9/21/2020 SPME

ASSIGNMENT-1

PIYUSH KUMAR SINGH

BFT/19/594
DFT SEM 3
CUTTING ROOM ACTIVITIES
Cutting is the process of separating a spread into garment
components as a replica of pattern pieces on a marker. It also
involves transferring marks and notches from the marker to
garment components to facilitate sewing.
The process flow in the cutting department is given below:
LAY PLANNING
It is a process that positions pattern templates onto fabric in
the most economical way. This prevents excess wastage of
fabric and as such ensures the garment is as cheap as it can be
to make. In the garment industry, computer aided design (CAD)
programs are used to facilitate this process.
MARKER PLANNING
Marker is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern
pieces for different sizes for a particular style of garments. The
pattern pieces are placed in the marker in such a way so that
the wastage would be least. Marker making can be done
manually and also automatically.
FABRIC SPREADING
The main aim of the spreading process is to lay the several
fabric plies essential for the production process to the marker
length without any tension on the fabric. The lay height
depends on the order size, volume of production, thickness of
fabric and equipment used.
FABRIC CUTTING PROCESS
After spreading is done, the cutting part comes. Purpose of
cutting is to separate fabric plies as replicas of the patterns in
the marker plan. It also involves transferring marks and notches
from the marker to garment components to facilitate sewing
Generally, there are two types of fabric cutting techniques, they
are portable cutting and stationary cutting.
PREPARATION FOR CUTTING
After the laying process has been completed, the spreader has
to recount the numbers of plies as in the cutting ticket. Then
the following additional steps have to done prior to cutting.
 Moving the spreading machine aside
 Facilitating shrinkage of the lay
 Rechecking the marker
 Fastening the marker to the spread

PREPARATION FOR ASSEMBLING PROCESS

NUMBERING: In this process, each garment component is
marked with a serial number of the layer in the cut. Normally
the numbering code contains garment size (e.g. Small, Medium,
Large), Marker number and layer sequence. The worker can set
the numbering format for each style and marker as desired.
PURPOSE OF NUMBERING:
1.To identify the right garment components of a garment (size,
color, and shade) when operators stitch the garment.
In case, sewing operator stitches a garment taking components
from different layers, there might a chance of shade variation in
the finished garment. This process helps factory to reduce
quality issue related to shade variation.
Most of the times, more than one sizes of the garment is
loaded in the production line. When bundles are open and
move on the machines, there might be a chance of taking
garment parts from different bundles of garment sizes. This
layer number helps an operator to identify correct size of the
component.
SORTING: In this process patterns are sorts according to size
and design and makes bundles of them. This step requires
much precision because making bundles of mismatched
patterns can create severe problems. On each bundle there are
specifications of the style size and the marker too is attached
with it.
BUNDLING: In this process as per the production line
requirement, a certain number of pieces with all components
are tied together. Each bundle is marked with bundle number,
style name, size number and quantity of pieces in that bundle.
At this stage, cuttings are ready to send to a production line for
stitching.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF RESIN
MATERIAL USED FOR FUSING.
1.Polyethylene Coated Interlining: Polyethylene is used as
resin coating. The effect of varying the density of the resin is to
give a greater resistance to dry cleaning solvents and a higher
softening point with increasing density. This type of interlining
is used in collar, cuff of shirt. The fabric attached with this type
of interlining can be washed in water.
2.Polyamide Coated Interlining: Polyamide is used as resin
coating. Poly-amides are very widely used in dry cleanable
garments. High temperature fusing is done for the garments,
which are washed with water at 60ºc.
3.PVC Coated Interlining: Poly vinyl chloride is used as resin
coating This type is suitable for both dry cleanable and
washable garments. PVC coated interlining is widely used for
making the coat type garments.
4.Polyester Coated Interlining: Polyester is used as resin
coating Polyester resins are used in dry cleanable and washable
garments because polyester is less water absorbent than
polyamide. It can be used as in all types of garments. This is
called ideal interlining Available in market but costly in price.
5.Polypropylene Coated Interlining: Polypropylene coated
interlining. The resin is similar to the properties of polyethylene
coated interning Comparatively high temperature fusing is
done. The fabric attached with this interlining can be washed
with water.
6.PVA Coated Interlining: PVA coated interlining. Poly vinyl
acetate is used as resin coating PVA coated interlining is not dry
cleanable and it has limited wash ability  Low temperature and
pressure is required. Basically, it is used between the leather
and fur materials. The resin is normally in the form of a
continuous plasticized coating on the base fabric. This type is
rarely used in garments industry.