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HyaCare® Filler CL MB

The topical wrinkle smoother

Evonik Active Ingredients

1
HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Benefits & Claims

Before application 15 min after application

HyaCare® Filler CL MB

• Instantly fills fine lines & wrinkles

• Topical alternative to injectables

• Thoroughly hydrates the skin

• Smoothens skin surface

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Properties & Features

HyaCare® Filler CL MB is
• based on a unique, cross-linked polysaccharide
• made from very pure, fermentation-derived hyaluronic acid
• a W/O emulsion containing super-absorbing spherical particles
• preservative free
• Recommended usage level: 0.5 – 5%

INCI:
Aqua, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer,
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Sodium
Isostearate

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Unique and patented cross-linking process

Emulsion droplets

Cross-linking

Spherical HyaCare® Filler CL MB particles

The average particle size distribution of HyaCare® Filler CL MB is approx. 700 nm.

Particle size distribution


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HyaCare® Filler CL MB …

In vitro Ex vivo/In vivo In vivo


studies studies studies

…provides superior water-binding …accumulates in lines & … hydrates the skin


properties wrinkles and fills fine lines & …instantly fills fine lines &
…shows increased stability against wrinkles wrinkles
enzymatic degradation …smoothens skin surface

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vitro - Water uptake test

t = 0 min

Addition of water to Water is not


the HyaCare® Filler taken up by a
CL MB emulsion hyaluronic acid
leads to water uptake W/O emulsion
t = 30 min

____20 µm___

HyaCare® Filler CL MB particles have super-absorbing properties and show superior water binding.

Test Design
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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vitro enzymatic degradation – Test design

Method:
• Measurement of enzymatic
cleavage by hyaluronidase
Intact HA, %
CL-HA, % • Photometrically
(HyaCare® Filler CL MB )
quantification by
determination of released
reducing sugars

HyaCare® Filler CL MB is stable against enzymatic degradation.

Test Design
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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Ex vivo/ In vivo evaluation - Test results of instant wrinkle filling

Ex vivo fluorescently labelled In vivo using 5% HyaCare® Filler CL MB


HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Start After 1h

HyaCare® Filler CL MB accumulates in lines & wrinkles and fills fine lines & wrinkles topically.

Test formulation #34 Test Design


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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vivo evaluation – Test design

▪ Number of volunteers: 16
▪ Application: O/W emulsion with 0.1% HyaCare®
▪ O/W emulsion with 2.5% HyaCare® Filler CL MB
▪ On inner forearm
▪ Selected time points: After 2 h
▪ Analysis: Corneometer
Visioscan VC 98

▪ Observed activity: Skin moisturization


Skin surface

Test formulation #32


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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vivo evaluation – Test results

Skin moisturization Skin surface

HyaCare® Filler CL MB thoroughly hydrates the skin and smoothens skin surface by reducing number & depth of
wrinkles. ®
Remark: The tested concentrations of HyaCare & HyaCare® Filler CL MB contain the same amount of hyaluronic acid

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vivo „long“ lasting wrinkle filling – Test design

Number of volunteers: 11 (18 test fields per formulation)


Application: O/W emulsion with 1.0%, 2.0% & 5.0% HyaCare® Filler CL MB
On inner forearm
Selected time points: After 1 and 6 h
Analysis: Visioscan VC 98
Observed activity: Skin roughness parameters
Skin surface

Please note: In some graphs within this Technical Information the product name without the 'MB' suffix appears. The product remains
unchanged, just the name was adapted during a sustainability project.

Test formulation #33


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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vivo „long“ lasting wrinkle filling – Test results

Improvement after 1h with Improvement of roughness still after 6 hours with


> 1% HyaCare® Filler CL MB > 2% HyaCare® Filler CL MB

HyaCare® Filler CL MB smoothens skin surface even at low concentrations for up to 6 h.

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vivo evaluation of instant effect on wrinkles – Test design

▪ Application: O/W cream with 5% HyaCare® Filler CL MB


On face
▪ Selected time points: After 15 min & 1h
▪ Analysis: Photo

Test formulation #34


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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vivo evaluation of instant effect on wrinkles – Test result (1)

Before application 15 min after application

HyaCare® Filler CL MB instantly fills fine lines & wrinkles.

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vivo evaluation of instant effect on wrinkles – Test result (2)

Before application 1h after application

HyaCare® Filler CL MB smoothens skin surface.

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Formulation Hints

Recommended usage concentration: 0.5 – 5%

Preparation of an O/W-Emulsion (Cream or Lotion):


Due to agglomeration of the crosslinked Hyaluronic Acid particles at elevated temperatures HyaCare Filler CL should not be
added to the hot oil phase. We recommend to add the HyaCare Filler CL during the cooling process at 60-40°C.
If high concentrations of HyaCare® Filler CL MB are used (4 – 5%), it increases the viscosity of the O/W emulsion. In this
case, the viscosity can be adjusted by decreasing the concentration of consistency enhancers like fatty alcohols (TEGO ®
Alkanol 16, 1618 or 18) and glyceryl stearate (TEGIN® M Pellets).

Preparation of a W/O-Emulsion (Cream or Lotion):


The W/O emulsion is prepared as usual. At the end of the production HyaCare® Filler CL MB is added.

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Anti-Wrinkle Firming Cream (MM 224/6)
Guideline formulation

Phase Ingredients w/w% Preparation:

A TEGO® Care PSC 3 (Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate) 3.00 1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 85°C.

Stearyl Alcohol 1.30 2. Add phase A to phase B with stirring1).

TEGIN® M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) 1.20 3. Homogenise.


4. Cool with gentle stirring.
TEGOSOFT® APM (PPG-3 Myristyl Ether) 8.50
5. Add phase C and D below 40 °C.
TEGOSOFT® OS (Ethylhexyl Stearate) 6.00
1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be
TEGOSOFT® OER (Oleyl Erucate) 5.00 added without stirring.
SPHINGOKINE® NP (Caprooyl Phytosphingosine) 0.10
B HyaCare® 50 (Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid ) 0.10
Glycerin 3.00
Water 68.60
C Keltrol CG-SFT (Xanthan Gum) 0.20
D HyaCare® Filler CL MB 3.00
Z Preservative, Perfume q.s.

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Recovery Boost Eye Refresher for man(CD 1009/18)
Guideline formulation

Phase Ingredients w/w% Preparation:

A TEGOSOFT® DC (Decyl Cocoate) 3.00 1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 80 °C.

Octyldodecanol 2.00 2. Add phase A to phase B with stirring1).

TEGOSOFT® SH (Stearyl Heptanoate) 2.00 3. Homogenize.


4. Cool with gentle stirring.
TEGOSOFT® MM (Myristyl Myristate) 0.50
5. Add phase C, D and E below 40 °C.
Frescolate ML (Menthyl Lactate) 0.50
6. Cool down with gentle stirring.
B B TEGO® Care CG 90 (Cetearyl Glucoside) 1.00
1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be
TEGO® Pep 4-17 (Tetrapeptide-21; Glycerin; Butylene Glycol;
1.50 added without stirring..
Aqua )
TEGO® Carbomer 750 HD (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
0.10
Crosspolymer)
Glycerin 3.00

Keltrol CG-SFT (Xanthan Gum) 0.10

Water 83.30

C TEGO® Arjuna S (Terminalia arjuna extract; Pentylene Glycol) 1.00

D HyaCare® Filler CL MB 2.00

E Sodium Hydroxide (10 % in water) q.s.

Z Preservative, Perfume q.s.

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HyaCare® Lip Filler (AS 1897-3)
Guideline formulation

Phase Ingredients w/w% Preparation:

A Octyldodecanol 15.00 1. Heat phase A to approx. 80 -85 °C until the waxes are completely melted.

TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 10.00 2. Cool down to 64 °C while stirring.

TEGOSOFT® OER (Oleyl Erucate) 2.00 3. Add phase B and C and mix shortly.
4. Mould the mixture at 60-62 °C.
TEGOSOFT® MM (Myristyl Myristate) 5.00
5. Cool down the mould to -15 °C and stay for 15-35 min.
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 32.20
6. Demould and pack.
Cremerlin PURA (Olus (Vegetable) Oil) 10.00
BW Ester BW 67 (Stearyl Beeswax; Behenyl Beeswax) 6.50
Kahlwax 1899 (Ozokerite) 6.00
Kahlwax 8104 (Cera Alba) 5.00
Kahlwax 2039L (Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax) 3.00
B Tocopherol 0.10
Perfume 0.20
C HyaCare® Filler CL MB 5.00

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Your benefits at a glance

HyaCare® Filler CL MB : Possible applications:

• Instantly fills fine lines & wrinkles • Anti-wrinkle eye care

• Topical alternative to injectables • Skin plumping facial serum

• Thoroughly hydrates the skin • Special care for expression lines

• Smoothens skin surface • Intense moisturizing skin care

• Color cosmetics (lip care, foundations)

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21
EVONIK

Especially concerning Active Ingredients


This product information is not intended to provide legal or regulatory advice about product uses or claims in any jurisdiction
and should not be relied upon for such guidance (especially in the United States, Canada, and Mexico). Since global
regulatory requirements differ, parties accessing this information are solely responsible for determining whether the products
and/or claims comply with applicable local laws and regulations, including but not limited to import and export regulations.
Please contact your local Evonik representative for more product information. Evonik assumes no liability for any use of our
products that is not in compliance with the requirements of the country of the user.

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Glossary

▪ CL-HA: cross-linked hyaluronic acid

▪ MTT-assay: Is a cell culture test & standard colometric assay for measuring cell viability based on mitochondrial activity.
Yellow MTT (3-(4,5-Dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide, a tetrazole) is reduced to purple formazan in
living cells.

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Particle Size Distribution

16
Method:
14
▪ Detection by SPOS (single particle
optical sensing; lower and upper limits 12
of measurement are 0,5 and 400 µm,

% (number weighted)
respectively) 10

▪ Microsope image of dispersion: 8

6
7
8
0
2
4
6
9
2
6
1
6
2
0
0,
0,
0,
1,
1,
1,
1,
1,
2,
2,
3,
3,
4,
5,
d / µm
Back #4
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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Water uptake test – Test design

▪ Application: White to off-white W/O emulsion, approx. 4% cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid spheres
1.5 volumes water added to 1 volume of the emulsion
▪ Selected time points: After 30 min
▪ Analysis: Absorbing properties of HyaCare® Filler CL MB
▪ Particle size of HyaCare® Filler CL MB before (t = 0 min) and after the addition of
water (t = 30 min)
▪ Observed activity: Water is completely absorbed
Increased viscosity
Increased in the particle size

Back #6
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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vitro enzymatic degradation – Test design

Application: Acid was isolated from HyaCare® Filler CL MB by ethanolic precipitation, repeatedly
washed with ethanol and finally freeze-dried
5 mg/ml isolated cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid were incubated in a phosphate buffer
with 0.41 mg/ml of a mammalian hyaluronidase from bovine testes
(TypeI-S, 400 – 1 000 U/mg, Sigma-Aldrich)
Linear Hyaluronic Acid at the same concentration was used as control
Analysis: Stability of HyaCare® Filler CL MB against enzymatic degradation by mammalian
hyaluronidase (a HA degrading enzyme)

Observed activity: Benefit of superior stability against enzymatic degradation

Back #7
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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vitro MTT-assay – Test design

Application: SkinEthic skin models were topically treated either with a formulation containing
0.1% HyaCare® Filler CL MB or a vehicle formulation for 1 h at 37 °C, 5% CO2
Incubation under a sterile bench without plate cover
Selected time points: After 8h
Analysis: Evaluation of protection effect of HyaCare® Filler CL MB from drying out
Analysis of cell viability by MTT-assay
Evaluation of the skin condition by historical images after Hematoxylin and Eosin staining
Observed activity: Significant decrease of cell viability by 40%
The epidermis looks very tight and better structured

Back #8
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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vitro MTT-assay – Test design

Purpose of the study:


Exploration of the physical effect (water-binding capacity) of cross-linked Hyaluronic
Acid on dried epidermal skin models.
Model:
SkinEthic reconstructed human epidermis topical application of testsubstances
and incubation in CO2-incubator for 1h

1. vehicle formulation 1
“normal” cultivation at room temperature with plate-cover under laminar flow
drying of skin models under laminar
1. vehicle formulation 2 flow without plate-cover
cultivation at room temperature without plate-cover under laminar flow (drying of
the skin models)
4h 6h 8h
2. formulation + HyaCare® Filler CL MB
cultivation at room temperature without plate-cover under laminar flow (drying of
a. analysis of viability (MTT);
the skin models) b. histology of skin models

Back #8
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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vitro MTT-assay – Test design & result

Method:
• Cell viability during drying
of skin models
(SkinEthic) under laminar
flow (rel. to vehicle
formulation cultivated at
RT with plate cover)

HyaCare® Filler CL MB protects skin models from drying out.

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vitro MTT-assay – Histology image result

HyaCare® Filler CL MB leads to a better structured epidermis.

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
Ex vivo evaluation on skin - Test design

▪ Application: HyaCare® Filler CL MB was applied on fluorescently labelled material on pig skin

▪ Analysis: Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid spheres was inspected by fluorescent microscopy

▪ Observed activity: HyaCare® Filler CL MB particles accumulate in skin structures

▪ This ex vivo result could be confirmed by in vivo measurement using PRIMOS Pico, a contactless method of measuring
wrinkles.

Back #8
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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vivo evaluation – Test formulation

MM151/2 MM151/6

TEGO® Care 450 3.0% 3.0%


(Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate)

TEGIN® M Pellets 2.0% 2.0%


(Glyceryl Stearate)

TEGO® Alkanol 18 1.0% 1.0%


(Stearyl Alcohol)

TEGOSOFT® OS 9.5% 9.5%


(Ethylhexyl Stearate)

TEGOSOFT® CT 9.5% 9.5%


(Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)

Methylisothiazolinone, Methyl and Ethyl Parabens 0.8% 0.8%


(Microcare MEM)

HyaCare® 0.1%
HyaCare® Filler CL MB 2.5%

Water 74.1% 71.7%

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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vivo „long“ lasting wrinkle filling – Test formulation

UR723 3 4 5
TEGO® Care LTP
(Sorbitan Laurate; Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate; Dilauryl Citrate) 2.00% 2.00% 2.00%
TEGOSOFT® CT
(Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 5.00% 5.00% 5.00%
TEGOSOFT® TN
(C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) 5.00% 5.00% 5.00%
TEGO® Carbomer 140
(Carbomer) 0.15% 0.15% 0.15%
TEGO® Carbomer 141
(Carbomer) 0.15% 0.15% 0.15%

Xanthan Gum (Keltrol F) 0.10% 0.10% 0.10%


HyaCare® Filler CL MB 1.00% 2.00% 5.00%

Water 86.60% 85.60% 82.60%

Back #11
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HyaCare® Filler CL MB
In vivo evaluation of instant effect on wrinkles – Test Formulation

UR668/1

TEGO® Care 450 3.0%


(Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate)
TEGO® Alkanol 18 1.0%
(Stearyl Alcohol)
TEGIN® M Pellets 1.0%
(Glyceryl Stearate)
TEGOSOFT® P 10.0%
(Isopropyl Palmitate)
Water 80.0%

HyaCare® Filler CL MB 5.0%


Preservative q.s

Back #8 Back #13


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