7 © | we Basic Concept on Pattern Definition of Pattern In garment making, the word ‘pattern’ refers to a shape or dice of different parts of a garment that is made by cutting a piece of paper after sketching different types of measurement of garments in It According to this pattern cloth is cut and then garment is made. For industrial production different patterns are made for different size and a marker is made with these different patterns for 2 large" scale production. Objectives of pattern making Now making a pattern has some functions. These are as follows: 1. To sketch the parts primarily according to the body on paper. To make pattern for different size by increasing or decreasing measurements. To make a marker for large-scale production. 4, Finally to save time and money to make fast and cheaper production Pattern Making Tools Straight Pin Straight Pin Holder Scissor Y Paper Scissor Y Fabric Scissor Pencil & Pen Ruler Curve Scale v French Curve Y Hip Curve Hanger Hook or Ringer © To hold patterns together for hanging on rod, + Push Pin % Scotch Tape + Noteher Tracing Wheel Metal Weight Measuring Tape Tailor’s Chalk *w Pattern Production Terms First Pattern ‘The original pattern developed for each design is called first pattern. This type of pattern is made from paper pieces and usually requires fitting and adjustments. Pattern grading . Grading a pattern is a way of sizing a pattern up (or down) while maintaining the proportions of the original pattern. n order to produce clothing that fits various body types and sizes, the pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete rarige of sizes. The process of resizing the initial pattern is called "grading." For example, the sample size ‘M’ patterns must be made larger to accommodate sizes L, XL, XXL and smaller for sizes XS, S. Production Pattern The production pattern is a pattern set that has been corrected and perfected and also contains, every pattern piece required to complete the garment. Pattern Grain Line The pattern grain line is a line drawn on each pattern piece to indicate how the pattern should align with the lengthwise grain of the fabric. Regardless of where the grain line is drawn on the pattern, it vill always be placed on the fabric so that the grain line perallel to the selvedge edge.Direction of grain line > Vertical grain lines (lengthwise) are drawn parallel to centre for garments cutting on straight grain > Bias grain lines are drawn at an angle to the centre (45 degree angle from true bias) for garments cutting > Horizontal grain lines (horizontal) are drawn at right angles to centre for garments cut on crosswise grain Lengthwise grain Selvage Bias \ +<—____- Crosswise grain Grain line arrows > Arrows placed at both ends of the grain line indicate that the top of the pattern may be placed in either direction along the lengthwise grain line of the fabric {for fabrics without special effect) > An arrow placed at the top or the bottom of the grain line indicate that the pattern must be placed in one direction only (for fabrics with special effect)Pattern information and Symbols Pattern information can be placed in centre of the pattern or placed along the grain line, and on the right-sic a fe -up of each pattern. The following information and symbols can be used on patterns: Style and order number Grain line Pattern part (ike: front, back, sleeve, collar, pocket etc.) Dole Sit Pocket placement re toners Buttonholes Zipper placement Pattern size Number of pieces Fabric identification Special information (like print, embroidery and their placement etc)