Introduction to Cutting

Chamal Jayasinghe
Introduction
Cutting room is the area where cut pieces are produced from fabrics.

• Fabric cutting
• Spreading
• Marker Making
• Fusing
• Heat sealing

Are done inside cutting room

Cutting Room Plan

Bundling & Numbering

Spreader

Spreader
Spreader
Introduction
Cutting room is the area where cut pieces are produced from fabrics.

• Fabric cutting
• Spreading
• Marker Making
• Fusing
• Heat sealing

Are done inside cutting room

Before Cutting….
Material storage and inspections are done before cutting fabric. Many
stores has firm storage systems that minimize jamming of fabric lots &
rolls.

Fabric inspection is done to have proper understanding of the material

and raise any claims related to failed or fault material.

The most common fabric inspection method used today is 4-point

system.
What you get from fabric inspection
Normally following details are provided by fabric inspections
department.

1. 100% fabric width & Length

2. 10% fabric inspection report ; GSM report
3. 100% fabric shrinkage report for wash garments
4. Residual shrinkage report for non wash garments
5. Shade wise fabric allocation
Lay planning and marker making
• When cutting room receive all the details , it can start cutting of the
Fabrics. Following documents / guidelines are necessary to start
cutting process.

• Factory production plan

• Factory line wise feeding plan
Fabric
Spreading
Fabric plies are spread on a table as
it meets the demands of the
marker.
This can be done using manual
workers or automatic spreaders.
Manual
spreading
• In manual spreading , two
workers grab the fabric sitting in
opposite sides of a lay table and
move from one end to the other.
Automatic
spreading
• An automatic spreader supports
carry fabric in roll form or bale
form and assist in even
spreading.
The fabric cutting process
Fabric cutting is basically done in two methods

1. Manual cutting
2. Automatic cutting
Manual cutting
• Usually, manual cutting is done using straight knives or band knives.
Automated
cutting
• Automatic cutting is done using
CNC cutting machines that makes
the cutting process easier.
Fusing cut
components
• Fusing is a method that use a
thermoplastic resin to adhere
low-cost materials ( nonwoven )
to cut pieces.
Fusings provide stiffness , reduces
elongation and can be used to
provide number of good properties
to fabric.
 Final Stages of Cutting

Quality control of Re-Cutting faulty Numbering cut Sorting and bundling

cut components components components cut components
Glossary of terms

Bundling / Bundle
Continuous fusing
press ( Fusing Mc.)
Computer
Aided
Designing
(CAD)
Die Cutting
Fabric
Defects
Fabric Shrinkage

The widthwise and lengthwise shrinking of fabric is called as fabric shrinkage.

There are two methods to evaluate this

1. Residual shrinkage
2. Wash shrinkage
Fabric specification ( FDS )
Fabric face side /
Hanger

• Fabric face side is usually provided by

the fabric inspection department to
cutting department .
• A panel attached to a cardboard is
provided to cutting department with
authorized signature.
End cutters
• End cutters are used to cut away
the fabric ply from the fabric roll.
There are manual , semi automatic
and fully automatic end cutters.
Fusing
Lace
Marker
Notches & Cut marks
Cut panel numbering
Cut panel inspection
Ply count & layer height
Underlay
paper