Introduction

In present the ready-made Garments is one of the parts of parcel of Garments sector.
On the other hand the ready-made garment is totally incomplete without sewing
process. But it is true that, sometimes we do not get the expected result in this
section.

Fabric Defects
A fabric defect corresponds to a flaw on the manufactured fabric surface.
There are numerous fabric defects, and most of them are caused by machine
or process malfunctions. Apart from this, defects are caused by faulty yarns or
machine spoils. Each factor has different effects and greatly reduces the sale
and serviceability of the textiles.
Type of Fabric Defects:
Specifically there have no type of fabric defects .But in general, we can divide fabric
Defect into four type:
• Construction Defects
• Laten Defects
• Pattern Defects
• Other Defects.
 Construction Defects
When a fabric made off with the faulty Yarn or faulty fiber or other faulty raw
materials, Then the construction defects occurred in the fabric.
Yarn Faults
• Barre - These are horizontal stripes or streaks of uniform or uneven width caused
mainly due to high yarn tension.
• Broken Filaments - This defect occurs when individual filaments constituting the
main yarn are broken.
• Coloured Flecks - It occurs due to the presence of coloured foreign matter in the
yarn.
• Knots - This results when broken threads are pieced together by improper knotting.
• Slub - A Slub is a bunch of fibers having less twist or no twist and has a wider
diameter compared to normal spun yarn.
• Spirality - It is the twisting of yarn due to residual torque in it.
 Remedies:
• By Reducing yarn Tension.
• filaments constituting should be same.
• Thread placement should be proper in the knitting time.

Sloughing off
Thick bunches of yarn are woven into the fabric in the weft direction due to slipping off of
coils of yarn from the pirn during weaving.
 Causes
• Improper package characteristics.
• Softly wound pirns.
• Harsh picking and/or poor shuttle checking.
• Poor humidity conditions during the storage of pirns.
Remedies
• Employ correct package characteristics in pirn winding.
• Ensure proper yarn tension during pirn winding in the case of rewound weft and in
spinning in the case of direct weft.
• Check the picking and checking mechanisms.
• Condition the weft before putting it on loom.
 Laten Defects
In the law of the sale of property (both real estate and personal property or chattels) a latent defect is a fault in
the property that could not have been discovered by a reasonably thorough inspection before the sale.
COLOR FASTNESS
Property of a pigment or dye to retain its original hue, especially without fading, running, or changing when
wetted, washed, cleaned; or stored under normal conditions when exposed to light, heat, or other influences.
Causes Color Fastness:
• Fiber Type
• Class of Dye Used
• Dyeing or Printing Process used
• Types of Finishing Treatments Used
• Action Of Laundering Detergents
Remedies of color fastness:
• Approval sample : It is compulsory to identify any potential risks of color fastness prior to the production. To
do so, the buyer should check the samples received for approval.
• Aaterial check before the Production:
• Prior to the beginning of the production, the material (in this case fabric) intended for the garment
manufacturing should be checked.
• Material check During the production and before the shipment:
• During a garment production inspection or garment pre-shipment inspection, the material is checked on the
finished goods only.
• Laboratory testing: The laboratory is able to perform more precise tests and identify color fastness risks under
different conditions which can’t be created during a product inspection: wet, dry, heat, gas from the
atmosphere, frost, perspiration, light, etc.
 Shrinkage
Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size, usually through
the process of laundry. Cotton fabric suffers from two main disadvantages of shrinking and
creasing during subsequent washing. There are two types of shrinkage occurs during washing 1)
Length wise 2) Width wise Shrinkage.
Causes of Shrinkage:
Shrinkage is mainly due to yarn swelling and the resulting crimp increase during washing in case of
cotton fabrics. Yarn swelling percentage is more in polyester cotton blending yarn. Influencing
factors:
• Twist factor: twist factor increases so that shrinkage will be increases.
• Stitch length: stitch length increases so that shrinkage will be increases.
• GSM: GSM increases so that shrinkage will be decreases. Elasticity of yarn.
Shrinkage control is based on the following factors :
1. correct knitted construction is essential
2. excessive tensions should be eliminated during processing (from grey
inspection to finishing)
3. untwisting and extraction to below 65% moisture content
4. padding the correct softener on to the fabric
5. spreading with overfeed and pre-drying to approximately 30% moisture content
6. step by step shrinkage reduction. Computer programs have been developed in an
attempt to reliably predict the shrinkage and dimensional properties of finished,
knitted cotton fabrics using a database of processed fabrics of known construction,
processing sequences and performance. This was given the name Starfish – start as
you mean to finish! Dry finishing processes are usually restricted to brushing
(particularly for fleece fabrics) and cropping. These processes and their associated
machinery have been discussed in section. Shrinkage control .
Pattern Defects
The visual defect of the fabric is called pattern defect of fabric.
• Broken Colour Pattern - When a coloured yarn is out of place in the creel, this
defect is created.
• Cover - Considering twill fabrics, this defect results when a coloured yarn is out of
place in the creel. If settings are proper, warp yarn will dominate and form a
smooth surface of accentuated twill lines.
• Miss-selection of pattern - In this defect, the pattern design gets altered due to
the random dropping of stitches.
• Skip Stitch - When a stitch is skipped in knitted fabric and next yarn is picked up, a
float is formed on the face of the fabric.
• Horizontal lines
This fabric defect is defined by irregular lines that run from side to side. Horizontal lines are
generally caused by:
1. Faults in the bobbin (the barrel used to hold yarn in place)
2. Irregular thread tension
• Shade variation
One of the more obvious visual defects that can be found on raw textiles, shade variation is
defined by a difference in depth of shade and color from roll to roll or piece to piece. Shade
variation in fabric is caused by:
1. Mixing of fabrics used in production
2. Variations in the production process with regard to time and speed
3. Improper cutting, bundling and/or numbering
4. Unequal fabric stretching
• Dirt/stains
Stains are fairly common among dyed textiles and are defined as spots or patches of differing
color. Textiles are never truly safe from stains because they can occur anytime during or after
production if they’re not kept in an area with adequate protection.
• Uneven dyeing/printing/dye marks
Dye marks are irregular patches on the surface of raw textiles. Dye marks are typically the
result of:
1. Low quality base fabric
2. Improper leveling agents
Remedies:
1. Preventing the appearance of horizontal lines in fabric is quite straightforward. Regularly
replace the bobbin and frequently check thread tension and positioning.
2. Using the same base material and set of parameters for each production lot can
effectively prevent shade variation.
3. Wrapping the finished rolls of fabric in plastic and storing them in a separate area away
from the dying area can help avoid post-production stains.
4. Checking the yarn carrier and any other machines to verify they’re set to the right
tension during production can prevent drop stitches.

There have three type of fabric defect based on :

5. Major defect
6. Minor defect
7. Critical defect
 Major Defect
A major defect is one that is likely to result in a customer complaint or return. A
major defect is also one that will most likely result in product failure after a
period of time that is considered unacceptable to the customer or end user. A
major defect will usually (but not always) be obvious to the inspector during the
visual garments inspection. It will also be obvious to the customer during use.
 Minor Defect
A minor defect is one that is unlikely to result in customer complaint or return. A
minor defect is a deviation from the required standard, but one that is unlikely to
affect the usability of the product. A minor defect will usually be seen by the
inspector, but may be overlooked by the customer.
 Critical Defects
A critical defect is one that is likely to result in hazardous or unsafe conditions
when using the product. A critical defect is also a deviation from delivery
requirements which prevents the product from being received. If one (1)
occurrence of critical defect is observed during the inspection, the entire lot will
be rejected. A 100% inspection will be carried-out by the garments factory QA
Staff to remove the defective product/s.