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Procedure

1.) Bring the cylinders out of the moisture room, keeping them covered with wet burlap to keep
them moist. Check the cylinders over for defects (holes, cracks, crumbliness) as you set them
on the table, use your straight edge and nail to check for planeness, and set the ones with
ends that are not plane aside to be saw cut.

(Edra)

You will want to look at the perpendicularity of the cylinder as well, to make sure it does not depart
from a vertical axis by more than half a degree. If you want to break cylinders uncapped, they must
be plane within 0.002 inches. Most cylinders don't meet this requirement, so you'll want to either
cap them with sulfur or gypsum paste (ASTM C17), or unbonded neoprene caps (ASTM C1231)._
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2. Measure the diameter of each cylinder twice, in the center of each cylinder at 90 degree angles.
Make sure that your two diameters are not off from each other by more than two percent, or a test
on that cylinder would be considered invalid. With the average diameter, calculate the surface area of
each cylinder, using pi to 5 significant digits (3.1416):

(Justin)

Diameter / 2 = Radius

Area of the cylinder face = Pi * Radius * Radius

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3. Make sure that the bearing surfaces of the machine are clean and free of debris, and if you are
using unbonded caps, check the cleanliness of your neoprene caps. You should have a record at your
break station of the number of cylinders that have been broken on those particular caps.

(Edra)

Discard the caps and put new one in the retaining rings if there are large cracks or gouges in them, or if
you have broken over 100 cylinders on those caps. It is also recommended that you flip the caps at 50
cylinders.

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4. Put the neoprene caps on the ends of your cylinder, and check to make sure they fit right and are
plane and level. Place the specimen on the lower bearing block (or on a centered spacer, if breaking a
4x8 cylinder) and align it with the upper bearing block, using the rings on the bottom block to center
it.

(Justin)

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5. Zero out the machine, and then apply a load at full advance until you get to about 10% of the
estimated load. A good spot is around 11000 lbs for a 6x12 cylinder breaking at 4000 psi. Remember
that psi is load divided by the area, so you could calculate this for any size cylinder and any specified
strength. Put the machine on hold and check the cylinder's alignment with your carpenter's square,
making sure it doesn't depart from vertical by more than 0.5 degrees.

(Edra)

If everything is good, proceed to the next step, but if the cylinder is off center, remove the load and
readjust the position of the cylinder. A bubble level can help you tell if it's not aligned properly.

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6. You can now apply load to the cylinder. It is permissible to go faster than the recommended rate of
about 28-42 psi/second for the first half of loading. Switch to a metered advance around 50% of the
estimated strength of the cylinder. This will look like an increase of 1000 lbs/second for a 6x12
cylinder, and 500 lbs/second for a 4x8 cylinder.

(Justin)

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7. Don't mess with the loading rate after the halfway point, as the cylinder approaches its peak load.
The cylinder will hit a peak, then drop. If it drops slightly, the load may begin to increase again, so let
it go until the load is decreasing steadily and you can see clear evidence of a forming fracture pattern,
and then turn the lever back to the off position.

(Edra)

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8. Pull the cylinder out of the machine, and then remove the caps. Carry it over to your wheelbarrow
and remove the wrap, letting the pieces fall into the wheelbarrow. Determine the type of fracture and
then write down the load and the type of fracture. Calculate the strength of the cylinder, reporting it
to the nearest 10 psi:

(Justin)

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Strength in psi = load in pounds / area in square inches

Cylinder Fracture Types