Diploma in

Makeup, Nails
and Beauty
Advanced Skincare
Identify the difference between serums and ampoules
Understand a physical and a chemical exfoliant
Classify the different types of masks

Objectives
 Recap

Make up Pre- cleanser Cleanser Toner

remover
 Recap

Eye cream Day cream Night cream SPF

Serums and
ampoules
Serums and ampoules
Serums

Target specific skin conditions

High concentration of active ingredients

Thinner consistency

Larger bottle
 • Super serum
• Single dosage
Ampoules • Large concentrations
of specific ingredients
• Easily absorbed
• Reduced oxidation
 Daily
Water based serums

Tip Nightly
Oil based serum
Application
• Apply to clean skin
• Apply in gentle upward gliding strokes
• Apply before a mask or moisturiser
Exfoliation
Exfoliation
Reasons for exfoliation

Prevents blockages in the follicle

Brighten the skin and improve

the skin tone

Target certain skin conditions

What is exfoliation
• Desquamation- the natural shedding of the skin cells
• 28 days for cell turnover to occur
• Build up of dead skin cells results in blocked follicles
and breakouts
 How often should you exfoliate?

Sensitive skin type

Oilier skin type Dry skin type Start weekly and
Exfoliate more often Exfoliate less often build up more
frequently
When should I exfoliate?

Evening time
Photosensitisers
SPF

Throughout the year

Exfoliate less often in winter
Exfoliate more often in summer
Types of exfoliants

Physical

Chemical
Physical exfoliants
• Granules, natural beads, crushed seeds
or brushes
• Granules are not completely rounded,
so can cause microtears on the skin
• Can worsen irritations and
inflammations associated with skin
conditions
• Better used on thicker areas of the body
 Exfoliating
cleansing brushes

Over exfoliation

Hygiene

Avoid on sensitive skin

Chemical exfoliant
• Ingredients which break the bonds
holding the dead skin cells together
• Gentle on the skin
 Alpha hydroxy Beta hydroxy Enzymes
acids acids

Types of
chemical
exfoliants
Alpha hydroxy acids
• Water soluble
• Gentle on the skin
• Can be used on sensitive skin types
Alpha hydroxy acids

Lactic acid Tartaric acid Mandelic acid

Alpha hydroxy acids

Malic acid

Glycolic acid

Citric acid
 • Lactic acid mildest form of AHA
• Glycolic acid strongest AHA
Recap
Beta hydroxy acids
• Oil soluble
• Salicylic acid
• Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial
 Water soluble
Dissolves in water
Tip Oil soluble
Dissolves in oil
Enzymatic exfoliant

Papaya Pineapple
Papain Bromelain
If you can handle it, it’s a tingle

If I cannot handle it, it’s burning the

skin, and needs to be removed
immediately
Masks
 Remove make up
Oil based pre-cleanser
Cleanser
Toner
Exfoliation

What’s next?
 Masking the skin

Sheet masks Cream masks

Treat specific skin Hydrates and deeply
conditions nourishes the skin
Easy to apply and remove Easy to apply and remove
All skin types Normal to dry skin type
 Contains kaolin
Absorbs excess oils
or sulphur

Clay mask

Detoxifies the skin Oily skin type

 Which skin type would benefit
from a clay mask?

A. Dry
Question B. Sensitive
C. Oily
D. All of the above
Masking the skin

Gel masks
Cooling on the skin
Hydrates and repairs the skin
All skin types

Sleep masks
Contains rich nourishing oils
Light in texture
All skin types
Case study
 Tight skin in the mornings
Oilier skin later in the afternoon
Breakouts and inflammation
Flaking on the cheek area
Larger pores on the nose and chin
What skin type?

Combination skin
Current routine:
• Morning and evening cleansing gel
• Morning and evening astringent
• Same moisturiser day and night
• Exfoliates weekly with a scrub
• Masks once a month with a sheet mask
Cleanser: Exfoliator:

A. Cleansing gel A. Lactic acid

B. Cleansing lotion
B. Scrub

C. Cleansing cream
C. Glycolic acid

Toner:
Mask:
A. Freshener
A. Cream
B. Toner
B. Clay
C. Astringent
 Cleansing gel

Cleanser
Cleansing lotion
 Toner

Toner Freshener
Exfoliator

Lactic acid
 Mask

Cream Clay
 Moisturiser

Day cream Night cream SPF

 Recap

Serums and ampoules Exfoliators Masks

Challenge
Complete a full weekly routine
including mask and exfoliation
Lesson assignment