Professional Documents
Culture Documents
25,000
20,000
15,000
10,000
5,000
0
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
Launches Launches With polymers inside
Advantages Limitations
Used in aqueous or lipohilic phase Swells in water under definite pH conditions
Used mainly in O/W emulsion Often sensitive to electrolyte contents
2 or 3 polymers are often used together in emulsions Thickening power is generally inverse to
Stabilize and/or emulsify lipophilic ingredients electrolyte tolerance
Active ingredients Often contains electrolytes and influence polymer features or emulsion stability
25
20
15
10
0 pH
4.5 4.8 5.1 5.4 5.7 6 6.3 6.6 6.9 7.2 7.5 7.8
Median: pH 5.8
Source: Analysis of cosmetic products launched in 2013, international and local brands from France, Italy, Poland, Russia, Spain and Turkey, mass-market and selective premium market
FOCUS PRODUCTS
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Emulsifying
60000
Capability
Sensory
profile 30000
0 pH
0 2 4 6 8 10
Electrolyte 90000
Tolerance
Emulsifying
60000
Capability
Sensory
profile 30000
NaCl
0
(%)
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
15
Sensory
profile 10
Area of Gentleness
(Neutral)
Hint: plush=soft/powdery/waxy chalky=dry/smooth/soft
FOCUS PRODUCTS
Viscosity vs
pH range
Cosmedia® Luvigel® Luvigel®
Electrolyte SP EM STAR AT 3
Tolerance
Emulsifying
Capability Tinovis® Tinovis® Rheocare®
ADE GTC (UP)* HSP 1180
Sensory
profile
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Good thickening
90,000 90,000
60,000 60,000
30,000 30,000
Cosmedia® SP
0 pH 0 % NaCl
0 2 4 6 8 10 0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Cosmedia® SP (1%)
Synergies
Velvety
Silky
14
Plush 12 Velvety
10
8
6 Soft
4
Cosmedia® SP
Waxy 2 Soft
0
Powdery Smooth
Chalky Dry
1.2% Cosmedia® SP
Good thickening
Medium electrolyte tolerance
Properties
Anionic pre-neutralized homopolymer
0 pH 0 % NaCl
3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4
40,000 40,000
20,000 20,000
Luvigel® EM
0 pH 0 % NaCl
3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Silky Velvety
14
12
Plush Velvety
10
8
6 Soft
4
Waxy 2 Soft
0
Luvigel® EM
Smooth
Powdery Smooth
Chalky Dry
Silky
14
12
Plush Velvety
10
8
Waxy 6
Soft
4
Waxy 2 Soft
0
Luvigel® STAR AT 3
Powdery Smooth
Properties
Anionic pre-neutralized homopolymer
Performing thickener
0 pH 0 % NaCl
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Smooth
Powdery Smooth
Properties
Anionic pre-neutralized polymer Forms transparent gels (at pH 6 and above)
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
0 pH 0 % NaCl
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Tinovis® GTC* (1 %)
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Silky
Silky
14
12
Plush Velvety
10
8
6 Soft
4
Waxy Soft
Tinovis® GTC*
2
0
Powdery Smooth
Chalky Dry
1.0% a.m. Tinovis® GTC
Properties
Anionic polymer
Plush
Silky
14
12
Plush Velvety
10
8
6 Soft
4
Waxy Soft
Rheocare® HSP 1180
2
0
Powdery Smooth
Chalky Dry
Thickening
capability
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 pH
++ Tinovis® ADE
Cosmedia® SP
Luvigel® EM
+
Tinovis® GTC (1)
(1) Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
180000
160000
140000
120000
100000
80000
60000
40000
20000
0 pH
0 2 4 6 8 10
Remark: Rheocare® HSP 1180 and Luvigel® Star: not applicable in water
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
180000
160000
140000
120000
100000
80000
60000
40000
20000
0 % NaCl
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Cosmedia® SP (1%) pH=6.1 Luvigel® EM (0,5%) without activator pH=6.8 Tinovis® GTC* (1%) pH=6.6
Luvigel® EM (1%) with activator pH=6.8 Tinovis® ADE (1%) pH=7.0 Rheocare® C Plus (Carbomer) (1%) pH=5.8
Remark: Rheocare® HSP 1180 and Luvigel® Star: not applicable in water
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
30
25
20
15
10
Luvigel® Associative thickener with a Rheocare® Sensory modifier with lubricious effect
STAR AT 3 waxy afterfeel. HSP 1180 during application and plush afterfeel.
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Cosmedia® SP and 25% emollient phase (Formulation sample not included in the polymer box)
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Powdery
Smooth
Chalky Dry
Silky
30
25
Powdery Smooth Smooth
Plush Velvety
20
15
10 Chalky Dry
Waxy 5 Soft
0
Powdery Smooth
Emulsion based on Tinovis® ADE shows a light and silky afterfeel with
Chalky Dry residual waxyness
Silky
30 Powdery
25 Powdery Smooth
Plush Velvety
20
15
10 Chalky Dry
Waxy 5 Soft
0
Powdery Smooth
Emulsion based on Tinovis® GTC* has a distinct effect in
Chalky Dry the area of Care with residual elegant feel
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Powdery Smooth
Emulsion stabilized with Cosmedia® SP imparts Care feeling to skin with
Chalky Dry considerable velvety and soft afterfeel
Powdery Smooth
Emulsion stabilized with a combination of Cosmedia® SP and Tinovis®
Chalky Dry GTC* delivers a combination of Care and Elegant Feeling
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Powdery Smooth Emulsion based on Cosmedia® SP and Rheocare® HSP 1180 is lubricious
Emulsion stabilizedand
during application with combination
the afterfeel is of but at®the
Cosmedia
Caring SPsame
and Tinovis® GTC
time Elegant
Chalky Dry delivers
and a combination of Care and Elegant Feeling
Gentle.
Chalky Dry
Highest score in Care area: Waxy feeling due to combination with Luvigel®
EM, Tinovis® GTC* and Dehymuls® PGPH as W/O emulsifier. Chosen
Complete formulation emollients with low cost in use.
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Manufacturing Process
Prepare phase A at room temperature. When phase A is homogeneous disperse Tinovis® GTC in phase A and adjust the pH value. Then add phase C to A+B and directly after add phase
D. Increase stirring rate to enable proper mixing until homogeneous.
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Chalky Dry
Specifications
pH value (20°C) 6.0 - 6.2
Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TE, helipath; 10 rpm; 20°C) 200 000 - 210 000 mPas
Manufacturing Process
Prepare phase A at room temperature. When phase A is homogeneous disperse phase B in phase A. Then add phase C to A+B. Please note that on addition of phase
C a significant increase in viscosity is to be expected! Increase stirring rate to enable proper mixing until homogeneous.
Powdery Smooth
Powdery Smooth
Chalky Dry
Gentleness Area
(Neutral)
Specifications
pH value (20°C) 5.9 - 6.1
Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle 6; 10 rpm; 20°C) 40 000 - 60 000 mPas
Manufacturing Process
At room temperature, disperse phase B in phase A under stirring during 20 min. When the phase is homogeneous, add phase C. Then add phase D and for finish add phase E.
Remark: samples were preserved with Euxyl K 100 * BRK RVF, TC-Spindle, 4 rpm, Helipath
62 BASF Personal Care ** Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Smooth Care
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Tinovis® ADE Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1.00 Rheology modifier
PPG-1 Trideceth-6
Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100
B Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant
C Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 10.00 Emollient
Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 10.00 Emollient
Cegesoft® PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 10.00 Emollient
D Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Preservative q.s. Preservative
E Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment
Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone)
Specifications
pH value (23°C) 5.6
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TE, helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C) 187500 mPas
Manufacturing Process
Mix components listed under A while stirring. When the solution is homogeneous add phase B. Mix the oil phase C separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add
phase D one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to ~5.5
SC-DE-13-166-11
Manufacturing Process
Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Mix the oil phase D
separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase E one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to ~6.0
SC-DE-13-230-135c
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Manufacturing Process
Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Add phase D. Mix the oil
phase E separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase F one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to 6.3 - 6.7
SC-DE-13-230-170
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Manufacturing Process
Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Add phase D. Mix the oil
phase E separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase F one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to 6.0 - 6.5
SC-DE-13-230-172
SC-DE-12-139-1
C Plantapon® LGC SORB Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate (and) Lauryl 1.50 Surfactant
Glucoside
D Litchiderm™ LS 9704 Butylene Glycol, Litchi Chinensis Extract 3.00 Active ingredient
SC-DE-13-173-3
SC-FR-12-001-F011
SC-FR-13-005-A008
SC-FR-13-013-A018c
UV-DE-13-022-8-1
120000 200000
100000
160000
80000
120000
60000
80000
40000
40000
20000
0 pH 0
3.00 5.00 7.00 9.00 11.00 13.00 1% Cosmedia® SP + 1% Cosmedia® SP + 1% C. SP + 0.1%
20% oil 20% oil Rheocare® C Plus + 20%
Cosmedia® SP + 0,3% Rheocare® C Plus Cosmedia® SP + 0,1% Rheocare® C Plus
oil
Cosmedia® SP + 0,2% Rheocare® C Plus Cosmedia® SP 0,5% pH 6 pH 5,3
100000
160000
80000
60000 120000
40000 80000
20000
40000
0
0.00 0.25 0.50 0.75 1.00
0
Without NaCl With 0.15% NaCl With 0.30% NaCl 1% Cosmedia® SP + 1% Cosmedia® SP + 1% C.® SP + 1%
20% Oil 20% Oil Rheocare® XG + 20% Oil
200000
180000
160000
140000
120000
100000
80000
60000
40000
20000
0 pH
0 2 4 6 8 10
Cosmedia® SP (1%) Luvigel® EM (1%) with Activator
Tinovis® ADE (1%) Tinovis® GTC (1%)
Carbomer (1%) Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer (1%) Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (0.4%)
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
200000
180000
160000
140000
120000
100000
80000
60000
40000
20000
0 % NaCl
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Cosmedia® SP 1% pH=6,09 Luvigel® EM 1% with activator pH=6,8
Luvigel® EM 0,5% Without activator pH=6,8 Tinovis® ADE 1% am pH=7,01
Tinovis® GTC 1%am pH=6,6 Carbomer (1%) pH=5.76
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0,4% pH=5,89
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
35
30
25
20
15
10
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
Contains EO/PO
dosage as is %
Sensory Profile
Recommended
pH application
Salt Tolerance
Compatibility
Emulsifying /
Stabilizing
Clear Gels
Sun Care
Physical
Ethanol
AP/Deo
form (1)
Active
range
Type
Trade Name INCI Name Remarks
Non- Associative
Luvigel® STAR AT 3 Polyurethane-39 ~20 L
Ionic
0.5 – 5 Yes 2 – 12 o thickener
Polyacrylamidomethylpropane
Rheocare® HSP1180 Sulfonic Acid
~15 L Anionic 1–5 No 2 – 12 o o o Improves lubricity
High
Rheocare® C Plus Carbomer >97 P Anionic 0.1 – 1 No 4 – 12 o transparency
Suitable for
Rheocare® TTA Acrylates Coplymer ~30 L Anionic 0.5 – 4 No 6,5 – 12
serums
High
Rheocare® XG (2) Xanthan Gum >97 P Anionic 0.1 – 1 No 3 – 10 o
transparency
Cosmedia® Ultragel 300 Polyquaternium-37 > 92 P Cationic 0.5 – 1.5 No 3 – 11
Version: Jan 2015 Performance: o None Good Very Good Excellent (1) Physical form: P = Powder L = Liquid
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available. (2) Available in Europe only
78 BASF Personal Care