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Crochet Clownfish – Amigurumi

Size: 4” / 11 cm long (without tail) when made with the indicated yarn.

Material:
• 3 different yarns calling for 5,5 mm hook in orange, white and black
• Size 3.5 mm crochet hook
• 2 black safety eyes (9 mm)
• Poly-Fil Fiberfill stuffing
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:
• chain (ch)• magic ring (mr)
• single crochet (sc)
• increase (inc)
• invisible decrease (dec)
• slip stitch (sl st)
• half double crochet (hdc)
• double crochet (dc)

The head and the body:

Work in rounds, do not turn unless specified. If needed, use a stitch marker for the first stitch of each round.

With the orange yarn and the 3.5 mm hook


Round 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
Round 2: inc 6 times. (12)
Round 3: [sc in next st, inc in next st] x6. (18)
Round 4: [sc in next 2 st, inc in next st] x6. (24)
Round 5: [sc in next 3 st, inc in next st] x6. (30)
Rounds 6 to 7: sc in all st. (30)
Round 8: [sc in next 4 st, inc in next st] x6. (36)

Place safety eyes between rows 4 and 5, spaced by 5 st.

Change for the white yarn:


Rounds 9 to 12: sc in all st. (36)

Change for the orange yarn:


Round 13: sc in all st. (36)

Round 14: [sc in next 4 st, dec in next st] x6. (30)
Rounds 15 to 16: sc in all st. (30)
Change for the white yarn:
Round 17: sc in all st. (30)
Round 18: [sc in next 3 st, dec in next st] x6. (24)
Round 19: sc in all st. (24)

Change for the orange yarn:


Round 20: sc in all st. (24)
Round 21: [sc in next 2 st, dec in next st] x6. (18)
Round 22: sc in all st. (18)

Change for the white yarn:


Rounds 23 to 24: sc in all st. (18)
Round 25: [sc in next st, dec in next st] x6. (12)
Round 26: dec all st. (6)

Close the body and leave a long tail to attach the caudal fin.

Caudal and pelvic fins :

Make 3 identical fins as follow:

Starting with the black yarn and the 3.5 mm hook


Row 1: ch 7. (7)
Row 2: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in the 5 next st. (6)

Change for the orange yarn:


Row 3: Turn, ch 1. 1 sc in the 6 st. (6)
Row 4: Turn, ch 1. 1 sc in the first 2 st, 1 dec, 1 sc in the last 2 st. (5)
Row 5: Turn, ch 1. 1 sc in the 5 st. (5)
Row 6: Turn, ch 1. 1 sc in the 5 st. (5)
Row 7: Turn, ch 1. 1 dec, 1 sc in the next st, 1 dec. (3)

Attach one fin to the back of the body (it will be the caudal fin). Attach the two other fins each side of the body between Rounds
12 and 13.

Dorsal fin:

Make 1 dorsal fin as follow:

Starting with the orange yarn and the 3.5 mm hook


Row 1: ch 10. (10)
Row 2: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in the 8 next st. (9)
Row 3: Turn, ch 1. 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc in the next 2 st, 1 hdc in the next 2 st, 1 sc. (9)

Change for the black yarn:


Row 4: Turn, ch 1. 1 sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 st, 1 sc in the next 2 st, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. (9)
Row 5: 1 sc in the next 2 st (on rows 2 and 3 – you will have a total of 11 black st.)

Attach the dorsal fin at the top center of the body. I placed the front of the fin between rows 12 and 13.

Congratulations, your fish is ready! If you made it, please be sure to tag @natalinacraft on social media with the hashtag
#natalinacraft, I would love to see your work!
TEDDY BEAR
Materials:

 Yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby: main color (1/4 skein), color for skirt (a little yarn)
 4.0 mm crochet hook
 Safety eyes
 Black embroidery thread or fine yarn
 Sewing needle and scissors
 Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
F.o. = finish off
( ) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
( ) * 6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Free crochet plush teddy bear pattern


Legs-body-head

Legs (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) * 3 (9)
R 3: 9 sc
R 4: 9 sc, sl st
F.o.

Don’t cut the yarn when you’ll finish the second leg!

Body-head
From the second leg: 3 ch, join with the first leg.
R 5: 9 sc on the 1st leg, 3 sc in 3 ch, 9 sc on the 2nd leg, 3 sc in 3 ch (opposite side) (24)
R 6-7: 24 sc (2 rows)
R 8: BLO 24 sc
R 9: 24 sc
R 10: (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18)
R 11: 18 sc
R 12: (1 sc, dec) * 6 (12)
Stuff with fiberfill.
Continue crocheting the head:
R 13: (inc) * 12 (24)
R 14: (3 sc, inc) * 6 (30)
R 15-17: 30 sc (3 rows)
R 18: (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24)
Insert safety eyes between R 17 and R 18.
R 19: (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18)
Stuff with fiberfill.
R 20: (1 sc, dec) * 6 (12)
R 21: (dec) * 6 (6)
F.o.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2-5: 6 sc (4 rows)
Fold top of arm flat and 3 sc through both sides across.
F.o. and leave a yarn tail about 15 cm long.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) * 6 (12)
F.o. and leave a yarn tail about 15 cm long.
Tail
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) * 3 (9)
R 3: (1 sc, dec) * 3 (6)
F.o. and leave a yarn tail about 15 cm long.

Skirt
Join yarn to the front loop of 1st st on R 8 of the body.
R 1: FLO (3 ch, 1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) – repeat to the end of row
F.o.

Bow
Make 2 ch.
In the 2nd chain from hook: 2 ch, 2 dc, 2 ch, sl st, 2 ch, 2 dc, 2 ch, sl st
F.o. and leave a yarn tail about 25-30 cm long.
Wrap the middle of the bow with yarn a couple of times and sew to the head.

Assembly
Sew the arms, ears and tail to the body.
Embroider a nose and eyebrows using embroidery thread or fine yarn.
BUNNY
Materials:

 Yarn: YarnArt Dolche (1 skein)


 Hook size: 3.0 mm
 13 mm sewing eyes
 YarnArt Jeans yarn for a nose and eye brows
 Thin thread in the tone of yarn for sewing details together
 Satin ribbon for a bow (2 cm wide and 50 cm long)
 Stitich marker
 Tapestry needle
 Scissors
 Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
F.o. = finish off
( ) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
( ) * 6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Free amigurumi plush bunny pattern


You can make a magic circle from a cotton yarn and then sc from a plush yarn in mc.

Head
R 1: 12 sc in mc (12)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) * 6 (18)
R 3: (2 sc, inc) * 6 (24)
R 4: (3 sc, inc) * 6 (30)
R 5: (4 sc, inc) * 6 (36)
R 6: (5 sc, inc) * 6 (42)
R 7: (6 sc, inc) * 6 (48)
R 8-14: 48 sc (7 rows)
R 15: (6 sc, dec) * 6 (42)
R 16: (5 sc, dec) * 6 (36)
R 17: (4 sc, dec) * 6 (30)
R 18: (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24)
R 19: (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18)
F.o.

Sew on the eyes between R 10 and R 11 at the distance of 14 st from each other.

Embroider a nose and eye brows.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) * 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) * 6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc) * 6 (24)
R 5-8: 24 sc ( 4 rows)
R 9: (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18)
R 10-11: 18 sc (2 rows)
R 12: (1 sc, dec) * 6 (12)
R 13: 12 sc
F.o.
Legs and body

Legs (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) * 6 (12)
R 3-8: 12 sc (6 rows)
F.o.

Don’t cut the yarn when you’ll finish the second leg!

From the second leg: 3 ch, join with the first leg, put a stitch marker.
Continue crocheting the body in the round:
R 9: 12 sc on the 1st leg, 3 inc in 3 ch, 12 sc on the 2nd leg, 3 inc in 3 ch (opposite side) (36)
Stuff as you go.
R 10-15: 36 sc (6 rows)
R 16: (4 sc, dec) * 6 (30)
R 17: 30 sc
R 18: (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24)
R 19: 24 sc
R 20: (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18)
R 21: 18 sc
F.o.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 9 sc in mc (9)
R 2-8: 9 sc (7 rows)
Stuff with fiberfill.
Fold top of the arm flat and sc through both sides across
F.o.

Tail
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) * 6 (12)
R 3-4: 12 sc (2 rows)
R 5: (dec) * 6 (6)
F.o.
MERMAID
Materials:

 Yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce


 Yarn for hair: Alize Cotton Gold
 Hook size: 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm
 11 mm safety eyes
 Thin thread in the tone of yarn for sewing arms and ears
 Brown embroidery floss for eye brows
 Pink embroidery floss for mouth
 Sewing needle and scissors
 Dry pastel crayon for cheeks
 Fiberfill
Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
F.o. = finish off
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
(…) *6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Free amigurumi Mermaid doll pattern


Head and body are crocheted as a single part.

Start crochet the head.


With white yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) *6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) *6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc) *6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc) *6 (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc) *6 (36)
R 7: (5 sc, inc) *6 (42)
R 8-12: 42 sc (5 rows)
Insert safety eyes between R 11 and R 12 at the distance of 6 sc from each other.
R 13: (5 sc, dec) *6 (36)
R 14: 36 sc
R 15: (4 sc, dec) *6 (30)
R 16: (3 sc, dec) *6 (24)
R 17: (2 sc, dec) *6 (18)
R 18: (1 sc, dec) *6 (12)
R 19: 12 sc
R 20: (2 sc, inc) *4 (16)
Change to yellow yarn:
R 21-22: 16 sc (2 rows)
R 23: (7 sc, inc) *2 (18)
Change to white yarn:
R 24-25: 18 sc (2 rows)
Change to blue yarn:
R 26: (5 sc, inc) *3 (21)
R 27: BLO (6 sc, inc) *3 (24), FLO inc in every st to the end of row
R 28-29: 24 sc (2 rows)
R 30: (6 sc, dec) *3 (21)
R 31: 21 sc
R 32: (5 sc, dec) *3 (18)
R 33: 18 sc
R 34: (4 sc, dec) *3 (15)
R 35: 15 sc
R 36: (3 sc, dec) *3 (12)
R 37: 12 sc
R 38: (2 sc, dec) *3 (9)
R 39: 9 sc
R 40: (1 sc, dec) *3 (6)
R 41: 6 sc
F.o.

Arms (make 2)
With white yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: 6 sc
R 3: 5 sc, 3 dc in one st (6)
R 4-11: 6 sc (8 rows)
R 12: 3 sc only
Fold top of arm flat and 3 sc through both sides across.
F.o.

Fins (make 2)
With blue yarn:
Make 5 ch.
R 1: In the 2nd ch from hook: 4 sc, 1 turning chain (4)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) *2, 1 turning chain (6)
R 3: 6 sc, 1 turning chain
R 4: (1 sc, dec) *2, 1 turning chain (4)
R 5: 4 sc, 1 turning chain
R 6: (dec)*2, 1 turning chain (2)
R 7: 2 sc, 1 turning chain
R 8: dec, 1 turning chain (1)
Make sc around edges of fin.
F.o.

Sew the fins to the tail.

Ears (make 2)
With white yarn:
R 1: 4 sc in mc, sl st
F.o.

Hair
Cut the Alize Cotton Gold yarn into pieces. Fold the piece in half and draw its center through the stitch of the head with your
hook, making a loop. Pick up two strands, draw them through the loop and tighten.
Add yarn piecies for hair at the distance of one row and one stitch from each other. On the top of the head add yarn piecies in
every row and in every stitch.
TURTLE
Materials:

 Yarn: Alize Cotton Gold (100 g/330 m) color #385 (green), #55 (white); YarnArt Jeans (50 g/160 m) color #40 (brown), #54
(blue)
 Hook size: 2.0 mm
 6 mm black beads
 Sewing needle and scissors
 Yarn marker
 Black, white and pink yarn for embroidering
 Two 6 mm buttons
 Satin ribbons
 Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
F.o. = finish off
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
(…)*6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Free amigurumi turtle tutorial


Head
With green yarn:
Stuff as you go.
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) *6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) *6 (18)
R 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
R 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
R 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)
R 9-16: 48 sc (8 rows)
R 17: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42)
R 18: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
R 19: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30)
R 20: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
R 21: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5, 1 sc (18)
F.o.
Body
With green yarn:
Stuff as you go.
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) *6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) *6 (18)
R 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
R 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
R 8-11: 42 sc (4 rows)
Change to white yarn:
R 12: 42 sc
R 13: BLO 42 sc
Change to blue yarn (don’t cut white yarn):
R 14: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
R 15: 36 sc
Change to white yarn (don’t cut blue yarn):
R 16: 36 sc
R 17: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30)
Change to blue yarn (don’t cut white yarn):
R 18-19: 30 sc (2 rows)
Change to white yarn:
R 20: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
R 21: 24 sc
Change to gteen yarn:
R 22: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5, 1 sc (18)
R 23: 18 sc
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) *6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) *6 (18)
Change to green yarn:
R 4: BLO 18 sc
R 5: 18 sc
R 6: (dec, 7 sc)*2 (16)
R 7: 16 sc
R 8: (dec, 6 sc)*2 (14)
R 9-11: 14 sc (3 rows)
R 12: (dec, 5 sc)*2 (12)
R 13-15: 12 sc (3 rows)
R 16: (dec, 4 sc)*2 (10)
R 17: (dec, 3 sc)*2 (8)
Stuff 3⁄4 full firmly. The upper part of the leg stuff gently.
Pull off and close the hole with needle.
F.o.
Arms (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) *6 (12)
R 3: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15)
Change to green yarn:
R 4: BLO 15 sc
R 5: 15 sc
R 6: dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc (13)
R 7: 13 sc
R 8: dec, 5 sc, dec, 4 sc (11)
R 9-11: 11 sc (3 rows)
R 12: dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc (9)
R 13-15: 9 sc (3 rows)
Crochet 4 sc or more to have the color change place on the inside side of arm.
Stuff 1⁄2 full.
Fold top of arm flat and 4 sc through both sides across.
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Mark the eye points:


Points #1 and #2 are located between R 12 and R 13 at the distance of 8 stitches from each other.
Points #3 and #4 are located at the distance of 1 stitch from point #1 and point #2.

Take a long needle with green thread.


Insert the needle from the neck hole and draw it out the point #1, than insert the needle in the point #3 and draw it out the neck.
Pull slightly.
Repeat 1 time more.

Make the same for the second eye.


Insert the needle from the neck hole and draw it out the point #2, than insert the needle in the point #4 and draw it out the neck.
Pull slightly.
Repeat 1 time more.

Pull slightly the thread ends and make a knot.

Sew black beads for eyes. Embroider whites of the eyes with white yarn.
Embroider eyebrows with black yarn.

Embroider cheeks with pink yarn under eyes between R 14 and R 15.

Sew the head to the body. Stuff firmly the neck area. A firmly stuffed neck will hold the head up.
Attach legs to the body between R 6 and R 7 of the body using green yarn.

View video tutorial here >>> How to attach jointed legs on amigurumi.
Skirt
Attach white yarn to the R 12 of the body.
Crochet in the round.
R 1: FLO 3 ch, 2 dc in every st to the end of row (84)
R 2-3: 3 ch, 84 dc (2 rows)
R 4: 1 ch, 84 sc
F.o.

Sew arms to the body between R 20 and R 21.

Sew two buttons on the body for decoration.


Bottom of the shell
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) *6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) *6 (18)
R 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
R 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
Sl st. F.o.

Shell
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) *6 (12)
R 3: BLO (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
R 4: BLO 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24)
R 5:BLO (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 6: BLO 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
R 7: BLO (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
R 8-9: BLO 42 sc (2 rows)
Don’t cut the yarn. Continue crocheting:

Put two parts of the shell together with inner part (wrong side to wrong side) and crochet through both parts 42 sс. Put some
fiberfill inside the shell before you finish.
Don’t cut the yarn.
Straps
Make 20 ch. Count 10 stitches and join the end of the chain to 11th st with sl st.
F.o.

From the beginning of the first chain count 8 stitches and join brown yarn to 8th st.
Make 20 ch. Count 10 stitches and join the end of the chain to 11th st with sl st.
F.o.

Panama hat
With white yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) *6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
R 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
R 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
R 8: BLO 42 sc
R 9: 42 sc
R 10: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)
R 11: 48 sc
R 12: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
R 13: 54 sc
R 14: FLO (2 sc, inc)*18 (72)
R 15: 72 sc
R 16: (11 sc, inc)*6 (78)
R 17: 6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc)*5, 6 sc (84)
R 18-19: 84 sc (2 rows)
F.o.

Sew satin bands to back loops of R 13.


amigurumi octopus pattern
03/08/2022 UPDATE: There’s a new version of this pattern with new photos available on my website now: Mini Octopus Pattern.

This simple amigurumi octopus is quite quick to crochet. Make yours with a plain face, or add a little takochu mouth. They’re
stackable too, so you can make a whole tower of octopi.

Here’s the free pattern:

Skill level: easy-intermediate


You’ll need to know how to crochet in the round, and make single crochet and half-double crochet stitches.

Size:
Using medium (worsted) weight yarn and a 3.5 mm (E) crochet hook, your octopus will be about 4 cm / 1.6" wide. You can adjust
the size by using thicker or thinner yarn.

Materials & tools:


• medium (worsted) weight yarn
• 3.5 mm (E) crochet hook
• small amount of stuffing
• 5 mm or 6 mm black beads for eyes (or safety eyes)
• black thread for sewing
• yarn needle and sewing needle

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
sl st = slip stitch

Pattern:
The octopus body is worked in the round. Do not join the rounds, except where specified in the pattern.

Body:
Start with a magic loop, or chain 2 and work in the first chain.

1. 6 sc in a circle.
2. 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)
3. (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 6 times. (24 sc)
5-8. sc in each st around, for 4 rounds. (24 sc per round)
9. (sc2tog, sc in next st) 8 times. (16 sc)
Join round with a sl st.
10. Chain 1. Working in back loops only, (sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next st) 4 times. (12 sc)
This creates a small ridge, that you’ll use later when adding the legs.
11. Skip the ch1 that you made at the beginning of the previous round.
(sc2tog) 6 times. (6 sc)

Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff the octopus body, and sew up the hole.
Legs:
The octopus legs are made by crocheting into the row of 16 ridged stitches left on the body after round 10.

Holding the body with the top of the head facing downwards, join your yarn with a slip stitch. You can join in any one of the ridge
stitches.

1. (5 hdc in next st, sl st in next st) 8 times. Join round with a sl st, and finish off.

You should have 8 little octopus legs now.

Takochu mouth (optional):


Start with a magic loop, or ch 2 and work in the first ch.
1. 6 sc in a circle. Join with a sl st, and finish off.

Face
For the plain face (purple octopus), sew the eyes onto your amigurumi’s head. The eyes should be between the 7th and 8th
rounds of the body, and about 5 stitches apart. Embroider a small black mouth.

For the takochu face (blue octopus), first sew the mouth in place. It should be roughly in line with the 6th and 7th rounds of the
body. Sew the eyes on either side of the mouth, between the 6th and 7th rounds of the body.

Takochu!

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