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THE DINOSAUR COLLECTION:

PARASAUROLOPHUS
by Halime Özel @handmade_by_halime

KATY
PARRY
Dear crochet lover...
Thank you so much for purchasing the pattern I’m more than happy for you to gift or sell any
of Katy Parry. I hope that you will enjoy crochet items made from this pattern, but would love if
her as much as I loved designing her! you could credit me as a designer.

Much love, time and effort have been put into Never hesitate to contact me through my insta-
designing this amigurumi creation and I would gram account and I will do my best to help you!
appreciate if you do not share this PDF, repro-
duce, alterate or sell this pattern either in its Enjoy this pattern!
entirety or in parts. This pattern is for personal With love,

Halime
use only.

I would love to see your finished creation,


so please give credit to me and add following
note to your item
“pattern by @handmade_by_halime“.

2
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: ABBREVIATIONS
You can either attach the legs with security joints, or ch chain/s
make them moveable with yarn – there are step by slst slip stitch
step images after the Assembly chapter on page 14. sc single crochet
Read more about pros and cons for security joint inc increase; crochet 2 sc in the same stitch
and moveable legs with yarn on page 13. dec decrease; crochet 2 sc together
bo bobble stitch
If you don’t want to make the legs moveable, it hdc half double crochet
works fine just to sew them to the body. st stitch(es)
rnd round(s)
I recommend to look/read through the whole […] x X repeat instructions in brackets X times
pattern, and make decision regarding the legs (..) total number of stitches in the round or
before you start crochet. row

Think about the environment and don’t print out.


If you do so, avoid printing the pages with full
page-pictures.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:
- Yarn – I used a cotton and acrylic blend DK weight
yarn; Scheepjes Soft fun. I used 1 and a half
skeins for the Color A. If you using bigger hook,
have at least 2 skeins. For Color B it's enough
with a half skein.
- Crochet hook 2.5 mm
- Fibrefill / toy stuffing
- Security eyes, 10 mm
- 2 x Security joints (optional)
- Stitch marker, scissor and
embroidery needle

COLORS:
Color A: Clay (dark orange)
Color B: Rust (dark red)
Color C: Black
(White yarn for the eyes.)

SIZE:
19 cm (7,5 inch) in height when sitting.
23 cm (9 inch) when standing.
(Note! When using 2.5 mm crochet hook
and the yarn Scheepjes Soft fun.)

3
YOU MAKE
MY HEART
RAWWWRRR!

4
HEAD CREST yarn tail through the front loops of each stitch and
pull it tight to close. Insert the needle in the middle
Work with Color B. This piece will be worked in rows and pull it out at round 26 (where you went from
and then in rounds. rows to rounds). This yarn tail you will use for attach-
ing the head crest to the head. See picture 04.
Make 5 ch. Stuff the crest with filling.
Row 1: Start on the second chain from the hook; 4 sc,
1 ch (4) 8 sc

Row 2-25, turn the piece after each row, start on first
stitch (skip chain) and end each row with 1 chain.
Row 2: inc, 2 sc, inc (6)
Row 3-6: 6 sc – 4 rows (6)
Row 7: inc, 4 sc, inc (8)
Row 8-13: 8 sc – 6 rows (8)
Row 14: inc, 6 sc, inc (10) 24 sc 24 sc
Row 15-18: 10 sc – 4 rows (10)
Row 19: inc, 8 sc, inc (12)
Row 20-22: 12 sc – 3 rows (12)
Row 23: dec, 8 sc, dec (10)
Row 24: dec, 6 sc, dec (8)
Row 25: 8 sc (8)

Now you will crochet around the piece with sc. inc inc
2 sc 01
On the corners of first row you will make a inc.
See picture 01 for more detailed description.

When you are at the end of Row 25, continue to


make 22 ch, then make a slst on the first stitch of
previous row. See picture 02.
Now you will work on rounds. See picture 03. Make
first stitch where you did the slst.
Round 26-27: 30 sc – 2 rounds (30)
Round 28: 10 sc, [3 sc, dec] x 3, 5 sc (27)
Round 29: 9 sc, [3 sc, dec] x 3, 3 sc (24)
Round 30: 9 sc, [2 sc, dec] x 3, 3 sc (21)
Round 31: 9 sc, [1 sc, dec] x 3, 3 sc (18)
Round 32: 18 sc (18) 02 03
Round 33: 13 sc, dec, 3 sc (17)
Round 34: 17 sc (17)
Round 35: 12 sc, dec, 3 sc (16)
Round 36: 16 sc (16)
Round 37: 12 sc, dec, 2 sc (15)
Round 38: 15 sc (15)
Round 39: 11 sc, [dec] x 2 (13)
Round 40: dec, 11 sc (12)
Round 41: inc, 9 sc, [inc] x 2 (15)
Round 42-43: 15 sc – 2 rounds (15)
Round 44: [3 sc, dec] x 3 (12)
Round 45: [dec] x 6 (6)
Fasten off and leave an extra long tail. Weave the 04

5
HEAD
Work with Color A.
Make 6 ch.
Rnd 1: Start on the second chain from the hook; 4 sc,
3 sc in last chain, turn and work on the opposite side
of the chain, 3 sc, inc (12)
Rnd 2: inc, 3 sc, [inc] x 3, 3 sc, [inc] x 2 (18)
Rnd 3: 18 sc (18)
Rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, [1 sc, inc] x 3, 3 sc,
[1 sc, inc] x 2 (24)
05
Rnd 5: 24 sc (24)
Rnd 6: inc, 5 sc, [inc, 2 sc] x 3, 3 sc, [inc, 2 sc] x 2
(30)
Rnd 7: 30 sc (30)
Rnd 8: 19 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 5 sc (32)
Rnd 9: 32 sc (32)
Rnd 10: 21 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 7 sc (34)
Rnd 11: 34 sc (34)
Rnd 12: 22 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 8 sc (36)
Rnd 13: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
Rnd 14: 42 sc (42)
Rnd 15: 3 sc, inc, [6 sc, inc] x 5, 3 sc (48)

Now we will mark where to place the security eyes. 06


Take a piece of yarn in another color and draw it in
the hole under the stitch. Use another piece of yarn for
the other eye.
Rnd 16: [7 sc, inc] x 3, 1 sc, mark the hole under next
stitch: 1 sc, 5 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 2 sc, mark next stitch
same way, 1 sc, 4 sc, inc (54) See picture 05.
Rnd 17-24: 54 sc – 8 rounds (54)

Now you can insert the security eyes through the hole
where you marked with yarn piece. Push in the lock
behind.
Stuff the head firmly with filling and keep doing as
you go. 07

Rnd 25: [7 sc, dec] x 6 (48)


Rnd 26: 48 sc (48)
Rnd 27: 3 sc, dec, [6 sc, dec] x 5, 3 sc (42)
Rnd 28: [5 sc, dec] x 6 (36)
Rnd 29: 2 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] x 5, 2 sc (30)
Rnd 30: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)
Rnd 31: 1 sc, dec, [2 sc, dec] x 5, 1 sc (18)
Rnd 32: [1 sc, dec] x 6 (12)
Rnd 33: [dec] x 6 (6)
Fasten off and leave a small yarn tail. Weave the yarn
tail through the front loops of each stitch and pull it
tight to close. Then weave in the yarn end. 08

6
ARMS – Make 2 Rnd 9: Crochet only on front loops: [inc] x 3, now
back to both loops: 3 sc (9)
Work with Color A. Do not stuff. Rnd 10-12: 9 sc – 3 rounds (9)
Make 4 ch. Rnd 13: [1 sc, dec] x 3 (6)
Rnd 1: Start on the second chain from the hook; 2 sc, Rnd 14: Crochet only on front loops: 2 sc, now back
3 sc in last chain, turn and work on the opposite side to both loops: 3 sc, crochet only on front loops: 1 sc
of the chain, 1 sc, inc (8) (6)
Rnd 2: 8 sc (8) Rnd 15: Crochet only on front loops: [inc] x 2, now
back to both loops: 3 sc, crochet only on front loops:
inc (9)
Right Arm
Rnd 16-18: 9 sc – 3 rounds (9)
Rnd 3: 3 sc, 1 bo, 4 sc (8)

No need to stuff with filling.


Left Arm
Rnd 3: 7 sc, 1 bo (8)
Rnd 19: [1 sc, dec] x 3 (6)
Fasten off and leave an extra long tail. Weave the
Rnd 4-6: 8 sc – 3 rounds (8)
yarn tail through the front loops of each stitch and
Rnd 7: [dec, 2 sc] x 2 (6)
pull it tight to close. Now follow the steps below how
Rnd 8: Crochet only on front loops: 3 sc, now back
to make the bended arm.
to both loops: 3 sc (6) See picture 09.

Front
loops
09
Front loops is the loops facing outside the 1. Atter fasten off, cut a long piece of the yarn. 2. Pull the yarn tail tight to close up.
piece. With a needle weave in the yarn through all the
6 front loops.

Increases (inc) Pull the thread back


from rnd 15 and forth betwen
the two parts.

Increases (inc)
from rnd 9

3. Insert the needle in the middle of the last 4. Sew the upper arm closer to lower arm by 5. Then pull out the thread at round 9 where
round, and pull it out where the increases (inc) pulling the thread back and forth between the the increases are. Sew the hand closer to
from round 15 are. parts. lower arm by pulling the thread back and forth
between the parts.

6. When done, the arm should look like this. Don't forget that the thumbs should point against each other.

7
LEG – Make 2 WATCH HOW TO MAKE BOBBLE STITCHES WITH
COLOR CHANGE ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiYk2kNfRp4&t=9s
Start with Color B.
Make 6 ch.
Rnd 1: Start on the second chain from the hook; 4 sc,
3 sc in last chain, turn and work on the opposite side
of the chain, 3 sc, inc (12)
Rnd 2: inc, 3 sc, [inc] x 3, 3 sc, [inc] x 2 (18)
Rnd 3: 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, [1 sc, inc] x 3, 3 sc,
[1 sc, inc] x 2 (24)
Rnd 4: inc, 4 sc, [2 sc, 3 sc in next st] x 3, 8 sc,
10
inc, 1 sc (32)

Change to Color A.
Use Color C for the bobble stitches (bo).
Change to Color C before closing up the stitch be-
fore and change back to Color A before closing up
the bobble stitch. See pictures 10 and 11.
Rnd 5: 5 sc, [4 sc, 1 bo] x 3, 12 sc (32)
Rnd 6-7: 32 sc – 2 rounds (32)
Rnd 8: 7 sc, [dec, 2 sc] x 2, 2 sc, [dec, 2 sc] x 2,
7 sc (28)
Rnd 9: 8 sc, [dec] x 5, 8 sc, dec (22)
Rnd 10: 7 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 8 sc (20)
Rnd 11: [dec, 3 sc] x 4 (16) 11

Stuff the foot firmly with filling. Keep filling as you go


– but fill rest of the leg lightly so it stays flat on the top.

Rnd 12: [2 sc, dec] x 4 (12)


Rnd 13-15: 12 sc – 3 rounds (12)
Rnd 16: [inc] x 2, 4 sc, [inc] x 2, 4 sc (16)
Rnd 17: 1 sc, [inc] x 2, 6 sc, [inc] x 2, 5 sc (20)
Rnd 18: 2 sc, [inc] x 2, 8 sc, [inc] x 2, 6 sc (24)
Rnd 19: 3 sc, [inc] x 2, 10 sc, [inc] x 2, 7 sc (28)
Rnd 20-22: 28 sc – 3 rounds (28)
Rnd 23: [5 sc, dec] x 4 (24)
Rnd 24: 2 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] x 3, 2 sc (20) 12

If you using security joint, place it between round 21


and 22. Note! Make sure to place it on opposite side
of each other on each leg. See pictures 12 and 13.

Rnd 25: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc (18)


Rnd 26: [1 sc, dec] x 6 (12)
Rnd 27: [dec] x 6 (6)
If you making moveable legs: Fasten off and leave a
small yarn tail. Weave the yarn tail through the front
loops of each stitch and pull it tight to close. Then
weave in the yarn end.
If you will sew the legs to the body: Leave a long tail 13
that you will use for sewing the legs to the body.
8
TAIL
Work with Color A.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: [2 sc, inc] x 2 (8)
Rnd 3: 6 sc, [inc] x 2 (10)
Rnd 4: 7 sc, [inc] x 2, 1 sc (12)
Rnd 5: 9 sc, inc, 2 sc (13)
Rnd 6: 10 sc, inc, 2 sc (14)
Rnd 7: 10 sc, inc, 3 sc (15)
Rnd 8: 11 sc, inc, 3 sc (16)
Rnd 9: 11 sc, inc, 4 sc (17) 14
Rnd 10: 12 sc, inc, 4 sc (18)
Rnd 11: 9 sc, [inc, 2 sc] x 3 (21)
Rnd 12: 10 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 3 sc (24) Where the slst are
will be placed at the
Start to stuff the tip of the tail with filling and keep tip of the tail.
doing as you go for the rest of the tail.

Rnd 13: 4 sc, [4 sc, inc] x 4 (28)


Rnd 14: 10 sc, [3 sc, inc] x 3, 6 sc (31)
Rnd 15: 7 sc, [4 sc, inc] x 4, 4 sc (35)
Rnd 16: 12 sc, [4 sc, inc] x 3, 8 sc (38)
Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail to sew to Body.
See picture 14. 15

BACK SHIELD
Work with Color B.
Make 31 ch.
Row 1: Start on the second chain from the hook;
4 slst, 8 sc, 18 hdc (30)
Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail to sew to body.
See picture 15.

9
BODY Back of body is
where the stitch
Work with Color A. marker is
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: [1 sc, inc] x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] x 5, 1 sc (24)
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: 2 sc, inc, [4 sc, inc] x 5, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
Rnd 8: 3 sc, inc, [6 sc, inc] x 5, 3 sc (48)
Rnd 9: 48 sc (48) 16
Rnd 10: [7 sc, inc] x 6 (54)
Rnd 11-15: 54 sc – 5 rounds (54)
The slip
Rnd 16: [7 sc, dec] x 6 (48) stitches (slst)
Rnd 17-18: 48 sc – 2 rounds (48) on rnd 31
will be on
the front of
If you are using security joints, insert the legs on each the body.
side of the body between rounds 11 and 12, with
23 stitches between the joint at the front of the body.
Keep the stitch marker centered in the back. See
picture 16.

Start to stuff the body firmly with filling and keep


doing as you go. 17

Rnd 19: 3 sc, dec, [6 sc, dec] x 5, 3 sc (42)


Rnd 20-21: 42 sc – 2 rounds (42)
Rnd 22: [5 sc, dec] x 6 (36)
Rnd 23-24: 36 sc – 2 rounds (36)
Rnd 25: [4 sc, dec] x 6 (30)
Rnd 26-28: 30 sc – 3 rounds (30)
Rnd 29: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)
Rnd 30: 24 sc (24)
Rnd 31: 1 ch, start on the second chain from the
hook; 3 hdc, 4 sc, 10 slst, 4 sc, 3 hdc (24)
Make a slst in the first hdc of rnd 31. Fasten off and
leave a long tail to sew the body to the head.

10
KEEP CALM
AND BE A
DINOSAUR

TIME TO
PUT ME
TOGETHER!

11
ASSEMBLY Attach the head to the body, between rounds 14 and
Attach the head crest on the head, like the picture 22 of the head. The head should be tilted down-
below. Align front of head crest with first round of wards. Also make sure the head are aligned and
the head. Before closing up the back crest, add some equal on both sides. Check all angles before you
stuffing. Tips how to attach the piece, check my insta- attach the head.
gram reel:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CarUunxJevi/

Head should
be attached
tilted down-
wards.

Now attach the tail at rounds 6 and 17. Before you


sew, pin the tail to the body and place it on a flat ta-
Give more depth to the eyes by pulling a yarn ble. If body and tail touches the table, then attach it.
between the eyes. Watch my youtube channel for
tutorial: Last, attach the back shield to the back of the body
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbvYKkVa0Z0 and tail. Place the end where the slst are at the tip of
the tail.
Sew it in a zig-zag way by drawing the needle
through the body under the shield, and then in again
through the shield.

Read more about and see how to make the legs


moveable with just yarn on page 13 and 14.
If you will sew the legs to the body. Place them
between rounds 8 and 16. Before you sew, pin both
legs to the body and place it on a flat table. If body
and legs touches the table, then attach them.

Attach the arms on each side of the body between


rounds 22 and 27. Sew them on the side as shown
below, so the arms stays close to the body.

Done!

12
MOVEABLE LEGS
How to make moveable legs:
There is two option to make moveable legs. One is with security joints and the other you can use same yarn
as you crochet with.

Pros and cons for using security joints/doll joints.


Pros = this is a great and secured way to have the legs moveable and still not risk it to come out. They sit
really steady, even better than security eyes.
Cons = It will cost little bit extra. You can buy these in many hobby stores where you can buy other parts of
doll making. Use the size after the yarn weight. Use smaller joints for thinner yarn.
Another con is that since the joints and locks are very hard pressed against each other, it’s not super smooth
to move the legs up and down. To move them, you need to grab the leg very close to the body and turn it.

Pros and cons for using just yarn.


Pros = it will not cost you any extra. The legs are also very easy to move up and down.
Cons = after a while the yarn will lose its tense. This means that thelegs can feel loose and it’s too moveable.
But the good thing about this is that you can easy just cut the yarn off and replace it with new yarn by follow
the steps on the next page again.

How to use security joints*:

One joint consists of 3 pieces. One joint, Before you insert the joint, make a big Insert the joint into the leg, from the inside.
one washer and one lock. hole with help of the hook, or something
else similar.

The “head” of the joint will be on the Insert the leg with the joint into the body. Inside the body we will now lock the joint.
inside of the leg. First insert the washer (the bigger one) into
the joint. And then insert the lock – the
one with a ribbed hole. Press it in all the
way and as much as you can. Use some
kind of tool to press it even more to make
it as secured as possible.

13
HOW TO MAKE MOVEABLE LEGS WATCH HOW TO MAKE MOVEABLE LEGS
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL:
WITH YARN: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZ_qIKPhDrI&t=33s

1. First pin the legs to the body and make 2. Insert the needle into one of the leg. (Prefera- 3. Pull the needle through the whole body and
sure that both are balanced and touching the ble to use a long doll-needle. If you don’t have out on the other side to the other leg.
ground together with body. this, use your normal needle, but be prepared
that you need to squeeze the body to reach the
needle.)

4. Pull the yarn until you have a small yarn tail 5. Now insert the needle one stitch away where 6. And then through the body again and back
left on the first leg. you pull it out. to the first leg – one stitch away from where
you first insert it.

7. And then in again on exact same place 8. Through the whole body again, and out 9. Take the yarn tails on each side and pull
where you insert the needle on step 2. again on the same place as step 3. away carefully (tighten up). Don’t pull too much
You will now have a yarn tail on each side of so body looks squeezed, but not too loose
the leg. You can now remove the needle. either. Pull as much as needed.

10. Take out the pins. Check that the legs are 11. Use a normal-size needle and make a knot 12. Pull the yarn to you have a small ring. Insert
moving good and not to loose or too tight. to secure the yarn. Insert the needle through a the needle into the ring. Pull the yarn all the way
loop. and tie the knot. Weave in the yarn into the leg
and cut it. Make the same on the other leg.

13. Taadaa! Now you can move the


legs up and down as you wish. You can
make same steps for the arms.

One suggestion is to use a button on


each side of the leg. Insert the needle
through the button, starting from
step 2. You can, in step 10,
tie a knot behind the button.

14
YOU DID IT! NOW, LET THE
WORLD HEAR YOUR...
RAW W R !

Katy Parry is done!


Please share your
GREAT work,
but don’t forget to
tag me on Instagram:
@handmade_by_halime
– in other channels
use hashtag:
#handmadebyhalime

Thank you!
Yours sincerely,
Halime

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