the closest equivalents
systems: American, European metric, and old British sizes. The
between the three needle-sizing systems.
chart opposite shows you how to convert between systems;
If you have some old needles and are not
notice that there are not always exact equivalents. Needles are
sure of their size, buy a knitting needle
also available in various lengths to suit different projects and
gauge (see p.42) and push the needles
different ways of holding needles.
through the holes to establish their size.

EU METRIC OLD UK US
▼ Carbon-fiber needles with metal tips
Needles made from carbon fiber benefit from the properties
1.5mm N/A 000
of this hi-tech material. These needles are warm to the touch
and flexible like wooden needles, but are stronger and won’t 00
warp. Their sleek metal tips insert easily into stitches, and the
transition between tip and shaft is smooth so stitches do not 2mm 14 0
hitch as they slide along the needle. These combined materials
provide a comfortable and responsive knitting experience.
2.25mm 13 1
2.5mm

2.75mm 12 2

3mm 11 N/A

3.25mm 10 3
◀ Plastic needles
For needles with a surface that is halfway between that of metal
and that of bamboo, choose plastic. Plastic remains at a steady 3.5mm N/A 4
temperature during use, which may suit people who have
arthritis. Avoid plastic needles of US6 (UK8/4mm) or smaller, 3.75mm 9 5
since heavy projects may bend or break them.
4mm 8 6

4.5mm 7 7

5mm 6 8

5.5mm 5 9

6mm 4 10

◀ Bamboo needles
Bamboo is a lightweight, flexible material, and makes excellent knitting
6.5mm 3 101⁄2
needles. It helps to keep stitches regularly spaced, creating an evenly knitted
fabric with a good tension. Great for slippery fibers such as silk, mercerized 7mm 2 N/A
cotton, and bamboo yarn. Recommended for arthritis sufferers. Thin needles
will gradually warp slightly with use, to fit the curvature of your hand.
7.5mm 1 N/A

8mm 0 11

9mm 00 13

10mm 000 15

12mm N/A 17

◀ Square needles 15mm N/A 19

Most needles are cylindrical with a pointed tip; these unusual
new needles have a faceted surface and a pointed tip. Made
20mm N/A 35
from metal, they lie over each other better, which is particularly
useful when working with double-pointed needles, and cause
less strain on the hands, making them especially suitable for 25mm N/A 50
arthritis sufferers.
 40 KNITTING NEEDLES

DOUBLE-POINTED AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES

Some projects require you to knit in the round in order to produce a tube of knitting without
a seam. You can use both double-pointed needles and circular needles to do this, but the
choice of needles is usually down to length. Most circular needles are too long to knit socks
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or gloves on, so double-pointed needles, which can knit a very narrow tube, are used instead.
Your gauge and style will change according to which you use.

Bamboo double-pointed needles

Metal double-pointed needles

Plastic double-pointed needles

▲ Double-pointed needles
The traditional option for socks, gloves, and narrow tubes. These needles
come in various lengths to accommodate different-sized projects. At first, some
knitters may find that ladders form at the joins between the needles; however,
this problem will disappear with practice. Double-pointed needles are less
slippery when made of bamboo or wood, and most people agree that these
types are more comfortable to use.

Circular needles ▶
A flexible wire joins two needle tips to make a pair of
circular needles. These come in a selection of different
lengths and thicknesses. It is important to choose a
length that is most appropriate for your project: it
should match the anticipated diameter of the knitted
tube. For instance, a hat would call for shorter
circular needles than a pullover knitted in this
way. Knitting patterns usually specify the size
and length required. A technique enabling
the use of longer circular needles is shown
on p.188. A piece of flat knitting can also
be worked on circular needles: just turn
your needles around after each row
instead of working in the round.
 DOUBLE-POINTED AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES 41

◀ Interchangeable circular needles

These are a worthwhile investment if you think you will
use circular needles frequently in the future, or if you
generally prefer to use circular knitting needles for all
your knitting projects. These needles come as sets and
as individual components, so that you can build your
own collection. A set usually includes various lengths of
wires and screw-on needle tips in a range of sizes—along
with two plastic stoppers (to keep your knitting on the
wire safely) and a wire to tighten the needle tip onto
the wire itself. Simply attach your chosen tips to each
end of the wire to create a custom-made needle. Needle
materials range from metal, plastic, and bamboo to
high-tech carbon fiber.
 42

OTHER EQUIPMENT
Hundreds of different gadgets are available to knitters. Some are merely for
TOOLS

convenience, whereas others are absolutely vital and perform specific tasks. Here are the

absolute essentials; the more advanced, specialized items are shown on pp.44–47.

THE ESSENTIALS
These basic items should always be on hand when you are working on
a project. Most knitters have a portable knitting bag or case to keep them
in, so that it is easy to take everything to wherever they want to sit and
knit. The tools below are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased
from craft or yarn stores.
▲ Tapestry needles
These have a blunt tip in order to prevent damage to fibers,
which make them suitable for use by knitters. Make sure that
the eye is an appropriate size for the yarn: do not force yarn
through an eye that is too small or it will spoil it.

◀ Knitting needle gauge Scissors ▼

Many knitting needles, such
as double-pointed needles,
circular needles, interchangeable
needles, and vintage needles are
not marked with a size. It is vital
to know what size a needle is, so
poke it through the holes in the
gauge to find out. Many also
feature a ruler, which you can
use to measure gauge swatches.
Keep a pair of good-quality scissors on hand
for cutting off yarn and trimming ends. Sharp,
short-bladed scissors are perfect: They allow
you to snip very close to the work and so
trim darned-in ends neatly when
finishing a seam.

Stitch holders ▶
These are used to hold
Pins ▲
stitches that you will return
The large head on some pins prevents
to later. You could make
them from getting lost in a piece of
your own stitch holder from
work. Use them to pin pieces of
a piece of lightweight
knitting together when finishing work,
cotton yarn, a safety pin,
as well as to pin work out to the
or a paperclip.
correct measurements when blocking.
 THE ESSENTIALS 43

Tape measure ▲
Use this to measure the person for whom you are knitting
the piece, and for gauging sizing accurately. Also use it to
check gauge and measure knitting. Stick to using either
Imperial or metric measures, but not a mixture of both.

◀ Stitch markers
Use these to mark the
beginning and end of a panel
of stitches, and to identify the
end of each row when working
in the round. As you arrive at
a marker, transfer it from the
left-hand to the right-hand
needle; continue working
the row as normal.

Needle organizer ▲
Use this to keep your knitting needles organized and protected
against damage. Needle rolls and bags are available in a range
of shapes and sizes. Thick needles are best suited to a needle
bag (like a long pencil case); double-pointed needles can be
stored in a short needle roll. Knitting bag ▼
Bags for knitters often have many compartments,
perfect for storing equipment and materials for your
current project. To protect knitting from damp and
moths, keep a cedar cube (see p.49) inside.
◀ Row counter
Available as a tube that sits at
the end of a knitting needle:
change the counter when you
complete a row; also as a
clicker, which you “click” each
time you finish a row.

Point protectors ▲
Place these over fragile needle tips to guard against
damage; use them to protect your knitting bag from
punctures; and to stop stitches from sliding off
needles and unraveling when not in use.
 44 OTHER EQUIPMENT

SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENT
As you begin to use more advanced techniques, you will find that you need specialized
equipment. Each item is specific to a particular skill, such as colorwork, lace knitting,
and patterning with cables. If you are a new knitter and just learning the basic stitches,
TOOLS

do not worry about these items for now, but you will certainly need them in the future
as you become more experienced and try more ambitious projects.

Blunt-ended yarn needles ▶

To sew up projects and darn in ends, you need a
selection of different thicknesses of blunt,
large-eyed needles. These will not damage or
split delicate fibers and will slip between the
stitches when sewing seams. Those with a bent
tip can be more comfortable to work with. There
are even needles with a latch-eye that can be
opened to accommodate very thick yarns.
▲ Blocking wires and pins
These are used to block knitting, and are particularly
useful for fine lace, after handwashing or before steam
blocking. Thread the wires along the edge of the wet
(dry, if steam blocking) fabric as if sewing a long
running stitch. Measure and shape the fabric to the
correct dimensions before pinning the
wires down and leaving the
knitting to dry naturally.

◀ Latch hook
This latch-hook tool is
better than a crochet hook
for picking up dropped
stitches. The latch allows
you to pull the stitches
through each other cleanly
and the solid handle and
cranked shaft make it
comfortable to grip when
manipulating the yarn.

◀ Crochet hook
Available in different materials such as metal, wood,
and bamboo. A crochet hook makes it much easier
▲ Sharp-ended needles
to pick up previously dropped stitches. The slippery
Buy these with a large eye; use to secure darned-in
surface of the metal version probably makes this the
ends after finishing with the blunt-ended needle. A
most user-friendly type. You can also use a crochet
sharp needle may also be required when inserting a
hook for inserting tassels.
zipper or attaching trimmings to a piece of work.
 SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENT 45

◀ Chart paper
Use this knitters’ graph paper for
recording a colorwork design or
making a pattern chart. Knitted
stitches are not square: they are
wider than they are tall, so standard
graph paper will not be suitable.
Buy preprinted chart paper from
a craft store, or download it free
from the Internet.

Sock blocker ▶
This is the best way to block finished
socks to a neat shape. Handwash
the sock and pull gently to shape on
the blocker. As it dries, it will take on
the shape of the blocker. Sock blockers
are available in a selection of sizes. If
you use a wooden version, the sock can
be lightly steamed to shape instead.

▲ Yarn cutter
A convenient alternative to scissors. Insert the yarn
through the grooves in the yarn cutter in order to trim
it off. You may prefer to attach it to a cord to wear around
your neck while you work. When traveling by air, you can
use this if you want to knit during the flight, because
regulations often prohibit scissors in carry-on luggage.

◀ Cable needle
A kinked or U-shaped cable needle
is used when working cables; this
shape prevents cable stitches from
sliding away. Choose a size that is
closest to that of the needles used
for the main body of the knitting.
 46 OTHER EQUIPMENT

◀ Knitting dolly/ I-cord-maker ◀ Mini knitting mill

An I-cord is a narrow tube of knitting; This mechanical, hand-cranked
children love using this knitting dolly to cord-maker is suitable for 4-ply and
produce a piece of I-cord. Alternatively, DK-weight yarns. These usually have
TOOLS

a mechanical I-cord-maker, suitable for
4-ply and DK-weight yarns, allows you
to make long I-cords much more quickly.
four latch needles and allow you to
produce long pieces of I-cord much
more quickly than on a knitting dolly.
Use one of these to create your own
“chainette” or chunky tubular yarns.

▲ Wonder clips
Use these very handy clips as
an alternative to pins. They won’t
split yarn or catch threads. Use
them to match edges together
securely before seaming or when
setting a neckband onto a neck
edge. You can even use them to
clip yarn tails to knitting.
Stitch stoppers ▶
In a similar way to point
protectors for regular
needles, these stitch
stoppers are used to
prevent stitches from
falling off double-pointed
needles when they are
not in use.

Ball-winder ▶
This device allows you to wind hanks of
yarn into balls quickly, instead of doing it
by hand. Alternatively, use this handy
tool to wind two or more strands together
before you knit them, to make a neatly
wound, double-stranded yarn. Pulling
one strand through the center of
the other ball will twist the yarns
together at the same time.
 SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENT 47

▲ Swift
Use a swift together with a ball-winder to transform a
hank or skein of yarn into balls in half the time. Lay the
yarn around the edges of the swift and attach it to the
ball-winder. If you don’t have a swift, you will need to
find a volunteer to hold the yarn, or place it on a chair
back as you use the ball-winder.

Multiple
pom-pom maker
◀ Yarn bobbins
This frame enables
In the intarsia method of
you to make lots
colorwork (see p.164), you create
of small to medium-
numerous pieces of yarn in
sized pom-poms at
different colors in order to work
once. Use for larger
separate parts of each knitted row.
projects requiring
These handy bobbins keep each
multiple pom-poms
color neatly wound as you work.
such as garlands,
decorations, and rugs.
▲ Folding
pom-pom maker
These little devices
hinge open to allow
you to wind the yarn
quickly and evenly.
Then a metal prong
holds it all together
while you cut the
pom-pom. They
come in a range of
sizes and colors.

▲ Pom-pom rings
If you want to make a pom-pom to trim a hat, you
can make a circular cardboard template yourself. But
if you want to make more than one, try an easy-to-use
pom-pom maker or even one that makes lots of baby
pom-poms at once (see right).
 48

GARMENT CARE
After all the hard work of knitting a garment, it is important to protect it from damage
TOOLS

and to keep it looking new. Moths are one of the biggest threats; they love to lay their eggs in natural

fibers and the larvae will chew tiny holes, which are unsightly and cause knitting to fall apart. The

equipment below will help you to keep your knits in good condition.

◀ Lavender sachets
Lavender is a traditional and natural
deterrent to moths. Make your own
sachets from dried garden lavender,
crumbled into fabric or knitted bags.
Hang sachets in the closet, or slip into
drawers. Use also in sealed bags of
yarn for storage.
Pill remover ▶
Knitted items may pill (form nubs
on the surface). If this is severe,
shave them off with a pill-removing
comb or machine. Be gentle: Do not
pull at your work, or you may
damage it. Fabric softeners may
aggravate the problem.

◀ Mothballs
A chemical method of deterring
moths and insects. Slip them into
pockets or garment bags. They vary
from strong-smelling to subtle;
beware of the strong ones, since the
smell can be impossible to eradicate.

Mohair brush ▶
Mohair can flatten and lose its
halolike furriness after a wash or
prolonged storage. It is therefore
essential to invest in a mohair brush
to reinvigorate fuzzy knits with gentle
brushstrokes. You can also prevent
matting in areas subject to extra wear,
such as the underarms of a sweater.
 GARMENT CARE 49

◀ Garment bag
These are a must-have and are
available in a variety of styles, ranging
from simple zipped bags to lavender-
scented plastic bags, and bags that
allow vacuum packing in order to
reduce bulk and save space. Make
sure that bags are sealed properly to
prevent damp and insects from getting
in. Although a bag may appear secure
when folded over, moths are able to
wriggle in and out of small spaces and
make themselves at home.

Cedarwood shapes ▶ Wool wash ▶

Cedarwood has a subtle aroma, which some This very gentle soap will
people prefer to that of lavender and which also gently cleanse fibers and
deters moths. Available as cubes, blocks, and remove dirt without
rings, you can hang them in the closet, place damaging the yarn or
them in a storage bin, or put them inside bags pushing dye from it. It is
or boxes of yarn. The aroma fades over time, but now possible to buy a wool
they can be sanded down to refresh the natural wash that does not need
smell. Alternatively, apply a drop of grapefruit to be rinsed out, making
oil to each block, allow it to dry, and return the the handwashing of
blocks to your yarn stash for a moth deterrent precious knitted items
with added antibacterial properties. even more convenient.
SWATCH
GALLERY
 52

STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

S WATC H GALLE RY

These swatches demonstrate how the techniques on pp.88–251 can be turned into interesting
and original knitted fabrics. Even if you are new to knitting, you have probably already heard of some of the

well-known stitches, such as stockinette stitch and moss stitch, but what you might not know is that there

are many, many alternatives, creating any number of attractive effects, from striking cables and colorwork

to delicate lace patterns and beading. Take a look through this chapter to establish the kinds of effects that

appeal to you. From there you can find the relevant techniques in the next chapter, and the actual charts

and patterns in the Stitch Patterns chapter (pp.320–355).

KNIT AND PURL STITCH PATTERNS

Here are a few of the vast array of stitch patterns created by combining knit and
purl stitches. Each one produces a flat, reversible knitted fabric and is simple to work. Those
that have no specific right side look exactly the same on both the front and the back, and the
few with a marked right side have an attractive texture on the wrong side as well. Because the
edges of these stitches do not curl, they are ideal for making simple scarves, baby blankets,
and throws. See pp.116–117 for step-by-step guidance on knit and purl stitches.

SEED p.320 SINGLE RIB p.320

 KNIT AND PURL STITCH PATTERNS 53

DOUBLE RIB p.320 BASKETWEAVE p.320

TEXTURED RIB p.320 STRIPED BOX p.320

 54 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

STOCKINETTE BOX p.321 DIAMOND p.321

S WATC H GALLE RY

ENGLISH RIB p.321 FISHERMAN’S RIB p.321

 KNIT AND PURL STITCH PATTERNS 55

MOSS p.321 MOCK RIB p.321

TRAVELING RIB p.322 BROKEN RIB p.322

 56 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

BROKEN SEED p.322 GARTER RIB p.322

S WATC H GALLE RY

SEED STITCH COLUMNS p.322 DOUBLE SEED p.322

 INCREASING AND DECREASING 57

INCREASING AND DECREASING BASIC CHEVRON p.323

Knitted increases and decreases add shape and texture
to a piece. A huge variety of shapes and patterns can
be achieved by increasing or decreasing the number of
stitches on the needle. As your knitted structure changes
shape, the cast-on edge will not always remain straight,
adding an attractive wavy edge in most cases. This selection
of all-over patterns are worked by repeating a sequence, with
each pattern repeat combining increases and decreases to
cancel each other out so that the overall number of stitches
remains the same. These stitches will produce particularly
interesting scarves, shawls, and blankets. See pp.128–145 for
step-by-step guidance on increases and decreases.

GARTER CHEVRON p.323 FEATHER AND FAN p.323

 58 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

DIAGONAL RIB p.323 BLACKBERRY p.323

S WATC H GALLE RY

PUFF p.323 BOBBLE p.324

 INCREASING AND DECREASING: FLOWER PATTERNS 59

INCREASING AND DECREASING: TWELVE-PETAL FLOWER p.324

FLOWER PATTERNS
These flowers have all been designed to be easy to make using
simple increasing and decreasing techniques. Each flower is
worked as one piece, with little or no finishing required. As a
bonus, there is no need to darn in ends because you can use
the yarn tails to braid a simple stem. The finished flowers are
perfect for use as corsages, appliqué on blankets, pillow covers,
bags, scarves, and sweaters, or to decorate greeting cards. See
pp.128–145 for step-by-step guidance on increases and decreases.

SPINNING-PETAL FLOWER p.324 FLOWER WITH SMALL CENTER p.326

 60 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

FLOWER WITH LARGE CENTER p.326 ANEMONE p.325

S WATC H GALLE RY

LARGE LEAF p.325 PUFFBALL FLOWER p.325

 CABLE AND TWIST STITCH PATTERNS 61

CABLE AND TWIST STITCH PATTERNS FOUR-STITCH CABLE p.326

These patterns for cables and twists are all easy to work and are
a good introduction to these textures for beginners. To knit these,
try working the patterns from the written instructions for the first
repeat; then follow the chart for the next repeat to see how much
easier it is to use a chart for cables and twists. The twist patterns
add a more subtle texture and, with no cable needle necessary,
are quick to work, too. Cables and twists add texture and
thickness to a project, and are therefore ideal for plain garments
and accessories, such as a pillow cover. Cables will inevitably
shrink your project widthwise, so remember to cast on more
stitches than you would normally need. See pp.146–147 for
step-by-step guidance on cables and twists.

SIX-STITCH CABLE p.327 CHAIN CABLE p.327

 62 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

MOCK CABLE p.331 HORSESHOE CABLE p.327

S WATC H GALLE RY

GARTER ZIGZAG TWIST p.329 BRAIDED CABLE p.328

 CABLE AND TWIST STITCH PATTERNS 63

DIAMOND CABLE p.328 GARTER STITCH CABLE p.329

BOBBLE CABLE p.330 SMOCKED RIBBING p.328

 64 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

WOVEN CABLE p.330 WAVY CABLE p.331

S WATC H GALLE RY

FAN CABLE p.331 CABLE BOXES p.330

 LACE STITCH PATTERNS 65

LACE STITCH PATTERNS EYELET MESH p.332

Lacework is an easy way to add a delicate and elegant look to
shawls, scarves, garments, and blankets. If the background of
your chosen lace is stockinette stitch, you will need to include
a garter or moss stitch border around the piece. This can be
achieved by either picking up stitches and working the border
after the piece is complete; or working four rows of garter stitch
at the beginning and end of the knitted piece and four stitches
of garter stitch at the sides of the knitting. Alternatively, sew a
knitted or fabric trim edging all around the finished piece. See
pp.152–153 for step-by-step guidance on lace techniques.

LEAF EYELET p.332 GRAND EYELET MESH p.332

 66 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

VERTICAL MESH p.333 MINI-LEAF p.333

S WATC H GALLE RY

ARROWHEAD LACE p.333 ZIGZAG MESH p.334

 LACE STITCH PATTERNS 67

BIG LEAF LACE p.334 STAR EYELET p.334

DOMINO EYELET p.334 LEAVES LACE p.335

 68 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

DIAMOND LACE p.335 VICTORY LACE p.335

S WATC H GALLE RY

OPENWORK DIAMONDS p.335 FAGGOTING p.336

 LACE STITCH PATTERNS 69

SIMPLE DROP STITCH p.336 HORSESHOE LACE p.337

DIAGONAL LACE RIBS p.337 LADDER LACE p.336

 70 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

EYELET LINES p.336 DROPPED STITCH p.337

S WATC H GALLE RY

INTERWOVEN EYELETS p.337 NAUTICAL p.336

 COLORWORK PATTERNS 71

COLORWORK PATTERNS SIMPLE BORDERS p.338

Here are some easy-to-work stockinette-stitch colorwork
patterns. A few of the patterns are suitable for the Fair Isle
technique, and the remainder for the intarsia technique or a
combination of both. The borders can be worked individually for
simple bands of color, or repeated to make up an item in stripes.
If you have never tried colorwork, start with the Fair Isle patterns,
since they only use two colors in every row. See pp.154–164 for
step-by-step guidance on colorwork techniques.

REPEATING CIRCLES p.338 HEART p.338

 72 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

INTARSIA BIRD p.339 FAIR ISLE BLOSSOM p.339

S WATC H GALLE RY

INTARSIA FLOWERS p.340 INTARSIA FLOWER p.340

 COLORWORK PATTERNS 73

INTARSIA TULIP p.341 INTARSIA LITTLE LADY p.341

INTARSIA PUSSYCAT p.340 INTARSIA NUMBER AND LETTER p.340

 74 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

INTARSIA DUCK p.342 INTARSIA SKULL-AND-CROSSBONES p.342

S WATC H GALLE RY

FAIR ISLE HEART p.341 THREE-COLOR FAIR ISLE ZIGZAG p.339

 COLORWORK PATTERNS 75

INTARSIA CLIMBING VINE p.343 COMBINED FAIR ISLE AND INTARSIA ARGYLE p.342

INTARSIA SNOWFLAKE p.343

 76 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

FAUX COLORWORK PATTERNS PEEPING PURL p.343

S WATC H GALLE RY

Faux colorwork is a “cheat” technique where color is mixed across

your knitting without the need to work with two different yarns
on the same row. You use stitches worked on previous rows to
add a different color to the rows above by slipping these stitches
and pulling them upward to work them into a subsequent row
(see p.122). All stitches are slipped purlwise unless otherwise
stated. Since these patterns feature a large number of slipping
stitches, the finished knitted fabric is stronger and makes
excellent bags, pillow covers, and blankets.

GARTER SLIP STITCH p.344 BROKEN STRIPES p.343

 FAUX COLORWORK PATTERNS 77

ARROWHEAD p.344 WEAVER’S STITCH p.344

HONEYCOMB p.345 VERTICAL STRIPES p.344

 78 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

EDGING PATTERNS
S WATC H GALLE RY

Most of these easy edgings are worked lengthwise. If adding the edging to a blanket, knit a little extra
to gather at each corner. Do not cast off at the desired length; instead, slip the stitches onto a stitch
holder and sew on the edging around the blanket. Before casting off, you can then work more rows
if you need them. See pp.220–237 for step-by-step guidance on embellishing knitting.

PETAL EDGING p.345

PEAKS EDGING p.345

CHRISTENING EDGING p.346

 EDGING PATTERNS 79

PICOT RUFFLE EDGING p.346

PICOT EDGING p.346

FRINGE EDGING p.347 GODMOTHER’S EDGING p.347

 80 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

ARCHWAY EDGING p.347

S WATC H GALLE RY

BEADED EDGING p.348

OPEN WEAVE EDGING p.348

CABLED EDGING p.348

 MEDALLIONS 81

MEDALLIONS SIMPLE CIRCLE p.349

These simple medallions can be sewn together to form larger
pieces of fabric for throws, bags, and pillow covers. They can also
be worked singly into pieces big enough for a pillow cover or place
mat. Alternatively, the square and circle can form the base of a
container worked in the round (see p.250). See pp.186–193 for
step-by-step guidance on circular knitting.

SIMPLE SQUARE p.349 SQUARE WITH SWIRL INCREASES p.349

 82 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

SQUARE WITH OPENWORK p.351 HEXAGON p.350

S WATC H GALLE RY

SIMPLE OCTAGON p.350 MITERED SQUARE p.350

 BEADING STITCH PATTERNS 83

BEADING STITCH PATTERNS SUBTLE SPARKLES p.351

Beading adds a touch of sparkle to a project. The swatches
shown here use the beading technique where you strand beads
onto your yarn before you cast on for your project (see p.220).
When estimating bead quantities, it is best to thread on more
beads than you think is needed. This way, you will not need to
stop knitting to thread on more beads. Keep in mind that using
beads will add weight to your project, so it is advisable to use
fewer beads on big projects, such as sweaters and blankets. Always
use washable knitting beads. It is not recommended to add beads
to items intended for babies and small children. See pp.220–224
for step-by-step guidance on bead knitting.

DIAGONAL BEADING p.351 BEADED STOCKINETTE p.351

 84 STITCH PATTERN GALLERY

BEADED STRIPES p.353 BEADED CHEVRON p.352

S WATC H GALLE RY

BEADED CHECKERBOARD p.352 DIAMANTÉ p.352

 BEADING STITCH PATTERNS 85

BEADED GARTER p.352 PEEKABOO BEADS p.353

VERTICAL SEQUIN STRIPES p.353 ALL-OVER SEQUINS p.353

TECHNIQUES
 88

KEY TECHNIQUES
TECHNIQUES

Learning to knit is a very quick process. There are only a few key techniques
to pick up before you are ready to make simple shapes such as scarves, baby blankets, pillow

covers, and throws. The basics include casting stitches onto the needle, the knit and purl

stitches, and binding off the stitches.

MAKING A SLIP KNOT

Before you start knitting, you must first learn how to place the first loop on the needle.
This loop is called the slip knot and it is the first stitch formed when casting on stitches.

1 Begin by crossing the yarn coming from

the ball over the yarn end (called the yarn
tail) to form a circle.
2 Insert the tip of a knitting needle through
the circle of yarn, then wrap the needle tip
around the ball end of the yarn and pull the
3 This forms a loop
on the needle and
a loose, open knot below
yarn through the circle. the loop.
Yarn coming
from ball

Yarn tail

4 Pull both ends of the yarn firmly to tighten

the knot and the loop on the needle.
5 Make sure the completed slip knot is tight
enough so that it won’t fall off, but not so
tight that you can’t slide it along the needle.
6 The yarn tail should be at least 4–6in
(10–15cm) long so it can be darned in
later. Your knitting pattern, however, may
instruct you to leave an extra-long yarn tail
(called a long loose end) to use for seams or
other purposes.

Make sure
loop is secure
but slides
easily

Ball end
of yarn

Extra-long
yarn tail
 HOLDING YARN AND NEEDLES 89

HOLDING YARN AND NEEDLES

Although all knitting is formed in exactly the same way, you can hold the yarn in either
your right or your left hand. These two yarn-holding techniques are called the “English”
and “Continental” methods. Knitting is ambidextrous, so right-handed and left-handed
knitters should try both knitting styles to see which one is easier for them.

KNITTING “ENGLISH” STYLE

1 The yarn is laced around the fingers of

the right hand. Aim to control the yarn
firmly but with a relaxed hand, releasing
it to flow through the fingers as the
stitches are formed.
2 Try this alternative technique as well or
make up your own. You need to tension
the yarn just enough with your fingers to
create even loops that are neither too loose
nor too tight.
3 Hold the needles with the stitches
about to be worked in your left hand
and the other needle in your right hand.
Use your right index finger to wrap the
yarn around the needle.

KNITTING “CONTINENTAL” STYLE

1 Lace the yarn through the fingers

of your left hand in any way that
feels comfortable. Try both to release
2 In this alternative technique,
the yarn is wrapped twice
around your index finger.
3 Hold the needle with the unworked
stitches in your left hand and the
other needle in your right hand. Position
and tension the yarn easily to create the yarn with your left index finger and
uniform loops. pull it through the loops with the tip of
the right needle.
 90 KEY TECHNIQUES

ALTERNATIVE “CONTINENTAL” STYLE KNITTING

This alternative method makes knit stitches very easy and is ideal for garter or
TECHNIQUES

circular stockinette stitch. As you work near the tip, short tapered needles are best for
this method. When knitting Continental style you may find your tension loosens, in
which case use smaller needles.

ALTERNATIVE “CONTINENTAL” KNIT STITCH

For both the knit and the purl stitches,
wrap the yarn around your left little
finger, but keep it over all your fingers.
This makes purling easier.
1 Hold your index finger up with the yarn
over it and use the pad of your middle
finger to hold the yarn against the left needle,
2 Insert the right tip into the stitch, pull
and catch the yarn on your middle finger,
draw it through the stitch on the left needle
slightly forward of the stitch. and off.

3 At the end of
the row, keep the
yarn around your left
fingers. Swap the
needles to start
the next row.

ALTERNATIVE “CONTINENTAL” PURL STITCH

1 Hold the yarn as for knit stitch. Bring

yarn to front. With your index finger
raised and your middle finger touching the
left needle near the tip, insert needle as for
purl. Tilt the right tip toward you and then
back in a small circular movement so that
the yarn wraps over it.
2 At the same time, bring your left
index finger with the yarn on it
forward, wrapping the yarn around
the needle. Keep your index finger in
constant contact with the left needle.
3 Immediately dip the right needle tip
slightly away from you to hook the
yarn and pull the old stitch open. Take
the needle backward through the old
stitch and make a new purl loop. Slide
the old stitch off the left needle.
 SINGLE-STRAND CAST-ONS 91

ALTERNATIVE “CONTINENTAL” PURL STITCH—UNTWISTING AN INCORRECT STITCH

1 If, by mistake, you wrap the yarn under, instead of over, the right needle,
the front “leg” of each stitch will be farther from the needle tip than the
back leg. This is a twisted stitch.
2 To untwist the stitches on the following row, knit
into the back of the stitch. If you find it difficult
to master the correct wrap, but still wish to purl in
the Continental style, then work every knit row following
a purl row by working into the back of the stitch.

SINGLE-STRAND CAST-ONS
These cast-ons are all related to the Backward loop cast-on (below) and use one strand.
They tend to be soft, but can be made firmer by twisting. Alternating loop cast-on makes
a decorative edge. Casting on knitwise (see p.92) and Cable cast-on (see p.93) are useful for
casting on in the middle of a piece, for example, if you need to add more than one stitch when
increasing. When followed by Stockinette stitch, Casting on knitwise can curl toward the knit
side. For edges where this matters, choose a two-strand Tubular cast-on (see p.102).

BACKWARD LOOP CAST-ON (also called thumb or single cast-on)

1 This is the easiest cast-on. Hold the needle

with the slip knot in the right hand. Then
wrap the yarn around the left thumb as
2 Release the loop from the thumb
and pull the yarn to tighten the new
cast-on loop on the needle, sliding it up
3 Loop the yarn around the thumb again
and continue making loops in the same
way until the required number of stitches
shown and hold the yarn in place in the palm close to the slip knot. is on the needle.
of the left hand. Insert the needle tip under
and up through the loop on the thumb
following the arrow.

Yarn
coming Yarn tail
from ball

Yarn
coming Yarn
from ball tail
 92 KEY TECHNIQUES

KNIT-ON CAST-ON (also called Knit-stitch cast-on)

1 Holding the yarn in your left or right hand as

2 With the yarn behind the needles,
TECHNIQUES

explained on p.89, place the needle with the slip wrap it under and around the tip of
knot in your left hand. Then insert the tip of the the right needle. (While casting on, use
right needle from left to right through the center your left index finger or middle finger to
of the loop on the left needle. hold the loops on the left needle in place.)
Yarn coming
from ball

Long yarn tail

3 With the tip of the right needle,

carefully draw the yarn through
the loop on the left needle. (This is
4 Insert the tip of the left needle, left to
right, into the loop on the right-hand
needle. Slip the loop onto the left needle.
the same way a knit stitch is formed, For a tighter edge, insert the tip of the left
hence the name of the cast-on.) needle from right to left, twisting the loop
as it slides across.

5 Pull both yarn ends to tighten the

new cast-on loop on the needle,
sliding it up close to the slip knot.
6 Continue casting on stitches in the same
way until you have the required number of
stitches. For a looser cast-on, hold two needles
together in your left hand while casting on.

Yarn tail Yarn coming

from ball
 SINGLE-STRAND CAST-ONS 93

CABLE CAST-ON

1 Begin by working Steps

1–5 of the Knit-on cast-on
(opposite). Then insert the tip
of the right needle between
the two loops on the left
Yarn
needle and wrap the yarn
coming
from ball under and around the tip
of the right needle.
2 With the tip of the right needle,
draw the yarn through to form
a loop on the right needle. When
casting on before single rib, work
this third and every following stitch
from the back, purlwise.
3 Transfer the loop on the
right needle to the left
needle (see Step 4, opposite).
Continue, inserting the needle
between the first two loops on
the left needle when beginning
each new cast-on stitch.

Long yarn tail

FINGER LOOP CAST-ON

1 This gives a soft cast-on. Hold the needle

with the slip knot in your right hand. Lift
the yarn from underneath with your left
2 Insert the needle from behind into the
loop that lies on top of your finger. 3 Release your index finger and tighten
the stitch on the needle.

index finger pointing away from you. Bend

and turn your finger to point toward you.
 94 KEY TECHNIQUES

ALTERNATING LOOP CAST-ON

1 Work the first stitch as for

2 Work the second stitch as Backward
3 Repeat Steps 1 and 2 to cast
TECHNIQUES

Finger loop cast-on, as loop cast-on (see p.91) by lifting the on as many stitches as you
shown on p.93. yarn from behind with the left thumb, need. On the first row, work into
winding it around the thumb, and inserting the front of the stitches, even if
the needle into the front strand. they look twisted.

DOUBLE TWIST LOOP CAST-ON

This cast-on gives quite a firm edge.

The additional twists make working the
first row easier than in other cast-ons.
2 Twist the yarn by twirling your finger
twice in a counterclockwise circle. 4 Repeat Steps 1–3 to cast
on as many stitches as you
need. The resulting decorative

1 Hold the needle with the slip knot in

your right hand. Lift the yarn from
3 Place the loop from your
finger on the needle and
pull to tighten.
edge has a soft, loose texture.

behind with your left index finger.

 TWO-STRAND CAST-ON 95

TWO-STRAND CAST-ON
These cast-on techniques all use two strands, but generally only one needle, and are
strong, elastic, and versatile. They are usually followed by a wrong side row, unless the
reverse is the right side. As with the Long-tail cast-on, start all of these with a slip knot
made after a long tail at least three times as long as the planned knitting width.

LONG-TAIL CAST-ON (also called Double cast-on)

1 Make a slip knot on the needle, leaving a very long yarn tail—allow
about 13⁄8in (3.5cm) for each stitch being cast on. Hold the needle in
your right hand. Loop the yarn tail over the left thumb and the ball yarn
2 Insert the tip of the needle
under and up through the
loop on the thumb.
end over the left forefinger as shown. Hold both strands in the palm of
the left hand.
Yarn coming from ball
Long
yarn tail

3 Wrap the tip of the needle around the inner loop on the
forefinger from right to left and use it to pull the yarn
through the loop on the thumb as shown by the arrow.
4 Release the loop from
the thumb.

5 Pull both yarn ends to tighten the new

cast-on loop on the needle, sliding it up
close to the slip knot.
6 Loop the yarn around the thumb again and
cast on another stitch in the same way. Make
as many stitches as you need.

Yarn Yarn
coming tail
from ball
 96 KEY TECHNIQUES

CONTRAST EDGE CAST-ON

1 Cut a piece of contrast yarn three

2 Hold both strands of yarn
4 Loop the contrast yarn over
TECHNIQUES

times the length of the cast-on, in your left hand, with the your thumb by moving it in
and tie one end onto the end of the contrast yarn toward you and a counterclockwise circle, and
ball of main colored yarn. the knot at the end. loop the main color over your

3
index finger as shown.

5
Slide the needle in between
Insert the needle from
the yarns so that the knot
below under the front
sits snugly on the right side
Main strand of the contrast
of the needle. Hold it in
yarn yarn on the thumb.
place with your right
index finger.
Contrast
yarn

6 Move the needle toward your

index finger and take the tip up
and over the front index finger loop,
7 Release the contrast
yarn thumb loop. Pull both
yarn ends to hold the needle
pulling this back toward you, then snugly, and slide the cast-on
pull this main color loop through stitch close to the slip knot.
the contrast-colored thumb loop. Repeat Steps 4–7.

8 Cast on the required stitches.

Knit the next row in the main
yarn and continue working in
garter stitch.
 TWO-STRAND CAST-ON 97

TWISTED LONG-TAIL CAST-ON

This cast-on is stretchy, so it is useful

before a rib. Make it even stretchier by
working it over two needles held together.
2 Bring the needle toward you over the
top of the farthest thumb loop and
down between both thumb strands.
3 Take the needle over the first
loop on your index finger.

The thumb loop is now a figure-eight.

1 Hold the yarn and needle as for

Long-tail cast-on (see p. 95). Bring
the needle toward you and then back
under both thumb loops.

4 Bring the needle toward you. Drop the end of

your thumb away from you and let the loop slide
down toward the end to open the thumb loop. Bring
5 Release the thumb loop, keeping the yarn
around your index finger ready to start
the next cast-on loop. Pull the short strand to
the needle down through the open thumb loop. tighten the stitch.

6 Loop the yarn around your

thumb again and repeat Steps 1–4
to cast on another stitch in the same
way. The stitches create a stretchy
double-twist effect.
 98 KEY TECHNIQUES

ITALIAN CAST-ON

1 Hold the needle with the slip knot and ball

3 Holding this position, wrap the ball yarn
TECHNIQUES

yarn end in the right hand, tail in the left. around the needle from left to right.

2 Bring the left index finger and

thumb forward under the short
yarn tail. Take the needle over
Yarn
coming
and back under this strand, from ball
making a loop on the
index finger.

Yarn tail

4 Slip the index finger loop over the tip of the

needle. Pull the short yarn tail to tighten. 5 Loop the yarn over the index finger and
thumb again and continue making loops
in the same way until the required number
Slip loop over of stitches is on the needle.
needle tip

TWO-NEEDLE CAST-ON

1 Hold the needle with the slip knot in the left

hand, with the short yarn tail at the back. 3 Using an empty needle in the
right hand, pass the first loop
over the second and remove the
Yarn coming right needle. Yarn
Yarn tail from ball coming
from ball Yarn
tail

2 Bring the yarn tail over the needle from

back to front. Pass the ball yarn end in front
of the short yarn tail, and then bring it over the
4 Pull the yarn tail to tighten
the cast-on loop. Repeat
Steps 2–3 to cast on the
needle from back to front. required number of stitches.
 TWO-STRAND CAST-ON 99

COMBINED TWO-STRAND CAST-ON

Also known as Estonian cast-on, this

method gives a very stretchy edge and is
ideal for ribbed cuffs.
2 With the needle pointing away, take
it over the first thumb loop and then
under the loop on the inside of the thumb.
3 Draw the loop
through the
thumb loop.
4 Drop the thumb
loop. Pull the yarn
tail to tighten the new
Take the needle over the nearest loop on loop. Repeat to cast on

1 Make the first stitch as for Long-tail

cast-on (see p.95). The second stitch is
similar, except you turn your thumb in the
the index finger. the required stitches.

opposite direction to catch the yarn. The end

of the strand is now to the inside of your
thumb, not the left.

TWO-STRAND LONG-TAIL CAST-ON

1 In preparation, measure the long tail length

required for your cast-on. Fold the yarn so you have
two strands of this length, and tie your slip knot at the
free end of the yarn, catching both yarns.
2 Work as usual for Long-tail cast-on (see p.95), or
any other two-stranded cast-on, using the single
ball end yarn to make the stitches and the doubled
yarn for the foundation loop.

Doubled
yarn tail

Yarn coming
from ball
Doubled
yarn tail
Yarn coming
from ball
 100 KEY TECHNIQUES

SPECIAL CAST-ONS
The following cast-ons are useful for specific purposes and may be specified in your pattern.
TECHNIQUES

However, many patterns simply say “cast on,” in which case you should select one of these
methods to add functionality or individuality to your project.

CHANNEL ISLANDS CAST-ON FOR SINGLE RIB

1 Fold the yarn tail, so that you have a

doubled yarn four times the length of
your cast-on edge, plus 4in (10cm).
3 Bring the left thumb under the
doubled strand from the front, in a
clockwise circle, winding the doubled yarn
5 Release the loop from the thumb and pull
the double strand first to tighten the loop
on the needle.
twice around the thumb. Insert the needle

2 Make a slip knot on the doubled

strand, about 4in (10cm) down from
up through both loops.

4
the free end. Transfer to a needle. Hold
Pass the single strand
the doubled strand in the left hand, the
around the needle and
single strand and needle in the right.
slip thumb loops over to
make a stitch
as normal.

6 To make the next stitch,

take the single yarn over
the needle to the back.
7 Repeat Steps 2–4 to the required cast-on
length, finishing with a thumb wrapped
stitch, making an even number of stitches.
8 To work the first row, knit the first
stitch (the thumb loop) and purl the
next. Finally, purl into the initial double-
strand slip knot.
 SPECIAL CAST-ONS 101

PROVISIONAL CAST-ON

1 Take a piece of
contrast yarn more
than twice the required
2 Make a slip
knot in the
main yarn. Transfer
3 Hold as for Long-
tail cast-on
(see p.95), with the
4 Flick your right wrist and take
the needle down between the
yarns and up under the main yarn.
5 Turn the needle toward you and
bring it over, and then back away
from you under the contrast yarn.
length of your cast-on. A to the same needle. contrast yarn around
smooth, strong contrast your thumb.
yarn will be easier to
remove later. Tie a slip
knot at one end and
transfer to a needle.

6 Catch the main yarn from above and behind, and bring
it under the contrast yarn and around the needle. Let
the contrast yarn slip to the back of the needle. Repeat
7 Drop the contrast slip knot at the end of the cast-on.
Tie the contrast ends together until you want to pull
the contrast yarn out and pick up the “live” open stitches.
steps 4–6 to cast on the required stitches. Knit into the front of the first row.
 102 KEY TECHNIQUES
CROCHET PROVISIONAL CAST-ON
1 Make a slip knot on a crochet hook
TECHNIQUES
with contrast yarn. Hold the yarn and
the needle in your left hand and the hook
in your right. Take the yarn behind the
needle and over your left index finger.
Hold the needle and the hook crossed,
with the hook in front. Lay the yarn in the
hook with your left index finger.
TUBULAR CAST-ON (also called Invisible cast-on)
This is good for single rib, but can
become wavy if overstretched. Use
needles at least two sizes smaller
than those used for the main fabric.
1 Hold the yarn and needles as for
Long-tail cast-on (see p.95), but
with your palm facing down, creating
a “V” of yarn pointing to the right.
2 Bring the needle
forward, passing 3 Catch the
index-finger
over and back under strand, going
the thumb strand. over and back
toward you.
2 Pull the yarn through the slip knot. The
yarn will loop over the needle, making a
stitch. Take the yarn behind the needle and
make another loop. Continue to cast on the
required stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it
through the last chain on the hook. Mark this
end so it is clear which end will unravel.
4 Turn your thumb away from you in a
circular movement, flicking the thumb
strand over the needle. Bring the left hand
back to its original position, passing the yarn
under the needle.
5 Make sure that the stitch goes all the
way around the needle, and lies
centrally under the needle.
6 Take the needle back over and under
the index-finger strand. With the needle
toward you, take it over and back under the
thumb strand.
3 Work your knitting. When
you are ready to work on the
cast-on edge, pull the marked
yarn back out of the last chain,
after which the whole chain can
be unraveled and the “live” open
stitches picked up.
7 Move your index finger
toward you in a circular
movement, passing the yarn
over the needle, and return
your hand to its original
position, making sure the
stitch goes all the way
around the needle. Repeat
Steps 2–7 to cast on an even
number of stitches.
The stitches must lie
under the needle
8 At the end, wrap the two strands
together under the needle. Knit the
first row by knitting into the back of the
first stitch, bring the yarn to the front, and
slip the next stitch purlwise. Repeat along
the row. Work two or four rows of tubular
knitting before starting the main fabric. Do
not knit into the back of the stitches.

ALTERNATIVE ROLL-EDGE TUBULAR CAST-ON
1 Using a smooth yarn, work a Crochet
provisional cast-on (see opposite) of half
the required stitches plus one. In the main
color and on small-sized needles, knit three
rows of stockinette stitch, starting with a knit
row and ending with the wrong side facing.
2 Purl one stitch and take the yarn to the
back. Insert the right needle tip from top
to bottom through the purl bar of the main
color bar at the color join three rows down.
KNOTTED CAST-ON
This cast-on makes a strong, decorative
edge. It can be tight, so work loosely on
thick needles.
1 Make a slip knot on the needle and cast on
one stitch as Long-tail cast-on (see p.95).
2 Hold the second needle in your
left hand, insert it into the slip
knot, then pass this over the last
stitch made and off the right needle.
SPECIAL CAST-ONS 103
3 Insert the left
needle from the
front to the back into
4 Change to main needles. This cast-on
makes an odd number of stitches. A single
rib will have a knit stitch at each end and
the picked-up stitch. must be worked with rows starting as follows:
Knit into the front of knit one, purl one; the next row is purl one,
the stitch. Bring the knit one; and so on. Decrease one at the end
yarn to the front. of the ribbing or when convenient. Remove
Repeat Steps 2 and
3 until the row is
complete. Finish
Crochet provisional cast-on.
with a purl stitch,
and no pick up.
TWICE-KNITTED CAST-ON
3 Repeat, casting on two stitches and
passing the first over the second to
the required length of the cast-on.
Excellent for fringed edges and before
twice-knitted work. Always knit the first
stitch of the first row.
Backward loop cast-on may be substituted
for Long-tail cast-on, if preferred. The
first stitch of the first row should always
be knitted.
1 Working loosely, make a slip knot and
cast on one stitch, using the Knit-on
method (see p.92).
2 Insert the right needle into both loops
and knit together, but do not slip off the
stitches. Slip the new loop from the right
needle to the left. Knit the new stitch together
with the preceding stitch. Repeat Step 2 to
cast on the required stitches.
 104 KEY TECHNIQUES
FRILLY CAST-ON
1 Cast on an even number
TECHNIQUES
of stitches that is twice
as many as required using
the Long-tail cast-on method
(see p.95). Other decorative
cast-ons may be preferred.
EDGING CAST-ON
1 Knit a piece of a narrow
edging to the required length
of your cast-on. If you are unsure
of the correct length, slip stitches
onto a holder at end (see p.107)
and alter as necessary.
New yarn tail
2 Insert the right needle
into the first two
stitches from front to back
and knit them together.
Repeat across the row.
2 Work along the right edge,
right-side facing. Hold the
new yarn at the back. Insert
the needle tip from front to
back through the first edge
stitch, wrap the yarn around
the needle, and pull a loop
through to the front.
3 Work the next row
as normal.
3 Continue along the full
length of the edge, picking
up the new yarn evenly to
form stitches on the needle.
If necessary, skip some rows
to prevent the cast-on
from distorting.
4 This creates a pretty,
decorative edge. You may
need extra yarn, since the
cast-on uses twice as many
stitches.
4 Knit the main fabric
upward from the edge
trim as required. Start with
a purl row if the main fabric
is stockinette stitch.
 SPECIAL CAST-ONS 105

PINHOLE CAST-ON

This technique is ideal for starting

circular medallions. 2 Keep your index finger in the knot.
Hook the yarn again and draw the
new loop through the loop on the
3 Put the hook back into the knot loop on
your finger and pull another loop through.
Draw another loop through this one. There are

1 Wrap the yarn around your left index

finger. Insert a crochet hook, and draw
a loop through as if making a slip knot.
hook. One stitch made. now two stitches on the hook.

4 Repeat Step 3, adding a loop to the hook each time

until you have enough loops for a quarter of the required
stitches. Remove your finger after the first few stitches.
5 When the project
is complete, pull the
yarn tail at the center and
Transfer these stitches to the first knitting needle, and the hole will close neatly.
repeat to cast on a circle to four needles.

First four
stitches
on first
needle

Pull yarn tail to

Yarn tail close hole
 106 KEY TECHNIQUES

SIMPLE CASTING OFF

When your piece of knitted fabric is complete you need to close off the loops so that they
TECHNIQUES

can’t unravel. This is called casting off (or binding off) the stitches. Always take the yarn to
the back before casting off both knit and purl stitches. If instructed to retain stitches for
future use, slip your stitches onto a spare needle or a stitch holder.

CASTING OFF KNITWISE

1 Begin by knitting the

first two stitches. Insert
the tip of the left needle
2 To cast off the next stitch,
knit one more stitch and
repeat Step 1. Continue until
from left to right through only one stitch remains on the
the first stitch, then lift it up right needle. (If your pattern
and over the second stitch says “cast off in pattern,” work
and off the right needle. the stitches in the specified
pattern as you cast off.)
3 To stop the last stitch from unraveling,
cut the yarn, leaving a yarn tail 8in (20cm)
long, which is long enough to darn into the
knitting later. (Alternatively, leave a much
longer yarn end to use for a future seam.)
Pass the yarn end through the remaining loop
and pull tight to close the loop. This
is called fastening off.

PURL CAST-OFF

1 Purl two stitches, then take the yarn to

the back. Insert the tip of the left needle
into the first stitch, then pass it over the
2 Bring the yarn to the front. Repeat Steps
1 and 2 across the row, but purl only one
stitch in Step 1. Pull the end stitch through
second stitch and off the right needle. itself as for Casting off knitwise (above).
 ALTERNATIVE CASTING OFF 107

ALTERNATIVE CASTING OFF

Try using one of these casting-off techniques to complement your project. Consider
using a contrasting color, either in a basic cast-off or combined with a decorative style.
Cast-offs are included that give more stretch to ribs or loosen an edge, and an adaptation
of the Three-needle cast-off (see p.108) may even be used to join pockets and hems.

SLIPPING STITCHES OFF THE NEEDLE

Stitch holder

Using a stitch holder: If you are setting stitches aside to work on
later, your instructions will tell you whether to cut the yarn or keep
it attached to the ball. Carefully slip your stitches onto a stitch
holder large enough to hold all of the stitches. If you are only
slipping a few stitches, use a safety pin.
Using a piece of yarn: If you don’t have a stitch holder or don’t
have one large enough, you can use a piece of cotton yarn
instead. Using a blunt-ended yarn needle, pass the yarn through
the stitches as you slip them off the knitting needle. Knot the
ends of the cotton yarn together.

CASTING OFF IN RIB EFFECT

Use after a
single rib fabric
to maintain the
1 Work one knit
and one purl.
Take the yarn to
2 Knit the next stitch,
then pass the first
stitch over the second
3 Bring the yarn to the front and purl the
next stitch, then take the yarn to the back
and pass the last stitch over the second.
rib corrugations. the back. Insert the and off the right needle Repeat Steps 2 and 3 across the row. Pull
This method left needle into the as before. the final stitch through itself to fasten off.
adds a little first stitch. Pass
more stretch over the second
than casting off stitch and off the
in either all knit right needle.
or all purl.
 108 KEY TECHNIQUES

SUSPENDED CAST-OFF (also called Delayed cast-off) CROCHET CAST-OFF

This is ideal after lace knitting.

2 Bring the right needle
1 Hold the yarn
TECHNIQUES

across the front of the in your left

1
“suspended” stitch, and knit the hand and keep it
Knit the first two stitches
first stitch on the left needle. at the back. Slip
(this starts the row and is
the first stitch

3
not repeated). Insert the left
Slip both loops off together purlwise onto the
needle tip into the first stitch
as you complete the knit crochet hook.
and pass it over the second
stitch. Continue passing and
and off the right tip. Do not
knitting stitches as in Steps 1
drop it from the left tip.
and 2 to the end of the cast off.

2 Insert the hook

into the next stitch
and drop it from the
left needle. Catch yarn
with hook and pull
through both stitches.
Repeat across the row,
pulling the end loop
through itself to
fasten off.

THREE NEEDLE CAST-OFF

This technique can be worked with the

right side facing as a normal seam, or
with the wrong side facing (as here) to
2 Continue to knit together one
stitch from each needle as you
cast off the stitches in the usual way.
3 When the pieces
of knitting are
opened out, you
form a decorative seam. (A contrasting yarn is used here to will see that this
show the seam clearly.) technique forms a

1 Hold the needles with the stitches to

be joined together with the wrong sides
facing each other. Insert a third needle
raised chain along
the seam.

through the center of the first stitch on each

needle and knit these two stitches together.
 ALTERNATIVE CAST-OFFS 109

PICOT POINT CAST-OFF

Where there is a seam, cast off the first

stitch to leave a selvage before starting the
picot edge.
3 Cast off three stitches knitwise
as described in Step 1. Cast off
another two stitches. (These form
the straight edge between the

1 Knit two stitches, insert the left needle into the

first stitch on the right needle and pass it over
the second stitch and off the right needle (Casting
picots points).

off knitwise, see p.106).

2 Slip the
remaining
right stitch onto
the left needle
without twisting
it. Cast on two
stitches by the
Cable cast-on
method (see p.93).

4 Repeat Steps 2–3

across the row. 5 A lamb’s tail edge can be made by
casting on more stitches in Step 2 (the
longer example shown has twenty stitches
cast on). However many you choose, always
cast off one more stitch in Step 3 than you
cast on. To make the tails twist, as shown
center, cast off tighter than you cast on.

6 To use contrasting color for the picots,

work the last row of the main fabric in
contrast (purl row in stockinette stitch). To
prevent the edge from rolling to the knit
side, work the last two rows of the main
fabric in garter stitch or moss stitch. For a
clean color join, introduce contrast yarn on
the knit row before you start the garter or
moss stitch. A picot cast-on can also be
worked using this method of casting on
and casting off the extra stitches between
making each group of Contrast edge
cast-on stitches (see p.96).
 110 KEY TECHNIQUES

TWO-ROW CAST-OFF

1 Work on an even number of stitches. Knit

3 Repeat Step 2 across the row. This leaves
4 Slip the last stitch on the right
TECHNIQUES

the first stitch and purl the second. With you with half the number of original needle onto the left needle without
the yarn at the back, insert the left needle in stitches on the needle. Cut the yarn, leaving twisting it, slip the next stitch in the
the first stitch and pass it over the second a tail. Do not turn the work. same way. Pass the second stitch along
stitch and off the right needle. on the left needle over the last stitch.

2 Knit and purl the next two stitches on the

left needle. Take yarn to back. Pass the
second (knit) stitch over the third (purl) stitch
on the right needle to cast off one stitch.

DECREASE CAST-OFF
5 Repeat across the row, slipping only one stitch each
time. Sew in the last stitch with a blunt-ended yarn
needle and a separate piece of yarn.
A decorative cast-off, this is stretchier than casting
off knitwise, which makes it useful for single ribs.

Insert the tip of the right needle into the front of the
first two stitches on the left needle and knit them
together. Slip the new stitch on the right needle back
onto the left without twisting it. Repeat across the
row, pulling the thread through the last stitch to
secure the end.

TUBULAR CAST-OFF
This cast-off is almost invisible
and is a perfect match to the
Tubular cast-on (see p.102). After
completing each sewing action,
pull the yarn through to draw the
stitches lightly together.
3 Skip the new first stitch,
and insert the sewing
needle purlwise into the new
second stitch (knit stitch). Pull
the yarn through.
The needle goes
from right to left
6 Insert the sewing needle knitwise
through the second stitch (a purl
stitch), taking it through to the back
of the work. Pull the yarn through.
Repeat Steps 2–6 along the row.
Sew in the ends.
1 In preparation, in single-rib fabric work two rows as
follows; knit one, bring the yarn forward, slip the next
(purl stitch) purlwise, take the yarn back. Repeat across the
row. Cut the yarn, leaving four times the length to be cast
off and thread onto a blunt-ended tapestry needle. Hold the
knitting needle with yarn tail on the right.
4 Move the sewing
needle to the right
and insert it purlwise
into the first stitch (a
purl stitch). Pull the
yarn through and drop
this stitch off the
knitting needle.
7 The completed cast off.
ALTERNATIVE CAST-OFFS 111
2 Insert the sewing needle into the first
stitch (a knit stitch) knitwise, pull the
yarn through, and drop the stitch from
the knitting needle.
The needle goes
from left to right
5 Take the sewing needle to
the back and insert it from
back to front between the new
first and second stitches on
the knitting needle. Pull the
yarn through.
The needle comes through
from back to front
 112 KEY TECHNIQUES

VERY STRETCHY SINGLE-RIB CAST-OFF

1 On a single rib
2 Insert the left
3 Bring the yarn to the front. Take it away
5 Wrap the yarn around the
TECHNIQUES

fabric, make a needle in the first from you over the top of the needle and needle and knit the next
yarn over; then work stitch on the right back to the front. Purl the next stitch. There stitch. Slip the first and second
the knit stitch at the needle. Lift it over the will be three stitches on the right needle. stitches on the right needle
start of the row. second stitch and off. over the third and off. Repeat

4 Take yarn to back.

Slip the first and
second stitches on
Steps 3–5 along the row.

the right needle over

the third and off.

EDGING CAST-OFF

For a smooth join into a

contrast edge on stockinette
stitch, knit the last row of
the main fabric in the contrast
color. A third needle is needed
for this technique.
2 Take the needle with the
stitches to be cast off in
your left hand. Slip the last
stitch of the edging purlwise
from the right-hand needle
onto the left-hand needle.
4 Turn the work. With the
yarn in front, slip the first
edging stitch from the left to
5 Turn the needles and work a RS
row, stopping before the last
stitch of your edging. Repeat Steps
the right needle without 3–5 along the open stitches.
twisting. Work a wrong-side
(WS) row along the remaining
edging stitches according to

1 Using the spare needle, cast

on three stitches in contrast
yarn. Work two rows of
the pattern.

edging pattern, ending

on a right-side row and
stopping before the
last stitch. 3 Knit the edging
stitch and main
color stitch together
through the back of
both loops.
 ALTERNATIVE CAST-OFFS 113

CROCHET CHAIN LOOP CAST-OFF

This decorative cast-off

helps prevent edges from
stretching, particularly on
3 Insert the hook
into the first
four stitches on the
4 Lay yarn into the hook and make another
chain through both loops on the hook.
Repeat Steps 2–4 across the edge, catching
lacy knitting. needle. Slip them four stitches each time at Step 3.
onto the hook. Lay

1 The stitches should be

divisible by four. Hold the
stitches (right side facing you)
yarn into the hook
and pull a loop
through all four
in your left hand. Slip the first stitches.
stitch onto a crochet hook.

2 Lay the yarn into the

hook and pull it through
to make a new chain; repeat
until you have enough
stitches to make a loop
along the cast-off edge
when it is stretched.

SMOOTH DIAGONAL CAST-OFF

This example assumes you are

working a pattern with a diagonal
edge to cast off in groups of five
3 Purl these two stitches together. Turn the
work. Repeat Steps 2–4 until the cast-off
length is completed.
(such as a shoulder seam). The last two
stitches

1 Cast off four stitches using the Casting-off

knitwise method (see p.106), leaving the
last stitch of the cast-off on the right needle.
2 Knit to the end of the row on the left
needle, turn the work, and purl until
there are only two stitches remaining on
the left needle.
 114 KEY TECHNIQUES

BASIC KNIT AND PURL FABRICS

Simple knitting is made up of two basic stitches—knit and purl. Once you can work these
TECHNIQUES

with ease, you will be able to work common stitch patterns—garter stitch, stockinette stitch,
and single ribbing. The varied properties of these fabrics are why stockinette stitch (and its
reverse) are often used for garments and garter stitch and single ribs for edgings.

GARTER STITCH (Abbreviation = g st)

Knit right-side (RS) rows: Garter stitch is Knit wrong-side (WS) rows: When the
the easiest of all knitted fabrics, since all wrong side of the fabric is facing you,
rows are worked in knit stitches. When the knit all the stitches in the row. The
right side of the fabric is facing you, knit all resulting fabric is soft, textured, and Wrong side
the stitches in the row. slightly stretchy. looks exactly
like right side

Forms horizontal ridges Edges of fabric lie

flat and do not roll

STOCKINETTE STITCH (Abbreviation = st st)

Knit right-side (RS) rows: Stockinette Purl wrong-side (WS) rows:

stitch is formed by working alternate When the wrong side is
rows of knit and purl stitches. When facing you, purl all the
the right side is facing you, knit all the stitches in the row. The wrong
stitches in the row. side is often referred to as the
“purl side” of the knitting.
Wrong side
Right side is knobby
is smooth
Side edges roll
slightly to back

Bottom edge naturally

rolls up at front
 BASIC KNIT AND PURL FABRICS 115

REVERSE STOCKINETTE STITCH (Abbreviation = rev st st)

Purl right-side (RS) rows: Knit wrong-side (WS) rows: When

Reverse stockinette stitch is the wrong side is facing you, knit
formed exactly like stockinette all the stitches in the row.
stitch but the sides are
reversed. When the right
side is facing you, purl all
the stitches in the row.
Right side Wrong side
of fabric of fabric is
is knobbly smooth

Side edges roll Bottom edge rolls

slightly to front naturally up to back

SINGLE RIBBING (Abbreviation = k1, p1 rib)

Right-side (RS) rows: Single ribbing is formed by Wrong-side (WS) rows: On the
working alternate knit and purl stitches. After a wrong-side rows, knit all the knit
knit stitch, take the yarn to the front of the knitting stitches that are facing you and
between the two needles to purl the next stitch. purl all the purl stitches. Work the
After a purl stitch, take the yarn to the back following rows in the same way to
between the two needles to knit the next stitch. form thin columns of alternating
single knit and purl stitches.

Ribbing has Wrong side looks

vertical ridges exactly like right side
and is stretchy

Edges lie flat

and do not roll
 116 KEY TECHNIQUES

THE FIRST BASIC STITCH—KNIT STITCH Abbreviation = k

Choose Single, Knit-on, or Finger cast-on (see pp.91–93) and start with garter stitch,
TECHNIQUES

which uses only knit stitch. Experiment with stripes and different yarns before you
learn purl stitch (opposite). The odd dropped stitch doesn’t matter, just put a safety
pin through it so it doesn’t drop further and sew it in later.

1 Hold the needle with the unworked stitches in your

left hand and the other needle in your right hand as
explained on p.89. With the yarn at the back of the knitting,
2 Wrap the yarn under and
around the tip of the right
needle, keeping an even tension
insert the tip of the right needle from left to right under the as the yarn slips through
front loop and through the center of the next stitch to be your fingers.
worked on the left needle.

Yarn at back
of knitting

3 With the tip of the right needle,

carefully draw the yarn through the
stitch on the left needle. Hold the yarn
4 Let the old loop drop off the left
needle to complete the knit stitch
on the right needle. Work all the
firmly but not too tightly. stitches on the left needle onto the
right needle in the same way. To start
a new row, turn the work and transfer
the right needle to the left hand. Completed
new stitch

Old stitch
 THE SECOND BASIC STITCH—PURL STITCH 117

THE SECOND BASIC STITCH—PURL STITCH Abbreviation = p

The purl stitch is a little more difficult than knit stitch, but like knit stitch it becomes
effortless after a little practice. Once you are a seasoned knitter, you will feel as if your hands
would know how to work these basic stitches in your sleep. Work your first purl row after you
have cast on and knitted a few rows of garter stitch. You may find your tension alters on purl
stitches, so try holding your yarn a little tighter or looser to compensate.

1 Hold the needle with the unworked stitches

in your left hand and the other needle in your
right hand as explained on p.89. With the yarn at
2 Wrap the yarn over and around the
tip of the right needle. Keep an even
tension on the yarn as you release it
the front of the knitting, insert the tip of the right
Yarn at front through your fingers.
of knitting
needle from right to left through the center of
the next stitch to be worked on the left needle.

3 With the tip of the right needle,

carefully draw the yarn through
the stitch on the left needle. Keep
4 Let the old loop drop off the left
needle to complete the purl stitch.
Work all the stitches on the left needle
your hands relaxed and allow the onto the right needle in the same way.
yarn to slip through your fingers in To start the next row, turn the work and
a gently controlled manner. transfer the knitting to the left hand.

Completed new
stitch
Old stitch
 118

PREPARING AND REPAIRING

TECHNIQUES

These useful tips will help both absolute beginners and more advanced knitters
to prepare and complete their work with ease. Even experienced knitters can have

problems joining on a new ball of yarn, and sewing in yarn ends correctly is the final

touch for a professional finish.

WINDING AND JOINING YARNS

Knowing how to wind a hank into a ball is a useful skill, especially since many luxury yarns
are sold as hanks. Joining a new ball of yarn when the first has run out, or a color change is
necessary, is a little daunting at first but easy to master.

WINDING A HANK INTO A BALL

1 Untwist the hank and carefully undo the knot joining the
two ends of the yarn. Ask someone to hold the hank, or
place it over a chair back. Pull out one of the yarn ends and
2 Start wrapping the yarn around the
butterfly and the thumb to create
a hole in the center of the ball. Keep
wind it into a little yarn “butterfly” (see p.120). Then pinch the winding until the whole hank is used up.
butterfly together at the center and slip it off the left hand. Be sure to change the positioning of the
wraps frequently to keep the ball round.
Secure the yarn end under a few of the
outer wraps. When you start knitting, pull
the butterfly out of the center and use this
end. Pulling the yarn from inside stops the
ball from rolling around.

To start using
finished ball,
Yarn tail pull butterfly
from center

WEAVER’S KNOT

Use when joining yarns of different

thicknesses. 2 Take the thin yarn end
that is wrapped around 3 Holding both thick yarns in one
hand and both thin in the other,

1
the loop under the front gently pull the short ends apart with
Make a loop of the thick yarn and pinch
thread of the thick yarn loop. your fingers to close the knot.
the neck together. Thread a longish
Pass it over itself as you take
end of the thin yarn through the loop from
it toward the back and then
above, and wrap it over the neck of the
pass it under the rear thread
loop from back to front; pinch this
of the thick yarn loop.
to the loop with your fingers.
 JOINING ON A NEW YARN 119

SQUARE KNOT

This is made like a Granny knot, but

take left over right, then right over left.
This is best made at the point where it
is needed in the knitting so you can
make sure it goes to the back.

JOINING ON A NEW YARN

To calculate if there is enough yarn to complete two rows, fold the remaining yarn in half
and make a slip knot at the fold. Knit the first row. If the knot comes before the end of
the row you don’t have enough yarn and need to join on a fresh ball.

JOINING ON A NEW BALL

1 Always join on a new ball at the beginning of a

row. Knot the new end of yarn onto the old yarn. 2 Slide the knot up very close to the knitting. The knot can be
hidden in the seam later. If you are knitting a scarf or blanket,
tie the knot loosely so you can undo it later and darn in the ends.

End of
old ball Knot close
to knitting

New ball
joined on
New ball

MAGIC KNOT

This secure and discreet knot can be used

mid-row in multicolor patterns. It should lie
on the back of the fabric, so make sure it is
2 With the end of the new yarn, tie a knot tightly around the old yarn.
With the end of the old yarn, tie a knot tightly around the new yarn.

worked between two stitches.

1 Lay the yarns parallel, ends facing

and overlapping by about 4in (10cm).
3 Pull the yarns apart so that the knots
slide together. Pull firmly to secure.
Trim the yarn tails as close as possible.

RUSSIAN JOIN

This secure join can be worked with

any yarn but is easiest with DK and
thicker yarn.
1 Close to the loop, work the needle along
inside the plies of the new yarn. Once
11⁄2–2in (4–5cm) of yarn has bunched up, push
2 Repeat Step 1 with the old yarn. Gently
pull the yarns to even out the bunched
plies and smooth the join; then trim the ends.
the needle out of the yarn and pull it through
so the yarn tail emerges, and a small loop is
left around the old yarn.
 120 PREPARING AND REPAIRING
NEEDLE JOIN
This join is smooth, strong, and
TECHNIQUES
almost invisible.
JOINING ON A NEW YARN—ALTERNATIVE METHOD
1 Lay the new yarn over the right
needle with the old yarn tail. Knit
the first stitch of the new row with both
yarns. Drop the old yarn tail and
continue with the new.
WINDING UP A LONG YARN TAIL
A long loose end on your slip knot can
start to get tangled when it is packed
away. To keep it neat, wind it into a yarn
“butterfly” close to your knitting.
1 Starting close to the knitting, wrap the
yarn around your thumb and forefinger
in a figure-eight pattern.
1 Work the needle along inside the plies of
the old yarn, working away from the end,
bunching plenty of yarn (at least 2in/5cm) onto
the needle. Push the needle out of the yarn and
pull the yarn through. Remove the needle.
Double
stitch with
both yarns
DARNING IN AN END
2 Remove the yarn “butterfly” from the
thumb and forefinger and wrap the yarn
end a few times around its center. Tuck the
end under the wrapping to secure it.
Yarn end tucked under
wrapping to secure
2 Thread the new yarn into the needle.
Insert the needle as close as possible to
where the yarns meet, and repeat Step 1.
Gently pull the tails apart, then even out the
bunched-up yarns with your fingers. Tails
can be trimmed once the knitting is done.
2 When the knitting is
complete, rip out the
second thread from the old
yarn before darning the
ends in with a blunt-ended
yarn needle.
Newly completed knitting will have
at least two yarn ends dangling from
it—one at the cast-on and one at the
cast-off edges. For every extra ball
used, there will be two more ends.
Thread each end onto a
blunt-ended needle and
weave it vertically or
horizontally through
stitches on the wrong
side of the work.
 CORRECTING MISTAKES 121

CORRECTING MISTAKES
The best thing to do if you make a mistake in your knitting is to unravel it back to the
mistake by ripping out the stitches one by one. If you drop a stitch, be sure to pick it up
quickly before it comes undone right back to the cast-on edge.

RIPPING OUT A KNIT ROW RIPPING OUT A PURL ROW

Hold the needle with the stitches in Hold the needle with the stitches in
your right hand. To rip out each your right hand. Rip out each purl stitch
stitch individually, insert the tip of individually with the tip of the left needle
the left needle from front to back in the same way as for the knit stitch.
through the stitch below the first
knit stitch on the right needle, then
drop the old knit stitch off the
needle and pull out the loop.

PICKING UP A DROPPED STITCH

If you drop a stitch on stockinette stitch, you can easily

reclaim it with a crochet hook. With the right side of the
knitting facing you, insert the hook through the dropped
loop. Grab the strand between the stitches and pull a
loop through the loop on the hook. Continue up the
rows in this way until you reach the top. Then slip the
stitch back onto your needle.
 122
FOLLOWING STITCH PATTERNS
TECHNIQUES
Stitch pattern instructions are written or charted directions for making all kinds
of textures—knit and purl combinations, lace, and cables. Knitting stitch pattern swatches
is the best possible introduction to row instructions. Beginners should try some out before
attempting to follow a proper knitting pattern (see pp.126–127).
UNDERSTANDING WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
Anyone who can cast on, knit and purl, and cast off will be able
to work from simple knit-and-purl-combination stitch pattern
instructions with little difficulty. It is just a question of following the
instructions one step at a time and getting used to the abbreviations.
A list of common knitting abbreviations is given on p.125, but for
simple knit and purl textures all you need to understand is that “k1”
means “knit one stitch,” “k2” means “knit two stitches,” and so on. And
the same applies for the purl stitches—“p1” means “purl one stitch,”
“p2” means “purl two stitches,” and so on.
To begin a stitch pattern, cast on the number of stitches that it
tells you to, using your chosen yarn and the yarn manufacturer’s
recommended needle size. Work the stitch row by row, then repeat the
rows as instructed and the stitch pattern will grow beneath the needles.
When your knitting is the desired size, cast off in pattern (see p.106).
SLIPPING STITCHES PURLWISE
1 Always slip stitches purlwise, for
example, when slipping stitches
onto a stitch holder, unless instructed
otherwise. Insert the tip of the right
needle from right to left through the
front of the loop on the left needle.
The best tips for first-timers are to follow the rows slowly; mark
the right side of the fabric by knotting a colored thread onto it; use
a row counter to keep track of where you are (see p.43); and pull out
your stitches and start again if you get mixed up. If you love the stitch
pattern you are trying out, you can make a scarf, blanket, or pillow
cover with it—no need to buy a knitting pattern.
The principles for following stitch patterns are the same for
cables and lace (see pp.146–147 and 152–153), which you will be
able to work once you learn cable techniques and how to increase
and decrease.
Some stitch patterns will call for “slipping” stitches and knitting
“through the back of the loop.” These useful techniques are given next
as a handy reference when you are consulting the abbreviations and
terminology list.
2 Slide the stitch onto the right
needle and off the left needle
without working it. The slipped stitch
now sits on the right needle with the
right side of the loop at the front just
like the worked stitches next to it.

SLIPPING STITCHES KNITWISE
1 Slip stitches knitwise if instructed to do so
or if working decreases (see pp.135–137), as
it twists the stitch. First, insert the tip of the right
needle from left to right through the front of the
loop on the left needle.
KNITTING THROUGH BACK OF LOOP (Abbreviation = k1 tbl)
1 When row instructions say “k1 tbl” (knit one through
the back of the loop), insert the right needle from
right to left through the side of the stitch behind the left
needle (called the back of the loop).
FOLLOWING STITCH PATTERNS 123
2 Slide the stitch onto the right needle and
off the left needle without working it. The
slipped stitch now sits on the right needle with
the left side of the loop at the front of the needle,
unlike the worked stitches next to it.
2 Wrap the yarn around the tip of the right
needle and complete the knit stitch in the
usual way. This twists the stitch in the row
below so that the legs of the stitch cross at the
base. (The same principle applies for working
p1 tbl, k2tog tbl, and p2tog tbl.)
Crossed
stitch
 124 FOLLOWING STITCH PATTERNS
USING BEADS AS STITCH AND ROW MARKERS
1 Use lightweight beads of various colors and
TECHNIQUES
shapes. Measure a piece of slippery yarn twice the
eventual length of your knitting, and either tie onto
the long tail of the cast-on or leave loose.
3 Hold the beaded thread at the back
of your knitting. Choose a stitch
position to be marked vertically upward
throughout the rows.
2 Thread a bead onto the yarn for every two
rows to be worked. Too many beads are
better than too few, so add some spares.
Tie an odd bead or button on the end to
secure the beads.
4 Work one row to marker position. Bring the beaded
thread to the front between needles so it lies
between two stitches and down the front of the work.
Work remainder of row, making sure not to catch the
beaded thread in the next stitch.
5 Work two or more rows, stopping at marker
position on second row. Take the beaded thread
to the back, leaving one bead at the front. Continue
moving the beaded thread from back to front, placing
markers as required. If you thread too many beads,
leave any spares at the back. On completion, snip the
beaded thread and pull it through the knitting to
release the beads.
 FOLLOWING STITCH PATTERNS 125

UNDERSTANDING STITCH SYMBOL CHARTS

Knitting instructions for stitch patterns can also be given in chart 16 4 After completing
form. Some knitters prefer stitch-symbol charts because they build 15 row 16, start again
up a visual image of the stitch repeat that is quick to memorize. 14 at row 1
Even with charted instructions, there are usually written 13
directions for how many stitches to cast on. If not, you can 12
calculate the cast-on from the chart, where the number of stitches 11
3 Read row 2 Rep = 16 rows
in the pattern “repeat” are clearly marked. Cast on a multiple of and all other 10
this number, plus any edge stitches outside the repeat. wrong-side 9
Each square represents a stitch and each horizontal line of 2 Read row 1
rows from left 8 and all other
squares represents a row. After casting on, work from the bottom to right 7 right-side rows
of the chart upward. Read odd-numbered rows (usually right-side
6 from right to left
rows) from right to left and even-numbered rows (usually wrong-side
5
rows) from left to right. Work the edge stitches, and then the stitches
inside the repeat as many times as required. Some symbols mean
4 1 Cast on a
3 multiple of 6
one thing on a eight-side row and another on a wrong-side row.
Once you have worked all the charted rows, start again at the 2 stitches, plus 3
bottom of the chart to begin the “row repeat” once more. 1 (RS) extra stitches
at each end
3 edge sts Rep = 6 sts

KNITTING ABBREVIATIONS KNITTING TERMINOLOGY AND SYMBOLS

Below are the most common abbreviations. Special abbreviations in The following terms are commonly used in knitting patterns.
knitting instructions are always explained within the pattern. Where terminology differs between the US and UK, the UK
equivalent is given in parentheses.
alt alternate RL1 right lifted increase
beg begin(ning) RS right side (of work) cast on Create a series of loops purlwise Insert the right
cm centimeter(s) s1 k1 psso slip one, knit one, on a knitting needle to form needle into the stitch on the
cont continu(e)(ing) (skp) pass slipped st over the foundation for the knitting. left needle as if starting a
dec decreas(e)(ing) (see p.136) cast off Close off stitches and purl stitch.
foll follow(s)(ing) s1 k2tog (or sk2p) slip one st, drop from knitting needle (also: stockinette stitch Knit all RS
g gram(s) psso knit 2sts together, bind off). rows and purl all WS rows (UK:
g st garter stitch (or sk2p) pass slipped sts over cast off knitwise/purlwise stocking stitch).
in inch(es) (see p.137) Cast off while working stitches reverse stockinette stitch Purl
inc increas(e)(ing) ssk slip, slip, knit (see in knit/purl. all RS rows and knit all
cast off in pattern Cast WS rows (UK: reverse
k knit p.136)
off while working stitches in stocking stitch).
k1 tbl knit st through sl slip stitch(es)
the pattern of the previous row. work even Work in specified
back of loop s2 k1 slip 2, knit one, pass
cast off in ribbing Cast off pattern without increasing or
k2tog knit next 2 sts p2sso slipped stitches over while working stitches in the decreasing (UK: work straight).
(or dec 1) together (see p.135) (see p.137) ribbing of the previous row. yarn-over increase Wrap yarn
kfb knit into front and st(s) stitch(es) decrease Subtract the number around right needle to make a
(or inc 1) back of next st (see st st stockinette stitch of stitches in a row (see new stitch; abbreviated yo (UK:
p. 128) tbl through back of loop(s) pp.135–137). yfwd, yfrn, yon, or yrn; see
LL1 left lifted increase tog together garter stitch Knit one round pp.132–134).
m meter(s) WS wrong side (of work) and purl one round while
M1 make one stitch wyib with yarn in back knitting flat or knit every row in STITCH SYMBOLS
(or inc 1, M1k, M1p, M1L, M1R) wyif with yarn in front circular knitting (see p.114). These are some of the
(see pp.129-131) yb yarn back gauge The size of the stitches commonly used knitting
mm millimeter(s) yd yard(s) in a piece of knitting (UK: symbols in this book. Any
oz ounce(s) yo yarn over (UK also tension), measured by the unusual symbols will be
p purl yfwd, yfrn, yon, yrn; number of stitches and rows to explained in the pattern.
p2tog purl next 2sts see pp.132–133) 4in (10cm), or to 1in (2.5cm) on Symbols can vary, so follow the
(or dec 1) together (see p.135) []* Repeat instructions fine knitting (see p.127). explanations in your pattern.
increase Add to the number
patt pattern, or work in between brackets, or
of stitches in a row (see
pattern after or between
pp.128–134).
Pfb purl into front and asterisks, as many = k on RS rows, p on WS rows
knitwise Insert the right
(or inc 1) back of next st (see times as instructed needle into the stitch on the
p.128) = p on RS rows, k on WS rows
left needle as if starting a
psso pass slipped stitch knit stitch. = yarn over (see p.132)
over pick up and knit Draw loops = k2tog (see p.135)
rem remain(s)(ing) through the edge of the knitting = ssk (see p.136)
rep repeat(ing) and place them on the needle
rev st st reverse stockinette (see p.196). = sk2p (see p.137)
stitch = sk2 k1 p2sso (see p.137)
 126
FOLLOWING A PATTERN
TECHNIQUES
Knitting patterns can look daunting to a beginner knitter, but, if approached step-
by-step, they are easy to understand. This section provides an explanation of how to follow
simple knitting patterns and gives tips for finishing details and seams.
SIMPLE ACCESSORY PATTERNS
The best advice for a beginner wanting to knit a first project from a knitting pattern is to start
with a simple accessory. Pillow covers are especially good practice, since the instructions are
straightforward and usually the only finishing details are seams. This is an example of a
pattern for a simple striped stockinette stitch pillow cover.
At the beginning of most patterns you
will find the skill level required for the
knitting. Make sure you are confident
that the skill level is right for you.
Check the size of the finished item. If it
is a simple square like this pillow, you
can easily adjust the size by adding or
subtracting stitches and rows.
Try to use the yarn specified. But if you
are unable to obtain this yarn, choose a
substitute yarn as listed on p.32.
Make a gauge swatch before starting
to knit and change the needle size, if
necessary (see opposite).
Instructions for working a piece of
knitted fabric always start with how
many stitches to cast on and what yarn
or needle size to use. If there is only one
needle size and one yarn, these may be
absent here.
Consult the abbreviations list with your
pattern (or in your book) for the
meanings of abbreviations (see p.125).
The back of a pillow cover is
sometimes exactly the same as the front
or it has a fabric back. In this case, the
stripes are reversed on the back for a
more versatile cover.
After all the knitted pieces are
complete, follow the Finishing section
of the pattern.
STRIPED PILLOW COVER Always purchase the same total
amount in yards/meters of a substitute
Skill level yarn; NOT the same amount in weight.
Easy
Size of finished pillow
If desired, select different colors to suit
16 x 16in (40.5 x 40.5cm)
your decor; the colors specified are just
Materials suggestions.
3 x 50g/137yd/125m balls in each of branded
Pure Wool DK in Lavender 039 (A) and Avocado 019 Alter the needle size if you cannot
(B) Pair of US size 6 (4mm) knitting needles achieve the correct gauge with the
Pillow form to fit finished cover specified size (see left).
Gauge
Extra items needed for your project
22 sts and 30 rows to 4in (10cm) over stockinette
will usually be listed under Materials
stitch using US size 6 (4mm) needles or size necessary
or Extras.
to achieve correct gauge. To save time, take time to
check gauge.
Front
Work in the specified stitch pattern, for
Using US size 6 (4mm) needles and A, cast on 88 sts.
the specified number of rows or in/cm.
Beg with a K row, work in st st until work measures
51⁄2in (14cm) from cast-on edge, ending with RS facing
for next row.
Cut off A and change to B.
Colors are usually changed on a
Cont in st st until work measures 101⁄2in (26.5cm)
right-side row, so end with the right-side
from cast-on edge, ending with RS facing for next row.
facing for the changeover row.
Cut off B and change to A.
Cont in st st until work measures 16in (40.5cm) from
If no stitch is specified for the cast-off,
cast-on edge, ending with RS facing for next row.
always cast off knitwise.
Cast off.
Back See p.120 for how to darn in loose ends.
Work as for Front, but use B for A, and A for B.
Make sure you look at the yarn label
Finishing
instructions before attempting to iron
Darn in loose ends.
any piece of knitting. The label may say
Block and press lightly on wrong side,
that the yarn cannot be ironed or to iron
following instructions on yarn label.
it only with a cool iron. (See p.213 for
With wrong sides facing, sew three sides of back
blocking tips.)
and front together. Turn right-side out, insert
pillow form, and sew remaining seam.
See pp.213–217 for seaming options.
Take time with seams on knitting.
Practice on swatches of knitting
before starting the main project.
 MEASURING TENSION 127

GARMENT PATTERNS
Choosing the right size and knitting a gauge swatch are the two most important things
to get right if you want to create a successful garment. It is also very easy to make simple
alterations to patterns worked in plain garter or stockinette stitch.

CHOOSING A GARMENT SIZE

Rather than looking at specific “sizes” when

choosing which size to knit, select the one nearest
Check that
to how you want the garment to fit. The best way to Choose your circumference of
do this is to find a similar garment that fits you. Lay size by the width sleeve suits your
it flat and measure its width—choose the width on of a favorite, upper arm body
the pattern that is the closest match. well-fitting sweater measurement
Photocopy your pattern and highlight the figures with the same
for your size throughout. Start with the number of shape and knitted
balls of yarn, then the number of stitches to cast on, fabric weight
the length to knit to the armhole, and so on. The
smallest size is given first and larger sizes follow in Alter sweater Alter sleeve length
parentheses. Where only one figure is given, this length only only where specified
applies to all sizes. where instructed in instructions

ALTERING PATTERNS

You can alter the length of garment patterns worked in plain garter
or stockinette stitch, but avoid altering armholes, necklines, or sleeve
heads. Since sleeves and some bodies have shaping, this must also be
adjusted. Make notes at every step. In this example, length is being
added to a sleeve:
1 Copy, photocopy, or draw out the pattern diagram. Write the new
required length on the diagram (e.g., 20in).
2 Find the number of rows to 4in in the gauge note. Divide that number
by 4 to calculate how many rows there are in 1in. For example, 32 rows
per 4in. 32 ÷ 4 = 8 rows per 1in.
3 Multiply the required new length by the number of rows in 1in.
The resulting figure is the total number in the new length. For example,
20 × 8 = 160 rows.
4 Any increasing will also have to be recalculated. From the pattern,
note the number of stitches to cast on at the cuff and how many there
will be on the needle just before the start of the underarm shaping
(this figure should be shown at the end of the written instruction for
the increases).
5 Subtract the smallest from the largest amount of stitches. The
answer is the total number of stitches to be increased. Divide the
answer by two (because a sleeve has two sides), to give the number of
stitches to increase on each side. For example. 114 - 60 = 54 sts. 54 ÷ 2 =
27 sts.
6 To calculate the number of rows between each increase, divide the
new number of rows found in Step 3 by the number of increases
calculated in Step 5. If you have a fraction in this answer, round the
number down. For example, 144 ÷ 27 = 4.22. Increase one stitch each
side every 4 rows. Knit the remainder rows straight before underarm
cast-offs.

MEASURING GAUGE
Alway knit a gauge swatch from which to check your stitch size (gauge) after you block it
(see p.213). Make sure your gauge matches the one recommended in the pattern, otherwise
your finished piece will not have the correct measurements.

1 Using the specified needle

size, knit a swatch about 5in
(13cm) square. Mark 4in (10cm)
across the center of your
swatch with pins and count
the number of stitches
between the pins.
2 Count the number of rows to
4in (10cm) in the same way. If
you have fewer stitches and rows
than you should, try again with a
smaller needle size; if you have
more, change to a larger needle
size. Use the needle size for your
knitting that best matches the
correct gauge. (Matching stitch
width is more important than
matching row height.)
 128

INCREASES AND DECREASES

TECHNIQUES

Knitting is shaped by increasing and decreasing the number of stitches on the

needles. This changes the edges from straight vertical lines to curves and slopes. But increases

and decreases are also used in combinations with plain knit and purl stitches to form interesting

textures in the knitted fabric, from lace to sculptured relief.

SIMPLE INCREASES
The following techniques are simple increases used for shaping knitting. The first two (kfb
and pfb) make two stitches out of one. The others (L1 and M1) make a completely new stitch
next to an existing stitch. Multiple increases, which add more than one stitch, are used less
frequently and are always explained fully in the knitting pattern.

KNIT INTO FRONT AND BACK OF STITCH (Abbreviation = kfb or inc 1)

This popular
increase for a knit
row is also called
1 Knit the next
stitch, leaving
the stitch being
2 Wrap the yarn
around the tip
of the right needle,
3 Knitting into
the front and
the back of the
a bar increase worked on the left draw the yarn stitch creates two
because it creates needle. Insert the through the loop to stitches out of one
a little bar between right needle form the second and increases one
the stitches. through the back stitch, and drop stitch in the row.
of the loop from the old stitch off
right to left. the left needle.
New stitch

PURL INTO FRONT AND BACK OF STITCH (Abbreviation = pfb or inc 1)

1 Purl the next stitch, leaving

the stitch being worked on
the left needle. Insert the right
needle through the back of the
loop from left to right.
2 Wrap the yarn around the tip of the
right needle, draw the yarn through
the loop to form the second stitch, and
3 Purling into the front and
the back of the stitch like
this creates two stitches out
drop the old stitch off the left needle. of one and increases one
stitch in the row.

New stitch
 SIMPLE INCREASES 129

LIFTED INCREASE ON KNIT ROW (Abbreviation = RL1, LL1, or inc 1)

The easier,
right-lifted
increase is
1 Insert the tip of
the right needle
from front to back
2 Knit the next stitch
(the stitch above the
lifted stitch on the left
3 This creates two
stitches out of
one and increases
shown here. through the stitch needle) in the usual way. one stitch in the row.
See p.139 for below the next (The purl version
the left-lifted stitch on the left of this stitch is
version. needle. Knit this worked using the
lifted loop. same principle.)

New stitch

MAKE-ONE LEFT LEANING INCREASE ON A KNIT ROW (Abbreviation = M1L or M1k)

1 Insert the tip of the

left needle from
front to back under
2 Wrap the yarn
around the tip of the
right needle and draw
3 This creates an
extra stitch in
the row. (Knitting
the horizontal strand the yarn through the through the back
between the stitch just lifted loop. (This is of the loop twists
knit and the next stitch. called knitting through the base of the
Then insert the right the back of the loop.) new stitch to
needle through the produce a crossed
strand on the left needle stitch that closes
from right to left behind up the hole it
the left needle. would have New stitch
created.) slants to
the left
 130 INCREASES AND DECREASES

MAKE-ONE RIGHT LEANING INCREASE ON A KNIT ROW (Abbreviation = M1R or M1k)

Patterns do not always differentiate

1 Insert the tip of the
2 Wrap the yarn around
TECHNIQUES

between left and right make-one left needle from the tip of the needle
increases. Choose the most suitable back to front under the and draw the yarn through
for your project. horizontal strand between the lifted loop, knitting into
the stitch just knit and the the front of the stitch.
next stitch. Insert the right
needle from left to right
into the front of this new
loop, twisting the stitch.

3 This action twists the lifted stitch, and

closes the hole made by picking up the loop.
The resulting increase slants to the right and is
normally worked at the end of a knit row.

Slants to
the right
 SIMPLE INCREASES 131

MAKE-ONE INCREASE ON PURL ROW (Abbreviation = M1 or M1p)

1 Insert the tip of

the left needle from
front to back under
2 Wrap the yarn around the tip
of the right needle and draw
the yarn through the lifted loop
3 This creates an
extra stitch in the
row. (Purling through
the horizontal strand (known as purling through the the back of the loop
between the stitch just back of the loop.) twists the base of the
knit and the next stitch. new stitch to produce
Then insert the right a crossed stitch that
needle through the closes up the hole it
strand on the left needle would have created.)
from left to right behind
the left needle.
New stitch

MULTIPLE INCREASES (Abbreviation = [k1, p1, k1] into next st)

This is a very easy increase if you need

to add more than one stitch to an existing
stitch, but it does create a small hole under
2 Then purl and knit into the same loop on
the left needle. This action is called knit
one, purl one, knit one all into the next stitch.
the new stitches. It creates two extra stitches in the row. You can
keep alternating k and p stitches in the same

1
loop to create more stitches if desired.
To begin the increase, knit the
next stitch but leave the old
stitch on the left needle. k1
p1
k1
 132 INCREASES AND DECREASES

YARN-OVER INCREASES
Yarn-over increases add stitches to a row and create holes at the same time, so they are
TECHNIQUES

often called visible increases. They are used to produce decorative mesh and lace fabrics
(see pp.152–153). A yarn over is made by looping the yarn around the right needle to form
an extra stitch. It is important to wrap the loop around the needle in the correct way
or it will become crossed when it is worked in the next row, which closes the hole.

YARN OVER BETWEEN KNIT STITCHES (Abbreviation = yo)

1 Bring the yarn to the front

of the knitting between the
needles. Bring the yarn over the
top of the right needle to the
back and work the next knit
stitch in the usual way.
2 When the knit
stitch is complete,
the yarn over is
3 On the following row,
when you reach the yarn
over, purl it through the
correctly formed on front of the loop in the usual
the right needle with way. This creates an open
the right leg of the hole under the purl stitch.
loop at the front.

Completed Purl yarn over

yarn-over on next row
increase

YARN OVER BETWEEN PURL STITCHES (Abbreviation = yo)

1 Bring the yarn to the back

of the work over the top of
the right needle, then to the
2 When the purl stitch
is complete, the yarn
over is correctly formed on
3 On the following row,
when you reach the yarn
over, knit it through the front
front between the needles. the right needle with the of the loop in the usual way.
Work the next purl stitch right leg of the loop at the This creates an open hole
in the usual way. front of the needle. under the knit stitch.

Completed
yarn-over
increase Knit yarn over
on next row

YARN OVER BETWEEN KNIT AND PURL STITCHES (Abbreviation = yo)
After a knit stitch and before a purl stitch:
Bring the yarn to the front between the
needles, then over the top of the right needle
and to the front again. Purl the next stitch.
On the following row, work the yarn over
through the front of the loop in the usual
way to create an open hole.
Yarn-over
increase
YARN OVER AT THE BEGINNING OF A ROW (Abbreviation = yo)
At the beginning of a row before a knit
stitch: Insert the tip of the right needle
behind the yarn and into the first stitch
knitwise. Then take the yarn over the top
of the right needle to the back and complete
the knit stitch. On the following row, work
the yarn over through the front of the loop
in the usual way to create an open scallop
at the edge.
Yarn-over
increase
YARN-OVER INCREASES 133
After a purl stitch and before a knit stitch:
Bring the yarn over the top of the right needle
and to the back of the work, then knit the next
stitch. On the following row, work the yarn
over through the front of the loop in the usual
way to create an open hole.
Yarn-over
increase
At the beginning of a row before a purl stitch:
Wrap the yarn from front to back over the
top of the right needle and to the front again
between the needles. Then purl the first
stitch. On the following row, work the yarn
over through the front of the loop in the usual
way to create an open scallop at the edge.
Yarn-over
increase
 134 INCREASES AND DECREASES

DOUBLE YARN OVER (Abbreviation = yo2 or yo twice)

1 For a double yarn

2 Knit the next stitch
3 On the following row
TECHNIQUES

over between two in the usual way. This (a purl row), purl the
knit stitches, bring the creates two new loops on first yarn over and knit
yarn over the top of the the right needle. the second. A double yarn
right needle to the back over creates a bigger hole
of the work, between than a single yarn over.
the needles to the front It is frequently used for lace
again, and over the top knitting and buttonholes.
of the right needle to the
back again, ready to knit
the next stitch. Two yarn overs Knit second Purl first
yarn over yarn over

CLOSED YARN OVER ON GARTER STITCH

This technique is used as

an “invisible” increase and is
especially good for garter stitch.
2 On the next row,
knit the yarn over
through the front loop
3 This creates a
crossed stitch and
closes the yarn over
(the strand at the front hole. Although the

1 Take the yarn from back

to front over the top of the
right needle, then around the
of the left needle). crossed stitch is similar
to the one made with
a Make-one increase
Completed
needle to the back of the work (see p.130), it is looser,
closed
between the needles. Knit the and so it is perfect for
Knit yarn over through yarn over
next stitch in the usual way. the loose garter
front on next row
stitch texture.
Yarn-over
increase
 SIMPLE DECREASES 135

SIMPLE DECREASES
These simple decreases are often used for shaping knitting and, paired with increases,
for textured and lace stitches. More complicated decreases are always explained in
knitting instructions. Most of the decreases that follow are single decreases that
subtract only one stitch from the knitting, but a few double decreases are included.

KNIT TWO TOGETHER (Abbreviation = k2tog or dec 1)

1 Insert the tip of the

right needle from
left to right through
2 Wrap the yarn around
the tip of the right
needle, draw the yarn
3 This makes two
stitches into one and
decreases one stitch in
the second stitch through both loops and the row. The completed
then the first stitch drop the old stitches off stitch slants to the right.
on the left needle. the left needle. Completed
decrease
slants right

PURL TWO TOGETHER (Abbreviation = p2tog or dec 1)

1 Use the p2tog

decrease where
a pattern specifies
2 Wrap the yarn around
the tip of the right
needle, draw the yarn
3 This makes two
stitches into one
and decreases one
“decrease 1” on a purl through both loops and stitch in the row.
row. Insert the tip of the drop the old stitches off
right needle from right the left needle.
to left through the first Completed
then the second stitch
decrease slants
on the left needle.
right on right
side of work
 136 INCREASES AND DECREASES

SLIP ONE, KNIT ONE, PASS SLIPPED STITCH OVER (Abbreviation = s1 k1 psso or skpo)

1 Slip the first stitch

2 Pick up the slipped
3 This makes two stitches
TECHNIQUES

on the left needle
knitwise (see p.123)
onto the right needle
without working it.
Knit the next stitch.
Slipped
knitwise
onto right
needle
stitch with the tip of into one and decreases
the left needle and pass one stitch in the row.
it over the knit stitch and
off the right needle.
Completed
decrease
slants left
on the right
side of
the fabric

SLIP, SLIP, KNIT (Abbreviation = ssk)

1 Slip the next two stitches on the

left needle knitwise (see p.123),
one at a time, onto the right needle
2 Insert the tip of the
left needle from left to
right through the fronts of
3 This makes two
stitches into one
and decreases one
without working them. the two slipped stitches (the stitch in the row.
right needle is now behind
the left). Knit these two
Slipped stitches together.
knitwise Completed
onto right decrease
needle slants left on
the right side
of the fabric
 SIMPLE DECREASES 137

SLIP, SLIP, PURL (Abbreviation = ssp)

1 Keeping the yarn

at the front, slip
two stitches, one
2 Holding the
needles tip to tip,
insert the left needle
3 Holding the right needle at the back, bring
the tip upward from left to right through
the back of the two stitches, bringing the right
4 Lay the yarn between the needles as for
purl. Take the right needle down and back
through both loops, then slide them off the
at a time, knitwise into both stitches needle in front of the left as it comes through left needle together. This makes one stitch out
(see p.123) onto the and transfer them the stitches. of the two, and decreases one stitch.
right needle without back to the left
working them as for needle without
ssk decrease. twisting them.

DOUBLE DECREASES

k3tog: Insert the tip of
the right needle from
left to right through the
third stitch on the left
needle, then the second,
then the first. Knit
these three together.
This decreases two
Top stitch in
decrease stitches at once.
slants right
on the right
side of
the fabric
s1 k2tog psso: Slip one
stitch knitwise onto the
right needle, knit the next
two stitches together, then
pass the slipped stitch over
the k2tog and off the right
needle. This decreases two
Top stitch in stitches at once.
decrease
slants left
on the right
side of
the fabric
s2 k1 p2sso: Slip two
stitches knitwise together
onto the right needle, knit
the next stitch, then pass
the two slipped stitches
together over the knit
stitch and off the right
needle. This decreases
Top stitch in
two stitches at once.
decrease is
upright on
the right
side of
the fabric
 138 INCREASES AND DECREASES

PAIRED INCREASES AND DECREASES

Increases or decreases at each end of a row can be worked to slant left or right so that
TECHNIQUES

the edges mirror each other. Paired shapings should be worked at consistent intervals,
and are easier if worked on a knit row. When working a pattern, one or two edge stitches
can be worked plain so that the shaping does not affect the pattern.

SUMMARY OF INCREASES AND DECREASES

PAIRED INCREASES

WHEN MADE AT END OF A ROW ABBREVIATION WHEN MADE AT BEGINNING OF A ROW ABBREVIATION

Slants left on the knit side of stockinette Slants right on the knit side of stockinette
stitch—increases the right edge stitch—increases the left edge

Knit (or purl) in front and back of stitch kfb or inc1 Knit (or purl) in front and back of stitch kfb or inc1

Purl in front and back increases: Knit in front and back increases:
• on a purl row seen from knit side, bar to the • on a knit row seen from knit side, bar to the
right of the stitch into which increase is made left of the stitch into which increase is made

Left lifted increase LL1 or M1L Right lifted increase RL1 or M1R

• virtually invisible • virtually invisible

• must have rows between or will pull • must have rows between or will pull
• shows to right of increased stitch—slants • shows to left of increased stitch—slants the
the original stitch to the left and toward the original stitch to the right and toward the
selvage when used for edge shaping selvage when used for edge shaping

Make one knit (or purl) left cross M1L Make one knit (or purl) right cross M1R

• virtually invisible • virtually invisible

• must have rows between or will pull • must have rows between or will pull
• made between stitches, so shows where placed • made between stitches, so shows where placed
• slants the stitch worked after it to the left • slants the stitch worked before it to the right

PAIRED DECREASES

WHEN MADE AT END OF A ROW ABBREVIATION WHEN MADE AT START OF A ROW ABBREVIATION

Right slant—decreases the left of the knit Left slant—decreases the right of the knit
side of stockinette stitch side of stockinette stitch

Knit (or purl) two together k2tog (p2tog) Slip, slip, knit (or slip, slip, purl) ssk (ssp)

Slip1, knit1, pass slipped stitch over skp, s1 K1 psso,

or skpo

Knit (or purl) two together through back k2tog tbl (p2tog tbl)
of loops or k-b2tog (p-b2tog)
 PAIRED INCREASES AND DECREASES 139

PAIRED LIFTED EDGE INCREASE

This example increases each side

of stockinette stitch using a Right
lifted increase (see p.129) at the
1 On an increase row,
knit one stitch. Make
a right lifted increase by
2 Knit to the last but one stitch of the row. Make a
Left lifted increase by inserting the left needle tip
from front to back into the left side of the stitch two
start, and its paired Left lifted inserting the tip of the rows below the new stitch on the right needle. Knit
increase (see p.129) at the end right needle from front this loop, and knit the last stitch.
of every alternate knit row. to back into the right
side of the stitch below
the next stitch on the
left needle (be careful
not to catch more than
one strand of yarn). Knit
this lifted loop.

Slants to left

3 If you find the left lifted increase

awkward, pick up the loop with the left
needle from back to front, slip it onto the
4 The paired increases look like this when
completed over a number of rows.

right needle, twisting it as it is returned to

the left. Knit into the front of the loop.
 140 INCREASES AND DECREASES

PAIRED EDGE DECREASES (Abbreviation = skp and k2tog)

This example has decreases on each side

1 At the start of a knit row,
TECHNIQUES

of stockinette stitch. It has a slip1, knit1, work a slip1, knit1, psso

pass slipped stitch over (skp) at the as shown on p.136.
beginning of the row, which is paired with
knit two together (k2tog) at the end of the
row. Slip, slip, knit (ssk) may be substituted
for skp, if preferred.

2 Knit to two stitches from the end of

the row and knit two stitches together
as shown on p.135.

“k2tog” slants
to the right “skp” slants
on left edge to the left on
right edge
 FULLY FASHIONED SHAPING 141

FULLY FASHIONED SHAPING

This is a method of increasing or decreasing the width of stockinette stitch while
preserving a line of stitches that follow the outline of the piece. This looks attractive and
makes sewing up easier. Use “paired” increases and decreases on a symmetrical piece; a
left-slope decrease must be mirrored by a right-slope one on the other side.

ON A KNIT ROW (Abbreviation = ssk and k2tog)

This example decreases one stitch

at each end of a knit row but leaves
two plain stitches at the selvage.
2 Knit to four stitches from the end of the row.
Knit two stitches together (see p.135) and then
knit the last two stitches. This slopes to the right.

1 Knit the first two stitches. Slip the

next two stitches knitwise, one by
one onto the right needle. Insert the
left needle from left to right through
the front of both stitches and knit “k2tog” “ssk” on
together. This is a left-slanting ssk on stitches stitches
slanting to slanting
decrease (see pp.136 and 140).
right on to left on
left edge right edge

ON A PURL ROW (Abbreviation = ssp and p2tog)

This example decreases one stitch at each end of a purl

row but leaves two plain stitches at the selvage. 2 Work to four stitches from the end, purl two
stitches together (see p.135) and purl the last
two stitches. This slopes to the left. Ssk and ssp

1 Purl the first two stitches. Slip the next two stitches one
at a time knitwise onto the right needle. Slip them back
together without twisting (purlwise). Insert the right needle
work better than other decreases when paired
with k2tog or p2tog.

into the front of both stitches from the right and purl them
together (ssp). This slopes to the right.

“ssp” on
stitches “p2tog”
slanting to on stitches
right on slanting
left edge to left on
right edge
 142 INCREASES AND DECREASES

DECORATIVE CENTRAL INCREASES AND DECREASES

Although double (or paired) increases and decreases are most commonly used for edge
TECHNIQUES

shaping in knitting, they become decorative as well as functional when worked close
together within the main fabric. For example, central decreases might be spaced around
a flared peplum as part of the pattern, while central increases could emphasize waist-
to-bust darting. Decorative central decreases are sometimes combined with yarn-over
increases in more complex lace patterns. All increase or decrease two stitches in the row.

KNIT INTO FRONT AND BACK AS A CENTRAL DOUBLE INCREASE (Abbreviation = cdi and incto3)

1 This example works a central paired increase on the knit

rows of stockinette stitch. It uses the Knit into front and
back increase (see p.128). This forms a “bar” to the left of the
2 Knit to one stitch before the
center stitch. Knit into the
front of next stitch and, leaving
stitch into which the increase is worked; therefore, it must be the stitch on the left needle,
offset when worked as a balanced, paired increase. Mark the knit into the back of the stitch
center stitch, moving this up as you work. and drop the old stitch off the
left needle (this places the bar
to right of the center stitch).
Work another of the same
increase on the center stitch
(this places the bar to left of
the center stitch).

3 Knit to the end of the row. Purl one complete

row, and repeat the increase sequence. This
increase can be made in a similar manner into a
purl stitch, in which case the bar lies to the right
of the stitch.

4 This increase can be used in fully fashioned

shaping (see p.141); in which case, work
the increase on the second stitch from the
beginning of the row and the third from
the end to leave two stitches symmetrically
along the selvages.

OPEN CENTRAL INCREASE (Abbreviation = cdi and incto3)
1 On the purl row before the increase, make
a yarn over at the position of the increase.
Knit to the increase position on the next row.
Knit into the back of the yarn over, and drop
the yarn over off the left needle.
CLOSED CENTRAL INCREASE (Abbreviation = cdi and incto3)
1 Work the row, stopping before knitting
the central stitch. Knit into the back and
front of the central stitch and slide off the
left needle. Gently pull the yarn to tighten
the last stitch.
DECORATIVE CENTRAL INCREASES AND DECREASES 143
3 Repeat Steps 1 and 2 as you work
up the piece. This increases two
stitches every other row.
2 Insert the left needle back into the dropped
loop from back left so it is twisted as
shown, and knit into the front of the loop.
3 Knit to the end of the row. Purl the next
row. Repeat Steps 1–3, remembering that
there will be one more stitch to knit on each
row before working the increase.
2 Look for the vertical strand stretching
downward immediately to the right of
this stitch. Insert the tip of the left needle
from the left into this strand and knit into
the back of the loop.
 144 INCREASES AND DECREASES

RAISED CENTRAL DECREASE (Abbreviation = cdd)

1 This example is worked on stockinette

3 Knit the next stitch.
TECHNIQUES

stitch over an odd number of stitches.

Temporarily mark the central stitch with
a split marker or a tie of contrast thread.

2 Slip the next two stitches together

knitwise (see p.123); this will be the
one stitch before and the central stitch.

Slipped
stitches
will be
crossed

4 Insert the tip of the left

needle into both slipped
stitches and pass them
5 Repeat Steps 2–4 as required. To
ensure that the decrease is worked in
the correct place, on each decreasing row,
together over the first stitch work to one stitch before the marked
and off the right needle. raised central stitch. If you find it difficult
This decreases two stitches. to see this, move the stitch marker
Knit to the end of the row, upward as you knit.
or to the next decrease.
Purl the next row.

FLAT CENTRAL DECREASE (Abbreviation = cdd)
1 This example is worked on
stockinette stitch. Working only
on knit rows, knit to one stitch from
the central stitch. Temporarily mark
the central stitch with a split marker
or a tie of contrast thread. Slip the
next stitch knitwise (see p.123).
2 Insert the right needle
knitwise through the next
two stitches at once, and knit
them together.
DECORATIVE CENTRAL INCREASES AND DECREASES 145
3 Insert the left needle into the
second stitch on the right
needle and pass it over the last
stitch and off the needle. Knit to
the end of the row.
4 To keep the decrease central, knit to one
stitch before the central stitch of the
decrease below before repeating Steps 1–3.
This technique decreases one stitch on either
side of the central stitch.
 146

TWISTS AND CABLES

TECHNIQUES

Many interesting textures can be created by combining knit and purl stitches in
various sequences (see pp.61–64), but if you are looking for textures with higher relief and more

sculptural qualities, cables and twists are the techniques to learn. Both are made by crossing

stitches over each other in different ways to form an array of intricate patterns.

SIMPLE TWISTS
A simple twist is made over only two stitches, without a cable needle. Although twists do
not create as high a relief as cables, their ease and subtlety make them very popular. The
following twists are worked in stockinette stitch on a stockinette stitch ground. They can
also be worked with one knit and one purl stitch—the principle is the same.

RIGHT TWIST (Abbreviation = t2r)

1 With yarn at the back of

the right needle and in
front of the left, knit the
2 Knit the first stitch on the left
needle and drop both old
stitches off the left needle
3 Without the use of a cable needle,
this creates a “one-over-one”
two-stitch cable slanting to the
second stitch leaving the at the same time. right—a right twist.
first and second stitches
on the left needle.

LEFT TWIST (Abbreviation = t2l)

1 Insert the tip of

the right needle
behind the first stitch
2 Pull the loop through the second
stitch behind the first stitch. Be
careful not to drop either the first or
3 Knit the first stitch on
the left needle and drop
both old stitches off the left
on the left needle and second stitches off the left needle yet. needle. This creates a two-stitch
through the second cable slanting to the left—a
stitch knitwise. Wrap left twist.
the yarn around the
right needle.
 CABLES 147

CABLES
Cables are usually worked in stockinette stitch on a reverse stockinette stitch (or garter
stitch) background. They are made by crossing two, three, four or more stitches over
other stitches in the row. This technique is illustrated here with the cable 4 front and
cable 4 back cables, which are crossed on every sixth row.

CABLE 4 FRONT (Abbreviation = c4f)

1 Work to the position of

the four stockinette
stitches that form the cable
2 Next, knit the two
stitches from the
cable needle.
3 This creates a cable
crossing that slants
to the left. For this
and slip the first two stitches reason, a “front” cable is
onto a cable needle. With the also called a “left” cable.
cable needle at the front, knit
the next two stitches on the
left needle.

CABLE 4 BACK (Abbreviation = c4b)

1 Work as for Step 1 of

Cable 4 front (above), but
hold the cable needle to the
2 Knit the two
stitches from
the cable needle.
3 This creates a cable
crossing that slants
to the right. For this
back instead of the front of reason, a “back” cable is
the knitting. also called a “right” cable.
 148

I-CORD
TECHNIQUES

I-cord stands for “idiot” cord and is also known as slip cord. An I-cord makes
a neat edging or can be used for straps and ties, or for appliqué in a contrasting color. Use

smaller needles for a tighter edge and work at a firm tension. I-cords can be knitted using

double-pointed needles or circular needles.

FREE-FORM I-CORD
These cords can be applied to an item later, so it is possible to add extra detail as they are
worked. Stripes, texture, structural effects, and even beads can be incorporated. With its
simple method but multiple uses, I-cord is a very versatile technique.

SIMPLE I-CORD—FOR APPLIQUÉ, TIES, AND STRAPS

1 Cast on five stitches using the Backward

loop cast-on shown on p.91. Knit one row. 3 Insert the right needle into
the first stitch on the left
needle, pull the yarn firmly from
the left side of the knitting
around the back to knit the first
stitch. Tug the yarn again to pull
the knitting around into a tube.
4 Repeat Steps
2 and 3 until
the cord is the
required length.

2 Transfer the needle to

your left hand without
turning it, and slide all the
stitches to the right end of
the needle, so that the yarn
appears to be at the wrong
end to knit another row.

SPIRAL I-CORD TWO-COLOR I-CORD

This version works up shorter

than stockinette stitch I-cord,
but is stretchier.
1 Cast on five stitches using
Backward loop cast-on (see p.91).
Knit the first stitch in the main color.

2 Insert the right needle into

the second stitch and lay the
3 Drop the contrast, pick
up the main color, and
knit the third stitch. Repeat,
contrast yarn between the needles.

1
alternating colors, ending
Cast on three stitches Knit the second stitch.
with the main color.
using the Backward

4
loop or Cable cast-on method
Slide stitches to the
(see pp.91 and 93). Knit one
other end of the needle
row. Continue as for Simple
as in Simple I-cord (above).
I-cord (see above), but purl the
Keeping the colors in
next row. Repeat, alternating
sequence, knit the next row.
knit and purl rows to the
Repeat Steps 2–4 to required
required length.
length. See techniques for
holding the yarns on p.89.
 ATTACHED I-CORD 149

ATTACHED I-CORD
Attaching I-cords as you work saves time sewing up later on. I-cords can be added to
a finished piece for edging, or form part of the main project as a cast-off or edge. Their
use as button loops and soft buttons add attractive and unique finishes to garments.

I-CORD EDGING I-CORD BUTTON LOOP

1 Cast on between two and

five stitches. Knit one row.
Transfer the needle to your left
1 Leave a tail of yarn
four times the
selvedge length. Using a
hand. Slide stitches as for Simple circular needle and the
I-cord (opposite). yarn tail, pick up into the
selvedge (RS facing).

2 Pull yarn around back of

stitches and knit all but the
last stitch of the next row. Slip the
Return to the starting
end of the needle, and
cast on three stitches
remaining stitch knitwise from using Cable cast-on.
left to right needle.

3 With an empty left needle, pick

up the extreme right loop of the
lowest stitch on the main fabric edge
from left to right. (This ensures the stitch
is correctly positioned for Step 4.)

2 Using a double-pointed needle (dpn), knit

two stitches. Slip the last I-cord and first
edge stitch onto the right needle, knitwise,
one by one. Insert a dpn from left to right into
the front of both stitches and knit together
(ssk). Repeat this step to the position of the
button loop.

3 Continue with unattached I-cord until

loop is correct size for button. Join I-cord
to main fabric as in Step 2.

4 Hold the needle with I-cord to the right of

the edge of the main fabric. Knit the stitch
on the left needle onto the right one. There
will now be one extra stitch on the right
needle. Insert the left needle into the second
5 Repeat Steps 2–4. If the I-cord is joined,
graft open stitches for a smooth join.
When edging curves, use a larger needle in
stitch on the right needle (slipped stitch) and the right hand, reverting to the original size
pass it over the first stitch. on straight sections.
 150 I-CORD
I-CORD CAST-OFF
1 If the I-cord is to be in
TECHNIQUES
contrast color, work the
last row of the main piece in
the contrast yarn. Holding work
to be cast off in the left hand,
add three stitches to left needle
using Cable cast-on (see p.93).
I-CORD BOBBLE
1 At the bobble position,
drop the straight right
needle (use a point protector
to hold stitches, if necessary).
With a double-pointed
needle, knit into the front,
back, front, and back again
of the next stitch.
2 Knit two stitches. Slip the next
3 Slip the three stitches on the double-pointed needle
two stitches (last of I-cord and to the opposite end. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to end of
first of edge stitches) onto the right cast-off. This technique is worked the same on the purl
needle one by one knitwise. Insert a side of the work. Work loosely, since I-cord can pucker the
double-pointed needle from left to cast-off edge if worked tight.
right into the front of both stitches
and knit together (ssk).
2 Slide stitches to the
opposite end of the
needle. Pull yarn across
3 Starting with the second stitch, pass the
stitches one by one over the first stitch.
Slide the remaining stitch back onto the right
back and knit the four needle, and using the main needles, knit to
stitches again; repeat the next bobble.
for the required number
of rows.
Point
protector
 ATTACHED I-CORD 151

I-CORD BUTTON

For a bigger button, work a four or five stitch I-cord; here

we do one with three stitches. 2 Make another counterclockwise loop that lies
sideways, facing to the right, and which crosses
over Loop A except at the end, where it passes under

1 Knit 153⁄4in (40cm) of three-stitch I-cord using a provisional

cast-on and cast-off. Pin the left end to something secure
with the I-cord stretching to the right. Make a counterclockwise
the I-cord coming from the pin; this is Loop B.

loop that crosses back over itself to the right of the pin; this is
Loop A and it points away from you.
Loop A

Loop A

Loop B

Loop A
4 Gently pull both
ends to shape
the button into a
Over B, under A,
over B, under A, ball. Either unravel
through C so ends the ends of the cord
lie together and sew the yarn
ends in to complete
Loop B the button, or cast
off and appliqué
the I-cord ends
to the garment
for a decorative
“frogging” effect.

Loop C

3 Make another counter-

clockwise loop that faces
toward you; this is Loop C. The end of
this loop has to be woven over and under
Loops A and B. It goes in over the first I-cord of Loop B,
then under the first I-cord of Loop A, over the second
I-cord of Loop B and then out under the second I-cord
of Loop A. Finally, bring this end toward you over all
the I-cords; thread it down through Loop C.
 152

LACE KNITTING
TECHNIQUES

The airy, openwork texture of knitted lace is formed by combining yarn overs and
decreases to create holes (or eyelets) all over the fabric. Although lace knitting looks complicated,

the techniques are relatively easy. If you choose a lace stitch with a short horizontal stitch repeat,

you can work the openwork fabric quickly and still produce impressive delicate textures.

TIPS FOR LACE KNITTING

Eyelets arranged in various ways are the basis of all lace stitches. unravel back to the lifeline and start over. Use stitch markers to
Eyelets are made up of yarn overs (see pp.132–134), which produce separate each pattern repeat until you know it by heart.
the holes in the fabric, and decreases, which frame the eyelets and
• Count your stitches frequently when knitting lace to make sure
compensate for these increases in the row to keep the knitting the
you still have the right number of stitches. If you are missing a stitch
same width. The techniques for two simple eyelets are given here,
you may have left out a yarn over. There is no need to undo stitches
but there are other ways of producing eyelets and these methods are
all the way back; simply work to the position of the missing yarn over
always explained in full in the stitch instructions.
on the following row, then insert the left needle from front to back
• Cast on loosely for lace patterns. This is best achieved not by trying under the strand between the stitch just worked and the next stitch
to make loose loops but by spacing the cast-on stitches farther apart on the left needle (see below). Work this stitch through the front of
on the knitting needle, with at least 1⁄8in (3mm) between the loops. the loop in the usual way.
If you find this difficult to do evenly, then use a needle one or two
sizes larger than the size you are using for the lace and switch to the
correct needle size on the first row. Depending on the yarn, long-
tipped metal needles may be easier to work with than wooden ones. Picking up and working a
• Start simply. Lace patterns can have yarnovers and decreases in the missing yarn over
first row. These are not easy to work on cast-on loops, so you can start
with a plain row, then begin the lace pattern on the following row.
• Use a row counter to keep track of where you are in the pattern.
Inserting a lifeline by using a sewing needle to thread a thin, contrast
color yarn into each stitch along the same plain row in every repeat
will enable unraveling. This is especially important for intricate lace
worked over a long row-repeat. If you do get lost in your pattern,

CHAIN EYELET

1 For a chain eyelet

on a stockinette stitch
background, begin by creating
2 The yarn over creates
a hole in the knitting
and the k2tog decrease
3 On the following row, purl the yarnover
in the usual way. A single chain eyelet
is shown here so that its structure is clear,
a yarn over on the right needle compensates for the extra but eyelets can be arranged separated by
(see p.132). Knit the next two loop so that the knitting several rows and several stitches or sitting
stitches together (see p.135). remains the same width. side by side.

Yarn over
 YARNS FOR LACE 153

OPEN EYELET

1 For an open eyelet

on a stockinette stitch
background, work a yarn
2 The yarn over
creates a hole
and the decrease
over on the right needle (see compensates for the
p.132). Then work a “s1 k1 extra loop so that the
psso” decrease (see p.136) knitting remains the
after the yarn over. same width.
3 On the following row,
purl the yarn over in the
usual way. Open eyelets can
be arranged in various ways An open
to create any number of
eyelet can
different lace textures.
be used as a
buttonhole

Yarn over

YARNS FOR LACE

Knitted lace was first designed to look similar to traditional needle lace, so it was worked
on thin needles in white cotton thread. Fine yarn does enhance the delicacy, but openwork
knitting can look interesting in other yarns as well. Here are a few examples.

PSEUDO LACE MULTICOLORED OPENWORK

The quickest way to produce For added interest, use

a delicate effect is to knit a double-knitting-weight
Garter stitch using fine yarn yarn with variegated colors
and very large needles. You for openwork. This stitch
can make an attractive scarf pattern is Grand eyelet mesh
this way in a flash, and any stitch (see p.65), which looks
type of yarn, such as this the same on both sides and
metallic one, is suitable for is extremely easy to work.
the pseudo lace technique.

MOHAIR LACE TRADITIONAL-STYLE KNITTED LACE

Fine mohair yarn highlights Fine cotton thread on very

the delicacy of the lacy thin needles is used to work
stitches. Try easy lace patterns traditional-style knitted lace.
such as this Mini-leaf pattern You can see how much more
(see p.66) when using mohair, delicate this Domino eyelet
as it is more difficult to knit pattern looks when knitted
with than smooth yarn, and in superfine yarn instead
complicated lace doesn’t show of a lightweight cotton yarn,
up clearly in textured yarns. as on p.67.
 154

COLORWORK
TECHNIQUES

You have many technique choices if you like adding colors to your knitting. The
easiest method is to knit plain stockinette stitch using a multicolored yarn or a variegated yarn,

which changes color along the strand. To add colors into the knitting yourself, you can work

simple stripes, easy colorwork stitch patterns, or charted Fair Isle or intarsia motifs.

SIMPLE STRIPES
Horizontal stripes are perfect for knitters who want to have fun with color without learning
more advanced techniques. These examples show the variety of stripe widths, colors, and
textures available. You can follow any plain colored pattern and introduce stripes in the same
yarn without affecting the gauge or shape of the knitting.

TWO-COLOR GARTER STITCH STRIPE TWO-COLOR KNIT AND PURL PINSTRIPE

This stripe pattern Knit this stripe in

is worked in garter two colors (A and
stitch in two colors B). Work 6 rows in
(A and B). To work stockinette stitch
the stripe, knit 2 in A. Drop A at the
rows in each color side and knit 2
alternately, rows in B—the
dropping the color second of these
not in use at the rows creates a purl
side of the work ridge on the right
and picking side. Repeat this
it up when it is sequence for the
needed again. pinstripe effect. To
avoid loose strands
of B at the edge,
wrap A around B at
the start of every
right-side row.

FIVE-COLOR STOCKINETTE STITCH STRIPE TEXTURED STOCKINETTE STITCH STRIPE

To work multiple This stripe is

stripes and carry worked in a
the colors up the mohair yarn in
side, use a circular two colors (A and
needle. Work back B) and a smooth
and forth in rows. cotton yarn (C).
If a yarn you need The cotton yarn
to pick up is at the provides a good
opposite end, push contrast in
all the stitches texture and sheen
back to the other and highlights
end of the circular the fuzziness of
needle and work the mohair.
the next row with
the same side of
the knitting facing
as the last row.
 SIMPLE STRIPES 155

PLAIN-COLOR DOMINO SQUARES

Before moving on to colored

versions and stripes in domino
squares, first learn how to knit
3 Slip the first stitch knitwise, knit to the last
but one stitch, then purl the last stitch.
Right-side rows, on which the s1 k2tog psso
them in one color. is worked on the center three stitches, are
identified by the yarn tail being at the right.

1 This technique works central decreases in

garter stitch. Cast on 21 stitches with the
Knit-on method (see p.92). First row is a
2 Turn the work. Slip first stitch knitwise,
knit to first marker. S1, k2tog, psso (see
p.137). Knit to end, purling the last stitch.
4 Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until you have one
stitch left. Cut the yarn and pull the end
through as normal, but not tightly so that it
wrong-side (WS) row. Slip first stitch knitwise, can be rethreaded when another square is
knit eight stitches. Add a marker, knit three knitted on.
stitches, and add another marker. Knit next
eight stitches and purl the final one.

JOINING DOMINO SQUARES

1 With the right side

of the original square
facing and needle with
2 Cast on another 10 stitches on left needle
using Knit-on method (see p.92). Knit
this square as for Plain color domino knitting
3 Continue to add squares, using
different colored yarns as required.
When combined with the following
remaining end stitch from (see above). technique, no sewing is required at all.
last square in your right
hand, pick up and knit 10
stitches along the edge of
the original square using
yarn for the new square
(see p.121). Pick up
through the center of
loops of edge stitches.
 156 COLORWORK

WEAVING IN ENDS DURING DOMINO KNITTING

1 On right-side rows it is
3 Lay the new color between the
4 Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until the tail of the
TECHNIQUES

possible to weave in
the ends as you knit. Start
with the lowest end,
with the new color held
in the right hand, and the
old color over the left
index finger.
needles as normal and knit the old color is woven in, then drop it for
stitch. As you pass the new color loop trimming later and complete the square.
off the needle, allow the old color to slide Trim it, leaving about 1⁄2in (1cm) of yarn to
to the right and over the tip of the right prevent it from unraveling on the right side.
needle so that it does not catch in the
new stitch. Knit one stitch without
weaving the old color.

2 Insert the right needle

into the first left stitch,
bring the old color (on your
left finger) around the
front of the right needle
from right to left.

STRIPED DOMINO SQUARES NEATENING THE EDGES

1 Working as plain
domino square (see
p.155), cast on 21 stitches.
Knit the first row in the
main color.
2 Continue as plain domino square,
alternating two rows of contrast and
main color as you work. To join in the
contrast yarn see p.119. Carry the yarns
up the side as you work.
When working two-colored, even-row
stripes, twist the yarns around each
other every 1⁄2–3⁄4in (1-2cm) up the side
of the piece. Alternating the direction
of the twist after each color change
prevents the yarns from becoming
tangled. Be careful not to pull them
tightly or the edge will pucker. This
technique may make a bulky seam
if used with more than two colors.
 MULTICOLOR SLIP-STITCH PATTERNS 157

MULTICOLOR SLIP-STITCH PATTERNS

Slip-stitch patterns are designed especially to use more than one color in the overall
pattern but only ever use one color in a row. With this technique, geometric patterns
are created by working some stitches in a row and slipping others. The pattern here
is shown in two different colorways and is one of the easiest to work.

CHECKERED SLIP-STITCH PATTERN

Follow this pattern to work the stitch and use the

steps below as a guide.
Use three colors for the pattern that contrast in tone:
A (a medium-toned color), B (a light-toned color), and
C (a dark-toned color).
Note: Slip all slip stitches purlwise with the yarn on
the wrong side (WS) of the work.
Using A, cast on a multiple of 4 stitches, plus 2 extra.
Row 1 (WS) Using yarn A, p to end.
Row 2 (RS) Using yarn B, k1, sl 1, *k2, sl 2; rep from * to
last 3 sts, k2, sl 1, k1.
Row 3 Using yarn B, p1, sl 1, *p2, sl 2; rep from * to last
3 sts, p2, sl 1, p1.
Row 4 Using yarn A, k to end.
Row 5 Using yarn C, p2, *sl 2, p2; rep from *.
Row 6 Using yarn C, k2, *sl 2, k2; rep from *.
Rep rows 1–6 to form patt.

WORKING CHECKERED SLIP-STITCH PATTERN

1 This shows the middle

of a pattern row 2
(right-side (RS) row) of the
pattern above. Two stitches
have been slipped. On RS
rows, slip the stitches with
yarn held at the back. Do
not pull the yarn too tightly
on the following stitches.
Right side
2 Row 4 of the pattern
is worked entirely with
yarn A and no stitches are
slipped. The slipped stitches
on the previous row and on
the following row pull the
Yarn B stitches in A up and
down to produce the
box effect.
Two slipped
Right side
stitches
3 On wrong-side (WS) rows of
the check pattern, slip the
stitches with yarn held at the
front. The principle of all the
Yarn A slip-stitch patterns is the same—
only one color is used in a row.
Yarn C
Two slipped
stitches
Wrong
side
 158 COLORWORK

CHARTED COLORWORK
The techniques for charted stockinette stitch colorwork—Fair Isle and intarsia—open up
TECHNIQUES

a world of richly colored designs. In Fair Isle, a yarn color is carried across the wrong side
of the work until it is required. In intarsia, a separate piece of yarn is used for each color
and the yarns are twisted together at the color change junctures.

FOLLOWING A COLORWORK CHART

The first step in understanding charted colorwork is to grasp how
easy the charts are to follow. Rather than writing out how many
stitches in which colors to work across a row, your knitting pattern
provides a chart with the colors marked on it in symbols or in
blocks of color.
If a pattern covers the whole garment back, front, and sleeve
and cannot be repeated, a large chart is provided for each of these
elements with all the stitches on it for the entire piece. Where a
pattern is a simple repeat, the repeat alone is charted. Each square
on a stockinette stitch colorwork chart represents a stitch and each
horizontal row of squares represents a knitted row. You follow
the chart from the bottom to the top, just as your knitting forms
on the needles.
The key provided with the chart tells you which color to use
for each stitch. All odd-numbered rows on a colorwork chart are
usually right-side (knit) rows and are read from right to left. All
even-numbered rows on a colorwork chart are usually wrong-
side (purl) rows and are read from left to right. Always read your
knitting pattern instructions carefully to make sure that the
chart follows these general rules.

FAIR ISLE CHART INTARSIA CHART

The example below of a Fair Isle chart illustrates very clearly how
easy it is to knit simple Fair Isle patterns. No more than two colors
are used in a row, which makes it ideal for colorwork beginners.
The color not in use is stranded across the back of the knitting
until it is needed again.
To identify if a colorwork chart should be worked in the Fair Isle
technique, check that both colors in a row are used across the
entire row. If each color is used after every three or four stitches
(as in this chart), use the stranding technique (opposite). If the
colors are not used over a span of more stitches, use the weaving-in
technique (see pp.160–163) so that the loose strands (called floats)
don’t become too long.
The heart below is an example of a simple intarsia colorwork
chart. Each color on the chart is represented by a different symbol.
The blank square (the background) also represents a color.
You can tell that a charted design should be worked in the
intarsia technique if a color appears only in a section of a row and
is not needed across the entire row. Use a separate long length of
yarn, or yarn on a bobbin, for each area of color in intarsia knitting
(including separated background areas). Twist the colors where
they meet (see p.164).

KEY KEY
= background color = background color = motif color 2
= motif color = motif color 1 = motif color 3

40
17

Read row
30 3 (a knit
Read row 4
(a purl row) 10 row) from
right to
from left left
to right
20 Start here
Read row with a
3 (a knit Row 2 is a right-side
Read row 4 row) purl row row
(a purl row) from right 1
from left 10 to left
to right Motif = 13 sts wide
Start here (x 14 rows tall)
Row 2 is with a
a purl right-side
row 1 row
 HOLDING THE YARNS 159

FAIR ISLE METHOD

This is where two or more colors are used in a row of knitting—traditionally, the colors
would make small repeating patterns in stockinette stitch. The nonworking yarn is
stranded along the wrong side, or may be woven into the back to keep it from catching.

FAIR ISLE STRANDING TECHNIQUE

1 On the knit rows, knit the

stitches in the first color, then
drop it at the back and knit the
stitches in the second color.
Strand the color not in use
loosely across the back of
the work until required.
Changing
2 Work the purl rows
in the same way,
but strand the color not
3 The trick to Fair Isle knitting is to learn
to keep the yarns tensioned evenly, as
shown here. The stranding should not be
colors in use across the front too loose or too tight. With continued
(wrong side). Keep one practice the correct tensioning of the
color on top and the other yarns will become automatic.
underneath so they do not
twist around each other.

HOLDING THE YARNS

These techniques for holding the yarns will speed up your work and produce more even
results. To maintain a consistent weight in your fabric, always carry both yarns to the edge
even if no stitch is required there, and twist them before starting the next row.

HOLDING ONE YARN IN EACH HAND

1 This method works well when there

are only two colors in a row. Hold the
first yarn over your right index finger as
normal and the second over your left index
finger, as shown in Knitting “Continental”
style (see p.89).
2 Knit the first color stitches as usual.
When you reach the second color
stitches keep the first color over your right
index finger. Insert the right needle into next
stitch as if to knit. With your left index finger,
lay the second color forward between the
needles from left to right.
3 Pull the new knit loop through as usual,
keeping both yarns over the correct
index finger. On a purl row, follow the
instructions for Alternative “Continental”
purl stitch (see p.90) to work the color over
your left index finger.
 160 COLORWORK

BOTH YARNS IN THE RIGHT HAND BOTH YARNS IN THE LEFT HAND

Place one color over your right index finger, and one This is ideal for those who knit
TECHNIQUES

over your middle finger. Knit as normal, throwing the Continental style. Hold the first yarn
second color with your middle finger. This method allows over the index finger, and the second over
you the flexibility of potentially adding a third color over the middle finger of your left hand. Throw
your ring finger. the yarns with their respective finger for
knit and purl as shown on p.90.

TECHNIQUES FOR WEAVING

When strands (or floats, as they are also known) are longer than three or four stitches, they
may catch on fingers or rings. To prevent this, weave the nonworking yarn into the back of
the knitting by taking the weaving yarn over and under the working yarn. This can be done
on every other stitch, which makes a denser fabric, or whenever a float is longer than three
stitches, in which case weave into occasional stitches.

WEAVING THE LEFT YARN, KNIT OR PURL WEAVING THE RIGHT YARN, KNIT STITCH

1 Hold one yarn in each hand. Keep

the left yarn and finger below and
to the left of the needles when not
weaving it in. Lift the weaving yarn up,
put the right needle through the stitch
to knit or purl, underneath weaving in
the yarn. Make the stitch with the
main yarn, slipping the weaving yarn
over the needle without catching it.
Weaving yarn (left)
2 Knit or purl the stitch,
catching the floating yarn
in the back of the fabric. Knit
the next stitch without weaving
in the left yarn, by dropping
your left finger to the back
so the yarn lies below the
needles before making the
stitch.Weave in as necessary
to prevent long floats.
Working yarn (right)
1 This method uses one yarn in
each hand. Keep the right yarn
above and to the right of the needles
2 Return the right yarn back
along its route to its original
position and knit the stitch. Knit
when not weaving it in. To weave, the next stitch without wrapping
insert the right needle into the the right yarn. Weave in as
stitch. Wind the right yarn around necessary to prevent long floats.
the needle as to knit, throw the
left yarn as usual to knit.
Weaving yarn (right)
Working yarn (left)
 TECHNIQUES FOR WEAVING 161

WEAVING THE RIGHT YARN, PURL STITCH WEAVING THE INDEX FINGER YARN

1 This method uses one yarn in each hand. On a purl stitch,

keeping the left index finger and yarn below the needles, wind
the right yarn under the right needle. Throw left yarn as usual to
1 Holding both yarns in the right hand, insert
the right needle into the stitch, wind both
yarns around the needle as if to knit.
Weaving
yarn
purl, return the right yarn back along its route to its original
position, and purl the stitch. Work the next stitch without weaving
the right yarn. Weave in as necessary to prevent long floats.
Weaving
2 Return index finger yarn to its original
position. Knit the stitch with the remaining
yarn. Keep weaving yarn above the needles
yarn when not weaving. Knit the next stitch without
(right)— weaving the index finger yarn in. Weave in
Working under
yarn (left) as necessary to prevent long floats.
needle
Working
yarn

[RIGHT HAND] WEAVING THE MIDDLE FINGER YARN WHILE KNITTING OR PURLING A STITCH

1 Hold both yarns in your right hand. Keep the middle finger yarn above
the work when not weaving in. To knit or purl, insert the right needle into
the stitch. Bring the middle finger yarn above the index finger yarn, across the
front of both needles to the left.
3 Throw the index finger yarn as if to knit or purl, then return the middle
finger yarn back along its route to its original position at the right back
of the work. Work the next stitch without weaving, temporarily lowering
the middle finger so the index finger yarn wraps around the middle finger
yarn. Weave in as necessary to prevent long floats.

2 Holding the yarn in place to the Hold both yarns

left of the needles, take it around in right hand Working
to the right behind the needles. yarn
(index)
Catch middle finger yarn with
left thumb and/or index finger

[LEFT HAND] WEAVING THE INDEX FINGER YARN WHILE KNITTING OR PURLING A STITCH

Working Always keep the weaving yarn (index

Needle passes over (middle) yarn finger) above the working yarn. Swap the
weaving (index) yarn yarns on your fingers at every color change.

1 Hold both the yarns in your left hand as

shown. Insert the right needle and wind both
yarns as if to knit.

2 Return the weaving yarn back between the

needles, keeping it above the working yarn.
Knit the stitch with the working yarn. Knit the
next stitch, making sure that the working yarn
goes behind the weaving yarn.
 162 COLORWORK

HOLDING BOTH YARNS IN THE LEFT HAND—WEAVING THE MIDDLE FINGER YARN

1 Here, the middle finger yarn is more

2 Bring the tip back over the middle finger
TECHNIQUES

awkward to weave than that on the index (weaving) yarn and catch the index finger
finger. Keep your middle finger below the work yarn. Draw it under the middle finger yarn
when not weaving. Insert the right needle into to make a new stitch. Work the next stitch
the stitch, passing under both yarns. without weaving. Weave to prevent long floats.

KNIT AND PURL FAIR ISLE

1 At the position where a purl stitch is to

be introduced, bring the working yarn
to the front and purl the required number
2 If you want to
maintain clear
color transitions,
of stitches. Take the yarn to the back and knit the first row
continue the pattern in knit stitch. Strand of a new color, purl
the yarns at the back of the knitting. the middle rows,
and knit the row
immediately before
a color change.

GARTER STITCH FAIR ISLE

1 Knit the first row (right side (RS)),

stranding on the back. Start the
second (wrong-side (WS)) row with
2 When it is time to
change color, swap
the yarn positions from
3 Work every row
of pattern twice,
knit all rows. At the
the non-working yarn at the front, front to back and end of every row,
and the working one at the back. continue, stranding the wrap the yarns
nonworking yarn at the around each other
front (WS) of the work. to secure them.

4 For smooth
transition when
changing or finishing
a color, do so on the
first of the two row
pattern (RS) row.
 TECHNIQUES FOR WEAVING 163

TEA-COZY STITCH

1 Twist yarns at the start of each

row. Pull the stranding yarn gently
throughout to slightly gather the knitting.
2 Next row. First
color to back,
second to front, knit
Knit eight stitches in the first color, first eight stitches.
stranding the second yarn at back. Wrong side First color to front,
Swap yarns and knit eight stitches of knitting second to back, knit
in the second color, stranding eight stitches in
the first yarn at back. Repeat second color. Repeat
along the row. along row, swapping
yarns from front to
back so that both
yarns strand on the
front. Repeat Steps
1 and 2.

TWO-STRAND LAYING-IN

1 Work stockinette stitch

in main yarn, all yarns
at back. When decorative
2 Do not
twist main
and decorative
3 On a purl row,
all yarns to front.
When decorative
yarns are required on yarns when yarns are required
the knit side, bring to they are to lie on the knit
front between needles. moved from side, take them back
Work the number of front to back. between the needles
stitches required in main and work the
yarn. Decorative yarns to number of stitches
back. Work in main yarn. required in main
yarn. Decorative
yarns to front
between needles.
Work in main yarn.

KNIT WEAVE

Shows on reverse of stockinette stitch.

Always work one plain stitch between
weaves. Twist the yarns at the start
of every row. The weaving yarn lies
alternately over and under the main yarn.
1 On a knit row. With both yarns at the back,
insert the needle to knit. Lay the weaving
yarn right to left between the needles. Knit
with the main yarn, making sure not to catch
the weaving yarn.
2 On a purl row. With both yarns at the
front, the weaving yarn below the main
yarn between weaves. Insert the needle
to purl, lay the weaving yarn right to left
between the needles. Purl with the main yarn.
 164 COLORWORK

INTARSIA
Here each yarn is worked separately and no strands are carried along the back.
TECHNIQUES

Each area of color in a row must have its own small ball of yarn. Cut short lengths
from the main balls and wind onto bobbins to prevent tangles.

INTARSIA TECHNIQUE

Right-slant color Left-slant color Vertical color

change: To avoid change: To avoid change: To avoid
holes, twist the holes, twist the holes, twist the
colors around each colors around colors around
other only on the each other only each other on
knit rows. on the purl rows. both knit and
purl rows.

TWO-COLOR CABLES

A B C A
4 With yarn C, and without twisting the
yarn, knit the three C stitches off the cable
needle and onto the right needle.

1 Wind sufficient small balls for intarsia.

Work two vertical stripes of yarn A with
three-stitch vertical stripes in yarns B and C
2 Knit yarn A to
cable position.
Slip the three yarn
3 Bring yarn B under
yarn A (this is the
twist) and take behind
5 Twist A under C and
knit stitches between
cables. On the next (purl)
6 Work seven
rows of stripes
to the next
in between (this is the six-stitch cable). Stop C stitches off the stitches on cable needle. row, when twisting B and crossover row.
after the purl row before the first crossover. left needle onto a Knit the three yarn B A the yarns will stretch Work crossover
cable needle and stitches off the left and diagonally at rear of as Steps 2–5,
take to the back. onto the right needle. crossover. Do not pull reversing yarns
too tightly. C and B.
 WORKING INTO LOWER STITCHES 165

TEXTURAL AND COLOR EFFECTS

With a simple stockinette and garter stitch base, prettily knotted, shaded, pulled,
and gathered effects can be achieved. Loop stitch variations offer versatile decorative edging

possibilities and careful yarn color and type choices will also enhance these techniques.

WORKING INTO LOWER STITCHES

The following techniques add texture to the knitted surface. Combinations of textural and
open lacelike knitting can be produced by dropping and unraveling stitches, while dip stitch
adds color. Pull-up stitch creates three-dimensional effects.

DOUBLE STITCH (ALSO CALLED BRIOCHE STITCH)

1 Insert right tip

from front to back
into the center of the
2 Wrap the yarn
around the tip
of the needle at
3 Pull the new loop
through to the
front and slide the
4 Knit the next stitch. Repeat
Steps 1–3 for each double
stitch. A plain stitch is always
stitch immediately the back. new loop and stitch worked between each double.
below the next stitch above it off the tip.
to be taken off the
left needle.

DROPPING AND UNRAVELING STITCHES AND ROWS

1 When you reach the desired

position, drop the stitch that you
wish to unravel and pull on it until it
2 Making sure you put the
needle beneath the unraveled
strands, insert the right needle
3 Knit the loose strands and the stitch
together. Knit the next stitch before
dropping another stitch.
unravels to the desired position. into the last stitch below that has
not unraveled.
 166 TEXTURAL AND COLOR EFFECTS

PULL-UP STITCH

1 Work stockinette stitch to the position

2 Slip the stitch knitwise onto the left
3 When the piece is completed the pull-up
TECHNIQUES

of the pull-up stitch, on a purl row. Reach needle and purl together with the stitch creates a tucked, raised effect.
the right needle down the purl side and insert following stitch on the needle. Space as
the tip into the top loop of the stitch to be required along the row.
pulled up.

DIP STITCH

Dip stitch can be vertical or angled

across the front or the reverse of knitting,
and is worked in the main color for
texture or in contrast for a color effect.
2 Holding second yarn at the back, catch the “dip” yarn with
the needle and pull through to the front. Pull enough
through, and make the rear strands loose enough so that the
main fabric is not distorted. On the next row, knit or purl the
“dip” stitch together with the following stitch. Repeat Steps 1

1 Knit to where the effect is to occur. Reach

the right needle tip down a number of rows
and insert the tip through a stitch (or the space
and 2 whenever a dip stitch is required.

between two stitches).

Needle
insertion
positions
 LOOP-PILE OR FUR KNITTING 167

LOOP-PILE OR FUR KNITTING

Loops can be added to the front or the back, usually working a plain row between.
Garter stitch or stockinette stitch make good base fabrics. You can adjust the density
by altering the frequency of the loops. Try beading the loops, or varying their length
for a surface effect.

LOOPS TO FRONT

1 At the position of the loop, with RS facing,

knit the next stitch but do not drop it
from the left needle. Bring the yarn forward
3 Insert the left needle into the last two
between the needles. Wind a loop around
your left thumb from back to front.
stitches on the right needle from the
front as in ssk (see p.136) and k2tog with
4 Repeat Steps 1–3 at regular intervals,
keeping the length of the loop consistent.
Gently tug the loops to tighten the stitches.
main yarn.

2 Yarn back. Knit

the original stitch
again, dropping it off
the left needle while
withdrawing your
thumb from the loop.

LOOPS TO BACK LONG LOOPS MADE WITH A RULER

1 At the position of the loop,

with RS facing, wind the
yarn around two left fingers
as well as the needle at the
back of the work and knit the
stitch. Do not drop the stitch
off the left needle.
2 Slip the new stitch loop
onto the left needle and
k2tog through the back of
the loops. Drop the loop
from your finger. Gently tug
the loops at end of the row
to tighten the stitches.
1 Worked on a WS row.
Hold a ruler at the back to
the right of the needles. Insert
the right needle into the next
stitch knitwise. Wind the yarn
clockwise around the right
needle, take it around the ruler,
and bring the yarn back under
the right needle.
2 Draw both loops on the
right needle through the
stitch on the left needle and
drop this off the left needle.
Slide the ruler out of loops at
the end of the row. On the next
row, k2tog into the back of the
two wraps made in the last row.
 168 TEXTURAL AND COLOR EFFECTS

DECORATIVE STITCHES
With a few uncomplicated moves, elaborate-looking effects are possible. Elongated stitches lighten
TECHNIQUES

fabric and are particularly effective in slippery ribbon yarns. In their simplest form these can be
worked in stripes but may also form more intricate effects, particularly in floral and lozenge
patterns. Picot point chains can be worked into filet lacelike fabrics or make delicate trims.

THREE–INTO-THREE STITCH

1 On a knit row, work to the position of the

decorative stitch. Bring the yarn to the front
and purl three stitches together, but do not take
2 With the yarn to the back, knit into
the three stitches that are still on the
left needle, but do not take the stitches
the stitches off the left needle. off the left needle.

3 With the yarn to the front, purl into the same three stitches again, then
slide the three stitches off the left needle. Take the yarn to the back and
knit any intervening stitches in the pattern.
4 The next row is usually a plain row, either knit or purl
depending on your overall pattern.

5 The three-into-three stitch forms a raised bobble on

the surface of the knitting, creating a pattern when
worked regularly.
 DECORATIVE STITCHES 169

ELONGATED STITCHES (ALSO CALLED DROP STITCH)

1 Whether on a knit or purl

stitch, this is written in
patterns as “yo” followed by the
2 Draw all the wraps through the stitch so that you
have them all on the right needle.

number of repeats. Insert the

needle into the stitch as normal,
and wrap the yarn around the
needle as many times as is stated.

3 On the next row, knit once into the first “leg” of the
multiwraps, and as you pass this stitch off the left
needle unwind all its wraps with it so that one long
4 Elongated stitches can be worked all the way across a row for a lacy
effect, or in isolation as part of an openwork pattern.

stitch is made from the excess yarn in the wraps.

 170 TEXTURAL AND COLOR EFFECTS
WRAPPED CLUSTERS
1 At the position of the cluster,
TECHNIQUES
slip the last five stitches on the
right needle all together purlwise
onto a cable needle.
PICOT CHAIN
1 Make a slip knot on the left needle.
2 Cast on two more stitches using
Knit-on cast-on (see p.92). Cast off two
stitches so there is one stitch remaining
on the right needle.
2 Wrap the yarn in a
3 Slip the cable needle stitches straight back onto the right
counterclockwise direction needle. Work the row as normal to the next cluster.
around the stitches, taking
it underneath the cable
needle. Wrap the yarn six
times, pulling it tight if you
want the cluster to gather
the stitches.
3 Slip the stitch purlwise onto the left
needle. Repeat Step 2 to make a chain
of the required length.
4 To make flower circles, work a five picot
chain and then insert the needle into the
base of the first picot, draw the loop through,
and cast off the last stitch.

KNITTED SMOCKING
1 Cast on a multiple
of eight stitches
plus three, and work a
purl three, knit one rib.
This is a right-side row.
Knit an even number
of rows in rib until the
position of the first
smocking is reached.
4 Work three rows of rib, then
repeat Steps 2 and 3 but
work the first 12 stitches before
introducing the smocking yarn.
2 Work eight stitches of the rib. Slip
the last five stitches on the right
needle together onto a cable needle.
Bring the smocking yarn from the
back to the front between the right
needle and the cable needle, leaving
a 4in (10cm) tail at the back. Wind
this yarn twice clockwise around
the stitches on the cable needle,
leaving it at the back of
the work.
DECORATIVE STITCHES 171
3 Slip the stitches together off
the cable needle back onto the
right needle. Repeat Steps 2 and 3
across the row, stranding the
smocking yarn across the back
of the work and cutting with
a 4in (10cm) tail at the end.
5 Continue to work smocking alternating the start of eight or
12 stitches with three rows between. When complete, secure
the ends of the smocking yarn up one edge. Gently draw up
each row of smocking, easing the ribs together until finally
securing the smocking yarn at the other edge.
 172 TEXTURAL AND COLOR EFFECTS

SHADOW KNITTING

1 The design chart shows the

2 This chart has to be “exploded,” and drawn on a knitting
TECHNIQUES

finished effect. chart that is four times as long as the original.

20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
10 10
9 9
8 8
7 7
6 6
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

3 The first row of the exploded

chart is always left blank. On
the second row, draw the main
(pink) stitches from row 1 of the
original chart.
4 Leave three rows blank, then
draw the main (pink) stitches
from row 2 of the original chart;
continue in this manner to the
final row (row 10).
5 Go back to the beginning of the exploded chart, and on the
middle row of the three blank rows, draw the contrast (gray)
stitches from row 1 of the original chart. Continue up the
exploded chart, matching the original chart stitches to the
middle of the blank rows.

20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
40 40 40 40

30 30 30 30

20 20 20 20

10 10 10 10

20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
 DECORATIVE STITCHES 173

6 Annotate the chart in your

own way to show the purl
and knit stitches. Color every 40
20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
40 KEY
two rows in alternating colors, Purl
starting with two rows of main
color. This example shows Knit
purl stitches as white to
help read the chart, but Main color A
work them in whichever
color stripe they fall in. Contrast color B

30 30

20 20

10 10

color B

color A
20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

7 Cast on 20 stitches and, working from the chart, knit the

first row in color A. Work the second row in A, purling the
white squares and knitting the colored ones.
8 Change to color B, knit one plain row and then work as row 4 of
the chart, purling the blank squares and knitting the colored ones.
Repeat the color sequence of two rows of each color as you follow the
chart upward.
 174

STRUCTURAL EFFECTS
TECHNIQUES

Structural knitting techniques are challenging and satisfying to work and can be used
in combination with varied colors and textural yarns. Entrelac squares offer scope for color

choices while pleats, gathering, and doubling can add style details to garments. Tubular

knitting is an interesting technique and, along with bias knitting, may inspire new ideas.

ENTRELAC
Here, knitted squares create a diagonal basketweave effect. Squares can be worked in stockinette
stitch, garter stitch, cables, lace, or textural stitches. Each square has twice as many rows as stitches
and alternating series of squares are worked in opposite directions. All the stitches for one series
are on the needle at the same time, although the squares are worked individually. A line of short
row triangles at the start, finish, and each side, create straight edges.

1 This example makes three eight-stitch squares. In color A, loosely cast

on 24 stitches using Knit-on method (see p.92). Knit two stitches and
turn work. Purl one stitch, slip one purlwise, turn. This slip stitch makes
2 Repeat these two rows,
knitting into one more cast-on
stitch on the left needle at the
Cast-on
picking up in Step 7 easier. stitches end of each knit row, purling
back and slipping the last stitch
purlwise. Finish after knitting
eight stitches, do not turn
(16 stitches remain).

Completed
first triangle

3 Work the next triangle as in Steps 1 and 2 over the following eight
stitches, and the third triangle over the final eight stitches. There are
now three triangles on the needle.
4 Left side triangle. With the wrong side (WS) facing, join in color B and
purl two stitches, turn, knit two, turn. Purl into the front and back of the
edge stitch (see p.128)—this shapes the edge. Purl the last stitch in color B
together with the first stitch in color A (p2tog, see p.135) on the right needle.

p2tog
 ENTRELAC 175

5 Repeat Step 4, purling one more stitch for each repeat and knitting back
to the edge each time. Stop after purling into the front and back, purling
five and purling color B and color A together. Do not turn the work. Leave
6 With WS facing and the yarn at the
front, insert the right needle from the
back to the front into the edge stitches
this completed edge triangle on the right needle. and pick up and purl eight stitches evenly
along the free edge of the first triangle.
7 Turn the work and knit
seven stitches, slip one
purlwise, turn work. Purl
seven, then purl the last
stitch in color B together
with the first stitch in
color A (p2tog, see p.135) on
the right needle. This joins
the new square to the old
triangle. Turn the work.

8 Repeat Step 7 seven more times, but do not

turn the work after the last row—all the
stitches of the first square are now on the left
9 To work the right edge triangle, with WS facing,
pick up the edge as in Step 6. Work every knit row,
slipping the end stitch purlwise, p2tog at the end of all
needle. Work the next square as in Steps 6–8. but the first purl row. One stitch remains.

Right edge
triangle

Base triangle

10 To work the right edge square, join in color A. With

the right side (RS) facing, slip the first stitch onto the
right needle. Pick up and knit seven stitches along the edge
of the right-hand square (eight stitches on needle). Purl
seven, slip one purlwise, turn.
12 Work the finished triangles
(these follow a series with
edge triangles—see Steps 4–9). In the
appropriate color, work as in Step 10,
purling eight in the final instruction.
Turn. Knit seven, work an ssk as in
Step 11. Turn, purl six, p2tog at the end
to create the flat top edge. Turn, knit
six and ssk as before.

13 Continue working ssk and

11
p2tog each time until the
Knit seven. Work
triangle is complete. Repeat for all
ssk with the next
of the triangles. Pull the final stitch
two stitches (one of each
through itself to finish.
color). Repeat the last two
rows to the end of the
join. Work Steps 10 (omit
slip, pick up eight sts
Right instead) and 11 for all
edge squares. Steps 4–11 make
Previous series triangle
one whole pattern repeat.
square
 176 STRUCTURAL EFFECTS

PLEATS
To make a pattern for pleats, fold a sheet of graph paper alternately away from and
TECHNIQUES

toward you along lines at 10- and 5-square intervals. Each square represents a stitch.
Use the pattern to count the stitches required to make the visible face, underside, and
turn-back of each pleat. Add one stitch at each fold—slipped on the right-side rows,
purled on the wrong-side rows, or purled every row. Use the same method for all folds.

KNITTING PLEATS

First stitch of visible

face of pleat
Turn-back Underside Visible face

1 This example
creates two 2 Add markers
as you work.
3 Purl one complete row. Repeat to the
required length, finishing after a purl row. 5 Slip one stitch from the rear dpn to
the right needle. Knit the first stitch on
the left needle onto the right needle, and
left-facing five-stitch
pleats. Cast on 44
stitches (this includes
First row: k10, p1,
k5, p1, k10, p1,
k5, p1, k10.
4 When the pleats are completed, cast off
four stitches knitwise (see p.106). Slip the
next five stitches purlwise (including fold
pass both stitches on the right needle over
the first one and needle tip, one by one.

an extra four stitches stitch) onto a double-pointed needle (dpn).

for fold lines). Slip the next six stitches purlwise (including
the fold stitch) onto another dpn. Turn the
needles to fold the pleat.

6 Slip one stitch from the front dpn and one

from the rear dpn onto the right needle. Knit
the first stitch on the left needle and pass the
three stitches over one by one. Repeat this
step until all pleats are cast off.

Left needle

Double-
pointed
needles

7 Cast off remaining

stitches as normal.
 GATHERING AND BLOUSING 177

GATHERING AND BLOUSING

Gathering removes multiple stitches evenly along a row, and blousing (also called
doubling) adds stitches in the same way. Another form of gathering can be created by
working multiple rows of rib on smaller needles preceded and followed by nonrib
knitting. Blousing can be used after a cuff rib to give fullness to a sleeve.

GATHERING

1 To calculate even gathering, decide how many stitches are to be

removed, and divide the stitches on the needle by this number. For
example, if you cast on 30 stitches and wish to remove 10 stitches evenly,
2 To make a fuller gather, try k2tog all across the row, or knit
three stitches together. You can even work two consecutive
k2tog, p2tog rows. To create a gathered edge, knit two or more
the sum is 30 ÷ 10 = 3. Therefore, one stitch must be decreased in every stitches together as you cast off.
three stitches. To do this, knit one stitch, then knit two stitches together
(k2tog). Repeat along the row.

BLOUSING

1 To calculate blousing, use the same formula

as for gathering (above), but remember that
blousing adds stitches. If the answer is three, then
three stitches must be made out of every one stitch.
To do this, knit into the front, the back, and the
front again of each stitch.

2 To use both blousing and gathering to work a

horizontal ruffle, knit one row, knitting into the
front and the back of each stitch, and the next row,
purling into the front and the back of each stitch.
Knit between 16 and 20 rows in stockinette stitch.
Knit one row k2tog across the row, and then p2tog
across the next row. Continue in stockinette stitch.
 178 STRUCTURAL EFFECTS

BIAS KNITTING
This method creates diagonal-shaped pieces, sloping left or right. Chevron knitting
TECHNIQUES

(see p.57) is created by working opposing bias panels in one piece. Increasing into
lower rows or working increases tightly can force bias knitting to curve attractively.

BIAS KNITTING—STRAIGHT AND CURVED

Cast on 20 stitches. At the start of the first knit row, To slant to the right, knit into the front
slip the first and second stitches one by one onto the and the back of the first stitch, knit to two
right needle, insert the left needle into the front, and from the end, and k2tog.
knit them together (ssk, see p.136). Knit the row to
one before the end stitch, knit into the front and the
back of the edge stitch. Purl one row. Repeat the knit
row. This piece of knitting will slant to the left.

Ssk K2tog

Kfb
Kfb

LL1 To add neat, decorative

edges slanting to the left,
knit two stitches, then
work the ssk decrease.

Knit to three stitches

from the end. Insert the
tip of the left needle
from front to back into
the left side of the stitch
two rows below the just-
completed stitch on the
right needle. Knit this stitch. Ssk
This makes a left-lifted
increase (LL1; see p.129).
Knit to the end. Purl the
next row and repeat the ssk
and LL1 on each knit row.
 TUBULAR KNITTING 179

TUBULAR KNITTING
Although commonly associated with circular knitting, tubular knitting, sometimes called
double knitting, can be worked on straight needles by slipping every other stitch. To practice,
work with two colors so that you can see which stitch belongs to which side of the knitting,
as you work both sides at the same time. Tubular fabric knits up thick, firm, and flat. You may
need to work with a smaller needle than normal.

A B

1 Cast on an even number of stitches (not counting the slip

knot) twice the required fabric width in the following variation
of Tubular cast-on (see p.102). Use colors A and B, and tie the slip
knot with both colors at the end of the threads.

2 Work with the main threads so they will end up at the tip of
the needle ready to knit. Put the front layer color (A) over your
index finger and the back layer color (B) over your thumb—the
colors will automatically alternate as you work the cast-on. Twist
the yarns before knitting the first row.

3 With color B, knit a B stitch, then bring the

yarn to the front, and slip one A stitch purlwise,
take the yarn to the back, and repeat along the
4 With color B, purl the B stitches of
the last row, taking the yarn to the back
to slip the A stitches purlwise. Bring the yarn
row. Drop the slip knot and tie the ends together to the front and repeat along the row.
under the needle.

5 With color A, purl the A stitches, take

the yarn to the back, and slip the B
stitches purlwise. Bring the yarn to the
front and repeat along the row.

B side

6 With color A, knit the purled A stitches of

the last row, bringing the yarn forward to
slip the B stitches. Using two colors in this way
results in open sides. To work two colors with
closed edges, use double-pointed needles.
Start when both yarns are at the same end.
Work Step 3, Step 5, Step 4, and Step 6 in that
order, twisting the yarns every two rows.
A side
 180

SHORT ROWS
TECHNIQUES

Rows of knitting do not necessarily have to be knitted end to end. Knitting short
rows, or “partial knitting,” involves knitting two rows across some of the stitches, thereby adding

rows in only one part of the fabric. It is popular for creating smooth edges in shoulder shaping,

curving hems, making darts, and turning sock heels. It is most commonly used on stockinette stitch.

PREVENTING HOLES
In most shaping applications a concealed turn is required and there are at least five ways to
work this: the “wrap” or “tie” (easiest and neat); the “over” (loosest); and the “catch” (neatest)
are shown here. Garter stitch, as shown in the 3-D ball, does not require wrapping.

WRAP OR TIE TO CLOSE HOLES

1 On a knit row: at the turn

position, slip the next stitch
purlwise onto the right needle
2 On a purl row: at the
(see p.122), bring the yarn to the
front. Return the slip stitch to
the left needle, take the yarn
back. Turn and purl the short
row. Repeat the wrap at each
mid-row turn.
turn, slip the next stitch
purlwise, take the yarn to the
back. Slip stitch the back, bring
the yarn to the front. Turn and
work the knit short row.
Repeat the wrap at each
mid-row turn.
3 When working across all
stitches on completion
of the short row: at the wrap,
insert the right needle up
through the front (knit) or
back (purl) of the wrap.
Work the wrap together
with the next stitch.

OVER TO CLOSE HOLES

1 Knit or purl to the turn position. Take the

yarn to the other side of the work and turn the
work. Bring the yarn over (not around) the needle
2 When knitting across all stitches on completion
of the short row, knit each yarn over together with
the next stitch. When purling across all stitches on
to work the next stitch back along the short row. completion of the short row, slip the yarn over and
stitch knitwise, one by one, to the right needle. Return
both stitches to the left needle and purl together
through the back of the loops (ssp).
 PREVENTING HOLES 181

CATCH TO CLOSE HOLES

1 On either a knit or a purl

row, work a short row.
Turn the work, slip the first
stitch purlwise (see p.122),
and work back along the
short row.
Insert right needle one row
below row just worked
2 When knitting a completion row
(knitting is temporarily reversed, since
this makes this step easier), insert the right
needle down through the strand between
the first and second stitches on the left
needle as shown. Lift onto the left needle.
Left needle
3 Turn the work again
and knit the picked-
up loop together with
4 If the completion row is purl, insert
the left needle upward through the
strand between the first and second
the next stitch on the two rows below the right needle.
left needle. Stretch this loop, then drop it. Slip
the next stitch from the left to the
right needle. Pick up the dropped
loop again with the left needle.
Return the slipped stitch
Left needle to the left needle.
Purl these
two together.

Right
needle

SHAPING: ADAPTING A CAST-OFF SHOULDER TO SHORT ROW SHAPING

1 This example adapts an existing left shoulder

shaping worked in stockinette stitch. The
shoulder is 24 stitches wide and the original
2 Cast on
24 stitches
and work to
3 Turn the work. Purl
to eight stitches
from the end and work
instruction is to cast off eight stitches every the shoulder a wrap (slip the next
alternate row. These cast-offs can be substituted shaping. Ignore stitch purlwise, take the
by working short rows with eight fewer stitches the first cast-off yarn back, return the
every alternate row. instruction, and slip stitch, and bring
knit a row. the yarn forward, see
opposite). Turn and knit
to the end.

4 Purl to 16 stitches
from the end,
work the wrap, and
5 Purl across all
the stitches, picking
up the wraps by slipping
turn. Knit to the end them onto the left
(eight stitches remain needle and purling
on the needle). together with the next
stitch (see opposite).
Either cast off all the
stitches, or put them
onto a stitch holder
for grafting later.
 182 SHORT ROWS

SHORT ROW CIRCULAR MEDALLION

This example is in garter

1 Cast on 16 stitches
4 Turn the work and knit 14 stitches. Bring the yarn
TECHNIQUES

stitch, but medallions can in color A with a to the front. Slip the last two stitches on the left
be knitted in other stitches. Provisional cast-on needle purlwise onto the right needle. Cut color A yarn
There is no need to pick up (see p.101). with a 4in (10cm) tail (yarn is part of the way along a
the wraps in garter stitch. row). One segment of the circle is complete.

2 Knit 14 stitches,
wrap the yarn by
3 Repeat Step 2,
knitting two rows
of 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2
slipping the next stitch stitches. The yarn
purlwise, turn. Take the should be at the
yarn to the back. Slip longer edge of the
the stitch back. Knit 14 segment at this point.
stitches to the end.

5 Hold the needle with the stitches in your left hand,

change to color B, knit 16 stitches. Repeat Steps 2–5 in
B, swapping to color A at Step 5.
6 Work eight segments, alternating colors A and B.
Finish by placing the stitches on a holder (see p.107)
after Step 5 on the final segment. Graft the seam (see
p.215) and sew in the yarn ends to complete.
 RUFFLES 183

RUFFLES
By working a straight band vertically at the same time as working short rows, ruffles can
be built up. The fullness of the ruffle is dictated by the number of times the short rows
are worked compared to the rows of the vertical band. Varying the stitch, as shown in
edge ruffles (below), can add extra effect to the finished ruffle.

SHORT ROW EDGE RUFFLES

Garter
3 Purl 13 stitches. At the
position of the wraps,
insert the right needle
stitch
into the back of the wraps
edge
from underneath and slip
all onto the left needle.
Purl the wraps together
with the next stitch. Purl
to the end. This step is
important because it
adds fullness to the
finished ruffle.

4 Purl six, knit 14

stitches. Repeat Steps
1–4 until you have the
required length of garter
stitch straight edge.

1 Working over 20 stitches, purl 14,

work a wrap (see p.180), turn and
knit 14 stitches back to the edge.
2 Repeat Step 1
twice.

VERTICAL RUFFLES INSET INTO FABRIC

1 This example uses

24 stitches. The
ruffle is worked over
3 Knit eight
the middle eight
stitches. Knit 16, wrap
(see p.180), and turn.
stitches,
wrap, and turn.
5 Purl 24 doing pick-up on the other side
of the ruffle, as in Step 4. This completes
two rows of main fabric and four rows of
6 Repeat from knit instruction in Step 1
to the end of Step 5 for the required
number of side panel rows. Group vertically
Repeat Step 2. the inset ruffle. for greater effect.
4 Knit 16
stitches,

2 Purl eight stitches,

wrap, and turn.
picking up
the wraps
(see p.180).
 184 SHORT ROWS

3-D KNITTING
Planned use of short rows can make your knitting take on a 3-D form. Peaks created
TECHNIQUES

in this way can be left open or sewn together at the base. Before joining, these can be
padded to create a closed decorative “pocket.” Ungraduated short rows flaps can also
be sewn up, padded, and joined. Complete 3-D shapes can also be worked.

SHORT ROW BALL

This example is in garter stitch and there is no wrapping

included. If wrapping is required, follow the method
shown in Short row circular medallion (see p.182).
3 Knit 13 stitches, turn the
work, take the yarn to the
back. Repeat this step, knitting
4 Knit seven stitches, turn the
work, take the yarn to the back.
Repeat this step, knitting 5 stitches.
11 stitches.

1 Cast on 20 stitches
in color A.
5 Knit four stitches, bring the yarn
to the front. Slip all remaining
stitches (nine) on the left needle
purlwise onto the right needle. Cut
the yarn, leaving a 4in (10cm) tail.
15 stitches
completed

Eight more
stitches to slip

2 Knit 19 stitches, turn the work,

bring the yarn to the back.
Repeat this step, knitting one less
stitch on each row until 15 stitches
have been knitted. Turn the work,
bring the yarn to the back.
Color A

Color B

Color A

6 Repeat Steps 2–5 in

color B. 7 Work eight segments in alternate colors to complete the ball. Cast
off or work a provisional cast-off (see p.101). Sew in the mid-row
ends and gently pull the top and bottom threads to neaten the ends.
Stuff with a suitable material and either sew together with mattress
stitch (see p.214), or graft provisional open stitches to the cast-on edge.
 3-D KNITTING 185

SHORT ROW PEAKS

1 Decide the width of the peak—for this

example, it is nine stitches and there
are eight stitches on both sides of it (25
2 Purl nine stitches,
turn. 3 Knit eight stitches, turn.
Including a turn after each
row, purl seven, knit six, purl
stitches on the needle). At the position five, knit four, purl three, knit
of the peak, knit 17 stitches, turn. two, purl one.

4 Knit two stitches, turn. Increasing

in the reverse order to Step 3 and
turning at the end of each row, work
5 Knit 17 stitches, turn, and purl 25 stitches.
There may be small “steps” visible along
the edge of the peak; this is part of the short
until the last row completed is purl row effect.
nine stitches. Turn.
 186

CIRCULAR KNITTING
TECHNIQUES

Circular knitting, or knitting in the round, is worked on a circular needle or with a

set of four or five double-pointed needles. With the right side always facing, the knitting is worked

around and around to form a tube or a flat shape (a medallion). A circular needle is easy to master,

while working with double-pointed needles is best suited to knitters with intermediate skills.

KNITTING TUBES
For those who don’t enjoy stitching seams, knitting seamless tubes is a real plus. Large tubes
can be worked on long circular needles, for example, for the body of a sweater or a bag. Short
circular needles are used for seamless neckbands, armhole bands, and hats. Double-pointed
needles are used for smaller items, such as mittens and socks.

WORKING WITH A CIRCULAR KNITTING NEEDLE

1 Cast on the required number

of stitches. Make sure that
the stitches are untwisted and
Stitch
marker
2 Hold the needle ends in
your hands and bring the
right needle up to the left needle
Knit first stitch
of first round
tightly
they all face inward, then slip to work the first stitch. Knit
a stitch marker onto the end of around and around on the
the right needle to mark the stitches. When the stitch marker
beginning of the round. is reached, slip it from the left
needle to the right needle.

JOINING THE CIRCLE OF STITCHES

3 If you are working

2
a stockinette stitch
This is a neat Slip the first cast-on stitch
tube on a circular needle,
way of closing onto the right needle next
the right side of the work
the circle in to last cast-on stitch. Place the
will always be facing you
circular knitting. join marker after this stitch.
and every round will be

1
a knit round.
Cast on
the required
number of stitches
plus one stitch.

3 Knit the round, and when

you reach the end, knit the
last two stitches before the
marker together (this will be
the first cast-on stitch and the
extra stitch).
 KNITTING TUBES 187

KNITTING A MÖBIUS LOOP

3 Join the circle,

maintaining the twist,
and knit the round. The first
few rounds can be tricky but
once there are a few rows
and the twist is established
it becomes easier.

1 Using a Long-tail cast-on (see

p.95) cast-on enough stitches to
work a circle on a short circular
2 Deliberately twist the stitches
around the wire so that there
is one clear twist visible, but the
needle. Knit the first round but end stitches are facing each other
stop before joining the circle. with the loops facing inward.

4 Continue until the loop is as deep as required. Cast off.

A deep MÖbius loop makes a great hair band.

5 If using the Magic loop

technique (see p.188),
moving the twist to the stitches
on the right end of the needle
for the first few rounds makes
working them easier.
 188 CIRCULAR KNITTING

“MAGIC LOOP” KNITTING—WORKING A SMALL TUBE ON A CIRCULAR CABLE NEEDLE

1 Cast on a small
4 Hold both needle tips with
TECHNIQUES

number of stitches your left hand and pull the

onto a long circular right needle upward through
cable needle using any the stitches so that they slide
method, but do not onto the cable. The right
join the circle of needle tip needs to be
stitches. Slide the
stitches down onto
the cable.
3 Slide one group of
stitches onto each
point, and position the
sufficiently free to be
able to work the left
stitches, but the
needle tips and yarn stitches must not
as normal. Make sure join the end of
the stitches are not the other group
twisted; the cast-on of stitches.

2 Find the middle

point of the
stitches and pull
loop should lie under
the needle.

the cable through the

gap between them.

5 Loop the cable around and knit the

first stitch tightly to join the circle,
or use one of the other methods shown
6 The left needle is now
empty. Pull the cable
backward through the
in this chapter. Continue to knit the first stitches on the cable so
half of the stitches off the left needle. that they slide onto the left
needle tip. Repeat Steps 4–6.

KNITTING TWO TUBES AT ONCE ON TWO CIRCULAR NEEDLES

This technique makes working pairs of

tubular knitting, such as socks and gloves,
seem quicker. Before you start, designate
2 Push all of the stitches at once to
the other end of both needles.

your needles A and B, and make a note of

which is which. Needle B 3 Close the round by using a
blunt-ended yarn needle to pass
the short thread through the stitch
by the long tail, and tying both ends
in a tight knot.
Needle A

1 Cast the stitches for Tube 1 onto

needle A using Double cast-on
(see p. 95). Slide to opposite end.
Divide stitches equally by
slipping them purlwise
onto needle B.
Needle A Needle B
 KNITTING TUBES 189

Put point protector

on needle A 4 Cast on Tube 2
with the second
ball of yarn as Step 1.
Using the empty end
of needle B, divide
them onto needle A,
and close the round
Tube 1 as before.
7 Hold both needles in your left hand,
needle A (with the protector) should
be slightly behind B. The working yarn
9 Pick up the free end
of needle B with your
right hand and knit the
should hang between both needles so stitches off needle B in
that it is in the correct position and your left hand. Pinch the
does not make an extra stitch. tip of needle B to the
The second yarn should lie over cable of needle A to
and behind the needles so it avoid a gap at the join.
won’t tangle. Pinch

5 Slide Tube 2 (with together

the working end
away from the needle
tips) onto the cables.
Place a marker on
Needle A each tube at the first
stitch by the working
Needle B yarn. This marks the
start of each round. Needle B

8 Pull needle A upward

so that the stitches
Needle B
6 Lay the needles
parallel and check
that both of your
slide onto the cable; keep
both the cable of A and
the point of B in your
working ends of yarn left hand.
face in the same
direction, one being
at the tips of the
Cable of A
needles and one
being halfway along
on the cable.
Tube 2

10 Complete the first side

of Tube 1. The needles
now face each other as shown.
Slide Tube 1 down onto the
cable, keeping the end of
needle B in your right hand.

Needle B Needle B
Needle B Needle A

13
Needle B Swap point protectors
Needle A
to needle B. Position
needles as in Step 7, but
reverse the needle positions
so that B is on the left.
15
Pick up the free end of needle A
with your right hand and knit
the stitches off the needle A tip in your
left hand. Complete the second side of
Tube 2, then slide this down onto the

11 12
cable. Needles are facing as in Step 10.

14
Slide Tube 2 up to the tips Turn your work so that the
Work as in Step 8 but

of the other end of needle B.
Holding this end in your left hand,
knit the first side of Tube 2 with
needle B.
16
working end of the yarn is
pull needle B upward. Slide Tube 1 up to the tips at the
on the tip in your left hand, and
other end of needle A and knit
slide a tube to each end. You will
the second side of Tube 1 with needle A.
see that you are halfway around
Repeat Steps 7–16, swapping point
both tubes.
protectors as shown.
 190 CIRCULAR KNITTING

HELIX KNITTING
TECHNIQUES

A
D

C
B

1 Cast on a quarter of the total number of stitches required in each

color, (for example, if 80 are stitches required, cast on 20 in A, 20 in
B, 20 in C, and 20 in D). Leave the yarns attached.
2 Without turning the needle, start to knit the color A stitches off the
left needle using the working thread of D. At color joins, do not pull
the new thread tight but keep the stitches even, otherwise the stripes
will become distorted. Knit until all A stitches are worked.

3 Pick up the working thread

of A and knit the next color.
Continue to the end of each
color, picking up the yarn
above the next color.
4 After one round, there will be
no yarn waiting at the end of
the last color, so work to the point
at which the next yarn is attached,
pick it up, and continue as in Step 3.

5 To work on double-pointed needles, using A, cast on, knit one round,

and join circle. Next round, knit a quarter of the stitches in A, followed
by a quarter in the other three colors, one after the other on the next
round. Continue as in Steps 2–4.

WORKING WITH A SET OF FOUR DOUBLE-POINTED NEEDLES
1 Your knitting instructions will specify how
many double-pointed needles to use for
the project you are making—either a set of
four or a set of five. When working with a set
of four double-pointed needles, first cast on all
of the stitches required onto a single needle.
WORKING WITH A SET OF FIVE DOUBLE-POINTED NEEDLES
1 Cast on, distribute the stitches, and
position a stitch marker as for working
with four needles, but distribute the stitches
over four needles.
Stitch
marker Make sure
stitches are
not twisted
1 4
2 3
2 Slip some of the stitches off onto
two other needles—your knitting
pattern will tell you precisely how
many to place on each needle. Make
sure that the bottoms of the cast-on
loops are all facing inward.
Make sure
stitches are
not twisted
2 Use the fifth needle to knit. Knit
the first stitch tightly to close the
gap between the first cast-on stitch
and the last.
Knit with
fifth needle
1 5
2 3
KNITTING TUBES 191
3 Place a stitch marker between the first
and second stitches on the first needle
to mark the beginning of the round. Then
pull the first and third needles close
together and start to knit with the fourth
needle. Knit around and around in this
way as for knitting with a circular needle.
Knit first stitch
on each
needle tightly
to avoid holes
Stitch
marker
3
1
3 When all of the stitches on
the first needle have been
knit off onto the spare needle,
use this empty needle to work
the stitches on the second
needle. Continue around and
around like this, slipping the
stitch marker from the left
needle to the right needle
when it is reached.
4
 192 CIRCULAR KNITTING

SPIRAL KNITTING

1 Cast on 24 stitches and

3 On the next row, purl the
TECHNIQUES

divide equally between three first stitch, then knit four,

double-pointed needles (eight on purl four around the complete
each, see p.191). round, finishing with purl three
to meet the first purl stitch.

2 Join the circle

and add a
marker as you work
the first round as
follows: knit four
stitches, purl four
stitches, repeat for
a complete round.
Work another
three rounds.

4 This has moved the

whole rib one stitch over.
Continue moving the rib one
5 This technique
is particularly
successful as jewelry
stitch in the same direction when it incorporates
every four rows as you work fancy and sparkly
the required length. yarns or beading.
 KNITTING MEDALLIONS 193

KNITTING MEDALLIONS
Medallions are flat shapes knitted from the center outward. They are worked on a set
of four or five double-pointed needles. Although the steps below show a square being
worked, the technique is the same for knitting circles, hexagons, octagons, and so on.

WORKING A SIMPLE SQUARE

1 Cast on eight stitches onto a

single needle and distribute two
stitches onto each of four needles.
Using a fifth needle to knit with,
knit through the back loop of each
stitch on all four needles.
2 On round 2, knit into the front and
back of each stitch (see p.128).
There are now a total of 16 stitches on
Yarn
coming the needles—four on each needle.
from ball

Completed Completed
first round round 2

Yarn tail

3 Knit each stitch in round 3. On round 4,

knit into the front and the back of the first
and last stitches on each needle. For rounds
4 Continue in this way, increasing eight
stitches in every alternate round,
until the square is the desired size.
5–8, repeat rounds 3 and 4 twice.

Finished size

Completed
round 8

5 Cast off in the usual way, leaving a long

yarn tail. Using a blunt-ended yarn
needle, pass the yarn tail under the top of
the first cast-off stitch and back though the
center of the fastened-off stitch. Darn in the
yarn ends on the wrong side of the work,
using the yarn end at the center to pull the
hole together, if necessary.
 194

REVERSE, TWICE KNIT, AND TUNISIAN

TECHNIQUES

Reverse knitting is simply a quicker way of working. All of these techniques

produce a quite different, firmer, and less stretchy result than traditional knitting. In some

cases the results can look more like crochet than knitting and can be used for a similar effect.

REVERSE KNITTING
Reverse, or backward, knitting is useful for narrow areas when frequent turning is otherwise
required. When working reverse knit stitches on stockinette stitch, every row is worked from
the right side. Reverse knitting purl stitches is less common.

REVERSE KNIT STITCH

1 At the end of a knit row, do not turn

the work.

2 Insert the left needle into the back

of the first stitch on the right needle.
Bring the yarn forward between the
needles from left to right.

3 Slide the right needle along the left

needle and slip the loop over the left
tip, then slide the right needle down and
out of the old stitch.

REVERSE PURL STITCH

1 At the end of a purl row, do not turn the

work. Keep the yarn at the front.

2 Insert the left needle from the back to the

front through the left leg of the first stitch
on the right needle and in front of the right
needle. Take the yarn in a counterclockwise
circle and between the needles from right to left.

3 Slide the left needle through the stitch

backward under the right needle to catch
the loop. Slide the left needle to the right to
slip the old stitch over the right tip.
 TWICE KNIT KNITTING 195

TWICE KNIT KNITTING

Twice knit is not stretchy, which makes it very dense, and it should be worked on larger
needles than normal for the yarn. The stitches will work out wider than the rows unless
larger needles are used, and the work will be very slow to grow.

1 Cast on with Twice knitted

cast-on (see p.103). 3 Insert the right needle into both the
remaining stitch and the following one
on the left needle and knit them together.
4 Every row is knitted the same way. The
resulting fabric is firm, slow to unravel or
snag, and can be cut much like a woven fabric.

2
Repeat this step to the end of the row.
Knit two stitches
together. Drop only
the first stitch, leaving
the second on the
left needle.

TUNISIAN KNITTING
Tunisian knitting results in a flat, dense, and thick fabric that looks a little like crochet. It can
be worked on standard needles, although it is usually worked loosely or on slightly larger
needles than normal for the yarn. The first row is always a wrong-side row.

1 Slip one stitch knitwise, then make a

yarn over from the front to the back,
taking the yarn around the needle and to
2 The last yarn over will
be loose, so hold it at the
front with your left thumb.
3 Work the next row by knitting each yarn over and stitch
together through the back of the loop (k2 tbl). To start the
row, insert the right needle into the back of the first stitch and
the front. Slip the next stitch knitwise, Turn the work, keeping your yarn over on the left needle, bring yarn-over thread around
yarn over. Repeat this slip and yarn over thumb and the yarn over in the right needle (see p.137) and knit yarn over and first stitch
along the row. place (it will now be at the together. Repeat steps 1–3.
back of the work).

Slip stitch
4 It is easier to work this k2 tbl
by inserting the right needle
tip into the front of the stitch
and yarn over, and then sliding
it backward over the left needle
shaft before knitting into the
back of both.

5 Cast off with a larger than

usual needle, by knitting
three stitches and passing the
first over the second two. Knit
another stitch and repeat the
pass over. Repeat along the edge.
 196

FINISHING DETAILS
TECHNIQUES

Finishing, as its name suggests, is the final stage of a project. Details that will make
your knitting easier to assemble and look more professional, such as adding borders, hems,

pockets, and fastenings, can, with a little planning, be incorporated into the actual knitting itself.

PICKING UP STITCHES
Picking up edges is a technique that even experienced knitters can find challenging. Careful
preparation and lots of practice will help. Try it out on small pieces of knitting to perfect the
technique before moving on to more important projects.

ALONG A CAST-ON/OFF EDGE ALONG ROW-ENDS

With right side facing, insert the

needle in the first stitch. Leaving
a long tail, wrap the yarn around
the tip and pull it through, as if
knitting a stitch. Continue, picking
up and knitting one stitch through
every cast-on or cast-off stitch.
1 On lightweight or medium-weight yarn,
pick up about three stitches for every four
row-ends. To begin, mark out the row-ends Remove
2 Pick up and knit the stitches
as for picking up stitches
along a cast-on edge (left),
on the right side of the knitting, placing a pin before inserting the tip through the
pin on the first of every four row-ends as picking up center of the edge stitches.
shown here. stitch Skip every fourth row-end.
Skipped row-ends
4 3 2 1 4 3 2 1 4 3 2 1

WITH A CROCHET HOOK TIPS FOR PICKING UP STITCHES

1 Use a hook that fits through the stitches. With

right side facing, insert the hook through the
first stitch, wrap the hook behind and around the
Yarn coming
from ball
• A yarn in a contrasting color is used in the step-by-step
instructions for picking up stitches to clearly illustrate the
process. You can hide picking-up imperfections, however, if
yarn from left to right, and pull through. you use a matching yarn. For a contrasting border, switch to
Yarn the new color on the first row of the border, providing this is
tail a plain row.
• Always pick up and knit stitches with the right side of the
knitting facing you, since picking up stitches creates a ridge on
the wrong side.
• Your knitting pattern will specify which needle size to use for
picking up stitches—usually one size smaller than the size used
for the main knitting.
• After you have picked up the required number of stitches,
2 Transfer the loop on the hook onto a
needle. Pull the yarn to tighten. Repeat,
transferring the loops to the needle.
work the border following the directions in your pattern, whether
it is ribbing, seed stitch, garter stitch, or a fold-over hem.
• If it is difficult to pick up stitches “evenly” along an edge, try
casting it off again, either looser or tighter. If this doesn’t work,
pull out the border and try again, adjusting the number of
stitches or spreading them out in a different way. Alternatively,
try a smaller needle size if the border looks too stretched, or a
larger needle size if it looks too tight.
 SELVAGES 197

ALONG A CURVED EDGE

1 When working picked-up armhole borders or

neckbands, you will be required to pick up stitches
along a curved edge. As a general rule, you can follow
2 Once all of the stitches have been picked
up, work the border as instructed in your
knitting pattern.
this diagram when picking up stitches along a curved
edge. Pick up one stitch in each cast-off stitch and three
stitches for every four row-ends. Along the actual curve,
ignore the corner stitches along the stepped decreases
to smooth out the curve. A picked-up border
with five rows of
single ribbing
Dots show positions of
picked-up stitches

SELVAGES
The selvage can make all the difference to a free edge and there are many methods that
are decorative as well as functional. Loose edges can be tightened with a chain or slipped
garter selvage, and rolling edges can be controlled with a garter selvage. Both selvages do
not have to be worked in the same way.

GARTER SELVAGE

1 This is best for edges that will not be sewn

together, since it can make a bumpy seam.
It helps the edge of stockinette stitch to lie flat.
2 On stockinette stitch, knit the first
and last stitch of every row.

Each “bump” equals two rows.

 198 FINISHING DETAILS

SLIPPED GARTER SELVAGE

A firmer selvage than garter selvage (see p.197).

2 The resulting edge is firmer than garter
TECHNIQUES

selvage, and smoother. The slipped

1 Slip the first stitch knitwise and knit the last

stitch on all rows.
stitches can help picking up on some projects.

DOUBLE SLIPPED GARTER SELVAGE

Good for slightly decorative free edges.

2 Knit the second stitch. Work as pattern to two from
the end of the row and knit the last two stitches.

1 Work all edge stitches the same way

for each row. Insert the right needle
into the back of the first stitch from right
to left and slip the stitch.
 SELVAGES 199

CHAIN SELVAGE

Best for picking up stitches into (see pp.196–197),

crochet edgings, and backstitch (but not mattress
stitch) seams (see p.215).
2 On garter stitch, with the yarn in front, slip the first stitch
purlwise, take the yarn back, and knit to the end.

1 On stockinette stitch, all right-side rows slip the first stitch

knitwise, and knit the last stitch. On all wrong-side rows, slip
the first stitch purlwise, and purl the last stitch.

PICOT LOOP SELVAGE

1 On right-side rows, insert the right needle

knitwise into the first two stitches, bring the
yarn around the front of the right needle from left
2 On wrong-side rows, loosely work a purl yarn
over (see p.132, hold it open with your thumb, if
necessary), and purl the rest of the row. On garter
to right, and work a yarn over (see p.132) while stitch, purl the first and the last two stitches.
knitting the first two stitches together. Knit to the
last two stitches, slip them knitwise one by one,
and insert the left needle into the front to make
an ssk decrease (see p.136).
 200 FINISHING DETAILS

PICOT POINT SELVAGE

1 On stockinette stitch on a
2 Slip the remaining stitch
3 On the purl row, cast
4 With the yarn to
TECHNIQUES

knit row, Knit-on cast-on two
stitches, then cast off knitwise
the same two stitches.
on the left needle without on two stitches as in
twisting onto the right needle. Step 1, bring the yarn to
Knit to the end of the row. the front and cast off
both stitches purlwise
(see p.106).
the front, slip the
remaining stitch on the left
needle, without twisting,
onto the right needle. Purl
to the end of the row.

FRINGED SELVAGE

1 For a four-stitch fringed selvage, using Single cast-on (see p.91),

cast on knit width plus an extra eight stitches. Work as many
rows as required in stockinette stitch or a variation of knit and purl
2 Unravel the edge stitches all the way down the fabric. To
make the fringe straight, thread a long needle through all
of the loops and block them while stretched flat (see p.213).
stitches. On the last row drop four stitches at each end of the row.
Cast off the remaining stitches.
 BUTTONHOLES 201

BUTTONHOLES
The simplest form of buttonhole is an eyelet, but there are techniques for larger, stronger
ones that will take different-sized buttons. Although horizontal buttonholes are the
most common, vertical and diagonal variations are also included in this section.

POSITIONING BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES

Decide on the number of

buttons before knitting
buttonholes. Work holes
1 Knit the buttonhole band,
working the calculated
number of rows between
to match button size. Top
1
⁄2in (1cm) buttonholes, allowing two rows
and bottom buttons are usually 40 rows
5
for a two-row buttonhole. Work
positioned between 1⁄2in (1cm) vertical buttonhole rows so that
and 11⁄4in (3cm) from the neck
40 they center on the marker.
and the hem edge. Start

2
buttonholes at least three 40 193⁄4in For a horizontally worked
stitches from the edge. Count (50cm) picked-up buttonband,
rows and stitches, since 40 240 rows count stitches rather than
measuring may be inaccurate. rows to calculate the spacing,
For vertically worked bands, knit 40 as described in Step 1.
and attach the buttonband first.
Mark the top and bottom button 40 1⁄2in (1cm)
position with thread. 5 rows

MAKING BUTTON LOOPS

1 Leaving a short loose end, pass the needle

from back to front through the knitting at
one end of the loop position and through the
2 Pass the needle again through the
knitting from the back to the front at
the first pin. This creates a doubled strand
3 Work buttonhole stitches tightly over the
doubled strand and the short yarn end.
Secure the yarn to the knitting. Pass the yarn
knitting again at the other end of the loop. for the base of the loop. through a few buttonhole stitches and trim.
Short yarn
Mark width of Use a blunt-ended end
loop with pins yarn needle

KNITTED BUTTON LOOP

1 Using Cable cast-on

(see p.93), cast on as
many stitches as required
2 Fold the loop in half. Use
the ends to sew the loop
neatly and firmly to the
for the length of the loop. inside edge of the item.
Next row, cast off all of
the stitches.
 202 FINISHING DETAILS

REINFORCED EYELET BUTTONHOLE

1 On a knit row, work to the

2 On the next row, slip the yarn
3 On the next row, slip the
TECHNIQUES

position of the buttonhole. over purlwise and make stitch before the yarn overs
Make a yarn over (see p.132). another front-to-back yarn over. knitwise. Knit both yarn overs
Work to the end of the row. Work to the end of the row. together but do not drop from
the left needle.

4 Pass the slipped stitch

over the newly made
stitch. Knit three stitches
5 This buttonhole is stronger and
neater than a simple eyelet
buttonhole (see p.153).
together (the yarn overs and
the following stitch). Work
to the end of the row.

ONE ROW HORIZONTAL BUTTONHOLE
A strong buttonhole
that is worked on
stockinette stitch
in this example, but
looks particularly
neat on a garter
stitch or reverse
stockinette
stitch project.
5 Slip one stitch knitwise and pass the last cast-on
stitch over it. Work the rest of the row.
BUTTONHOLES 203
1 Work to the
buttonhole
position (a knit
2 Slip one stitch
purlwise and pass
the previous stitch over.
3 Slip the last
stitch on the
right needle back
4 Cast on the number
of stitches for the
buttonhole using Cable
row on reverse Repeat this step across to the left. Turn cast-on (see p.93). Cast
stockinette stitch). the number of buttonhole the work. Take on one more stitch,
Bring the yarn stitches required. the yarn back. bring the yarn forward
to the front. after making the stitch
Slip one stitch but before placing it on
purlwise. Take the left needle. Turn.
the yarn back.
6 This buttonhole is worked the same on
reverse stockinette stitch.
 204 FINISHING DETAILS

CAST-OFF HORIZONTAL BUTTONHOLE

1 On a knit row, work to the buttonhole position. Work two more

2 For advanced completion using
3 Drop the left needle (use a
TECHNIQUES

stitches before passing one over the other in a Knitwise cast-off buttonhole cast-on, skip this
(see p.106) for the number of buttonhole stitches. When the last step and work Steps 3–5. For simple
cast-off loop is on the right needle, slip the first stitch on the left completion, turn the work and use
needle onto the right needle and pass the last cast-off loop over this Cable cast-on (see p.93). When the
stitch. Pull the yarn tight. Work the next row to the buttonhole. last cast-on loop is still on the right
needle, bring the yarn to the front
between the needles and transfer
the stitch to the left needle. Take the
yarn to the back, turn, and knit the
rest of the row. The buttonhole is
now complete.
point protector to retain the
stitches, if necessary) and work
only with the right needle. Hold
the yarn and the needle in your
right hand. With your left thumb
pointing downward, pick up the
yarn from behind, and wind your
thumb to the right in a counter-
clockwise circle so the yarn crosses
near the needle. Insert the right
needle into the front thumb loop.

4 Bring your left index finger from beneath,

catching the yarn. Take the yarn left
behind the needle and then wind to the right,
over the needle.
5 Slip the thumb loop over the point of the
right needle. Hold the new loop in place
with your right index finger and tighten the
yarn with your left hand, making sure the loop
goes all the way around the needle. Repeat for
each cast-on stitch. Knit to the end of the row.
 BUTTONHOLES 205

INCREASED HORIZONTAL BUTTONHOLE

1 Work to the buttonhole

position. Work two more
stitches before passing one
over the other in a Knitwise
cast-off (see p.106) for the
number of buttonhole stitches
(five in this example).
2 When the last cast-off loop is on
the right needle, slip it onto the
left needle and pass the second
3 Yarn over twice (once for a two- to
three-stitch buttonhole, depending on
the tension and yarn). Knit to the end
stitch over the cast-off loop. Pull of the row.
the yarn tight.

4 Next row, work to the yarn overs. Drop the yarn overs and pull up
the end stitch on the left needle so that it draws the yarn from
the overs and is elongated.
5 Purl into the front and back (see p.128) repeatedly for the same number
of times as stitches cast off plus one. Work to the end of the row.
 206 FINISHING DETAILS

VERTICAL BUTTONHOLE

1 This example is in stockinette stitch.

2 Work the right side of the buttonhole starting with a purl row,
TECHNIQUES

Work to the position of the buttonhole. making a chain selvage (see p.199) by slipping the first edge stitch
Slip the stitches that will be to the left of purlwise on all of the wrong side (WS) rows, and knitting the last edge
the buttonhole onto a stitch holder. Turn stitch on all of the right-side (RS) rows.
the work.

3 Once the RS is long enough, finish on a purl-side row, cut the yarn
with a long tail, and slip the right-side stitches onto another holder.
Slip the held stitches back onto the left needle with the knit side facing.
Join in the new end of yarn (leaving a long tail) and make a right-lifted
increase (see p.130) between the first and second stitches.

4 Slip the last stitch knitwise on the next and all WS

rows and knit it into the back of the first stitch on
all RS rows. This creates a variation of a chain selvage
5 When both sides
have equal rows,
making sure you finish
on the left side of the buttonhole. on a purl row, cut the
yarn with a long tail and
restore all of the
stitches to the needles
in the correct order.
Join the yarn in and
work a complete row,
working the two
selvage stitches of the
buttonhole together.
Sew in ends neatly.
 BUTTONHOLES 207

DIAGONAL BUTTONHOLE

1 Working in stockinette stitch. Knit to the position

of the buttonhole. Slip the stitches that will be
to the left of the buttonhole onto a stitch holder.
Turn the work. Slip the first stitch purlwise. Make
a yarn over. Purl to the end.
2 Knit the next row to the yarn over, and knit into
the back of the yarn over, twisting it to close the
hole. Knit the last stitch. Repeat for the required length
of the buttonhole, ending with a purl row. Repeat the
knit instruction in Step 1.

3 Cut the yarn with a long tail and slip the

right-side stitches onto another holder. Slip
the held stitches back onto the left needle with
5 Cut the yarn with a
long tail and restore
all of the stitches to the
the knit side facing. Join in the new end of yarn needles in the correct
and make a Right leaning increase (see p.130) order. Join the yarn in
between the first and second stitches. and work a complete
row, working the two
selvage stitches of the
buttonhole together. Sew
in the ends neatly. To
slant the buttonhole the
other way, reverse the
increase and decrease.

4 Knit into the back of the first stitch

and knit to the end. Purl the next row
to three stitches from the end. Purl the next
two stitches together and slip the last stitch
knitwise. Repeat this step for the required
length of the buttonhole, ending with a purl row.
 208 FINISHING DETAILS

POCKETS
Patch pockets can be knitted separately and sewn on or picked up from the main
TECHNIQUES

knitting. Inset versions are particularly neat on garments and can be edged with
textural and color stitch details, and even knitted in lighter-weight yarns to avoid bulk.

PICKED-UP PATCH POCKET

1 Work the garment piece first. Tack the side and bottom position of the
pocket on the garment with a thin contrast-color yarn. To ensure a
straight pocket bottom, either pick up into the row after the welt or tack
through the left side of the stitches along the base row.
2 Thread the pocket yarn on a large-eyed needle, take the end to the
wrong side and secure it, leaving a long tail. Have a knitting needle
ready to receive stitches as they are made. Starting at the lower right-hand
corner of the marked stitches, insert a crochet hook through the middle of
the “V” of the first stitch, under the top loop and back out to the front. Lay
the yarn from right to left into the hook, and draw a loop of yarn through.

4 Beginning with
a wrong-side
row, work as many
rows as necessary
for the pocket depth,
adding a ribbed or
patterned welt as
desired. Cast off.

5 Sew the sides

in place with
mattress stitch (see
p.214), using the
yarn ends if possible.
Remove the tacking
stitches.

3 Slip the loop onto the right needle. Repeat Steps 2 and 3
to the left along the row for each pocket base stitch.
 POCKETS 209

HORIZONTAL INSET POCKET

1 Knit the pocket lining before you knit the

garment piece; this will be two stitches
wider than the cast-off for the pocket. Leave
3 Turn and purl back
to one stitch from
the pocket position.
4 Purl across the
lining stitches. Purl
the last stitch together
on a spare needle after working the last knit Take the needle with with the first one on the
row, or put on a stitch holder. the lining stitches on it left needle. Continue.
in your left hand, and Complete the

2 With the right side facing, work to the pocket

position. Cast-off knitwise (see p.106) the
stitches for the pocket opening and knit
purl the last main stitch
and the first lining
stitch together.
garment piece.

to end of the row.

5 An alternative to Step 2 is to place the opening stitches without

casting off onto a stitch holder. This allows you to knit an edging
to the pocket later on.
6 When sewing the garment together, whip stitch the
lining to the garment without pulling the stitches too
tight. This example has a contrast lining, but the lining
would normally be made in the main yarn.
 210 FINISHING DETAILS

VERTICAL INSET POCKET

1 The opening is at the left of the actual pocket in this example, and
3 The right side and lining
4 Cable cast-on (see p.93)
TECHNIQUES

the lining is worked at the same time as the pocket front. On a is worked in one: with RS
right-side (RS) row, work to the pocket position, then slip the remaining facing, slip the stitches off
stitches on the left needle onto a stitch holder. the first stitch holder onto
a needle, unless you use a
double-pointed needle, you
may need to transfer them
from this needle to one that
the number of stitches
required for the width of the
pocket lining. Turn and
work the same number
of rows for the lining
and the left side as
were worked for the

2
has its tip facing to the right. pocket front. End
Work the front of the
Join in the yarn. with a purl row.
pocket: Turn the work and
work a garter stitch edge border
by knitting the first two stitches
and purling the rest of the row. On
the next row, work to two from
the end and then knit both edge
stitches. Continue to work rows,
with border stitches included, for
the depth of the pocket. Finish the
pocket front by working a purl
row and slip the stitches onto a
stitch holder. Cut a long yarn tail.

5 Join the top of the pocket: With RS facing, slip

the stitches off the second stitch holder onto
a needle pointing right (the stitch holder should
6 Complete the
piece and sew
the lining to the
be pointing left). Knit the next row. At the pocket garment front.
position, place the lining needle behind the left
needle and knit them together. Complete the row.
 HEMS 211

HEMS
A traditional ribbed hem is often knitted at the start of a garment, whereas others may
be sewn on afterward. Hems make great cuffs and can be added vertically along front
openings. Two different methods for finishing hems are shown here. Alternatively, use
a Provisional cast-on (see p.101) and graft the live stitches to the main fabric.

PICKED-UP HEM

3 Take a smaller
needle and a spare
piece of main yarn.
Working with the right
side (RS) facing, pick up

1
and knit through
Cast on the length of the
the center of each
hem using Backward loop
cast-on stitch.
cast-on (see p.91) with smaller
needles. This example uses two
colors to differentiate inner Inner
from outer, but this could also
be a design feature. In contrast
color, work the required depth
of the inner hem in stockinette
stitch, finishing on a knit row.

2 Change to the main color

and work another knit
row as the fold row. On larger
Main color
(front)
needles in the main color,
recommence stockinette stitch
with a knit row, and work until
the inner and the outer are the
same length, finishing with a
purl row.

4 These stitches may need transferring

to another needle, since the needle
must point in the same direction as that
5 Taking a larger needle
and rejoining the
main yarn if necessary,
of the hem stitches. Fold up the hem along knit the corresponding
the fold line with RS out. Hold the two stitches of both needles
needles together in your left hand. together onto the
right needle.

6 Block the hem with the garment

to achieve the final effect.
 212 FINISHING DETAILS

PICOT HEM

1 Using smaller
2 Work the required depth
TECHNIQUES

needles, cast on of the hem in stockinette

an even number of
stitches to the length of
the hem using Single
cast-on (see p.91).
stitch, ending with a purl row.
3 Next row, knit the first
two stitches together
(see p.135), make a yarn
over by bringing the yarn
forward and back over the
needle (see p.132). Repeat
to the end of the row.

Yarn over
lace holes

4 Change to larger
needles. Knit the
stitches and yarn overs
on the first row, work
an equal depth of hem
in stockinette stitch,
ending on a purl row.

5 When the piece is completed, fold up the hem at the lace

holes with the wrong sides together. Pin so that the stitches
are in line. Working from the wrong side, whip stitch in place
along a row using hem yarn and a blunt-ended needle as
follows: insert the needle into a reverse stitch loop and then
its vertically matching cast-on loop, pull the yarn through
and repeat. Do not allow the sewing to pucker the knitting. 6 Block the hem with the garment to achieve
the final effect.
 SEAMS 213

BLOCKING
Always refer to your yarn label before blocking. Textured stitch patterns, such as garter
stitch, ribbing, and cables, are best wet-blocked or steamed extremely gently so that their
texture is not altered—they should not be pressed or stretched.

WET BLOCKING STEAM BLOCKING

If your yarn allows, wet blocking is the best way to even out your
knitting. Using lukewarm water, either wash the piece or simply
wet it. Squeeze and lay it flat on a towel, then roll the towel to
squeeze out more moisture. Pin the piece into shape on layers
of dry towels covered with a sheet. Let it dry completely.
Only steam block if your yarn allows. Pin the piece to the correct
shape, then place a clean, damp cloth on top. Use a warm iron to
create steam, barely touching the cloth. Do not rest the iron on
the knitting, and avoid any garter stitch or ribbed areas. Before
removing the pins, let the piece dry completely.

SEAMS
The most popular seam techniques for knitting are edge-to-edge seam, mattress stitch (see p.214),
backstitch, and whip stitch (see p.215). Cast-off and grafted seams are sometimes called for, and
learning to graft open stitches together for a seamless join is very useful.

TIPS EDGE-TO-EDGE SEAM

• Block knitted pieces before sewing together. After seams This seam is suitable Wrong sides
are completed, open them out and steam very lightly if the for most stitch patterns.
yarn allows. To start, align the
• Always use a blunt-ended yarn needle for all seams; a pointed pieces of knitting with
needle will puncture the yarn strands and you won’t be able to the wrong sides facing
pull the yarn through the knitting successfully. you. Work each stitch
• Although the seams are shown here worked in a contrasting of the seam through
yarn for clarity, use a matching yarn for all seams. the little bumps
• If knitting in a fancy yarn, find a smooth, strong yarn of a formed along the
similar color to use for sewing. It is generally better, particularly edges of knitting
with mattress stitch, to work with shorter pieces because long as shown here.
strands become weakened and may break.
• Before starting a seam, pin the knitting together at wide
intervals. At the start of the seam, secure the yarn to the edge
of one piece of knitting with two or three whip stitches.
• Make seams firm but not too tight. They should have a little
elasticity, to match the elasticity of the knitted fabric.
 214 FINISHING DETAILS

FIGURE-EIGHT START FOR SEAMS

TECHNIQUES

3 Bring the
needle from
back to front
through the
bottom stitch of

5
the right piece,
Take the
A figure eight makes a strong, as close to
needle to the
secure start to a seam, and is both edges
right piece and
particularly useful before as possible.
repeat Step 2.
mattress stitch.

2 4
This makes a
Thread the Take the

1
figure eight,
Align the edges of the pieces to needle with needle
which is both a
be seamed with both of the right knitting yarn or behind the left
strong and a neat
sides facing you. After working the substitute. piece, and insert
start to a seam.
figure eight, turn the work as required it from back to
for your chosen seaming method. front through
the bottom
edge stitch.

MATTRESS STITCH

2 Insert the needle from the front through the center of the first knit
stitch on one piece of knitting and up through the center of the stitch
two rows above. Repeat on the other edge, working up the seam and
keeping the stitches loose. After about six stitches, gently pull the thread
to draw the edges together, being careful not to pucker the seam.

Mattress stitch is almost invisible,

and is ideal for seaming stockinette
stitch and ribs. It is always worked
from the right side.

1 After a figure-eight start (see above),

take the needle back under the left
piece and bring it through the same place
as before. This positions the first stitch
in the correct place.
 SEAMS 215

BACKSTITCH SEAM WHIP STITCH SEAM

Backstitch can be used for almost any seam on This seam is also called
knitting, but it is not suitable for super-bulky yarns. an oversewn seam or an
overcast seam.

1 Align the pieces of knitting with the right sides together.

Make one stitch forward, and one stitch back into the
starting point of the previous stitch as shown. Work the 1 With the right sides together,
insert the needle from back to
stitches as close to the edge of the knitting as possible. front through both layers, working
through the centers of the edge
stitches (not through the bumps).
Right sides of Make each stitch in the same way.
knitting together
Right sides of
knitting together

GRAFTED SEAM

This seam can be

worked along two
pieces of knitting
2 When worked in
a matching yarn
as shown here, the
that have not been seam blends in
cast off or along two completely and
cast-off edges as makes it look like
shown here; the one continuous
principle for both piece of knitting.
is the same.

1 With the right sides

facing you, follow
the path of a row of
knitting along the
seam as shown.
 216 FINISHING DETAILS

GRAFTING OPEN STITCHES TOGETHER

TECHNIQUES

“Waste”
rows
Take
needle
behind
two legs
of “V”

Pieces to be joined must have the

same number of stitches. Knit row
stitches can be recognized as “V”s.
2 To join the pieces, remove
the needle or holder.
Lay the pieces right-side up,
3 Insert the needle from the back
through the first main color
stitch on the left piece (so it comes
4 Insert the needle from the
front through the main
color edge loop on the right,
open edges facing as shown. out through the “V” of the stitch). behind the two “legs” and out

1 At the end of the main knitting, do not

cast off, but knit four rows of stockinette
stitch “waste” rows in a thinner, contrast-
Thread a blunt-ended needle,
ideally with a long end from
one of the rows to be grafted.
to the front through the center
of the next stitch (the middle
of the “V”).
colored yarn. Leave on needles or a holder.

5 Continue, taking the needle back into

the “V” of the left-hand stitch that it
emerges from, behind the two “legs” and
6 Repeat, taking the needle
to the right side.

out of the next “V.” Gently pull the yarn

until the sewn stitch is same size as the
knit stitches. As you pull, fold the waste
fabric under to close the gap.
7 Repeat Steps 5 and 6 along the row. Secure the ends and unravel the
waste yarns. With more experience it becomes possible to graft the
pieces together right off the needles without knitting waste rows.
 SEAMS 217

SEWING ON AN EDGING

1 Pin the edging to the knitting with the

right sides facing each other.
Wrong side of edging Right side of knitting

2 Sew the edges together with even, closely

worked whip stitches (see p.215).

Whip
stitches

Right side of edging Right side of knitting

3 Open out the finished seam and steam very lightly if the yarn
allows it (see p.213 for how to steam block).
 218 FINISHING DETAILS

CUTTING INTO YOUR KNITTING

Cutting can be a time-saving way of completing projects, particularly for circular knitted
TECHNIQUES

garments. Hairy wool that clings to itself and felts slightly when washed is ideal. “Steek”
or “bridge” are common terms for the extra stitches knitted where openings will later be
cut. You can machine sew edges prior to picking up.

STEEKS OR BRIDGES

3 Pick up and
knit (see p.196)
all along the edge,
going either between
the last steek stitch
and the first main
fabric stitch, or
wherever the new
edge is to be
positioned. Work
the required edging.
Cast off.

1 To work a steek as, for example, a

cardigan opening, cast on an extra
nine stitches for the steek at the center
front. Work these stitches in one-stitch
vertical stripes if knitting Fair Isle and in
stockinette stitch when working with one
color. Use markers to identify the steek.
2 Work the complete front. Block the
piece and cut straight up the center
stitch of the steek. If the knitting is likely
to unravel, run a line of small machine
stitches along the inside of the steek
before cutting to prevent this.

4 Turn the work inside out, trim any unraveled ends with sharp scissors,
and whip stitch the cut edge down to the back of the main fabric
using the main color yarn. Sew the back, crossing the first stitches.
5 The cut edge is neatly folded under and invisible on
the right side of the completed cardigan opening.
 FASTENINGS 219

FASTENINGS
Choose an appropriate size and material for your project. Although nylon and plastic
fastenings are lighter and less obtrusive, metallic or contrast-colored ones can make a
statement. Riveted press snaps can be used; insert the shank between stitches and when
connecting the top to the bottom, make sure there are no sharp edges to cut stitches.

ATTACHING PRESS SNAPS

The “male” side of the snap goes on the inside

of the outer of a garment. Decide the position
of the snaps. Measuring can be inaccurate;
2 Repeat this three or four
times through each hole,
never taking the needle
count exact stitches and rows on each piece through to the right side.
and mark the positions with contrast thread. Move the needle to the next
hole and repeat. To secure

1 Make a knot and sew in the end of the thread at a

marker, catching only half of each strand of yarn
so that stitches don’t go through to right side. Place
the thread, sew two small
backstitches, then sew a
loop, thread the needle back
the snap in position centrally over the marker and through, and pull tightly to
insert the needle inward through the surface of the secure the thread.
yarn near a snap hole just below the snap edge, then
bring it up through the snap hole.

SEWING IN A ZIPPER

1 Match the color

and the weight of
the zipper to the yarn,
2 Close the zipper. With the
right sides facing, pin the
top and bottom of the knitting
and knit the length of to the zipper first, making sure
the garment to match the teeth are covered by the
the zipper lengths knitted edge. Pin the center,
available. Work a then the centers of the
garter stitch selvage remaining sections, easing the
(see p.197) at the rows so they are distributed
zipper edge. evenly. Pin horizontally rather
than vertically. Do one side at
a time and use plenty of pins.

3 Tack the zipper in place

with contrast sewing
thread, sewing between
5 Turn the garment
inside out. With
knitting yarn, or
the same vertical lines matching sewing
of stitches. thread, slip stitch the
outer edges of the

4 With a sharp, large-eyed

needle and knitting
yarn (or matching sewing
zipper to the knitting,
sewing into the back
of the same vertical
thread), backstitch neatly lines of stitches.
upward from hem, sewing
between the same vertical
lines of stitches.
 220

EMBELLISHMENTS
TECHNIQUES

Plain knitting sometimes calls out for a little embellishment. Embroidery, a few
well-placed beads, or a decorative edging are good candidates for the perfect finishing touch.

Pockets, collars, hems, and cuffs are ideal positions for these.

BEAD KNITTING
Choose beads carefully; glass beads are attractive, but can weigh down your knitting. Make
sure that the bead hole is large enough for the yarn, or consider using a second thread or
enclosing large beads. Beaded cast-on or cast-off make effective edgings.

THREADING BEADS ONTO YARN

Make sure you have the right Thread the beads onto the
beads before starting to thread yarn before you begin Knitting
them onto the yarn. Consider knitting. The last bead to be yarn
their size and weight. If your used is threaded on first and
knitting is to be entirely the first bead to be used is
covered with scattered beads, threaded on last. Fold a short
heavy beads will be unsuitable piece of sewing thread in
as they would weigh down the half, thread both cut ends
knitting too much. Adding a together through the eye of
little weight to the knitting can, an ordinary sewing needle, and Sewing
however, produce the extra pass the end of the yarn through thread
drape needed for a graceful the sewing-thread loop. Thread
shawl, scarf, or evening knit. the beads onto the sewing
needle, over the thread, and Yarn coming
onto the yarn. from ball

SLIP STITCH BEADING

1 There is usually a chart provided for

positioning the beads on slip stitch
beading, unless only a few beads are to be
added, in which case the bead placements
will be in the written instructions. The sample
chart here illustrates how slip stitch beads are
staggered. This is because the slipped stitches
at the bead positions pull in the knitting and
alternating the bead placements evens out
the fabric.
= k on RS rows, p on WS rows
= place bead and slip stitch
8
2 The beads are placed on knit (right-side)
rows. Knit to the position of the bead,
then bring the yarn to the front of the work
3 Take the yarn to the
wrong side between the
two needles, leaving the bead
between the two needles. Slide the bead up sitting on the right side in
close to the knitting and slip the next stit front of the stitch just slipped.
ch purlwise from the left needle to the Knit the next stitch firmly to
right needle. tighten the strand holding
the bead at the front.
Slipping stitch
purlwise Slipped stitch

1 (RS)
Rep = 4sts (x 8 rows)
 BEAD KNITTING 221

SIMPLE GARTER STITCH BEADING

1 This method can be used to create bands

of beads along borders or at intervals for
beaded stripes. Start with a right-side row and
2 Knit the next row with
no beads. Alternate a bead
row and a plain row to form a
work at least three rows of plain garter stitch band of beads of the desired
before adding any beads. On the next row depth. This technique could be
(a wrong-side row), knit two edge stitches used to create a piece entirely
before adding a bead. Then push a bead covered with beads for a small
up close to the knitting before working bag, but would create a fabric
each stitch. At the end of the row, add too heavy for a large garment.
the last bead when two stitches remain
on the left needle, then knit the last
two stitches.
Wrong side
of knitting Right side
of knitting

REVERSE STITCH BEADING INSET BEAD WITH A HOOK

1 Thread beads onto the

knitting yarn. Working
in stockinette stitch, knit to
2 Purl one. The bead must sit tight
against the right needle, so slide
it along the yarn to this position and
1 Bead shows from both sides and is inset
into the knitting. Knit to the bead position.

one stitch before the bead

position. Bring the yarn to
the front.
hold it there. Purl the next stitch. Take
the yarn to the back and work to the
next bead position.
2 Place the bead on a fine crochet hook.
Pick the next stitch off the left needle
with a hook. Slide the bead onto th estitch
and return it to the left needle. Knit or purl
the stitch as required. Needle and thread can
be used instead of a crochet hook. In which
case, make a loop of thread through the stitch
and slide the bead down the thread.

Hold bead
in position
 222 EMBELLISHMENTS

CLOSE BEADING

1 Work at a
2 On a knit row: knit
3 On a purl row: slide a
4 Draw both loop
TECHNIQUES

tight tension into the back of bead along close to the and bead through
so the beads stay the stitch, draw the needle. Purl into the back the stitch, with the
at the front. loop and bead through of the stitch, positioning the bead behind the right
Thread the beads the stitch, with the right needle above the bead needle. Tighten to
onto the yarn. bead behind the right from the previous row. ensure the bead stays
Slide the bead needle. Tighten the on the right side.
along close to stitch with a bead at
the needle. the front.

USING A SECOND YARN

1 Thread beads onto a fine yarn that matches

the main yarn color. Larger, heavier beads
may “dangle” rather than lie on the fabric, so
3 When the
bead position
is reached, leave
4 Leave the bead and thread at
the front and knit a stitch with
the main yarn. Take the fine thread
choose beads carefully. Bugle and tiny glass the main yarn at to the back and knit the next stitch
beads work well. the back. Bring the with both yarns. Work to the next
bead thread and bead bead position.

2 Work all stitches with

both yarns.
to the front and slip the
bead along the thread
until close to the front
of the knitting.

BEADED LOOPS AND CLUSTERS

1 Thread the beads onto

the knitting yarn in the
desired color/shape sequence
(here four small beads per
cluster, three small, one larger,
and three small per loop).
3 Loop: work in stockinette stitch to the
position of the loop. Bring the yarn to
the front, slide three small round beads,
a larger one, and three more small ones Cluster Loop
along the yarn to the needles. Take the
yarn to the back. Knit into the back of the
next stitch and knit to the next loop. If

2 Cluster: work stockinette

stitch to the position of the
cluster. Bring the yarn to the
front, slide four small beads
along the yarn. Take the yarn to
the back, tighten, and knit into
the back of the next stitch. Knit
to the next cluster position.
the beads are heavy and a hole forms, try
the following variation after taking the
yarn back: knit the next stitch, but do not
remove it from the left needle, then knit
into the stitch again, sliding it off the left
needle afterward. Slip both loops of the
stitch to the right needle, insert the left
needle into the front of both loops, and
knit together (ssk).
 BEAD KNITTING 223

TUBULAR POCKETS FOR LARGE BEADS

1 Knit to the
position of
the bead. Insert
2 On the next row,
purl to the bead
position. Purl the
3 On the next row, at the bead position:
knit the first stitch, wrapping the yarn
twice around the needle. Bring the yarn to
5 Purl to the bead position. Slip the first
stitch onto the right needle, the second
onto a cable needle, the third onto the right
the needle and first increased stitch, the front and slip the second stitch purlwise, needle, and the fourth onto the cable needle.
knit the front and wrapping the yarn releasing the wrapped loops. Take the yarn This opens the tubular pocket. Insert the bead.
back of the stitch twice around the to the back and knit the third stitch, wrapping Return the four stitches to the left needle
(see p.128), repeat needle. Slip the the yarn twice around the needle. Bring in correct order without twisting. Purl two
on the next stitch second purlwise and the yarn to the front and slip the fourth together twice to close the pocket. Purl to
(or work across knit the third, stitch purlwise, releasing the wrapped the next bead.
more stitches, wrapping the yarn loops as shown. Take the yarn to the back
depending on the twice around the and knit to the next bead.
bead size). Knit to needle. Slip the
the next bead. fourth purlwise. Purl
to the next bead. 4 Repeat Steps 2 and 3 once
or twice more (depending
on the bead size).

BEADED CAST-ON
6 The completed pocket holds the bead in

1
position. Large, flat objects can be inserted
Thread the beads onto the knitting yarn.
in this way as well.
Make a slip knot at the end of the yarn,
leaving a 4in (10cm) tail, and place on the
needle. Hold the needle in your right hand,
the yarn in your left. Push a bead along the
yarn between your left hand and the needle.
Hold the yarn and wrap it around your
thumb as shown, then insert the right needle
to work a Single cast-on (see p.91). Make sure
the bead remains under the needle.

2 Repeat for each cast-on stitch, or

space the beads as required along
the edge; this example has three
stitches between each bead.
 224 EMBELLISHMENTS

BEADED CAST-OFF

1 Cut a piece of the main color

3 Push a bead close to the back
4 For either method, pass the
6 The last stitch should
TECHNIQUES

yarn five times the width of
the knitting. Thread one bead for
each stitch to be beaded, less one,
onto the yarn. Tie the last bead
(which will not be worked) to
the end of the yarn to prevent
the beads from sliding off.
of the fabric. For a firm edge
(as shown here), knit a stitch,
drawing both the bead and the
yarn through the stitch. To alter
the lie of the bead, change which
side of the bead the stitch is
passed over in Step 4. For a
second stitch on the right
needle over the first and off the
tip of the needle.
5 Repeat Steps 3 and 4
along the cast-off,
either working one bead
not be beaded if it will be
seamed, so remove and discard
the end bead, work the last
stitch plain, and pull the end
through as normal.

dangling bead, knit the next stitch, per stitch or some plain

2 With the beaded yarn, knit

the first two stitches of
cast-off. Pass the second
leaving bead at the back as
the new loop is formed.
cast-offs in between,
depending on the size
of the bead and the
over the first as normal. effect required.
This leaves a selvage
stitch for seaming.

BOBBLES AND EMBOSSING

Popcorns and bobbles look similar but are worked differently. Bells are larger variations of
tulip clusters that become partially detached from the knitting. Flaps are worked separately
and integrated as the work progresses, while curls combine short rows with tubular knitting.
Try using Reverse knitting (see p.194) to avoid turning the work.

POPCORNS

1 This example is
worked on a knit
row on stockinette
2 Insert the right
needle as if to
knit into the next
3 On the next row,
purl to the popcorn
position. Insert the tip
4 Purl to the next popcorn position. On the
next row, knit to the next popcorn position
and repeat Steps 2–4 as required.
stitch fabric. Knit stitch, then knit into of the left needle into
to the popcorn the front, back, the second stitch on
position. front, then back of the right needle and
the stitch. Slip the pass it over the first
stitch off the needle. stitch and over the tip.
Four stitches are Repeat with the third
made from one. and fourth stitches.
Knit to the
next popcorn
position.
 BOBBLES AND EMBOSSING 225

DETACHED BOBBLES

1 This example is worked on a knit row

on stockinette stitch fabric, making a
reverse stockinette stitch bobble. Knit to
2 Slide the stitch
off the left
needle. Five stitches
3 Turn the work.
Knit across the
five stitches and
the bobble position. Insert the right needle are made from one. loops just made.
knitwise into the next stitch. Knit it without
removing it from the left needle. Bring the
yarn to the front between the needles and
purl into the same stitch. Take the yarn to
the back and knit it again; bring the yarn to
the front, purl it again; take the yarn to the
back and knit it again.

4 Turn and purl across the

five stitches just worked.
Take the yarn to the back.
5 Insert the tip of the left
needle into the second stitch
on the right needle and pass it
6 Repeat Steps 1–5 to make the next bobble. Bobbles can be
purely decorative, or be used as a functional fastener on
garments or accessories.
over the first stitch and over the
tip of the needle. Repeat with the
third and fourth stitches. One
bobble stitch left. Knit to the next
bobble position.
 226 EMBELLISHMENTS

TULIP CLUSTER BOBBLE

1 Makes a stockinette stitch cluster on

2 Work three rows, working the background in
TECHNIQUES

a reverse stockinette stitch fabric. On
a right-side row, purl to the bobble position.
Make five stitches out of one as in Step 1 of
Bobbles (see p.225). Purl to the next bobble,
or end of the row.
stockinette stitch and the bobble in reverse
stockinette stitch. (When thebackground is knit,
purl bobbles and vice versa).
Wrong side

3 On the next row, with right

side facing, purl to the bobble
position. Slip the first bobble stitch
4 On the next row, knit to the
bobble position and purl the
three bobble stitches.
5 On the next row, purl to
the bobble position, slip
the first stitch, k2tog, and
to the right needle, knit one and pass the first stitch over
pass the slipped stitch over it. Knit and off the right needle.
one, k2tog, three stitches remain of Purl to the next bobble.
the bobble.

6 Bobbles can be made larger by working

more rows. For a more prominent version,
try working Bells (opposite).
 BOBBLES AND EMBOSSING 227

BELLS

2 Work 5 more complete rows, working the

background in reverse stockinette stitch
and the bell stitches in stockinette stitch.
3 RS facing, continue as
in Step 2, but slip the
first two stitches of the
Wrong side
bell knitwise, one by one,
knit together with the left
needle through the front
(ssk, see p.136). Knit to
two from the end
of the bell and k2tog
(see p.135).

1 This example works a stockinette stitch bell

on a reverse stockinette stitch background.
With right side (RS) facing, purl to the position
of the bell. Turn the work and Cable cast-on
(see p.93) eight stitches onto what is
temporarily the left needle. Turn the work and
work to the next bell or the end of the row.

FLAPS
4 Repeat Step 3 on every RS row until

1 2
only two stitches are left of the bell.
Working on separate needles, knit For the purl version, see Step 3 of
Knit these together on the next knit row,
a garter stitch triangle by casting Horizontal inset pocket (see p.209).
and then knit the last remaining stitch of
on one stitch. Knit into the front, back, Flaps can be made from any shape knitted
the bell together with the following one to
and front of this stitch. Kfb each end in a stitch that lies flat; try seed stitch
complete the bell.
stitch on alternate rows until nine rectangles or diamonds.
stitches wide. Place the stitches on
a spare needle. Work to the position
of the flap. Place the needle with
the flap stitches in front of the main
needle. Insert the right needle into
the first stitch of both left-hand
needles. Knit together.
 228 EMBELLISHMENTS

CURLS

1 Work in
2 Work a purl right
3 Purl one stitch in color A.
4 Knit to the curl in
TECHNIQUES

stockinette leaning increase Repeat this increase, purl color A. With color A
stitch and color using color B by picking one sequence across the width and B at the back, knit all
A. With wrong up and purling into the of the curl (six for this example, the color B stitches in
side facing, purl right side of the stitch so the curl will be 12 stitches color B, taking the yarn
to the position below the next stitch wide). Purl to the end of the row. forward and back to slip
of the curl. (this is picked up the each color A stitch
same as a right lifted purlwise in between.Turn
increase on a knit row, at the end of the curl.
see p.130).

5 Keep color A at the front. In color B, purl

all color B stitches, taking the yarn back
and forward to slip each color A stitch in
6 Repeat Steps 4 and 5
between. Turn at the end of the curl.
two or more times,
working only over the
7 Take color A and B to the back. With color
A, work to the end of the row, then work
a complete row, knitting each color B stitch
curl stitches. together with the following color A stitch. Trim
the ends of color B and sew in on the reverse.
 EMBROIDERY ON KNITTING 229

EMBROIDERY ON KNITTING
Duplicate stitch, bullion stitch, lazy daisies, and chain stitch are most commonly used
on knitting, although running and satin stitch can be very attractive as well. Use a smooth
yarn that is the same weight as that used for the knitting, or slightly thicker, together
with a blunt-ended needle to keep from splitting the knitting yarn.

DUPLICATE STITCH CHART

Because duplicate stitch

embroidery imitates and covers
the knit stitches on the right side of 26
the stockinette stitch, you can work
any charted colorwork motif using
the technique. (Cross-stitch books
are also good sources of motifs
for duplicate stitch.) The completed 20
embroidered motif will look as if it
has been knitted into the fabric.

10

DUPLICATE STITCH WORKED HORIZONTALLY

1 Secure the embroidery

yarn to the wrong side
of the stockinette stitch,
2 Insert the needle
from right to left
into the knit stitch below
then pass the needle and out at the center
from back to front of the next knit stitch
through the center of to the left to complete
a knit stitch and pull the stitch as shown.
the yarn through. Next, Continue in this way,
insert the needle from tracing the path of the
right to left behind the knitting horizontally.
knit stitch above as
shown and gently pull
the yarn through
so it “mirrors” the
knit stitch size.
 230 EMBELLISHMENTS

DUPLICATE STITCH WORKED VERTICALLY

1 Secure the embroidery yarn on the wrong side of the stockinette

2 Insert the needle from front to back and to front again under the
TECHNIQUES

stitch, then pass the needle from back to front through the center top of the stitch below so it comes out in the center of the stitch
of a knit stitch and pull the yarn through. Next, insert the needle just covered, as shown. Continue in this way, tracing the path of the
from right to left behind the knit stitch above, as shown, and pull knitting vertically.
the yarn through.

SATIN STITCH

1 Secure the
yarn on the
wrong side. Bring
3 Bring the
needle to the
front again at the
the needle through original side, but
to the front spacing it a yarn’s-
between two width away by
stitches, at one angling the needle
side of the shape very slightly while
to be worked. at the back of the
work. The stitches
should lie flat
and parallel to
each other.

4 Continue
to work the
shape in long,

2
smooth stitches
Take the
that do not pucker
needle to the
the fabric.
back between two
stitches at the
opposite side of
the shape.
 EMBROIDERY ON KNITTING 231

RUNNING STITCH

1 Secure the yarn on the wrong

side of the work. Bring the
needle through to the front
2 Take the needle to the
back between two stitches
a measured number of
3 Repeat, spacing the stitches in an even pattern as
required, being careful not to pucker the fabric.

between two stitches, at the stitches or rows to the right

end of the line to be worked. (or left).

BULLION STITCH LAZY DAISY STITCH

To begin the stitch, secure the yarn on the wrong side and bring
the needle through to the right side at one end of the position for
the stitch. Insert the needle through to the back a short distance
from the starting point and out to the front again at the starting
point. Wrap the yarn at least six times around the needle close to
the knitting and, holding the wraps with your fingers, pull the
needle carefully through the wraps. To complete the stitch, reinsert
the needle through the knitting at the same place (as shown by the
arrow). Arrange the bullion stitches in spirals to form rose shapes
or, as shown here, to form simple star or flower-petal shapes.
Lazy daisy stitches are individual chain stitches held down at
the loop end by a short stitch. They are traditionally used to form
flower shapes. To begin the stitch, secure the yarn on the wrong
side and bring the needle through at the center of the flower.
Reinsert the needle through to the back at the starting point and
bring it out to the front a short distance away as shown. Secure
the loop with a short stitch. Work all the “petals” in the same
way, starting each one at the flower center.
 232 EMBELLISHMENTS

CHAIN STITCH ON STRIPES EMBROIDERED SMOCKING

Smocking
TECHNIQUES

draws the
knitting in, so
knit the fabric
one and half
times the
required width.

1 Cast on a
multiple of
eight plus three
extra stitches (35 in
this example). Work
a wide rib fabric
starting with three
purl stitches and
one knit stitch that
repeats across the
row, ending with
three purl stitches.
This is the right side.
Work 30 rows and
cast off.

Knitted stripes can be turned into a plaid or check pattern with

lines of chain stitch worked vertically between stitches. Bring a
blunt-ended yarn needle out in position for the first stitch. Reinsert
the needle where it emerged and bring the tip out a short distance
below with the yarn looped under it. Pull the yarn through. To
continue, insert the needle back into the hole from which it has
just emerged and bring it out a short distance below.
2 Mark the second rib stitch from the right four
rows up the work from the cast on. Thread a
needle with contrast yarn, secure the yarn to the
right side back of the work and bring the needle
from the back to the front just between the last
purl stitch and the knit stitch of the marked rib stitch.

3 Working to the left, reinsert the needle to the back after the third rib
knit stitch. Rethread the yarn in the same direction once more, making
sure not to catch the yarn with the needle and ending with the needle at
the back. Gently pull the yarn to gather the two ribs. Continue along the
row, working into each pair of rib stitches as shown. Gather each wound
stitch as it is completed. Fasten and cut the yarn at the other end.
4 Move four rows up and work the next gathers. Refasten the yarn to the
right edge, bring the needle from back to front just before the first rib
knit stitch, reinsert just after the second rib knit stitch, thread the yarn
around, and gather as in Step 3. Repeat along the row, starting by bringing
the yarn to the front after the next three purl stitches as in Step 3. Continue
as Step 3 and 4, spacing each repeat four rows apart up the fabric.
 3-D EMBELLISHMENTS 233

3-D EMBELLISHMENTS
Surface embellishments and edge decorations can be attached to knitting once it is
completed. These are easy and fun to make and extremely effective, but remember
to buy extra yarn. Simple tools are required to make pom-poms and tassels, while
a specially worked cast-on, cast-off, or selvage will make adding fringe easier.

TWIZZELS

1 Cast on eight stitches using Backward

loop cast-on (see p.91) or another loose
cast-on method.
3 Turn the work. Knit
eight, then knit two
stitches together twice.

2 Turn the work. Knit two stitches together along

the row. Cast on eight stitches using the same
method as before.

K2togs K2togs

4 Turn the work. Knit two stitches together five

times. Cast on eight stitches.
5 Turn the work. Knit eight,
then knit two stitches
together and the last three
stitches together. Repeat
Steps 4 and 5 until the
required length is reached.

K2togs
6 To finish, turn the work and
knit two stitches together
five times. Turn, knit two
together, and knit three together.
Turn, knit two together, and pull
the thread through.
 234 EMBELLISHMENTS

POM-POMS

1 Draw two 31⁄4in (8cm) diameter

2 Cut a few 1yd (1m)
3 When the first ball runs out, make another. If the center becomes too
TECHNIQUES

circles on firm cardboard. Draw
another 1in (2.5cm) diameter circle in
the center. The diameter of the outer
circle minus that of the inner will be
the approximate size of the pompom.
A smaller center circle makes a denser
pompom. Cut out circles and centers
so they look like doughnuts.
pieces of yarn and wind tight, thread as many strands of yarn as possible onto a large-eyed
them together into a small needle, and use this to complete the winding. Next, insert the point of your
ball. Put the circles together. scissors into the outside of the circle and cut through the wraps.
Hold the yarn ends at the
edge of the circle, and insert
the ball into the center,
winding the yarn through the
circles. Continue winding.

4 Slide a long doubled strand of yarn between the circles, wrap and knot
it tightly around the core.
5 Thread the yarn onto a needle and make a few stitches through the
knot. Gently remove the circles. Shake and trim the pom-pom, but do
not cut the tie strands. Suspending a wool pom-pom in steam will make it
even fuller (hang it at the end of a long needle for safety).
 3-D EMBELLISHMENTS 235

TASSELS

1 Select a template approximately the length of the finished tassel;

this can be cut cardboard, but a book is often ideal. Holding the
end with your thumb, wrap the yarn repeatedly around the template
using single or varied colors. Fifty wraps is average, more wraps make
a thicker tassel. With a threaded needle, pull a long doubled strand of
2 Insert scissors at the base of the
wraps and cut across all of the
strands. Remove the template.
yarn between the yarn and the template, and slide it up to the end.
Tie it tightly around the strands, leaving long ends.

3 Wrap another strand of yarn

tightly around the top, a short
distance below the head, then tie it
4 Trim the ends of the tassel
and sew it to your project
with the remaining long strand
securely; sew the ends through the at the head. Light pressing or
wraps and into the tassel head a steaming at the end of Step 2
few times. will make the tassel sleeker.
 236 EMBELLISHMENTS

FRINGE

1 Cut a cardboard template a little wider

2 Take several pieces (more make a
3 Catch the strands in the hook again and
TECHNIQUES

than the fringe length. Wind the yarn
around the cardboard. Cut along one side
of the cardboard, making pieces of yarn
double its width.
thicker fringe), fold in half, and hold
the folded loop in front of the fabric edge.
Insert a crochet hook through the back
of the fabric close to the edge or through
specially made selvage holes. Catch the
folded loop and pull it through to the back.
pull them through the first loop. Repeat
along the edge, spacing as required. Trim the
ends evenly. Fringes can be beaded, knotted,
or worked in silky or contrast-colored yarns.

DRAWTHREAD BOBBLE

1 Using smaller needles than normal for the

yarn, cast on five stitches using Backward
loop cast-on (see p.91). Work a number of
2 Cut the yarn, leaving an
8in (20cm) tail, and pull
through the remaining stitch.
3 Sew together to secure and use the same
thread to attach to the project.

rows in garter or stockinette stitch as desired. Sew a running stitch with the
Finish with wrong side facing, and slip all of yarn tail around the edge, and
the stitches, one by one, over the first one. pull tightly. (Contrast yarn has
been used here for clarity.)
 3-D EMBELLISHMENTS 237

COVERED BUTTONS

1 This example uses seed stitch (see p.320). On

smaller needles than normal for the yarn, knit a
square that is at least one and a half times as big as
2 Cut the yarn with an 8in (20cm) tail, thread a
large-eyed needle with the tail and thread back
through stitches as they are removed from the needle.
the button front. If using a kit, go to Step 4. Sew small running stitches around the three edges of
the knitting, leave the thread end loose. (A contrast
thread has been used here for clarity.)

4 If using a kit, cast off the square, and follow the manufacturer’s
instructions to complete the button in either method. A layer of
fine woven fabric can be inserted under the knitting to prevent the
button from showing through the stretched stitches.

3 Gently draw the knitting up into a shallow pouch.

Insert the button into the pouch and draw the threads
tight. Sew closed with the yarn end. Sew to the garment
with knitting yarn or matching thread. To secure big
buttons, try sewing through a small plastic button at
the back of the knitting at the same time.
 238

KNITTED TOYS
TECHNIQUES

If you have never knitted a toy before, try this very easy striped monkey.
These step-by-step instructions for making a toy include lots of tips for knitting toy

pieces, for stuffing, for assembling parts, and for stitching facial features. (Toy

directions are given on p.354.)

MAKING THE TOY

Knit on a pair of straight needles instead of in the round, this monkey is easy, even
for a beginner. The toy pattern (see p.354) has been specifically written to be easy to
understand as well. Follow the steps to learn practical general toy-making tips.

CHOOSING MATERIALS

Start your toy project by choosing the yarns, needles, and extras. For the monkey, you need six colors
of yarn. One ball of each yarn is often enough for the whole toy, but your toy pattern will specify a yarn
amount. For striped toys, small amounts of leftover yarns are ideal, as long as they are all the same weight.
As with most toys, the extras needed for the monkey include embroidery thread for facial features,
buttons for eyes, and toy filling. If you are making the toy for a small child, you should either embroider
the eyes or select safety eyes that meet safety regulations. Safety eyes have a shank that is pushed through
the fabric and held by a metal or plastic back that clamps onto the shank.

YARN KNITTING NEEDLES

Scraps of a lightweight or medium-weight yarn Pair of needles that are one to two sizes
(see p.32) in six colors (A, B, C, D, E, and F) smaller than the size recommended on
the yarn label.

Six-strand cotton Polyester

B, C, D, E (four
stripe colors in three
different tones—pale, light,
light-medium, and medium)
A (foot and
hand color)
embroidery thread toy filling
F (ear and EXTRAS
tail color)
Black six-strand cotton embroidery
thread for the eyebrows, nose, and Button
mouth.Two small black buttons eyes
(1⁄2in/10mm in diameter) and strong
button thread for the eyes (or black
toy safety eyes). Toy filling.
 MAKING THE TOY 239

KNITTING THE BODY AND HEAD

Body
knitted
1 Work the toy pieces in the order given; the body
and head are usually knitted first. Follow the pattern
carefully, checking off the worked rows. Knit tightly
Completed
body
and head
Long yarn end for
gathering cast-on
to neck piece stitches
and count your stitches regularly to make sure you
have the correct number.

2 Knitted toy pieces

only take on their
final shape once the
seams are sewn and
Knot stripe yarn ends together they are fully stuffed,
(knots will be hidden inside toy) so do not be surprised
if they do not look like
Long loose
yarn end how you imagined.
If the cast-on method is for sewing
not specified, use your back seam
preferred technique

KNITTING THE LEGS AND ARMS

1 2 3
After the body and head, If the pattern calls for Completed The monkey’s arms
the legs and arms are long loose ends at the arm with are knitted exactly
usually the next pieces to knit cast-on and/or cast-off shaped top like the legs, except
for a toy and are often worked edges, this is to use for that the tops are
from the foot/hand upward. stitching when assembling shaped to have a
the toy. If you leave too slanted fit to the body.
little extra yarn, you can
join on a new piece, but it
is easier to use a strand
already attached to the
knitted work.

Keep knitting
tightly on all
pieces

Foot in a Completed leg Long yarn ends for

contrasting gathering cast-on
color stitches

KNITTING OTHER BODY PARTS

1 After the main pieces of

the toy are made, there
are usually other items to
2 If the pattern instructions do not call for long loose ends,
make sure you still leave a long enough yarn tail to darn
into the knitting (see p.120).
knit—for example, ears, hair,
and possibly clothes. Knit
these in the pattern order.
For the monkey, knit the
muzzle first.
Completed tail End of tail is shaped
swirls naturally into a point

Completed ears

Muzzle
 240 KNITTED TOYS
FINISHING THE TOY
Finishing the toy successfully is the most difficult part of the toy-knitting process. Take
TECHNIQUES
your time and sew slowly. Do not be afraid to rip out and redo any sewing that you are
unhappy with. The following finishing tips are useful for all knitted toys.
STUFFING AND ASSEMBLING THE MAIN TOY PIECES
Push knots
to inside
Stuff firmly
and evenly
3 Before starting seams
on the body, sew the
button eyes onto your toy
(or snap on safety eyes).
Position the monkey’s eyes
about three or four stitches
apart at the center of the
head. Use strong button
thread and an ordinary
sewing needle.
1 Follow finishing steps in the
order given. For the monkey,
prepare the legs first. Using the
long yarn end, weave in and out
of the cast-on stitches using
mattress stitch, then pull
to gather. Next, sew the leg
seam, stuffing as you proceed.
Sew toy seams
using mattress stitch
Eyes
Strong
button
thread
2 Pinch the end of each
leg together, with the
seam at the center of the
back of the leg, and sew
the end closed with whip
stitches. Prepare the other
leg in same way. Use a blunt-
ended yarn
needle for all
toy seams
Finished leg seam is
invisible at back of leg
4 Starting at the cast-on edge
and using mattress stitch,
sew 1in (2.5cm) of the back seam
on the body. Next, sew the lower
body seam with whip stitches,
catching in the legs as shown.
Position cast-off edge
of legs inside body
Back seam
Leg seams face
back of body
 FINISHING THE TOY 241

5 Continue the back body seam,

stuffing firmly with toy filling.
6 Continue the seam up the back of the
head. Make sure the head is firmly
packed with toy filling before completing
7 Prepare the arms in the same way
as the legs, but do not sew the tops
of the arms closed.
the seam. Secure the yarn with two or three
small stitches.

Stuff very
firmly all the
way to top
of head Leave end
open

Back of
head

Stuff firmly
and evenly Finished
arm seam
is invisible

Sew seam with

right-side
facing, using
mattress stitch

8 Look at the
photograph of the
toy in your pattern to
see how to position the
arms. On the monkey,
keep the arm ends open
so that they meet the
body in a circle and
slant downward.
Safety note: Only use
pins on toys when
absolutely necessary
9 Sew the arms in place,
turning the edge of the
arm inside the arm as you
and make sure that stitch. Remove the pins
none could be lost carefully as you stitch.
inside the toy.

Position top of arm just

below beginning of
shoulder shaping

Arm seam
faces body
 242 KNITTED TOYS

ADDING SMALL BODY PIECES AND FACIAL FEATURES

2 Trim the seam yarn to 2in (5cm) long

3 Pin the muzzle to the head just below
TECHNIQUES

and place inside the muzzle. Fill the the eyes, forming an oval shape covering
muzzle with toy filling. about 10 stitches across the face and about
12 rows. Sew the muzzle in place with short
Sew muzzle whip stitches.
seam using
mattress stitch
Fill firmly and
evenly with
toy filling

Muzzle

Seam at
center of
bottom
of muzzle
Gather cast-on
stitches before
sewing seam

1 Using the yarn end, sew in and out of the

cast-on stitches and pull to gather. Sew
the muzzle seam, starting at the cast-on end.

Darn in
yarn end
5 Using the gathering yarn, sew the ears
to the sides of the head. Position toy ears
following the photograph with your pattern.

Ear
Use long yarn
ends to sew on
small pieces

Gather
straight Pull stitches
edge tight so they
disappear

4 Make widely spaced whip stitches

along the straight edge of each ear.
Gather these stitches to form the ear 6 Sew the tail at the base of the monkey’s
back. Darn in the other yarn end at the
into a cup shape. cast-off edge of the tail.
 FINISHING THE TOY 243

7 Use a blunt-ended yarn needle and all six strands of the

embroidery thread for the facial features. Embroider the
mouth in backstitch along the center of the muzzle. Work toy
8 For each nostril, work two stitches in the same
place, the second on top of the first.

features carefully, redoing them if necessary.

Use thick enough

thread to make the
features stand out

9 For each eyebrow, work two stitches in

the same place, the second on top of
the first. The slant of the eyebrows will give
Slanting eyebrows upward
toward center gives an
innocent, relaxed expression
your toy its expression. To personalize your
toy, alter the position and size of the eyes,
and the shape of the mouth and eyebrows.

Even changing the ear

positions can give your
toy its unique look
 244

FELTED KNITTING
TECHNIQUES

When felted, knitting shrinks, and it is not possible to control the exact
amount of shrinkage. There are many things you can make from felted knitting that

do not require precise sizes, from pillow covers to simple bags. Motifs cut from felt

also make great embellishments for other knitting projects.

WET-FELTED BASICS
If you are a beginner, do not attempt a felted garment pattern until you have gained some experience with felting smaller items.
Before taking the plunge into a specific project, read the felting basics below and discover some helpful tips.

CHOOSING THE YARN PREPARING FOR TEST-FELTING

Superfine and lightweight

100 percent wool tweed yarn
will create a knitted felt of Trim off long yarn
8in (20cm)
average thickness. ends or they will
square felt into the knitting
Medium-weight wool-blend
yarn containing mohair will
felt very readily because of
Wrong side
the mohair content.

Medium-weight and bulky- By test-felting a swatch of your Knit a swatch of stockinette

weight 100 percent wool tweed yarn you can determine how
yarn will create a thick knitted felt. much it will shrink. However,
felting is not an exact science.
Washing machine agitation,
The best yarns for felted knitting are 100 percent wool yarns, and
water temperature, detergent
other animal fiber yarns, that have not been spun too tightly. As a
type, and yarn fiber content,
rule, the longer the fibers of a yarn, the more easily they felt. Avoid
spin, and color all vary.
wool yarns marked “machine washable.”
stitch at least 8in (20cm) square;
accurate shrinkage measurements
cannot be obtained with smaller
swatches. Block the swatch
carefully. If unblocked, the side
edges will felt too thickly due to
the curling.

HAND FELTING MACHINE FELTING TIPS FOR FELTING

First, hand-test the yarn to see if it will
felt. Roll a 36in (90cm) strand into a ball.
Add a drop of detergent and rub it
together for 2 minutes under hot running
water. If the yarn clumps and is difficult
to pull apart, it is a good candidate for
test-felting. Next, knit and block a 4in
(10cm) swatch. Submerge it in soapy
hand-hot water. Squeeze and knead it
gently, keep agitating and adding more
hot water for up to 30 minutes. Rinse
and squeeze out the water (do not
wring) and roll in a towel. Pat the felt,
right-side up, into a rectangle and let
it dry overnight. If the yarn has felted
successfully, test a bigger swatch in a
washing machine.
Put a swatch in the washing machine
along with a large towel (this increases
the agitation; use for all felting). Add
half the amount of detergent used for
a full load. Wash at 105˚F (40˚C) for yarn
that contains mohair, and 140˚F (60˚C)
for 100 percent wool yarns, using the full
washing and spin cycle. Tug the washed
swatch gently in both directions, lay it
right-side up, and pat it into a rectangle.
Let it dry completely. If necessary, do
more tests with new swatches, altering
the temperature or length of the wash
cycle. Keep records of gauge, needle
size, sizes of prefelted and felted
swatches, wash settings, and type
and amount of detergent.
• If you are trying felting for the first
time, make several test swatches in
different weights of yarn and felt them
together in the same load. This way you
can get a feel for the different
thicknesses of knitted felt.
• When using highly contrasting colors,
put a color catcher in the machine to
absorb loose dye and prevent colors
from running.
• Wool will fade slightly when felted,
due to the high temperatures and the
detergent, but this adds an attractive
quality to the felt.
• Clean your washing machine after a
felting load by wiping it out with a damp
cloth to remove any stray fibers.
 BEFORE AND AFTER FELTING 245

BEFORE AND AFTER FELTING

Knitting changes character when it is felted, becoming dense and usually shrinking
more lengthwise than widthwise. Integrated decorative effects can be achieved with
knitted stripes or embroidery worked onto the knitting prior to felting.

100 percent wool yarn: The wool yarn Width = 8in (20cm)
used for these samples is a lightweight,
loosely spun tweed. A 140˚F (60˚C) wash
was used to felt the knitting.
Width = 7in (18cm)

Length =
8in (20cm)
Length =
6in (15cm)

Swatch before felting Same swatch after felting

Mohair-mix yarn in stripes: The Width = 8in (20cm)

yarn used here is a medium-weight
mohair mix. A 105˚F (40˚C) wash
was used to felt the knitting. Felted
stripes merge together gently in
the felting process. When making Width = 61⁄2in (16.5cm)
striped knitting for felting, cut off
the old color each time a new color
is started and knot the yarn ends Length =
together at the edge of the knitting. 8in (20cm)
Clip off the yarn ends close to the
knot so that they do not become
Length =
6in (15cm)
felted into the knitting.

Swatch before felting Same swatch after felting

Felted knitting with embroidered Width = 8in (20cm)

lines: The yarn used here is the
same medium-weight mohair mix
used above; and the same felting
wash was used. Prior to felting,
contrasting horizontal lines were
Width = 53⁄4in (14.5cm)
embroidered in backstitch using
the same yarn as the base. This
embroidery merges attractively into
Length =
the felt. (Notice how the backstitch 8in (20cm)
shrinks and narrows the swatch
more than usual.) This technique Length =
can be used to integrate a variety 6in (15cm)
of embroidered motifs into felt.

Swatch before felting Same swatch after felting twice

 246 FELTED KNITTING
FELTED DECORATIONS
Felted knitting is a great base for embroidery because it is firm and stable. For a first
TECHNIQUES
project, felt a plain pillow cover then embroider with cotton stitches or, alternatively,
appliqué with motifs cut from contrasting knitted felt. Cutout motifs also make ideal
decorations for knitted hats or they can be made into stand-alone brooches.
EMBROIDERED FELTED KNITTING
Simple star stitches stand out
beautifully on knitted felt. Try this,
or other embroidery stitches, on an
8in (20cm) stockinette-stitch square
worked in lightweight 100 percent wool
yarn and felted as explained on p.244.
MAKING FELTED CUTOUT DECORATIONS
For a simple
flower, knit two 8in
(20cm) stockinette-
stitch squares—one
striped and one
plain—and felt as
explained on p.244.
Use a medium-
weight wool
yarn with some
13⁄4in (4.5cm)
mohair content.
tall heart
1 Make a paper template for
the petal shape and the circle
center. Tape the templates to the
wrong side of the felted pieces.
3 Lay one of the circles
wrong-side up, then pin
the petals wrong-side up
on top. Using a thread that
matches the circle and a
sharp sewing needle, sew
the petals to the circle with
running stitches, catching the
circle with each stitch but not
sewing all the way through it.
1 To work star stitches, mark the positions
for the stars with pins. Thread a sharp-
pointed crewel (embroidery) needle with a
contrasting doubled six-strand cotton
embroidery thread.
2 Work the two arms of the base crosses on
each star 3⁄4in (2cm) long and the arms of
the small crosses on top 5⁄8in (1.5cm) long.
3 Your finished sample provides a good
starting point for designing your own
pillow cover.
4 With the wrong side of
the petals still facing
upward, place the second
Back of
flower
Wrong side
of petal
felt circle right-side up
on top of the petals and
aligned with the circle
underneath. Sew the
circle in place with
neat whip stitches.
13⁄8in
(3.5cm)
circle
2 Using very sharp, small
scissors, cut out the
shapes, cutting through the
tape. Cut a total of five petals
and two circles.
5 Turn the flower over so it is right-side
up and decorate it with beads as here
or with contrasting embroidery.
1
⁄4in (5mm)
round glass
beads
Wrong
side of Right side
petal of petal
6
Sew a brooch pin to the
back and pin to a knitted
hat, or make more motifs to
embellish a pillow cover.
 RECYCLING YARN 247

USING UNUSUAL YARNS

Knitting is even more satisfying if you know you are helping the environment.
Unraveling old sweaters and reusing the yarn is the most obvious type of recycling for knitters.

But you can also choose more “unusual” yarns—rag strips and string—for your eco knitting.

RECYCLING YARN
Old sweaters are perfect candidates for recycling, whether they are hand-knit or machine-made.
The thickness of the yarn is irrelevant, since you can use thin strands doubled or tripled to create
yarns thick enough for knitting by hand.

PREPARING RECYCLED YARN

1 Carefully undo all

of the seams. This
is very easy on some
manufactured sweaters
because the seams pull
out in a chain. Cut other
seams stitch by stitch
with sharp scissors.
2 Unravel the knitting,
starting at the top
and winding the yarn
into a ball as you
proceed. If the yarn
breaks, simply knot the
ends together to form
a continuous strand. To
straighten the unraveled
yarn, wind it into a hank
and steam or wash. Hang
it up to dry.

KNITTING WITH VARIEGATED RECYCLED YARN

1 To enliven your rescued

yarns, cut them in 12–24in
(30–61cm) pieces and knot
together to form a unique yarn
with variegated colors. Use yarns
of similar thicknesses, doubling
thin yarns, if necessary.

Completed
trimmed knot

2 Roll the newly formed

yarn into a ball as you
3 Use the yarn for your chosen project. A garter stitch
scarf is perfect for showing off your unique variegated
yarn. The knots become a decorative feature, so make
knot the ends together. sure some fall on each side of the scarf.
 248 USING UNUSUAL YARNS

RAG KNITTING
Old shirts, cotton blouses, and patchwork remnants provide the best fabrics to recycle
TECHNIQUES

for rag knitting. Knitting thicker fabric strips is strenuous on the hands, and very thin
fabrics are more liable to tear during the knitting process.

PREPARING RAG STRIPS

1 To make your rag “yarn,” start by trimming

the fabric pieces into even, straight-edged
shapes. Press remnants and cut off ragged
edges. On clothing, trim off all seams, then
press the fabric.
2 Cut or tear the fabric to form
a continuous strip, making the
cuts/tears 1in (2.5cm) apart in the
3 As you cut the strip, wind it into a ball.
Stretchy T-shirt yarn rolls into a tube as
you do this. At the end of a strip, knot on the
order shown. Stop each cut/tear next strip of the same color. Keep the fabric
about 5⁄8in (1.5cm) from the colors separate so that you can create
fabric edge. patterns in your knitting.

8 6 4 2

9 7 5 3 1

KNITTING WITH RAG STRIPS

1 Garter stitch is the

easiest stitch to work
with rag strips. For 1in
2 Add interest by
working in stripes.
To change colors, knot
3 When you finish
your rag knitting,
cast off the stitches
(2.5cm) wide patchwork- on the new color (see knitwise (see p.106).
fabric-weight cotton p.247). Position the knot
strips, use US15 as close as possible to
(10mm) needles. the edge of the knitting.

Backward loop
cast-on is ideal for

4
rag knitting You can use your rag knitting to
make a rag rug or a simple bag. For
a bag, make one long rectangle, fold it in
Trim ends to 11⁄4in
half (with the knots inside) and sew the
(3cm) from knot
seams using sewing thread. Add a
braided bag handle.
 PLARN KNITTING 249

PLARN KNITTING
Most of us have a collection of plastic shopping bags. Repurpose these by cutting them
into strips and knitting them into a unique “bag for life.” Because plastic strips (called
plarn) are so flexible, they are even easier to knit with than rag strips.

PREPARING PLARN STRIPS

1 Select lightweight plastic bags, since these

are easier to knit with than thicker ones and
produce a springier fabric. To cut strips, smooth
2 Smooth the bag flat again and fold at the second,
third, and fourth fold lines, as shown, smoothing
the bag flat after each fold.
the bag out flat, then fold it in half lengthwise.
Center fold line

2nd fold line

Fold line 3rd

fold
line

4th
fold
line

3 Trim the handles and the bottom seam of the

folded bag. Cut segments 11⁄4in (3cm) wide; each
of these form a ring of plastic. Keep these rings
4 To link the rings together, lay one ring out horizontally on the table.
Lay a second ring out vertically next to it. Then pass the first ring
through the top of the second ring and pass the tail of the second ring
folded until required. through the center of the first ring. Pull the tail of the second ring to
knot it tightly to one end of the first.

Trim off Trim off

handles here seam here

Knots
linking
rings

5 Continue looping the rings

together, rolling the continuous
strip into a ball. When the ball gets
too big to handle, start a new one.
 250 USING UNUSUAL YARNS

KNITTING WITH PLARN STRIPS

TECHNIQUES

1 Plarn is very easy to knit into a tube that can be

used to make a bag. Prepare the plarn (see previous
page) and cast your stitches onto a US 13 (9mm)
circular knitting needle. Knit every round to form
stockinette stitch (see p.114).
2 At the top of the tube work several rounds in knit and purl alternately
to form a garter stitch border. (For handles, cast off and cast on stitches
in the first two rounds to form a slot on each side.) Sew the bottom seam
with whip stitches and a blunt-ended yarn needle threaded with plarn.

KNITTING WITH STRING

If you have balls of old string languishing in a drawer, why not put them to use by
knitting them into a useful household item? Because of its relative stiffness, string is
perfect for making knitted boxes. Hemp is an excellent environmentally neutral choice.

DESIGNING A STRING BOX KNITTING A STRING BOX

Choose a twine of medium thickness. Brightly colored strings are

useful for adding contrasting seams or a border. Using a needle
size that will produce a very stiff fabric, knit a gauge swatch and
calculate how many stitches to cast on for the sides of your box.
1 So that the top edge of the box won’t curl, begin
each of the four sides of the box with two rows of
garter stitch. Complete each side in stockinette stitch
and cast off knitwise on the right side.
 KNITTING WITH STRING 251

2 Once the four sides are

complete, work the base in
stockinette stitch only, making
sure the sides fit it exactly.

4 Use contrasting string and a blunt-

ended yarn needle to sew the seams.

3 Arrange the four sides

around the base of the
box as shown.
Sew one side to the base with wrong
sides together using spaced whip stitches
(see p.215).

6 Sew the seams joining the sides

together in the same way.

5 Sew the three remaining sides

to the base in the same way.
 252

ARM KNITTING
TECHNIQUES

Arm knitting is a great way to learn to knit because it makes big stitches; your
project grows really fast and you can make a small blanket in less than an hour. Because there

are no needles, it is easier to understand how the stitches are made, which means that you

will be able to experiment with more confidence and maybe even design your own projects.

STARTING OFF
Every arm knitting project begins with a slip knot and cast-on stitches. If your item is to be
seamed, leave a long tail of yarn at the start, finish, and at any joins to make sewing up easier.
Before you start, gather all the necessary materials and read the instructions thoroughly.

MAKING A SLIP KNOT

1 Leaving a long tail for casting on

(47in [1.2m] for every 10 stitches),
cross the tail over the working yarn to
2 Hold the yarn tail with one hand and
pull it tight, creating a loop at the
center of the circle.
3 Place the loop on your right wrist; the yarn
tail is in front facing you and the working
yarn is extending from the back. Tighten the
create a circle. Place the tail under the slip knot, but leave a loose loop on your wrist.
circle, extending it across the center.
Keep
loop
slightly
Pull to loose
tighten

Tail

The tail Working

goes under yarn
the circle
Tail

SIMPLE CAST-ON

Thumb
captures
This cast-on uses less yarn
than the Long-tail cast-on
(opposite) but is not as firm.
2 Drop your hand forward,
between the yarns.
Continue to twist it so that it
Palm twists to
be uppermost
the yarn is palm-up, pointing upward

1 Make a slip knot (see above)

and slip the knot over your
right wrist. With the yarn going
and the yarn is wrapped
around the hand.

to the ball leading to the left,

hold your left hand palm-down
over the yarn, and use your
left thumb to gently hold
the yarn in your palm.

Working yarn
 STARTING OFF 253

3 Slide your right hand

upward under the
yarn that is across the left Slide your
4 Slide the loop down and onto your
right arm. Repeat Steps 1–3 to cast
on the required number of stitches.
palm. Continue to slide hand under
your right hand until the the yarn
loop slides completely
onto your right hand. Stitches
You’ve now made two
accumulating
up the arm
stitches.

Working yarn

LONG TAIL CAST-ON

1 Leaving a tail three times the length of

the intended cast-on, make a slip knot
on your right wrist. Place the yarn tail behind
2 Slide your right hand under the slingshot,
entering upward through the loop on the
side of your left thumb.
3 With your right hand, grab the working
yarn that’s wrapped around the front
of your index finger.
your left thumb, and the working yarn
behind your left index finger. Spread your
fingers to create a “slingshot” of yarn.

Slide your
hand under Working
the yarn yarn

Working
yarn

Tail

4 Pull the loop through and

onto your right hand. 5 Pull the working yarn and tail to tighten
the loop, making sure to leave enough
room to pull the loop off your hand when
6 Repeat these steps to cast on the
number of stitches required by the
pattern, keeping in mind that your slip
you begin knitting. knot counts as the first cast-on stitch.
Pull the loop
onto your hand
6 5 4 3 2 1

Pull

Tail
 254 ARM KNITTING

STITCHES
The two foundation stitches of knitting are the knit stitch and the purl stitch. In arm
TECHNIQUES

knitting these are made not by turning the work, but by working back and forth on your
arms. When the stitches are on your left arm, the right side of the loop will be the front leg.
When the stitches are on your right arm, the left side of the loop will be the front leg.

KNIT STITCH

1 The most basic stitch is knit stitch; knitting

every row creates a stockinette stitch.
Since you cannot turn the work at the end
2 Place the working yarn over your right
thumb from front to back, with the tail
moving away from you, and close your
3 Slip the cast-on stitch closest to the thumb
off your arm and over your hand.

of a row, the right side of the work always fingers over the yarn.
faces you.
Working
yarn

Working
yarn

Cast-on
Working stitch
yarn Tail

4 Drop the cast-on stitch while still

grasping the working yarn. 5 Slide your left hand upward
under the closest loop on
your right hand.

Cast-on
stitch
Working
yarn Working
yarn

6 Slide the loop onto your left wrist;

this twists the loop so the right side
is the front leg.
7 Pull gently on the working yarn to tighten
the stitch around your left arm. 8 Repeat Steps 2–7 until all the stitches have
been moved from one arm to the other.
For the next row, reverse the instructions,
Pull to transferring all the stitches back to the right
tighten arm. This creates a stockinette stitch.

The right side

always faces you
 STITCHES 255

PURL STITCH

1 Holding the yarn in front of the work,

place the yarn from front to back, across
your arm in the space between the first two
2 Reach through the first stitch, grabbing the working
yarn with your left hand and pulling the working
yarn through to create a new stitch.
stitches closest to your hand. Release the
working yarn.

Working Pull the working

yarn yarn through

Stitch 2 Stitch 1

Stitch 2

Stitch 1

3 Drop the old

stitch off your
right arm.
New
stitch
Working
yarn 4 Place the new
stitch on to your
opposite arm.

Pull your
right hand
out to drop
the old stitch

5 Pull on the working yarn

to tighten the loop.
When working purl, make
6 Repeat Steps 1–5 until you’ve moved all
the stitches from one arm to the other.
Alternating rows of knit and purl stitches
sure the working yarn is creates a garter stitch.
extending from the front
leg of the stitch, otherwise Pull the
the stitch will twist. working
yarn
 256 ARM KNITTING

INCREASING
Some arm-knitting patterns may call for shaping, which means you’ll have to increase
TECHNIQUES

(and decrease, see opposite) the number of stitches. Techniques that work well in arm
knitting are worked on (“yarn over”) or near (“make one”) the edges of the knitting.

YARN OVER AT BEGINNING OF KNIT ROW (Abbreviation = yo)

1 Lay the working yarn

from front to back over
your left wrist. (We show
the working yarn passing
the stitches from your right
to your left hand.)
2 Keeping the working yarn
wrapped around your left
wrist, use your right thumb to
bring the yarn forward between
your hands.
Working
yarn
3 Make sure the yarn goes
front to back over your right
thumb. Without dropping the
4 Transfer the new stitch to
your left hand. Continue
working across the row.
left-hand loop, pull the first
stitch over as normal.

Working
yarn

MAKE ONE ON A KNIT ROW (Abbreviation = M1)

1 Knit the first stitch as normal. Pull your

hands slightly apart to reveal the bar
stretching between the stitches on your hands.
2 Put your left hand from front to back
(palm-down) under the bar between the
stitches until the bar is at your knuckles.
3 Twist your left hand to the left, curling
your fingers to keep the bar from slipping
off. This movement will twist the bar into a
loop on your hand.

Bar

4 Slide your right hand along the back of

your left hand from fingers to wrist, taking
it through the twisted loop.
5 Pull the yarn through the twisted loop,
sliding the loop off your left hand as
you do so.
6 Transfer the new stitch from your
right hand to your left. Continue
to work the row.
Twisted loop

Fingers are
curled on left
hand to keep
loop secure

New stitch
made
 DECREASING 257

DECREASING
Combining two stitches into one gives shape to the work. The two decreasing methods shown
(knit 2 together and slip slip knit) result in stitches that lean in different directions—which
direction depends on which arm the stitch is on.

KNIT 2 TOGETHER (Abbreviation = k2tog)

1 Knit until you reach the place

where you want to decrease. End
with the working yarn over your right
2 Pull two stitches over your hand
(rather than one stitch, which is
what you would do for a knit stitch).
3 Put the new loop on your arm.
You’ve decreased one stitch.
Continue knitting as usual.
thumb, as if you were going to knit
the next stitch.

Pull both New

stitches over at combined
Working the same time stitch
yarn

SLIP SLIP KNIT (Abbreviation = ssk)

1 Knit until you reach the place where

you want to decrease and then slip
the next two stitches, one at a time, from
2 Lay the working yarn from front
to back over your left thumb. 3 Pull the two slipped stitches
over your hand and drop them.
You have decreased one stitch.
one arm to the other. Keep your fingertips
together so that the stitches slip straight
from one hand to the other.
Pull the
Working two slipped
yarn stitches over
Front leg
of the stitch
 258 ARM KNITTING

CASTING OFF
When you’ve finished arm knitting you’ll need to remove the stitches from your arms.
TECHNIQUES

Casting off will prevent them from unraveling. You can start to cast off from either arm,
but here it is shown from the right arm.

CASTING OFF

This method closes the

stitches so they don’t come
apart. It’s similar to knitting,
2 Grasp the
stitch closest
to your left elbow.
except you’ll remove the
stitches from your arm as
you work across the row.

1 Work the first two

stitches of the row in
the same stitch you’ve
been using in the project.

Knit
stitches

3 Pull that stitch over the stitch closest

to your left hand and then pull it off
your left arm.
4 Drop the stitch. You should now have only
one stitch remaining on your left arm. 5 Work another stitch on your right arm.
You’ll have two stitches on your arm.

Pull over and

off your hand

Knit stitch

6 Grasp the stitch closest to your left elbow

and pull it over the stitch closest to your
left hand and then pull it off your left arm.
7 Remove the stitch from your left wrist and
then pull the yarn tail through the loop of
the last stitch. Pull the yarn taut to secure it.
A cast-off creates a chain
of loops that look like a
braid along the edge.
Keep repeating Step 5 and this one until only
one stitch remains on your left arm. Cut the
working yarn, leaving a long tail for weaving. Last stitch

Yarn tail

Working
yarn
 FINISHING 259

FINISHING
If your project requires seaming, whip stitch (visible) or mattress stitch (invisible) are the best
options; avoid using backstitch on arm knits as it is too bulky. After casting off, you’ll need to
secure the ends by weaving them in (see below) or needle-felting them down.

WHIP STITCH (ALSO KNOWN AS OVERCAST STITCH)

1 Insert the seaming yarn (shown in orange)

from the bottom to the top through the
bottom-right corner stitch of both pieces. (If
you’re using separate yarn rather than an
existing tail, leave a long tail for weaving in.)
2 Insert the seaming yarn from the
bottom to the top of the next set of
stitches. The seaming yarn will wrap
3 Repeat Step 3, working your way
up the seam and lining up the
stitches as evenly as possible, until
around the outside of the work. you’ve seamed the entire edge.

Seaming
yarn

Wrong sides Insert from top Line up the top and

together to bottom bottom pieces evenly

MATTRESS STITCH

1 Line up the pieces side by

side. Stretch the side edges
of both pieces to reveal the
2 Insert the seaming tail
under the first bar on the
right piece.
3 Insert the seaming tail
under the second bar on
the left piece.
4 Continue weaving upward,
moving side to side, going
under each bar. After working
small “bars.” Insert the seaming five bars, pull (firmly but not too
tail (shown in orange) under the tightly) on both ends of the yarn
first bar on the left piece. to join the pieces and hide the
stitches.
Right sides up
Pull

First left bar First right bar Next bar Pull

WEAVING IN ENDS

1 Working on the wrong side of the piece,

weave the tail (shown in orange) through
the nearest stitch.
2 Following the shape of the next stitches,
weave the tail through those. 3 Keep weaving until you’ve woven in the
entire tail, then tuck the end into one of
the nearest stitches to secure it.

Tail woven through Tail tucked

the stitches in neatly
Tail
 260 ARM KNITTING

ADDING MORE YARN

If you find that the ball of yarn has run out in the middle of a row you’ll need to learn how to
TECHNIQUES

join in a new yarn, but its generally best to join in new yarns at the start of a row. The spit
splice works best if you’re knitting with natural fibers.

SPIT SPLICE

1 To join new yarn of the

same color as your working
yarn, start with the end from
your project and one from the
new yarn.
2 Untwist about 3in (8cm) of
the plies on each yarn end
and then overlap them, with the
tails going in opposite directions.
3 Soak the ends with water.
Place the ends on one hand
and then rub both palms
together vigorously to agitate
the ends.
4 You can stop rubbing your
hands together when the
two ends look like a single
strand of yarn, indicating that
they’ve felted together.

Project yarn end

Wet the yarn ends

Untwist
the yarn
ends
New yarn end

JOINING IN YARNS OR CHANGING COLORS

It’s important to make

a secure knot when
joining in new yarn.
2 While holding the
new yarn in your
right hand, take the
Pull the first
stitch over your
first stitch of the row right hand
1 At the start of a new
row, hold the new yarn
with your left hand, leaving
and begin to pull it
over your hand.

a tail about 10in (25cm)

long, then knot the new
yarn loosely around the
working yarn.

Gray yarn is
being added to
knitted pink yarn

3 Pull the first stitch of the

row completely over your
hand and let it drop off.
New
stitch
4 Place the new stitch on
your left arm. Continue
knitting as usual, using the
new yarn.

First stitch
of the row
 ADDITIONAL TECHNIQUES 261

ADDITIONAL TECHNIQUES
Despite arm knitting being easy, managing multiple strands can be a bit of a nightmare, with
odd strands being left out of stitches or pulled. Chain plying is a technique for preparing yarn
that can make managing the yarn easier while bringing design flair to plain knits.

CHAIN PLYING TECHNIQUE

Create a chainette type yarn to turn

multiple thinner strands into a thicker,
more manageable strand.
2 Holding the slip knot and tail in your left
hand, reach through the loop with your
right hand to pull up on the working yarn,
3 Drop the slip knot, and use your left hand
to hold all three strands halfway along the
length of the second loop. Reach through the
drawing it through the loop to create a second right end of the loop to draw out the working

1 Make a slip knot, pulling the yarn loop

until it’s about 12in (30cm) long.
loop, about 12in (30cm) long. yarn to create a third loop, 12in (30cm) long.
Repeat this step to chain ply the entire ball.

Working yarn
Hold the midpoint of the second
Slip knot loop as well as the working yarn
Slip knot
Loop Working
yarn

Second
Loop loop

PICKING UP STITCHES

1 Hold the knitted piece right side

up, with the edge you want to pick
up stitches from at the top.
2 Place your hand through the center of
the first V-shaped stitch and grasp your
working yarn. Leaving a long tail for weaving
3 Place the loop on your
right arm, with the
working yarn extending
in later, pull the working yarn through the from the stitch’s front leg.
Working
stitch, creating a loop.
yarn
Right
side up

Working
yarn

4 Place your right hand through the center

of the next V-shaped stitch and pull up
another loop.
5 Place the loop on your right arm once
again, with the working yarn extending
from the stitch’s front leg.
6 Repeat Steps 4 and 5 across the edge,
pulling up a loop from each V-shaped
stitch until you’ve picked up the number
Second of stitches instructed in the pattern.
Pull the loop through picked-up
the center of the stitch stitch 6 5 4 3 2 1
PROJECTS
 HARLEQUIN SCARF 265

HARLEQUIN SCARF Level of difficulty

Experiment with blending color in this super-warm scarf. By holding two strands

PROJECTS
of this soft mohair together as you knit, the combined colors will create a mélange yarn effect.

The scarf is worked as a bias knit (p.178) with increases and decreases on the edge.

TECHNIQUES USED Twisted double cast-on p.97, Single ribbing p.115, Casting off in rib effect p.107

SIZE PATTERN
5 ⁄4in (14cm) wide x 6 ⁄2ft (2m) long
3 1
Note: The entire scarf is made by holding
approx. two strands of yarn together. For example,
the first stripe uses two strands of yarn A,
therefore referred to as AA. Yarn AB is one
YARN
strand of A and one of B, and so on.
Rowan Kidsilk Haze—25g (70% mohair, Using yarn AA, cast on 50sts using a
30% silk) stretchy method suitable for single rib.
Row 1 (WS): [K1, p1] to end.
Row 2: S1, p1, psso, [k1, p1] to last 2sts, k1,
[p1, k1] into next st. (50sts)
A B C D Row 3: [P1, k1] to last 2sts, p2.
Row 4: S1 k1 psso, [p1, k1] to last 2sts, p1
A: 632 Hurricane x 3 [k1, p1] into next st. (50sts)
B: 582 Trance x 2 Last 4 rows set diagonal pattern. Work a
C: 605 Smoke x 2 further 24 rows as set.
D: 664 Steel x 2 Working in diagonal pattern as set, break
off one strand of yarn and join in one of
yarn B. Commence stripe pattern as set,
NEEDLES working 28 rows in each color pattern.
1 pair of US6 (UK8/4mm) needles AB, BB, BC, CC, CD, DD, DA, AA, AD, DD, DC,
CC, CB, BB, BA, AA.
17 stripes worked in total.
Cast off using a stretchy cast-off method. Fine mohair really lends itself to the
GAUGE darning-in process (see p.120). The ends are
Darn in all ends.
26sts and 31 rows to 4in (10cm) over well hidden beneath the furry surface fibers.
rib with yarn held double

USE OF COLOR

AA AB BB BC CC CD DD DA AA AD DD DC CC CB BB BA AA
See how a gradient of color is
created from the use of two of
the four colors of yarns—A, B, C,
and D—at the same time.
 DELICATE LACE SHAWL 267

DELICATE LACE SHAWL Level of difficulty

Knitting a luxurious, lace-weight shawl can be a little tricky, but the result is truly

PROJECTS
rewarding. This gossamer shawl will add an elegant touch to any outfit, and the mohair blend feels

soft and warm against the skin. Knits and purls add texture to this pretty bouquet lace pattern.

TECHNIQUES USED Knit-on cast-on p.92, Stockinette stitch p.114, Garter stitch p.114, Casting off knitwise p.106

SIZE PATTERN COMMENCE PATTERN

20in x 51in (50cm x 130cm) approx. Using a knit-on cast-on and US10
(UK4/6mm) needles, cast on 190sts.
Change to US7 (UK7/4.5mm) needles
YARN
and cont as follows:
Rowan Kidsilk Haze—25g (70% mohair,
30% silk) WORK EDGING
Row 1 (WS): K.
Row 2: [Knit but wrap yarn twice around
needle, bringing both loops through] to end.
Row 3: [Purl into one of two loops in next
679 Mulberry x 4
stitch, knock off other loop] to end. Change
to US5 (UK9/3.75mm) needles.
NEEDLES Row 4: [K2tog] to end. (95sts)
A: 1 pair of US5 (UK9/3.75mm) needles
B: 1 pair of US7 (UK7/4.5mm) needles
C: 1 pair of US10 (UK4/6mm) needles
A
B
Row 1: K3, *[p2, k1] twice, yo, k2tog, yo, k1,
yo, s1 k1 psso, yo, [k1, p2] twice, k1; repeat
from * to last 2sts, k2. (105sts)
Row 2: K2, [p1, k2] twice, p9, *k2, [p1, k2]
three times, p9; repeat from * to last 8sts,
k2, [p1, k2] twice.
Row 3: K3, *[p2, k1] twice, yo, k2tog, yo, k3,
yo, s1 k1 psso, yo [k1, p2] twice, k1; rep from
* to last 2sts, k2. (115sts)
Row 4: K2, [p1, k2] twice, p11, *k2, [p1, k2]
three times, p11; repeat from * to last 8sts,
k2, [p1, k2] twice.
Row 5: K3, *[p2tog, k1] twice, yo, k2tog, yo,
s1 k1 psso, k1, k2tog, yo, s1 k1 psso, yo, [k1,
p2tog] twice, k1; repeat from * to last 2sts,
k2. (95sts)

GAUGE
19sts and 28 rows to 4in (10cm)
over patt

Casting on with larger needles creates a soft

edge, and working a row of dropped stitches,
followed by knitting stitches together,
produces the frilled edge.
 268 PROJECTS
Row 6: K2, [p1, k1] twice, p11, *k1, [p1, k1]
three times, p11; repeat from * to last 6sts,
[k1, p1] twice, k2.
Row 7: K3, *[p1, k1] twice, yo, k2tog, yo, k1
PROJECTS
tbl, yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k1 tbl, yo, s1 k1
psso, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1; repeat from * to
last 2sts, k2. (105sts)
Row 8: K2, [p1, k1] twice, p13, *k1, [p1, k1]
three times, p13; repeat from * to last 6sts,
[k1, p1] twice, k2.
Row 9: K3, *[k2tog] twice, yo, k2tog, yo, k3,
yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, s1 k1 psso, yo [s1, k1, psso]
twice, k1; repeat from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 10: K2, p to last 2sts, k2.
Row 11: K3, *[k2tog, yo] twice, s1 k1 psso,
k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, s1 k1 psso, k1, k2tog,
[yo, s1, k1, psso] twice, k1; repeat from * to
last 2sts, k2. (95sts)
Row 12: As row 10.
Row 13: K2, [k2tog, yo] twice, k1 tbl, yo, s1
k2tog psso, yo, k3, yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k1
tbl, yo, s1 k1 psso, *yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo,
k2tog, yo, k1 tbl, yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k3, yo,
s1 k2tog psso, yo, k1 tbl, yo, s1, k1, psso;
repeat from * to last 4sts, yo, s1 k1 psso, k2.
Row 14: As row 10.
Row 15: K3, *yo, s1 k1 psso, yo, [k1, p2] four
times, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to
last 2sts, k2. (105sts)
Row 16: K2, p5, [k2, p1] three times, k2, *p9,
[k2, p1] three times, k2; repeat from * to last
7sts, p5, k2.
Row 17: K4, yo, s1 k1 psso, yo, [k1, p2] four
times, k1, yo, k2tog, *yo, k3, yo, s1 k1 psso,
yo, [k1, p2] four times, k1, yo, k2tog; repeat
Yarn-over increases and several different
decreases create the delicate floral bouquets
and filigree diamonds.
from * to last 4sts, yo, k4. (115sts) These 28 rows set lace patt. Repeat rows
Row 18: K2, p6, [k2, p1] three times, k2, 1–28 twelve times more, ending with a
*p11, [k2, p1] three times, k2; repeat from * WS row.
to last 8sts, p6, k2.
Row 19: K3, *k2tog, yo, s1 k1 psso, yo, [k1, WORK TOP EDGING
p2tog] four times, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, s1 k1 Row 1 (RS): [(K1, p1) into next stitch] to
psso, k1; rep from * to last 2sts, k2. (95sts) end. (190sts)
Row 20: K2, p6, [k1, p1] three times, k1, Change to US7 (UK7/4.5mm) needles and
*p11, [k1, p1] three times, k1; rep from * to work as follows:
last 8sts, p6, k2. Row 2: [Purl but wrap yarn twice around
Row 21: K2, k2tog, yo, k1 tbl, yo, s1 k1 psso, needle, bringing both loops through] to end.
yo, [k1, p1] four times, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k1 Row 3: [Knit into one of two loops in next
tbl, *yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k1 tbl, yo, s1 k1 stitch, knock off other loop] to end.
psso, yo, [k1, p1] four times, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, Cast off using a US10 (UK4/6mm) needle.
k1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4sts, yo, s1 k1
psso, k2. (105sts) Handwash and wet block (see p.213),
Row 22: K2, p7, [k1, p1] three times, k1, making sure to stretch lace pattern out
*p13, [k1, p1] three times, k1; repeat from * until visible and keep edges of scarf
to last 9sts, p7, k2. straight. Blocking wires (see p.44) would be
Row 23: K3, *yo, k3, yo, s1 k1 psso, yo, [s1 k1, useful for keeping the edges straight.
psso] twice, k1, [k2tog] twice, yo, k2tog, yo,
k3, yo, k1; repeat from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 24: As row 10.
Row 25: K3, * yo, s1 k1 psso, k1, k2tog, [yo,
s1 k1 psso] twice, k1, [k2tog, yo] twice, s1 k1
psso, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to last
2sts, k2. (95sts)
Row 26: As row 10.
Row 27: K4, yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k1 tbl, yo,
s1 k1 psso, yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k2tog, yo,
k1 tbl, yo, s1 k2tog psso, *yo, k3, yo, s1 k2tog
psso, yo, k1 tbl, yo, s1 k1 psso, yo, s1 k2tog
psso, yo, k2tog, yo, k1 tbl, yo, s1 k2tog psso;
repeat from * to last 4sts, yo, k4.
Row 28: As row 10.
DELICATE LACE SHAWL 269

CABLED ARMWARMERS
When you want to keep cozy but need your fingers to remain free, reach for these
practical and stylish armwarmers. The cable is easy to follow, with a simple, buttonhole-style
thumb opening. You could also knit these on a circular needle using a Magic Loop (see p.188).
TECHNIQUES USED Cable cast-on p.93, Working with a set of four double-pointed needles p.191, Cables p.147, Single cast-on p.91, Casting off in rib effect p.107
SIZE PATTERN
To fit an average adult woman LEFT ARMWARMER
Using cable cast-on and US7 (UK7/4.5mm)
needles, cast on 40sts on to one needle.
YARN
Divide these sts between three dpns: 13sts
Knit Picks DK City Tweed—50g (55% merino,
on needles 1 and 3, and 14sts on needle 2.
25% superfine alpaca, 20% Donegal tweed) Working 10 circular rounds of 1 x 1 rib
as follows:
*K1, p1 rep from * to end of round, joining
after the first round (see p.186).
Increase round: Rib 14, M1p, [rib 4, M1p]
Cobalt x 2
three times, rib to end of round. (44sts)
You should now have 13sts on needles 1
NEEDLES and 3, and 18sts on needle 2.
A: 4 x US7 (UK7/4.5mm) double-pointed Set Cable Panel
needles Rib 13, work next 18 sts from chart, rib 13.
Rep last row until work measures 9in
B: Cable needle
(22cm).**
A 2 rounds after the last cable row.
Shape Thumb
Round 1: Rib 3, cast off 6sts, patt to end
B of round. (38sts)
Round 2: Rib 3, cast on 4sts using single
cast-on method, work in patt to end of
GAUGE
round. (42sts)
20sts and 28 rows to 4in (10cm) over 2 x 2 rib
Round 3: K1, p1, k2, p1, k2, work in patt
using US7 (UK7/4.5mm) needles
to end of round.
Rep round 3 until work measures 11⁄4in
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS (3cm) from thumb opening, ending at least
C6F (cable 6 front) 2 rounds after the last cable row.
RS: S3 to cable needle, hold in front, k3, k3
from cable needle.
C6B (cable 6 back) CABLE CHART
RS: S3 to cable needle, hold in back, k3, k3 10
from cable needle.
8 KEY
6
4
2
CABLED ARMWARMERS 271
Level of difficulty
PROJECTS
Dec round: Patt 3, k2tog tbl, patt 8, k2tog
tbl, k2, k2tog, p2, k2tog tbl, k2, k2tog patt
to last 2 sts, p2tog. (36sts)
Change to 2 x 2 rib as follows:
Next round: K1, [p2, k2] to last 3sts, p2, k1.
Rep last round four more times.
Cast off in rib. Darn in ends.
RIGHT ARMWARMER
Work as given for Left armwarmer to **.
Shape Thumb
Round 1: Work in patt as set to last 9sts.
Cast off 6sts, rib to end of round. (38sts)
Round 2: Work in patt as set to last 3sts,
cast on 4sts, patt to end. (42sts)
Round 3: Patt to last 7sts, k2, p1, k2, p1, k1.
Rep round 3 until work measures 11⁄4in
(3cm) from thumb opening, ending at least
Dec round: P2tog, patt 13, k2tog tbl, k2,
k2tog, p2, k2tog tbl, k2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1,
p1, k2, k2tog tbl, k1, p1, k1. (36sts)
Next round: K1, [p2, k2] to last 3sts, p2, k1.
Rep last round 4 times.
Cast off in rib. Darn in ends.
Handwash each armwarmer, reshape, and
dry flat.
9
7
P on RS rows, k on WS rows
5 K on RS rows, p on WS rows
3
C6F
1
C6B
 TEXTURED WOMEN’S SHRUG 273

TEXTURED WOMEN’S SHRUG Level of difficulty

Wrap yourself up in this cozy shrug and let others marvel at the impressive

PROJECTS
cable on the back, which is composed of both stockinette and garter stitches. The surrounding

fabric is in a simple textural combination of knit and purl known as box stitch.

TECHNIQUES USED Provisional cast-on p.101, Cables p.147, Circular knitting p.191, Picking up stitches p.196

SIZE NOTIONS stitch pattern is not shown in the chart.

Small— 37in (94cm) wide by 23 ⁄4in1
Stitch markers, at least 2
(59cm) deep Stitch holders x 2
Medium—393⁄4in (101cm) wide by 24in A long piece of smooth, light-colored
(61cm) deep yarn (or a spare circular needle) to hold
Large— 42in (107cm) wide by 243⁄4in a large number of stitches.
(63cm) deep USL (UK1/8mm) crochet hook
Smooth contrast-color yarn for the
YARN provisional cast-on
Rowan Cocoon—100g (80% merino wool, Large-eyed sewing needle
20% kid mohair)
GAUGE
12.5sts and 20 rows to 4in (10cm)
over box stitch using US11 (UK0/8mm)
812 Bilberry x 5 (5,6) needles
NEEDLES PATTERN
A: US10 (UK4/6mm) x 32in (80cm) The Cable Panel chart is given on p.274.
circular needle The chart is read from right to left for odd
number rows and left to right for even
B: US101⁄2 (UK3/6.5mm) x 32in (80cm)
number rows. Once one repeat of the chart
circular needle
has been completed, the repeat starts at
C: US11 (UK0/8mm) x 32in (80cm) row 3 and ends on row 26 of the chart.
circular needle
D: US L/11 (UK0/8mm) crochet hook BOX STITCH
4 stitch plus 2sts by 4 row repeat
E: Cable needle
Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2sts,
F: Extra US11 (UK0/8mm) needle for
k2.
working the seam join Row 2: *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2sts, p2.
A Row 3: *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2sts, p2.
Row 4: *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
B
The main body of the shrug can be knitted
on straight needles but, due to the large
number of stitches, it is easier to work
back and forth on a circular needle. The
neckband/front/bottom edging is worked
in the round using a circular needle.
The knitted fabric is reversible so it can be
helpful to attach a locking stitch marker or
thread of contrast-color yarn to the right
side of the fabric.
SHRUG BODY
Using a Provisional crochet cast-on with
a contrast-color smooth yarn and US L11
(UK1/8mm) crochet hook, cast on 114
(122,130) sts.
Using main yarn and US11 (UK0/8mm)
needles, set up pattern as follows:
Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * until 40
(44,48) sts have been worked, k2, pm, follow
chart (row 1), pm, *k2, p2; rep from * to last
2sts, k2.
Row 2: *P2, k2: rep from * to 2sts before
marker, p2, sm, follow chart (row 2), sm,
*p2, k2; rep from * to last 2sts, p2.
Row 3: *P2, k2: rep from * to 2sts before
marker, p2, sm, follow chart (row 3), sm,
*p2, k2; rep from * to last 2sts, p2.

C
KNITTING NOTES
Special abbreviations:
D pm = place stitch marker
sm = slip stitch marker from left needle
E to right needle.
Cast on the stitches using a Provisonal cast-
F on. Use stitch markers to mark the
beginning and end of the Cable Panel at the Create a neat, seamless finish by using
center of the shrug. Box stitch is worked a circular needle for working the ribbed
either side of the Cable Panel. The box neckband edging in the round.
 274 PROJECTS

Row 4: *K2, p2; rep from * to 2sts before
marker, k2, sm, follow chart (row 4), sm,
*k2, p2; rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
These 4 rows establish the Box stitch
PROJECTS
CUFFS Row 1 (RS): *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2sts,
With RS facing, using US101⁄2 (UK3/6.5mm) k2.
needle, pick up and knit 72 (76,78) sts along Row 2: *p2, k2; rep from * to last 2sts, p2.
the edge of the Body section. Repeat these 2 rows once more.

pattern and set the position of the Cable Cast off in rib.
Panel. Repeat these 4 rows while continuing Large size only Join top and bottom stitches (in 2 groups,
to follow chart for the Cable Panel, repeating Next row: knit (78) sts. one at each edge).
the chart from row 3 to 26 a total of 3 (4,4) Slip 9 (9,11) sts from stitch holder back
times, and then the chart from row 3 to 25 Small and medium sizes only onto a US11 (UK0/8mm) needle. Pick
(5,9) once more. (97 (101,105) rows) Next row: k22 (23), k2tog twice, knit to end up 9 (9,11) sts from the provisional
Slip 9 (9,11) sts at each end onto a stitch of row 70 (74) sts. cast on at the bottom edge onto a US11
holder. Slip the center 96 (104,108) sts onto (UK0/8mm) needle.
a large stitch holder/spare circular needle. All sizes Holding both sets of stitches in the left
hand with RS together work as follows:
If the top edge of the knitting is on the Front
CABLE CHART
needle (FN) *slip 1 from FN to right needle
26 (RN), slip 1 from back needle (BN) to the RN
25 and pass the first slipped stitch over the
24 second, leaving the stitch on the RN.* Rep
23 from * to * for 9 (9, 11) sts.
22 With a US11 (UK0/8mm) needle knit and
21 cast off these 9 (9,11) sts.
20 If the bottom edge of the knitting is on the
19 FN * slip 1 from BN to RN, slip 1 from FN to
18 RN and pass the first slipped stitch over the
17
second leaving the stitch on the RN.* Rep
16 from * to * for 9 (9,11) sts.
15
With a US11 (UK0/8mm) needle knit and
14
cast off these 9 (9,11) sts.
13
12
NECK, FRONT AND BOTTOM EDGING
Starting at the center of the top edge,
11
working toward the cuff, slip 48 (52,54) sts
10
from holder onto a needle. Pick up 96 (104,
9
108) sts from provisional cast-on onto
8
another needle and slip remaining 48 (52,
7
54) sts onto another needle.
6
With RS facing and using US101⁄2 (UK3/
5
6.5mm) needle p15 stitches across top of
4
cable panel, p33 (37,39) across box stitch
3
pattern down to seam join, p96 (104,108)
2
across bottom of shrug to second seam join,
1
p33 (37,39) across box stitch, and 15sts
across Cable Panel to the center again.
Place a stitch marker to mark the
The cable pattern is KEY
worked over 24 stitches. beginning/end of round. 192 (208,216) sts
There are 8sts in each K on RS rows, p on WS rows P on RS rows, k on WS rows Round 1: K1, *p2, k2; rep to last 3sts, p2, k1.
cable group. The cable Repeat this round another 5 times.
groups have been CF rib over garter. Slip the next 4 stitches to cable Change to US10 (UK4/6mm) needles and
shaded light gray and needle and hold at front. Knit the next 4 stitches. repeat round 15 times. Cast off in rib.
dark gray to make it Work the 4 stitches on cable needle in k1, p1 rib.
easier to keep track of
which stitches belong FINISHING
CB rib over garter. Slip the next 4 stitches to cable
to which cable. Sew together the Cuff seams. Darn in any
needle and hold at back. Work the next 4 stitches
in k1, p1 rib. Knit 4 stitches from cable needle. ends. Handwash the garment and spin off/
squeeze out any excess water with a clean
CF garter over rib. Slip the next 4 stitches to cable
towel. Lay the shrug out on a flat surface,
needle and hold at front. Work the next 4 stitches smoothing it into shape, and let it dry.
in k1, p1 rib. Knit 4 stitches from the cable needle.

CB garter over rib. Slip the next 4 stitches to cable

needle and hold at back. Knit the next 4 stitches.
Work the 4 stitches on cable needle in k1, p1 rib.
TEXTURED WOMEN’S SHRUG 275
 COZY DOUBLE-SIDED SCARF 277

COZY DOUBLE-SIDED SCARF Level of difficulty

This duo-toned and ultra-warm scarf may be a labor of love to knit, but tuck it into your

PROJECTS
coat and you’ll never be cold. While this project enlists the use of circular needles, it’s also workable

on double-pointed needles, if you prefer.

TECHNIQUES USED Tubular knitting p.179, Tubular cast-off p.111

SIZE PATTERN
6 ⁄2in (17cm) x 60in (150cm) approx.
1
Using yarn A and a Tubular cast-on, cast on
70sts. Do not join.
YARN
Row 1: Using yarn A, * k1, s1 wyif, rep from
Cascade Anchor Bay—100g (50%
* to end. Without turning your work, push
cotton, 50% merino wool) sts up to tip of circular needle in your left
hand, to be reworked. This will be where
you worked the beginning of the last row.
Row 2: Using yarn B, * s1 wyib, p1, rep from
A B * to end of row. Turn work over, to now go in
the opposite direction. Twist yarns together
A: 903 Misty x 2
once to prevent holes from forming.
B: 997 Leaf x 2 Row 3: Using yarn B, work as given for
row 1.
NEEDLES Row 4: Using yarn A, work as given for Row
1 x 16in (40cm) long, US5 2. Turn work over, to now go in the opposite
direction. Twist yarns together once.
(UK9/3.75mm) circular needle
These last 4 rows form the pattern.
Cont repeating last 4 rows until work
measures 60in (150cm), ending with patt The double-sided effect is achieved by
GAUGE row 4. working backward and forward across two
separate pieces of knitted fabric in different
21sts and 27 rows to 4in (10cm) over Cast off, using a Tubular cast-off, in yarn B.
colors, on the same needle. Join the yarns
st st using US5 (UK9/3.75mm) Fasten off. on the edges at each color change by bringing
Darn in ends. Block lightly with a warm the new color underneath and around the
circular needle
iron under a damp cloth. dropped color before working the row.
 WOMEN’S CARDIGAN 279

WOMEN’S CARDIGAN Level of difficulty

With design features galore, this raglan-sleeve cardigan with a simple button closure

PROJECTS
has no side seams and a textural border at the hem and on the sleeves. This border pattern looks

complicated but is a simple 10-row repeat and highlights the simplicity of the rest of the garment.

TECHNIQUES USED Paired decreases p.140, Picking up stitches p.196, Buttonholes p.201, Mattress stitch p.214

SIZE PATTERN
To fit an adult woman: Small BACK AND FRONT (WORKED IN ONE
(Medium, Large) PIECE TO ARMHOLES)
Garment bust size S (M,L): 40in (102cm) With US7 (UK7/4.5mm) circular needle,
cast on 180 (200,220) sts.
(44 ⁄2in (113cm), 48 ⁄4in (124cm))
1 3
K 5 rows. Do not join the round, but work
Length to shoulder S (M,L): 241⁄2in (62cm) back and forth.
(243⁄4in (63cm), 251⁄4in (64cm)) Work border patt:
Sleeve length (from cuff to underarm) Row 1 (RS): [P5, k5] to end.
is 173⁄4in (45cm) Row 2: K1, [p5, k5] to last 9sts, p5, k4.
Row 3: P3, [k5, p5] to last 7sts, k5, p2.
Row 4: K3, [p5, k5] to last 7sts, p5, k2. The textural panel is made up of 10 rows,
YARN Row 5: P1, [k5, p5] to last 9sts, k5, p4. repeated two and a half times. Such features
Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran—50g Row 6: P4, [k5, p5] to last 6sts, k5, p1. can help complete a plain knitted garment.
(55% merino wool, 33% acrylic, Row 7: K2, [p5, k5] to last 8sts, p5, k3.
12% cashmere) Row 8: P2, [k5, p5] to last 8sts, k5, p3.
Row 9: K4, [p5, k5] to last 6sts, p5, k1.
Row 10: [k5, p5] to end.
These 10 rows form the patt. Work
another 15 rows in patt. K 3 rows.
202 Silver x 15 (17:19) Change to US8 (UK6/5mm) needles.
Beg with a k row work in st st until piece
NEEDLES measures 15in (38cm) from cast-on edge,
ending with a p row.
A: 1 pair of US7 (UK7/4.5mm) needles
Beg with a k row work in st st until piece
B: 1 pair of US8 (UK6/5mm) needles measures 15in (38cm) from cast-on edge,
C: 1 circular US7 (UK7/4.5mm) needle ending with a p row.
39–47in (100–120cm) long
D: 1 circular US8 (UK6/5mm) needle RIGHT FRONT
Change to straight needles.
39–47in (100–120cm) long
Next row: K41 (44,47) sts, turn and work on
A these sts for right front.
B Next row: P to end.
C Next row: K2, skp, k to last 4sts, k2tog, k2.
(39 (42,45) sts)
D
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K2, skp, k to end. (38 (41,44) sts)
NOTIONS
Next row: P to end. (38 (41,44) sts)
One button
Next row: K2, skp, to last 4sts, k2tog, k2.
Next row: P to end.
GAUGE Rep the last 2 rows 12 (14,16) more times.
18sts and 24 rows to 4in (10cm) over (12 (11,10) sts)
st st using US8 (UK6/5mm) needles
 280 PROJECTS
Next row: K to last 4sts, k2tog, k2.
Next row: P to end.
Rep the last 2 rows 8 (7,6) more times. (3sts)
Leave these sts on a holder.
PROJECTS
BACK
With RS facing, rejoin yarn to rem sts, cast
off 8 (12,16) sts, k next 81 (87,93) sts, turn
and work on these 82 (88,94) sts.
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K2, skp, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
(80 (86,92) sts)
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K to end.
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K2, skp, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Next row: P end.
Rep the last 2 rows 21 (22,23) more times.
(36 (40,44) sts)
Leave these sts on a holder.
LEFT FRONT
With RS facing, rejoin yarn to rem sts, cast
off 8 (12,16) sts, k to end. (41 (44,47) sts)
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K2, skp, to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
(39 (42,45) sts)
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
(38 (41,44) sts)
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K2, skp, to last 4sts, k2tog, k2.
Next row: P to end.
Rep the last 2 rows 12 (14,16) more times.
(12 (11,10) sts)
Next row: K2, skp, to end.
Fully fashioned, paired decreases give
a professional finish that attractively
defines the raglan shaping.
Next row: P to end.
Rep the last 2 rows 8 (7,6) more times. (3sts)
Leave these sts on a holder.
SLEEVES
With US7 (UK7/4.5mm) straight needles
cast on 40 (44,50) sts.
K 5 rows.
Small and Large sizes only
Row 1 (RS): [P5, k5] to end.
Row 2: K1, [p5, k5] to last 9 sts, p5, k4.
Row 3: P3, [k5, p5] to last 7 sts, k5, p2.
Row 4: K3, [p5, k5] to last 7 sts, p5, k2.
Row 5: P1, [k5, p5] to last 9 sts, k5, p4.
Row 6: P4, [k5, p5] to last 6 sts, k5, p1.
Row 7: K2, [p5, k5] to last 8 sts, p5, k3.
Row 8: P2, [k5, p5] to last 8 sts, k5, p3.
Row 9: K4, [p5, k5] to last 6 sts, p5, k1.
Row 10: [K5, p5] to end. When the button is such a visual feature
of this cardigan, it’s worth searching for and
buying exactly the right one.
Medium size only
Row 1: K2, [p5, k5] to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 2: K3, [p5, k5] to last st, p1.
Row 3: [P5, k5] to last 4 sts, p4. Next row: K3, skp, k to last 5sts, k2tog, k3.
Row 4: [K5, p5] to last 4 sts, k4. Next row: P to end.
Row 5: P3, [k5, p5] to last st, k1. Rep the last 2 rows 13 (12,11) more times.
Row 6: K1, [p5, k5] to last 3 sts, p3. (10 (11,12) sts)
Row 7: K4, [p5, k5] to end. Leave these sts on a spare needle.
Row 8: P4, [k5, p5] to end.
Row 9: P1, [k5, p5] to last 3 sts, k3. FRONT AND NECK BAND
Row 10: P2, [k5, p5] to last 2 sts, k2. With RS facing using US7 (UK7/4.5mm)
These 10 rows form the patt. circular needle, pick up and k 78sts to beg
Work another 15 rows in patt. of neck shaping, 36 (38,40) sts up right side
of neck, k1, skp from right neck holder,
Small and Large sizes only k2tog, k6 (7,8), skp, from right sleeve, k2tog,
K 3 rows. k32 (36,40), skp, from back, k2tog, k7 (8,9),
skp from left sleeve, k2tog, k1 from holder,
Medium size only pick up and k36 (38,40) sts down left side of
Next row: K to end, increasing 1st at center neck, 78sts to cast-on edge. (282 (292,302)
of row. (45sts) sts)
K 2 rows. K 1 row.
1st buttonhole row: K74, cast off 4sts, k to
All sizes end.
Change to US8 (UK6/5mm) needles. 2nd buttonhole row: K to end, casting on
Beg with a k row work 8 rows in st st. 4 sts over those cast off in previous row.
Inc row: K3, M1, k to last 3sts, m1, k3. K 1 row.
Work 7 rows in st st. Cast off.
Rep the last 8 rows 7 times more and the
inc row again. (58 (63,68) sts) FINISHING
Cont straight until sleeve measures 173⁄4in Block the pieces. Join the raglan shoulder
(45cm) from cast-on edge, ending with a seams with mattress stitch, aligning the
p row. pieces carefully. Join sleeve seams. Sew
on the button. Lightly reblock, paying
SHAPE RAGLAN TOP attention to the seams.
Cast off 5 (7,9) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
(48 (49,50) sts)
Row 1: K3, skp, k to last 5sts, k2tog, k3.
Row 2: P to end.
Row 3: K to end.
Row 4: P to end.
Rep the last 4 rows 4 (5,6) more times.
(38 (37,36) sts)
WOMEN'S CARDIGAN 281
 MEN’S TEXTURED HAT 283

MEN’S TEXTURED HAT Level of difficulty

Add a certain visual interest to an otherwise plain hat with this textural inverted

PROJECTS
chevron motif. You could apply such a border or panel to any other plain knitting to boost its

appeal. This hat is an easy project for practicing knitting in the round.

TECHNIQUES USED Working with a set of four double-pointed needles p.191, Paired edge decreases p.140, Simple increases p.128

SIZE PATTERN
To fit an average adult man Using US7 (UK7/4.5mm) needles cast on
90sts. Join into the round, being careful
YARN not to twist stitches and place marker
at beginning of round.
Cascade 220 Superwash Aran—100g
(100% merino wool) RIB
Round 1: [K1, p1] to end.
Rep this round until rib measures
11⁄4in (3cm).
200 Cafe Au Lait x 2
STAR TEXTURE
Change to US8 (UK6/5mm) needles.
NEEDLES Work 30 rounds from chart, repeating the
A: 4 x US7 (UK7/4.5mm) double-pointed 18 stitch design 5 times around hat. Chevron texture up close By knitting and
needles Next round: (K3, p3) to end. purling stitches as set out in the chart
B: 4 x US8 (UK6/5mm) double-pointed Rep this round twice more. Adjust hat (below), you can create this simple but
height here. very effective textural pattern.
needles
Decrease rounds.
A Round 1: [K3, p1, p2tog] to end. (75sts)
CABLE CHART
B Rounds 2 to 4: [K3, p2] to end.
Round 5: [K1, k2tog, p2] to end. (60sts) 30

GAUGE Rounds 6 to 8: [K2, p2] to end.

18sts and 24 rows to 4in (10cm) over
st st using US8 (UK6/5mm) needles
Round 9: [K2, p2tog] to end. (45sts)
Rounds 10 to 12: [K2, p1] to end. 25
Round 13: [K2tog, p1] to end. (30sts)
Rounds 14 to 16: [K1, p1] to end.
Round 17: k2tog to end. (15sts) 20
Round 18: k2tog to last st, k1. (8sts)
Draw yarn through remaining stitches
and secure. 15
Darn in loose ends. Block to shape, using
a method suitable for the yarn used.
10

KEY

K on RS rows, p on WS rows

P on RS rows, k on WS rows

MEN’S STRIPED SWEATER
Stripes are never out of fashion and are a good way to explore working with color.
This combination has stripes that highlight the raglan sleeve design of the sweater and tie it
to the bands at the hem. Simply pull over the head and enjoy a warm, woolly classic.
TECHNIQUES USED Knit-on cast-on p.92, Stockinette stitch p.116, Paired decreases p.141, Simple increases p.128, Mattress stitch p.214
SIZE
To fit an adult man: Medium (Extra
large, Extra extra extra large)
Garment chest size M (XL,XXXL): 42in
(107cm) (471⁄2in (120cm),53in (133.5cm))
Length to shoulder M (XL,XXXL): 30in
(76cm) (303⁄4in (78cm),311⁄2in (80cm))
Sleeve length (from cuff to underarm)
M (XL,XXXL): 211⁄4in (54cm) (213⁄4in
(55cm),22in (56cm))
YARN
Cascade 220 Superwash Aran—100g
(100% merino wool)
A B
A: Westpoint Blue Heather 9325 x 6 (7,7)
B: Midnight Blue 9543 x 1
NEEDLES
A: 1 pair of US7 (UK7/4.5mm) needles
B: 1 pair of US8 (UK6/5mm) needles
A
B
GAUGE
18sts and 24 rows to 4in (10cm) over
st st using US8 (UK6/5mm) needles
MEN’S STRIPED SWEATER 285
Level of difficulty
PROJECTS
PATTERN
BACK
Using US7 (UK7/4.5mm) needles and yarn A
cast on 98 (110,122) sts.
1st rib row (RS): K2, [p2, k2] to end.
2nd rib row: P2, [k2, p2] to end.
Rep these 2 rows 4 more times.
Change to US8 (UK6/5mm) needles.
Beg with a k row cont in st st and stripes of
[8 rows A, 4 rows B] 3 times, then cont in A
only until back measures 173⁄4(18,181⁄2)in
(45(46,47)cm) from cast-on edge, ending
with a WS row.
Shape raglan armholes as follows:
Cast off 6 (7,8) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
(86 (96,106) sts)
A simple but effective stripe adds a useful
1st and 2nd sizes only and flexible detail. Exaggerate the effect with
a vibrant stripe color or soften it with a more
Next row (RS): K2, skp, k to last 4sts, k2tog,
coordinated hue.
k2.
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K to end.
Next row: P to end.
Rep the last 4 rows 3 (1,–) more times.
(78 (92,106) sts)
All sizes
Next row (RS): K2, skp, k to last 4sts, k2tog.
Next row: P to end **.
Rep the last 2 rows 23 (28,33) more times.
Leave rem 30 (34,38) sts on a holder.
 286 PROJECTS
FRONT
Work as given for back to **.
Rep the last 2 rows 14 (19,24) more times.
(48 (52,56) sts)
PROJECTS
Shape front neck
Next row (RS): K2, skp, k13, skp, turn and
work on these sts for first side of front neck.
(17sts)
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K2, skp, k to last 2sts, skp.
Rep the last 2 rows 5 more times. (5sts)
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K2, skp, k1. (4sts)
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K2, skp. (3sts)
Next row: P3, leave these sts on a holder.
With RS facing place center 10 (14,18) sts
on a holder, rejoin yarn to rem sts, k2tog, k
to last 4sts, k2tog, k2. (17sts)
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Rep the last 2 rows 5 more times. (5sts)
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K1, k2tog, k2. (4sts)
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K1, k2tog. (3sts)
Next row: P3, leave these sts on a holder.
SLEEVES
With US7 (UK7/4.5mm) needles and yarn A
cast on 46 (50,54) sts.
Working paired decreases in the fully
fashioned way, several stitches in from the
edge, creates a professional finish.
1st rib row (RS): K2, [p2, k2] to end.
2nd rib row: P2, [k2, p2] to end.
Rep these 2 rows 4 more times.
Change to US8 (UK6/5mm) needles.
Beg with a k row work in st st.
Work 4 rows.
Inc row (RS): K4, m1, k to last 4 sts, m1, k4.
Work 9 rows.
Rep the last 10 rows 9 times more and the
inc row again. (68 (72,76) sts)
Cont straight until sleeve measures
211⁄4(213⁄4,22)in (54(55,56)cm) from cast-on
edge, ending with a WS row.
SHAPE RAGLAN TOP
Cast off 6 (7,8) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
56 (58,60) sts.
Now work in stripes of [8 rows yarn A,
4 rows yarn B] 3 times, then cont in yarn
A only
Next row (RS): K2, skp, k to last 4sts, k2tog,
k2.
Next row: P to end.
Next row: K to end.
Next row: P to end.
Rep the last 4 rows 10 more times.
(34 (36,38) sts)
Next row: K2, skp, k to last 4sts, k2tog.
Next row: P to end.
Rep the last 2 rows 9 (10,11) times.
Leave rem 14 sts on a holder.
The neckband is knitted last after picking
up the stitches on the various stitch holders.
Its ribbing is stretchy so it’s comfortable to
get over heads but springs back, making a
close fit at the neck.
NECKBAND
Block the pieces, then join raglan seams
using mattress stitch.
With RS facing, using US7 (UK7/4.5mm)
needles and yarn A work across left sleeve,
front, right sleeve, and back as follows:
Row 1: K12, skp across sts of left sleeve,
k2tog, k1, from left front holder, pick up
and k13sts down left side of front neck, k10
(14,18) sts from front center neck holder,
pick up and k13sts up right side of front
neck, skp, k1, from right front holder, k2tog,
k10, skp across sts of right sleeve, k2tog,
k28 (32,36) sts from back neck holder. (94
(102,110) sts)
1st rib row (WS): P2, [k2, p2] to end.
2nd rib row: K2, [p2, k2] to end.
These 2 rows form the rib.
Work another 5 rows in rib.
Cast off in rib.
FINISHING
Join side and sleeve seams. Darn in all ends.
Lightly reblock, paying close attention to
the seams.
MEN’S STRIPED SWEATER 287
 CUTE HOODED BABY JACKET 289

CUTE HOODED BABY JACKET Level of difficulty

Who can resist a hood with ears? This baby cardigan features a basketweave knit

PROJECTS
fabric, buttons, and a hood with ears—so there are lots of new techniques to master in one project.

The design has no shoulder seams, which saves time when finishing.

TECHNIQUES USED Garter stitch p.114, Simple increases p.128, Picking up stitches p.196, Buttonholes p.201, Mattress stitch p.214

SIZE PATTERN
To fit a baby age 9–12 months BACK AND FRONT (WORKED IN ONE PIECE
(12–18 months) STARTING AT LOWER BACK EDGE)
Finished size (cuff to cuff): 231⁄2(251⁄2)in With US5 (UK9/3.75mm) needles, cast on
67 (74) sts.
(60(65)cm)
K 10 rows.
Length: 11(121⁄4)in (28(31)cm) Inc row (RS): K2(1), *m1, k7(8), rep from * to
Sleeve seam: 5(61⁄4)in (13(16)cm) last 2(1) sts, m1, k2(1). (77 (85) sts)
Row 1: K5, *p3, k5, rep from * to end.
YARN Row 2: P5, *k3, p5, rep from * to end.
Row 3: Rep row 1.
Debbie Bliss Rialto DK—50g
Row 4: K to end.
(100% merino wool)
Row 5: K1, p3, *k5, p3, rep from * to last st,
k1.
Row 6: P1, k3, *p5, k3, rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 7: Rep row 5.
033 Mint Green x 5 (6) Row 8: K to end.
These 8 rows form the patt, rep until work Basketweave stitch creates a thickly
measures approx. 73⁄4(9)in (20(23)cm), ending woven-looking knitted fabric that is
NEEDLES with Row 7. warmer and more textural than the
A: 1 pair of US3 (UK10/3.25mm) needles stockinette stitch. The stitch pattern
B: 1 pair of US5 (UK9/3.75mm) needles Shape sleeves is created by an eight-row repeat.
Next row: Cast on 28 (36) sts, k to end.
A
Next row: Cast on 28 (36) sts, then work in
B
patt as for Row 1. (133 (165) sts)
Cont straight for a further 30 (34) rows, thus
NOTIONS ending with Row 7 (3). Back is now complete.
Four buttons Place a marker at both ends of last row to
denote shoulders.
GAUGE
RIGHT FRONT
26sts and 40 rows to 4in (10cm) over
Next row (RS): K53(69) sts, turn and cont in
patt with US5 (UK9/3.75mm) needles patt on these sts only. Leave rem sts on a
spare needle.
Work 12 rows straight, ending with a RS row.

Shape front neck

Inc 1 st at beg of next and at same edge of
foll 3 alt rows. Now inc 1 st at this edge on
next 4 rows. (61 (77) sts)
Cast on 5sts at beg of next row (WS row).
(66 (82) sts)
Cont straight in pattern until 32 (36) rows
have been worked since placing shoulder
marker, thus ending with Row 7(3).
 290 PROJECTS
Shape sleeve
Cast off 28 (36) sts at beg of next row, k to
end. (37 (45) sts)
Cont straight in patt until front matches
PROJECTS
back to start of garter stitch border, ending
with Row 7. Note that pattern blocks will be
different on front and back side seams so
that pattern will match.
Dec row (RS): (K6, k2tog) 4 (5) times, k to
end. (33 (40) sts)
K 9 rows. Cast off.
LEFT FRONT
Return to sts left on spare needle and with
RS facing, slip first 27sts onto a holder for
back neck, k to end of row. (53 (69) sts)
Now cont in patt to match Right Front,
reversing shaping.
HOOD
With US5 (UK9/3.75mm) needles and RS
of work facing, pick up and k 29sts up right
front neck, k 27sts left on holder for back
neck and pick up and k 29sts down left
front neck. (85sts)
Beg with Row 1, work in patt as for Back
for 5 rows.
Shape hood
Next row (RS): Patt 42sts, m1, k1 and then
mark this stitch with a colored thread, m1,
patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt, incorporating extra sts
correctly into patt and always working
center marked st as p on WS rows and K
on RS rows.
Next row: Patt 43sts, m1, k1, m1, patt
to end.
The simple garter stitch cuffs and borders
of the cardigan ensure that the edges lie flat.
Cont to inc as now set on every RS row
until there are 95sts. Then inc on every foll
4th row twice and then on foll alt row once.
101sts. You will now have 3 knit stitches
again in the center back of the hood.
Cont straight until hood measures 61⁄4in
(16cm) from neck edge ending with a
WS row.
Next row: Cast off 32sts, patt 37sts, cast
off rem 32sts.
Rejoin yarn to rem 37sts with WS facing
and patt a further 39 rows.
Leave 37sts on a spare needle. Join hood
seams.
FRONT AND HOOD BORDERS
With US3 (UK10/3.25mm) needles and RS
of work facing, pick up and k 56(64) sts up
right front edge, 38 sts up right front hood
edge, k 37sts from spare needle at center
front of hood, pick up and k 38sts down left
side of hood, pick up and k 56(64) sts down
left front. (225(241) sts)
K 3 rows.
Next row (RS): K56(64) sts, cast off next
113sts, k to end.
Cont on rem 56(64) sts for buttonhole band.
K 1 row.
Buttonhole row: K2(3), yo, k2tog, (k15(17),
yo, k2tog) twice, k14(16), yo, k2tog, k2(3).
K another 5 rows.
Cast off.
BUTTON BAND
With WS of work facing, rejoin yarn to rem
56 (64) sts on right front edge and k 7 rows.
Cast off.
Choose complementary or contrasting
buttons depending on whether it’s something
you want to tie in or highlight from the main
color of the cardigan.
CUFFS
With US3 (UK10/3.25mm) needles and RS
of work facing, pick up and k 40 (44) sts
along each cuff edge.
K 9 rows. Cast off.
EARS (MAKE 2)
With US3 (UK10/3.25mm) needles, cast
on 30 sts.
K 12 rows.
Next row: (K1, k2tog) 10 times. (20 sts)
K 1 row.
Next row: (K2tog) 10 times.
K 1 row. Cast off. Join center back seam.
FINISHING
Join side seams and sleeve seam using
mattress stitch, matching pattern blocks.
Sew on buttons. Sew ears to sides of hood,
21⁄4in (6cm) from the front edge and
centrally over the seams. Darn in the
loose ends. Block.
Garter stitch ears are quick to knit and
attach to the hood. A straightforward
decrease (knit two stitches together)
creates the right shape for the ears.
CUTE HOODED BABY JACKET 291
 BABY BLANKET 293

BABY BLANKET Level of difficulty

A super-soft, fabric-backed blanket for a new baby is always a welcome gift. A garter-

PROJECTS
stitch edging frames this ridge-stitch blanket and also serves as a way of securing the fabric neatly

on one side. Enjoy choosing the yarn color and fabric combinations for this cute baby knit.

TECHNIQUES USED Crochet provisional cast-on p.102, Garter stitch p.114, Blocking p.213

SIZE PATTERN
27 ⁄2 x 35 ⁄2in (70 x 90cm) approx.
1 1
Using US6 (UK8/4mm) circular needle cast
on 147sts using crochet provisional cast-on.
YARN
EDGING
Cascade Anchor Bay—100g (50% cotton,
Work 8 rows (4 ridges) of garter stitch with
50% merino wool) chain edging.
Row 1: Sl1pwise wyif, k to last st, k1tbl.

24 Daffodil x 5
NEEDLES
US6 (UK8/4mm) circular needle 32in
(81cm) long
NOTIONS
Backing fabric 263⁄4 x 341⁄2in (68 x 88cm)
Sharp needle and sewing thread
GAUGE
21sts and 28 rows to 4in (10cm) over
st st using US6 (UK8/4mm) needles
21sts and 38 rows to 4in (10cm) over
ridge stitch using US6 (UK8/4mm)
needles
MAIN BLANKET
Ridge stitch with garter border and chain
edging.
Row 1 (RS): Sl1pwise wyif, k4, p1, k to last
6sts, p1, k4, k1tbl.
Row 2: Sl1pwise wyif, k5, p to last 6sts, k5,
k1tbl.
Row 3: Sl1pwise wyif, k4, p1, (k1, yo, sl1) to
last 7sts, k1, p1, k4, k1tbl.
Row 4: Sl1pwise wyif, k5, (p1, k2tog) to last
7sts, p1, k5, k1tbl.
These 4 rows set ridge patt. Cont repeating
rows 1–4 until work measures 34½in
(87.5cm), ending with patt row 1. The backing fabric’s edge neatly fits with the
Work 8 rows (4 ridges) of garter stitch with garter stitch border, so there are no holes for
little fingers to get caught in.
chain edging as before.
Cast off.
Darn in loose ends. Pin out and block to
size using a hot iron over a damp cloth.
FABRIC BACKING
Turn under 3⁄4in (1.5cm) around all edges of
backing fabric and press along edges. With
WS together, pin then tack backing fabric
to knitted blanket, leaving garter border
uncovered. Slip stitch in place.
 CHILD’S OWL TOY 295

CHILD’S OWL TOY Level of difficulty

Make a little knitted creature for a child’s new playmate or for you to cuddle up to.

PROJECTS
Customize your feathered friend with sewn-on embroidery details and its own little scarf. Knitted

in the round, this toy is a challenging project but is so rewarding to finish.

TECHNIQUES USED Stockinette stitch p.114, Working with four double-pointed needles p.191, Fair Isle method p.159, Embroidery on knitting p.229

SIZE PATTERN
10in (25cm) (approx.) BODY (WORKED IN THE ROUND FROM THE
BOTTOM UP)
YARN Using dpns and yarn A, cast on 6sts. Divide
the sts between the 3 dpns (2sts on each),
Plymouth Yarn Baby Alpaca DK—50g
join to beg working in the round, being
(100% baby alpaca) careful not to twist the sts. Mark the beg/
end of the round with a stitch marker.
Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: Kfb in every st. (12sts)
A B C D Round 3 and every foll alt round: Knit.
Round 4: Kfb in every st. (24sts)
A: 7556 x 1
Round 6: (Kfb, k1) to end. (36sts)
B: 7760 x 2 Round 8: (Kfb, k1) to end. (54sts)
C: 6126 x 1 Round 10: (Kfb, k2) to end. (72sts)
D: 2060 x 1 Knit 8 rounds.

FAIR ISLE PATTERN

NEEDLES
Commence Fair Isle pattern as follows:
A: 1 pair of US3 (UK10/3.25mm) needles
Round 19: K32A, join yarn B, (k1B, k3A)
B: A set of 4 x US3 (UK10/3.25mm) twice, k1B, cut yarn B, k to end in yarn A.
double-pointed needles (dpns) Knit 3 rounds.
A Round 23: K30A, join yarn B, (k1B, k3A) 3
times, k1B, cut yarn B, k to end in yarn A.
B Knit 3 rounds.
Round 27: K28A, join yarn B, (k1B, k3A) 4
NOTIONS times, k1B, cut yarn B, k to end in yarn A.
Stitch marker Knit 3 rounds.
Washable toy stuffing Round 31: K30A, join yarn B, (k1B, K3A) 3
Black and white stranded times, k1B, cut yarn B, k to end in yarn A.
Knit 3 rounds.
embroidery thread
Round 35: K28A, join yarn B, (k1B, k3A) 4
times, k1B, cut yarn B, k to end in yarn A.
GAUGE Knit 3 rounds.
24sts and 32 rows to 4in (10cm) Round 39: K30A, join yarn B, (k1B, k3A) 3
over st st using US3 times, k1B, cut yarn B, k to end in yarn A.
Knit 3 rounds.
(UK10/3.25mm) needles
Round 43: K28A, join yarn B, (k1B, k3A) 4
times, k1B, cut yarn B, k to end in yarn A.
Knit 2 rounds.
Round 46: (K1A, k1B) to end.
Using yarn B only from now on, knit 8
rounds.
The single-stitch featherlike pattern
on the owl’s chest is a Fair Isle design
using two colors of yarn.
SHAPE TOP
Round 55: (K2tog, k2) to end. (54sts)
Round 56: Knit.
Round 57: (K2tog, k1) to end. (36sts)
Round 58: Knit.
Round 59: (K2tog, k1) to end. (24sts)
Round 60: Knit.
Sl sts onto a thread or a circular needle.
Thread the tail end from casting on
through the first round of sts, draw up and
sew end in on WS. Sew in ends from Fair
Isle section. Stuff body well. Sl sts back
onto dpns and cont as follows:
Round 61: (K2tog) to end. (12sts)
Round 62: Knit.
Round 63: (K2tog) to end. (6sts)
Cut yarn, thread through rem sts, pull
up tightly, and fasten off.
 296 PROJECTS
HEAD (WORKED IN THE ROUND FROM
THE BACK TO THE FRONT)
Using dpns and yarn B, cast on 6sts. Divide
the sts between the 3 dpns (2sts on each),
PROJECTS
join to beg working in the round, being
careful not to twist the sts. Mark the beg/
end of the round with a st marker.
Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: Kfb in every st. (12sts)
Round 3: Purl.
Round 4: Kfb in every st. (24sts)
Round 5: Purl.
Round 6: (Kfb, k1) to end. (36sts)
Round 7: Purl.
Round 8: (Kfb, k1) to end. (54sts)
Round 9: Purl.
Round 10: (Kfb, k2) to end. (72sts)
Round 11: Purl
Round 12: Knit.
Rep the last 2 rounds 12 more times.
Round 37: Purl.
Change to yarn A.
Knit 3 rounds.
Shape face
Round 41: (K2tog, k2) to end. (54sts)
Round 42: Knit.
Round 43: (K2tog, k1) to end. (36sts)
Round 44: Knit.
Round 45: (K2tog, k1) to end. (24sts)
Round 46: Knit.
Sl sts onto a thread or a circular needle.
Thread the tail end from casting on
through the first round of sts, draw up and
sew end in on WS. Stuff head well. Sl sts
back onto dpns and cont as follows:
Round 47: (K2tog) to end. (12sts)
Round 48: Knit.
Round 49: (K2tog) to end. (6sts)
Cut yarn, thread through rem sts, pull
up tightly, and fasten off.
WING (MAKE 2)
Using US3 (UK10/3.25mm) needles and
yarn B, cast on 14sts.
Beg with a k row, work 2 rows in st st.
Row 3: Kfb, k to last 2sts, kfb, k1.
Purl 1 row.
Rep the last 2 rows 3 more times. (22sts)
Beg with a k row, work 16 rows in st st.
Row 27: K1, skp, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Purl 1 row.
Rep the last 2 rows until 4sts rem.
Row 45: Kfb, k to last 2sts, kfb, k1.
Purl 1 row.
Rep the last 2 rows 8 more times. (22sts)
Beg with a k row, work 18 rows in st st.
Row 81: k1, skp, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Purl 1 row.
Rep the last 2 rows until 14sts rem.
Cast off.
FOOT (MAKE 2)
Using US3 (UK10/3.25mm) needles and
yarn C, cast on 8sts.
Beg with a k row, work 2 rows in st st.
Row 3: Kfb, k to last 2sts, kfb, k1. (10sts)
Beg with a p row, work 3 rows in st st.
Row 7: Kfb, k to last 2sts, kfb, k1. (12sts)
Purl 1 row.
Row 9: Kfb, k to last 2sts, kfb, k1. (14sts)
Beg with a p row, work 9 rows in st st.
Row 19: K1, skp, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
(12sts)
Purl 1 row.
Row 21: K1, skp, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1. Bring your owl to life by embroidering facial
(10sts) features, such as eyes and a beak. The beak
Beg with a p row, work 3 rows in st st. also cleverly disguises the circle created at
Row 25: K1, skp, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1. the end of the knitting.
(8sts)
Purl 1 row.
Cast off.
SCARF FACIAL FEATURES
Using US3 (UK10/3.25mm) needles and Using yarn C, embroider a beak in the
yarn D, cast on 9sts. center of the owl’s face as shown. Using
Beg with a k row, work 6 rows in st st. 2 strands of black stranded embroidery
Change to yarn C and, beg with a k row, thread, embroider a circle for each eye
work 2 rows in st st. using chain stitch. Fill in the circle using
Change to yarn D and, beg with a k row, straight satin stitches from the center
work 6 rows in st st. of the circle outward. Lastly, stitch a small
These last 8 rows form the stripe sequence. white highlight in each eye as shown. Sew
Rep the last 8 rows 15 more times, carrying the head to the body securely.
the unused yarn up the side of the work.
Cast off. SCARF FRINGE
Darn in all ends.
FINISHING Cut 10 pieces of yarn D measuring
Fold wings at narrowest point with WS approximately 31⁄4in (8cm) long. Take 2
together and sew edges together down pieces and fold them in half. Thread the
each side using mattress stitch. Leave top halfway point loop through the end of
edges open. the scarf, then pass the yarn ends through
Sew wings to each side of body with the the loop (a crochet hook is useful for
cast-on edge of each wing uppermost and this process). Repeat 4 more times. Cut
the cast-off edge underneath. First sew the the fringe to an even length. Repeat on the
cast-on edge to the top of the owl’s body, other end of the scarf. Tie the scarf around
then sew the cast-off edge underneath. the owl’s neck as shown.
Fold each foot in half with WS together and
sew edges together down each side using
mattress stitch. Leave top edges open. Stuff
well. Using yarn C, sew over and through
the foot end twice to form three ‘toes’ as
shown. Whip stitch the cast-on and cast-off
edges together, then sew feet to underside
of bottom of body in positions as shown.
EAR TUFTS (MAKE 2)
Cut 8 pieces of yarn B. Fold the pieces in
half, thread the halfway point loop through
the fabric of the owl’s head in the position
where the ear tuft is required, then pass
the yarn ends through the loop (a crochet
hook is useful for this process), and pull
tightly. Trim the tuft to an even length.
Repeat for the other ear tuft.
CHILD’S OWL TOY 297
 CHILD’S FAIR ISLE BOBBLE HAT 299

CHILD’S FAIR ISLE BOBBLE HAT Level of difficulty

Make a colorful statement with this vibrant bobble hat. Use the Fair Isle technique of

PROJECTS
loosely stranding the yarns when not in use to create a striking, patterned child’s hat. You can

make the pom-pom from a cardboard cutout or use a folding pom-pom maker (see p.47).

TECHNIQUES USED Cable cast-on p.93, Stockinette stitch p.114, Charted colorwork p.158, Fair Isle method p.159

SIZE PATTERN CHART

To fit a child’s head (17in/43cm Using yarn A, US3 (UK10/3.25mm) needles,
19
in circumference) approx. and the single rib version of cable cast-on
18
cast on 111sts.
1st row (RS): K1, [p1, k1] to end. 17
YARN
2nd row: P1, [k1, p1] to end. 16
Plymouth Yarn Select DK Merino Rep last 2 rows 11 more times. 15
Superwash—50g (100% merino) Change to US6 (UK8/4mm) needles.
14
Beginning on a k row, work in st st for
4 rows. 13
Cont in st st and work in patt, stranding 12
yarn not in use loosely across WS of work,
A B C 11
reading the chart from right to left on RS
A: 052 Irish Navy x 2 (k) rows and from left to right on WS (p) 10

B: 855 Mustard x 1 rows, thus: 9

C: 049 Clerical x 1 1st row (RS): K 1st from A to B, rep 6sts 8
from B to C to last 2sts, k 2sts from C to D. 7
2nd row: P 2sts from D to C, rep 6sts from
NEEDLES 6
C to B to last st, p 1st from B to A.
A: 1 pair of US3 (UK10/3.25mm) needles Cont until all 19 patt rows have been 5
B: 1 pair of US6 (UK8/4mm) needles worked. 4
A Cont with B only, beg p row st st 7 rows. 3

B 2
SHAPE CROWN
1st row: K3, [k2tog, k4] to end. (93sts) 1
GAUGE P 1 row.
22sts and 28 rows to 4in (10cm) D C Rep = 6sts B A
3rd row: K3, [k2tog, k3] to end. (75sts)
square over st st using US6 P 1 row. KEY
(UK8/4mm) needles 5th row: K3, [k2tog, k2] to end. (57sts) A B C
P 1 row.
7th row: K3, [k2tog, k1] to end. (39sts)
NOTIONS
P 1 row.
Pom-pom maker 9th row: K3, [k2tog] to end. (21sts)
P 1 row.
Break yarn, thread through remaining sts,
and fasten off securely.

FINISHING
Join the back seam and darn in loose
ends. Make a pom-pom about 33⁄8in (8cm)
diameter and attach securely to the top
of the hat.
Fair Isle pattern up close shows the creative
use of colorwork and how such a pattern can
be created with just three colors.
 GEOMETRIC COASTERS 301

GEOMETRIC COASTERS Level of difficulty

Brighten up any tabletop with these cotton coasters. They are worked in a similar way to

PROJECTS
a medallion: knitted on double-pointed needles from the center outward. The first four rounds are

very tricky to handle, so take it slowly; after that it knits very easily. Each ball makes six coasters.

TECHNIQUES USED Pinhole cast-on p.105, Working with four double-pointed needles p.191, Knit into front and back of stitch p.128, Blocking p.213

SIZE PATTERN
4in (10cm) square approx. Cast on 8sts using pinhole cast-on method
and a crochet hook.
YARN Put 2sts on each of 4 needles and work
with a 5th needle. Mark the beginning
Rowan Summerlite 4ply—50g (100% cotton)
of the round.
Round 1: Ktbl to end.
Round 2: Kfb to end. (16sts)
Round 3 and all odd rounds: K to end.
A B C D Round 4: [Kfb, k2, kfb] 4 times. (24sts)
Round 6: [Kfb, k4, kfb] 4 times. (32sts)
A: 428 High Tide x 1
Round 8: [Kfb, k6, kfb] 4 times. (40sts)
B: 439 Touch of Gold x 1
Round 10: [Kfb, k8, kfb] 4 times. (48sts)
C: 445 Green Bay x 1 Round 12: [Kfb, k10, kfb] 4 times. (56sts)
D: 441 Rooibos x 1 Round 14: [Kfb, k12, kfb] 4 times. (64sts)
Round 16: [Kfb, k14, kfb] 4 times. (72sts) During the first few rounds, keep laying
NEEDLES Round 18: [Kfb, k16, kfb] 4 times. (80sts) the piece of work on a flat surface with the
Round 20: [Kfb, k18, kfb] 4 times. (88sts) needles in a square and checking that the
5 x US2 or 3 (UK11/3mm) double-pointed stitches are being worked in the correct
Round 22: [Kfb, k20, kfb] 4 times. (96sts)
needles order and are not being twisted.
Round 24: [Kfb, k22, kfb] 4 times. (104sts)
Round 26: [Kfb, k24, kfb] 4 times. (112sts)
Round 27: K to end.
GAUGE
Cast off loosely, especially around corners,
28sts and 44 rows to 4in (10cm) over
leaving the last stitch on the needle. Cut
st st on US2/3 (UK11/3mm) needles
yarn and thread onto a sewing needle.
Bring yarn up through center of last stitch,
under the two strands at the base of the
first cast-off stitch and back down through
the center of the last stitch. This continues
the chain stitch around the outer edge,
making the beginning of the round invisible.
Pin out and block, using a hot iron over
a damp cloth, until work no longer curls.
 ELEGANT TABLE RUNNER 303

ELEGANT TABLE RUNNER Level of difficulty

Elevate the everyday dining table with this 100 percent cotton runner; cotton yarns are

PROJECTS
great for housewares because they wash well. The simple, understated lace pattern in the center of

the runner is lovely to work: the leaves “grow” from the needles and form as each row is worked.

TECHNIQUES USED Crochet provisional cast-on p.102, Stockinette stitch p.114, Open eyelet, p.153, Blocking, p.213

SIZE PATTERN
12 ⁄2 x 51in (32 x 130cm) approx.
1
Cast on 93sts using a crochet provisional
cast-on method.
YARN Row 1 (RS): Sl1, k34, yo, k3, k2tog, p1, s1k,
k1, psso, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2tog, p1, s1k, k1,
Rowan Summerlite 4ply—50g (100% cotton)
psso, k3, yo, k to end.
Row 2: Sl1, p39, k1, p11, k1, p to end.
Row 3: Sl1, k34, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, p1, s1k,
k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, s1k, k1, psso, k1,
424 Periwinkle x 4 k2tog, p1, s1k, k1, psso, k2, yo, k1, yo, k to
end. (91sts)
Row 4: Sl1, p40, k1, [p3, k1] twice, k1, p to
NEEDLES end.
1 pair of US2 or 3 (UK11/3mm) needles Row 5: Sl1, k34, yo, k3, yo, k1, k2tog, p1, s1k,
k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, s1k, k1, psso,
k1, yo, k3, yo, k to end.
NOTIONS Row 6: Sl1, p41, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p to end.
Row 7: Sl1, k34, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, p1, s1k, k1,
Crochet hook
psso, p1, k2tog, p1, s1k, k1, psso, yo, k5, yo, k
to end.
GAUGE Row 8: Sl1, p42, k1, [p1, k1] twice, p to end.
28sts and 40 rows to 4in (10cm) over st st Row 9: Sl1, k34, yo, k7, yo, s1k, k2tog, psso,
using US2 or 3 (UK11/3mm) needles p1, k3tog, yo, k7, yo, k to end.
This repeating pattern runs in a column,
Row 10: Sl1, p44, k1, p to end. using eyelets to separate it from the
Row 11: Sl1, k34, yo, k9, yo, s1k, k2tog, psso, stockinette stitch. Cables, too, are often
yo, k9, yo, k to end. (93sts) separated from the main knitting with
Row 12: Sl1, p to end. columns of purl to create a border.
These 12 rows set lace patt. Cont repeating
rows 1–12 until work measures 51in
(130cm), ending with patt row 12.
Cast off.
Pin and block using a hot iron over a damp
cloth until work no longer curls.
 CHECKERED PILLOW 305

CHECKERED PILLOW Level of difficulty

Liven up any chair or sofa with this colorful and cuddly pillow. It is an ideal first project

PROJECTS
because it requires no shaping. All you need to know is the garter stitch and how to join in a new

color. It is a good idea to insert a zipper into a seam to make the cover easier to remove for washing.

TECHNIQUES USED Knit-on cast-on p.92, Garter stitch p.114, Intarsia p.164; Casting off knitwise p.106, Overcast seam p.215, Sewing in a zipper p.219

SIZE PATTERN
20 x 20in (50 x 50cm) approx. Slip the first stitch on every row. This gives
a neat, firm edge and makes it easier to sew
YARN if choosing to use mattress stitch to seam
rather than an overcast seam.
Quince & Co. Puffin Super Bulky—100g
The cushion cover is constructed of four
(100% wool) strips, worked bottom to top and from left
to right, as follows:

STRIP 1 (MAKE 2)
A B C D Using yarn D, and US15 (UK000/10mm)
needles, cast on 25sts. Knit 46 rows.
A: Egret x 1
Change to yarn B, and knit 46 rows.
B: Pomegranate x 1 Cast off.
C: Honey x 1
STRIP 2 (MAKE 2) When joining in new colors in garter stitch,
D: Sabine x 1
or working in stripes, colors will be cleanly
Using yarn C, and US15 (UK000/10mm)
divided in a straight line on the right side (RS)
needles, cast on 25sts. Knit 46 rows. of your work if introduced on an odd (RS)
NEEDLES
Change to yarn A, and knit 46 rows. row. You can easily identify the RS and WS
1 pair of US15 (UK000/10mm) needles Cast off. because the join looks different in the back.

NOTIONS
20 x 20in (50 x 50cm) pillow form or
polyester stuffing
20in (50cm) zipper (optional)
GAUGE
10sts and 19 rows to 4in (10cm) over g st
using US15 (UK000/10mm) needles
FINISHING
When sewing, use short pieces of
yarn and a blunt-ended, large-eyed
needle. The yarn will split quite easily
so be careful when pulling the yarn
through the fabric.
Lay the strips alongside each other
and match cast-on and cast-off edges.
Sew together, with WS facing, using whip
stitch. (It is best to use a whip stitch on
garter stitch strips because this blends with
the ridged texture of the knitted fabric.)
Insert a zipper, if using.
Darn in all ends and block.
 CHECKERED BLANKET 307

CHECKERED BLANKET Level of difficulty

This luxuriously thick and warm blanket knits up fast. The garter stitch is easy to

PROJECTS
do and the knitted fabric is identical on both sides, which prevents it from curling, so almost no

blocking is required. Why not knit the coordinated pillow, too (see p.304–305)?

TECHNIQUES USED Knit-on cast-on p.92, Garter stitch p.114, Intarsia p.164; Casting off knitwise p.106, Whip stitch p.215

SIZE PATTERN USE OF COLOR

40 x 49in (100 x 125cm) approx. The blanket is constructed of four strips,
worked bottom to top and from left to right,
as follows (see also, right): A D C A
YARN
Quince & Co. Puffin Super Bulky—100g
STRIP 1
(100% wool) Using yarn A and US15 (UK000/10mm)
needles, cast on 25sts and knit 46 rows. B A E D
Change to yarn B and work 46 rows.
Change to yarn A and work 46 rows.
A B C D E Change to yarn D and work 46 rows.
Change to yarn B and work 46 rows. A D A B
A: Egret x 3
Strip should measure 49in (125cm).
B: Pomegranate x 2 Cast off.
C: Honey x 1
D C D A
D: Sabine x 3 STRIP 2
E: Kumlien’s Gull x 1 Using yarn D and US15 (UK000/10mm)
needles, cast on 25sts and k 46 rows.
Change to yarn A and work 46 rows.
NEEDLES B A E D
Change to yarn D and work 46 rows.
1 pair of US15 (UK000/10mm) needles Change to yarn C and work 46 rows.
Change to yarn A and work 46 rows. Strip 1 Strip 2 Strip 3 Strip 4
Strip should measure 49in (125cm).
Cast off.

GAUGE STRIP 3 FINISHING

10sts and 19 rows to 4in (10cm) over g st
using US15 (UK000/10mm) needles
Using yarn C and US15 (UK000/10mm)
needles, cast on 25sts and k 46 rows.
Change to yarn E and work 46 rows.
Change to yarn A and work 46 rows.
Change to yarn D and work 46 rows.
Change to yarn E and work 46 rows.
Strip should measure 49in (125cm).
Cast off.
STRIP 4
Using yarn A and US15 (UK000/10mm)
needles, cast on 25sts and k 46 rows.
Change to yarn D and work 46 rows.
Change to yarn B and work 46 rows.
Change to yarn A and work 46 rows.
Change to yarn D and work 46 rows.
Strip should measure 49in (125cm).
Cast off.
When sewing, use short pieces of yarn
and a blunt-ended, large-eyed needle.
The yarn will split quite easily so
be careful when pulling the yarn
through the fabric.
Lay the strips alongside each other
and match cast-on and cast-off edges.
Sew, with WS facing, using a whip
stitch. (It is best to use a whip stitch
on garter stitch strips because it
blends with the ridged texture of
the knitted fabric.)
Darn in all ends and block.
 CHUNKY PILLOW 309

CHUNKY PILLOW Level of difficulty

Add a splash of color to a sofa or chair with this quilted pillow. This chunky pillow uses

PROJECTS
an alternative to wool—a recycled fabric yarn—and features a panel where one strand is expressed

on the surface in a quilting style, which makes a subtle but stylish feature.

TECHNIQUES USED Single ribbing p.115, Stockinette stitch p.114, Simple decreases p.135, Casting off in rib effect p.107

SIZE PATTERN Rep these 2 rows 8 times, then work row 1

20 x 12in (52 x 32cm) approx.
YARN
Hoooked Zpagetti Super Chunky—850g
(100% recycled T-shirt yarn)
Cast on 41sts on US17 (UKn/a/12mm)
needles using a preferred cast-on method.
Work in single rib as follows:
Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1: rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: P1, *k1, p1: rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows three times more.
once more, to end with a WS row.
Change to US17 (UKn/a/12mm) needles
and work in single rib as follows:
Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1: rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: P1, *k1, p1: rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows once more.

Change to US19 (UKn/a/15mm) needles Buttonhole row (RS): (K1, p1) 3 times, *yo,
and work in st st as follows: p2tog, (k1, p1) twice, k1, yo, k2tog, (p1, k1)
Row 1 (RS): Knit. twice, p1: rep from * to last 7sts, yo, p2tog,
0036 Cobalt Sea x 2 (k1, p1) twice, k1.
Row 2: Purl.
Rep these 2 rows 8 times. Then work row 1
NEEDLES once more, to end with a RS row. Cont in single rib as set for another 3 rows.
Cast off in rib pattern.
A: 1 pair of US17 (UKn/a/12mm) needles
B: 1 pair of US19 (UKn/a/15mm) needles Work in quilting patt as follows:
Row 1 (WS): P3, *sl5 with yarn at the back of FINISHING
work (wyib), p1: rep from * to last 2 sts, p2. With RS facing, overlap the buttonhole
A
Row 2 (RS): Knit. band on top of the button band and put
Row 3: Purl. this central to the back of the pillow. Sew
B
Row 4: K2, sl3 wyib, *insert right needle the side seams. Darn in ends and attach
from front to back under the loose strand buttons. Insert pillow form.
from row 1 and knit the next stitch,
NOTIONS
slipping the loose strand over the stitch so
2in (50mm) buttons x 5
that it is caught, sl5 wyib: rep from * to last
20 x 12in (51 x 31cm) approx. pillow 6sts, knit loose strand with next st as
form or polyester stuffing before, sl3 wyib, k2.
Row 5: P2, sl3 wyib, *p1, sl5 wyib: rep from *
GAUGE to last 6sts, p1, sl3 wyib, p2.
Row 6: Knit.
7.5sts and 10 rows to 4in (10cm)
Row 7: Purl.
over st st using US19 (UKn/a/15mm) Row 8: K2, * insert right needle from front
needles to back under the loose strand from row 5
7.5sts and 15 rows to 4in (10cm) over and knit the next stitch, slipping the loose
quilting pattern using US19 needles strand over the stitch so that it is caught,
sl5 wyib: rep from * to last 3sts, knit loose
(UKn/a/15mm)
strand with next st as before, k2.
Rep these 8 rows twice more, to end with
a RS row.

Work in st st as follows: The quilting stitch panel features a

Row 1 (WS): Purl. series of loose strands that are caught and
Row 2 (RS): Knit. reattached a few rows above to create the
diamonds on the surface.
 COLOR-BLOCK BLANKET 311

COLOR-BLOCK BLANKET Level of difficulty

This cozy blanket uses stockinette stitch and the intarsia technique to create large

PROJECTS
patches of color inlaid into background shades. There are four designs in the blanket, but you could

use just one, or a mixture of two or three. Find the charts for these motifs on p.312.

TECHNIQUES USED Stockinette stitch p.114, Garter stitch p.114, Following a colorwork chart p.158, Intarsia p.164, Picking up stitches p.196

SIZE PATTERN SIDE BORDERS

50 x 42in (127 x 107cm) approx. Use the intarsia method and yarn bobbins. Using yarn B and US7 (UK7/ 4.5mm)
circular needles, pick up and k 5sts from
BORDERED SQUARE (MAKE 10) right bottom border edge, 210sts along
YARN blanket squares, and 5sts from top border
Using yarn B and US8 (UK6/5mm) needles,
Debbie Bliss Falkland Aran—100g edge. Work 10 rows in garter stitch and cast
cast on 48sts. Work as given for bordered
square chart (see p.312) for 68 rows, then off. Repeat for left border.
cast off. Darn in ends. Steam entire blanket lightly
under a damp cloth or as suitable for your
HEART SQUARE (MAKE 5) chosen yarn.
Using yarn A and US8 (UK6/5mm) needles,
cast on 48sts. Work as given for heart ASSEMBLED BLANKET
A B C D E square chart (see p.312) for 68 rows, then
cast off.
A: 01 Ecru x 4
B: 05 Camel x 5 MOON SQUARE (MAKE 2)
C: 03 Charcoal x 3 Using yarn D and US8 (UK6/5mm) needles,
cast on 48sts. Work as given for moon
D: 06 Ginger x 2
square chart (see p.312) for 68 rows, then
E: 10 Teal x 1 cast off.

NEEDLES STAR SQUARE (MAKE 3)

A: 1 pair of US8 (UK6/5mm) needles Using yarn A and US8 (UK6/5mm) needles,
cast on 48sts. Work as given for star square
B: 1 pair of US7 (UK7/4.5mm) circular
chart (see p.312) for 68 rows, then cast off.
needles 47in (120cm) long
A Block all squares according to ballband
instructions and arrange squares into
B the pattern as shown. Whip stitch all
squares together or use mattress stitch
to join more invisibly, if desired.
NOTIONS
Yarn bobbins BOTTOM AND TOP BORDERS
Using yarn B and US7 (UK7/ 4.5mm)
GAUGE circular needles, and with RS facing, pick
19sts and 28 rows to 4in (10cm) over st st up and k 192sts across bottom edge of the
blanket (cast-on edge of squares). Work 10
using US8 (UK6/5mm) needles
rows in garter stitch and cast off. Repeat for
top edge of blanket.
 312 PROJECTS

COLOR-BLOCK BLANKET CHARTS

68 KEY 68 KEY
PROJECTS

Yarn B Yarn E

60 Yarn C 60 Yarn A

50 50

40 40

30 30

20 20

10 10

68 KEY 68 KEY
Yarn B Yarn D

60 Yarn D 60 Yarn A

50 50

40 40

30 30

20 20

10 10
COLOR-BLOCK BLANKET 313
 MAGMA FELTED PILLOW 315

MAGMA FELTED PILLOW Level of difficulty

Use the intarsia method of colorwork to create a gentle and mesmerizing flow

PROJECTS
of shapes. The blobs of color are eased into shape by the felting process (done in your washing

machine); it’s a good idea to felt a test swatch before starting on the pillow itself.

TECHNIQUES USED Stockinette stitch p.114, Following a colorwork chart p.158, Intarsia p.164, Sewing in a zipper p.219, Felted knitting p.244

SIZE PATTERN Felt in the washing machine at 140°F

(After felting) 12in (30cm) square PILLOW PIECES (MAKE 2)
Cast on 88sts. Using the intarsia method
approx.
and yarn bobbins, complete rows 1–120
on the chart (enlarge as necessary). Cast off.
YARN
Rowan Kid Classic—50g (70% wool, FINISHING
22% mohair, 8% polyamide) Darn in all ends. Pin pieces together with
RS facing, matching cast-on and cast-off
edges. Join row ends and cast-off edges
using a blunt needle and a long backstitch.
Turn right side out. Tack cast-on edges
A B
together using mercerized cotton.
A: 828 Feather x 2
B: 876 Drought x 2 CHART
NEEDLES
1 pair of US8 (UK6/5mm) needles
(60°C) (or the temperature based on your
test swatch). Remove tacking, reshape, stuff
with plastic bags, and safety-pin together
the cast-on edges to hold it in shape.
Let it dry.
Insert a zipper (see p.219) to make the
cover easy to remove and wash. The felted
fabric will be very thick, so you will need
to use the sharp needle. Put the pillow form
inside its cover. Or, insert the form and sew
the bottom edges together.
120 KEY
Yarn A
110
Yarn B

100
NOTIONS A larger version
Yarn bobbins of this chart is also
90 given on p.355.
1 blunt-ended darning needle
1 sharp-ended darning needle
80
Mercerized cotton thread
Large safety pins
70
12 x 12in (30 x 30cm) pillow form
12in (30cm) zipper (optional)
60
GAUGE
(Before felting) 19sts and 25 rows to 50
4in (10cm) over st st using US8
(UK6/5mm) needles 40

30

20

10
 ARM-KNITTED RUG 317

ARM-KNITTED RUG Level of difficulty

No needles are required for this project, which uses multiple strands to create a

PROJECTS
textured and more solid-feeling rug underfoot. A trio of colors with one used as an accent color

adds a vibrancy and allows for endless color combinations for future projects.

TECHNIQUES USED Making a slip knot p.252, Long tail cast-on p.253, Knit stitch p.254, Purl stitch p.255, Casting off p.258, Weaving in ends p.259

SIZE PATTERN
26½ x 35½in (67 x 90cm) approx. With 1 strand from each ball held
together (5 strands total), cast on 20sts
YARN using a long tail or thumb cast-on method
and your arm.
Hoooked Zpagetti Super Chunky—850g
Make the slip knot about 51⁄2yd (5m) from
(100% recycled T-shirt yarn) the ends, and make sure the tail is the end
that is toward you (around your thumb).

Note that all rows are RS rows. Work in

pattern as follows:
A B C Row 1 (RS): K1, *sl2 knitwise with yarn in
front (wyif), k2: rep from * to last 3sts, sl2
A: Bordeaux Autumn x 2 knitwise wyif, k1.
B: Glittering Fuchsia x 2 Row 2 (RS): P1, k2, *sl2 knitwise wyif, k2:
C: Red Romance x 1 rep from * to last st, p1.
Rep these 2 rows until rug measures 35½in
(90cm), measured from the cast-on edge
GAUGE
and ending with row 2.
3sts and 4.5 rows to 4in (10cm) over Cast off firmly. Weave in ends with
pattern using arm knitting your hands.
Using multiple thinner yarns creates an
attractive random color mix and adds texture
to the knit. Sometimes using multiple strands
produces a denser knit than one thick strand
of the same yarn.
 STITCH
PATTERNS
 320 STITCH PATTERNS
KNIT AND PURL STITCH PATTERNS
S T I T C H PAT T E R N S
SEED
Instructions
For an even number of sts:
Row 1: *K1, p1, rep from *.
Row 2: *P1, k1, rep from *.
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt.
For an odd number of sts:
Row 1: *K1, p1, rep from * to
last st, k1.
Rep row 1 to form patt.
DOUBLE RIB
Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 4sts.
Row 1: *K2, p2, rep from *.
Rep row 1 to form patt.
TEXTURED RIB
Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 4sts plus
3 extra sts.
Row 1: K3, *p1, k3, rep from *.
Row 2: K1, *p1, k3, rep from *
to last 2sts, p1, k1.
Rows 3–6: [Rep rows 1 and 2]
twice.
Row 7: K1, *p1, k3, rep from * to
last 2sts, p1, k1.
Row 8: K3, *p1, k3, rep from *.
Rows 9–12: [Rep rows 7 and 8]
twice.
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.
SINGLE RIB
Instructions
For an even number of sts.
Row 1: *K1, p1, rep from * to end.
Rep row 1 to form patt.
For an odd number of sts:
Row 1: *K1, p1, rep from * to
last st, k1.
Row 2: *P1, k1, rep from * to
last st, p1.
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt.
BASKETWEAVE
Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 8sts.
Rows 1–5: *K4, p4, rep from *.
Rows 6–10: *P4, k4, rep from *.
Rep rows 1–10 to form patt.
STRIPED BOX
Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 6sts plus
3 extra sts.
Row 1 and all odd-numbered
rows (RS): K.
Row 2: K.
Rows 4 and 6: P3, *k3, p3, rep
from *.
Rows 8 and 10: K.
Rows 12 and 14: K3, *p3, k3, rep
from *.
Row 16: K.
Rep rows 1–16 to form patt.
 KNIT AND PURL STITCH PATTERNS 321

STOCKINETTE BOX DIAMOND

Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 10sts plus Cast on a multiple of 9sts.
5 extra sts. Row 1 (RS): K2, *p5, k4, rep
Row 1: *K5, p5, rep from * to last from * to last 7sts, p5, k2.
5sts, k5. Row 2: P1, *k7, p2, rep from
Row 2: P. * to last 8sts, k7, p1.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more, Row 3: P.
then row 1 again. Row 4: Rep row 2.
Row 8: K5, *p5, k5, rep from * Row 5: Rep row 1.
to end. Row 6: P3, *k3, p6, rep from *
Row 9: K. to last 6sts, k3, p3.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more, Row 7: K4, *p1, k8, rep from *
then row 8 again. to last 5sts, p1, k4.
Row 8: Rep row 6.
Rep rows 1–8 to form patt.

ENGLISH RIB (SEE DOUBLE STITCH, P.165) FISHERMAN’S RIB (See Double stitch, p.165)

Instructions Instructions
Cast on an odd number of sts. Cast on an odd number of sts
Row 1: S1, *p1, k1, rep from * to and knit 1 row.
end. Row 1 (RS): S1, *k1b, p1, rep
Row 2: S1, *k1b, p1, rep from * from * to end.
to end. Row 2: S1, *p1, k1b, rep from *
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt. to last 2sts, p1, k1.
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt.

MOSS MOCK RIB

Instructions Instructions
Cast on an odd number of sts. Cast on an odd number of sts.
Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1, rep from * to Row 1 (RS): *P1, k1, rep from * to
last st, k1. last st, k1.
Row 2: *P1, k1, rep from * to last Row 2: K.
st, p1. Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt.
Row 3: As row 2.
Row 4: As row 1.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.
 322 STITCH PATTERNS

TRAVELING RIB BROKEN RIB

S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 4sts. Cast on a multiple of 4sts plus
Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2, rep from * to 2 extra sts.
end. Row 1 (RS): *K3, p1, rep from * to
Row 2: As row 1. last 2sts, k2.
Row 3: *K1, p2, k1, rep from * to Row 2: P1, *k3, p1, rep from * to
end. last st, k1.
Row 4: *P1, k2, p1, rep from * to Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt.
end.
Row 5: *P2, k2, rep from * to end.
Row 6: As row 5.
Row 7: As row 4.
Row 8: As row 3.
Rep rows 1–8 to form patt.

BROKEN SEED GARTER RIB

Instructions Instructions
Cast on an odd number of sts. Cast on a multiple of 8sts plus
Row 1 (RS): K. 4 extra sts.
Row 2: *P1, k1, rep from * to last Row 1 (RS): K4, *p4, k4, rep from
st, k1. * to end.
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt. Row 2: P.
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt.

SEED STITCH COLUMNS DOUBLE SEED

Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 6sts plus 4 Cast on a multiple of 6sts plus 2
extra sts. extra sts.
Row 1 (RS): K4, *k1, p1, k4, rep Row 1 (RS): K.
from * to end. Row 2: K2, *p4, k2, rep from * to
Row 2: *P5, k1, rep from * to last end.
4sts, p4. Row 3: As row 1.
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt. Row 4: P2, *p1, k2, p3, rep from *
to end.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.
 INCREASING AND DECREASING 323

INCREASING AND DECREASING

BASIC CHEVRON GARTER CHEVRON

Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 12sts. Cast on a multiple of 11sts.
Row 1 (RS): *K2tog, k3, [inc in Row 1 (WS): K.
next st] twice, k3, s1 k1 psso, rep Rows 2, 3, 4, and 5: As row 1.
from * to end. Row 6: *K2tog, k2, [inc in next st]
Row 2: P. twice, k3, s1 k1 psso, rep from *
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt. to end.
Row 7: P.
Rep last 2 rows twice more, then
row 6 again.
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.

FEATHER AND FAN DIAGONAL RIB

Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 18sts plus Cast on a multiple of 2sts.
2 extra sts. Row 1 (WS): *K1, p1, rep from *
Row 1 (RS): K. to end.
Row 2: P. Row 2: S1 p1 psso, *k1, p1, rep
Row 3: K1, *[k2tog] three times, from * to last 2sts, k1, [p1, k1]
[yo, k1] six times, [k2tog] three into next st.
times, rep from * to last st, k1. Row 3: *P1, k1, rep from * to last
Row 4: K. 2sts, p2.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt. Row 4: S1 k1 psso, *p1, k1, rep
from * to last 2sts, p1 [k1 p1] into
next st.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.

BLACKBERRY PUFF

Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 4sts plus 2 Cast on a multiple of 4sts plus
extra sts. one extra st.
Row 1 (RS): P. Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: K1, *[k1, p1, k1] into next Row 2: P.
st, p3tog, rep from * to last st, k1. Row 3: K1, *p3tog without
Row 3: P. removing these sts from needle,
Row 4: K1, *p3tog, [k1, p1, k1] yrn, re-insert RH needle into 3
into next st, rep from * to previously worked sts and p3tog,
last st, k1. this time removing them from
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt. LH needle, k1, rep from * to end.
Row 4: P.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.
 324 STITCH PATTERNS
BOBBLE
S T I T C H PAT T E R N S
Instructions
Cast on an odd number of sts.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: K1, *work [p1, k1] twice into next st, pass 2nd,
3rd, and 4th sts over the first st on right needle, k1, rep
from * to end.
Row 3: As row 1.
INCREASING AND DECREASING: FLOWER PATTERNS
TWELVE-PETAL FLOWER
Instructions
Worked in yarn A (petals) and yarn B (flower
center).
Using knit-on cast-on method (see p. 92) and
yarn A, cast on 12sts, leaving a yarn tail at
least 10in (25cm) long.
Row 1 (RS): Cast off 10sts knitwise and slip st
on right needle back onto left needle. (2sts)
Note: Do not turn the work when working
petals, but keep RS always facing.
Row 2 (RS): Cast on 12sts on the left needle using knit-on cast-on
method, then cast off 10sts knitwise and slip st on right needle back
onto left needle. (4sts)
Rows 3–12: [Rep row 2] ten more times to make a total of 12 petals
(24sts—2sts at base of each petal).
Cut off yarn A.
Using yarn B and working across all 24sts, cont in usual rows for
flower center as foll:
SPINNING-PETAL FLOWER
Instructions
Worked in yarn A (petals) and yarn B (flower
center).
Using knit-on cast-on method (see p.92) and
yarn A, cast on 10sts, leaving a yarn tail at
least 10in (25cm) long.
Row 1 (RS): K8 and turn, leaving rem sts
unworked.
Row 2 (WS): K to end.
Rows 3 and 4: Rep rows 1 and 2.
Row 5 (RS): Cast off 8sts loosely knitwise, slip st on right needle
back onto left needle. (2sts)
Note: Do not turn work after last row of each petal (cast-off row),
but keep RS facing for next row.
Row 6 (RS): Cast on 10sts on left needle using knit-on cast-on
method, k8 and turn.
Row 4: K2, *work [p1, k1] twice into next st, pass 2nd,
3rd, and 4th sts over the first st on right needle, k1, rep
from * to last st, k1.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.
Row 13 (RS): [K2tog] twelve times. (12sts)
Row 14 (WS): K.
Row 15 (RS): K.
**Slip all sts back onto the left needle. Then cut off the yarn, leaving
a yarn tail at least 10in (25cm) long. Thread the yarn tail through a
blunt-ended yarn needle. With RS facing, thread the yarn through
the rem sts, slipping them off the knitting needle as you proceed.
Pull the yarn tightly to gather sts firmly. With WS facing and still
using the threaded yarn needle, whip stitch the row ends of the
flower center together, working from the center to the beginning
of the petal yarn. Knot the ends of the matching yarn together, close
to the work on WS, then knot all of the yarn ends together close
to WS. To form the stem, braid together the yarn ends, holding 2
ends of A together and using B strands singly for 3 strands of the
braid. Knot the end of the stem and trim the yarn ends.**
Do not press.
Rows 7, 8, 9, and 10: Rep rows 2–5 of first petal. (4sts)
[Rep rows 6–10] 5 more times to make a total of 7 petals
(14sts—2sts at base of each petal).
Cut off yarn A.
Using yarn B and working across all 14sts, cont in usual rows
for flower center as foll:
K 3 rows.
P 1 row.
K 1 row, so ending with a RS row.
Finish as for Twelve-Petal Flower (above) from ** to **.
Do not press.
Decorate the center with a small button, if desired.

ANEMONE
Instructions
Note: Slip all slip sts purlwise with yarn at
WS of work.
Worked in yarn A (petals) and yarns B and
C (flower center).
Using long-tail cast-on method (see p.95)
and yarn A, cast on 41sts, leaving a yarn
tail at least 10in (25cm) long.
Row 1 (RS): *S1, k7, rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 2: *S1, k to end.
Row 3: Rep row 1.
Row 4: *S1, p7, *s1, take the yarn to the back of the work between
2 needles, then around knitting over cast-on edge, over top of
knitting between 2 needles, and around cast-on edge again,
so ending at the front of the work. Pull the yarn to gather knitting
tightly, p7, rep from * to last st, k1.
Cut off yarn A and change to B.
Row 5: *K2tog, rep from * to last 3sts, s1 k2tog psso. (20sts)
Row 6: K.
Cut off yarn B and change to C.
Row 7: [K2tog] ten times. (10sts)
Finish as for Twelve-Petal Flower (opposite) from ** to **, but
also using yarn A to sew a short petal seam (leaving part of the
seam unworked to create an indent between the petals as
between the other petals) and making a braid with 2 strands
each of A, B, and C.
Do not press.
LARGE LEAF
Instructions
Note: Although the stem is worked on two
double-pointed needles, you can change to
ordinary needles after row 1. Using any
cast-on method, cast on 3sts on a double-
pointed needle and k 1 row (this is RS). Cord
row (RS): With RS still facing, slide sts to the
opposite end of the needle, then take the yarn
across WS of the work, pull yarn tightly, and k
to end. Rep cord row until stem is desired length.
Row 1 (RS): With RS of work still facing, slide sts to the opposite end
of the needle, then take the yarn across WS of the work, pull the
yarn tightly, and work k1, [yo, k1] twice. (5sts)
Cont in rows, turning the work in the usual way.
Row 2 (WS): K2, p1, k2.
Row 3: K2, yo, k1, yo, k2. (7sts)
Row 4 (WS): Cast on 1 st on the left needle (using knit-on cast-on
method), cast off 1 st (knitwise), k to center st, p center st, k to
end. (7sts)
INCREASING AND DECREASING: FLOWER PATTERNS 325
PUFFBALL FLOWER
Instructions
Cast on 7sts.
Row 1 (RS): *K1, yo, rep from * to last st, k1.
(13sts)
Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P.
Row 3: *K2, yo, rep from * to last st, k1.
(19sts)
Row 5: *K3, yo, rep from * to last st, k1.
(25sts)
Row 7: *K4, yo, rep from * to last st, k1. (31sts)
Row 9: *K5, yo, rep from * to last st, k1. (37sts)
Row 11: *K6, yo, rep from * to last st, k1. (43sts)
Row 13: *K7, yo, rep from * to last st, k1. (49sts)
Row 15: K.
Row 17: *K6, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. (43sts)
Row 19: *K5, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. (37sts)
Row 21: *K4, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. (31sts)
Row 23: *K3, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. (25sts)
Row 25: *K2, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. (19sts)
Row 27: *K1, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. (13sts)
Row 29: *K2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. (7sts)
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and draw through the remaining
7sts. Using the tail of the yarn, continue to join row ends using
mattress stitch with RS facing, draw through the cast-on edge,
and pull tight. Align cast-on edge center with cast-off edge, and
squash flower flat so that these 2 edges meet. Join with a few
stitches through the center and embellish with beads or buttons
at the center, if desired.
Row 5: Cast on 1 st on the left needle, cast off 1 st, k to
center st, yo, k center st, yo, k to end. (9sts)
Rows 6–9: [Rep rows 4 and 5] twice. (13sts)
Row 10: Rep row 4. (13sts)
Row 11: Cast on 1 st on the left needle, cast off 1 st, k to
end. (13sts)
Row 12: Rep row 4. (13sts)
Row 13: Cast on 1 st on the left needle, cast off 1 st, k to 2sts before
center st, k2tog, k center st, ssk, k to end. (11sts)
Rows 14–19: [Rep rows 4 and 13] 3 times. (5sts)
Row 20: K2, p1, k2.
Row 21: K2tog, k1, ssk. (3sts)
Row 22: K1, p1, k1.
Row 23: S1 k2tog psso and fasten off. Darn in yarn ends.
Do not press.
 326 STITCH PATTERNS

FLOWER WITH SMALL CENTER FLOWER WITH LARGE CENTER

S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions
Worked in yarn A (outer petal), yarn B
(inner petal), and yarn C (flower center).
Using long-tail cast-on method (see p.95)
and yarn A, cast on 90sts, leaving a yarn
tail at least 10in (25cm) long.
Row 1 (WS): K6, s1 k2tog psso, *k12, s1
k2tog psso, rep from * to last 6sts, k6.
Cut off yarn A and change to B.
Row 2 (RS): *K1, cast off next 11sts knitwise, rep from *. (12sts)
Cut off yarn B and change to C.
Row 3: P.
Row 4: *K2tog, k1, rep from *. (8sts)
Finish as for Twelve-Petal Flower (see p.324) from ** to **, but also
using yarn A to sew the beginning and end of cast-on sts
together and making braid with two strands each of A, B, and C.
Do not press.
Instructions
Worked in yarn A (outer petal), yarn B
(inner petal), and yarn C (flower center).
Using long-tail cast-on method (see p.95)
and yarn A, cast on 72sts, leaving a yarn
tail at least 10in (25cm) long. Cut
off yarn A and change to B.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: *Kfb, cast off next 10sts knitwise,
rep from *. (18sts)
Cut off yarn B and change to C.
Row 3: K.
Row 4: *K4, k2tog, rep from *. (15sts)
Row 5: K.
Row 6: P.
Row 7: *K1, k2tog, rep from * to end. (10sts)
Finish as for Twelve-Petal Flower (see p.324) from ** to **, but also
using yarn A to sew the beginning and end of cast-on sts
together and making a braid with two strands each of A, B, and C.
Do not press.
Decorate the center with a small button, if desired.

CABLE AND TWIST STITCH PATTERNS

KEY MB = make
K on RS rows, P on WS rows T2L bobble k2tog s1 k2tog psso CR4L
P on RS rows, K on WS rows T2R yfwd ssk s2 K1 p2sso CR4R

C4B C6B C8B CR2R

C4F C6F C8F CR2L

FOUR-STITCH CABLE

Instructions 4 5
Special abbreviations
2 Rep rows 2–5
C4F: Slip the next 2sts onto the cable needle 3
and hold at the front of the work, k2 from the
left needle, then k2 from the cable needle. 1
C4B: Slip the next 2sts onto the cable needle (RS)
and hold at back of work, k2 from the left
Rep = 14sts
needle, then k2 from the cable needle.

Cast on a multiple of 14sts plus 3 extra sts.

Row 1 (RS): P3, *k4, p3, rep from *.
Row 2: K3, *p4, k3, rep from *.
Row 3: P3, *k4, p3, C4F, p3, rep from *.
Row 4: Rep row 2.
Row 5: P3, *C4B, p3, k4, p3, rep from *.
Rep rows 2–5 to form patt.
 CABLE AND TWIST STITCH PATTERNS 327

MEDALLION CABLE

Instructions 9
Special abbreviations 8
C4F: Slip the next 2sts onto the cable needle 7 Rep
and hold at the front of the work, k2 from the 6 rows
left needle, then k2 from the cable needle. 5 2–9
C4B: Slip next 2sts onto the cable needle and 4
3
hold at the back of the work, k2 from the left 2
needle, then k2 from the cable needle. 1 (RS)
Cast on a multiple of 22sts plus 3 extra sts.
Row 1 (RS): P3, *k8, p3, rep from *. Rep = 22sts
Row 2 and all even-numbered (WS) rows: K3, *p8, k3, rep from *.
Row 3: P3, *k8, p3, C4B, C4F, p3, rep from *.
Row 5: P3, *C4B, C4F, p3, k8, p3, rep from *.
Row 7: P3, *k8, p3, C4F, C4B, p3, rep from *.
Row 9: P3, *C4F, C4B, p3, k8, p3, rep from *.
Rep rows 2–9 to form patt.

SIX-STITCH CABLE

Instructions 9
Special abbreviations 8
C6F: Slip the next 3sts onto the cable needle 7 Rep
and hold at the front of the work, k3 from the 6 rows
left needle, then k3 from the cable needle. 5 2–9
C6B: Slip the next 3sts onto the cable needle 4
3
and hold at the back of the work, k3 from the 2
left needle, then k3 from the cable needle. 1
Cast on a multiple of 18sts plus 3 extra sts. (RS)
Row 1 (RS): P3, *k6, p3, rep from *. Rep = 18sts
Row 2 and all even-numbered (WS) rows: K3, *p6, k3, rep from *.
Row 3: P3, *k6, p3, C6F, p3, rep from *.
Row 5: Rep row 1.
Row 7: P3, *C6B, p3, k6, p3, rep from *.
Row 9: Rep row 1.
Rep rows 2–9 to form patt.

HORSESHOE CABLE

Instructions 9
Special abbreviations 8
C4F: Slip the next 2sts onto the cable needle 7 Rep
and hold at the front of the work, k2 from 6 rows
the left needle, then k2 from the cable needle. 5 2–9
C4B: Slip the next 2sts onto the cable needle 4
and hold at the back of the work, k2 from the
3
2
left needle, then k2 from the cable needle. 1
Cast on a multiple of 22sts plus 3 extra sts. (RS)
Row 1 (RS): P3, *k8, p3, rep from *. Rep = 22sts
Row 2 and all even-numbered (WS) rows: K3, *p8, k3, rep from *.
Row 3: P3, *k8, p3, C4B, C4F, p3, rep from *.
Row 5: Rep row 1.
Row 7: P3, *C4B, C4F, p3, k8, p3, rep from *.
Row 9: Rep row 1.
Rep rows 2–9 to form patt.
 328 STITCH PATTERNS

BRAIDED CABLE DIAMOND CABLE

S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions
Special abbreviations
C8F: Place 4sts on the cable
needle and leave at the front of
the work, k4 from the left needle,
then k4 from the cable needle.
C8B: Place 4sts on the cable
needle and leave at the back of
the work, k4 from the left needle,
then k4 from the cable needle.
Cast on a multiple of 20sts.
Row 1: *P4, k12, p4, rep from * to end.
Row 2 and all foll alt rows: *K4, p12, k4, rep from * to end.
Row 3: *P4, C8F, k4, p4, rep from * to end.
Rows 5 and 7: As row 1.
Row 9: *P4, k4, C8B, rep from * to end.
Row 11: As row 1.
Row 12: As row 2.
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.
Instructions
Special abbreviations
CR4L: Place 2sts on the cable needle and
leave at the front of the work, p2 from the
left needle, then k2 from the cable needle.
CR4R: Place 2sts on the cable needle and
leave at the back of the work, k2 from the
left needle, then p2 from the cable needle.
C4F: Place 2sts on the cable needle and
leave at the front of the work, k2, then k2 from the cable needle.
Cast on a multiple of 20sts.
Row 1: *P8, C4F, p8, rep from * to end.
Row 2: *K8, p4, k8, rep from * to end.
Row 3: *P6, CR4R, CR4L, p6, rep from * to end.
Row 4: *K6, p2, k4, p2, k6, rep from * to end.
Row 5: *P4, CR4R, p4, CR4L, p4, rep from * to end.
Row 6: *K4, p2, k8, p2, k4, rep from * to end.
Row 7: *P2, CR4R, p8, CR4L, p2, rep from * to end.
Row 8: *K2, p2, k12, p2, k2, rep from * to end.
Row 9: *P2, CR4L, p8, CR4R, p2, rep from * to end.
Row 10: As row 6.
Row 11: *P4, CR4L, p4, CR4R, p4, rep from * to end.
Row 12: As row 4.
Row 13: *P6, CR4L, CR4R, p6, rep from * to end.
Row 14: As row 2.
Rep rows 1–14 to form patt.

12 14
11 13
10 12
9 11
8 10
7 9
6 8
5 7
4 6
3 5
2 4
1 3
2
1

SMOCKED RIBBING

Instructions Row 3: P1, smock 5sts, *p3, smock 5sts, rep from * to
Special abbreviation last st, p1.
smock 5sts: Slip the next 5sts onto the cable needle Row 4: As row 2.
and leave at the front of the work, bring the yarn to Row 5: As row 1.
the front of the work, and wrap counterclockwise Rep last 2 rows once more, and row 2 again.
around these stitches twice so that the yarn now Row 9: P1, k1, p3, *smock 5sts, p3, rep from * to last
sits at the back of the work. Work (k1, p3, k1) from 2sts, k1, p1.
the cable needle. Rows 10 and 12: As row 2.
Cast on a multiple of 8sts, plus 7 extra sts. Row 11: As row 1.
Row 1 (RS): P1, k1, *p3, k1, rep from * to last st, p1. Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.
Row 2: K1, p1, *k3, p1, rep from * to last st, k1.
 CABLE AND TWIST STITCH PATTERNS 329

GARTER ZIGZAG TWIST

Instructions Row 4: *K4, p1, k1, rep from * to last st, k1.
Special abbreviations Row 5: K1, *k1, T2L, k3 rep from *.
T2R (twist 2 right): Skip the first st on the left Row 6: *K3, p1, k2 rep from * to last st, k1.
needle and k 2nd st through the front of the loop Row 7: K1, *k2, T2L, k2 rep from *.
(do not drop st off the left needle), then k first st on Row 8: *K2, p1, k3, rep from * to last st, k1.
the left needle and drop both sts off the left needle Row 9: K1, *k3, T2L, k1, rep from *.
at the same time. Row 10: *K1, p1, k4, rep from * to last st, k1.
T2L (twist 2 left): Skip the first st on the left needle Row 11: K1, *k3, T2R, k1, rep from *.
and k 2nd st by taking the right needle behind the Row 12: Rep row 8.
first st to do so (do not drop st off the left needle), Row 13: K1, *k2, T2R, k2, rep from *.
then k first st on the left needle and drop both sts Row 14: Rep row 6.
off the left needle at the same time. Row 15: K1, *k1, T2R, k3, rep from *.
Cast on a multiple of 6sts plus 1 extra. Row 16: Rep row 4.
18 Row 1 (RS): K. Row 17: K1, *T2R, k4, rep from *.
17 Row 2: *K5, p1, rep from * to last st, k1. Row 18: Rep row 2.
16 Row 3: K1, *T2L, k4, rep from *. Rep rows 3–18 to form patt.
15
14
13
12 Rep
11 rows
10 3–18
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1 (RS)

Rep = 6sts

GARTER STITCH CABLE

Instructions 24
Special abbreviation 23
C8F: Place 4sts on the cable needle 22
and leave at the front of the work, k4 21
from the left needle, then k4 from 20
the cable needle. 19
18
Cast on a multiple of 18sts. 17
Row 1 (RS): *P5, k8, p5, rep from * to 16
end. 15
Row 2: *K9, p4, k5, rep from * to end. 14
Rep last 2 rows twice more. 13
Row 7: *P5, *C8F, p5, rep from * 12
11
to end.
10
Row 8: *K5, p4, k9, rep from * to end. 9
Row 9: As row 1. 8
Rep last 2 rows four more times, 7
then row 8 again. 6
Row 19: As row 7. 5
4
Row 20: As row 2.
Row 21: As row 1. 3
2
Row 22: As row 2. 1
Row 23: As row 1.
Row 24: As row 2.
Rep rows 1–24 form patt.
 330 STITCH PATTERNS

BOBBLE CABLE
S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions
Special abbreviations
C8B: Place 4sts on the cable needle and leave at the back, k4, then k4 from the cable needle.
MB: Make bobble as follows. [(K1, yo) twice, k1, turn, p5, turn, slip 4sts onto RH needle, k1,
then pass 4 slipped stitches over (one by one), all into next st.
Row 1: K.
Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P.
Row 3: K. 14
Row 5: K2, *C8B, rep from * to 13
last 2sts, k2. 12
Row 7: K2, *MB, k7, rep from
11
10
* to last 2sts, k2. 9 Rep
Row 9: K. 8 rows
Row 11: K6, *C8B, rep from 7 3-14
* to last 6sts, k6. 6
Row 13: K6, *MB, k7, rep from 5
* to last 13sts, k13. 4
3
Row 14: As row 2.
2
Rep rows 3–14 to form patt. 1 (RS)

6 edge sts 6 edge sts

WOVEN CABLE

Instructions
Special abbreviations Cast on a multiple of 6sts 8
C6F: Place 3sts on the (a minimum of 12sts).
7
cable needle and leave Row 1 (RS): K.
6
5
at the front of the work, Row 2 and all foll alt
4
k3, then k3 from the rows: P.
3
cable needle. Row 3: K3, *C6B, rep from
2
C6B: Place 3sts on the * to last 3sts, k3. 1 (RS)
cable needle and leave Row 5: K.
at the back of the work, Row 7: * C6F, rep from * 3 edge sts 3 edge sts
k3, then k3 from to end.
cable needle. Row 8: As row 2.
Rep rows 1–8 to
form patt.

CABLE BOXES

Instructions Row 4: As row 2. 12

Special abbreviation Row 5: *P4, C4F, rep from 11
C4F: Place 2sts on the * to last 4sts, p4. 10
cable needle and leave Rows 6 and 7: As row 2.
9
8
at the front of the work, Row 8: As row 1. 7
k2, then k2 from the Row 9: As row 2. 6
cable needle. Row 10: As row 1. 5
Cast on a multiple of 8sts Row 11: *C4F, p4, rep 4
plus 4 extra sts. from * to last 4sts, C4F. 3
Row 1 (RS): *P4, k4, rep Row 12: As row 1. 2
1 (RS)
from * to last 4sts, p4. Rep rows 1–12 to
Row 2: K4, *p4, k4, rep form patt. Rep = 8sts
from *.
Row 3: As row 1.
 CABLE AND TWIST STITCH PATTERNS 331

MOCK CABLE

Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 5 sts plus 2 extra sts.
Note: The stitch count varies from row to
row.
Row 1 (RS): P2, *yarn to back of work
between 2 needles, s1 purlwise, k2, pass
slipped st over last 2 k sts and off right
needle, p2, rep from *.
Row 2: K2, *p1, yrn, p1, k2, rep from *.
Row 3: P2, *k3, p2, rep from *.
Row 4: K2, *p3, k2, rep from *.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.

WAVY CABLE FAN CABLE

Instructions Instructions
Special abbreviations Special abbreviations
CR2R: Skip the first st on the left needle CR2R: Skip the first st on the left needle
and k 2nd st through the front of the loop and k 2nd st through the front of the loop
(do not drop st off the left needle), then p (do not drop st off the left needle), then p
first st on the left needle and drop both sts first st on the left needle and drop both sts
off this needle at the same time. off this needle at same time.
CR2L: Skip the first st on the left needle CR2L: Skip the first st on the left needle
and p 2nd st by taking the right needle and p 2nd st by taking the right needle
behind the first st to do so (so do not drop st off the left needle), behind the first st to do so (so do not drop st off the left needle),
then k first st on the left needle and drop both sts off together. then k first st on the left needle and drop both sts off together.
Cast on a multiple of 3sts (a minimum of 9sts). Cast on a multiple of 14sts plus 2 extra sts.
Row 1 (RS): *P1, CR2R, rep from * to end. Row 1 and all foll alt rows (WS): P.
Row 2: * K1, p1, k1, rep from * to end. Row 2: *K6, CR2R, k6, rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 3: *CR2R, p1, rep from * to end. Row 4: *K5, CR2R, p1, k6, rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 4: *K2, p1, rep from * to end. Row 6: *K4, CR2R, p2, k6, rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 5: *K1, p2, rep from * to end. Row 8: *K3, CR2R, p3, k6, rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 6: As row 4. Row 10: *K2, CR2R, p4, k6, rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 7: *CR2L, p1, rep from * to end. Row 12: * K8, CR2L, k4, rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 8: As row 2. Row 14: *K8, p1, CR2L, k3, rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 9: *P1, CR2L, rep from * to end. Row 16: *K8, p2, CR2L, K2, rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 10: *P1, k2, rep from * to end. Row 18: *K8, p3, CR2L, k1, rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 11: *P2, k1, rep from * to end. Row 20: *K8, p4, CR2L, rep from * to last 2sts, k2.
Row 12: As row 10. Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.

12 20
11 19
10 18
9 17
8 16
7 15
6 14
13
5 12
4 11
3 10
2 9
1 8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1

Rep = 14sts
 332 STITCH PATTERNS

LACE STITCH PATTERNS

S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

KEY
S2, yo, p2sso s1 k2tog psso
K on RS rows, P on WS rows k2tog s2 k1 p2sso
P on RS rows, K on WS rows ssk

EYELET MESH

Instructions 4
Cast on a multiple of 3sts. 3
Row 1 (RS): K2, *k2tog, yo, k1, rep from * to last st, k1. Rep = 4 rows
2
Row 2: P. 1 (RS)
Row 3: K2, *yo, k1, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: P. Rep = 3sts
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.

LEAF EYELET

Instructions 12
Cast on a multiple of 8sts plus 7 extra sts. 11
Row 1 (RS): K. 10
Row 2 and all even-numbered (WS) rows: P. 9
Row 3: K2, *yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k5, rep from * to last 5sts, 8
yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k2. 7
6
Row 5: K2, *k1, yo, ssk, k5, rep from * to last 5sts, k1, yo, 5
ssk, k2. 4
Row 7: K. 3
Row 9: K2, *k4, yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k1, rep from * to last 2
5sts, k5. 1 (RS)
Row 11: K2, *k5, yo, ssk, k1, rep from * to last 5sts, k5.
Row 12: P. Rep = 8sts
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.

GRAND EYELET MESH

Instructions
Note: This fabric looks the same on both sides. When
blocking, stretch vertically to open eyelets.
Cast on a multiple of 3sts plus 4 extra sts.
Row 1: K2, *s1 k2tog psso, yo twice, rep from * to last
2sts, k2.
Row 2: K2, *[p1, k1] into double yo, p1, rep from * to
last 2sts, k2.
Row 3: K.
Rep rows 1–3 to form patt.
 LACE STITCH PATTERNS 333

VERTICAL MESH

Instructions
Cast on an odd number of sts.
Row 1: K1, *yo, k2tog, rep from *.
Row 2: P.
Row 3: *Ssk, yo, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: P.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.

MINI-LEAF

Instructions 4
Cast on a multiple of 6sts plus 2 extra sts. 3
Row 1 (RS): K1, *k3, yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, rep from * 2
to last st, k1. 1(RS)
Row 2: P.
Row 3: K1, *yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k3, rep from * to Rep = 6sts
last st, k1.
Row 4: P.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.

ARROWHEAD LACE

Instructions 8
Cast on a multiple of 8sts plus 5 extra sts. 7
Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, *k5, yo, s1 kstog 6
psso, yo, rep from * to last st, k1. 5
Row 2 and all even-numbered (WS) rows: P. 4
Row 3: Rep row 1. 3
Row 5: K4, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, rep from * to last 2
st, k1. 1 (RS)
Row 7: K1, yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, *k1, yo, s1 k2tog pssp,
yo, to last st, k1. Rep = 8sts
Row 8: P.
Rep rows 1–8 to form patt.
 334 STITCH PATTERNS

ZIGZAG MESH BIG-LEAF LACE

S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

4 12
3 Rep = 4 rows 11
2 10

Rep = 12 rows
1 (RS) 9
8
7
Rep = 10sts 6
5
4
3
2
1(RS)
Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 10sts plus 1 extra st. Rep = 8sts
Row 1 (RS): K1, *[yo, ssk] twice, k1, [k2tog, yo] twice, k1,
Instructions
rep from *.
Cast on a multiple of 8sts plus 2 extra sts.
Row 2: P.
Row 1 (RS): K2, *k1, k2tog, yo twice, ssk, k3, rep from * to end.
Row 3: K1, k1, *yo, ssk, yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k2tog, yo, k2,
Row 2 and all even-numbered (WS) rows: P, working [k1, p1] into
rep from * to end.
every double yo and p1 into single yo at beg and end of row.
Row 4: P.
Row 3: K2, *k2tog, k1, yo twice, k1, ssk, k2, rep from *.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.
Row 5: K1, *k2tog, k2, yo twice, k2, ssk, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 7: K1, yo, *ssk, k4, k2tog, yo twice, rep from * to last 9sts, ssk,
k4, k2tog, yo, k1.
Row 9: K1, yo, *k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1, yo twice, rep from * to last 9sts,
k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1, yo, k1.
Row 11: K1, yo, *k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo twice, rep from * to last 9sts,
k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1.
Row 12: Rep row 2.
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.

STAR EYELET

12
11
10
9
8 Rep =
7
6 12 rows
5 DOMINO EYELET
4
3
2 12
1 (RS) 11
10
Rep = 8sts 9
8
Instructions 7 Rep = 12 rows
Special abbreviation 6
5
s2 k1 p2sso: Slip 2sts, knit 1st, pass 2 slipped sts over. 4
Cast on a multiple of 8sts plus 5 extra sts. 3
Row 1 (RS): K4, *ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k3, rep from * to last st, k1. 2
1(RS)
Row 2 and all even-numbered (WS) rows: P.
Row 3: K5, *yo, s2 k1 p2sso, yo, k5, rep from *. Rep = 8sts
Row 5: Rep row 1.
Row 7: Ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, *k3, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, rep from *. Instructions
Row 9: K1, *yo, s2 k1 p2sso, yo, k5, rep from *, ending last rep k1 Cast on a multiple of 8sts.
(instead of k5). Row 1 (RS): P.
Row 11: Rep row 7. Row 2: K.
Row 12: P. Row 3: *K1, [yo, ssk] three times, k1, rep from *.
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt. Row 4 and all foll even-numbered (WS) rows: P.
Row 5: *K2, [yo, ssk] twice, k2, rep from *.
Row 7: *K3, yo, ssk, k3, rep from *.
Row 9: Rep row 5.
Row 11: Rep row 3.
Row 12: P.
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.
 LACE STITCH PATTERNS 335

LEAVES LACE DIAMOND LACE

12 12
11 11
10

Rep = 12 rows
10 9
9 8
8 7
7 Rep = 6
6 5
5 12 rows 4
3
4 2
3 1 (RS)
2
1 (RS) Rep = 10sts
Rep = 6sts
Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 6sts plus 1 extra st. Cast on a multiple of 10sts plus 1 extra st.
Row 1 (RS): K1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, rep from *. Row 1 (RS): K1, *k1, k2tog, [k1, yo] twice, k1, ssk, k2, rep from *.
Row 2: P. Row 2 and all even-numbered (WS) rows: P.
Rows 3–6: [Rep rows 1 and 2] twice. Row 3: K1, *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, k1, rep from *.
Row 7: K2, *yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, k3, rep from *, ending last rep k2 Row 5: K2tog, *k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, s1 k2tog psso, rep from *, ending
(instead of k3). last rep ssk (instead of s1 k2tog psso).
Row 8 and all foll even-numbered (WS) rows: P. Row 7: K1, *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, rep from *.
Row 9: K1, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, rep from *. Row 9: K1, *k1, yo, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, rep from *.
Row 11: K2tog, *yo, k3, yo, s1 k2tog psso, rep from * to last 5sts, yo, Row 11: K1, *k2, yo, k1, s1 k2tog psso, k1, yo, k3, rep from *.
k3, yo, ssk. Row 12: P.
Row 12: P. Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.

VICTORY LACE OPENWORK DIAMONDS

Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 8sts plus 6 extra sts. Cast on a multiple of 12sts plus 7 extra sts.
Row 1: K5, *s1 k1 psso, yo, k6, rep from * to Row 1 (RS): *K2, k2tog, yo, k8, rep from * to
last st, k1. last 7sts, k2, k2tog, yo, k3.
Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P. Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P.
Row 3: K4, *s1 k1 psso, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k3, Row 3: *K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k7, rep from
rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. * to last 7sts, k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 5: K3, *s1 k1 psso, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, Row 5: As row 1.
rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Row 7: K.
Row 7: K. Row 9: *K8, k2tog, yo, k2, rep from * to last
Row 8: P. 7sts, k7.
Rep rows 1–8 to form patt. Row 11: *K7, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, rep
from * to last 7sts, k7.
Row 13: As row 9.
Row 15: K.
Row 16: P.
Rep these 16 rows to form patt.
 336 STITCH PATTERNS

FAGGOTING DROP STITCH LACE

S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions Instructions
Cast on an even number of sts. Cast on any number of sts.
Row 1 (RS): K1, *yo, p2tog, rep Row 1 (WS): P.
from * to last st, k1. Row 2: K.
Row 2: As row 1. Row 3: P.
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt. Row 4: *Insert the right needle
into the next st as if to knit, wrap
the yarn around the right needle
three times and bring all 3 loops
through this st, rep from * to end.
Row 5: *Purl next st in first of the
3 loops only, allowing the
remaining 2 loops in this st to
fall off the left needle and extend
to full length, rep from * to end.
Rep rows 2–5 to form patt.

LADDER LACE EYELET LINES

Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 6sts plus 3 Cast on a multiple of 2sts.
extra sts. Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 1 (RS): K3, *yo, s1k, k2tog, Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P.
psso, yo, k3, rep from * to end. Row 3: As row 1.
Row 2: P. Row 5: K1, *k2tog, yo, rep from *
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt. to last st, k1.
Row 6: P.
Rep rows 1–6 to form patt.

NAUTICAL MOTIF

Instructions Row 8: P. 19
Cast on a minimum of 15sts. Row 9: K7, k2tog, yo, k to end. 18
Row 1 (RS): K7, k2tog, yo, k to Rep last two rows twice more, 17
16
end. then row 8 again. 15
Row 2: P6, p2tog tbl, yo, p1, yo, Row 15: K5 [k2tog, yo] twice, 14
p2tog, p to end. k1, yo, s1, k1, psso, k to end. 13
Row 3: K5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k1, Row 16: P 12
11
yo, s1, k1, psso, k to end. Row 17: As row 9. 10
Row 4: P4, p2tog tbl, yo, p5, yo, Row 18: P 9
p2tog, p to end. Row 19: As Row 9. 8
7
Row 5: K3, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, These 19 rows set the motif. 6
yo, k3, yo, s1, k1, psso, k to end. 5
Row 6: P. 4
Row 7: [K2tog, yo] twice, k3, 3
2
k2tog, yo, k4, [yo, s1,k1, psso] 1
twice.
 LACE STITCH PATTERNS 337

HORSESHOE LACE DIAGONAL LACE RIBS

Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 10sts plus Cast on a multiple of 7sts plus 1
1 extra st. extra st.
Row 1 (RS): K1, *yo, k3, s1 k2tog Row 1 (RS): P1, *yo, s1 k1 psso,
psso, k3, yo, k1, rep from * to end. k4, p1, rep from * to end.
Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P. Row 2 and all foll alt rows: K1,
Row 3: K2, *yo, k2, s1 k2tog psso, *p6, k1, rep from * to end.
k2, yo, k3, rep from * to last 9sts, Row 3: P1, * k1, yo, s1 k1 psso,
yo, k2, s1 k2tog psso, k2, yo, k2. k3, p1, rep from * to end.
Row 5: K3, *yo, k1, s1 k2tog psso, Row 5: P1, *k2, yo, s1 k1 psso, k2,
k1, yo, k5, rep from * to last 8sts, p1, rep from * to end.
yo, k1, s1 k2tog psso, k1, yo, k3. Row 7: P1, *k3, yo, s1 k1 psso, k1,
Row 7: K4, *yo, s1 k2tog psso, yo, p1, rep from * to end.
k7, rep from * to last 7sts, yo, s1 Row 9: P1, *k4, yo, s1 k1 psso, p1,
k2tog psso, yo, k4. rep from * to end.
Row 8: P. Row 10: As row 2.
Rep rows 1–8 to form patt. Rep rows 1–10 to form patt.

DROPPED STITCH PATTERN INTERWOVEN EYELETS

Instructions Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 4sts plus Cast on a multiple of 2sts plus 1
2 extra sts. extra st.
Row 1 (RS): K. Row 1 (RS): K1, *s1 k1 psso, yo,
Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P. rep from * to last st.
Row 3: K1, *k2, yo, k2, rep from * Row 2: K1, p1, *yo, p2tog, rep
to last st, k1. from * to last st, k1.
Row 5: K. Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt.
Row 7: K1, *yo, k2, drop next st off
the left needle and allow to
ladder down to yo worked on row
3, k2, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 9: K.
Row 11: K1, *drop next st off the
left needle and allow to ladder
down to yo worked on row 7, k2,
yo, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 12: P.
Rep rows 5–12 to form patt.
Cast off on WS.
 338 STITCH PATTERNS

COLORWORK PATTERNS
S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

SIMPLE FAIR ISLE BORDERS REPEATING FAIR ISLE CIRCLES

Instructions Instructions
Use the Fair Isle technique to Use the Fair Isle technique to work
work these border patterns. this repeating pattern. Choose four
Change the background and colors: two motif colors and two
motif colors as desired for each background colors.
band of the pattern.

20

37

10
30

20 Rep = 10sts
(x 22 ROWS)

INTARSIA HEART

Instructions
10 Use the intarsia technique to work this
heart. Choose four colors: three motif
colors and one background color.

1
17

10

Motif = 13sts wide

(x 14 rows tall)
 COLORWORK PATTERNS 339

FAIR ISLE BLOSSOMS INTARSIA BIRD

Instructions
Use the Fair Isle technique to work
this repeating pattern. Choose two
colors: one motif color and one
background color.

16

10

Instructions
Use the intarsia technique to work this bird.
Choose five colors: four motif colors and
one background color. Work a single motif
on the knitting or arrange motifs across the
1 knitting at random intervals or in regular
repeating positions.
Rep = 8sts wide
(x 8 rows tall) 30

THREE-COLOR FAIR ISLE ZIGZAGS

20
Instructions
Use the three-stranded Fair Isle
technique to work this repeating
pattern. Choose three colors: a
light, medium, and dark shade
work best.

10

Motif = 15sts wide

(x 27 rows tall)
Rep = 8sts
 340 STITCH PATTERNS

INTARSIA FLOWER INTARSIA NUMBERS AND LETTERS

S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions
Use the intarsia technique to work the
flowers in this repeating pattern and
the Fair Isle technique to work only the
background color. Choose four colors:
two motif colors for each flower and
one background color.
Instructions
Use the intarsia technique to work these
motifs and the Fair Isle technique to work
only the background color. Choose eight
colors: seven motif colors and one
background color.

26
20

20

10

10

Rep = 20sts (x 26 rows)

COMBINED TECHNIQUE FLOWER INTARSIA CAT

Instructions Instructions
Combine the intarsia and Fair Isle Use the intarsia technique to work this cat
techniques by using two-color Fair motif. Choose two colors: one motif color
Isle for the flower motif only and and one background color.
working the background around
the flower as intarsia.

20
20

10
10

1
1
Motif = 17sts wide (x 17 rows tall)
Motif = 20sts wide (x 17 rows tall)
 COLORWORK PATTERNS 341

INTARSIA TULIP INTARSIA LITTLE LADY

Instructions
Use the intarsia technique to work the
tulip motif and the background around
the tulip head in this pattern. When
working the stem, use the Fair Isle
technique to work only the background
color. Choose four colors: three motif
colors and one background color.

29

Instructions
20 Use the intarsia technique to work this
motif. Choose eight colors: seven motif
colors and one background color. Work
a single motif on the knitting or arrange
the motifs across the knitting at random
intervals or in regular repeating positions.

10 34

30

Motif = 11sts wide (x 25 rows tall)

20

FAIR ISLE HEARTS

Instructions
Use the Fair Isle technique to work this
repeating pattern. Choose two colors: one 10
color for the motif and another color for
the background.

12 1
10
Motif = 17sts wide
(x 30 rows tall)

Rep = 8sts
 342 STITCH PATTERNS

INTARSIA DUCK INTARSIA SKULL-AND-CROSSBONES

S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions
Use the intarsia technique to work this
duck motif. Choose four colors: three
motif colors and one background color.

19

10

Instructions
Use the intarsia method to work this motif.
Choose two colors: one color for the motif
1 and another for the background.

Motif = 15sts wide 33

(x 15 rows tall)
30

COMBINED TECHNIQUE ARGYLE 20

Instructions
Use the intarsia and Fair Isle methods
to work this pattern. Choose three colors:
one for the motif, one for the background,
and one for the stripe.
10

19

Motif = 20sts wide

10

1
Rep = 21sts
 COLORWORK PATTERNS 343

INTARSIA CLIMBING VINE INTARSIA SNOWFLAKE

Instructions Instructions
Use the intarsia method to work this Use the intarsia method to work
motif. Choose three colors: two for the this motif. Choose two colors:
motif and one for the background. one color for the motif and
another for the background.

19

Rep = 30 rows

10

1
Rep = 20sts

FAUX COLORWORK PATTERNS

PEEPING PURL BROKEN STRIPES

Instructions Instructions
Note: All sts to be slipped purlwise. Note: All sts to be slipped purlwise.
Using yarn A, cast on an odd number of sts. Using yarn A, cast on a multiple of 4sts
Row 1 (RS): Using yarn A, k. plus 2 extra sts.
Row 2: Using yarn A, p. Row 1 (RS): Using yarn A, k.
Rows 3 and 4: As rows 1 and 2. Row 2: Using yarn A, p.
Row 5: Using yarn B, k1, *s1 wyib, k1, rep Rows 3 and 4: As rows 1 and 2.
from * to end. Row 5: Using yarn B, k2, *s1, k3, rep from *
Row 6: Using yarn B, k1, *s1 wyif, k1, rep to end.
from * to end. Row 6: Using yarn B, p.
Row 7: As row 1. Row 7: Using yarn B, k.
Row 8: As row 2. Row 8: Using yarn B, p.
Rep last 2 rows once more. Row 9: Using yarn A, k4, *s1, k3, rep from *
Row 11: Using yarn B, s1 wyib, *k1, s1 wyib, to last 2sts, s1, k1.
rep from * to end. Rep rows 2–9 to form patt.
Row 12: Using yarn B, s1 wyif, *k1, s1 wyif,
rep from * to end.
Rep rows 2–9 to form patt.
 344 STITCH PATTERNS
ARROWHEAD
S T I T C H PAT T E R N S
Instructions
Special abbreviations
C3L: Place 1 st on the cable needle and
hold at the front of the work, k2, then k1
from the cable needle.
C3R: Place 2sts on the cable needle and
hold at the back of the work, k1, then k2
from the cable needle.
Note: All sts to be slipped purlwise.
Using yarn A, cast on a multiple of 7sts plus 1 extra st.
Row 1 (RS): Using yarn A, k.
Row 2: Using yarn A, p.
Rows 3: Using yarn B, *k1, s1, k4, s1, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: Using yarn B, p1, *s1, p4, s1, p1, rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 5: Using yarn B, *k1, s1, k4, s1, rep from * to end.
Row 6: As row 4.
Row 7: Using yarn B, *k1, C3L, C3R, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 8: Using yarn B, p.
Row 9: Using yarn A, *k1, s1, k4, s1, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 10: Using yarn A, p1, *s1, p4, s1, p1, rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 11: Using yarn A, *k1, s1, k4, s1, rep from * to end.
Row 12: Using yarn A, p1, *s1, p4, s1, p1, rep from * to end.
Row 13: Using yarn A, *k1, C3L, C3R, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 14: Using yarn A, p.
Rep rows 3–14 to form patt.
WEAVER’S STITCH
Instructions
Note: All sts to be slipped purlwise.
Using yarn A, cast on an even number of sts.
Row 1 (RS): Using yarn A, *k1, s1 wyif, rep
from * to end.
Row 2: Using yarn A, *p1, s1 wyib, rep from *
to end.
Row 3: Using yarn B, *k1, s1 wyif, rep from *
to end.
Row 4: Using yarn B, *p1, s1 wyib, rep from *
to end.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.
GARTER SLIP STITCH
Instructions
Note: All sts to be slipped purlwise.
Using yarn C, cast on a multiple of 4sts
plus 3 extra sts.
Row 1 (RS): Using yarn A, k1, *s1, k3, rep
from * to last 2sts, s1, k1.
Row 2: Using yarn A, k1, *s1 wyif, k3, rep
from * to last 2sts, s1 wyif, k1.
Row 3: Using yarn B, k3, *s1, k3, rep
from * to end.
Row 4: Using yarn B, k3, *s1 wyif, k3, rep from * to end.
Row 5: Using yarn C, k1, *s1, k3, rep from * to last 2sts, s1, k1.
Row 6: Using yarn C, k1, *s1 wyif, k3, rep from * to last 2sts, s1
wyif, k1.
Row 7: Using yarn A, k3, *s1, k3, rep from * to end.
Row 8: Using yarn A, k3, *s1 wyif, k3, rep from * to end.
Row 9: Using yarn B, k1, *s1, k3, rep from * to last 2sts, s1, k1.
Row 10: Using yarn B, k1, *s1 wyif, k3, rep from * to last 2sts, s1
wyif, k1.
Row 11: Using yarn C, k3, *s1, k3, rep from * to end.
Row 12: Using yarn C, k3, *s1 wyif, k3, rep from * to end.
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.
VERTICAL STRIPES
Instructions
Note: All sts to be slipped purlwise. Gauge
will be tighter as a result of the slipped
stitch columns, so it is advisable to cast
on three times as many stitches for the
width.Using yarn A, cast on a multiple of
4sts (minimum 12sts).
Row 1 (RS): Using yarn A, k.
Row 2: Using yarn A, p.
Row 3: Using yarn B, k3, s2, *k2, s2, rep
from * to last 3sts, k3.
Row 4: Using yarn B, p3, s2, *p2, s2, rep
from * to last 3sts, p3.
Row 5: Using yarn A, k1, s2, *k2, s2, rep
from * to last st, k1.
Row 6: Using yarn A, p1, s2 wyif, *p2, s2,
rep from * to last st, p1.
Rep rows 3–6 to form patt.
 EDGING PATTERNS 345

HONEYCOMB

Instructions Row 9: Using yarn C, *k2, s1, k1, rep from * to last st, k1.
Note: All sts to be slipped purlwise. Row 10: Using yarn C, p1, *p1, s1, p2, rep from * to last
Using yarn A, cast on a multiple of 4sts plus 1 extra st. st, k1.
Row 1 (RS): Using yarn A, k. Row 11: Using yarn C, *k2, s1, k1, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: Using yarn A, p. Row 12: Using yarn C, p1, *p1, s1, p2, rep from * to last
Rows 3: Using yarn B, *s1, k3, rep from * to last st, k1. st, k1.
Row 4: Using yarn B, p1, *p3, s1, rep from * to last st, k1. Row 13: Using yarn A, k.
Row 5: Using yarn B, *s1, k3, rep from * to last st, s1. Row 14: Using yarn A, p.
Row 6: Using yarn B, *s1, *p3, s1, rep from * to last st, k1. Rep rows 3–14 to form patt.
Row 7: Using yarn A, k.
Row 8: Using yarn A, p.

EDGING PATTERNS
PETAL EDGING

Instructions Row 12: Cast off 5sts loosely knitwise, k1,

Cast on 6sts. k2tog, yo, k2. (6sts)
Row 1 (RS): K. Rep rows 1–12 until edging is the desired
Row 2: Yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k2. (7sts) length, ending with a row 12.
Row 3: K. Cast off knitwise.
Row 4: Yo, k to last 4sts, k2tog, yo, k2. (8sts)
Rows 5–10: (Rep rows 3 and 4) three
times. (11sts)
Row 11: K.

PEAKS EDGING

Instructions Row 16: Yo, s1 k2tog psso, k2, k2tog, yo,

Cast on 6sts.
Row 1 and all odd-numbered (RS) rows: K.
Row 2: Yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k2. (7sts)
Row 4: Yo, k3, k2tog, yo, k2. (8sts)
Row 6: Yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k2. (9sts)
Row 8: Yo, k5, k2tog, yo, k2. (10sts)
Row 10: Yo, k6, k2tog, yo, k2. (11sts)
Row 12: Yo, s1 k2tog psso, k4, k2tog, yo,
k2. (10sts)
Row 14: Yo, s1 k2tog psso, k3, k2tog, yo,
k2. (9sts)
k2. (8sts)
Row 18: Yo, s1 k2tog psso, k1, k2tog, yo,
k2. (7sts)
Row 20: Yo, s1 k2tog psso, k2tog, yo, k2. (6sts)
Rep rows 1–20 until edging is the desired
length, ending with a row 20.
Cast off knitwise.
 346 STITCH PATTERNS

PICOT RUFFLE EDGING

S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions
Note: This edging is worked widthwise.
Cast on an odd number of sts.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: K.
Row 3: *K2tog, yo, rep from * to last st, k1.
Rows 4, 5 and 6: K.
Row 7: K1, *[k1, p1, k1] into next st, [k1, p1] into next st, rep
from *. (This row increases the number of stitches on the
needle by about two and a half times.)
Row 8: P.
Row 9: K.
Rows 10, 11, 12, and 13: [Rep rows 8 and 9] twice.
Row 14 (WS): P.
Rows 15 and 16: K.
Work picots along cast-off as follows:
Picot cast-off: *Cast on 2sts on left needle using knit-on
cast-on method, cast off 5sts knitwise, transfer st on right
needle back to left needle, rep from *, ending last cast-off
as required by sts remaining.

CHRISTENING EDGING

Instructions
Cast on 7sts.
Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k2tog, yo twice, k2tog, k1. (8sts)
Row 2: K3, p1, k2, yo, k2tog.
Row 3: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, yo twice, k2tog, k1. (9sts)
Row 4: K3, p1, k3, yo, k2tog.
Row 5: K2, yo, k2tog, k2, yo twice, k2tog, k1. (10sts)
Row 6: K3, p1, k4, yo, k2tog.
Row 7: K2, yo, k2tog, k6.
Row 8: Cast off 3sts knitwise, k4, yo, k2tog. (7sts)
Rep rows 1–8 until edging is desired length, ending with a row 8.
Cast off knitwise.

PICOT EDGING

Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 2sts plus 1 extra st.
Work in st st to the point of turning, finishing with a WS row
(minimum 6 rows st st worked).
Picot row (RS): *K2tog, yo, rep from * to last st, k1.
Starting with a p row, work 5 rows st st and cast off. Fold
work along picot row and catch to back of work using the
whip stitch technique (see p.215).
 EDGING PATTERNS 347

ARCHWAY EDGING

Instructions
All stitches are cast on using the Backward loop cast-on
method (see p.91).
Cast on a multiple of 6sts plus 2 extra sts.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: *K1, cast off 3sts, rep from * to end.
Row 3: K1, *cast on one st, k2, rep from * to last st, cast on
one st, k1.
Rows 4, 5, and 6: K.

FRINGE EDGING GODMOTHER’S EDGING

Instructions
Note: When making this edging, hold 2 strands of yarn together
throughout and knit tightly. You can alter the length of the fringe
by adding to or subtracting from the number of knit stitches at the
end of row 1 and adjusting the purl stitches at the beg of row 2 by
same number.
Cast on 12sts.
Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k2tog, k8.
Row 2: P7, k2, yo, k2tog, k1.
Rep rows 1 and 2 until edging is the desired length, ending with
a row 2.
Cast off (RS): Cast off the first 5sts knitwise, cut the yarn and draw
it through the loop on the right needle to fasten off, then drop the
rem 6sts off the left needle and unravel them to form the fringe.
Smooth out the unraveled strands, and, if necessary, lightly steam
to straighten the strands. Then cut through the loops at the end of
the fringe. Knot the strands together in groups of four strands,
positioning the knots close to the edge of the knitting. Trim the
fringe ends slightly, if necessary, to make them even.
Instructions
Note: Slip the first st of even-numbered rows purlwise, then take
the yarn to the back of the work between two needles ready to k
the next st.
Cast on 15sts.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: S1, k2, [yo, k2tog] five times, yo, k2. (16sts)
Row 3 and all odd-numbered (RS) rows: K.
Row 4: S1, k5, [yo, k2tog] four times, yo, k2. (17sts)
Row 6: S1, k8, [yo, k2tog] three times, yo, k2. (18sts)
Row 8: S1, k11, [yo, k2tog] twice, yo, k2. (19sts)
Row 10: S1, k18.
Rows 11: Cast off 4sts knitwise, k to end. (15sts)
Rep rows 2–11 until edging is the desired length, ending with
a row 11.
Cast off knitwise.
 348 STITCH PATTERNS

BEADED EDGING
S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions
Prethread the beads and push them down the yarn until you
are instructed to use them.
Cast on 6sts.
Rows 1 and 2 (RS): K.
Row 3: Push 10 beads up the working yarn and press against
the first presenting stitch on the left needle, k1 tbl, k to end as
normal, leaving the bead loop in place.
Rows 4, 5 and 6: K.
Rep rows 1–6 to form patt.

OPEN WEAVE EDGING

Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 6sts plus one extra st.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: P.
Row 3: *[K1, p1, k1, p1, k1] into next st, k5tog, rep from * to end.
Row 4: P.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.

CABLED EDGING

Instructions
Special abbreviation
C8B: Place 2sts on the cable needle and leave at the back of the
work, k2, then k2 from the cable needle.

Cast on 12sts.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: K2, p8, k2.
Rep last 2 rows twice more.
Row 7: K2, C8B, k2.
Row 8: K2, p8, k2.
Row 9: K.
Rep last 2 rows twice more, then row 8 again.
Rep rows 1–14 to set patt.

MEDALLIONS
SIMPLE CIRCLE
Instructions
Cast on 8sts on one needle. Then distribute 2sts on
each of four double-pointed needles and knit with
a 5th double-pointed needle as foll:
Round 1: [K1 tbl] twice on each of four needles.
Round 2: [Kfb in each st] on each of four needles.
(16sts)
Rounds 3, 4, and 5: K.
Round 6: [Kfb in each st] on each of four needles.
(32sts)
Rounds 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11: K.
Round 12: Rep round 6. 64sts.
Rounds 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19: K.
Round 20: [Kfb into every 2nd st] on each of four
needles. (96sts)
SIMPLE SQUARE SQUARE WITH SWIRL INCREASES
Instructions
Cast on 8sts on one needle. Then
distribute 2sts on each of four
double-pointed needles and knit
with a 5th double-pointed needle
as foll:
Round 1: [K1 tbl] twice on each
of four needles.
Round 2: [Kfb in each st] on each
of four needles. (16sts)
Round 3: K.
Round 4: [K, working kfb in first
and last st] on each of four
needles. (24sts)
Rep rounds 3 and 4 (increasing
8sts in every alt round) until
square is desired size.
Cast off knitwise.
MEDALLIONS 349
Rounds 21, 22, 23, 24, and 25: K.
Round 26: [Kfb into every 3rd st] on each of four
needles. (128sts)
Rounds 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31: K.
Round 32: [Kfb into every 4th st] on each of four
needles. (160sts)
Cont in this way, increasing 32 stitches in every
6th round and working the next increase round with
kfb into every 5th stitch, the following into every 6th
stitch, and so on, until the circle is the desired size.
Cast off knitwise.
Instructions
Cast on 8sts on one needle. Then
distribute 2sts on each of four
double-pointed needles, and knit
with a 5th double-pointed needle
as foll:
Row 1: [K1 tbl] twice on each of
four needles.
Row 2: [K, working yo before first
st] on each of four needles. (12sts)
Rep round 2 (increasing 4sts in
every round) until square is
desired size.
Cast off knitwise.
 350 STITCH PATTERNS

HEXAGON
S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions Round 5: K.
Cast on 12sts on one needle. Then distribute 4sts Round 6: [Yo, k half of rem sts on needle, yo, k to
on each of three double-pointed needles and knit end of needle] on each of three needles. (30sts)
with a fourth double-pointed needle as foll: Rep rounds 5 and 6 (increasing 6sts in every alt
Round 1: [K1 tbl] four times on each of three round) until the hexagon is the desired size.
needles. Cast off knitwise.
Round 2: [Yo, k2, yo, k2] on each of three needles.
(18sts)
Round 3: K.
Round 4: [Yo, k3, yo, k3] on each of three needles.
(24sts)

SIMPLE OCTAGON

Instructions Round 8: [K3, kfb, k3, kfb] on each of four needles.

Cast on 8sts on one needle. Then distribute 2sts on (40sts)
each of four double-pointed needles and knit with Round 10: [K4, kfb, k4, kfb] on each of four needles.
a 5th double-pointed needle as foll: (48sts)
Round 1: [K1 tbl] twice on each of four needles. Round 12: [K5, kfb, k5, kfb] on each of four needles.
Round 2: [Kfb in each st] on each of four needles. (56sts)
(16sts) Cont in this way (increasing 8sts in every alt round)
Round 3 and all odd-numbered rounds: K. until the octagon is the desired size.
Round 4: [K1, kfb, k1, kfb] on each of four needles. Cast off knitwise.
(24sts)
Round 6: [K2, kfb, k2, kfb] on each of four needles.
(32sts)

MITERED SQUARE

Instructions
Cast on 55sts.
Row 1 (RS): K26, s2k, k1, p2sso, k to end. (53sts)
Row 2 and all foll alt rows: K.
Row 3: K25, s2k, k1, p2sso, k to end. (51sts)
Row 5: K24, s2k, k1, p2sso, k to end. (49sts)
Continue working RS row decrease at the center of the
row as set, knitting one stitch fewer before decreasing
on each row (i.e., row 6: k23, row 5: k22) until 3sts
remain, ending with a WS row.
Next row: S2 k1 p2sso (one st). Draw the yarn through
the remaining stitch to fasten off.
 BEADING STITCH PATTERNS 351

SQUARE WITH OPENWORK

Instructions Round 6: [Yo, k to last st, yo, k1] on each of four

Cast on 8sts on one needle. Then distribute 2sts on needles. (32sts)
each of four double-pointed needles and knit with Rep rounds 5 and 6 (increasing 8sts in every alt round)
a 5th double-pointed needle as foll: until the square is the desired size.
Round 1: [K1 tbl] twice on each of four needles. Cast off knitwise.
Round 2: [Yo, k1, yo, k1] on each of four needles.
(16sts)
Round 3: K.
Round 4: [Yo, k3, yo, k1] on each of four needles.
(24sts)
Round 5: K.

BEADING STITCH PATTERNS

SUBTLE SPARKLES

Instructions Row 6: P.
Special abbreviation Row 7: K1, *k3, pb, k2, rep from * to last st, k1.
pb: Place bead. Row 8: P.
Cast on a multiple of 6sts plus 2 extra sts. Rep rows 1–8 to form patt.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: P.
Row 3: K1, *pb, k5, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: P.
Row 5: K.

DIAGONAL BEADING BEADED STOCKINETTE

Instructions Instructions
Special abbreviation Special abbreviation
pb: Place bead. pb: Place bead.
Cast on a multiple of 5sts plus 2 Cast on an odd number of sts.
extra sts. Row 1: K1, *pb, k1, rep from * to end.
Row 1: K1, *k2, pb, k2, rep from * to Row 2: P.
last st, k1. Row 3: K1, pb, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P. Row 4: P.
Row 3: K1, *k1, pb, k3, rep from * to Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.
last st, k1.
Row 5: K1, *pb, k4, rep from * to last
st, k1.
Row 7: K1, *k4, pb, rep from * to last
st, k1.
Row 9: K1, *k3, pb, k1, rep from * to
last st, k1.
Row 10: P.
Rep rows 1–10 to form patt.
 352 STITCH PATTERNS

BEADED CHEVRON
S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

Instructions
Special abbreviation
pb: Place bead.
Cast on a multiple of 10sts plus one extra st.
Starting with a k row, work 2 rows st st.
Row 1 (RS): K1, *pb, k1, rep from * to end.
Row 2 and all foll alt rows (WS): *P1, M1p, p3, s1,
p2tog, psso, p3, M1, rep from * to last st, p1.
Rows 3 and 5: As row 1.
Rows 7, 9, and 11: K.
Row 12: As row 2.
Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.

BEADED CHECKERBOARD

Instructions Row 9: K7, *[pb, k1] twice, k6, rep from * to end.
Special abbreviation Row 11: As row 7.
pb: Place bead. Rep rows 1–12 to form patt.
Cast on a multiple of 10sts plus 7 extra sts.
Row 1 (RS): K1, *[pb, k1] three times, k4, rep from * to
last 6sts, [pb, k1] three times.
Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P.
Rows 3: K2, *[pb, k1] twice, k6, rep from * to last 5sts,
[pb, k1] twice, k1.
Row 5: As row 1.
Row 7: K6, *[pb, k1] three times, k4, rep from * to last
5sts, k to end.

DIAMANTÉ BEADED GARTER

Instructions Instructions
Special abbreviation Special abbreviation
pb: Place bead. pb: Place bead.
Cast on a multiple of 8sts plus 2 Cast on an odd number of sts.
extra sts. Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 1 (RS): K1, *k1, pb, k3, pb, k2, Row 2 and all foll alt rows: K.
rep from * to last st, k1. Rows 3: K1, *pb, k1, rep from
Row 3: K1, *k4, pb, k1, pb, k1, rep * to end.
from * to last st, k1. Rows 5 and 6: K.
Row 5: K1, *k1, pb, k3, pb, k2, rep Rep rows 1–6 to form patt.
from * to last st, k1.
Row 7: K1, *pb, k1, pb, k5, rep from
* to last st, k1.
Row 8: P.
Rep rows 1– 8 to form patt.
 BEADING STITCH PATTERNS 353

PEEKABOO BEADS BEADED STRIPES

Instructions Instructions
Special abbreviation Special abbreviation
pb: Place bead. pb: Place bead.
Cast on a multiple of 10sts plus Cast on an odd number of sts.
5 extra sts. Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 1 (RS): K. Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P.
Row 2: P1, *k3, p7, rep from * to Row 3: K1, *pb, rep from * to last
last 4sts, k3, p1. st, k1.
Row 3: K2, *pb, k9, rep from * to Row 5: K2, *pb, k1, rep from * to
last 2sts, k2. last st, k1.
Row 4: P. Row 7: K.
Row 5: K. Row 8: P.
Row 6: P6, *k3, p7, rep from * to Rep rows 1–8 to form patt.
last 9sts, k3, p to end.
Row 7: K7, *pb, k9, rep from * to
last 8sts, pb, k7.
Row 8: P.
Rep rows 1–8 to form patt.

VERTICAL SEQUIN STRIPES ALL-OVER SEQUINS

Instructions Instructions
Special abbreviation Special abbreviation
pb: Place bead—sequin. pb: Place bead—sequin.
Cast on a multiple of 8sts plus 1 Cast on an odd number of sts.
extra st. Row 1: K1, *pb, k1, rep from *
Row 1: K1, *k2, pb, k1, pb, k3, rep to end.
from * to end. Row 2: P.
Row 2: P. Row 3: *K1, pb, rep from * to last
Rep rows 1 and 2 to form patt. st, k1.
Row 4: P.
Rep rows 1–4 to form patt.
 354 STITCH PATTERNS

TOY PATTERN: KNITTED MONKEY

(See pp.238–243)
S T I T C H PAT T E R N S

BODY AND HEAD Row 13 (RS): K2, [k2tog, k3] 3 times, k2tog, k2. 17sts.
The body and head are worked in one piece, starting at the lower end Row 14: P.
of the body. Cut off A.
Using a stripe color (B, C, D, or E), cast on 20sts, leaving a long loose Cont in st st in random stripes (of B, C, D, and E) throughout as follows:
end for back seam. Work 10 rows without shaping, ending with RS facing for next row.
Row 1 (RS): [Kfb, k1] 10 times. 30sts. Next row (RS): K4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k3. 15sts.
Row 2: P. Work 15 rows without shaping.
Row 3: K1, [M1, K3] 9 times, M1, k2. 40sts. Next row (RS): K3, [k2tog, k2] twice, k2tog, k2. 12sts.**
Row 4: P. Work 11 rows without shaping.
Row 5: K2, [M1, K4] 9 times, M1, k2. 50sts. Cast off knitwise.
Cont in st st in random stripes for 13 rows more, ending with RS facing
for next row. ARMS (MAKE 2)
Cont in st st in random stripes (of B, C, D, and E) throughout as foll: Each arm is started at the foot end.
Next row (RS): K6, [k2tog, k10] 3 times, k2tog, k6. 46sts. Work as for leg to **.
P 1 row. Work 7 row without shaping.
Next row: K1, [k2tog, k4] 7 times, k2tog, k1. 38sts. Cast off 2sts at beg of next 4 rows.
P 1 row. Cast off rem 4sts, leaving a long loose end for sewing arm to body.
Next row: K3, [k2tog, k8] 3 times, k2tog, k3. 34sts.
P 1 row. MUZZLE
Next row: K4, [k2tog, k3] 6 times. 28sts. Using a stripe color (B, C, D, or E), cast on 6sts, using single cast-on
Work 9 rows without shaping, ending with RS facing for next row. method (see p. 91) and leaving a long loose end.
Shape shoulders Row 1 (RS): [Kfb] 5 times, K1. 11sts.
Next row (RS): K6, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k6. 26sts. Row 2: P.
P 1 row. Row 3: K1, [M1, K1] 10 times. 21sts.
Next row: K5, s1 k2tog psso, k10, s1 k2tog psso, k5. 22sts. Row 4: P.
P 1 row. Cut off the first stripe color and change to a second stripe color for
Next row: K4, s1 k2tog psso, k8, s1 k2tog psso, k4. 18sts. the remainder of the muzzle.
P 1 row. Row 5: K1, [M1, K2] 10 times. 31sts.
Head Beg with a p row, work 5 rows in st st.
Next row (RS): K2, [kfb, k1] 8 times. 26sts. Cast off knitwise, leaving a long loose end for sewing muzzle to body.
P 1 row.
Next row: K2, [M1, K3] 8 times. 34sts. EARS (MAKE 2)
P 1 row. Using F (ear and tail color), cast on 3 sts.
Next row: K4, [M1, k5] 6 times. 40sts. Row 1 (WS): [Kfb] twice, k1. 5sts.
Work 17 rows without shaping, ending with RS facing for next row. Note: Work the remaining increases as yarn overs, ensuring that each
Next row: K2 [k2tog, k3] 7 times, k2tog, k1. 32sts. yarn over is crossed when it is knit in the following row to close the
P1 row. hole by knitting it through the back of the loop.
Next row: K1, [k2tog, k2] 7 times, k2tog, k1. 24sts. Row 2 (RS): [K1, yo] 4 times, k1. 9sts.
P 1 row. Row 3: K to end, knitting each yo through back loop.
Next row: [K2tog, k1] 8 times. 16sts. Row 4: [K2, yo] 4 times, k1. 13sts.
P 1 row. Row 5: Rep row 3.
Next row: [K2tog] 8 times. 8sts. Row 6: K.
Next row: [P2tog] 4 times. 4sts. K 2 rows.
Cut off the yarn, leaving a long loose end. Thread the end onto a Cast off loosely knitwise, leaving a long loose end for gathering the ear
blunt-ended yarn needle and pass the needle through 4 remaining sts into a cupped shape and sewing to the head.
as they are dropped from the needle. Pull the yarn to gather the
stitches and secure with a few stitches. TAIL
Using F (ear and tail color), cast on 3sts, leaving a long loose end for
LEGS (MAKE 2) sewing tail to body.
Each leg is started at the foot end. Work in garter stitch (k every row) until the tail is a little longer than
Using A (foot and hand color), cast on 6sts using the single cast-on the leg (or the desired length).
method (see p. 91) and leaving a long loose end. Next row s1 k2tog psso, then fasten off.
Row 1 (RS): [Kfb] 5 times, k1. 11sts. Tail will swirl naturally—do not press out this swirl.
Row 2: P.
Row 3: K1, [M1, k1] 10 times. 21sts. FINISHING
Beg with a P row, work 9 rows in st st, ending with RS facing for Finish as explained on pages 238–239.
next row.
 MAGMA FELTED PILLOW CHART 355

MAGMA FELTED PILLOW CHART (See pp.314–315)

120 KEY
Yarn A
Yarn B

110

100

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10
 356
GLOSSARY
Aran yarn
G LOSSARY
Also called medium, 12-ply, worsted, or Afghan
(yarn symbol 4). Suitable for sweaters, cabled
menswear, blankets, hats, scarves, and mittens.
Backstitch
A sewing stitch used for firm, straight seams
that is worked from the wrong side.
Ballband
The wrapper around a ball of yarn that usually
details fiber content, weight, length, needle
size, gauge, and cleaning instructions.
Ball-winder
A device for winding hanks of yarn into balls;
also to wind two or more strands together to
make a double-stranded yarn. Often used in
conjunction with a swift.
Bias knitting
The process of knitting from one corner to
another, which creates a fabric on the diagonal.
Blocking
The finishing process for a piece of knitting, in
which it is set in shape using water or steam.
Blocking wire
Wire used to stretch a piece of lace knitting
during blocking to define the pattern better.
Bulky yarn
Also called super bulky, roving, or 16-ply and
upward (yarn symbol 6). A bulky yarn suitable
for heavy blankets, rugs, and thick scarves.
Chunky yarn
Also called super chunky, craft, rug, or 14-ply
(yarn symbol 5). Suitable for rugs, jackets,
blankets, leg warmers, and winter accessories.
Cable
A design made by crossing one or more
stitches over other stitches in a row; it
frequently resembles a rope or cable. Twist
stitches belong to the same family.
Cable cast-on
A method of casting on that produces a firm,
cordlike edge that is not very stretchy.
Cable needle
A needle with a kink or U-shape, used when
working cables.
Carrying up the side
A method for keeping the edges of a two-
colored, even-row stripe pattern tidy. The yarns
are twisted around each other and carried up
the side of the piece.
Casting off/binding off
Completing a piece by finishing off the loops
of the stitches so that they cannot unravel.
Casting on
Forming an initial number of stitches on a
needle at the start of a piece of knitting. There
are various methods, depending on the effect
you want to achieve.
Circular knitting
Working on circular needles or double-pointed
needles to produce a seamless item such
as a hat. The work is not turned and has no
wrong-side row. See also Tubular knitting.
Circular needles
A pair of short needles connected by a
flexible tube, usually used for circular
knitting and very wide projects that do
not fit on straight needles.
Colorwork
Any method of incorporating color into
your knitting. This includes stripes, Fair Isle,
intarsia, and slipped stitch patterns.
Continental-style knitting
A way of holding the yarn as you knit, lacing it
around your left hand and using these fingers
to position the yarn to make a stitch.
Darning in ends
The process of completing a piece of knitting
by weaving yarn ends (such as from the
cast-on and cast-off edges) into the knitting
to disguise them.
Decreases/decreasing
Techniques that subtract stitches. Used to
shape knitting, and to form textures in
combination with other stitches.
Double cast-on
See Two-strand cast-on.
Double-knit yarn (DK)
A medium-weight yarn. Also called DK, light
worsted, or 6-ply (yarn symbol 3). Suitable for
sweaters, light scarves, blankets, and toys.
Double-pointed needles
Knitting needles with a tip at each end; a set of
four or five is used for the circular knitting of
small items, such as mittens and socks.
Double knitting or double-sided knitting
Also known as tubular knitting. It is worked on
straight needles by slipping every other stitch
and produces a double-sided fabric. See
also Circular knitting.
English-style knitting
A way of holding the yarn as you knit, lacing it
around your right hand and using the right
index finger to wrap the yarn around the needle.
Fair Isle
Various multicolored, stranded, geometric
patterns originating from Fair Isle and latterly
the Shetland Islands.
Fair Isle knitting
A method in which yarn colors not being
worked are carried across the back of the work
until required. This unworked yarn can also be
woven in.
Faux colorwork
Adding yarn in another color without having
to knit with two different yarns in each row.
It involves manipulating stitches from
previous rows.
Fibers
Yarn is made up of fibers, such as the hair
from an animal, man-made (synthetic) fibers,
or fibers derived from a plant. The fibers are
processed and spun into a yarn.
Fine yarn
Also called sport, baby, or 4-ply (yarn symbol
2). A fine yarn suitable for lightweight sweaters,
baby clothes, socks, and accessories.
Fisherman’s rib
A pattern of knit and purl stitches, in which
alternating stitches are double knitted, making
a thick, warm, textured fabric.
Fully fashioned shaping
An attractive method for increasing or
decreasing when working stockinette stitch,
in which a line of stitches is preserved to follow
the edge of the piece.
Garter stitch
Working in knit stitches on every row,
whichever side of the knitting is facing you. It
produces a thick fabric, which is identical on
both sides and will not curl at the edges.
Gauge swatch
The required number of stitches and rows for a
test square of knitting, usually 4in (10cm) square.
The gauge stated in a pattern must be achieved,
or the finished piece will not be the right size.
Hank
A twisted ring of yarn, which needs to be wound
into one or more balls before it can be used.
I-cord
A narrow tube of knitting, created on a knitting
dolly or cord-maker, or on double-pointed
needles. Used as cords, ties, or as a trimming.
Increases/increasing
Techniques that add stitches so there are more
than the number originally cast on. Can be
combined with other stitches to form shapes
and textures.
Intarsia
A method for working with different colored
yarns to create blocks of color. A separate
piece of yarn is used for each color and twisted
where the color changes to prevent a hole;
yarns are not stranded across the reverse of
the work. Uses less yarn than Fair Isle knitting.
Knit-on cast-on
This cast-on uses two needles to combine a
cast-on with the knitting of the first row. If
worked through the front of the loops, it
produces a soft edge; if through the back
of the loops, the edge is firmer.
Knit stitch
One of the basic stitches used to form knitting.

Knitting beads
Beads with a central hole in various sizes for
specific thicknesses of yarn. Most are washable
and colorfast.
Knitting needle gauge
A tool for identifying needle size by pushing it
through holes.
Knitting through back loop
The process of twisting the stitch in the row
below so the legs of the stitch cross at the base.
Knitwise
Working with knit stitches facing you, inserting
the right-hand needle into a stitch as if to knit it.
Lace cast-on
A cast-on that produces a looser, more open
effect than other cast-ons, and is particularly
suitable for lacy designs.
Lace yarn
Also called fingering or 3-ply (yarn symbol 0). A
very fine yarn for knitting lace.
Lanolin
An oily substance contained in a sheep’s wool.
Live stitches
Stitches that are currently being worked.
Long-tail cast-on
See Two-strand cast-on.
Mattress stitch
A seaming stitch, which is almost invisible, used
to sew pieces of knitting together. It only forms
a small seam on the wrong side of the work.
Medallion
A circular, hexagonal, octagonal, or square flat
shape made of knitting that is knitted from the
center outward.
Mercerized cotton
Cotton thread, fabric, or yarn that has been
treated in order to strengthen it and add a
sheen. It is a good choice for items that need to
be strong and hold a shape, such as a bag.
Organic wool
Wool produced from sheep that graze on land
that is not treated with herbicides, pesticides,
or artificial fertilizers. The wool is not given any
chemical treatments.
Pilling
When the surface of a knitted item rubs up
into tiny balls, due to wear and friction.
Plied yarn
A yarn made from more than one strand of
spun fiber, so 4-ply is four strands plied
together. Most knitting yarns are plied, since
plying prevents the yarn from twisting, and
thus keeps the fabric from slanting diagonally.
Pom-pom
A small fluffy ball made of yarn, used as a
trimming or decoration.
Purl stitch
One of the two basic stitches used in knitting.
Purlwise
Working with stitches facing you, inserting the
right-hand needle into a stitch as if to purl it.
Ribbing/rib/rib stitch
Knitting with great elasticity, used where fabric
needs to hold tightly to the body, but is capable
of expanding. Single ribbing or 1 x 1 rib is knit
1, purl 1; 2 x 2 rib is knit 2, purl 2; 3 x 3 rib is
knit 3, purl 3 etc.
Short-row shaping
Used for shaping shoulders, curving hems,
making darts, and turning sock heels. Rows
are added in only one part of the fabric by
knitting part of a row. It uses one of three
turning methods to close holes.
Single rib/ribbing
See ribbing.
Single-strand cast-on
A group of methods for casting on using
one strand of yarn. Tends to produce a
soft edge, but this can be made firmer by
twisting the stitches.
Skein
Yarn sold wound into a long oblong shape
that is ready to knit.
Slip knot
A knot that you form when you place the
first loop on the needle as you start casting
on stitches.
Slip stitch
Sliding a stitch from the left-hand needle to
the right-hand needle without working it. The
usual method is to slip stitches purlwise; less
frequently, stitches are slipped knitwise.
Slipped stitches at the beginning of each
row—slipped selvage—can help to create a
very neat edge.
Sock blocker
A flat plastic or wooden shape that is inserted
into a finished sock and used to mold it to
shape in conjunction with moisture.
Sock stoppers
Plastic caps used to stop stitches from falling
off double-pointed needles.
Stockinette stitch
A stitch formed by knitting all stitches when
the right side of the work is facing you, and
purling all stitches when the wrong side of
the work is facing you.
Stranded beading method
A process for streamlining the knitting-in of
beads by threading them on yarn before you
begin, using a needle and thread looped
through the yarn. Beads are later arranged in
the knitting when brought to the front of the
work and wrapped around a slipped stitch.
Superfine yarn
Also called fingering, baby, or 3-ply (yarn
symbol 1). A very fine yarn suitable for
fine-knit socks, shawls, and baby clothes.
GLOSSARY 357
Swift
A wooden frame used with a ball-winder
to transform a hank or skein of yarn into
convenient balls.
Tape yarn
A wide, flat, or tubular yarn, flattened when
wound into a ball. Can be knitted to produce
a nubbly or smooth result.
Three-needle cast-off/bind-off
A method of casting off which creates a firm,
neat seam, with a smooth finish on the right
side of the work. It is a good way of finishing the
toe of a sock or the fingertip area of a mitten.
Tubular cast-on/cast-off
Also known as an invisible cast-on/off.
Produces a good edge for a single rib; best to
use needles that are at least two sizes smaller
than the main fabric in order to prevent the
ribbing stretching out of shape.
Tubular knitting
See Double knitting.
Tunisian knitting
A style of knitting where the finished fabric
resembles crocheted work.
Twist
Two stitches twisted together to form a narrow
cable, which slants to the right or left. A cable
needle is not used.
Two-strand cast-on
A group of methods for casting on, including
Double cast-on and Long-tail cast-on, that
uses two strands of yarn. These tend to
produce a strong, elastic edge.
Whip stitch
A stitch used to seam two pieces of knitting by
placing them right sides together and then
sewing through the edge stitches. Also called
oversewing or overcasting.
Worsted yarn
Also called aran, Afghan, medium, or 12-ply
(yarn symbol 4). Suitable for sweaters, cabled
menswear, blankets, hats, scarves, and mittens.
Yarn
Fibers that have been spun into a long strand
suitable for knitting. Yarns may be made of
natural fibers, man-made fibers, a blend of the
two, or even non-standard materials.
Yarn bobbins
Small plastic shapes for holding yarn when
doing intarsia work, where there are many
yarns in different colors.
Yarn over (yo)
An instruction to increase by adding stitches
and creating holes at the same time. Yarn overs
(yos) are used for decorative purposes, such as
producing lacy knitting. Various situations for
yarn overs include: yarn over between knit
stitches; yarn over between purl stitches; yarn
over between knit and purl stitches; and yarn
over at the beginning of a row.
 358 INDEX
INDEX
A reverse stitch beading 221
abbreviations 125
INDEX
accessories
knitting patterns 126
yarn weights 32
acrylic yarns 18
Afghan yarns 32
all-over sequins 85, 353
alpaca 13
altering patterns 127
alternating loop cast-on 94
anemone 60, 325
angora yarns 14
Aran yarns 32, 33
archway edging 80, 347
Argyle, combined technique 75, 342
arm knitting 252–61
adding more yarn 260
arm-knitted rug 316–17
casting off 258
casting on 252–53
chain plying 261
decreases 257
finishing 259
increases 256
picking up stitches 261
stitches 254–55
armwarmers, cabled 270–71
arrowhead lace pattern 66, 333
arrowhead stitch 77, 344
attached I-cord 149
B detached bobbles 225
baby alpaca yarn 13
baby patterns
baby blanket 292–93
cute hooded baby jacket 288–91
yarn weights 32
baby yarns 32
back of loop, knitting through 125
backstitch seam 215
backward knitting 194
bags
garment bags 49
handles 35
knitting and needle bags 43
plarn knitting 249–51
ball, short row 184
ball-winders 46
balls of yarn 28, 29
winding a hank into a ball 118
bamboo yarns 17
basketweave, entrelac 174–75
basketweave stitch 53, 320
bead knitting 220–24
all-over sequins 85, 353
beaded cast-off 224
beaded cast-on 223
beaded checkerboard 84, 352
beaded chevron 84, 352
beaded edging 80, 348
beaded garter stitch 85, 352
beaded loops and clusters 222
beaded stockinette stitch 83, 351
beaded stripes 84, 353
close beading 222
diagonal beading 83, 351
diamanté stitch 84, 352
insetting beads with a hook 221
peekaboo beads 85, 353
simple garter-stitch beading 221 C long-tail cast-on for arm knitting
253
cable needles 45
slip-stitch beading 220 pinhole 105
stitch patterns 351–53 cables 146, 147 provisional 101
subtle sparkles 83, 351 armwarmers 270–71 roll-edge tubular 103
threading beads onto yarn 220 bobble cable 63, 330 simple cast-on for arm knitting
tubular pockets for large beads 223 braided cable 62, 328 252–53
using a second yarn 222 cable and twist stitch patterns single-strand 91
vertical sequin stripes 85, 353 61–64, 326–31 special cast-ons 100–105
beads 34 cable cast-on 93 tubular 102
stitch and row markers 124 cable check 64, 330 twice-knitted 103
bells, embossing 227 cable-effect stitch 62, 331 twisted double 97
bias knitting 178 cable 4 back 147 two needle 98
big leaf lace 67, 334 cable 4 front 147 two-strand 95–99
bio-synthetic fibers 16–17 chain cable stitch 61, 327 two-strand double 99
birds, intarsia motifs 72, 74, 339, 342 diamond cable 63, 328 cat motif, intarsia 73, 340
blackberry stitch 58, 323 edging 80, 348 cedarwood shapes 49
blankets fan cable 64, 331 chain, picot point 170
baby blanket 292–93 four-stitch cable pattern 61, 326 chain cable stitch 61, 327
checkered blanket 306–307 garter stitch cable 63, 329 chain eyelet 152
color-block blanket 310–13 garter zigzag twist 62, 329 chain plying 261
yarn weights 32 horseshoe cable 62, 327 chain selvage 199
blended yarns 10 six-stitch cable pattern 61, 327 chain stitch on stripes 232
blockers, sock 45 smocking 63, 328 charts
blocking 213 textured women’s shrug 272–75 chart paper 45
blocking wire and pins 44 two-color cables 164 colorwork 158
blunt-ended yarn needles 44 wavy cable pattern 64, 331 Fair Isle 158
bobbins, yarn 47 woven cable 64, 330 intarsia 158
bobble hat, child’s Fair Isle 298–99 cardigans stitch symbols 125
bobble removers 48 cute hooded baby jacket 288–91 Swiss darning 229
bobbles 224–28 women’s cardigan 278–81 check stitch
bobble cable 63, 330 cashmere 14 little check stitch 54, 321
bobble stitch 58, 324 cast-off horizontal buttonholes 204 striped check stitch 53, 320
drawthread bobbles 236
cast-offs 106–13
alternative 107–13
textured check stitch 53, 320
checkerboard, beaded 84, 352
I-cord bobble 150 arm knitting 258 checks
popcorns 224 beaded 224 cable check 64, 330
tulip cluster bobble 226 crochet 108 checkered blanket 306–307
borders, colorwork 71 crochet chain loop 113 checked pillow 304–305
bouclé yarn 23 decrease 110 slip-stitch pattern 157
boxes, knitted string 250–51 edging 112 chenille yarn 20
braided cable 62, 328 I-cord 150 chevrons
braided yarn 21 knitwise 106 basic chevron 57, 323
bridges, cutting into knitting 218 picot point 109 beaded chevron 84, 352
bright colors 31 purl 106 garter chevron 57, 323
brioche stitch 165 rib effect 107 child’s Fair Isle bobble hat 298–99
broken moss stitch 56, 322 simple 106 child’s owl toy 294–97
broken rib 55, 322 smooth diagonal 113 christening edging 78, 346
broken stripes stitch 76, 343 suspended 108 chunky pillow 308–309
brooches, felted flowers 246 three-needle 108 chunky yarns 32, 33
brushes, mohair 48 tubular 111 circles
bulky yarns 32, 33 two-row 110 circular medallions 182
bullion stitch, embroidery 231 very stretchy single rib 112 repeating Fair Isle circles 71, 338
button loops 201 cast-on/off edge, picking up stitches simple circle 81, 349
I-cord button loops 149 196 circular knitting 186–93
knitted button loops 201 cast-ons 91–105 helix knitting 190
buttonhole stitch 201 alternating loop 94 joining the circle of stitches 186
buttonholes 201–207 beaded 223 knitting two tubular items at once
cast-off horizontal buttonholes 204 cable 93 188–89
diagonal buttonholes 207 combined two strand 99 “magic loop” knitting 188
increased horizontal buttonholes contrast edge 96 medallions 193
205 crochet provisional 102 Möbius loops 187
one row horizontal buttonholes 203 double 95 needles 186
positioning 201 double twist loop 94 spiral knitting 192
reinforced eyelet buttonholes 202 edging 104 with double-pointed needles 191
vertical buttonholes 206 finger loop 93 circular needles 40–41
buttons 35 frilly 104 climbing vine 75, 343
covered buttons 237 Italian 98 clips, wonder 46
I-cord buttons 151 knit on 92 close beading 222
positioning 201 knotted 103 closed central increase 143
lace knitting 152 closed yarn over on garter stitch 134

clusters
beaded clusters 222
wrapped clusters 170
coasters, geometric 300–301
color wheel 30
colors, choosing 30–31
colorwork 154–64
changing colors in arm knitting
260
charted colorwork 158
check slip-stitch pattern 157
checkered blanket 306–307
checked pillow 304–305
child’s Fair Isle bobble hat 298–99
circular medallions 182
color-block blanket 310–13
colorwork patterns 71–75, 338–45
combined technique Argyle 75, 342
combined technique flower 340
dip stitch 166
domino squares 155–56
double-sided scarf 276–77
dropping and unraveling stitches
and rows 165
Fair Isle 159, 162
Fair Isle blossom motif 72, 339
Fair Isle heart motif 74, 341
faux colorwork patterns 76–77,
343–45
harlequin scarf 264–65
holding the yarns 159–60
intarsia 164
intarsia bird 72, 339
intarsia climbing vine 75, 343
intarsia duck 74, 342
intarsia flowers 72, 340
intarsia heart 71, 338
intarsia little lady 73, 341
intarsia numbers and letters
73, 340
intarsia cat 73, 340
intarsia skull-and-crossbones
74, 342
intarsia snowflake 75, 343
intarsia tulip 73, 341
knit and purl Fair Isle 162
knit weave 163
knitted-in smocking 171
magma felted pillow 314–15, 355
men’s striped sweater 284–87
repeating Fair Isle circles 71, 338
shadow knitting 172–73
simple Fair Isle borders 71, 338
stripes 154–56
tea-cosy stitch 163
techniques for weaving 160–62
three-color Fair Isle zigzags 74, 339
tidying edges 156
two-color cables 164
two-strand laying-in 163
combined technique Argyle 75, 342
combined technique flower 340
combined two strand cast-on 99
“Continental” style knitting 89–91
contrast edge cast-on 96
conversion chart, needle sizes 39
cool colors 30
cord
cord-makers 46
I-cord 148–51
INDEX 359
cotton yarns double yarn over 134 leaf eyelet pattern 65, 332
matte cotton 14 doubling 177 open eyelet 153
mercerized cotton 15 drawthread bobbles 236 reinforced eyelet buttonhole 202
wool and cotton 19 drop stitch 69, 169, 336 star eyelet pattern 67, 334
covered buttons 237 dropped stitches
craft yarns 32
crochet cast-off 108
dropped stitch pattern 70, 337
dropping and unraveling stitches
F
fabric, knitting with 26
crochet chain loop cast-off 113 and rows 165 faces, toys 242–43
crochet hooks 44 picking up 121, 261 faggoting 68, 336
insetting beads with 221 duck motif, intarsia 74, 342 Fair Isle 154
picking up stitches 196
E
charts 158
crochet provisional cast-on 102 child’s Fair Isle bobble hat 298–99
curls, embossing 228 edge-to-edge seam 213 combined technique Argyle 75, 342
curved edges, picking up stitches edgings 78–80, 345–48 Fair Isle blossom 72, 339
197 archway 80, 347 Fair Isle heart 74, 341
cute hooded baby jacket 288–91 beaded 80, 348 garter stitch 162
cutters 45 cabled 80, 348 knit and purl 162
cutting into knitting 218 christening 78, 346 simple Fair Isle borders 71, 338
D
colorwork 156 stranding technique 159
edging cast-off 112 three-color Fair Isle zigzags 74,
darning in ends 120 edging cast-on 104 339
decorations see embellishments fringe 79, 347 fans
decreases 135–37 godmother’s 79, 347 fan cable 64, 331
arm knitting 257 I-cord 149 feather and fan stitch 57, 323
decorative central decreases 144–45 open weave 80, 348 fastenings 35, 219
decrease cast-off 110 peaks 78, 345 faux colorwork patterns 76–77,
double decreases 137 petal 78, 345 343–45
fully fashioned shaping 141 picking up stitches 196–97 arrowhead stitch 77, 344
knit two together 135, 257 picot 79, 346 broken stripes stitch 76, 343
paired decreases 138 picot ruffle 79, 346 garter slip stitch 76, 344
paired edge decreases 140 sewing on 217 honeycomb stitch 77, 345
purl two together 135 elongated stitches 169 peeping purl stitch 76, 343
slip one, knit one, passed slipped embellishments 220–37 vertical stripes stitch 77, 344
stitch over 136 bead knitting 220–24 weavers stitch 77, 344
slip, slip, knit 136, 257 bobbles and embossing 224–28 feather and fan stitch 57, 323
slip, slip, purl 137 covered buttons 237 felted knitting 244–46
see also increases and decreases felted knitting 246 decorations 246
delayed cast-off 108 fringes 236 hand felting 244
detached bobbles 225 materials 34–35 machine felting 244
diagonal beading 83, 351 pom-poms 234 magma felted pillow 314–15, 355
diagonal buttonhole 207 tassels 235 swatches for test-felting 244
diagonal cast-off 113 3-D embellishments 233–37 yarns 244
diagonal lace ribs 69, 337 embossing fibers, yarns 12
diagonal rib 58, 323 bells 227 figure-eight start for seams 214
diamanté stitch 84, 352 curls 228 fine yarns 32, 33
diamonds flaps 227 finger loop cast-on 93
diamond cable 63, 328 embroidery 229–32 fingering 32
diamond lace pattern 68, 335 bullion stitch 231 finishing details 196–219
diamond stitch 54, 321 chain stitch on stripes 232 blocking 213
openwork diamonds 68, 335 felted knitting 245, 246 buttonholes 201–207
dip stitch 166 lazy daisy stitch 231 cutting into knitting 218
DK (double knit) yarns 32, 33 running stitch 231 fastenings 219
domino eyelet pattern 67, 334 satin stitch 230 hems 211–12
domino squares smocking 232 picking up stitches 196–97
joining 155 Swiss darning 229–30 pockets 208–10
plain color 155 embroidery thread 34, 238 seams 213–17
striped 156 ends selvages 197–200
weaving in ends 156 darning in 120 sewing on an edging 217
Donegal yarn 23 weaving in 259 fisherman’s rib 54, 321
double cast-on 95 English rib 54, 321 five-color stockinette stitch stripe 154
double decreases 137 “English” style knitting 89 5-ply yarns 32, 33
double knit (DK) yarns 32, 33 entrelac 174–5 flaps, embossing 227
double moss stitch 55, 321 eyelash yarn 21 flat central decrease 145
double-pointed needles 40 eyelets flowers 59–60, 324–26
circular knitting with 191 chain eyelet 152 anemone 60, 325
double rib 53, 320 domino eyelet pattern 67, 334 combined technique flower 340
double-sided scarf 276–77 eyelet lines 70, 336 Fair Isle blossom 72, 339
double slipped garter selvages 198 eyelet mesh pattern 65, 332 felted knitting 246
double stitch 165 grand eyelet mesh stitch 65, 332 flower with large center 60, 326
double twist loop cast-on 94 lace knitting 152 flower with small center 59, 326
 360 INDEX

intarsia flower 72, 340 horseshoe cable 62, 327 invisible cast-on 102 knots
intarsia tulip 73, 341 horseshoe lace 69, 337 Italian cast-on 98 magic knot 119
INDEX

puffball flower 60, 325 slip knot 88, 252

spinning-petal flower 59, 324
twelve-petal flower 59, 324
I J square knot 119
weaver’s knot 118
I-cord 148–51 jackets 32
4-ply yarns 32, 33 attached I-cord 149 cute hooded baby jacket 288–91 knotted cast-on 103
four-stitch cable pattern 61, 326
L
button loop 149 jelly yarn 26
14-ply yarns 32, 33 edging 149 joining
free form I-cord 148 free-form I-cord 148 domino squares 155 labels, yarn 29
frilly cast-on 104 I-cord bobble 150 magic knot 119 lace knitting 152–53
fringes 236 I-cord button 151 needle join 120 arrowhead lace 66, 333
fringe edging 79, 347 I-cord cast-off 150 new yarn 119–20 big leaf lace 67, 334
fringed selvage 200 spiral I-cord 148 Russian join 119 chain eyelet 152
fully fashioned shaping 141 two-color I-cord 148 see also seams delicate lace shawl 266–69
fur knitting 167 increased horizontal buttonholes 205 jumbo yarns 32, 33 diagonal lace ribs 69, 337

G
increases 128–34 diamond lace 68, 335

garment bags 49
garment care 48–49
garment patterns 127
garter stitch 116
beaded garter stitch 85, 352
closed yarn over on garter stitch
134
Fair Isle 162
garter chevron 57, 323
garter rib 56, 322
garter selvages 197–98
garter slip stitch 76, 344
garter-stitch beading 221
garter stitch cable 63, 329
garter zigzag twist 62, 329
two-color garter stitch stripe 154
gathering 177
gauges, needle 42
geometric coasters 300–301
giant yarns 32, 33
godmother’s edging 79, 347
grafted seam 215
grafting open stitches together 216
grand eyelet mesh pattern 65, 332
H
half moss stitch 55, 321
hand felting 244
hanks 28
winding a hank into a ball 118
harlequin scarf 264–65
hats
child’s Fair Isle bobble hat 298–99
men’s textured hat 282–83
yarn weights 32
heart motifs
Fair Isle heart 74, 341
intarsia heart 71, 338
helix knitting 190
hemp yarns 16
hems 211–12
picked up hem 211
picot hem 212
hexagons 82, 350
holding yarn and needles 89–91,
159–60
holes, preventing 180–81
honeycomb stitch 56, 322
honeycomb (colorwork) 77, 345
horizontal buttonholes
cast-off 204
increased 205
horizontal inset pocket 209
arm knitting 256
closed yarn over on garter stitch
134
decorative central increases 142–43
double yarn over 134
knit into front and back of stitch
128
lifted increase on knit row 129
“make one” increase on purl row
131
“make one” left cross increase on
knit row 129
make one on a knit row 256
“make one” right cross increase on
knit row 130
multiple increases 131
paired increases 138
paired lifted edge increase 139
purl into front and back of stitch
128
simple 128–31
yarn over at beginning of knit row
256
yarn-over increases 132–33
increases and decreases patterns
basic chevron 57, 323
blackberry stitch 58, 323
bobble stitch 58, 324
diagonal rib 58, 323
feather and fan stitch 57, 323
flower patterns 59–60, 324–26
garter chevron 57, 323
puff stitch 58, 323
inset pockets 209–10
intarsia 164
charts 158
climbing vine 75, 343
color-block blanket 310–13
combined technique Argyle 75, 342
intarsia bird 72, 339
intarsia duck 74, 342
intarsia flowers 72, 340
intarsia heart 71, 338
intarsia little lady 73, 341
intarsia numbers and letters
73, 340
intarsia cat 73, 340
intarsia skull and crossbones
74, 342
intarsia snowflake 75, 343
intarsia tulip 73, 341
magma felted pillow 314–15, 355
two-color cables 164
interchangeable circular needles 41
interwoven eyelets 70, 337
K domino eyelet 67, 334
knit and purl stitch patterns 52–57,
320–22
basketweave 53, 320
broken rib 55, 322
broken seed 56, 322
diamond 54, 321
double rib 53, 320
double seed 56, 322
English rib 54, 321
Fair Isle 162
fisherman’s rib 54, 321
garter rib 56, 322
mock rib 55, 321
moss 55, 321
moss stitch columns 56, 322
seed 52, 320
single rib 52, 320
striped box 53, 320
stockinette box 54, 321
textured rib 53, 320
traveling rib 55, 322
knit stitch 116
alternative “Continental” style 90
arm knitting 254
fully fashioned shaping 141
knit into front and back of stitch
128
knit-on cast-on 92
knit two together 135, 257
knitting through back of loop 125
lifted increase on knit row 129
reverse knit stitch 194
two-color knit and purl pinstripe
154
unpicking a knit row 121
knit weave 163
knitted button loops 201
knitted-in smocking 171
knitting bags 43
knitting beads 34
knitting dolly 46
knitting in the round see circular
knitting
knitting mill 46
knitting patterns
abbreviations 125
altering 127
following 122, 126–7
garment patterns 127
stitch symbol charts 125
terminology and symbols 125
knitwise, slipping stitches 125
knitwise cast-off 106
dropped stitch 70, 337
eyelet lines 70, 336
eyelet mesh 65, 332
faggoting 68, 336
grand eyelet mesh 65, 332
horseshoe lace 69, 337
interwoven eyelets 70, 337
lace stitch patterns 65–70
ladder lace 69, 336
leaf eyelet 65, 332
leaves lace 67, 335
mini-leaf 66, 333
nautical motif 70, 336
open eyelet 153
openwork diamonds 68, 335
simple drop stitch 69, 336
star eyelet pattern 67, 334
vertical mesh pattern 66, 333
victory lace 68, 335
yarns 32, 33, 153
zigzag mesh pattern 66, 334
ladder lace 69, 336
lady motif, intarsia little 73, 341
latch hook 44
laundry symbols 29
lavender sachets 48
lazy daisy stitch 231
leaves
big-leaf lace 67, 334
large leaf 60, 325
leaf eyelet 65, 332
leaves lace 67, 335
mini-leaf 66, 333
leg warmers, yarn weights 32
letter motifs, intarsia 73, 340
lifted increase on knit row 129
linen yarns 15
little lady motif, intarsia 73, 341
long-tail cast-on 95, 253
loop, knitting through back of 125
loop-pile knitting 167
loops
beaded loops 222
button loops 201
I-cord button loop 149
Möbius loop 187
lower stitches, working into 165–66
M
machine embroidery thread 34
machine felting 244
magic knot 119
“magic loop” knitting 188
 INDEX 361

magma felted pillow 314–15, 355 sizes 39 horizontal inset pocket 209 running stitch, embroidery 231
“make one” increases slipping stitches off 107 picked up patch pocket 208 Russian join 119
on knit row 129, 256 square 39 vertical inset pocket 210
left cross increase on knit row 129
on purl row 131
straight 38–39
for toys 238
point protectors 43
polyamide yarns 18
S
satin stitch, embroidery 230
right cross increase on knit row 130 wooden 38 pom-poms 47, 234 scarves 32
make one on a knit row 256 yarn labels 29 popcorns 224 double-sided scarf 276–77
materials and yarn weights 32 preparing yarns 118–19 harlequin scarf 264–65
embellishments 34–35 needles (sewing) 42, 44 press snaps 219 scissors 42
yarns 12–33 number motifs, intarsia 73, 340 provisional cast-on 101 seams 213–17
matte cotton yarns 14 nylon yarns 18 crochet provisional cast-on 102 backstitch seam 215
mattress stitch 214, 259 pseudo lace 153
O
edge-to-edge seam 213
medallions 81–82, 349–51 puff stitch 58, 323 figure-eight start for seams 214
circular 81, 182, 349 octagons, simple 82, 350 puffball flower 60, 325 grafted seam 215
circular knitting 193 one row horizontal buttonhole 203 pull-up stitch 166 grafting open stitches together 216
hexagons 82, 350 open central increase 143 purl stitch 117 mattress stitch 214
mitered squares 82, 350 open eyelet 153 alternative “Continental” style three-needle cast-off 108
simple octagons 82, 350 open weave edging 80, 348 90–91 whip stitch seam 215
simple squares 81, 349 openwork arm knitting 255 seasonal mixtures, choosing colors
square with openwork 82, 351 multicolored 153 fully fashioned shaping 141 31
square with swirl increases 81, 349 openwork diamonds 68, 335 purl cast-off 106 seed stitch 52, 320
menswear 32 square with openwork 82, 351 purl into front and back of stitch broken 56, 322
men’s striped sweater 284–87 owl toy, child’s 294–97 128 columns 56, 322
men’s textured hat 282–83 purl two together 135 double 55, 321
mercerized cotton 15
merino wool 13 P reverse purl stitch 194
two-color knit and purl pinstripe
half 55, 321
selvages 197–200
mesh stitch pailettes 35 154
paired decreases 138, 140 chain 199
eyelet 65, 332 unpicking a purl row 121 double slipped garter 198
grand eyelet 65, 332 paired increases 138, 139, 142 purlwise, slipping stitches 122
partial knitting see short rows fringed 200
vertical 66, 333 “put-ups” 28 garter 197–98
zigzag 66, 334 pastel colors 31

R
patch pockets, picked up 208 picot loop 199
metallic yarns 17, 18 picot point 200
microfiber yarns 17 patterns see knitting patterns
peaks, short row 185 rag knitting 248 slipped garter 198
milk protein yarns 16 raised central decrease 144 sequins 35
mini-leaf pattern 66, 333 peaks edging 78, 345
peekaboo beads 85, 353 ramie yarns 16 all-over sequins 85, 353
mistakes recycling vertical sequin stripes 85, 353
picking up dropped stitches 121 peeping purl stitch 76, 343
petal edging 78, 345 plarn knitting 249–51 shadow knitting 172–73
unpicking 121 rag knitting 248 shaping, fully fashioned 141
mittens 32 picked-up hem 211
picked-up patch pocket 208 yarns 247 shawls 32
Möbius loops 187 reflective yarn 24 delicate lace shawl 266–69
mohair brushes 48 picking up stitches 196–97
arm knitting 261 reinforced eyelet buttonhole 202 shopping bags, plarn knitting 249–51
mohair yarns 13 repeating Fair Isle circles 71, 338 short rows 180–85
felted knitting 245 cast-on/off edge 196
crochet hooks 196 reverse knitting 194 circular medallions 182
lace knitting 153 reverse stitch beading 221 preventing holes 180–81
monkey, striped 238–43, 354 curved edges 197
picking up dropped stitches 121 reverse stockinette stitch 117 ruffles 183
moss stitch 321 ribbing shaping 181
moth deterrents 48, 49 row ends 196
picot edging 79, 346 broken rib 55, 322 short row balls 184
multicolored openwork 153 casting off in rib effect 107 short row peaks 185
multicolored slip-stitch patterns picot hem 212
picot loop selvage 199 diagonal lace ribs 69, 337 3-D knitting 184–85
157 diagonal rib 58, 323 shoulders, short row shaping 181
multicolored yarn 154 picot point cast-off 109
picot point chain 170 double rib 53, 320 shrug, textured women’s 272–75
multiple increases 131 English rib 54, 321 silicone yarn 26
picot point selvage 200

N picot ruffle edging 79, 346 fisherman’s rib 54, 321 silk yarns 15
pilling 48 garter rib 56, 322 simple circle 81, 349
natural fibers 12–16 pillows single ribbing 52, 117, 320 simple drop stitch 69, 336
natural and synthetic mixes 19 checked pillow 304–305 traveling rib 55, 322 simple Fair Isle borders 71, 338
nautical motif 70, 336 chunky pillow 308–309 very stretchy single rib cast-off 112 simple octagons 82, 350
needle gauges 32 magma felted pillow 314–15, 355 ribbon 34 simple square 81, 349
needle join 120 pinhole cast-on 105 ribbon yarn 22 simple twists 146
needles 38–41 pins 42 roll-edge tubular cast-on 103 single ribbing 52, 117, 320
bamboo 39 blocking pins 44 roving yarns 32, 33 very stretchy single rib cast-off 112
cable 45 pinstripe, two-color knit and purl row counters 43 single strand cast-on 91
carbon-fiber needles with metal 154 lace knitting 152 6-ply yarns 32, 33
tips 39 plain color domino squares 155 row ends, picking up stitches 196 six-stitch cable pattern 61, 327
circular 40–41, 186 plarn knitting 249–51 row markers, beads as 124 16-ply yarns 32, 33
conversion chart 39 plastic bags, knitting with 25, 249–50 rubber yarn 26 sizes, garment patterns 127
double-pointed 40, 191 plastic yarn 26 ruffles 183 skull-and-crossbones motif, intarsia
holding 89–91 pleats 176 picot ruffle edging 79, 346 74, 342
metal 38 plied yarn 20 rugs 32 slip, slip, knit 136, 257
needle organizers 43 pockets 208–10 arm-knitted rug 316–17 slip, slip, purl 137
plastic 39 slip knots 88, 252
 362 INDEX

slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch

over 136
vertical stripes stitch 77, 344
structural effects 174–79
knitting two tubular items at once
188–89 Y
yarn bobbins 47
INDEX

slip-stitch beading 220 bias knitting 178 “magic loop” knitting 188
slip-stitch pattern, check 157 doubling 177 tubular pockets for large beads 223 yarn cutters 45
slipped garter selvages 198 entrelac 174–75 tulip cluster bobble 226 yarn-over increases 132–34
slipping stitches knitwise 125 gathering 177 tulip motif, intarsia 73, 341 at the beginning of a row 133
slipping stitches off needles 107 pleats 176 Tunisian knitting 195 between knit and purl stitches
slipping stitches purlwise 122 tubular knitting 179 tweed yarn 23 132–33
slubby yarn 21 stuffing toys 240–41 twelve-petal flower 59, 324 closed yarn over on garter stitch
smocking 63, 328 subtle sparkles 83, 351 12-ply yarns 32, 33 134
embroidered 232 super bulky yarns 32, 33 twice knit knitting 195 double yarn over 134
knitted-in 171 super chunky yarns 32, 33 twice-knitted cast-on 103 yarn over at beginning of knit row
smooth diagonal cast-off 113 superfine yarns 32, 33 twisted double cast-on 97 256
snowflake motif, intarsia 75 suspended cast-off 108 twists 146 yarns 12–33
socks 32, 45 swatches simple twists 146 arm knitting 260
soft-spun yarns 22 felted knitting 244 twizzels 233 ball-winders 46
soy yarns 16 measuring tension 127 two-color garter stitch stripe 154 bio-synthetic fibers 16–17
sparkles, subtle 83, 351 sweaters 32 two-color I-cord 148 blends 19
speciality yarns 20–24 men’s striped sweater 284–87 two-needle cast-on 98 buying 28
spinning-petal flower 59, 324 swifts 47 2-ply yarns 32, 33 choosing colors 30–31
spiral I-cord 148 swirl increases, square with 81, 349 two-row cast-off 110 darning in ends 120
spiral knitting 192 Swiss darning 229–30 two-strand cast-ons 95–99 felted knitting 244
spit splice 260 symbols 29, 125 two-strand double cast-on 99 fibers 12
sport yarns 32 synthetic yarns 17–18 two-strand laying-in 163 holding 89–91
square knot 118 natural and synthetic mixes 19 joining on a new yarn 119–20
squares
circular knitting 193
synthetic-only mixes 19 U–V knots 118–19
labels 29
T
unpicking 121
mitered squares 82, 350 lace knitting 153
unusual yarns 25–27, 247–51
simple square 81, 349 natural fibers 12–16
table runner, elegant 302–303 variegated yarns 154, 247
square with openwork 82, 351 plarn knitting 249–51
tape measures 43 vertical buttonholes 206
square with swirl increases 81, 349 preparing 118–19
tape yarn 22 vertical inset pockets 210
star eyelet pattern 67, 334 rag knitting 248
tapestry needles 42 vertical mesh stitch 66, 333
star stitches, felted knitting 246 recycling 247
tassels 235 vertical ruffles 183
steam blocking 213 slipping stitches off needles 107
tea-cozy stitch 163 vertical sequin stripes 85, 353
steeks, cutting into knitting 218 speciality yarns for textural effects
tension 29, 127 vertical stripes stitch 77, 344
stitch holders 42 20–24
terminology 125 very stretchy single rib cast-off 112
slipping stitches off needles 107 string knitting 250–51
textural effects 165–73 victory lace 68, 335
stitch markers 43 swifts 47
double stitch 165 vine, intarsia climbing 75, 343
beads as 124 synthetic fibers 17–18
elongated stitches 169
stitch pattern instructions 122–26
stitch stoppers 46
knitted-in smocking 171
loop-pile or fur knitting 167
W threading beads onto yarn 220
for toys 238
stockinette stitch 116 washing machines 49 unusual yarns 24–27, 247–51
picot point chain 170 felted knitting 244
beaded stockinette stitch 83, 351 weights and thicknesses 32–33
pull-up stitch 166 symbols on yarn labels 29
five-color stockinette stitch stripe winding a hank into a ball 118
three-into-three stitch 168 wavy cable pattern 64, 331
154 winding up long tails 120
working into lower stitches 165–66 weaver’s knot 118
fully fashioned shaping 141
knit weave 163
reverse stockinette stitch 117
wrapped clusters 170
yarns for 20–24
weavers stitch 77, 344
weaving, techniques for 160–62
Z
textured check stitch 53, 320 zigzag mesh stitch 66, 334
stockinette box stitch 54, 321 weaving in ends
textured stockinette stitch stripe 154 zigzags, three-color Fair Isle 74, 339
textured stockinette stitch stripe 154 arm knitting 259
textured women’s shrug 272–75 zippers, sewing in 219
straight needles 38–39 domino knitting 156
thicknesses, yarn 32–33 weights, yarn 32–33
stranding technique, Fair Isle 159 thread 34
stretch yarn 24 wet blocking 213
threading beads onto yarn 220 wet-felted basics 244
string, knitting with 26, 250–51 three-color Fair Isle zigzags 74, 339
stripes whip stitch seam 215
3-D embellishments, twizzels 233 whip stitch stitch 259
beaded stripes 84, 353 3-D knitting 184–85
broken stripes stitch 76, 343 winding yarns 46, 47
three-into-three stitch 168 wire
chain stitch on stripes 232 three needle cast-off 108
domino squares 156 blocking wire 44
3-ply yarns 32, 33 knitting with 25
felted knitting 245 thumb cast-on 91
five-color stockinette stitch stripe women’s cardigan 278–81
tools 38–49 women’s shrug, textured 272–75
154 toys, knitted 238–43, 354
harlequin scarf 264–65 wonder clips 46
child’s owl toy 294–97 wool roving 27
men’s striped sweater 284–87 striped monkey 238–43, 354
striped check stitch 53, 320 wool wash 49
traveling rib 55, 322 wool yarns 12
striped monkey 238–43, 354 trimmings 35
textured stockinette stitch stripe 154 felted knitting 244, 245
tubular cast-off 111 wool and cotton yarns 19
two-color garter stitch stripe 154 tubular cast-on 102
two-color knit and purl pinstripe worsted yarns 32, 33
alternative roll-edge tubular woven cable 64, 330
154 cast-on 103
vertical sequin stripes 85, 353 wrapped clusters 170
tubular knitting 179, 186–92

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
SECOND EDITION
Vikki Haffenden Updating and expanding this new edition
would not have been possible without the love, understanding
and cups of tea from my family: Ross, Jack, Ben and Tom—
their continuing support has been a generous gift. Grateful
thanks also go to Nikki Sims and the team at DK who
accepted my additions and rewrites with enthusiasm and
patience. Acknowledgment is also due to those talented
knitters and designers, past and present, who inspire us all.
Dorling Kindersley UK would like to thank: the following
knit designers for the new projects commissioned just for this
edition: Jo Allport, Shirley Bradford, Sian Brown, Caroline
Birkett, Tessa Dennison, Zoë Halstead, and Fiona Morris. And
the knitting technicians and knitters for their invaluable work
to the projects reknitted for this book: Caroline Birkett, Zoë
Halstead, Susie Johns, Val Pierce, and Jenni Pitt.
Carol Ibbetson for pattern checking, Oreolu Grillo for
proofreading, and Vanessa Bird for indexing.
Ruth Jenkinson for photography, XAB Design for art direction
for photography, and Poppy Blakiston Houston for
photography assistance.
Dorling Kindersley India would like to thank: Dharini Ganesh
for editorial assistance.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 363
FIRST EDITION
Vikki Haffenden This book could not have been written
without love, understanding, and cups of tea from my family:
Ross, Jack, Ben, and Tom—their gift was truly generous.
Grateful thanks go to Danielle Di Michiel at DK and Gail
and Mary for their support throughout. Acknowledgment
is also due to those talented knitters past and present who
inspire us all.
Frederica Patmore I would like to thank Rowan Yarns for all
their support with fabulous yarns and garments, especially
Sarah and Sharon, the Kidsilk Queens. A very special thank
you to all my wonderful knitters and pattern checkers—such
amazing hands you all have! Finally a huge thank you to DK
for approaching me, you’ve been a joy to work with, especially
you, Danielle!
Project and stitch pattern knitting technicians: Karen Rogers,
Karina Westermann, Sophie Adamantos, Paula Martin, Karin
King, Natalie Warner, Angela Connor, Janet Semus, Annette
Traves, Fiona Winning, Juliana Yeo, Caroline Pearce, Kay
Massingham, Lisa MacNaughton, Juliet Bernard, Nancy
Edwards, and Emily Blades.
Dorling Kindersley UK would like to thank: Rose Sharp Jones
for her exemplary technical assistance at the photoshoot,
Caroline de Souza for her art direction at the photoshoot,
Rowan Yarns for providing beautiful yarn, Lana Pura for
supplying yarns and other materials, David MacLeod at Rowan
and Ruth Cross for the loan of garments for photography, Peter
Anderson for photographing the double-page images, Jenny
Latham for proofreading, and Hilary Bird for indexing.
Dorling Kindersley India would like to thank: Minal Gupta,
Mimmy Jain, and Mukta Roy for acting as technicians at the
shoot, Aditi Batra and Simran Kaur for assistance during
the shoot.
FOR DORLING KINDERSLEY
Project Editor Danielle Di Michiel
Project Art Editor Jane Ewart
Editors Katie Hardwicke, Fiona Corbridge
Managing Editor Dawn Henderson
Managing Art Editor Christine Keilty
Senior Jacket Creative Nicola Powling
Senior Production Editor Jennifer Murray
Senior Production Controller Alice Sykes
Creative Technical Support Sonia Charbonnier
364

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Vikki Haffenden, author of the techniques chapters,
is a textiles expert with a special focus in digital knit
design and practice. For this new edition, Vikki has DK UK
Senior Editors Pre-production Producer
reviewed and updated the entire first edition. Her
Nikki Sims, Kathryn Meeker David Almond
research has developed an understanding of industry Senior Art Editors Senior Producer
and consumer relationships with knitted textiles, Glenda Fisher, Tessa Bindloss Stephanie McConnell
especially in issues related to women’s body shapes. Editor Creative Technical Support
Amy Slack Sonia Charbonnier
Following a career in industry design practice and US Editor Managing Editor
wide-ranging consultancy work, Vikki continues Karyn Gerhard Stephanie Farrow
her interests in the use of computer design for knit, US Consultant Managing Art Editor
Jennifer Wendell Kosek Christine Keilty
bringing this, alongside theories of practice, to her
Designer Art Director
teaching at the University of Brighton. She has Hannah Moore Maxine Pedliham
worked on DK’s The Knitting Book (2011), Knit Step Editorial Assistant Publishing Director
Poppy Blakiston Houston Mary-Clare Jerram
by Step (2012), Big Book of Knitting (2013), and Baby &
Jacket Designer
Toddler Knits Made Easy (2013). For her most recent Nicola Powling
DK INDIA
publication, Translating Between Hand and Machine Jackets Co-ordinator Pre-production Manager
Lucy Philpott Sunil Sharma
Knitting (2018), Vikki draws on the breadth of her
DTP Designers
skills and experience in all aspects of knitting. Satish Gaur, Rajdeep Singh, Anurag Trivedi

Frederica Patmore, author of the tools and materials,
projects, and stitch pattern chapters in the first
edition, is a Design Consultant for Rowan Yarns, one
of the biggest providers of luxury yarns in the world.
She runs a number of classes at different skill levels
in branches of the John Lewis department store and
independent knitting shops, and contributes to
needlecraft publications. As well as being a master
of knitting technique, Frederica is an accomplished
and successful knitting pattern designer.
This American Edition, 2019
First American Edition, 2011
Published in the United States by DK Publishing
1450 Broadway, Suite 801, New York, NY 10018
Copyright © 2011, 2019 Dorling Kindersley Limited
DK, a division of Penguin Random House LLC
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001–312706–Sept/2019
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights of the copyright reserved
above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or
introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any
means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise),
without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
ISBN: 978-1-4564-8240-2

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